Are seedlings of early cabbage frosts. Cabbage seedlings and frosts - what a gardener needs to know. Why cabbage does not tie a head

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Choosing a variety for growing seedlings of cabbage

It is better to plant seedlings in the ground either early in the morning or late in the evening, and best of all in cloudy weather.

  • After each watering (1 time per week), you need to loosen the soil to a depth of 8 cm.
  • seedlings early varieties cabbages are planted in the ground in early May.
  • Cabbage loves watering. After planting cabbage seedlings, it is watered every 2-3 days at the rate of 8 liters of water per 1 m². In the future, the cabbage is watered once a week, 13 liters per 1 m². Early cabbage needs watering in June, late - in August, when laying forks. After each watering (1 time per week), you need to loosen the soil to a depth of 8 cm.

Important

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The soil must be structured - neither heavy clay nor light sandy substrate will do. They cannot ensure the normal development of the root system, as they are poor in nutrients, do not pass or retain water well, and dry out slowly or quickly.

The solution should be 1-2%. If the concentration is done more, harm can be done. To prepare a 1% solution, add 1 gram of potassium permanganate to half a glass of water (100 ml). The solution has a thick, almost black color. If it is not possible to accurately measure 1 gram, use the volumetric method. One teaspoon of potassium permanganate without a top is dissolved in three glasses of water (600 ml). A topless teaspoon is when the excess of the substance is removed with the flat side of the knife, if you run it along the top of the spoon.

potatoes

Most often on the shelves of supermarkets you can find broccoli with green and purple heads, although breeders have bred cabbage and green, and bluish, purple, and white. Cooking mainly uses two main types of broccoli. The first, most familiar type of broccoli is an umbrella-shaped head of cabbage with a thickened stem and many green inflorescences tightly adjacent to each other at its end. The second type of broccoli is asparagus or Italian. This cabbage is made up of many thin, long flower stalks with small inflorescences at the ends. The shoots resemble asparagus in taste and appearance, and the heads are looser than those of cauliflower.


Cabbage must be planted at a great distance from each other. There should be at least 50-70 cm between individual plants. But, of course, I never go to the garden bed with a ruler. I propose this method. Before making any plantings, I mark future landing sites directly in the garden in advance. For cabbage, I do it this way: with a scoop or chopper blade, I draw a zigzag line on the ground.


A modern table is unthinkable without cabbage. But on the one hand, it is quite difficult to grow it - many gardeners have problems with cabbage seedlings. On the other hand, there is nothing special and difficult. There are secrets of growing cabbage seedlings and planting them. If you want to grow beautiful cabbage yourself, then first of all you need to think about seeds, about those varieties that will provide you with the result that will satisfy your wishes.

The soil for planting seedlings must also be prepared in advance, dug up, fertilized and leveled with a rake.

20 days after planting, the cabbage is spudded. Repeat hilling after another 10 days.

Landing preparation

​: If you reuse the container, disinfect it before each sowing. Will it be boiling water, bleach solution or something else - everyone decides for himself. I keep seedling cassettes in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes, then rinse under running water and that's it.

How to care for seedlings


The soil must be nutritious, disinfected, with an acidity index in the range of pH 5.8-6.5. Should not be wet or dry. Must be crafted from high peat

​Seed treatment mode:​

. Now the choice of turnip varieties in our stores is not too rich. But all over the world it is quite popular (especially in Asia), so there, in addition to the traditional yellow turnip for us, there are varieties with white, green, pink, red and purple skin and white or yellow flesh (the more yellow the flesh, the more carotene). Recently, seeds of foreign selection have begun to appear on our market. Turnip varieties also differ in terms of ripening: early - 45-60 days from germination to technical maturity, medium - from 60 to 90, late - more than 90 days. In addition, there are varieties of lettuce turnip (kabu) and leaf turnip (kabuna or komatsuna). The first has edible "both tops and roots" - both leaves and root crops with a milder taste than vegetable turnips. The second one has only leaves.


In our garden plots, broccoli is not so common, although the culture is unpretentious in growing: 17 - 25 ° C is the best temperature for the growth and development of cabbage. She is not afraid of frosts in the spring, is practically not susceptible to pests, the possibility of collecting several crops during the season. Broccoli is a cold-resistant plant that can withstand sub-zero temperatures down to -8 degrees C. Undemanding to heat, broccoli at 25 degrees C and above dramatically reduces yield, both in quantity and quality.​

In those places where the tops of the zigzag line are, I will make holes and plant seedlings. This is the most The right way, at which the ideal distance is automatically obtained.​

First of all, answer very important questions before buying seeds:

In the case of growing seedlings in separate cups, no special preparation is required before planting: the plants should be moderately watered so that the clod of earth is easily removed from the glass and does not crumble when excavated.

20 days after planting cabbage seedlings in the ground, plants are fed with liquid


Landing pattern

Cabbage seeds before sowing need

I fill the containers with the mixture, moisten it well, then make a small indentation with a toothpick, put a seed in it and cover it with soil with a toothpick.

Soils are commercially available, which can be divided into wet and dry. Wet before use do not require prior preparation. However, due to constant humidity, mold fungi often develop on them, which oppress seedlings. If the soil smells of mold, you should not use it. Also, in moist soil, if it is poorly disinfected, eggs and larvae of soil pests may be present.

How to form beds

Celery, onions, lettuce, radish, tomato, physalis, peas, beans, corn - 1% solution, 45 minutes;

Planting seedlings in the ground


Of course, this vegetable is useful for both adults and children. Turnip pulp contains a lot of potassium and iron, vitamins C, PP, B1, B2, carotene, trace elements and even rare in plants succinic acid. In addition, turnips are low in calories. And it is well stored - almost all winter at a temperature of 0-1 ° C. And in winter, its juice with honey can be used to treat coughs in children. It, like radish, has phytoncidal properties, but at the same time it does not have such a pungent smell and the taste is much more pleasant.

The Eastern Mediterranean is the birthplace of broccoli. Two thousand years ago, the ancient Romans in their gardens set aside allotments for both ordinary leafy cabbage and broccoli. It was from them that Byzantium learned about this one-year vegetable plant cabbage family. And only in the XVI century, broccoli became popular in Europe. The Italian "brocco" means a shoot or branch, which is where the name of this cabbage came from.

So, at each vertex of our markup we dig holes. It must be dug deep enough, about 15-18 cm deep, despite the fact that our seedlings are still small. Why is that? We will “charge” these wells with useful substances necessary for the growth of cabbage.

You only want to use cabbage in the summer, make vitamin salads out of it, for example;

If seedlings are grown using the potless method, the task becomes more complicated. Plants must be dug out with a clod of earth and placed in a suitable dish. And you also need to reduce the time between extraction and planting seedlings.

mullein

Cabbage seeds are sown for seedlings in the substrate in rows with a distance between plants - 1 cm, between grooves - 3 cm.

prepare


I cover the crops with a film and put in a warm place. Until shoots appear, the air temperature should be + 25 ... + 28 ° С. After that, we reduce the temperature to + 22 ... + 25 ° C during the day and + 20 ° C at night.​

It is better to purchase soils prepared using biofermentation technology - soils "Avtep", "Land for seedlings" VAKZO and others, or prepared by worms.


Eggplant, pepper, carrot, cabbage, parsnip, dill, pumpkin - 2% solution, 20 minutes.

February is in the yard. It's time to open the gardening season - start growing seedlings of vegetable crops. Already now you can sow celery, peppers, eggplant. But do not rush with tomatoes, this crop grows faster than the same pepper, so its sowing time is the month of March. If you do not live in the countryside and you do not have an equipped greenhouse, do not despair, you can grow full-fledged seedlings in a city apartment. To do this, you need to know and comply with some conditions.​

If we talk about the best varieties of broccoli, then it is worth noting the early ripe "Tonus" and the mid-ripening "Vitamin".


We add humus to the hole, you can even use fresh manure - all this will benefit the future harvest, since we will not plant seedlings in it. By adding fresh manure or humus, we form the bottom layer of the hole. In quantity, this should be equal to the volume of a 200 gram plastic cup without a top. Then I add wood ash on top - the amount is approximately the volume of a matchbox. Then it is very important to sprinkle everything lightly on top with earth. Not a thick layer - usually a handful of earth is enough to cover manure, ash.


Do you want to ferment it;

It is advisable to plant seedlings in cloudy weather or in the evening. If peat pots are used, then the plants are planted with them.


Planting scheme for seedlings of early varieties of cabbage: 45x25 cm.

. Dry seeds for 15 min. placed in hot water (50 ° C), then for 1 min. cold, then they are placed in a solution of trace elements for 12 hours, washed clean water and placed in the refrigerator for 24 hours. After pre-planting, the cabbage seeds are dried so that they do not stick to the fingers and sown.

When the seedlings have 3-4 true leaves, the cups in which we sowed them become small - the actively developing root system has braided earthen clod. I carefully transfer the peppers into pots with a volume of 0.5-0.7 liters, in which they grow with me before planting in open ground.​

Specialized soils for seedlings, for example, "Rostok", "For Tomato", "For Cucumber" and others, are prepared from the same components and differ only in the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which does not give a tangible gain when growing seedlings, since the process of plant nutrition is completely dependent on man. It is impossible to grow full-fledged seedlings, relying only on the fertilizer contained in the soil.

The water temperature is room temperature, after disinfection, be sure to rinse the seeds in running water!!

1. Selection and calibration of seeds.​

Variety "Tone"

The next step is watering the hole. This condition is mandatory, since we plant moisture-loving cabbage. Pour at least a liter of water into each well. For future heads, it is very important that the planting holes are well watered, as watering from above alone will not be enough.

Or maybe you have a basement or other storage where you want to store it until the next harvest.

Immediately after planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, and the soil around them is mulched with peat, humus, or at least dry soil.


Plants and soil in the garden can be dusted with wood

Planting scheme for seedlings of late varieties of cabbage: 35x60 cm.

​Fertilizers

Illumination of pepper seedlings is a must, it is very demanding on the level of illumination. If the seedlings turn pale leaves and stems, the internodes become thinner and lengthen, it means that it lacks light and, as a result, nutrition. I don’t have a phytolamp yet, I get by with a fluorescent one, turning it on from 9 am to 8 pm.​

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Dry-pressed briquettes are also on sale - "Torfolin", "Violet", "Natural fertile soil" and others. They need to be pre-soaked. So, for example, from a briquette "Torfolin A" weighing 750 grams, about 6 liters of loose soil are obtained. But in its pure form, it is better not to use these soils, but be sure to add sand to them at the rate of 2 parts of soil and 1 part of sand. In the Fiala soil, the concentration of fertilizers is high, it is better to use it for picking seedlings, and not for sowing seeds.

3. Soaking seeds, treatment with biological products.​

Varieties of broccoli

None of us is immune from regrading and buying low-quality seed. Also, we cannot be 100% sure of the quality of our own grown seeds. Purchase varieties and hybrids that have already been tested on your own experience well-known firms, but don't be afraid to experiment with new crops, varieties and producers.​

- early maturity. 60-89 days - the period from full shoots to the first harvest. The outlet of this variety is quite compact, and the heads themselves good quality: central up to 150g, side by 20g. The color of the heads is dark green, with a bluish-bluish tinge.

