Do-it-yourself bar sofas frame. How to make a sofa: instructions for making. Making a soft sofa

The ottoman is good because it looks quite presentable during the day, and at night it turns into a comfortable sleeping bed. In stores, such products are full, you can choose any color and size. But if you want something exclusive, and skillful hands miss work, then why not build it yourself. For yourself or your children. And at the same time, save money.

First of all, you need to decide what design the planned couch will have. Does she need a back (or maybe two), what height will the legs be, is the device supposed to be. Well, there are other details to consider. Depending on the model, the number of materials and their type are calculated.

However, as a rule, either wood boards or furniture panels are used to make the ottoman frame. The first option is cheaper, and the second is better in terms of strength and environmental friendliness. You will also need wooden bars, steel furniture corners, screws for connecting parts.

As for the tool, you should prepare:

sharpened simple pencil for marking;
tape measure, ruler, square;
electric jigsaw;
screwdriver (or screwdriver);
furniture (construction) stapler for fixing upholstery.

Stylish homemade sofa for giving

Do-it-yourself sofa-ottoman

Retractable model

Such a furniture option, like a do-it-yourself retractable ottoman bed, is perfect for a family with two children. This will require two strong carcass right size(By the way, you can use old single beds or sofas. Or make frames from wooden blocks.

The upper ottoman, which will not slide out, has side backs and fairly high legs. Its frame is reinforced with narrow transverse slats 1.4 cm thick.

The lower bed, sliding under the first, has only a front side part and two legs. It is equipped with wider cross planks cut from 1.4 cm thick plywood. They are fixed so that when moving they fall between the upper bars. In addition, we need transverse bars that limit the course and are attached to wide slats.

The following video will tell you how to make a stylish ottoman sofa with your own hands:

Children's option

Making it yourself is very practical. After all, children grow up so fast - why waste money. Moreover, you can make a cute little thing that the baby will love very much.

So, we decided to build a small sofa 1.5 by 0.8 meters. There you are step-by-step instruction how to make an ottoman in the nursery with your own hands:

Let's take slats 4 by 3 centimeters - this will be our frame. We will strengthen it with metal corners. At will, you can make legs - even from bars, even from curly balusters.
Now we take wood boards and sheathe our frame from all sides, except for the top. You will get a large box, which we block across with a bar. We process the surface outside and inside - primer and paint.
The seat and back (straight or curly) are cut out of thick plywood. We glue two layers of foam rubber to them - 10 centimeters and 2 centimeters. After the glue dries, we cover the parts with batting, and on top with upholstery fabric.
Using corners and screws, we attach the back to the frame. We fasten the seat with the help of furniture hinges - under it we got roomy drawers for the bed.

Do-it-yourself ottoman for a teenager

Change from bed

It happens that you want to update the interior so much, and thoughts about this are just a fountain, but one thing stops you - lack of money. But in the house there is an old, but still strong bed, and the owner with a hammer, saw and screwdriver "on you". In this case, there is every chance to get an excellent ottoman, which will cost almost nothing. Unless you need to spend money on a beautiful upholstery fabric.

Let's describe the process step by step:

Parsing old bed by carefully removing both backs and legs. Well, we remove the mattress beforehand (if there is one). If the bed is very ancient, then we will disassemble the frame, coat the parts with glue (PVA is best), and then assemble and let dry. So there will be no unpleasant creaking during operation.
Sew a cover from dense material measuring every detail. You can attach the cover with glue or a furniture stapler. In the latter case, you can attach a separate piece of fabric, cut to size, for each detail.
If there is a mattress, then put it in its place. If it is not there (worn out), then we buy it. Or we use dense polyurethane foam of the right size instead of a mattress. The top of the mattress is covered with a cover made of upholstery fabric, and inside we sew another cover - not necessarily elegant, but dense
We apply one of the backs of the bed to the frame and make markings with chalk according to the shape of the future back of the ottoman.
We cut out the back with a jigsaw, glue it and the legs of the bed with synthetic winterizer, sew covers from upholstery fabric on all these details.
Flip the frame upside down. We put the legs in covers and fasten them, hiding the edges, to the frame.
We fasten the back, dressed in a cover (hem the edges at the bottom for accuracy), with screws in several places.

A great example of placing a do-it-yourself ottoman

Making your own sofa

To make a sofa sofa, you need a little: decide on a model, find a suitable drawing and clarify the dimensions. To do this, we measure the space intended for our future furniture.

Now we will prepare wood boards with a thickness of 1.9 centimeters, of which the frame of the product will consist. You will also need bars 3 by 4 centimeters, which will make the structure reliable.

Now let's get started:

We cut out two side, front and back parts. Moreover, the back part should be higher than the front (the difference depends on the desired height of the back), and the right one should be slightly higher than the left.
We collect all the details, fastening them with furniture screws, the heads of which are hidden. We fasten the bars to the side parts, stepping back a centimeter from the top. In the middle part of the product we fix two transverse bars to hold soft pillows.
We close the sloppy edges of the chipboard with special overlays, using small cloves and glue to fix it. Then we prime, varnish or paint the frame.
Soft cushions (three pieces for the seats and three for the back) are made of high density polyurethane foam. The inner covers are solid. The outer covers consist of two hemmed pieces of fabric with grommets along the edges, pulled together with a cord.

The following video will tell us how to make a sofa in the style of the Chester sofa with your own hands:

Old ottoman

When the upholstery is tattered and frayed, upholstered furniture, even quite strong, takes on an extremely miserable appearance. And ashamed to invite guests. But you can fix this with your own hands by buying seven meters of suitable upholstery fabric and allocating time for work.

First you need to disassemble, removing all overhead elements (in particular, the back).
Then, using an anti-stapler, side cutters and a flat screwdriver, you need to remove the old upholstery. We try to do this as carefully as possible - after all, all these removed pieces will serve as patterns for fresh upholstery.
Next, we look at what is under it: if the foam rubber or spring blocks are out of order, then they will need to be replaced. In any case, a layer of fresh foam will not be superfluous.
Rasporov old upholstery, cut out new parts on it.
Then we sew them where necessary.
It remains to fix the fabric with a furniture stapler, avoiding distortion and pulling well.
Then we collect the updated ottoman.

And if internal filling still quite good, but only the upholstery suffered, you can do it easier - sew a new cover.

The following video will tell you how to drag an old chair, difan, sofa or, for example, an ottoman with your own hands:

Spring cushions

The spring block at the pillow is still quite good, and the upper layers have become unusable - this is quite common. In this case best option- sheathe the spring block on all sides with felt, and then with three-centimeter polyurethane foam grade 4065.

