How to make platbands on interior doors. How to make a door frame. Production of wooden architraves

Platbands - a decorative element door structure performing an aesthetic function. The task of these overlay strips is to create a frame that covers construction defects and gaps between the wall plane and the door frame. The installation of platbands on the door does not differ in particular technological complexity, but being the final decorative touch, it requires scrupulous accuracy and knowledge of the nuances of sawing and fastening from the performer.

Video demonstration of the installation of door frames

Types of platbands and methods of their fastening

To cash out the door frame, the owner of the bath can use molded products made of wood, MDF or plastic. Carpenters are advised to give preference to laminated or veneered MDF products or PVC platbands, which practically do not react to steam and temperature fluctuations.

Mounting material and specifics:

• Wooden platbands can be installed on "liquid nails" or fastened with thin nails without hats. Hats can be cut off on their own or fastened with a construction gun that “shoots” with studs without them. When using nails with hats, the fasteners are slightly “drowned”, and the locations are masked with wax corrective pencils or matched to match acrylic sealants. The use of adhesives is acceptable, but will create problems if it is necessary to dismantle for cable laying or for the next repair. Liquid nails are applicable only in the case of perfectly aligned walls, otherwise there will be gaps between the casing and the wall to be finished.
• Outwardly, MDF platbands are practically indistinguishable from wooden counterparts, but their fastening is carried out according to special rules. In order not to damage the planks, the guide holes for the nails are drilled on them in advance. The holes are not through, a diameter of 1-1.5 mm is preferred. MDF, just like wood, can be simply glued.
• Platbands made of plastic prefer to be glued. Their cost allows you to dismantle cashing without regrets and the desire to reuse. Flexible plastic moldings can be glued to walls with minor irregularities.

Choice of cutting angle for joining

The angle is determined by the presence of a shaped relief on the front side. At the disposal of home craftsmen who figure out how to install trim on doors, there are two options:

• Planks with a flat surface without a shaped form can be cut down at right angles. The same is done if the door is framed with platbands with a capital. The direction of docking can be either horizontal or vertical. Before installation, saw cuts are painted or tinted with varnish.
• Embossed moldings, platbands with a rounded surface are cut down at a standard angle of 45º. This is the most common scheme that requires strict adherence to the rules and accuracy. The result of the slightest flaws will be unattractive gaps.

In order to ideally cut the workpiece at an angle, you need to stock up on a miter box and hand saw with small teeth. A flawless edge will turn out if the owner saws on trimming machine equipped with a turntable.

Features of telescopic architraves

Buyers of doors produced by a number of domestic factories are given the opportunity not to use fasteners at all when installing platbands with a patented telescopic design. The happy owners of Volkhovets or Sofya products will not need additional additions, since correction in case of vertical deviations and in case of discrepancy between the size of the box and the width of the opening is carried out by adjusting the telescopic door frame.

Details on how to install doors with telescopic architraves, their owners will learn from the manufacturer's instructions, since each of them has its own technological schemes. A feature common to all is the presence of a protrusion-slot, which is introduced into the groove on the box. Connections are recommended to be strengthened liquid nails.

Step-by-step work technology - measurements and installation

It is recommended to start framing the doorway with platbands:

• after completion of wallpapering;
• when equipping doors with platbands on both sides after pasting two adjacent rooms;
• before laying the plinth.

You need to start work on the side of the door structure into which the canvas opens. That is, from the side of the location of the door hinges. The reference point for measurements will be the bar that closes the box from the side where the hinges are located, since because of them the platband is not installed flush with the box. This indent should be equal on all three lines. For fastening platbands with reverse side doors do not need to be indented.

So, the order of work:

• With maximum accuracy, we measure the length of the vertical bar installed next to the hinges. The distance resulting from the indent is added to the length. The point obtained as a result of measurements will be the beginning of the line along which the excess is cut off from the workpiece at an angle of 45º.
• For the manufacture of the opposite casing, measurements are made in the same way, but separately. Not the fact that the distance from the floor to the required point will be equal.
• Sawn planks are baited with two nails. We fix one of them at the base, the second about a meter later.
• Under the unfixed upper ends of the vertical platbands, we put a blank for the upper bar. We mark on it the points required for flawless sawing at a 45-degree angle, saw off with a miter or simple mechanical saw.
• We fix all three components.