There is another secret. If the weather is sunny, then it is better to leave the spilled holes under the sun, let it take an hour and a half, so that the manure inside the hole begins to emit heat, ignites spontaneously, as they said before. The holes will get warm. This is very important.​

There are countless varieties of this vegetable. There is super-early cabbage, which already ripens by the end of June, forming tight, juicy heads of cabbage, there are varieties that ripen in the middle of summer, and there are varieties that are harvested only at the end of October - they are intended for late storage. In addition to white cabbage, there is cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Beijing, red cabbage, Savoy, broccoli, kohlrabi, decorative. The choice of variety and type depends on your needs. Definitely after the threat of night frosts has been removed (this is somewhere (+1 - +5)​

ash Planting depth

Agricultural technology

A plot for cabbage has been prepared since autumn, introducing

Water for irrigation must be warmed up to room temperature and let it stand in an open container for a day. Ideally, rain water. Water as needed without letting the soil dry out. In small containers, the soil loses moisture faster than in large ones, so check them every day, the pepper root system does not tolerate the stress of drying out the soil. Keep the humidity in the room at 60-70%.​

Broccoli Care

Be sure to check all purchased soils for acidity and, if necessary, neutralize with dolomite flour.

Harvesting broccoli

It is best to soak the seeds in melted or rain water. However, in the cities, neither snow nor rain water collection is not recommended due to contamination. You can freeze tap water - so we get rid of salts, and water acquires the ability to stimulate germination processes.

Carefully select all hollow, damaged, malformed seeds. It is best to do this not by eye, but by the method of calibration, if there are a lot of seeds. A small number of them are selected manually. Variety "Vitamin" Now you can plant seedlings that we have grown in a cold nursery. But we will plant it for a reason.

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings is the same for any species. Its seeds resemble radish seeds, yet they belong to the same cruciferous family, but a little smaller.

Moscow region - frost is considered until June 15. But we must look back at the heavenly office

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Seedlings of garden turnip | Grow a garden!

(1 cup per 1 m²) from pests and as a top dressing.

Cabbage seeds are buried in the soil to a depth of 1 cm. lime substances Once upon a time, at the dawn of my passion for the garden, I read an article about whether pepper seedlings need top dressing. The author was definitely a specialist in this field - earlier it was strict with this, publications in journals were subjected to strict verification for compliance with reality. So, he talked about the fact that pepper seedlings are absolutely not needed for feeding. The main thing is to provide her with nutritious soil, warmth and necessarily lighting.

​If you add a microbiological preparation of the Baikal, Revival or Shining series to the soil, this will enrich it with beneficial microflora and make the growth and development of seedlings more comfortable. Soaking significantly accelerates the germination of crops such as carrots, celery, parsley, parsnips , dill, onion, pepper. In a 5% solution of table salt (5 g per 100 ml, i.e. half a glass of water at room temperature), you can calibrate the seeds of tomato, pepper, eggplant. Cucumber seeds are calibrated in a 3% solution. Dry seeds are poured into the solution and mixed thoroughly to remove air from their surface. Leave for 3-5 minutes - suitable seeds will sink to the bottom, and unusable ones will remain on the surface. Seeds that have settled to the bottom - fit - are washed from salt and dried. It is important to remember that fresh seeds are calibrated more accurately than those that have lain for several years and have had time to dry out - medium ripeness. The period from mass shoots to use is 72-90 days. The mass of the main inflorescence is up to 250 g, with a fairly dense head. Lateral heads - small, up to five centimeters in diameter, appear 12 days after the cut of the main inflorescence.This is how seedlings should be removed from the pot. Cabbage is grown mainly through seedlings. This is an extremely cold-loving, light-loving plant. Home microclimate for her is absolute nonsense. She simply cannot live in such a microclimate. The maximum that she can do at home is to climb, but she will immediately lie down, the color will turn pale green, then yellow, and then she will disappear. Cabbage seedlings cannot be grown at home. Cold and light are important for her. Anyway, the planting of these plants must be covered, we have frosts on June 11. Cabbage varieties​Problems​

. Fertilizers for cabbage are applied in the spring: It is the lack of lighting that makes it impossible for the plant to assimilate nutrients from the soil. That is, no matter how rich the soil is in humus, if there is little light, the pepper sprout will be frail. His theory was so logical that I took it as a rule that I still follow. But if you already decide to feed, then use one thing: complex chlorine-free preparations or biofertilizers. The use of preparations of this type becomes mandatory if the soil has been sterilized.

Seed soaking rules:

Seeds of peas, beans, beans are calibrated in ordinary cold water, removing all floating seeds.

Broccoli is good to plant after legumes, pumpkins, onions. For this plant, choose light loamy soils rich in humus with sufficient topsoil and moisture. In autumn, at the end of the season, they prepare the land for cabbage: digging is carried out to the depth of the fertile layer, fertilized with mineral and organic substances and one square meter area contribute 3-5 kg ​​of compost or manure, 15 g of potassium chloride and 40 g of superphosphate. Fertilize the soil in spring ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g - per 1 sq. m. Fertilizers are applied before planting seedlings. During the period of the ovary of the heads, the plant is more demanding on phosphorus and nitrogen. It is not superfluous to recall that the land where the seedlings are planned to be planted must be cleared of weeds.

There is another secret - Kornevin (Heteroauxin), a root formation stimulator. Kornevin will help to make sure that any seedlings take root 100%, since damage to the root system is inevitable when planting seedlings. Kornevin will reduce all these troubles to a minimum. Open the bag with Kornevin, keep it ready. Seedlings should be removed from the pot as shown in the photo.

Therefore, cabbage seedlings need to be grown, roughly speaking, almost on the street. It is necessary to make the so-called cold nursery. How to make it? Very simple.​

We have a chance of freezing right up to the first decade of June. if you plant so late, then you will not wait for the harvest, since frost is also possible in August. I plant in the second half of May, but in a greenhouse. And if in open ground, then you need to plant it under a film (peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers).

Early ripe (90-120 days) varieties and hybrids of white cabbage: Gribovsky 147, Solo, June, Start, Athlete, Transfer, Parel, Kazachok, Polar K-206, Malachite, Eaton, Kraft. The last four varieties and hybrids are suitable for sourdough. Mid-season (130-150 days) varieties and hybrids of cabbage: Rinda, Slava 1305, Pegasus, Rodolfo, Nadezhda, Bronco. Mid-late (150-170 days) varieties and hybrids of white cabbage: Mother-in-law, Krautman, Dobrovodskaya, Sibiryachka-60, Druzhny, Midor, Megaton, Amager 611, Belorusskaya 455, Zimovka 1474. Late varieties (160-180 days): Cade, Krumont , Galaxy, Kolobok.​

Diseases and pests of cabbage

organic matter

And even better - try to do without top dressing. What if your seedlings won’t even notice that they didn’t feed them? 5. Limiting factors when growing seedlings.​ Seeds are soaked after disinfection;

2. Seed disinfection.​

  • Broccoli can be grown as seedlings or pre-prepared seeds, followed by thinning. If you wish to receive early harvest cabbage, use the appropriate varieties and plant broccoli in seedlings. In mid-April, the seeds are sown in pots and placed in a heated greenhouse. After 50-55 days, early varieties will have 5 true leaves. Later varieties can be grown without cups by sowing the seeds in a nutrient mixture. The end of May is a great time to transplant seedlings into the ground. Plants are placed 40 pieces per 10 sq. m. When sowing seeds in the ground, use a 70x50 plant placement scheme. You can sow broccoli seeds, like cauliflower seeds, before winter. Carefully separate one plant from anotherYou take an ordinary box, you can even use a balcony box for flowers.
  • I always plant on June 15, when there are no more frostsIn general, it is cold-resistant, but depending on how cold it is, it can be planted and covered with lutrasil according to the weather​: black leg, keel, mucous bacteriosis, false powdery mildew(peronosporosis), cruciferous fleas, cabbage fly, snails, slugs, aphids, cabbage scoops and whites.
  • - 1 bucket per 1 m² and in each well 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, 2 cups of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea. 40-60 days after germination (depending on the variety), your seedlings, surrounded by tireless care and vigilant attention, already ready to move into open ground, a greenhouse, or a heated greenhouse. These factors include lack of light, sharp temperature fluctuations, improper sowing, uneven watering, insufficient nutrition, lack of living space.
  • The volume of water should be 50-100 times the volume of seeds. Do not be afraid to immerse the seeds in water completely - when they swell, they do not need air, they will not suffocate; 80% of vegetable diseases are transmitted with seeds, and only 20% through the soil. That is why it is impossible to do without disinfection. Only if the package indicates that the seeds have already been disinfected, and if the seeds are coated, they do not need to be disinfected. After planting broccoli, be sure to loosen the row spacing. Systematically remove weeds, 20 days after planting, carry out the first hilling of cabbage. For the formation of adventitious roots after 10 days, repeat hilling. Broccoli loves watering, top dressing. Once every seven days, after watering, loosen the soil by more than 7 cm. 21 days after planting the seedlings, carry out the first top dressing with mullein. For 10 liters of water, you need 0.5 liters of mullein and 1 teaspoon of urea. For 1 square meter use up to 5 liters of solution. 14 days after the first feeding, carry out the second: for 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska. Use up to 6 liters of solution per 1 sq. m.

Now you should separate the individual seedlings from each other. To do this, lightly press on a clod of earth, entangled in roots, divide it first into two parts, and then smaller ones. Each time, a lump of earth will unite less and less plants.

Container for cabbage seedlings

Cucumbers in the Moscow region should be sown when the yellow acacia blooms. Checked, the omen has never failed. It is very dangerous when you just planted seedlings, and frost at night. Many diseases and pests will help to cope

In the phase of two true leaves, the first foliar top dressing is done

  • How was your relationship with growing pepper seedlings? Any difficulties or secrets? Share!​
  • When seedlings appear, it is necessary to illuminate the seedlings for the first three days

Stir the seeds several times;

The easiest way -

​Don't miss the moment of cutting off the central head of the broccoli. It must be removed before blooming, when the inflorescences are not sufficiently closed, in diameter from about 8-25 cm and weighing 400-600 g each.

When separating seedlings, be sure to discard wilted, outwardly diseased, too small plants.

Sown seeds should be well watered

  • At the beginning of June.
  • Zaporozhye. Freezing is even useful for late cabbage.
  • folk methods
  • seedlings
  • I want to talk about the most common turnip. Yes, yes, do not be surprised that we are not talking about some exotic vegetable, but about Russian turnips, which began to be grown 40 centuries ago.​
  • around the clock
  • Water is periodically changed if it turns yellow or brown;

​Heat treatment​​The first guideline should be the ripening time of a particular variety. It is usually indicated on the bag of seeds of this variety. So we will learn about the ripening time from the instructions. However weather have little effect on this period. So when it approaches, we begin to observe the plant. When the inflorescences are formed, they must be cut off immediately. Better to cut earlier than late. Lightly sprinkle the roots with Kornevin powder

Fill it with soil. Soaking, warming cabbage seeds is not necessary. You can sow them in rows, or you can scatter. It's not that important. After sowing, it is important to lightly sprinkle the seeds with earth, trample lightly and be sure to pour abundantly on top. Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant, so there will be no harm from abundant watering. In the suburbs, this is the beginning of June. It can be more accurately determined if there is a pond nearby. If yellow water lilies have surfaced, then there will be no frost. But frost can be covered with a non-woven fabric. I planted the early one in deep holes, covered it with hay on top.

cabbage. To do this, half a tablet of microelements or a half teaspoon of complex fertilizers with microelements is diluted in 1 liter of water, seedlings are sprayed with this solution.