Most economical way: leave the burlap of the spring block. If it is dilapidated, we change it to the old upholstery from the pillow. Then we glue the outer box of 3038 polyurethane foam. Thickness - 3 centimeters.

If the springs are out of order, they will have to be replaced. However, if the price of them seems too high, you can make new pillows from the same polyurethane foam. Get it cheaper. For softness, wrap them with padding polyester.

Old sofa with new pillows

Nowadays, furniture stores are literally overflowing with various options. upholstered furniture domestic and foreign production, but its prices do not always please buyers. In addition, the cost of products sometimes clearly does not correspond to the quality of their manufacture. Therefore, in order to purchase a set of furniture, or at least one piece of it, you have to save up the required amount for several months or get into debt by taking out a loan.

However, there is another option to get the right accessory interior is to make, for example, a sofa with your own hands. For those who know at least a little how to work with carpentry tools, it will not be difficult to do this, albeit difficult, but very entertaining work. This publication will present several options for the manufacture of sofas that can be used in residential areas or on suburban area. Of these, it is quite possible to choose the one suitable for a particular case, both in design and in the degree of its complexity. Practice shows that it will take three to four times less funds than when purchasing a finished piece of furniture - so why not try to make it yourself.

Unscrupulous manufacturers often make the frame of upholstered furniture from what they have to, since the buyer does not have the opportunity to control the quality of the material. So, for the main frame, unedged bars eaten by a bark beetle are used, and ordinary cardboard is used to shape the backs. Well, the consumer for this literally penny material, lined with more or less decent trim, gives the amount for which you can buy a used car or live comfortably for the whole family for a month. Therefore, after making the calculations and making sure that you can save a very decent amount of money, you can get down to business on your own. In essence, the money that will be saved will become the salary of the home craftsman for making the furniture. In addition, there will be a reason to be proud of your talents in front of relatives and friends.

Of course, certain tools will be required for the job, which will be useful in household not only for the manufacture of furniture, but also for repairs. They will not take up much space in a closet on a balcony, garage or in one of the outbuildings of a private house.

The list of necessary tools for work includes:

Hand circular saw, electric jigsaw and (or) hacksaw for wood and metal.
Roulette, folding rule, building level, square.
or a screwdriver with a set of nozzles.
Electric drill with a set of drills.
It's great if you have a manual router at your disposal.
File with a large notch.
Clamps for temporary fixation of structural elements before their permanent fastening.
Chisels
A hammer.
Pliers
Stapler and staples.
Sewing machine for making sofa covers.

It should be noted here that if you use hand tools, the work will take much longer, and the accuracy of the edges of the manufactured parts will not be guaranteed.

Instructions for making several models of sofas

First option: making a corner sofa

This sofa model can have different options in terms of size and design features:

For example, the side protruding part of the sofa can be installed both on the left and on the right side;

Various mechanisms are used for mounting the lower, retractable part;
Plywood or board can be used to make a sofa;
The soft parts of the structure can be made of foam rubber and synthetic winterizer, or only of synthetic winterizer.
For decorative sheathing, fabric or leatherette is selected.

The dimensions of the sofa depend on the size of the room, the height parameters of its owners, and, of course, their preferences. Taking the dimensions proposed in the drawings, they can be “tried on” to the room where the sofa is planned to be installed, and if necessary, corrected in one direction or another, within reason.

This drawing will help to become a starting point in choosing the dimensions of this piece of furniture. However, you should pay attention to the fact that this model is somewhat different in its design from the version, the manufacture of which will be described in the table. However, the difference lies only in fixing the side back, which is built into the narrow section of the sofa.

This model is not as easy to manufacture as it might seem at first glance, as the master used special mechanisms for unfolding the sofa. But, having carefully studied the instructions for assembling it, it is quite possible to figure it out and come to the conclusion that making such a sofa in a standard apartment, and without leaving one room, is a completely achievable goal.

