Chimney masonry with or without chimney. Brick chimney laying technology. What to consider when building a chimney

Chimneys are used to remove combustion products and generate draft in furnaces. They are divided into mounted and root pipes and wall channels or chimneys.

Attached pipes are installed directly on the furnace itself, they serve as a continuation of it, as it were. It is better to put them not on the stove masonry, but on a reinforced concrete slab laid on the ceiling. The thickness of the slab must be at least 50 mm and well reinforced.

Root pipes are made in the form of a separate riser on a solid foundation. They take up space indoors and require more bricks. They should only be used when it is not possible to install chimneys or extension pipes. Furnaces are recommended to be placed as close as possible to one another, and of course, to the pipe. In such a pipe, two or three channels are made and one ventilation is required. It is strictly forbidden to bring stove chimneys to the ventilation duct.

Wall chimneys are provided inside the main walls during their laying. In exceptional cases, it is allowed to arrange them in the outer walls, but for this, with inside the room needs thickening in the form of a pilaster. It should be borne in mind that in order to avoid cooling the chimney, which leads to condensation of vapors and deterioration of draft, from the chimney to the outer surface of the walls there should be: 2.5 bricks with a wall 3 bricks thick, 2 bricks with a wall 2.5 bricks thick and 1.5 bricks with a wall 2 bricks thick. In order not to weaken the strength of the walls, chimneys should not be located in the corners and at the intersections of the walls. If the walls are made of silicate brick, cinder concrete, adobe, raw brick or natural stone, then the chimneys are made of ordinary (red) brick with a thickness of at least half a brick. The walls and partitions between the chimneys must also be at least half a brick.

Connecting stoves to chimneys

Figure 81 shows the root pipes and the connection to them separately of the stove and stove - the kitchen hearth. If, however, two furnaces are connected to one chimney, and especially on different floors, then the draft of the upper furnaces by the furnaces of the lower floor may be interrupted. In exceptional cases, it is permissible to connect two stoves located on the same floor to one chimney. To do this, a cut is made in the common channel, but there is a partition from 750 to 1000 mm high (Fig. 82), or furnaces are attached at different levels. This is done to prevent oncoming traffic. flue gases. At the same time, it must be remembered that the size of the total smoke channel must be at least 140 × 270 mm.

When the root pipe or wall chimneys are at some distance from the stoves, the latter are connected to the chimneys using a branch pipe or a reversible sleeve (horizontal smoke channel) lined with bricks in a roofing steel case no more than 2000 mm long (Fig. 83).

The reversible sleeve is made on beams of angle steel, which rest with one end on the wall with chimneys or on the main pipe, and with the other - on the wall of the furnace. The walls and bottom of the sleeve are laid out of brick on the edge (a quarter of a brick), and the overlap or top of the sleeve is made of two rows of flat brick laying.

To remove soot from the sleeve, a cleaning door is arranged in it. The reversible sleeve is made with a rise in the direction of the movement of gases at an angle of 10 °, which provides better traction, while strictly observing fire safety requirements. When the ceiling is protected from fire (plastered, upholstered with two layers of felt or asbestos, roofing steel), then the distance between the top of the pipe and the ceiling must be at least 380 mm, and if the ceiling is not protected from fire, then the sleeve must be at least 500 mm apart. The same conditions are observed when the pipe is located near combustible walls and partitions.

Sometimes a flip sleeve is made not indoors under the ceiling, but in the attic, calling it a hog, but this is very dangerous in terms of fire. It is best to bring out a pipe from each furnace. Such pipes are convenient for cleaning soot and caring for them. In addition, hogs often reduce the draft in the furnace, which is not always good.

Location of pipes above the roof

Chimneys are located in the building so that they go as close as possible to the ridge of the roof, above which the pipe head is made. In packed pipes, these conditions depend on the location of the furnace in the room. As chimney located on top of the roof, that is, its head is exposed to various atmospheric phenomena, it is recommended to put it not on clay, but on lime, cement-lime or cement mortar. The height of the pipe above the roof depends on how far it is from the ridge (Fig. 84). The head is brought out 500 mm above the ridge if it is located no further than 1.5 m from the ridge along the horizontal line drawn. The head is led out to the level of the roof ridge if it is at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the ridge and below the level of the roof ridge to a straight line at an angle of 10 ° to the horizon, when the pipe is more than 3 m from the ridge. The pipe in all cases must rise above the roof level by at least 500 mm. If the pipe is located close to a high wall or trees with a dense crown, it is built up with a steel or asbestos-cement pipe to avoid overturning the smoke by the wind.

Smoke channels, depending on the power of the furnaces, can be of various sizes: 1 / 2 × 1 / 2 bricks for furnaces with heat output up to 3000 kcal / h, l / 2 × 3 / 4 for furnaces with heat output up to 4500 kcal / h and 1 / 2 ×1 brick in furnaces with a heat output of up to 6000 kcal / h with two fireboxes per day, but there may be other sizes that are found in the orders of furnaces.

Below are the dimensions of the smoke channels:

Note. Depending on the thickness of the joints, these dimensions may be smaller, for example channel A 130 × 130 mm, etc.

Depending on the size of the channel, the masonry is carried out in different ways (Fig. 85): four bricks, five, six or four bricks with two three-fours - this is channel D, etc.