Sowing in two terms

using phytolamps or fluorescent lamps daylight. The distance from the lamp to the plants at first is 20-25 cm, as the seedlings grow, the lamps are raised. Illumination is carried out on average within 3-5 weeks. Direct sunlight can cause leaf burns.​

soaking time depends on the rate of swelling. So, 5-7 hours are enough for pea seeds, cabbage, tomato, cucumber seeds swell in 18 hours, onion and celery seeds are soaked for at least 36 hours;

, i.e. warming up in hot water. It is carried out in a thermos, placing the seeds in linen (gauze) bags. Remember that with the full disinfection mode, up to 20-30% of the seeds may lose their germination. This does not mean that you have overheated the seeds. You did everything right - weaker, less viable seeds died.​

Pay attention!

Gently press the soil around the seedling

This box of sown seeds must not be left at home. It is necessary to bring it to the dacha or take it out to the garden. If you still have snow, then shovel it, put a box with sown seeds on the cold ground. The place should be open, warmed by the sun. Install arcs from above, stretch the film. This is how your seedbed will stand until germination. Shoots will appear in ten to twelve days.

  1. Cabbage is the most cold-resistant crop, although in Siberia we have to cover it at night. Cucumbers are less frost-resistant, we grow them in a warm ridge (dung), and on top we cover them first with acrylic, and then also with a film. Tomatoes are thermophilic plants that can die from frost even in a greenhouse. Peppers and eggplants generally cannot stand the cold, they shower color and then come to their senses for a long time.
  2. not afraid

Many plants in joint landings able to take care of their neighbors and

Our ancestors, long before the appearance of potatoes, called turnips "second bread", it grew in every Russian garden. Turnip ripens quickly, gives large root-fruits, is well stored all winter. To do this, we put a layer of dry sand on the bottom of large boxes, then a layer of turnips, again sand, etc. The top layer should be sand. I dig a turnip bed in early spring, as soon as the soil dries. It cannot be grown after cabbage, daikon, radish, radish, because they have common diseases and pests. Turnip works best after onions, tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers. I dig the earth deeply - on 2 bayonets of a shovel, so that the earth is soft and loose. I add humus from a cucumber greenhouse. If the earth is heavy, the roots will grow ugly, tasteless. I sow seeds in two terms: in April (for summer use) and in the second decade of July (for winter storage). Turnips are not afraid of the cold, they never shoot, but they love to loosen the soil often, then the roots grow by leaps and bounds. Her seeds are small, I plant them to a depth of 2 cm. The distance between the grooves is 20 cm, between the plants - 15 cm. As soon as shoots appear, I water the bed well and sprinkle with ashes so that fleas do not harm, which are very "hungry" for tender leaves turnips

Avoid drafts, water only with warm water (water temperature should be 2-3 degrees higher than air temperature). The container with seedlings should not stand directly on the windowsill (especially if it is stone), pallets and stands must be used.

Do not soak the seeds in a solution of fertilizers, ash, saline solutions, since salts inhibit germination;

​Water heating mode: In hot weather, the period suitable for harvesting, that is, between the appearance of inflorescences and flowering, can be only a couple of days. After a couple of days, flowers appear, and the harvest is lost.

Before placing the cabbage seedling in the hole, sprinkle the roots with Kornevin powder, a small amount, just powder a little. Put the plant in the hole. Hold with one hand, and sprinkle with the other to the cotyledon leaves. Then lightly press the earth around the plant with your palms down so that the roots fall into the right place and there is no void in the ground around them.

If you already have a greenhouse installed, then bring the nursery inside, additional arcs with a film will no longer be needed. An additional greenhouse will need to be made only for cauliflower seedlings, as it is afraid of frost. And white, Brussels, Savoy, others do not need additional shelter, they endure frosts down to -5 ° C.

  1. Among all the seedlings listed, only one cabbage is not afraid of frosts, and then short-term (up to -3), frosts have a detrimental effect on the rest of the seedlings. Cabbage is not afraid of frosts. When I plant, I always cover with half-liter glasses of yogurt. And the moisture is retained longer and the sun does not burn them, so they are accepted better and they are not afraid of frost. I have already planted and growing well. Although there were frosts down to -1. Protect
  2. good predecessors
  3. Salt - good feeding
  4. It is very important to sow the seeds on the optimal guinea. both too deep and small seeding leads to a delay in germination, weakening of seedlings. The sowing depth is calculated based on the size of the seeds. The sowing depth depends on the seed diameter. Sowing is carried out to a depth of two seed diameters, that is, if the diameter (but not the length!) of the seed is 0.5 cm, sowing is carried out to a depth of 1 cm. Small seeds are sown superficially, sprinkling with a layer of sand no thicker than 0.5 cm.
  5. After soaking, the seeds are either sown immediately, slightly dried to flowability, or put on germination.
  6. cabbage crops (cabbage, radish, turnip, swede, etc.) +52-​

I usually do this. Every two days I go around the garden and cut off all fairly large heads. If the head still managed to bloom, then it still needs to be cut off. Although she herself is lost to us, there is a chance to get a crop on lateral shoots on this plant.

Cabbage loves water

​If you have stationary greenhouse, for example, glass, then the seeds can be sown simply in the soil of the greenhouse without any nursery, since the earth there is very well warmed up by the sun in early spring.

There are tomato varieties that can withstand temperatures down to minus 1 - 2 degrees, but provided that the tomatoes grow in a greenhouse, this is the Sinbad variety, the Dina yellow tomato variety.

If you have already recovered after the transplant, went into growth, then you should not be afraid anymore, but at the transplant stage it may suffer

seeds

Good precursors for cabbage can be green manure, carrots, potatoes, onions, legumes, cereals, cucumbers.

Pre-sowing seed treatment

When the leaves reach a height of about 10 cm, I pour salt between the rows. For a bed 3 m long and 1 m 20 cm wide, I spend 300 g, no more. I water well so that the salt dissolves and absorbs. This is a good top dressing for turnips. And during the entire growing season, once every 10 days I water the plants with a weak solution chicken manure. It is important to ensure that the plants do not thicken each other, otherwise the root crops turn out to be ugly, "wiry", bitter in taste. I spill turnips abundantly, I soak the ground well, because turnips have long roots. It is also important to dig up root crops for food, overgrown, tasteless and juicy. Pulling the turnip out of the ground, I immediately cut off the tops, the tap root, put it in the barn to dry, trying not to damage the root crops.

The soil

Do not overdry or overmoisten the soil - young shoots and seedlings are very sensitive to both lack and excess of water.

It is useful to use biologically active substances. There are now about two hundred

Planting containers

The stems are also used for food, so we cut off part of the stem up to 20 cm. We collect and cut the stem early in the morning. This helps to keep cut broccoli fresh for a long time. After that, heads 4-6 cm in diameter, weighing 150-200 g, grow on the side stepchildren, which are also collected and used for cooking different dishes. The shelf life of broccoli in the refrigerator is no more than a week, then the heads quickly turn yellow. In order for broccoli to please you with its taste, do not overcook it. It is enough to blanch the inflorescences, and not to boil in boiling water. Blanched cabbage is good in sauces for pasta or casseroles, and steamed cabbage is good for toppings and salads.

Cabbage seedlings planted So, a cold hotbed is main secret getting a good crop of cabbage.

Landing

When cold, eggplants shed their ovaries, and cucumbers die altogether.

I have cabbage growing in the nursery, I haven’t planted it yet. Freezes are intermittent. At night I covered with lutrasil 60 and for reliability with a film. Yesterday it was -10 at night, I survived.

Care and cultivation of cabbage

Additional lighting

bad predecessors

Watering and humidity

If you need your own seeds

top dressing

Watch for top dressing, give them fractionally, balanced in terms of the content of elements, do not exceed the concentration. A young plant consumes nutrients in smaller quantities than an adult. The lack of elements causes starvation, which, in turn, negatively affects the plant and future harvest.

, 20 minutes;

After we planted all the seedlings, we again need to water the wells well, now with plants. The amount of water for each is at least 1 liter. Water carefully, do not pour on the plant, only around it, so as not to wash it out of the ground. Water will get where it needs to - to the roots. The sooner the seedlings get water, the better. Approximately 15-20 minutes after watering, some seedlings may settle down, fall on their side. Therefore, you should again go through the garden, straighten the seedlings, adding earth to the stem. After another half an hour, it is necessary to water the seedlings again - again at least a liter per root. Wet afterwards trunk circles mulch, for example, with dry earth. This is done so that a crust does not form from the sun or wind.

shoots of cabbage

Cabbage is cold-resistant, not afraid of frost.

Cabbage can withstand frosts down to minus 8, the rest is afraid of frost! There is a true folk omen- the thistle blossomed - there will be no frosts! We have it around May 22-26, sometimes earlier, sometimes later! In your area a little later - approximately 5 - 6 days from us.​

seedling care

Cabbage, beets, tomatoes, turnips, radishes, radishes cannot be predecessors for cabbage. You can return cabbage to the garden only after 4 years.

There is nothing easier. From the July sowing, I select strong, without damage, specimens, I cut the tops not low, leaving about 10 cm, because in the future a stem with seeds will grow from the apical bud. I don’t dry the turnip, I immediately put it in a box with dry sand separately from the root crops left for eating. Seed turnips are well stored until spring, and when the snow melts, I immediately plant root crops at a distance of half a meter from each other in the garden. It is only necessary to grow different varieties of turnip for seeds away from each other so that there is no cross-pollination. Usually I plant three turnips so as not to risk: it happens that stems with unripe seeds break from the wind or some other misfortune happens. I bury the root-fruits completely, only the green part is visible from the ground. Caring for seed turnips is common: remove weeds, loosen after watering, and when the stems grow, tie them to stakes. When the seeds ripen, I manually peel them, store each variety separately in paper bags.

If the plants are crowded, they begin to compete for light, water, food, stretch out, weaken, and may die. Do not sow too thickly, pick in time, do not try to place all the plants on one windowsill.