The base of the door frames usually rests on the floor, but sometimes a kind of bedside table-stand is placed under the door frame.

The step of installing studs or nails is determined independently. Carpenters recommend driving in galvanized or copper nails every 15 cm if lovers of slamming the door actively use it. With careful operation from an aesthetic point of view, the optimal step is 50 cm.

If the sawing angle is somewhat disturbed, gaps will inevitably appear at the joining points. Those who did not manage to avoid this due to inexperience do not need to despair. Failures can be masked with sealant. To do this, on both sides of the gap on the platbands, you need to stick a regular mounting tape. Preferably in several layers. Then fill the gap acrylic composition suitable tone.

We bring to your attention fast way accurate markup:

Correctly executed installation of platbands of interior doors guarantees considerable savings. Cash out in the same way entrance doors, however, the platbands are fixed mainly only from the inside, since the outer frame is already on the box. The work is not difficult, but meticulous, and without knowing the nuances, you can ruin a lot of material. By the way, carpenters advise inexperienced home craftsmen who want to become more adept in this direction to start with the most dimensional opening, so that in case of failure, the planks could frame a smaller door. Well, having received practical experience can take on complex tasks.

All photos from the article

Cash on interior doors the thing is purely decorative, this design does not carry a special functional load. But even if you managed to install the loot clearly along the doorway, without platbands the view will be, frankly, not elegant. But do not panic, such work is quite within the power of a person who has general idea about carpentry.

Preparation and selection of materials

When going to the market or to the store, keep in mind, as a rule, an interior door is sold without platbands.

This is done for two reasons:

• Firstly, such strips are not needed everywhere, for example, if the door is perpendicular to the interior partition, then on the one hand there is simply no place for such a bar;
• And secondly, the price of doors without cashing will be lower, which is convenient from the point of view of advertising.

Tip: it is better to pick up the strips immediately, in place, when buying a door kit. Otherwise, the probability is too high to make a mistake with the tone of the coating.

As for the material, 3 types of planks are used for the interior version.

• The most expensive and prestigious are wooden planks. But in this case, you should not pay attention to the lower price category. Cheap wooden planks can be poorly dried, resulting in them leading over time or cracking after shrinkage. If knots are present, then in this place the bar may crack during installation or the knot will fall out after drying;

• Now common plastic lining. The quality and appearance here are quite decent, the cost is affordable. Such strips are not afraid of temperature changes, humidity and other risks. If you are not confused by the plastic itself, then you can stop at it;
• But to be honest, almost half of our fellow citizens prefer veneered or, in extreme cases, laminated MDF. These strips do not deform, do not crack, and most importantly, they are 100% accurate.

Most often, nails for platbands of interior doors are taken galvanized or copper-plated. Available on the market now special nails without hats, but most craftsmen prefer to simply bite off the hats with pliers, it's faster and more profitable.

For fastening wooden planks, some prefer to use self-tapping screws. Of course, this is much more reliable, but in this case, the hats will need to be sunk into an array, and then covered with putty to match the bar so as not to spoil the view.

There is another option for planting planks on liquid nails or other adhesives. But they will hold only if the base is perfectly flat. Plus, at the slightest deformation of the wall or just on impact, the glue may not withstand.

Tip: often, most craftsmen prefer to coat the bar with liquid nails and additionally fix it with carnations.

Getting Started

As you know, the shape of the plank is figured, rectangular, teardrop-shaped and semicircular. The choice here depends on the design of the doors and the personal preferences of the owner. And if general instruction the installation is approximately the same, then with the joining of the corners, not everything is so simple.

Plank joining options

Planks can be connected at an angle of 45º or joined at the end at 90º. This is perhaps the most difficult stage of installation, especially if you decide to mount the platbands with your own hands for the first time.

In principle, nothing complicated, we insert a bar into the device and cut it through the groove at the desired angle. But if the device is old, then the grooves, as a rule, are “broken”, as a result, chips are obtained.

Tip: in order to minimize the likelihood of chips when making a cut, you need to stick a regular adhesive tape on top of the bar.

Hacksaw or cutting disc should be taken with as small a tooth as possible. Ordinary garden tools, as well as a jigsaw, it is better not to use it here. Based on experience, the easiest and most reliable way out is to use a hacksaw. Of course, you will cut a little longer, but everything will be smooth.