Manufacturing process - step by step

Illustration
	So, the first step is to make calculations and determine the size. Not only the comfort of the sofa and its optimal placement in the room will depend on this stage, but also the amount of necessary materials and additional structural elements. To begin with, it is worth drawing a sketch of a sofa on a piece of paper and writing out all the necessary details of the design, indicating their number. Based on the compiled list, the final amount of materials that will need to be purchased is calculated.
	In this case, for the manufacture of the sofa, the craftsman chose plywood 20 mm thick. However, it can be used in combination with a board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 mm. The board is usually used to assemble the frame of the sofa, which is then sheathed with plywood. If a complex design option is chosen, then the thickness of the plywood for sheathing can be smaller and be 15 mm.
	As you can see in the illustrations presented, the work can be carried out in the same room where the sofa is planned to be installed. The only thing to consider is solid foundation on which it will be possible to lay plywood and a board for marking and cutting. It is best to mark and make all the details of the structure at once, since when sawing wood, naturally, a large amount of sawdust is formed, which can be removed from the room at the same time without spreading it throughout the apartment. It is even better to stretch the floors of the room for the duration of these works. polyethylene film, which, after their completion, can be rolled up with the resulting garbage and taken out of the house. With such a simple approach, you can save yourself from small debris, which tends to clog under baseboards and fly under other furniture.
	The sawing of plywood is carried out according to the marking using a manual circular saw, which guarantees a perfectly even cut edge. In the absence of a saw, you can also use an electric jigsaw, but it is more difficult to handle it, since its cutting part can go to the side. It is recommended to number and sign the finished parts of the structure - such foresight will significantly speed up the assembly of the sofa, since the components do not have to be searched for and selected for a long time.
	To fasten the details of the sofa into one structure, it is necessary to prepare wood screws with fine threads, 50 ÷ 60, 30, 25 and 20 mm long. Here you need to take into account that they will be screwed into the end side of plywood 25 mm thick, so their diameter should not exceed 5 mm. Self-tapping screws should have a regular head, as they will need to be sunk flush into the wood. To avoid splitting the plywood, it is recommended to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm before screwing the screws into it. Then the fasteners will be screwed in easier, and the base will remain intact.
	Now that the sofa parts and fasteners are ready, you can proceed to the assembly of the structure. Since it consists of two sections, the larger one is assembled first.
	The back is taken, and the side parts of the lower box are attached to it. They are screwed through the rear wall panel to the end side of the side element with two or three self-tapping screws.
	Now the resulting structure is covered with a sheet of plywood prepared in size. When the sheet is screwed on, this section of the sofa will gain rigidity and strength.
	The sheet is laid flat, close to back wall and fastened with screws. First, it is attached to the horizontal end surfaces of the side walls of the box, and then, through the back wall, the screws are screwed into the thickness of the laid sheet. The pitch of fasteners should be 150÷180 mm.
	The assembled section is installed in the place where the sofa will be permanently located, and they begin to assemble the second, narrow part of the sofa. First they get together side walls and the back of the box. Self-tapping screws are screwed through a smaller wall and back, forming the width of the section, into the ends of the long sides, with the same step of 150 ÷ 180 mm.
	Now you need to screw its bottom to the assembled box. The box is covered with a sheet, leveled and screwed with self-tapping screws with a step of their installation of 200 mm. To fix the bottom, you can use self-tapping screws of a shorter length - 20 ÷ 25 mm, and their hats must be sunk into the plywood surface, otherwise there is a risk of spoiling the floor covering with them.
	AT assembled the design of the narrow section of the sofa looks like it is shown in the photo. When the sofa is ready, the inside of the box can be used to store bedding or other things. However, so that less dust from the floors gets into the box, it is recommended to subsequently sheathe it with a cloth. For this, a thin lining material is well suited.
	Now that the frames of both sections are ready, they need to be tried on each other. They are installed against the wall and move among themselves. Next, you need to return to work on the first wide section.
	Since it is planned to make the sofa sliding, for the part that will slide in and fold under a horizontal surface, three plywood parts will be needed - this horizontal surface(bed), front wall and plank 30 mm wide. In addition to wooden parts, you will need a special metal folding structure, which can be purchased at a furniture fittings store. Its width is selected depending on the linear dimensions of the wide section of the sofa. This metal mechanism is fixed on all three wooden parts that are not fastened together.
	First, the metal structure is screwed to the inside of the front part, and its back side, equipped with wheels, is fixed to the plywood plank. After that, the addition test can be performed. Any bar is applied to the upper structural element, which is pressed. In this case, the upper metal shelf of the mechanism should fall to the bottom.
	If the system works well, then you can move on to temporarily fixing the resulting folding structure on top of the plywood sheet that forms the lounger.
	It is temporarily fixed because it is necessary to determine the location on it metal parts mechanism, as well as to try it on general design sofa. You will have to remove the sunbed for laying foam rubber on it and covering it with fabric.
	So, the retractable part is fitted to the box of the wide section. At this stage, it is important to make sure how well the parts fit together, and whether they freely enter the space under the bed of the main section.
	The front side of the pull-out part of the sofa should have the same height as the surface of the lounger of the main section.
	Now it is necessary to verify the rise of that part of the lounger, which is fixed on retractable design, determine the height of the corners along which she will walk, as well as the location of the stopper.
	In order for the mobile part not to extend completely, but, reaching the edge of the lower part of the lounger, to stop, a rectangular profile pipe is fixed to the edge of the inner side of the wide section. For the convenience of marking its location, and then fixing it, the wide section is turned over and laid on the back wall.
	While the section is in an inverted position, a line is also marked on its side walls, on their inner side, along which the guide metal corners are then placed and fixed. Thanks to these elements, the mobile part of the sofa will slide in and out freely. The corners are screwed through holes pre-drilled in the corners with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. Fastening is carried out with a step of 180÷200 mm.
	When the retractable lounger is fitted to the surface of the main surface of the sofa, the plywood can be removed. So it will be convenient to make another fitting, and then lay the foam on the retractable surface.
	The retractable part is installed with wheels screwed to the plywood plank on the corners fixed on the sides of the wide section, and slides into the space under its lounger.
	Before making the soft part of the lounger, it is recommended to round the corners of the plywood a little with a jigsaw, or process it with a file with a large notch - this will help keep the sheathing material from damage. Now you can proceed to the sheathing of the retractable surface of the lounger. To do this, foam rubber with a thickness of 100 mm of the desired size must be prepared. It is recommended to glue it to the plywood surface. For this purpose, polyurethane glue or “Moment”, which is pointwise applied to plywood, is suitable. A synthetic winterizer is laid on top of the foam rubber.
	The next step is to put on a sheathing cover on top of the synthetic winterizer, wrap it on the reverse side and fasten it with staples driven in with a stapler.
	When the mobile part of the lounger is sheathed with material, a folding metal structure is screwed back to it. This finished part sofas need to be set aside for the time being.
	Next, you can move on to sheathing the plywood base of the lounger for the narrow section of the sofa. A foam rubber sheet is also glued onto it, covered with a padding polyester, which is well leveled. After that, the lounger is sheathed with leatherette - it is also fixed to the plywood with staples. The upholstered lounger is also set aside for the time being.
	The next step is to cover the backs of both sections of the structure with fabric. The corners of the plywood backs also need to be treated with sandpaper, then pieces of synthetic winterizer are fixed along their edges, after which they are covered with fabric, which is fixed with staples with reverse side walls.
	Further, the front part of the box and half of the side walls of the narrow section of the sofa are upholstered with leatherette. It is recommended to lay a synthetic winterizer under the sheathing material. Sheathing of only these parts of the structure is carried out because on the sides, closer to the back wall, the side back of the sofa will be fixed on one side, and a wide section will adjoin the other side.
	Since the lounger of the narrow part of the sofa must rise and fall. special lifting mechanisms are marked and fixed in the box of this section.
	To check the operation of these structural elements, after fixing them to the sides of a narrow box, a plywood strip is alternately laid and fixed on top of them and pressed down, and then rises. The bar should be springy - this will subsequently ensure easy raising and lowering of the narrow section lounger.
	If the mechanism works satisfactorily, then in place of the fixed bar, it is installed and screwed to the sheathed soft part of the narrow section lounger structure. Here you will need an assistant, since at this stage the sunbed must be held at the right angle.
	Now the pillow covers sewn from leatherette are filled with synthetic winterizer and sewn up. It should be noted here that instead of padding polyester, pillows can also be formed from foam rubber.
	Further, side backs are formed from plywood and wooden slats. They can have a rectangular top or rounded on one or two sides - this design is made according to one's own desire. Some craftsmen, instead of wooden planks, use thick thick cardboard 2 ÷ 2.5 mm thick, which is sprayed with water from a spray bottle before fixing. Wet material is more plastic and takes the desired shape more easily. After its installation, before sheathing these structural elements, the cardboard must be dried well.
	At the next stage of work, the wooden or plywood-cardboard construction of the side backs is completely upholstered with padding polyester, except for the lower part. The material is secured with staples.
	The next step is to put leatherette covers on the backs and fasten them with staples to their lower part.
	Ready-made backs are installed and fixed on both sides of the overall structure - one on the outside of the narrow one, the other on the wide section.
	The backrests are fixed through the walls from the inside of the box with four to five self-tapping screws. In order for the fasteners to fit snugly into the material, the backs must be pressed against the wall, or they must be held securely by an assistant.
	As a result, the design of the sofa without removable pillows will look like this illustration.
	To expand the sofa, it is necessary to push forward the lower part with the sunbed recessed into it.
	Then, raise the sunbed to the same level with the rest of the pillows using the installed retractable lifting mechanism. It should be noted here that the author of the project went the hard way, choosing a mechanism for unfolding complex design requiring precise setting. If such a system is not found or seems too complicated, then you can do it a little differently by making a retractable box with a plywood lid. However, in this case, instead of separate pillows, a double folding mattress is fixed to the wide section of the sofa. For the narrow section, two parts of the mattress are provided - the lower one is fixed to the plywood part of the lounger, while the upper one is made removable. The latter is simply removed and removed into the interior of the section when the sofa is unfolded. Thus, all pillows of the structure will be on the same level. In this case, four wheels will need to be fixed on the retractable part of the sofa, and a stopper should be installed under the plywood lounger of the wide section.
	Another nuance that I would like to clarify. In some models of this type of sofa, the side back, installed on a narrow section, seems to crash into it, that is, it does not go beyond the overall design. This option is convenient if the sofa should be pressed against the wall with this side, so there will be no space between it and the sofa, in which dust will inevitably accumulate.
	If you choose a model with a built-in side back, as well as with mattresses instead of individual pillows on the lounger, the corner sofa will look like this illustration. Moreover, in this case, all the pillows are made of foam rubber, which must be covered with padding polyester, and then filled into fabric or leatherette covers.