Let's focus on three - Epin, Humat, aloe juice. The use of the first two drugs accelerates the germination process and, most importantly, reduces the sensitivity of seedlings to adverse growing conditions, increases plant resistance to diseases, triggering the protective mechanisms of the plant itself. When using aloe juice, it must be remembered that it is not suitable for all seeds. So, you can not soak the seeds in it cucurbits, onions, peppers and celery. Use it for eggplant seeds, cabbage crops, lettuce, especially good for soaking tomato seeds.​

tomato and physalis +50-

Grandfather planted a turnip. A big, big turnip has grown ... Which of us has not read this fairy tale to children? But it seems amazing vegetable and remained for many of them exclusively a fairy-tale character. Ask any child if they have tried So, our seedlings are planted. Now all care comes down to inspections and watering. So far, our seedlings do not require a large amount of nutrients. After some time (10-12 days) in your cold nursery you will see such a picture - a forest of seedlings. ​I don't know... you'd better wait until it's a little warmer!​ never again

White cabbage consists in spraying the soil with water after sowing the seeds until germination (4-5 days), while the seedling box should be indoors at 18-20 ° C. Growing seedlings of cabbage
​The best varieties If you see that the plants do not grow well, are oppressed, then do not rush to immediately water them with all kinds of stimulants. Remember - stimulants can only make life easier for the plant, but not eradicate the cause of ill health. First adjust the growing conditions.​
Soaking seeds is carried out in a solution at room temperature above + 52°C
turnip But when 6-7 true leaves grow, you can start feeding. These top dressings should mainly consist of organic fertilizers, that is, humus or manure. But, of course, now it is no longer necessary to use fresh manure, but only its solution - 1:10. This is practically all that cabbage needs, as it loves organics very much. Cabbage has very few seeds that do not have germination. It's not scary that your seeds have sprouted so often. This is fine. It tolerates thickening up to a certain stage - until the 3-4th leaf appears. Until this moment, nothing needs to be done with the seedlings - just make sure that the earth does not dry out, water it periodically. Remember that if it is + 5 ° C outside, then it can be + 20 ° C in the greenhouse, and this can cause the soil to dry out. Warm cabbage is only to the detriment
There are no previous norms and no guarantees After the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are transferred to a room with a temperature not higher than +8 ° C, otherwise the seedlings will stretch. When growing cabbage through Previously, we grew only one variety - Petrovskaya. The root-fruits of this variety are yellow, flat, have an excellent taste. Grandmother called this turnip “voshchanka” - it is well stored until spring in the underground (we don’t have a cellar - water is close). For several years we have been growing two modern varieties - Purple with a white tip (roots are round, raspberry, flesh is juicy, white with a slight bitterness, very tasty fresh, in salads) and Early Purple. In this variety, the roots have a very interesting color: they themselves are white, and the top is red. The pulp is white, very juicy. In addition to turnips, we grow rutabaga of the Wilma variety in our garden. I grow it with seedlings on a cold bed (I already wrote about this bed). Agrotechnics of rutabaga is not much different from turnips: I also dig deep into the soil. Seedlings are not afraid of light recurrent frosts, but turnip leaves are attacked by caterpillars of white butterflies. To prevent this from happening, immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, I put them near the plants thin sticks, on which I put on egg shells. They are 100 percent saving rutabaga and cabbage from caterpillars. Rutabaga is not such an early ripening crop as turnips; we harvest in September. Usually such root crops grow that the fairy tale "Turnip" is recalled - we pull out the whole family. Healthy seedlings are the key to the success of a gardener! 20°C

, 30 minutes; Or at least saw her grow. Most likely the majority will answer this question in the negative. This gap in the natural education of your own children is easy to fill. In addition to manure, there is another potent nutrient - nettle. It is necessary to collect about 5 kg of nettle, put it in a barrel, fill it with water. The nettle should sour a little. Water the plants with this water. Alternate these waterings with watering with manure solution.

Seedling picking

So, for example, you can’t grow cabbage in a greenhouse there is ice in Krasnodar... and minus 16, did you expect this?​
After 9 days, the seedlings are dived into cups 6x6 cm or 8x8 cm. Before picking, the seedlings are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. When picking, seedlings are deepened to cotyledon leaves. After picking, the containers are placed on the windowsill, for the first 3 days the temperature is maintained at 17-18 ° C. seedlings
Cabbage is a long day plant, i.e. For flowering and fruiting, daylight hours are needed, lasting more than 13 hours. With a short daylight hours (less than 12 hours), an arrow with seeds does not form. Agricultural technology and cultivation Circumstances forced me to venture on independent cultivation of pepper seedlings. When we got a land plot, I had practically no experience in gardening. Of course, I knew how to plant potatoes, sow beets and carrots. But I was afraid to think about growing pepper seedlings myself. . If the temperature is lower, bioactive substances work less efficiently.​ eggplant +50-

Sow a turnip in the garden. And first, show the fields that are yellow from flowering colza. It is the colza that is the wild progenitor of the turnip. The turnip was brought out in a very old times over four thousand years ago. Its flowers with four petals, similar to a cross, gave the name to a huge cruciferous family, in which, in addition to

These measures are enough to grow a wonderful crop.

Of course, you can already notice at this stage that some plants are stronger, taller, stronger. Most likely, these are the ones that will be planted in the garden. But so far they are all equal. You can leave everything as it is and wait for the 3-4th leaf to appear. Or you can carefully transplant some of the plants from the nursery together with a clod of earth into a separate pot. Not every plant in a separate bowl, but a bunch of plants.

You can, if you have the opportunity to look after her, cover her in the evening, if that. But I always land at this time (Middle Volga)

And the weather is preparing new surprises...

In the phase of two true leaves, the first foliar feeding of cabbage seedlings is done. To do this, dilute half a tablet of microelements or a half teaspoon of complex fertilizers with microelements in 1 liter of water, spray the seedlings with this solution. Prepare a soil mixture of peat, soddy soil and sand (1: 1: 1). Old garden soil and humus are not used, because. they may be infected with blackleg. Before sowing, the substrate is shed with a solution of potassium permanganate.

red cabbage

Familiar gardeners with experience did not advise: they said that pepper is a capricious plant, and growing its seedlings is not an easy task. I didn’t have my own experience then, I listened to the opinion of the elders, so I bought ready-made seedlings. But this did not last long.

Soaking seeds in Epin's solution.

52°C turnips

In addition, the soil around the cabbage will need to be loosened after each watering, as it loves oxygen very much.

Cabbage loves top dressing organic fertilizers, but before planting it is better not to apply fertilizer.

You have to look at the weather. after May 22, St. Nicholas of the Spring
After the seedlings take root, the temperature during the day should be 13-14 ° C, at night 10-12 ° C. Cabbage seeds germinate at +4 - +5 ° С the same as the white one. Even early-ripening varieties of cabbage reach their ripeness only 90-120 days after germination, therefore, in the North-West region, cabbage is grown only through seedlings. (​

For the first time, the sweet pepper, which was ordinary in appearance, tasted so hot that it was impossible to eat it. On the next year I bought such healthy, strong, beautiful seedlings that I was sure: this year the pepper crop will please, what heroes are going to plant! And again I failed. Seedlings lived less than a month, despite abundant watering, shading from the midday sun and daily loosening of the soil. She gradually turned pale, then withered and withered. Well, a negative experience is still an experience, but since then I have been growing pepper seedlings myself. And you know, in fact, everything turned out to be not as difficult and scary as it seemed to me. 2 drops of Epin are dissolved in half a glass of water (100 ml), the liquid is mixed. Processing time - 18 hours at a temperature of +23-30°C with occasional stirring, 25 minutes

​,​​And you will also need to spud. But this is already when the heads of cabbage begin to spin. Then it will begin to rise above the surface of the earth, it will have a leg. So that the cabbage does not collapse, you will need to rake up the ground to it. This plant has a very interesting feature - it is better to transplant it into the ground earlier, with the full presence of 1-2 true leaves, when the 3-4th leaves are just appearing. Well, as a last resort, when the 3rd-4th leaves have already grown, but not later. Since at the same time you can’t get large beautiful heads of cabbage, let them ripen later. This pattern has long been noticed, but why it happens is a mystery. Apparently, this is due to the energy of the environment.​

I don’t know, in my country house in the open field, the color has been growing for almost two weeks, it has begun. But we don’t have return frosts. at the end of May, but you also need to look at the weather Seedlings should be watered regularly when the soil dries out with water at room temperature.

discussion of the features of growing vegetable crops

​Earlier, when there were no computers, information had to be collected literally bit by bit, to pass on read tips and secrets to each other. They planted mainly their seeds, collected from the largest fruits. How could I have dreamed of such beauties in my garden before?

Soaking seeds in a solution of potassium or sodium humate.

beets +48-

radish, radish, watercress, mustard

But most importantly, do not forget to water it. It is better to overfill than underfill.​

Cabbage seedlings are usually planted in open ground 30 days after germination.

Cabbage calmly tolerates small frosts, It has been growing in my suburbs for a long time. Not early, but colored and broccoli

In our South Urals, frosts can be expected until June 14, in the Moscow Region about the same. But it’s not in vain that a non-woven covering material was invented - plant a month earlier in the exhaust gas and cover it under the arcs. And if you plant tomatoes and cucumbers after the end of the threat of frost, you can’t wait for any harvest!

Two weeks before planting seedlings of white cabbage in open ground, it is hardened. To harden seedlings, they are placed on a balcony or in a greenhouse with a temperature of +5 ° C during the day, and at night they must be brought into the room with 10-12 ° C.

Seeds of late varieties of cabbage are sown for seedlings on March 10-20 or in April directly into the ground under the film.

It’s easier for current novice gardeners: you don’t know what seeds are needed - read about what types there are, what they are valued for, how to avoid mistakes when choosing seeds, what rules will help to make right choice which producers experienced vegetable growers consider reliable. The best form of humate is ballast-free humate from peat. Prepare a 0.01% working solution from the mother liquor. A 1% stock solution - 1 gram of powder is diluted in 100 ml of water (half a cup). Stored in the refrigerator. A 0.01% working solution is obtained by diluting 1 ml of stock solution in 100 ml of water. Processing time - 24 hours at a solution temperature of +27-28°C with occasional stirring. 50°C

and enough cabbage unpretentious plant, but there may be various problems. They usually appear when the heads are already large enough and can be eaten. ​Can be transplanted to a permanent place

​.​ Cold-resistant crops (cabbage, lettuce, onion, celery) are planted in open ground in late April-early May. More heat-loving: tomatoes, physalis, zucchini, pumpkins - in early May. And such capricious as eggplants and peppers - after the first decade of May.

vyrastisad.ru

Are cabbage seedlings afraid of frost: late, early, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts?

Olga

At the beginning of the hardening of cabbage seedlings, its second foliar feeding is carried out. The leaves are sprayed with a solution of urea, potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon each) per 10 liters of water. One glass of solution is spent per plant.

Inna

After sowing cabbage seeds in the substrate, the temperature is maintained at 20-25 ° C, after germination, it is reduced to 10 ° C for a week. After 7 days, the temperature for growing cabbage seedlings on sunny days should be 17 ° C, on cloudy days - 14 ° C, at night - 9 ° C.

B3DYA

Elena Ivanova

​Initially, it is assumed that seed producers carry out their processing. Just in case, before sowing, I soak the seeds for 10 minutes in a solution (3 ml of peroxide per 100 g of water), heated to 40 ° C. There are many methods of seed treatment, and they are used for various purposes. To determine which technology you need, the article on seed pretreatment will help.​

Hedgehog

Soaking seeds in aloe juice.

The Scarlet Flower

, 25 minutes.

Irina Shabalina

hell

Polina Morozova

Cabbage damaged by caterpillar of white butterfly

When can seedlings of vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage) be planted in open ground without fear of frost? (+)

Alexander

This is about the size the plants should be before planting.

secret

If there are a lot of seedlings, then why not try? I have mine immediately in the OG with seeds. Adapts faster, gets sick less.​
If seedlings are planted in film greenhouses or under temporary film shelters, then this is done two weeks earlier, and if in heated greenhouses - three to four weeks earlier.
A week before planting cabbage seedlings in the ground, they stop watering it. 2 hours before planting seedlings, it is watered abundantly.
Excessive waterlogging of the substrate leads to seedling disease with a black leg.

Nadezhda Chausova

Cabbage is photophilous, loves open southern, southeastern slopes.