Trimming the platband at a right angle is certainly much easier. The whole problem is that it is only suitable for smooth planks of the correct rectangular shape or with slightly rounded edges. The principle is simple, the strips cut at 90º are joined at the end. Moreover, as a rule, the upper horizontal bar is inserted between two vertical side bars.

If the edges of the planks are slightly rounded, then end cuts you need to do it at an angle inward, so that they overlap, compensating for the rounding from above. There is another trick. You can insert a square decorative overlay into the corner, the choice of such products in the departments with furniture fittings is quite wide, the main thing is that they fit the interior of the doors and the room.

Plank installation technology

Important: cashing is one of the last stages of arranging a room; after its installation, it remains to mount only the skirting boards. If the plinth is already in place, then it must be removed. A plank installed above the baseboard will spoil the whole look.

• We will consider docking at 45º, as it is the most difficult. You need to start by measuring the side bar, which borders on door hinges. Do not forget to make a tolerance for opening doors, often 3 mm is enough for this. A mark is made along the inner edge, after which it can be cut off;

• Do not use the cut bar as a template for making the opposite one. Small unevenness in the floor or a barely noticeable skew of the loot will put your work in vain. Each plank is measured and cut separately;
• Planks are fixed with nails in increments of 50 cm.
• The upper crossbar is also cut off in turn. First, one side cut is made, after which it is applied to the loot and the place of the second cut is marked. folk wisdom about the fact that you need to measure 7 times before cutting off 1 time here it fits perfectly;

• Beginning craftsmen rarely succeed in joining all the joints without gaps. Do not be discouraged, small cracks can be covered with tinting putty later.

As part of our story, one cannot fail to mention the so-called telescopic casing. It's pretty comfortable design, it is used if the thickness of the walls slightly exceeds the thickness of the bulk itself.

But here the loot must be adapted to the telescopic connection and have internal grooves. The photo shows the principle of such a design.

There is also a separate type of architraves with a capital. They differ from traditional designs in a wide stylized top bar. Figuratively speaking, the doors are obtained with an impromptu "crown". As you understand, a capital needs an appropriate entourage.

Conclusion

Often the installation of platbands does not cause any particular difficulties, the main thing here is not to rush. In the video presented in this article, you can see how professionals do it. If after that you still have questions, write them in the comments, we will be happy to help.

The platband is a door element that performs a decorative function, closing the seam between the doorway and the frame. The appearance of the door depends on the quality of its installation, so you need to approach this process responsibly.

Types of platbands

Platbands differ from each other depending on the material from which they are made. They can be made from:

• tree;
• plastic;
• metal.

Each of the materials used has its own characteristics. Metal platbands are made of aluminum or steel.

Plastics are a great choice. color solutions. They are cheap, their installation is carried out using liquid nails. Plastic cashing is flexible, so it is successfully used on uneven walls.

Platbands from MDF have their own nuances when fastening. When using nails, blind holes must be made under them so as not to damage the material during the nailing process.

The form of platbands can be:

• flat;
• curly;
• rounded.

Flat and rounded can be purchased at any store. Figured, as a rule, are made to order.

Depending on the method of installation, the following types are distinguished:

Mounting methods

Do-it-yourself fastening of platbands can be done in two ways:

How to install platbands depends on their type and material of manufacture. So, telescopic fasten only on liquid nails. You can install the rest in one way or another.

Mounting Features

Installation of cashing is carried out after installing the door and finishing the walls of the room, but before installing the plinth. If the box is placed correctly and is flush with the wall, then it will not be difficult to nail the trim with your own hands.

If cashing needs to be fastened on both sides of the door, then start with the one where the hinges are. In this case, when fastening, one feature must be taken into account. It is not possible to mount the platband flush with the door frame, because the fittings will interfere. Therefore, a few millimeters are indented from the corner of the door frame. This distance is maintained when attaching the horizontal and second vertical strips. The installation of platbands on the door on the reverse side is carried out without this indent.

Docking platbands

The vertical and horizontal planks must fit together properly to ensure an attractive doorway. Platbands can be fastened by docking them together at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees.

