Driveway to garage. What to make the road to the garage. Concrete entrance: step-by-step detailed instructions for pouring

I built a garage in the country, the floor of the garage turned out to be 50 cm above ground level.

What is simpler, cheaper, more reliable, more durable, etc. make a smooth slide for entry? Ideally it would be nice concrete slab put at an angle. But, the plates on the road are not lying around, and the new one is not very cheap, besides, you will need a crane and a truck, this will also cost a pretty penny. What other options are there?

Anton in general, the thought - in any case, gravel is needed as a basis - its mound is good in winter and in the summer, just when driving in and out, one must not rush - very slowly and carefully - good luck - it’s still good asphalt crumb, it absorbs moisture very well and powerful will never fail - like a stone

Nikolay Pour the gravel, and then fill it with concrete.

Eugene and add reinforcement

Novel Reinforce with old pieces of iron that are at hand, and concrete, ... the garage will rot, the ramp will remain))))

Vasily these are miscalculations in construction

Konstantin

Valentin - I'll answer - and the men will peck at me ... I would make an embankment of gravel Andrey, but at the same time I would make several vertical holes with a depth of 70-80 cm Maxim right along the threshold, if possible, reinforcement there, and I would also fill it with concrete from above ... Well, beat me...

Fedor Put a curb stone, 2 pieces are enough. , under the wheels!

Nikita

Alexey Put the elevator

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Tell me, knowledgeable and experienced, from what to make a path in the country, and when? You mean, in the spring, while the earth is without grass? | Topic Author: Egor

I built a garage in the country, the floor of the garage turned out to be 50 cm above ground level. What is simpler, cheaper, more reliable, more durable, etc. make a smooth slide for entry? Ideally, of course, it would be nice to put a concrete slab at an angle. But, the plates on the road are not lying around, and the new one is not very cheap, besides, you will need a crane and a truck, this will also cost a pretty penny. What other options are there?

Igor in the country, a path from a sawn tree trunk will look good, the larger the diameter of the trunk, the wider the path, respectively

Nikolay It is best, of course, to lay out paving slabs. And if, so that at no cost, then just fragments of bricks, there will be something like a paving stone.

Igor If it’s temporary, then put roofing felt. Better yet, do it once and properly - put the tile under it, you need to make a groove and fill it with sand and tile on top so that later the grass does not grow on the bottom of the groove with a black film, well, or the same roofing felt

Victor) I am for paving slabs with curbs, like a border, or natural stone, but he, bastard, is expensive, but very beautiful ...

Anton now a plastic walkway is on sale, look in stores. I saw it on the carousel.

Sergey If you know exactly where it should be and are not going to change the site plan in the future, I advise from concrete 50-60 cm wide, 10-15 cm thick. Any man can do it, even alone.
Not so expensive, but for a long time and always, in any weather, you can normally walk along it - no dirt, no rotten falling boards, no moving paving slabs that need to be corrected every spring ....

Dmitry

Ruslan removing upper layer 15-20 cm of soil, you make a sand cushion 15 cm and then 5 cm of crushed stone of a fine fraction of 10-20 mm or granite chips of 5-10 mm., any color of crushed stone, curbs along the path are made of various materials. it’s good if you lay dornite or any bedding material under the sand. so that the weeds do not clog the path so quickly. Sections from logs at the very beginning look beautiful. and over time become covered with moss and become slippery in wet weather. especially if the path is sloping

Anatoly You can do it at ANY time, except sub-zero temperature.. .
what the path will be, determines mainly the thickness of the wallet and the whim of the owner of the site ...
basic requirement: no dampness and dirt sticking to the soles, the design is a matter of taste... .
without drainage, ANY path will not last long.. .
I have small gravel, screenings, sawn asphalt Andrey
no puddles during any rain!

Yaroslav

Valentine

Oleg Watching which path. Quickly - just put the tiles or blocks in a step. In some familiar village - all the paths are made of sawn sleepers Pavel. What year I want to park a car - here you really need to dig a bed of 20-30 cm, and then - a layer of film, a layer of sand, a layer of rubble, again sand and tiles. See that Ilya will walk along this path - a lady in heels, a lady in sneakers, a lady with a wheelbarrow, a lady in a car. Path - to the house, to the toilet, to the barn, to summer kitchen, to the garage, to the green office, to the playground ... Wooden paths are beautiful, but short-lived and slippery. Paths with digging the base are laborious, but strong and durable. Temporary paths are just tiles on the grass. Or special plastic or pressed tiles. What do you want.