Anna

For growing pepper seedlings, fertile soil with a high content of humus, well-drained, with a pH level of 6.0-6.5 is ideal. I make a 1: 1: 1 soil mixture from fertile black soil, purchased soil for seedlings and sand. Recently I began to add a little vermiculite: it provides a stable wet state of the soil and at the same time additionally loosens the soil.

Tatiana Pavlova

To obtain juice, unyellowed lower leaves are taken from a three-year-old or older plant. Put in the refrigerator for a week. The seeds are kept in juice for 24 hours, after which, without washing, they are sown.

Alena_Key

After warming up, the seeds are immediately placed in cold water for 2-3 minutes !!

also included

If you don’t look after the cabbage, then the white butterflies will do their “dirty deed” - only holes may remain from the leaves. Of course, they won’t eat the whole head of cabbage, but they can spoil it. How to deal with it? There are many chemicals protecting plants from pests. They can be used on late varieties of cabbage, when the harvest is still far away. But on summer varieties the use of chemistry is undesirable.

I do not thin out cabbage seedlings in the nursery. Let it grow thick. When planting in the ground, you will reject weak seedlings, choose strong, strong, beautiful.

The sooner the cabbage is planted, the better, she loves coolness.

​Not a large number of seedlings for sampling can be planted earlier in order to get an early harvest if successful.

Seedlings are deepened to the first true leaves.

Pick

​Ph acidity of the soil​

A lot of controversy and contention among gardeners around the issue of steaming the soil before sowing (this is done in order to disinfect it). In my opinion, such a procedure will do more harm to the soil than good, so I never use this method. I don’t know if pathogens and pests will die, but beneficial microorganisms will certainly be destroyed. But this is just my opinion, you can do as you see fit with the soil for your seedlings. I've decided to try at the first stage to grow seedlings in peat tablets- I don’t know what will happen.

4. Characteristics of seedling soils.

A thermometer and a stopwatch must be used when warming up! You can't break the regime!​

Just Pooh

cabbage

ANATOLY EVSYUKOV

I offer a simple ancient way - garlic. As soon as you see white butterflies, take three large heads of garlic, peel, chop all the cloves, pour 5 liters of water, soak for about a week. Strain, spray your cabbage with this garlic tincture. It is desirable, of course, to have such a tincture by the time the summer of butterflies begins. Garlic tincture will scare away butterflies from heads of cabbage and there will be no caterpillars on it.

Galina

When you take cabbage seedlings out of a pot or nursery, you will plant them in the right way - at certain distances. Plants of varying degrees of development will quickly level out, catch up with each other. Even if some plants were oppressed, they will quickly recover. For cabbage, the earliest period of development is not the main one; what is important for it is what will happen in the garden after planting. There are many features here.​

Ludmila Kolosova

We already planted it like a week ago, but we live in the south. You are unlikely to have frosts.

Vera Petrivanova

If your seedlings were grown at home, then in warm sunny weather you need to take them outside or onto the balcony. Sunlight provides good light hardening of plants and prevents sunburn after landing in open ground.

Irina Tyurina

Cabbage seedlings with 5-6 leaves are planted in open ground.

Natalia Solovieva

Cabbage seedlings are carried out at the age of 14 days, after picking until the seedlings take root, the temperature is raised to 21 ° C, and then the mode is set: 17 ° C during the day and 9 ° C at night.

Olga

What seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, cabbage) are not afraid of frost?

Baizhumenova Natalia

Does anyone have experience using them for pepper seedlings? The advice of a practitioner would be very useful to me.

tokvladimir

What soil to choose from those offered in the store? Or can I take land from the garden?

dolphanics

The second method is

bolshoyvopros.ru

Question about early cabbage! Is it possible to plant seedlings of early cabbage already? After all, it tolerates small frosts.

Daria Gr

Proper preparation of beds for planting seedlings is an important factor in the success of harvesting. Before planting seedlings, the bed must be carefully dug up, simultaneously removing the roots of perennial weeds. Even if your land is plowed up or dug up in the fall, then in the spring the place for cabbage must be dug up again. Try to carefully break up the clods of earth. At the same time, the soil is loosened, saturated with oxygen. I usually use a digging fork. They do not cut the roots of perennial weeds. After all, cutting the root into 2-3 parts with a shovel, you will thereby get 2-3 plants from one weed.

Konstantin Petrov

Cabbage is not afraid of frost. Even grows better at low temperatures, becomes stronger and does not stretch
If seedlings were grown in greenhouses, then hardening is carried out by periodically removing frames or film.

ALN

It is good to shade the seedlings in the first 2-3 days after planting in the ground.

Eee-eh! Great, mighty

12 days before planting seedlings in the ground, they begin to harden it, gradually accustoming it to sunlight, wind and temperature. At the same time, one should not rush to plant seedlings of cabbage in open ground if the air temperature is low, because. after 30 days in such conditions, the cabbage will give an arrow with seeds.

Husky

Watering white cabbage

Tane4ka

It all depends on whether you dive pepper seedlings or not. If picking is included in the plans, then initially you can sow in one container. And again I will outline my opinion, based on long practice. The root system of pepper reacts extremely painfully to deformation, which, even to a minimal extent, cannot be avoided when picking. After this procedure, the seedlings get sick for 3-5 days, some die. Growing pepper seedlings with a pick is justified only when it needs not 10-30 pieces, but hundreds. It is much easier (and better for the plant) to sprout pepper seeds and immediately plant each in a separate container. What they are, how they differ, and how to make them with your own hands, you can find out by reading the review of seedling containers.
You can do it this way and that. Most importantly, the soil must meet the needs of young plants. What are these needs?

Igor Goncharuk

Etching in potassium permanganate.

Nikolai Panov

Everyone knows that until the 19th century, turnips were almost the main product in our country. Then he almost ousted her

is it possible to plant seedlings of cabbage in April

Islet of Palms

Broccoli is the most healthy cabbage, pantry of minerals and vitamins. The high percentage of vitamin C, folic acid, potassium, fiber, and antioxidants in broccoli makes this plant a worthy part of a healthy diet. With all these advantages, this wonderful vitamin supplier is also pleasant in taste, very simple to prepare, and contains almost no calories. The chlorophyll found in cabbage beneficial effect on blood components, and pollen on small heads of cabbage has medicinal properties. This is annual plant its taste resembles cauliflower, but unlike the latter, it has a higher yield. The ability to form a crop on the lateral stepchildren after removing the central head lengthens the fruiting period.

How to feed seedlings cabbage Brussels sprouts when planted on seedlings

It's hard to imagine a garden plot without lady cabbage, probably as hard as ours. dinner table without her presence. If you know the correct timing of its planting for seedlings and planting in the ground, then it can be grown even in the Urals and Siberia. But when to plant seedlings of cabbage in these areas, whether it is afraid of frost, we will talk in this review.

Cabbage is grown in the harsh climate of Siberia seedling way so that she has time to ripen in the conditions of a short summer before the onset of Siberian cold and frost.

According to the maturation period, it is divided into early, middle and late. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings and planting grown and strengthened seedlings in the ground is different. It is necessary to sow the seeds of early cabbage for seedlings in the spring at the beginning of April, in the middle and late in the second half of the month.

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground at the age of 40-45 days from the moment of seed germination. Early varieties are planted approximately in mid-May, medium and late at the end of May. Landing is carried out when the threat of possible spring temperature drops has passed.

As the popular belief says, it is possible to plant cabbage in open ground, after the bird cherry blossoms, there should be no return frosts.

Are seedlings afraid of frost, what temperature can they withstand

It is a fairly cold-resistant culture, and it is able to withstand a drop in temperature and small short-term frosts. What is the minimum temperature that seedlings can withstand? Hardened seedlings tolerate short-term sub-zero temperatures down to -3÷ -4°C.


Possible frosts may be indicated by a decrease in the evening temperature to +1 ÷ +2 ° C, a clear cloudless starry sky, and the absence of wind.

To save seedlings from low temperatures, you can use the method of sprinkling, smoking, but this is work all night and it is not always effective. To save seedlings, you can cover them with caps made from newspapers, wooden boxes, but much easier, it is more convenient and reliable to cover the plantings with a covering material with a density of 60, under which plants are able to withstand outdoor temperatures down to -7 ° C below zero.


Spring planting in open ground

Planting cabbage seedlings in open ground in Siberia is practically no different from planting it in other regions, except perhaps for shifted dates and for harsh conditions, the plants must be well hardened.

It is necessary to start hardening seedlings within a week after diving.

Seedlings of early varieties are planted first in open ground, followed in line by color, savoy, medium and late white cabbages.

Seedlings with a fibrous root system and 3-5 well-developed leaves are considered ready for transplantation.

Soil preparation: what fertilizers to apply

The landing site is chosen open and well-lit, with loose and moisture-permeable soil. It is advisable to prepare a plot for growing vegetables in the fall. It is cleaned of weeds, compost or humus and mineral fertilizers are added for digging. Organics are applied at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m 2, mineral fertilizers - 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or superphosphate per 1 m 2. If application mineral fertilizers it is not acceptable for you to add one glass of wood ash per 1 m 2.

It is good if siderats were planted on the site before digging - rye, oats, lupins, phacelia, peas. These plants improve the structure of the soil and cleanse it of such a dangerous cabbage disease as keel.

It is impossible to sow a plot intended for growing cabbage with mustard, since both plants belong to the cruciferous family and have common diseases and pests.

The best soils for growing this crop are slightly acidic or neutral soils, therefore, acidic soils in the fall must be limed - add slaked lime, dolomite flour or wood ash for digging. Another reason for the need to deoxidize the soil is the fight against keeled cabbage, which rages precisely on acidic soils.

You can grow cabbage after cereals and legumes, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, peppers, cucumbers and beets.

Planting scheme and growing methods

For each variety of culture, there are landing patterns:

  • early white and red head - 30 * 50 cm;
  • middle and late - 50 * 70 cm;
  • savoy - 70 * 30 cm;
  • color - 30-60 cm;
  • broccoli for good shoot development - 40 * 60 cm;
  • kohlrabi - 30 * 40 cm.

Cabbage loves light and good ventilation, so you can adhere to a simpler arrangement of plants in a row and between rows of 50 * 50 cm.

Can be planted in single rows or paired.

If double row planting is used, then to avoid thickening, it is better to plant the second row in a checkerboard pattern.

When planting in single rows cabbage is well ventilated and is at ease without close neighbors.

Cabbage plantations for best use free space can be compacted with other crops. This plant very good with neighbors with a superficial root system, such as parsley, legumes (they also enrich the soil with nitrogen), onions, spinach, lettuces, dill, carrots. Cabbage takes food from the deep layers of the earth, and the neighbors from the upper ones and in such a community no one interferes with anyone.

It is advisable to plant seedlings in cloudy weather or in the evening. Strong and healthy plants are planted, if the seedlings have even the slightest signs of the disease, they are rejected. They also act with weak plants, which are either not planted, or planted last in the remaining area.

Neighbors can also be selected by maturity. So next to the garden with early cabbage, you can plant tomatoes and beets. After harvesting ripe cabbage in June, the remaining plants will continue to develop normally.

In order to exclude the accumulation of "cabbage" diseases and pests in the soil, it is advisable to change the site for growing crops annually. You can return it to its original place after 3-4 years.

What to put in the hole in the spring and how much

If no fertilizer was applied to the area intended for growing cabbage in the fall, this can be done directly at planting. What to add to the hole when planting seedlings and how much?