Washed down at a 90-degree angle is used when the shape of the cashing of interior doors is flat, that is, it is a rectangle in the cut. In this case, the docking seams will be located horizontally or vertically, it does not matter. After sawing, the sections are processed acrylic paint or varnish. An angle of 90 degrees is also suitable for decorating with a capital - a decorative element that gives a luxurious look to the door.

An angle of 45 degrees is used when mounting figured and rounded platbands. It ensures perfect joining of horizontal and vertical strips. You can make such an angle using a miter box, a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw, drawing a cut line.

Tools for the job

Installation of platbands is carried out using the following tools:

• pencil, square;
• roulette;
• miter box;
• hammer, nails.

Instead of a miter box, a jigsaw or a hacksaw is quite suitable.

Mounting process

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands begins with measurements. It is necessary to correctly and accurately measure the height of the opening. This can be done with a tape measure, after which you transfer the measurement to the bar or attach the cash to the opening and, in fact, mark the place where you want to make the inside of the corner washed down. outside corner is defined as follows. To inside add the width of the casing and mark the place on its outer side.

Do the same with the second vertical bar. Do not blindly transfer the opening height values ​​obtained when measuring the first casing. Distance from floor to top point aperture may differ.

In order to correctly mark the horizontal bar with your own hands, the vertical ones are baited on two carnations: one is nailed near the floor, and the second - at a distance of a meter from the first. The vertical bar is pre-prepared by making it washed down at 45 degrees on one side. It is applied to the installation site, leading behind a vertical bar where there is no saw cut and, in fact, mark the angle that needs to be made.

After marking and sawing the corners of the plank, you need to nail it with nails or glue it around the perimeter of the doorway. A fastening step of 15-20 centimeters is used for doors that are often used. For balcony or pantry doors, 50 centimeters between the carnations will be enough.

Elimination of defects

If this is your first time doing the installation of platbands with your own hands, then not everything can be perfect. The cracks formed as a result of an incorrect gash can be hidden with wood putty or a wax corrector, choosing the desired color.

Telescopic architraves

Telescopic architraves are installed on interior doors with the help of special slots and grooves, which are provided at the manufacturing stage. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that fastening is possible only on an ideal flat surface. Otherwise, gaps will be noticeable, and the appearance of the doorway will leave much to be desired.

Do-it-yourself installation of telescopic architraves is possible on doors with different width opening. This is achieved due to the fact that the slot can be inserted into the groove not completely if the opening is larger than provided standard size. If it is smaller, then the protrusion can be filed.

For openings with very thick walls, the width of the uncovered area is hidden using telescopic extensions.

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors is not a difficult process. Knowing the installation process and types of cashing, you can choose suitable option in each specific case.

How to eliminate the gaps after installing the doors and give them an aesthetic appearance? For these purposes, specialists use platbands. Their main function is to hide defects and cracks that appeared during installation. Installing trim for interior doors is a responsible process that requires experience and skill from the master.

What are cashiers

The construction market is represented by a wide range of overhead slats. They differ in:

• functions performed: constructive, decorative;
• color scheme;
• shape: flat, rounded, curly;
• texture: simple planks, carved frames made according to patterns;
• sizes;
• installation method: overhead, telescopic;
• material: wood, metal, aluminium.

Finishing should be selected based on personal preferences, as well as taking into account the features of the interior, the exact installation site. When buying platbands, it is important to correctly determine the material. Any type of raw material has its pros and cons.

Wooden

Ten years ago, this view was the only option for decorating a door. But, despite the improvement of the construction industry, it is up to today is in demand. The main advantage is versatility: wooden planks are suitable for any type of door structure.

They may differ from others in their appearance. Depending on the taste of the consumer, the decor can be carved, with figures of various shapes.

Flaw wooden architraves on the door - the need to update them. But this is not a reason to refuse them. Modern platbands are made in such a way that they can be easily restored, puttied, applied paintwork.

MDF

Most people compare this material with fiberboard. On the one hand, they are similar in properties. On the other hand, in the production of MDF, the latest technology providing more high quality material.

MDF architraves are suitable for installation outside wet rooms

MDF is a fibreboard with medium density. According to the degree of environmental friendliness, it is the same as a tree. And veneered MDF is even outwardly difficult to distinguish from it.

Overhead planks made of MDF are preferred because of their low cost and durability. But when choosing, it must be borne in mind that it has poor moisture resistance. Therefore, it is not recommended to install it in rooms such as a bath, a toilet.