Second option: sofa book

Design features and required materials

This version of the sofa can be called traditional for many Russian apartments and, despite the fact that the model was developed several decades ago, it still remains in demand by buyers. This fact can be explained by the fact that it is simple and reliable in operation, and the mechanism designed for its unfolding is easy to mount, as it has a clear, simple design.

Today, the task of making such a sofa is also simplified by the fact that in modern furniture stores presented big choice furnishing elements.

For example, fiberboard, which was previously used for sheathing a structure, can be replaced with lamellas designed specifically for installation on beds and sofas. They are not only great replacements sheet material, but also compensate for the softness of the structure, as they tend to spring. Thanks to this quality of details, the thickness of the mattresses can be made smaller.

The design that will be presented below must be manufactured and assembled in accordance with these recommendations, but design decoration, as well as the shape of the side backs, can be made according to your own sketches, but in compliance with the basic dimensions.

So, the sofa book consists of the following elements - this is a backrest, a lounger seat, side backrests and a box for storing bedding or other things.

To make a sofa of this design you will need:

Board with a thickness of 20 ÷ 25 and a width of 200 mm for the sofa frame.
A beam with a section size of 50 × 50, 60 × 40 and 50 × 30 mm.
Fiberboard 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.
32 furniture slats 65 mm wide, 500 mm long.
Foam rubber and synthetic winterizer.
Upholstery fabric.
Sofa unfolding mechanism (paired).
Legs.