In holes with a diameter of 30-40 cm and a depth of 15-20 cm, put 1 tbsp. a spoonful of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea and superphosphate, and of course put humus, enriching and improving the structure of the soil. If heavy perlite is poured on a plot of soil. All components of the landing hole are mixed well with the ground, poured with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, or a solution soda ash(a glass of soda in a bucket) and plant seedlings. Seedlings deepen the cotyledon leaves and slightly compact the soil.

You do not need to spend special efforts on growing cabbage if adhere to planting dates and observe agricultural practices. And you will be provided with this delicious and useful vegetable all year round.

Problems

Of all the cruciferous diseases and pests, only kale is practically unaffected. The worst enemies of cabbage are the spring cabbage fly, butterfly caterpillars, mealy aphids, whiteflies, cruciferous keel, earthen fleas and birds. However, insects or fungal diseases should not be blamed for all troubles.

Most often, the gardeners themselves, who do not compact the soil when preparing the beds and when planting seedlings, are to blame for the fact that Brussels sprouts have loose buds, cabbage does not tie heads, and cauliflower grows small.

The reason for the failure may be the acidity of the soil or the cultivation of cabbage in the same area where it failed last year.
Seedling beds are arranged in a sunny, wind-protected place. The soil must be fertile - if manure was not applied under the previous crop, compost is added to the soil during autumn digging. Before sowing, the soil surface is loosened with a rake (not a pitchfork) and complex fertilizer. If the spring cabbage fly has plagued you in the past, you can resort to biological methods and introduce a nematode culture into the soil. The soil is trampled down so that there are no voids left, its surface is slightly loosened with a rake and seeds are sown according to the instructions on the bag.

downy mildew

The leaves turn yellow on top, a white mold bloom appears on their lower surface. Usually affects young plants. The spread of the disease contributes to the thickening of plantings and high humidity. Affected plants do not grow well.

Ways to fight: At the first signs of the disease, plants are sprayed with mancose - bom.

Warning measures: Seeds are sown in sterile compost. Do not grow seedlings in a Site that has previously had this disease.

SPRING CABBAGE FLY

The leaves take on a bluish tint and wither in the sun; more often suffer from flies recently planted seedlings. Young plants die, the rest are stunted. Headed cabbages do not tie heads, cauliflower heads are small.

Ways to fight: Immediately after planting the seedlings, a nematode culture is introduced or the soil is covered under the roofing plants. You can cover young plants with a fine mesh

Galloforming Weevil

Much less dangerous and less common is the keel of the caries. Surface roots swell. Plant growth may slow down somewhat, but this has almost no effect on the yield.

Ways to fight: The fight is inappropriate. The spread of pests can be stopped by watering the ground around the plants with permethrin.

Warning measures: To a certain extent, funds from other, more dangerous soil pests help.

Kila cruciferous

The leaves turn pale and not the sun wither. A dangerous disease that can lead to the death of the crop in a wet summer.

Ways to fight: None. Affected plants are removed and burned. With a mass disease, cabbage is not grown on the affected part for several years.

Warning measures: They add enough lime to the soil, provide good drainage. Before planting, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in thiophanate-methyl.

BEL (White rust)

White spots appear on the leaves. In warm, damp weather, the entire leaf may become covered with white fluff. Growth stops, plants may die. fungal disease most commonly affects Brussels sprouts.

Ways to fight: Sick leaves are cut and burned. Plants are thinning out.

Warning measures:

RINGSPOT

Brown rings up to 2-3 cm in diameter appear on adult leaves. Severely affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. Wet weather contributes to the disease.

Ways to fight: Sick leaves are cut and burned. Plants are sprayed with mancozeb. Prevention measures: The following year, do not plant cabbage in the infected area.

FAN

The leaves are thin, belt-like. Cauliflower heads are small or absent. The reason is the lack of molybdenum that plants experience in acidic soil, with

Ways to fight: Plants are regularly sprayed with a solution of trace elements.

Warning measures: Before sowing or planting seedlings, lime is added to the soil.

ROOT ROTT

The base of the stem turns black and shrivels. Many young plants die, and survivors grow very slowly and break easily at the base.

Ways to fight: None.

Warning measures: Cabbage should not be planted in moist, cold soil or compost, and should not be thickened. Sometimes treatment of plants with ditan helps.

BLACK ROT

A dangerous disease that is sometimes encountered in warm, humid summers. Seedlings die, adult plants lag behind in growth, the leaves turn yellow, the veins on them turn black. The lower leaves fall off. A dark brown ring is visible on the cut of the stem.

Ways to fight: None. Sick plants are dug up and burned.

Warning measures: None. Observe crop rotation.

BUTTERFLY CATERPILLARS

Butterfly caterpillars gnaw holes in the leaves and in the head. They can infect plants during the entire period of growth, especially many caterpillars occur in dry, hot summers.

Ways to fight: At the first sign of damage, the plants are sprayed with permethrin or fenitrothio-nom. If necessary, the processing is repeated.

Warning measures: When white butterflies appear, inspect the leaves and destroy the eggs.

LOOSE HEADS

Heads of cabbage are not tied for various reasons - most often due to a lack of humus in the soil or insufficiently compacted soil. The cause of this defect can also be drought and heavy shading. Proper plant nutrition, especially complex mineral or water-soluble potassium, but not nitrogen fertilizer, contributes to the formation of dense heads of cabbage.

Can severely damage leaves and stems in wet weather. During the day, pests usually hide, but their presence is given out by mucous paths. Young plants are especially affected and may even die.

Ways to fight: At the first sign of a lesion, methiocarb or anti-slug granules are scattered on the garden bed.

Warning measures: The area around the landings is kept clean.

BIRDS

In many areas, birds, especially pigeons, cause serious damage by eating leaves to the veins.

Ways to fight: None.

Warning measures: Scarecrows are ineffective. You can cover the plants with nylon mesh.

Cracking heads

Cabbage heads can crack for a variety of reasons. In the summer, this is usually caused by rain after a long drought. Spraying the plants with fertilizer at the first sign of cracking can help, but it's best to prevent the problem by watering the plants regularly during dry weather. In autumn, a sharp cold snap is dangerous; if the forecast promises hard frost, it is better to harvest and lay it in storage.

ROUGH BRUSSELS SCREW

Sometimes on Brussels sprouts, the buds are not dense and round, but loose, and they need to be removed immediately. The reason is the same for which heads of cabbage are not tied - lack of humus in the soil and insufficient compaction of the soil around the roots. In drought, plants should be watered regularly and seedlings should not be planted too closely. It is best to grow F1 hybrids.

gall midge rutabaga

Rare, but extremely dangerous. The top of the shoot and the base of the petiole of the upper leaves swell and deform, new leaves do not form. See if there are small white larvae of these midges on the petioles.

Ways to fight: Severely affected plants are dug up and burned. Spraying or pollinating with lindane at the first sign of infestation can prevent the spread of pests.

Warning measures: There are no effective means of prevention.

Frost Damage

In the spring, cabbage can suffer from severe frosts. The roots may freeze and the plant will die. The leaves of heat-loving cabbages are afraid of even a slight frost. The whitened areas of the leaves are easily affected by fungi and bacteria, which leads to their decay.

Ways to fight: Frozen leaves are cut and burned.

Warning measures: When planting, carefully compact the soil. Unripened tissues suffer more from frost, therefore, when preparing the soil, a balanced mineral fertilizer must be applied.

EARTH FLEACHES

Jumping bugs eat away the tissue on the upper side of the leaf, and in the places of nibbling, with further growth of the leaf, small holes are formed. Plant growth slows down, seedlings may die.

Ways to fight: At the first sign of damage, the plants are sprayed with derris. In drought, damaged plants are watered.

Warning measures: Seeds are treated with an insecticide before planting.

SMALL CAULIFLOWER

Many gardeners do not succeed in cauliflower. Often at the beginning of the season a very small head is formed, which quickly blooms and forms fruits. The reasons may be different, for example, damage to young plants by earthen fleas, lack of boron or molybdenum in the soil, or violations of the culture conditions, for example, poor or loose soil, improper planting, insufficient watering or planting seedlings that are not hardened.

mealy aphid

Starting from June, during drought, colonies of grayish, waxy aphids may appear on the underside of the leaves and tops of plants. Affected leaves are curled and yellow - (they. In case of severe damage, a moldy coating may form; in this case, the plants are unsuitable for use.

Ways to fight: The fight is difficult. Plants are carefully sprayed with permethrin or heptenophos.

Warning measures: Old stumps are dug up and burned.

WHITEFLY CABBAGE

It has become much more common in recent years. Small white insects and their larvae hide under the leaves. Damaged plants weaken and become moldy. Adult insects rise into the air in a cloud when they are disturbed.

Ways to fight: The fight is difficult. Once every 3 days, in the morning or in the evening, the plants are sprayed with permethrin until the insects disappear.

Warning measures: There are no effective preventive measures

MAGNESIUM DEFICIENCY

The tissue of adult leaves between the veins first turns yellow, and then acquires an orange, white, red or purple color. Magnesium deficiency is much more common than manganese deficiency.

Ways to fight:

Warning measures: During autumn digging, compost is introduced into the soil. Use fertilizers containing magnesium.

MANGANESE DEFICIENCY

It's not always easy to tell from just one sheet if you're dealing with a magnesium or manganese deficiency. Manganese deficiency usually occurs on both mature and young leaves, and it is not uncommon for leaf margins to curl inwards and dry out.

Ways to fight: The soil around the plants is sprayed with a solution of trace elements. Multiple top dressing with microelements through the leaves is also effective.

KHRUSCH (May beetle)

Leaves wither, plants die. Roots of dug-out plants have been gnawed off, and in the ground there are slow, thick, curved larvae of this beetle, active all year round. Especially common in the developed virgin areas.

Ways to fight: None.

Warning measures: During autumn digging, larvae are collected and destroyed, or biological control methods are used, introducing a nematode culture into the soil.

GORNOSTAEV CABBAGE MOTH

In some areas, the green caterpillars of these butterflies can cause a lot of trouble in the summer. They eat away the leaf tissue from below and, unlike the caterpillars of the whites, usually leave the upper skin. Disturbed caterpillars hang on cobwebs. With a massive invasion, only veins remain from the leaves.

Ways to fight: At the first sign of damage, the plants are sprayed with permethrin.

Warning Marys: None.

SCOOP

Large gray or brown caterpillars hide in the ground near the surface. At night, they gnaw the stems of young plants at the base. They can gnaw leaves and roots. Most active in June-July.

Ways to fight: In the middle of summer, the soil around the plants is regularly loosened. Caterpillars are collected and destroyed.

Warning measures: They use biological methods of control, introducing a culture of nematodes into the soil.

BORON DEFICIENCY

Cauliflower is very sensitive to boron deficiency. Young leaves are deformed, the heads are small, bitter. The main symptom is the appearance of brown spots on the heads.

Ways to fight: Multiple top dressing with microelements through the leaves.

Warning measures: During autumn digging, compost is introduced into the soil. In the soil poor in boron, borax is applied at the rate of 2 g per 1 sq. m without overdosing.

RAPE FLEA

Affected plants are internalized and die. On the cut of the stem, small creamy larvae of these beetles are visible. Active from August to October.

Ways to fight: Affected plants are dug up and burned.