Plastic

These boards are made from durable plastic, which is not subject to changes under the influence of climatic factors. During operation, they do not fade, do not melt. Moreover, they do not need special care. Wet cleaning once a week is all you need.

Plastic architraves have high moisture resistance

Due to the low price, good moisture resistance plastic trim found a wide range of consumers. However, there are negative points.

The disadvantage of this decor is small selection models, as well colors. Usually white and several shades of brown are sold. Platbands of other colors are made to order.

Trim cutting methods

The appearance of the cashing depends on how carefully the master cuts the components of the structure. You can cut in several ways using:

• end electric saw;
• chairs, hacksaws.

To make the cut as even as possible, without chips, roughness, experts recommend using a professional electric saw. In this case, the device must be in good working order. If the saw blade is crooked, dull, or there is even a slight runout of the bearing, the result will be far from desired.

With the help of a professional saw, you can get a perfectly even cut.

However, you need to know that even high-tech equipment famous brands allows small errors. For them, there are certain tolerances: the angle washed down - 0.3-0.7 degrees, the inaccuracy of the joint - from 0.1 to 0.5 mm.

Who refuses to buy an electric saw can use the factory miter box. It is a tray made of metal, plastic or wood. With this tool, products are cut at different angles: 90, 45, 30 degrees.

Home craftsmen most often use a miter box

For cover strips made of different materials select the appropriate blade. Metal, plastic frames are cut with a hacksaw for metal, wooden - with a hacksaw for wood. From the right tool depends on the quality of the work done.

Ways of fastening platbands

Installation is carried out with finishing, liquid nails, self-tapping screws, "beaks".

With finishing nails

This type of fastener has found wide application due to a number of advantages:

• stealth;
• ease of installation;
• does not require experience.

For work, take thin nails about 4 centimeters long, up to 1.5 millimeters in diameter. The distance between them should be 50 cm. Points are marked on the rails with a simple pencil.

After fixing, the nails can be puttied to match the color of the wood, so that the nails will not be visible.

In places of marks, nails are driven in so that they enter the box by 20 mm. If the hats are narrow, then they can be left or, if desired, cut with side cutters. The resulting small depressions are masked with a wax pencil of a suitable color.

The disadvantages of working with finishing nails are:

1. Difficulty of dismantling. Due to the peculiar structure of the cap, it is almost impossible to get nails.
2. Less strong connection than conventional nails.
3. When choosing this method of fastening, also keep in mind that such nails are intended for finishing where there is no bending load.

liquid nails

This method is ideal for MDF framing. It is performed quite simply, does not require certain skills, dexterity.

For the installation of MDF platbands use liquid nails

Liquid nails are applied on the wrong side decorative element and attached to the wall. For the glue to grab, you need to hold it for a few minutes, and then fix it with tape.

This type of fastener is good because it leaves no marks on outside rails. However, the fastening strength is not as high as when using ordinary nails.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

This method is characterized by reliability. It is used for wooden products.

Wooden platbands are fixed with self-tapping screws

Even a beginner can handle a self-tapping screw construction business. To do this, you just need to follow the instructions:

1. Find self-tapping screws with a diameter of 6 millimeters, a length of 2 centimeters.
2. By front side slats put labels 50 cm wide apart.
3. Drill small holes in the indicated places, and then drill them out a little. This will hide the heads of the screws.
4. Screw in the screws. If desired, they can be disguised under putty or decorative overlays.

Fastening with "beaks"

The "beak" was nicknamed the platband, which outwardly resembles the Russian letter "G".

This method is very simple. It lies in the fact that the most large plot parts are placed in a recess specially designed for this and snap it into place.

The disadvantage of fastening with "beaks" is the gradual delamination structural element . Under the influence of the fastening itself, the strips begin to collapse at the junction points. As a result, there is a need for additional fasteners with glue.

Docking methods

There are 3 mounting methods.

Docking angle 45˚

During installation, it is impossible to do without trimming the sections in which the individual parts of the kit are connected. A 45 degree cut is the most commonly used. It is ideal for any type of finish, successfully hiding cut areas.

45˚ joint hides cut areas

The platbands are connected at an angle of 90 degrees. The top trim board is placed between the right and left sides.

Docking at 90˚ with simulated jumper

This installation method is used to create unusual design interior.