Illustrated step by step instructions for making

The first step is to draw up a sketch drawing of the sofa and put down the dimensions of all the details on it. Having such a graphic document in front of your eyes, it will be much easier to make all the necessary structural elements.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The assembly of the sofa box is carried out first. Its size should be 1900 × 800 mm. Moreover, first, bars are fixed to the long details of the box, along their edges - they are screwed using self-tapping screws 60 mm long. The next step, to the inner sides of the bars fixed on the long walls of the box, the side parts are screwed. Before the final tightening of the fixing screws, it is recommended to measure the diagonals of the box - they must have the same size.
	The next step, in order to give rigidity to the structure, in the middle part of the bottom area of the box, two transverse bars with a section of 50 × 30 mm and a length of 800 mm are screwed from the outside. They are installed at a distance of 650 mm from the edge and 600 mm between them. In order for the bars to be fixed flush with the underside of the box, grooves 55 mm wide and 30 mm deep are cut in the boards at a specified distance from each other. In these grooves and fit, and then the transverse bars are fixed. After the box is assembled, its bottom is sheathed fiberboard sheet, the size of which is 1800×800 mm. Fixing the sheet on the frame can be done with staples, nails or self-tapping screws 20 mm long.
	The next step is the back and seat frames - their design has the same linear parameters. For their manufacture, a beam with a section of 50 × 40 mm is prepared. Seven parts of the following sizes are cut out of it: 3 pcs. - 650 mm; 2 pcs. – 400 mm, 1 pc. - 1890 mm and 1 pc. - 1880 mm. The frames are assembled in the following sequence: first, on a beam 1890 mm long, 50 mm are deposited from its edges. In these places, bars 650 mm long will be fixed. Their other side is fixed along the edges of the beam, which has a length of 1880 mm. Then, on long bars, their middle is determined and the middle crossbar is installed. Further, elements 400 mm long are attached to the free edges of the longest beam. In addition, they are screwed with self-tapping screws 70 ÷ 80 mm long to the extreme short transverse bars. These elements, before fixing, are cut in the upper part at an angle of 30 degrees. They will be in the front of the lounger and in the upper back. When unfolding the sofa, the side back should be between these protrusions of the structure.
	The simplest connection of a beam is in half a tree, that is, in each beam, at the place of its connection with a perpendicular one, half of its thickness is cut out at the corners. In our case, this is 20 mm, that is, the groove should have a size of 50 × 50 × 20 mm. To install the middle beam, from each of its edges, as well as in the marked on long beam, the place is also cut out 20 mm thick, and the groove must also have the size indicated above. Then the transverse beam is first glued into the groove, and then screwed with two self-tapping screws 30 mm long, with their diagonal arrangement. It must be said that it is possible to fasten structural elements with other connections, but this is one of the simplest.
	Further, long sides the frame is marked for the installation of lamellas, the distance between which should be 60 mm. According to the marking, metal or plastic brackets with grooves are fixed, which come with the lamellas. After fixing them on the frame of the backrest and lounger, the edges of the lamellas are inserted into them.
	The next step is to make the side backrests-armrests. First, according to the dimensions shown in the illustration, four identical parts are marked out, drawn and cut out.
	Then the two cut parts are stacked in a mirror image to each other and marked. According to this marking, bars having a thickness of 50 mm are fixed. To begin with, they can be glued with wood glue. Their width can be the same or different, the main thing is that in the places where they will be attached to the sofa box, the beam should have a width of at least 80 ÷ 100 mm, since holes for fixing bolts 120 × 8 mm in size will be drilled in them. Bolt holes are drilled immediately after the glue on which the frame beam is fixed has dried, at a height of 150 mm from the bottom of the side back. Further, the frame is covered with a second similar part, cut out of fiberboard, which is nailed to it with nails 30 mm long. After that, the sides are turned over, and the other side of the fiberboard is also nailed and holes are also drilled in it.
	Further, in the side walls of the box, at a height of 150 mm, with an indent from the edge of 100 mm, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to fix the side walls. In addition, at this stage it is most convenient to screw the legs of the sofa to the box, since after fixing the remaining elements, it will be more difficult to turn the box over.
	The next step is to attach folding mechanisms to the back, sunbed and box. The scheme of their installation is presented in this illustration. Fixation metal elements It is made with the help of bolts for which holes are drilled in the side walls of the structures. In addition to bolts, self-tapping screws are used to fix the mechanism - for example, they are additionally attached to the corner plates on the back and seat frames.
	To begin with, on the side wall of the box, you need to find the middle, 5 mm is deposited on each side of it, at this distance from the middle the back and sunbed are laid. A mechanism is attached to them and marks are made on all the details of the sofa, along which holes will be drilled. Further, the mechanism is fixed on all the details of the sofa.
	After the folding system is fixed, you need to try on the side backs to the sofa. But so far they are not screwed, since before that they will need to be sheathed.
	Sheathing is done starting from the back and sunbed. To do this, the sofa is laid out and first interlining is laid on the lamellas, then a thin synthetic winterizer, and on top of it - foam rubber 50 mm thick. So that the foam rubber does not interfere with the folding and unfolding of the sofa, its corners adjacent to the mechanism are cut out, as shown in this illustration.
	To make the back and lounger more comfortable for sitting, additional foam rubber strips are glued to their edges on top of the foam rubber, 200 wide and 20 ÷ 25 mm thick. Then, the entire flooring is covered with another sheet of foam rubber, 20 mm thick, but having a large width, such that it can be bent under the thickness of the sunbed structure and behind the back. There, the foam rubber is fixed with staples using a stapler.
	The foam rubber fixed on the frame is covered thin layer synthetic winterizer - these materials are well fastened together without the use of glue. After that, sewn-to-size covers are put on top of the back and sunbed, which are nailed to the wooden structural elements with staples. If desired, in several places of the sofa, buttons sheathed with the same material are installed with strong cords inserted through them, which are threaded through the sheathing and tied to the lamellas, and their ends are shot to the wooden structural elements with brackets. After sheathing the lounger and the back of the structure, the upholstery is also fixed on the front side of the base-box.
	Next, move on to work on the side backs. The first step is to glue the foam on the top side. On the rise and in the upper part, the thickness of the foam rubber should be 50 mm, and in the lower area where the hand will lie - 80 mm. It should turn out approximately as shown in the photo.
	The next step is the armrest of the side backrest is covered with foam rubber 20 mm thick, which is nailed to the fiberboard with staples.
	On top of the foam rubber fixed on the armrest, another foam rubber sheet 20 mm thick is fixed. It should protrude from the front of the armrest by about 100 mm.
	The front protruding part of the foam rubber is bent and adjusted with staples to the front of the side back frame. Further, it is recommended to cover the foam rubber on the armrest, as well as the entire area of the walls below with a padding polyester, which is also nailed with staples.
	Before performing the next operation, bolts are inserted into the holes drilled in the side backrests, onto which washers are put on. The next step is to cut out pieces of fabric of the desired size and shape, and then they sheathe the walls of the sides. First, the fabric is nailed with staples in the upper part, and then tucked under the bottom of the back and fixed there.
	Further, the armrests are covered with separate pieces of fabric. These segments are fixed under the armrests, on top of the already fixed fabric, first from the outside, and then from the inside of the armrest. After that, the fabric is neatly folded and fixed with a stapler from the front of the side backs, and is closed on top with a wooden decorative overlay, which, like all accessories, can be purchased at a specialized store. It remains only to screw the side backs to the lower box through the previously drilled holes. This process is carried out from the inside of the frame structure.
	When unfolded, the finished sofa-book looks as shown in this illustration.

Find out a few available options, from our new article on our portal.

The third option is a sofa for giving from an old bath

Design features and required materials

Old bath after holding overhaul often becomes an unnecessary burden. Usually it is taken to a landfill or to a summer cottage and left to rot in the far corner of the site. AT best case, it heats water for watering especially whimsical plants. At the same time, a lot of money is spent on the purchase of garden furniture. At the same time, not many people know that from a bath that has served its main role for the allotted time, it may well turn out to be a comfortable and original sofa that fits perfectly into the landscape design of the territory and will last for very many years.

Such unusual item furniture can be installed outdoors, on the terrace, in the gazebo or. With proper design, such a sofa and the interior of a country house will not spoil.

In order to make such a sofa, both a cast-iron and a steel bath are suitable. Of course, it is more difficult to work with cast iron, and it is also not easy to move such a piece of furniture from place to place. But with a steel bath, no special problems are foreseen. Sofas made from old bathtubs will last for many years if you work on them well. Moreover, what design and color to choose for the sofa - the master is determined by himself. The most basic thing in the manufacturing process is preparing the base for applying paint, cutting out the excess part and processing the edges after trimming them.

Check out the unusual, inexpensive and very practical independent production, in a new article on our portal.