Warning measures: The following year, cabbage is not planted in the infected area.

Do I need to hide strawberries from frost

Often in early spring and late autumn Freezes happen. This worries beginner strawberries. And so much so that it makes you commit absurd acts, spend a lot of time and energy on absolutely unnecessary work, the results of which are often deplorable.

This year, for example, the whole of March was practically frost-free. During the day - up to 15 degrees. They rushed to plant strawberries. And in April it got colder, almost every day frosts up to 10 degrees. They panicked. Those who purchased seedlings, but did not have time to plant them, began to plant them in cups without any experience. As a result - decay, mold, loss of seedlings and complete despair.

Let's figure it out. Yes, Freezing at night, but during the day the temperature is plus-vaya. During the night, 2-3 cm of soil freezes, but not up to 7-10 degrees, as in the air, but up to a maximum of 3 degrees, the temperature is by no means critical. But at a depth of 5-10 cm, where the roots are located, the temperature is positive, so the roots grow quietly. As soon as it gets warmer, the seedlings rapidly begin to grow.

Many are afraid to plant earth-nika in later periods (October - November-November) - it will not take root, it will disappear over the winter. Nonsense! I already once mentioned that I planted strawberries a day before stable frosts. And although the winter was very harsh, the earth froze over more than 1 m), out of 10 seedlings, 9 survived.

Another phobia Shelter earth-niki for the winter. Some do not imagine strawberries not covered for the winter. Moreover, the denser they cover the seedlings, the more soundly they sleep. But in vain. For example, in the last winter, stable frosts were only 2-3 weeks in January-February, the rest of the time it was warm. And we have strawberries covered with a 20 cm covering layer. And still it didn’t help, it died out (there were many similar complaints). Yes, it didn’t freeze, but vyprela! It is very good that you worked hard, put a fur coat on your pets so that it would be warmer in winter. But after all, the gardener-th - the spring is not only fed by the arms and legs, and the head is not only the food supply. Really, the thought of opening your strawberry never once flashed, because there is no winter! We wanted the best, but left as always.

When to plant cabbage in open ground in Siberia and the Urals, is it afraid of frost

It is difficult to imagine a garden plot without the cabbage lady, probably as difficult as our dining table without her presence. If you know Correct Timing its planting for seedlings and planting in the ground, then it can be grown even in the Urals and Siberia. But when to plant seedlings of cabbage in these areas, whether it is afraid of frost, we will talk in this review.

  • Spring planting in open ground

Terms of planting cabbage in Siberia and the Urals

In the harsh climate of Siberia, cabbage is grown in seedlings so that it has time to ripen in a short summer before the onset of Siberian cold and frost.

According to the maturation period, it is divided into early, middle and late. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds for seedlings and planting grown and strengthened seedlings in the ground is different. It is necessary to sow the seeds of early cabbage for seedlings in the spring at the beginning of April, in the middle and late in the second half of the month.

Planting cabbage seeds for seedlings

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground at the age of 40-45 days from the moment of seed germination. Early varieties are planted approximately in mid-May, medium and late at the end of May. Landing is carried out when the threat of possible spring temperature drops has passed.

As the popular belief says, it is possible to plant cabbage in open ground, after the bird cherry blossoms, there should be no return frosts.

Are seedlings afraid of frost, what temperature can they withstand

It is a fairly cold-resistant culture, and It is able to withstand temperature drops and small short-term frosts. What is the minimum temperature that seedlings can withstand? Hardened seedlings tolerate short-term sub-zero temperatures down to -3÷ -4°C.

Cabbage seedlings in ice Possible frosts may be indicated by a decrease in evening temperature to +1÷ +2°C, a clear cloudless starry sky, and the absence of wind.

To save seedlings from low temperatures, you can use the method of sprinkling, smoking, but this is work all night and it is not always effective. To save seedlings, you can cover them with caps made from newspapers, wooden boxes, but much easier, It is more convenient and reliable to cover the plantings with a covering material with a density of 60, under which plants are able to withstand outdoor temperatures down to -7 ° C below zero.

Greenhouses will protect seedlings of cabbage from late frosts

Spring planting in open ground

Planting cabbage seedlings in open ground In Siberia, it is practically no different from planting it in other regions, except perhaps for shifted dates and for harsh conditions, the plants must be well hardened.

It is necessary to start hardening seedlings within a week after diving.

Seedlings of early varieties are planted first in open ground, followed in line by color, savoy, medium and late white cabbages.

Seedlings with a fibrous root system and 3-5 well-developed leaves are considered ready for transplantation.

Cabbage seedling Planting cabbage seedlings in open ground

Soil preparation: what fertilizers to apply

The landing site is chosen open and well-lit, with loose and moisture-permeable soil. It is advisable to prepare a plot for growing vegetables in the fall. It is cleaned of weeds, compost or humus and mineral fertilizers are added for digging. Organics are applied at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m2, mineral fertilizers - 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska or superphosphate per 1 m2. If the use of mineral fertilizers is not acceptable for you, it is enough to add one glass of wood ash per 1 m2.

It is good if siderats were planted on the site before digging - rye, oats, lupins, phacelia, peas. These plants improve the structure of the soil and cleanse it of such a dangerous cabbage disease as keel.

It is impossible to sow a plot intended for growing cabbage with mustard, since both plants belong to the cruciferous family and have common diseases and pests.

The best soils for growing this crop are slightly acidic or neutral soils, therefore, acidic soils in the fall must be limed - add slaked lime, dolomite flour or wood ash for digging. Another reason for the need to deoxidize the soil is the fight against keeled cabbage, which rages precisely on acidic soils.

You can grow cabbage after cereals and legumes, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, peppers, cucumbers and beets.

Planting scheme and growing methods

For each variety of culture, there are landing patterns:

  • Early white and red head - 30 * 50 cm;
  • Middle and late - 50 * 70 cm;
  • Savoy - 70 * 30 cm;
  • Color - 30-60 cm;
  • Broccoli for good shoot development - 40 * 60 cm;
  • Kohlrabi - 30 * 40 cm.

Cabbage loves light and good ventilation, so You can also stick to a simpler arrangement of plants in a row and between rows of 50 * 50 cm.

Can be planted in single rows or paired.

If double row planting is used, then to avoid thickening, it is better to plant the second row in a checkerboard pattern.

The scheme of planting cabbage in paired rows The scheme of planting cabbage in a checkerboard pattern Cultivation of cabbage in open ground in paired rows

When planting in single rows cabbage is well ventilated and is at ease without close neighbors.

The scheme of single-row planting cabbage Growing cabbage in one row

Cabbage plantations for better use of free space can be compacted with other crops. This plant is very good with neighbors with a superficial root system, such as parsley, legumes (they enrich the soil with nitrogen at the same time), onions, spinach, lettuces, dill, carrots. Cabbage takes food from the deep layers of the earth, and the neighbors from the upper ones and in such a community no one interferes with anyone.

Cultivation of cabbage with other vegetables

It is advisable to plant seedlings in cloudy weather or in the evening. Strong and healthy plants are planted, if the seedlings have even the slightest signs of the disease, they are rejected. They also act with weak plants, which are either not planted, or planted last in the remaining area.

Neighbors can also be selected by maturity. So next to the garden with early cabbage, you can plant tomatoes and beets. After harvesting ripe cabbage in June, the remaining plants will continue to develop normally.

In order to exclude the accumulation of "cabbage" diseases and pests in the soil, it is advisable to change the site for growing crops annually. You can return it to its original place after 3-4 years.

What to put in the hole in the spring and how much

If no fertilizer was applied to the area intended for growing cabbage in the fall, this can be done directly at planting. What to add to the hole when planting seedlings and how much?

In holes with a diameter of 30-40 cm and a depth of 15-20 cm, put 1 tbsp. a spoonful of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea and superphosphate, and of course put humus, which enriches and improves soil structure. If heavy perlite is poured on a plot of soil. All components of the planting hole are well mixed with the ground, poured with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, or a solution of soda ash (a glass of soda in a bucket) and seedlings are planted. Seedlings deepen the cotyledon leaves and slightly compact the soil.

You do not need to spend special efforts on growing cabbage if Adhere to planting dates and observe agricultural practices. And you will be provided with this tasty and healthy vegetable all year round.

Cabbage is one of the most common plants in our country, in the middle lane and even in the northern regions, in the so-called zone of risky farming. This vegetable is resistant to cold and even to slight frosts, unpretentious in care, even a beginner can cope with its cultivation. They like to serve cabbage on the table in different forms - they eat it fresh and pickle it, salt it and pickle it, stew it and add it to soups. Its health benefits are undeniable. If you know how to grow cabbage seedlings at home, you can get a vegetable that keeps well and pleases the whole family for most of the year.

Why is it good to grow seedlings?

Of course, buying ready-made bushes for your garden is easier. But, firstly, it is quite expensive, especially if you are counting on a big harvest for the whole family. Secondly, when grown in industrial environment chemicals that protect against pests, growth stimulants and other products of production that are not good for human health can be added to the ground.

Seed selection

When answering the question of how to grow strong seedlings of cabbage, special attention should be paid to what material we will use.

  • Take the seeds of proven companies: they protect their reputation, there is less risk that you will be deceived.
  • Read the information on the packaging carefully. The method of cultivation and some nuances will largely depend on it.
  • The most persistent and unpretentious varieties are hybrid. They allow you to get a crop in difficult conditions or with a complete lack of experience.

If a planting material you do not have from the store, but from your own garden, you need to make pickling from various diseases and harmful microorganisms. To do this, soak the seeds for a quarter of an hour in hot water and immediately after that for a few minutes in cold water.

There is another option for disinfection. Take a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). Make a pink solution, making sure that all the particles dissolve, otherwise you can burn the plants. Pour the soil with the resulting liquid before planting seedlings in it. The seeds are also soaked for a quarter of an hour in potassium permanganate (a slightly more concentrated solution than for irrigation), after which they are washed with clean water.

Soil selection

Experienced gardeners know that it is better to prepare the soil in advance, because during the season the price for it doubles or triples. Ideal Solution for seedlings - this is a specially prepared soil. You can also take peat cups, and tablets from peat humus. The only problem is that they cost a lot, and at the end of winter - the beginning of spring, they are very expensive.

The soil from the garden for fragile sprouts is heavy, it can damage them. If you do not want to use the finished one completely, mix it in a 1: 1 ratio with the ground from the garden. Leave the mixture for 40 minutes before use. hot oven to disinfect and kill bacteria.

The best option on how to grow cabbage seedlings in an apartment is to achieve a ratio of sod land, peat and sand in a ratio of approximately 3: 2: 1. Compost and humus should not be added to the soil: they contribute to the rapid and effective development leaves, but the root is weak and unable to grow in open ground.

In no case should decaying organic matter be added to the soil for seedlings. Manure, foliage, even tea brewing will lead to irreversible decomposition processes and a decrease in the amount of nitrogen, which is very harmful for cruciferous plants, including cabbage.

Sowing time

How to properly grow cabbage seedlings also depends on the start time of work. Here it is important to calculate everything correctly so that by the time of landing the bushes are strong and ready to survive the vagaries of the weather.

  • Early cabbage should be sown 45-60 days before it is time to send it to open ground.
  • 1-1.5 months is enough for a mid-season vegetable to become seedlings suitable for planting.
  • Late varieties suitable for pickling and long storage need a month of growing as seedlings.