Great for historical imitation

Installation instructions for wooden architraves

You can make a door trim not only with the help of a master, but also with your own hands. To avoid mistakes, strictly follow the algorithm.

Stage 1. Preparatory work.

With a construction knife, clean the surface of the doorway from the protruding polyurethane foam. Then walk with an even rail around its entire perimeter, look at the position of the wall and the box. Existing problems will be solved during the installation of the frame.

Step 2. Mark the location of the overlay strips.

The overlay strips are installed in such a way that the rounded corners of the door frame remain visible.

Platband installation

And the straight lines from the side of the extension should coincide with the corners of the decorative element.

Pay special attention to the fact that the platbands do not interfere with the operation of the hinges, the lock "screwdriver" of the door. Attach the planks and mark with a pencil above the box above the joint angle at a distance of approximately 3 mm. The indicated places show the height of the vertical and the width of the horizontal elements of the decor at the lower docking corners.

Sometimes, during installation, dobors receive numerous damages. To hide them, experts advise putting marks on the door elements two millimeters below the corner. If there are no defects, then install the strips to them flush.

Step 3. Attach vertical strips to the marks and mark them at the desired height.

After measuring the platbands, number them and put the numbers on the wall in the appropriate place. This will allow you not to confuse them in the process of work.

Step 4. Cut the vertical parts of the structure at an angle of 45˚.

The cut should be even, without chips. When cutting, consider the kerf width as it can be up to 3 mm in some tools. Therefore, make an appropriate indent from the label.

Trimming of vertical strips is done taking into account the width of the cut

Step 5. Attach the vertical and then horizontal elements .

First fix the vertical bars, and then the horizontal ones.

Installation instructions for plastic trim

To make your own plastic trim, strictly follow the scheme:

Due to the fittings, the joints look beautiful, so there is no need to use sealant to close the gaps.

Aligning the plane of the casing with the wall

Our builders do not always adhere to standards, so there are many shortcomings. One of the most common are curved walls. What to do when the wall and the box are not parallel to each other?

If the error is very small, then it is not difficult to solve the problem. For this you need:

• Press the decorative rail against the box, measure the size of the gap that appears between it and the wall. If it is not more than 3 mm, then the disadvantage is eliminated without special construction work.
• Find a narrow lining. It should be the same thickness as the gap. Put it on the desktop of a saw or miter box. The lining will lift one side of the casing during washing down.
• Press the patch bar as tightly as possible to the work table, cut the end at an angle of 45 degrees and with a slight slope in relation to the surface. Thus, the joint of the overhead strips will be sealed and sealant will not be needed to eliminate gaps.

The situation is worse if there is a large error between the wall and the door frame. Then you will have to eliminate it in one of the following ways:

• Dismantle the wall, make a niche for the frame if the box is deeper than the wall surface. To do this, attach the overhead strips to the box, draw lines along the wall along them. Then, using a grinder, cut this line, make grooves around the entire perimeter of the door. Constantly check their depth. If the niche turns out to be deeper than necessary, seal it with a cement mortar.
• Correct the deficiency with a planer if the purchased planks of wood are too thick.

Installation of finishes is a troublesome business, but you can’t sacrifice anything to create home comfort.

". Continuing the theme of the door, it will not be superfluous to describe examples of stuffing the casing onto the box.
I think a lot of people find this job pretty easy.
But believe me - this is not always and not entirely true. As in any other work, there are nuances. Of course, stuffing the casing is no more difficult than, say, or brickwork. But everything is smooth, you need to know something in order to cut it off correctly, attach it beautifully and not spoil the product.
In this article I will give a few examples of how I customize and install the platband on door frame in different situations.

Trim fit and installation

The procedure for marking and installing the platband.