Step-by-step instructions for making a sofa from a cast-iron bath

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	In this embodiment, an old one is used to make a sofa. cast iron bath with legs-paws, which are always the decoration of this accessory, and we will not throw them away. The illustration shows that enamel coating the container is in a very unenviable condition. In all likelihood, she had lain in an unheated shed for more than one year, or even lay near the fence in the open.
	Cracked enamel and the resulting corrosion stains will definitely have to be removed from the surface of the bath. Since the cast iron surface is not perfectly smooth, unlike steel bath, you will have to work hard on it to remove all the old dirt from it, the remnants of cracked enamel, pieces of scale and give it an aesthetic appearance.
	The legs were fastened to this model with the help of bolts, which during the operation of the bath and its expectation of its “renaissance” in the form original sofa, are heavily rusted, and one can hardly hope that they will unscrew without using special means. Therefore, in order not to complicate the process and not to spoil the thread, a composition (for example, WD-40) is sprayed onto the mount, which helps soften the rust. Then this area is left for some time, indicated on the cylinder by the manufacturer. After this time, the nuts from the bolts should be twisted without difficulty. Other threaded parts should be treated with the same tool, which must be removed before cleaning and painting the container.
	Before moving on to cleaning the surface, markings are made along which the front of the bath will be cut out. In this case, a cut was already made in one of the edges of the bathtub, apparently, this had to be resorted to in order to pass water pipes when installing the mixer. So that this man-made flaw does not spoil the entire appearance of the structure being created, the cutout is marked from this side.
	To mark the bath, a square and a dark marker are used, which will be clearly visible on a light surface. To begin with, the lower part of the cut is determined - for this, a square is attached to the bath, and a perpendicular line is drawn, along which it will be easier to navigate, making the slope at a greater or lesser angle.
	Further, the exact lines are outlined along which the cutout will be made on one and the other side of the container. Since the bathtub has a curved surface, and the cutouts must be in harmony with each other, repeating the shape of the container, it is possible to measure the required distance from the vertical line of a right angle using a tape measure or square, first in height and then to the side. One way or another, the lines on both sides will be located at different angles.
	Having determined the exact outer line, it must be repeated on the inner surface of the container, since when cutting, work will be done both from the outside and from the inside of the bath. From the inside of a curved surface, it is quite difficult to determine a right angle, so the transfer of the line will have to be done, so to speak, by eye. However, special accuracy is not required from the master here - the curvature of the lines is still necessary, and everything depends to a greater extent on the subsequent processing of the cut edge.
	The second side of the container, where are located drain holes, not so curved - more close to right angle. But it is impossible to make a cutout exactly rectangular, otherwise the visual balance of the structure will be lost. Therefore, based on a vertical straight line, and taking into account the cutout angle that was found for the other side, the slope for the second side of the container is also determined. When the optimal slope option is found, the lower points of the lines of the two sides are connected by a horizontal line.
	Now the grinder comes into operation with a metal disc installed on it. There are no problems with steel, but the task of cutting cast iron is a very difficult task, one might say - delicate. It is impossible to praise the master who demonstrates cutting in these illustrations - it is imperative to fix a protective casing on the tool, since it is not known how such a heavy and fragile metal as cast iron will behave. It happens that when cutting it, the circle begins to tear, and this is very dangerous. The casing, of course, somewhat closes the view, so the cut must be done very carefully. Cast iron is cut very carefully, while it is necessary to protect the face by wearing a special mask, as the disk may be damaged or part of the metal being cut may fly off. There is no need to hurry, since it is easy during this process to overheat the grinder and completely render it unusable. So it is better to cut in small sections, 100 - 150 mm each, allowing the tool to rest and cool. First, a cut line is drawn from the inside, on the curved sides of the bath. Further, the cut is made from the outside of the container along the line drawn earlier.
	It is very difficult to cut high-quality bath enamel if the cut is made from the inside. So the work is best done for the most part from the outer surface of the bath. If you have to cut some section exactly along the enamel, then it is better to first install diamond circle, and gently clean the enamel along the cut line with it. And then proceed to work with a cutting wheel for metal. Having cut out one side of the bathtub, starting from the upper side, go to its second side, to the drawn lower horizontal line.
	Now it remains to make a horizontal cut, and the first, perhaps the most difficult and dangerous stage of work, will be completed. For convenience, the bath is laid on its side, and then, if necessary, props are installed under it, since when cut, it must stand very stable on the surface. Basically, this applies to steel baths, since they have less weight, while the cast-iron version usually fits snugly to the surface under its own weight.
	This is how the bathtub will look like, from which the fragment, which is unnecessary in this case, is cut out. Now, you can move on to a less complicated, but very dirty operation.
	Next, there is a mandatory process of leveling and grinding the cut, since the edge must be even and smooth, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself about its notches. The work is carried out with the same grinder. First, a cutting disc for metal is installed on it, with which the remaining metal burrs are cut off.
	Then, the edge is processed with a grinding disc. The cut end and its side parts are polished. If the sofa is made from a steel bath, its cut edge can be beaded down a little, since the metal is thin, and its cut will remain sharp even after grinding.
	Next, the outer surface of the bath is cleaned with a metal brush mounted on a grinder, and then with an emery disc. The dust formed on its surface is collected by a vacuum cleaner. After that, the outer side of the container is covered primer composition intended for processing metal products. The primer layer is applied carefully with a soft brush, as the substance must get into all the pores of the cast iron surface. The soil should dry well, after which the surface is again cleaned with an emery disc with a medium grain. Dust after cleaning is also collected by a vacuum cleaner. You can immediately thoroughly clean and prime the previously removed bath legs, as shown in the illustration.
	Move on to the next operation outer surface bath, the first coat of paint of the selected color is applied. Paint must be chosen for external works designed for metal. It will prevent the appearance and spread of foci of corrosion under the influence of the external environment.
	After applying the paint, the smudges formed on the surface of the bath must be collected with a soft cloth, leveling the paint layer with it. The napkin is applied to relevant areas surface and pressed against the metal, collecting excess paint.
	When the paint dries, another layer is applied on top of it, which will make the outer surface of the bath (that is, sorry, the sofa) smoother, which will reduce the risk of dust and dirt particles being trapped on it. This is especially important if the sofa is planned to be installed outdoors.
	The legs of the bathtub and their fastenings must also be well cleaned of rust - their processing, as we have already seen, is usually carried out at the stage of priming the bathtub. Cleaning, however, will have to be done manually. Then all parts are treated with a primer, dried, cleaned and painted, it is possible in a color that contrasts with the rest of the surface of the bath. After that, the legs are fixed on the bath with threaded connection. If possible or necessary, fasteners are replaced with new ones.
	Now moving on to work on inner surface circumcised bath. The first step is to repair the chips that formed along the edge when cutting the metal. For this purpose, an epoxy or polyurethane two-component putty is well suited, which is applied along the inner edge of the bath with a spatula. The putty is leveled and left to dry completely.
	When the putty dries, the area where it was applied must be well cleaned and then sanded using, for example, an eccentric sander with emery nozzles of various grits. If there is no such tool, then you will have to work manually - with sandpaper.
	Further, the entire inner surface after cleaning is covered with a primer and left to dry. It is very important to treat the holes that are in any bath well, as corrosive processes can begin to spread from them. To prevent the primer, and then the paint, from getting on outside containers, along all edges, paper is fixed to the masking tape, which is removed only after the completion of all work.
	When the primer is completely dry, all surfaces are cleaned with an eccentric sander with an emery nozzle. The primer should be as if rubbed into the cast iron surface.
	Further, the inner surface is covered with enamel on metal. It is best sprayed with a spray gun, but can also be applied with a brush. If the staining will be carried out manually, then the paint should be slightly diluted with a solvent and applied, taking a small amount onto the brush coloring composition. Only in this case the paint layer will be even. Some craftsmen apply the paint with a sponge that is dipped in the paint and then pressed against the surface. This process is quite lengthy, but with the help of a similar technique, original stains with color transitions can be reproduced on the surface. Besides, inner side the bathroom will acquire a pleasant roughness.
	Now it is worth considering the manufacture of a mattress that will be laid on the bottom of the sofa. All such soft parts can be made both before and after painting and drying the container. But in order for the mattress to fit perfectly on the bottom of the bath, you need to measure it on the spot, that is, lay a rectangular sheet of foam rubber cut to size, and then round its corners in accordance with the shape of the bottom of the sofa. For this work, you can use a sharp clerical knife and scissors.
	The cut foam rubber is laid on the fabric from which the cover will be made. On the fabric, the foam rubber is outlined with a marker, and when cutting the material, 10 mm per seam is taken into account, that is, 10 mm recede from the line left on the fabric by the marker. You will need two such parts, and in addition to them, you will need a strip of the same or another material equal to the thickness of the mattress plus 10 mm on each of its sides.
	You also need to cut two ribbons 30 mm wide and a length that is equal to the edge of the mattress, plus 20 mm for the seam. In addition, you will need to prepare a cord that will be sewn into the tape - it is necessary to maintain the shape of the mattress. The tape is bent in half, a cord is inserted into it and fixed with sewing pins, after which the tape is sewn along the fastening line on a typewriter.
	Further, the resulting edges are fixed on each main fabric part of the future cover, with the same pins and stitched to them on a typewriter, after which the pins are removed. After that, the parts are combined with the front side inward. Then, first, a side tape is pinned to one part from the wrong side so that the edge of the piping with a cord sewn into it is on the front side. Then, the combined parts are sewn on a typewriter. Further, the second side of the tape is pinned to the second part of the cover and also sewn, but only from three sides. The fourth side will be sewn by hand after the cover is put on the foam.
	The finished mattress should fit perfectly into the bottom of the sofa made from the bathtub.
	If desired, the back of the bathtub can also be equipped with a soft support cushion by gluing it with polyurethane or epoxy glue. If the goal is to get a sofa with a completely soft inner surface, then it is possible to sew a removable insert from foam rubber and fabric, which will completely cover the entire structure from the inside. Here already - the widest scope for creativity.