Peter) buy a special uniform for 1200 in the shop on the couch. there only cement mortar needed, and the track is ready) in the tricolor advertising is twisted, I bought it for my mother, but I don’t know why, it might come in handy. delivered in 14 days.

where to spend the night on m4 | photo review

Nov 8, 2013 - Therefore, many people are concerned about the questions: Where to spend the night on the way to the south? ... There are many roadside hotels along the Don highway, you should not have problems with where to spend the night on the m4. ..... Weather in Sochi

Ideally, an approximate plan of the paths is conceived at the stage of the initial planning of the site, when they decide where the house will be, where the garden, and where the decorative zone will be.

Usually, a driveway is created (or at least the soil under it is leveled and compacted) at the same time, because construction requires a convenient way for the transport of building materials or liquid concrete.

When designing a driveway, you need to imagine exactly where the gate will be on the site, where the house is, and where the owner's car will usually stand. Will she always stand in the garage, or will she sometimes be left under a canopy between the garage and the house, maybe it is planned to park several cars at the same time? Will the garage be built into the house and have a common foundation with it, or will it be arranged as a separate building?

The layout of the driveway must be approached rationally. The huge paved square in front of the castle and the winding gravel road leading to it from the gate, lined with clipped bushes, of course, looks epic. But on a plot of 10-15 acres, it is better to get by with a covered area near the gate and a garage built into the house.

That is, the track becomes a platform - one and a half to two car lengths, two car widths plus another meter, and the same gate width. You can also provide a place for a convenient passage to the house. This will allow, if necessary, to park at least three cars on the site - drive one rhinestone into the garage, put two on the site.

A short driveway saves "empty" space. If necessary, the same area can be used as a terrace. Usually a platform or a path is raised above the ground, so it is important to provide steps for accessing the site (if you plan to transport something from the gate on a wheelbarrow, you will also need a ramp).

The blind area around the house is designed to protect the foundation from moisture.

If the house is supposed to be in depth large area and / or the garage will be arranged far from home, you can arrange a long narrow road around the site (you can even decorative) with a width and a bend sufficient so that a car can pass along it forward and backward. The entrance directly to the house can not be provided, this is at the request of the owner. It all depends on whether you plan to return home in the rain, and how afraid you are of getting wet if you have to walk in the rain from the car (garage) to the house - say, 10 meters.

A long path will also allow you to park several cars one after the other. True, it will be inconvenient for them to leave. Well, if you can arrange a turning circle in the garage. The device on the site of the "roundabout" or the U-turn area in front of the garage is irrational, as it takes up space.

However, a long and especially "loopback" driveway has its undoubted advantages - it is decorative, can be designed as a walking area or a solarium, framed by beautiful low (and not thorny) plants, and children enjoy cycling along such roads, rollerblades and skateboards.

The device of the driveway (platform)

blind area device

There are no fundamental differences in the device of the blind area and the driveway, except that the pillow layer should be smaller, since it will have less load. The purpose of the blind area is to facilitate movement around the house and divert water from the foundation, as well as prevent water from entering between the wall and the ground.

Ideally, the blind area and paths are made in the same style and on the same level, but you can also arrange multi-level ones, make terraces, ladders, ramps, emphasize them with small waterfalls or climbing, ampelous plants.

For any car owner, it is important to have not only a garage, but also to properly equip the entrance to it. The safe arrival of the car depends on how accurately and conveniently it will be performed. A carelessly made entrance can lead to the fact that it will be inconvenient to enter the garage, and precipitation in the form of rain and snow will also fall into it. About how to properly least cost and forces to make an entrance to the garage, we will tell below.

no access to garage

Weather troubles in the form of mud, ice, puddles can create problems in front of any garage. Icy ledges, on which the wheels of the car slip, increase not only the load of the mass on the suspension of the car, but also become the cause of emergency situations.