Example #1.
✓Mode with an electric miter saw mode three bars (two long and one short) at an angle of 45°. In this case, the length of two long architraves is fixed, i.e. in required size, and the length of the upper transverse (short) is cut off with a margin.
For a 600 mm wide door, I cut the transverse trim strip 800 mm long, for a 700 mm door I cut 900 mm, for 800→1000 mm, for 900→1100 mm.
We need this stock to adjust the corners at the junction of the transverse with the right and left trim strips.
note that the reserve must be made necessarily in order to prevent marriage in work.
It's better when it is.
✓ We bait the cut-out racks on the left and right with decorative carnations, stepping back 7-10 mm from the inner edge of the box, if this is the side - where the hinges (canopies) are located. On the side where there are no loops, you can not indent.
✓ Then we take a short transverse bar and try to join the left corner. If the angle does not converge, then we cut or grind until there is an exact pairing.
✓After fitting the left side, mark the right side.
✓ To do this, slip the transverse bar under the right one and simply draw a cut line with a pencil or a regular felt-tip pen.
Advice.
For marking, do not use a moisture-resistant marker, because you will not erase the drawn lines.
But that's not all.
✓I also cut off the right side behind the drawn line with a small margin (15-20 mm) to fit.
✓Cut off, attached, looked at the accuracy of the connection, cut it if necessary.
And, only, then I finally cut next to the line, i.e. the drawn line remains. I just erase it.
✓After everything is cut and fitted, you can finally fix the platbands.
You can attach the casing to the box with “liquid nails” glue, or you can also use small decorative carnations. I am more inclined to the second - more reliable.
This method can be considered the classic and most common.
But there are times when this method is not entirely suitable.
I'll explain why.
Example #2.
Let's say the door unit is installed in narrow corridor, as a rule, this is the entrance to the kitchen or pantry. The width of the corridor is slightly larger than the width of the box (loot).
In this case, there is no necessary space for fitting the upper trim strip.
What to do and how to adjust the mating angles in this case?
✓ In this case, first I cut it to size and fill the trim strip on top of the box above the door.
✓ I cut at an angle of 45 ° the left trim and the right one, but until I cut it to length, which is called end-to-end, but again I make a margin of a couple of centimeters to fit.
✓After the corners are adjusted, I cut to size and attach finally.
Example #3.
In cases where one of the racks of the door frame fits snugly against the wall and needs to be ennobled with a casing. It turns out that a whole platband 70 mm wide does not fit.

He just hits the wall.
In order for it to still fit, it simply needs to be reduced in width. Usually this size of the trimmed casing is 25-65 mm.
✓You can reduce with this electric machine.

✓If the architraves do not fit very well in the corners, then it can be adjusted a little with a belt sander.

Example number 4.
There are still situations when, after tiling the walls in the toilet and bathroom, the depth of the openings increases. And I want, without changing the old door block so that the platband is on both sides.
✓To do this, we add a rail (addition) to the door frame, and only then we fill the casing.

I specially painted the additional bars and the casing in a different color to make it easier to see.

But in order not to see this “multi-layer cake” from the added rails, you can close it with strips of fiberboard.

Then putty and paint over.
Fiberboard does not allow the spliced ​​box to diverge and it will look like a solid product.
You can, of course, make slopes with tiles. It's for someone who likes it.
Example number 5.
Perhaps, most difficult method.
The situation is quite common, when due to improper installation of the door block in the opening or improper plastering of the walls, the box does not stand flush with the wall, but is slightly (5-15 mm) recessed inside.
In this case, you can cut and attach the trim, but it eventually turns it out, and the mating angles diverge.
Here you can go three ways.

• Remove the wallpaper, cut down the plaster and refinish the wall or reinstall the doors.

But this is destruction and prolonged haze.

• Fill the additional bar and thereby expand the depth of the door frame.

But this is not possible when the drop is from the opening side of the door.

• The mode of the corners of the casing is my way.

Just under the trim to be cut off, you need to put a bar with a thickness equal to the size of the difference in the wall with the door block.

Then the corners will converge as they should. This I guarantee you.
Example number 6.
There are times when the room where the door is installed is not rectangular, but a trapezoid. Usually it is in old Khrushchev houses: a toilet or a bathroom. There, one side of the wall is bevelled.

Inside such a room, 2 corners are deployed, so there is no point in cutting corners at 45 ° - they will not converge.
In this case, the platband must be cut, as shown in the photo.

There are no other options.
As a result, we get.

That seems to be all in this small article.
As you noticed, I cut corners on miter saw, which I recommend to you if you are doing this professionally. If not, then you can cut with a conventional hacksaw for wood and a miter box or a manual, non-electric miter saw.
By the way, I have plans for the future to record a video of how I cut any angle (from 0º to 360º) on the simplest electric miter saw. So subscribe to the site news.