It remains only to note that if you turn on your imagination, then from the bath you can make not only a sofa, but also an armchair, table and other furniture accessories.

Read interesting information about new life for old stuff in new article -

Now that have been studied detailed instructions for the manufacture of three different types of sofas, you can make a choice desired model in accordance with the planned place of its installation and the intended functionality of this piece of furniture.

And at the end of the publication - a demonstration of the manufacturing process of another original and relatively simple sofa model.

Video: Self-made original sofa

Introduction to instructions.

In this instruction, I will tell you in detail how you can make a corner sofa at home with your own hands. Absolutely free of charge, you will receive detailed drawings of the sofa with the dimensions of the frame parts, assembly diagrams, fabric cutting maps, a detailed story on how to upholster (cover with fabric) the sofa yourself. The instruction took up many pages, so at the top you see a menu button with section navigation.

The article belongs to the site site

To make this sofa according to the instructions is available to a person with a minimum level of training and with a small set of tools. I am not campaigning to make copies of upholstered furniture at home. the highest class, but the sofa that I offer will not be inferior in quality to 90% of the assortment available in stores, and many will even surpass. In favor self-manufacturing there are several arguments:

You save money. The sofa will cost you 3-5 times cheaper than bought in a store. I designed the sofa with the utmost care for economy (of course, not at the expense of quality - it comes first).
You make the sofa yourself, which means you control the quality yourself! You do not need to be afraid of whether there will be raw timber in your sofa, knots in critical places, low-quality foam rubber, etc. You yourself are responsible for everything, but you will not deceive yourself. And how to make a sofa correctly, I will teach you.
You can make a sofa of the size you need.
Subsequently, you will be able to independently make a sofa constriction and, again, save money. For example, see how much a professional hauling costs.
And finally, incomparable satisfaction and pride in the work of their hands.

This is a corner sofa with fairly simple, minimalist forms. Its design looks very modern, in stores such sofas cost more than tens of thousands, but it is quite possible to do it yourself at home. Initially, I will describe the manufacture of a sofa without a folding mechanism, but everything will be done in such a way that it will not be difficult in the future to make this sofa folding, with

Sofas are one of the most necessary things in the interior of any apartment and indeed, they perform very well. useful features in any room: they rest and you can store things in them.

In this article we will try to tell you how to make a sofa with your own hands. After all, sometimes there are circumstances that do not allow you to make this rather expensive purchase, and then your skills and ingenuity should come to the rescue.

With the help of this article, you can make a simple pallet sofa that does not require even an average skill level from you, and a rather complex corner sofa, for the manufacture of which you need to have some skills in carpentry.

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Advantages of making your own upholstered furniture

Let's see if we need to make a sofa with our own hands and what is the plus of this work.

Significant savings in money. Sofa own production will cost you several times cheaper than its store counterpart.
Quality. There is such a phrase "do as for yourself." The owner, who makes furniture for himself, approaches the quality of the material used as responsibly as possible. You choose the best and dried timber, upholstery without "chemistry" and foam rubber with a certificate.
Design choice. Who, if not you, knows best what is most suitable for your apartment. And not always in the store you can find the perfect sofa suitable for the interior your home, and you yourself can always make all your wishes come true and assemble a sofa that is most suitable for the atmosphere of the apartment.
Dimensions. You can always make furniture that is the most suitable in size to your room. This is especially important for small apartments where you want everything to fit perfectly and, at the same time, not take up much space.
Self stretching. If you at least once made the manufacture of sofas with your own hands, then later, when you change the design of your apartment, you will be able to independently carry out the hauling of the most suitable fabric. The same can be said about replacing the old skin with a new one.
A self-assembled sofa will always be the subject of your pride in front of guests and members of your family.

Pallet sofa

Of course, a pallet sofa is not a top. design art, but still you can give a bunch of examples of how it will be useful in a given situation.

Such a sofa can be very useful for temporary use. It is mounted very quickly and if, for example, old sofa broken, and you have not yet purchased a new one, or when moving to a new place of residence, when all the furniture is still in old apartment, then this self-assembled furniture will be real way out out of position.
This sofa will cost you almost nothing, so if you don't have the money for a new one yet, you can use this option.
Having built such a sofa in a country house or a country house, it will add originality to your home.
When assembling a sofa, you will gain invaluable experience that will be useful in the subsequent manufacture of similar structures. This will be your first step, not fraught with significant difficulties, because its assembly does not even involve using the drawings of the sofa.
Sometimes there is nowhere to throw extra pallets, so why not use them for such a practical benefit.