Dark time can also cause malfunctions due to the constant risk of hitting an obstacle with the bumper. In addition, the accumulated water at the entrance to the garage is actively trying to get inside the room. All these points emphasize the importance proper organization garage entrance.

wooden ramp

Varieties of entrances to the garage

Equipping the garage, be sure to equip the entrance path for it. This will help not only make the race convenient, but also smooth out the difference in the plane in front of the gate. Equipping additional equipment with a ramp, you can protect the inside of the garage from the ingress of external precipitation.

An excellent solution for underground garages would also be an equipped entrance. It will serve as a guide and become a replenishment for strengthening the soil. Properly equipped check-in is able to minimize the burden on the chassis, which guarantees safe parking and hassle-free entry.

You can enter the garage:

at the entrance equipped with a ramp;
on the blind area;
along the screed.

deck in front of garage

How to make an entrance to the garage with ascent and descent

The main purpose of the structure is to organize a convenient entrance to the garage. The steeper the ramp, the more convenient it is to use. Ramps in the garage are of two types:

building with a lift;
ramp with descent (most often used in underground garages).

A distinctive feature between them is: the ramps with a rise have curbs to prevent exits, and the walls act as a limiter for structures with a descent.

The dimensions of the ramp are usually about 30 cm more than the width of the garage door. At the end of the ramp tunnel, the structure expands slightly to facilitate vehicle entry. The average length is 3-5 meters, depending on the choice of the garage owner.

The ramp device provides for a slope of the surface and a drainage system. To prevent water from accumulating, a special small ditch with a built-in grate is installed in front of the threshold. Such drainage perfectly removes precipitation and prevents rainwater from accumulating. At the request of the owner of the garage, you can install a canopy to protect Garage Doors from strong wind or snowfall.

Various options can serve as a material for the manufacture of ramps:

concrete;
tree of strong breeds;
metal.

Each material has its pros and cons.

The wooden ramp is easy to assemble. It is easy to make but not durable. You will have to change it or assemble it again every two to three years.

A metal structure is the most reliable and durable option. But at low temperatures corrosion appears.

Concrete ramp - the most suitable option in terms of quality-price ratio. Properly installed, for all technological standards building will last a long time.

downhill entry

blind area

A distinctive feature of the structure is a surface made of concreted or asphalt material with a slope from the sewage disposal garage.

The most likely option for equipping a garage pavement would be to build an inclined floor surface with a slope of 20 degrees, the width can be up to 1 meter or more, depending on how much space the garage occupies.

You can often see how the entire area in front of the house or garage is laid out as a blind area. Laying options can be different: tile, concrete, asphalt. Laid out blind area in front of the garage for all technical rules will not only look good, but will also help to drive inside the room without difficulty.

erection of a blind area

Screed

An option for making an entrance from a screed is a mixture consisting of cement and sand, or a concrete layer mixed with asphalt chips. Screed is ideal option for entering the garage in the event that it is necessary to level and harden the surface. The screed is used when the ground is not hard enough.

screed before entry

How to make the entrance to your garage

Before proceeding to construction work, carry out a preliminary calculation. According to averages, the correct exit should be 30 cm wider than the garage door. The size may vary, depending on the wishes of the owner and the characteristics of the surrounding area.

The slope of the ride is calculated according to the standards described in SNiP. The average is about 15-20 degrees for the entire distance of the path.

clear the area in front of the garage from debris;
if there are communications, isolate them in special boxes or calculate the design taking into account their inclusion or bypass.

tilt angle

How to make a ramp in an underground garage

The structure of the garage ramp is a small platform that is adjacent to the entrance to the garage. It is placed at a slight angle. You can make a ramp with your own hands, both in a temporary and in a permanent version.

In the first case, the entrance is made of boards - any lumber will do. The advantage of this production is:

rapidity;
small price;
commissioning speed.

fragility;
small loads;
moisture destruction.

The best option for making a ramp is concrete. How to make or fill in the entrance to the garage, we will tell further.

ramp parameters

Concrete ramp

To build a driveway to the garage, you will need:

cement mixture (M400);
boards for wooden formwork;
sand and gravel;
fittings.