Set a deadline for planting vegetables in the ground, count from it the required amount of time for germination, add from 3 to 5 days for the seeds to come out - this is the required number in which you need to start working on cabbage.

Growing methods

There are two ways to grow cabbage seedlings at home. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages, so you need to choose the one that seems acceptable for you.

  • Landing without diving. Produced in separate containers. Some choose plastic or paper food cups, others buy special peat cups. One seed falls into one container. Cabbage seedlings sprout, they are not disturbed, and when the time comes, they are transplanted into a garden bed. This method allows plants to avoid stress and not feel discomfort due to moving into open ground.
  • Growing cabbage seedlings with a pick. Seeds are dipped into a large and low container to a depth of 1 centimeter. When the seedlings sprout, after a couple of weeks they are transplanted into separate containers. When a month passes, the plants need to be moved again - into deeper glasses, made of plastic or peat. Such cabbage becomes stronger, it is resistant to weather changes, stress and diseases.

A person who already has gardening experience can grow good seedlings by picking. As a result of incorrect, insufficiently accurate transplanting, the root system of the sprouts can be damaged - it is too fragile and tender.

It is useful to add a little humus and wood ash to the picking soil. During planting, make such depressions in the ground so that the roots do not bend.

Conditions for successful cultivation

  • Until the seeds break out of the ground, they do not need sunlight. But the air temperature should not fall below +20 degrees. You can place the containers in a plastic bag that must not be closed completely. So that the shells of the seeds that are pushed to the surface do not interfere with the shoot, carefully moisten the surface of the soil with clean water from a spray bottle.
  • The first sprouts require coolness: at this stage, +15 degrees is enough for plants. But the need for good lighting increases. In such conditions, the cabbage will not be very tall, but it will become strong, and its root system will be resistant to cold.
  • In order for seedlings to grow, they need to be watered regularly. This should be done in moderation: too much water can lead to black leg- a disease dangerous for cabbage and other plants of the cruciferous family.
  • Don't forget to loosen the soil. This must be done very carefully, since the root system is close enough, it is still too fragile and tender. Once every 10 days, it is recommended to perform hilling, which delivers more oxygen and nutrients to the plant.

Seedling fertilizer

Saturation with useful substances is the key to the health of sprouts. Fertilizers for cabbage seedlings can be purchased at specialized stores. Read the instructions carefully and dilute the mineral compounds with water as directed by the manufacturer.

It is necessary to feed cabbage seedlings three times:

  • when a couple of first true leaves appear;
  • after a week after transplanting to another container;
  • before plant hardening.

hardening

How to grow seedlings of cabbage so that it is not afraid of cold weather, winds and even slight frosts? To do this, you need to harden the plants. The procedure should be done about half a month before planting the plants in the ground.

  • Always keep the window open over the cabbage sprouts for three days.
  • After that, start arranging "walks" for the seedlings. Take it out into the open air, covering it from aggressive direct sunlight with a thin white natural cloth. Increase your time outside by about 60 minutes each day.
  • After a week of daily "walking", you can move the plants in cups outside to get used to outdoor life.

When to plant cabbage seedlings?

Plants are ready to move to the garden when 6 to 8 leaves appear on each stalk. Vegetables are unpretentious, they grow well in any soil, the only exception is clay soil. The best place for planting is raised and open to the sun, not shaded areas of the garden.

early cabbage

There are many varieties of this cruciferous vegetable. Among them there are those that allow you to get a harvest in July - early August. They cannot be stored for a long time and do not have the ability to bring a high yield, however, they make it possible to feast on fresh vegetables from the garden about 100 days earlier than standard varieties. How to grow seedlings of early cabbage? The method is practically no different from the conventional one.

  • The seeds are sorted out, the bad ones are thrown away.
  • If the planting material is from your garden, treat it.
  • It is impossible to talk about uniform terms for planting seedlings in open ground, since each variety needs its own amount of time to germinate, get stronger and prepare. Individual indicators can be found out from the information that is available on the packaging of seeds of a particular type of vegetable.

Here are the approximate dates for sowing seedlings of the most common varieties:

  • white and red cabbage- mid-March;
  • broccoli and cauliflower - the end of March and the whole of April;
  • Beijing cabbage - early May;
  • savoy cabbage - all winter - mid-April;
  • kohlrabi - from the first days of March;
  • Brussels sprouts - all of April.

frost- one of the most unpleasant weather phenomena. They are dangerous because they can occur both in spring and early summer, at the very time of flowering of most plants. For different regions frosts are dangerous to varying degrees, for example, in the southern regions, the snow melts much earlier than in the northern regions, the plants wake up earlier, begin to grow actively, and during this period they can fall under frost. In the northern regions, plants are most often hidden under the snow during frosts, since the snow stays longer. However, during the period of possible frosts, gardeners need to be on the alert in order to protect their plantings in a timely manner by any available means.

Due to frost, young shoots can die even on covered roses, grapes, unrooted seedlings, young sprouts of flowers. These landings must be additionally covered.

Many plants themselves have learned to protect themselves from frost. It is worth watching the primroses. Snowdrops neatly cover the cups of flowers and bend down to the ground. Tulips, hazel grouse tightly close the flowers and also lean towards the ground. Daffodils do not close the flowers and simply tilt them closer to the ground, pushkinia and chionodoxes lie on top of each other: it’s warmer in the company. During frosts, peony bushes change: shoots with buds of plants tend to hide among other shoots, tilting them to the ground. Phloxes and bearded irises also behave. And as soon as the sun comes out in the morning and noticeably warmer, the plants straighten again and are without any damage.

Usually in May-June, seedlings are already planted on our ridges and in greenhouses and shoots of various vegetables appear. There may also be losses from frost. Losses directly depend not only on sub-zero temperatures, but also on the duration of freezing in time and wind strength. For example, pepper seedlings die already at a temperature of 0 ° C, cucumbers - at minus 1 ... -2 ° C. Tomatoes can survive frost down to minus 1 ... -1.5 ° C, provided that they are already well rooted after planting, but at the same time they are greatly delayed in development and lose productivity. Planted seedlings are best additionally insulated with covering material. Absolutely do not withstand even short-term temperature drops to 0 ° C, all gourds: zucchini, pumpkins, squash, watermelons and melons. These plants should be covered when frost occurs. cardboard boxes, and on top with another 2-4 layers of covering material.

Luke more resistant to frost. Rooted hardened seedlings can withstand up to minus 3 ° C, in the phase of 2-4 true leaves onion is no longer afraid of -5 ... -7 ° С, as well as dill and spinach.

seedlings carrots will withstand short-term frosts down to minus -5 ... -7 ° С, but shoots beets damaged at -2 ° C, so it must be planted later carrots. Radish, turnip, swede, cabbage and cauliflower can withstand temperatures down to minus -3 ... -4 ° C.

seedlings peas and beans they are not afraid of freezing to minus -3 ... -4 ° С, but in plants that have fallen under frost, development is delayed and productivity is reduced.

If potatoes seedlings have already appeared, before the onset of frost they can be spud "with the head". If the potato plot is large and there is no way to spud potatoes, nothing bad will happen. Instead of frozen shoots, new ones will grow after a while. The crop will not suffer much.

If speak about apple, pear, cherry, peach, plum, apricot, then a temperature of about -4 ° C will be detrimental to them. But at the time of flowering, they can suffer even at -2 ° C.

Frost signs.

If in the evening the air temperature on the thermometer approached +1 ... +2 ° С, at night there will most likely be a slight frost, and all heat-loving plants need shelter. Moreover, the lowest temperatures are not in the evening or at night, as many gardeners believe, but at sunrise.
The approach of frost is also indicated by such factors as a cloudless sky, a subsiding wind or a cessation of precipitation. And, conversely, in cloudy, windy and rainy weather, the probability of frost is minimal.

Ways to protect plants from frost.

There are many ways to protect plants from frost.

Probably the most ancient frost protection is smoke. To protect plants from frost in the area in different places bonfires are kindled and, in general, a warm smoke screen is created, softening the effect of frost on plants. As soon as the thermometer approaches 0 ° C, fires must be kindled so that the smoke continues until sunrise. However, smoke protects plants only when it spreads close to the ground, i.e. spreads. This happens when the weather is calm. It should be noted that this method is not environmentally friendly and unsafe.

Another common way is sprinkling. For sprinkling, it is necessary to spray trees, shrubs and other plantings that may suffer from frost through a fine sprayer. When water freezes, heat will be released. The sprinkling method is considered quite effective when freezing at about -5 ° C. True, this method is effective only in calm weather. Otherwise, the opposite may happen. You can water the soil, given its ability to accumulate heat - during the day the sun heats the damp earth, and at night it gives off heat and a certain microclimate is formed around the plants. But this method is applicable until the onset of frost.

Before frosts, you can create a heat-insulating layer over the plants: cover them with newspapers in 3-4 layers at night, cardboard, old clothes, matting, burlap, rugs or something else. The principle of operation of such a layer is simple - like clothing on a person, it retains heat, preventing it from dissipating. As individual shelters, specially made caps from newspapers are suitable, which are used to cover plants, bags, buckets, pots, wooden boxes. In addition, the simplest shelters can be made from plastic bottles with a cut off bottom. A bottle is installed on the plant, and a covering material of the type is thrown over all this for reliability. The plastic film itself does not save from freezing, it is better to use it as an additional layer only on top of the covering material or boxes. Covering materials are better to use in several layers than more number layers, the more reliably the plants will be protected. The covering material should not touch the plants; there must be a layer of air between it and the plants. This method of shelter is used when the temperature drops below 0 ° C. In cold weather, plants without access to light can feel good for up to seven days.

If frosts are expected to -4 ... -7 ° С, you will have to take extra care of planting in greenhouses and greenhouses. If the plants are small, you can use old newspapers, burlap or covering material. In the case when it is not possible to cover the plants inside the greenhouse “with their heads”, it is necessary to insulate the greenhouse itself with covering materials, fixing them either outside or inside. At the same time, be sure to leave a small air gap for better heat retention between the covering material and the greenhouse. For additional heating of the air in the greenhouse, you can lay out stones and plastic bottles dark color filled with water. Warming up during the day, they will give off heat at night.
The plant can be temporarily covered with earth taken between the rows or from the path. It is necessary to do this a few hours before frost, and with warming, the earth must be cleared.

Effectively resist the harmful effects of frost down to -5 ° C will help foliar top dressing potash and phosphate fertilizers. But it should be remembered that it is necessary to produce top dressing that helps to increase the frost resistance of plants a day before the onset of frost, otherwise there will be no use from such procedures.

And further important point: after frost, frozen plants should be hidden as far as possible from the bright sunlight and be sure to spray "Epin" or "Zircon".

In order to protect your plantings from return frosts, listen to the weather forecast, monitor the air temperature, especially if it quickly starts to decline in the evening, and whether it pulls cold from the north side. It is useful to know the features of your site, in which part it is colder and which is warmer, and take this into account when planting heat-loving plants. And it's always better to play it safe by covering the plants.
Of course, there is no ideal and ultra-reliable way to protect plants from frost. Each of the above methods is good in its own way and each has its drawbacks. Which one you prefer is up to you. And if you manage to protect the plants as much as possible on your suburban area from frost, in response to your care, they will thank you with a rich harvest. Good luck, dear gardeners!