But when using pallets, you cannot use those on which oils, chemicals and other products were transported. harmful substances. Therefore, be sure to check this issue.

corner sofa

If you decide to update your kitchen and equip it with an additional design element, which will also perform several functions, then you need to assemble a sofa in the kitchen with your own hands, usually in the form corner design. After all, such a sofa can serve as a place for eating, for relaxing and, moreover, to be a repository for all kitchen utensils.

Note!
With minimal knowledge and skills in carpentry and assembly work, you can produce a comfortable and beautifully designed small kitchen sofa.

Another positive point is that almost any table is suitable for such a sofa. geometric shape.

Initial stage of work

To begin with, we choose a place where this furniture will stand and, in accordance with this, we will make all the main measurements. We will need to find out the length of each part of the sofa, the width of the seat and its height. And after that, all measurements will need to be transferred to the drawing of the corner sofa. With the help of a properly drawn up drawing, it will be much easier for you to manufacture and assemble it.

When measuring, try to correctly calculate the dimensions of the chair, namely the depth and height of the seat. After measurements, having calculated the amount of material, go and buy it in the right amount, it is possible with a small margin, leaving a small percentage for damage.

Sofa assembly

Cut the details the right sizes and start assembling the frame. When assembling the frame of the sofa, tightly join its lower part, which can first be glued and then put on the screws. After assembling the frame, prepare the panels. The panel material is usually chosen medium density. It is strong enough and also cuts well with a conventional circular saw.

Finish the assembly work by fastening the panel to the frame with long screws. Before final screwing, move all the parts to the kitchen and assemble the sofa, making sure it is assembled correctly. The last step will be the fastening of the backs, which are also first glued and then screwed.

Final work

To increase the functionality of the sofa, use hinges when assembling the seat. Then you can open them and use them as an additional container for items. Then we carry out the upholstery of the sofa with a cloth. It must meet two requirements: to be practical and beautiful. Fabrics on synthetic fibers, which are remarkably clean and also repel moisture and dirt. Also excellent material is a leather that is practical and easy to care for.

Sheathing process

Sofa eurobook

Another piece of furniture in your apartment can be a Eurobook sofa. This is a very comfortable bed that easily transforms into a seating area. Inside them is a roomy niche for a bed or other items.

Note!
The main parts of such sofas are the back, seat, sides and base.

If you decide to assemble such a design yourself, then you need to understand that it is more complicated than the first two options considered, but this is not an impossible task.

Assembly method

In general, to create such sofas, two assembly methods are used from beams and wooden sashes. The first option is more complex and will require average mounting skills and a longer work process. But this option is also more durable, and this quality is quite useful in the manufacture of sofas.

Usually, when creating the frame of a sliding sofa, a beam measuring 21 by 7 cm is used, which, by the way, can also be used to make legs. It should be noted that reclining the back to horizontal position, as well as the movement of the seat back and forth occurs along the guides. In order to get acquainted with the assembly of sofas in more detail, view our master class.

How to make a sofa with your own hands video:

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Furniture occupies the main place in the interior of housing. This piece of decor allows not only to decorate the room beautifully, but also to fill it with comfort, homely warmth. Among the large assortment of upholstered furniture, the sofa couch is very popular. This is a prefabricated composition that can be used both as a bed and as a sofa. Thanks to its versatility, the sofa couch is great for apartments or houses where free space limited. In addition, the modern design has a chic look and fits easily into any home design. A very attractive option for many is an ottoman with their own hands.

How to do?

The sofa bed is characterized by many advantages. The main advantage is the possibility of self-production. If there is not enough space in the room, but you need to create a recreation area, then everyone can try themselves as a master and do it yourself modern model. The ottoman will look beautiful in any room, so it can be placed both in the hall and in the bedroom. To small sofa looked original in the room, it is often decorated with soft pillows.

Sofa ottoman refers to modern youth pieces of furniture that are easy to use, take up little space and have a neat look. A multifunctional sofa can be purchased ready-made or made independently, which is what many do. The process of assembling an ottoman sofa cannot be called simple, but everyone can handle it. In addition, the home design has more advantages - the ability to choose customized size and design style.

If you are going to start doing work, you need to decide on the size of the ottoman. If the room is small, then a sofa without additional rollers and pillows is suitable for it - 1980 m long and 1200 m wide. The seat height in this case will be standard - 450 mm. If desired, a special cabinet can be added to the design of the sofa, which will serve as a place for storage. bed linen. As for materials, for a standard ottoman you will need:

slats 20×40 mm;
boards 20 × 200 mm;
bars 60 × 60 mm;
foam rubber in sheets;
plywood;
upholstery fabric.

Instruction

Of course, in order to properly make a sofa couch, certain skills are needed, but for beginners, it is enough to be patient and follow certain instructions from the step-by-step instructions:

Base assembly. The frame of the sofa is made of solid wood (boards 20 × 200 mm) and plywood sheets - no more than 4 mm thick. All wooden elements connected with screws or furniture bolts. To make the ottoman durable and not creak during operation, before the bolts are tightened, the surface of the tree should be lubricated with PVA glue. Then along the bases of the boards you need to make cuts, they are necessary for installing the rails. The step between the rails should not exceed 200 mm. Plywood is nailed to the resulting frame with small nails, on which foam rubber is applied. Everything is covered with a fabric cover. In this case, the outer part of the upholstery is tucked inward to the frame and fastened with a starter or nails.
Seat decoration. To make the seat as comfortable as possible, it is decorated. Holes need to be drilled in plywood sheets, then a large needle, a dense thread are taken and a screed is made. This procedure is necessary not only to decorate the ottoman, but also to protect the base from displacement. All wooden details sofas must be covered with stain or varnish.
Sofa upholstery. For external design ottomans usually use a single piece of fabric, but sometimes you can also decorate using the patchwork technique. An unusual cover is easy to sew from pieces of old bedspreads. With the correct arrangement of the shreds, you get the original upholstery. If during the manufacture of furniture the hand does not turn out to be foam rubber, replace it with shavings or a cotton pad.
Final work. Many models of ottomans provide for the presence drawers. For their installation, scraps from the remaining wood are well suited. Initially, a pattern of boxes is made, then they are assembled and fixed with nails. In order for the drawers to be easily pulled out during operation, it is recommended to use a special roller mechanism. In case of its absence, you can simply fill the slats.

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