Before starting work, prepare the site:

Clean up debris. Set boundaries. Compact the soil with a vibrator. Fill the resulting area with water, this will help in shrinking the soil.
The next stage is the formation of formwork. Install a structure of boards or any lumber into which concrete will be poured.
Weld the frame from the reinforcement in the form of a grid and place it on the bottom of the formwork. It will give strength to concrete and help it last a long time.
Mix all the ingredients in proportion: cement 1 part + crushed stone 5 parts + sand 3 parts. Pour the formwork with the resulting solution immediately after manufacturing.
The ramp is poured in several layers. You can conditionally measure 10-15 cm and stretch a thread or fishing line along the formwork. The poured layer is leveled with a spatula and carefully compacted to avoid voids and internal bubbles.
The formed layers are given time to dry, not forgetting to monitor their condition.
Before the finished ramp for entering the garage, they must form drainage ditch. To do this, a trench is dug with a slope to a depth of 40-50 cm. The resulting drainage will drain water into a specially installed reservoir or simply to a remote area.
The ditch is concreted, and gratings are installed on top to prevent dirt, leaves and other debris from entering.

concrete ramp

How to make a blind area

This design also has great importance not only for checking into the garage, but also for household needs. The blind area helps to divert wastewater from the foundation. The material for the manufacture can serve as concrete or paving or border tiles. A do-it-yourself equipped entrance to the garage with these materials not only looks beautiful and neat, but also provides safe maneuvers when entering a car.

Basic rules for arranging equipment:

width - up to 0.5-0.7 meters;
the height is set depending on the characteristics of the material to be used (gravel or gravel up to 50 cm. concrete or tile up to 40-60 cm);
entrance slope - up to 10-15 mm for every half meter (if the blind area is built in an underground garage).

Arrangement of the platform under the blind area:

Prepare the area in front of the garage. Remove debris and tamp the surface until smooth.
The next step is laying rubble or gravel on the ground. Instead of formwork, we install a curb and begin laying tiles or paving stones.
Laying out the material, we correct the installation with the help of a mallet (with light taps).
We cover the gaps between the laid tiles or paving stones with sand.

deck next to garage

Correct screed

Installation of the screed is similar to the above methods. The first step is to calculate the future area of the screed, as well as necessary materials. After clearing the site and installing the formwork with reinforcement, a sand cushion of sand, cement and crushed stone or gravel (10-15 cm high) is laid out on the bottom, and then poured with concrete. If the entry is for trucks, it is best to use concrete M 500, 600 and higher as the base of the pillow.

The final stage is the aesthetic design. Decorate your site with various polymer coatings, will give a neat look, as well as help maintain a long service life of the concrete base.

deck in front of garage

Materials for the construction of the entrance

Thinking about making the entrance to the garage, calculate in advance the area of \u200b\u200byour site. Also prepare the material that you will need:

cement (the higher its brand, the stronger the base will be);
sand;
concrete (dry or diluted, of a certain brand);
water;
clay;
tile;
curbstone;
paving stones;
rubble, gravel.

Finally

Having equipped a platform for entering the garage in accordance with all technical rules, you, as a car owner, will be able to confidently and safely perform any maneuvers. In addition, any external precipitation will not get inside, which means that the garage foundation will last a long time.

Having spent energy, time and money on installation, you will more than recoup the convenience and comfort of driving a car into a garage.

On the suburban area there will always be areas that experience increased stress during operation. First of all, this is a platform near the garage and an access road to it. Their arrangement must be taken with all responsibility, because the result of the work will be safe movement around the site and convenient car parking. How to make a reliable and durable driveway and equip the entrance to the garage? About everything in order.

General rules

Paving conventional garden paths and paving the road for the passage of the car, of course, have some differences. Pay attention to the basic rules for paving territories with increased load before designing your site:

Choose areas with solid ground for the track and the area in front of the garage.
The track must be well drained to avoid subsidence during operation.
Choose a short access road, avoiding significant differences in height.
Make sure that the steepness of the road does not exceed 12% (12 meters of elevation per 100 meters of track).
If a strong slope cannot be avoided, level out the steepness of the path using bends and turns.
On the site in front of the garage, the turning radius must be at least 4.5 meters.
The parking lot must be almost horizontal, with a slope of no more than 4%.
For drain surface water observe a minimum slope of the access road of about 2%.

Soil preparation and road construction

most responsible and milestone when paving areas with increased load - this is the preparation of the foundation for the future road. Even the most best coverage can be damaged if the soil for its laying is improperly and poorly prepared. But do not worry about the final result, read our tips, carefully study your site and get to work. How to prepare the base for the road:

1. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site for the construction of the road. Various types soils have, respectively different characteristics: organic soil or peat cannot withstand heavy loads, and therefore are practically unsuitable for road construction. Sedimentary rocks and clay turn into mud when wet, but mixing them with sand or gravel and providing good drainage can make a good path. There is a proven test to determine the type of soil. You need to remove the top soil layer along the planned route and drive along this “primer” for some time. Take a closer look at how it behaves in the rain, whether water appears in a rut, how wet soil withstands the car. If a small rut forms in the “primer”, this is quite acceptable. But in the event that water is easily squeezed out of the soil, the soil must be removed and a special pillow should be poured.

2. You came across organic soil or peat. In this case, it is best to choose the soil completely up to a layer with good bearing characteristics. If such a layer is not found at a "reasonable" depth, then select the soil to a depth of 60 cm below the level of the projected road. In the resulting “trough”, fill the cobblestone with a layer of 20-30 cm, then lay a layer of sand with fine gravel about 6 cm. The aggregate with a fine fraction will spill into the voids of the lower layer and will not allow the site to shrink. The resulting backfill must be well compacted and you can start laying concrete, asphalt or pavers of your choice.

3. If your base is clay or sedimentary rocks, it is saturated with water and does not have humus, then proceed as follows. After removing the top layer of soil and trimming the soil, the bottom of the “trough” must be loosened with bulldozer teeth or excavator bucket teeth. Pour clean crushed stone into the resulting grooves with a layer of at least 6 cm, make the backfill wider than the canvas of the future path by 30-60 cm in both directions. Good drainage is essential, as frozen water expands and can crack the pavement. We offer several options for drainage: - The compacted soil base of the road is covered with gravel with a particle size of up to 4 cm with a layer of at least 10 cm thick, all layers (both filling and coating) are laid with a slope for drainage - The subsoil layer of questionable density is mixed with crushed stone and compacted , a special moisture-proof synthetic canvas is laid between the soil and the gravel-sand mixture, all layers have a drainage slope.

Before laying the pavement, the roadbed must be leveled with a grader and compacted with a heavy hand or road roller.

The choice of material for paving the road and site

In my opinion, to the best views coverings for the access road and the platform near the garage can be attributed to monolithic concrete or vibrocast concrete tiles. Roads from monolithic concrete very durable and strong. Another plus of concrete - the road from it will significantly save family budget. Such roads look ordinary, strict, but they are very practical in operation. If you want something more elegant and beautiful, choose vibrocast concrete paving slabs. Such a tile is well tolerated by heavy loads, durable, environmentally friendly, frost-resistant and undemanding in care. Also, the access road can be paved with bricks or clinker. Before styling top coat piece material you will need to add another layer to the base of the road. Usually this is a compacted layer of plaster-rubble flour with a thickness of 2.5 cm. Further laying the top coating according to the recommendations for each specific material.

Built-in lighting

Even at the design stage of the road, do not forget about recessed lighting. For this purpose, LEDs are ideal, which can be built directly into the track, without fear of the load from cars passing through them. Choose low-brightness light sources to avoid glare. Fixtures are preferred small size. By the way, LEDs can illuminate any translucent decorative elements, built into the path when paving, so you can experiment and insert some transparent tiles. But we repeat once again - you need to think about lighting in advance, before the start of direct paving of the road and site.

Garage area heating

A familiar picture for many: a winter morning, snowdrifts at the entrance to the garage, a shovel in hand ... Of course, there are advantages to morning warm-up, but to save time and feel comfortable, you can equip the area near the garage with a cable heating system. Such systems have recently become widespread and are used to heat stairs, roads, open areas and steps. The system consists of a cable and a control device and is similar to the "warm floor" system installed in houses. cable system heating can be installed in different kinds coverings: asphalt, granite, paving slabs, marble. The heating cable is laid directly into the concrete screed, so the presence of a heating system on your site must be planned before laying the main coating. When entering the garage, it is more advisable to use an armored cable that has a high heat dissipation and operating temperature.

The heating system operates in manual and automatic modes, thermostats record the outdoor temperature and the presence of precipitation and automatically turn on the heating on the site. Melt water runs off into special water collectors, and the site remains dry and clean.

The cable heating system consumes at least 300 W / m2, therefore, in order to save resources, it is necessary to correctly place heating cable. There is not always a need to heat the entire site, you can limit yourself to places under the wheel tracks. Give preference to systems with "smart" precipitation sensors, the use of which will significantly save energy consumption.

Good luck in job!

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People setting up Vacation home or a cottage, are faced with the task of tiling paths and areas designed not only for pedestrian traffic, but also for the passage of cars.

Such passages and platforms should have the following characteristics:

Evenness.
Strength.
Durability.
Functionality.
Aesthetics.

Therefore, it is not easy to choose the right technology for arranging such surfaces. One of the options may be laying tiles under the car on a base, made taking into account the upcoming operational loads. When choosing the type of paving slabs, it will be right to give preference to paving stones. The whole complex of works on this technology is divided into stages:

A. Substrate preparation:

Planning and layout.
Excavation.
Filling and tamping of crushed stone pillow.
Installation of curbs.
Reinforcement and preparatory screed.

B. Laying paving stones and sealing joints.

Building a solid foundation is the key to success

The execution of work begins with a survey of the territory on which the work will be carried out, and the release of the future construction site from all that is superfluous. Then you need to start marking the tracks and platforms, and then decide which of them the vehicles will move along.

Sites of the territory where the construction of driveways and platforms is planned, must be pre-planned. If the area of arrangement is significant, then it is advisable to involve earthworks a tractor that will simultaneously cut the top layer of soil with a thickness of 30-35 cm.

When marking to mark the boundaries of paths and platforms, it is convenient to use wooden pegs driven in at 3 m increments on straight sections and at 1 m increments at turns, into which small nails are driven in from above to stretch the control cord.

Paths designed for the passage of a passenger car must be at least 2.2 m wide so that it is safe to pass a pedestrian. This figure must also be linked to the size of the paving slabs that they plan to lay.

It is desirable that the width of the passage be a multiple of the size of the pavers, which will allow it to be cut less. If it is planned to make a turn on such tracks, then the radius of curvature of the turn for passenger car should be 6-7 m.

After the top layer of soil is removed, leveling and tamping should be done. Compaction of small areas can be done manually with a piece of log suitable sizes with a bar nailed across its cut as handles. If you need to ram large area, then it is advisable to use an electric vibrating plate. Compacted surfaces must be filled with water. This tamping technology provides additional shrinkage of the base.

Then the surface to be prepared must be covered with a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of 15-20 cm, leveled taking into account the future slope and also compacted. Instead of crushed stone, if available, you can use broken brick appropriate size fraction.

Installation of curbs

After tamping, you need to proceed with the installation of curbs (road stone). On driveways and areas where vehicles will move, the curb must be well fixed in order to avoid damage in the event of an accidental collision with a car. Important! The elevation of the curb above the level of paving slabs should be no more than 14 cm so that the road stone cannot damage the bumper passenger car.

Laying curbs is carried out on both sides of the driveways and the perimeter of the sites. For reasons of economy, it is advisable to choose a concrete product with dimensions of 100x30x15 cm (length, height, width), the weight of which is 100 kg and allows its installation by two workers. The need for a curbstone is equal to the size of the perimeter of the sites and twice the length of the driveways in meters.

The border is mounted on concrete base. Concrete is prepared from a mixture of cement, sand and gravel in proportions of 1:3:5. In the place where the curb is laid, crushed stone is raked with a trowel, a layer of concrete 3-5 cm thick is laid, and the stone is installed on the remaining crushed stone cushion. The curb should not rise above the curb by more than 5 cm. Then it should be aligned with the control cord on the pegs, and then the rubble should be leveled around.

The next stone is laid in the same way, but a gap of 5-10 mm should be left between the curbs to fill it later with a cement-sand mortar. At the same time, it is necessary to provide a curb slope of 3-5% in the direction opposite to the existing buildings. At the turns of the paths, you need to use a grinder with a disk designed for cutting stone, cut the curb into 4 parts and use these quarters to form an arc, leaving a gap of the same size between them.

Preparatory concrete screed

After finishing laying the curbs, you need to proceed with the construction of the preparatory concrete screed, the surface of which will indicate the profile of the future coating of paving slabs. Concrete is prepared from a mixture of cement, sand and crushed stone of a fraction of 10-20 mm in a ratio of 1:3:5. The thickness of the screed should be 5 cm together with the penetration into the crushed stone preparation.

Before laying concrete on driveways, you need to decide what profile the coating will be, flat or convex. Tracks with a convex cross section can withstand heavy loads. If a decision is made to equip driveways with a convex profile, then the transverse slope of the coating on both sides of the middle should be 2-3 cm per meter of width, that is, 2-3%. Based on this, the preparatory screed should designate a draft version of the pavement flooring profile, that is, have a transverse bulge.

The screed on the sites should also be done with a slope in the direction opposite to the existing buildings. But the flat profile and large surfaces of parking areas in front of the screed device need to be reinforced. First you need to decide which reinforcement to use.

The correct choice of reinforcement option would be to install a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, made of fiberglass. The dimensions of the reinforcing mesh cell should be 10-12 cm. The fiberglass reinforcement is knitted with plastic clamps, followed by trimming off excess ends or ordinary knitting wire. The grid is placed on compacted gravel, and a leveling screed is arranged on top of it.

A day after the installation of the screed, if the air temperature is above +25 degrees, the screed should be watered 2-3 times a day. After a week, when the screed will gain approximately 70% strength, you can start laying paving stones.

paving stones

The need for paving slabs is calculated by multiplying the area of the equipped surface by 1.1. The thickness of the paving stones for covering driveways for the car should not be less than 6 mm, while it is better to give preference to small or medium-sized paving stones because of their higher strength characteristics. The shape and color of the tiles are chosen individually.

paving slabs, made of concrete with the addition of a dye, will remain colored for the entire time of operation. And the paint applied to the paving stone only from the outside on one of the sides will be erased over time.

However, you should be aware that an excess of dye added to concrete reduces the strength of concrete. Therefore, you should not buy tiles of bright rich colors. In addition, the surface of the tile at the break should be uniform both in texture and color.

Paving stones should be laid on cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1:3. Such a solution will provide reliable adhesion to the preparatory screed and strong fixation of the paving stones. The surface of the leveling screed must be swept and then moistened before laying the pavers. A solution with a layer thickness of 3 cm is applied to the screed, tiles are placed on it and rubber mallet recessed and leveled to the desired position.

A fixed gap of 3-5 mm should be left between individual tiles. The evenness of the laying of paving stones, as well as the exposure to the required slope, must be periodically checked with a straight rail 2 m long or by pulling a cord along the surface.

Deviations from a straight line should not exceed 5 mm. If it is necessary to adjust at the junction with the curbs, paving slabs are cut with a grinder with a disk designed for cutting stone. The convex transverse profile of the driveways must be controlled with a pattern made from a board of the required length.

Seam sealing

After finishing laying paving slabs, you need to give the solution 3 days to harden. Then you need to prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3 and fill the joints of the curbs and paving stones with curb stone. A day later, you need to prepare a dry solution of the same proportion. Having poured one bucket of this solution onto the laid paving stones, you need to sweep it with a broom in the direction of the slope until the entire solution is in the seams.

Sealing tile joints is necessary in order for the product to last a long time.

The procedure for laying a dry mortar into the joints is carried out until all the joints of the pavers are completely filled. Then pour water from a watering can over the equipped surfaces to moisten the dry solution in the seams, and then give it a day to harden. A day after hardening and shrinkage, you need to add a dry mortar to the seams in the same way, but do not allow the seams to be filled flush with the tiles. Seams must be clearly marked. The hardening of this solution in the seams will occur due to the moisture content of the lower layers of the surface.

The passage of the car on the new pavers should be allowed one month after laying, when the cement mortar of the base will gain 100% of its strength. Paving slabs laid using this technology do not sag from erosion of the base by rain or groundwater, withstands the load from the movement of a car on it, is easy to clean and does not require maintenance.

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