In the figures, the channels are indicated by letters, and the rows by numbers. Odd rows - number 1, even - number 2. In the process of laying, the rows alternate. They are made from whole bricks, whole bricks and three-fours or halves. All this is required for dressing the seams. Certainly, best pipe one that is made of a whole brick, best masonry one in which the middle of the brick of the upper row falls above the vertical seam of the lower row. It is called a half-brick dressing, which provides high masonry strength. It is not always necessary to correctly bind the masonry through one row along the entire height. Figure 86 shows the laying of two paired channels. If they are laid out to their full height in alternating rows B and C, then the outer walls of the masonry will have the correct dressing, providing the necessary strength. The wall dividing the pipe into two channels will not have proper ligation, since the bricks being laid are always close to the outer walls. When cleaning the pipe, the inner wall can be easily destroyed. To prevent this from happening, after every four alternating rows B and C, it is necessary to lay out one row D, placing the brick as shown in the figure.

When chipped brick is used for laying pipes, the hewn edge should be placed outward, and the smooth one inward. This is necessary because when the brick is hewn, its structure is disturbed and tiny cracks form on the hewn surface, which can easily grow and collapse under the action of hot flue gases.

Pipe laying with fluff and otter

Before proceeding with the laying of the pipe, you should know what main parts it consists of. The saddle pipe is always installed on the furnace, that is, on the ceiling, which is not brought two or three or more rows to the interfloor ceiling, or on the neck of the furnace, that is, the neck of the fluff. In the neck of the furnace, you can put a valve or, as an addition, a view.

Above the neck of the furnace, when approaching the interfloor ceiling, the masonry is expanded, forming a cutting or fluff with a thickness, counting from smoke, of 260 or 380 mm. Spread it in several rows of masonry in height. Above the fluff, a riser passes through the attic space, that is, a flat part of the pipe, which is brought to the very roof. Above the roof, a second fluff is performed, called an otter, which hangs 100 mm above the roof on all four sides. This overhang provides a drain atmospheric water on the roof. If this is not done, then the water will flow down the riser, destroying it and moistening the attic space. Above the otter, lay the neck of the pipe of the same section in terms of outer dimensions as the riser. Further, the masonry is broadened, forming a head. To protect the pipe from destruction, a cap or weather vane made of roofing steel is installed above it, which, in addition to safety functions, also improves draft in furnaces (Fig. 87).

All protruding parts of the pipe above the roof should be covered with roofing steel or treated cement mortar, giving it a slope that ensures the runoff of water. Pipes are best plastered with cement-lime or cement mortar and whitewashed with lime. Plastered pipes last longer.

As mentioned above, the cross section of the chimney channels can be different and it is necessary to lay the fluff and the otter in a different way, but strictly bandaging the seams. Consider laying fluff and otters with channels of different sections.

Fluff and otter masonry with a smoke channel 140×270 mm(Fig. 88). Depending on the thickness of the joints, the dimensions of the channel can be 10 mm smaller. Fluff and otter masonry is considered in such a way that they increase in length and width by 1/4 brick (60-70 mm) in each row, which mainly depends on the thickness of the joints.

The laying of fluff begins at some distance from the ceiling of the furnace, on which the tube is settled. This distance may consist of several rows of masonry, often referred to as the kiln neck. In this case, the fluff consists of six rows.

The first row is the neck of the pipe, made of five bricks with the dimensions of the smoke channel 140×270 mm and the outer sides 510×380 mm.

The second row is the beginning of fluffing with external dimensions 590×450 mm. To obtain such dimensions, fours and halves of bricks are inserted into the masonry. Inside the fluff, to limit the size of the channel, "plates" are inserted, a chipped brick 30-40 mm thick. The size of the smoke channel in all rows of fluff masonry remains unchanged.

The third row of fluff has dimensions of 650×510 mm. Inside the fluff masonry, “plates” of brick about 6 cm thick are inserted.

The fourth row has external dimensions of 710×570 mm. Bricks 90-100 mm thick are inserted inside the fluff.

The fifth row is laid completely from a whole brick.

The sixth row is the same as the fifth, only the dressing of the seams is strictly observed. With an increase in the height of the fluff, the fifth and sixth rows alternate.

The seventh row is the beginning of laying the pipe riser in five bricks. It is brought one or two rows above the roof level, and then an otter is erected.

It is placed on the riser with careful dressing of the seams. This masonry is considered in nine rows. Each row protrudes 1/4 brick forward. In the middle, that is, inside the otter near the smoke channel, brick plates are inserted of such thickness that they do not reduce or increase the size of the channel.

The first row is laid in five bricks. He is a stand up.

The second row only increases the masonry in length with a protrusion of 1/4 brick on both sides, for which you have to insert a half and a three-four, and put a brick plate inside the otter in the channel.

The third row is laid so that its length remains unchanged, and the width on one side (the lower part of the otter) is increased by only half a brick to form an overhang.

The fourth row is laid as shown. The overhang also increases from the sides.

The fifth row is performed as shown in order.

The sixth row is laid out so that the overhang on the sides is lengthened. Its width and length are equal to two bricks.

The seventh row completely completes the laying of the overhang on three sides.

The eighth row is laid according to the order and an overhang is released from the last fourth side.

The ninth row is laid like the eighth, with careful observance of the dressing of the seams.

The tenth row shows the laying of the neck of the pipe in five bricks. Having laid out the neck of the pipe completely, they proceed to the head, the laying of which is not difficult, since it is performed in the same order as fluffing.

In the considered version of the masonry of the otter, one should pay attention to the fact that its right side, starting from the second row, widens by a quarter of a brick compared to the masonry of the riser. You can not do this, but leave it the same as the riser. This will be discussed below.

To ensure the runoff of water from the head of the pipe and the otter and protect them from rapid destruction, cement mortar is poured on them, leveled so that it has a bevel, and smoothed down.

Fluff masonry with a smoke channel 270×270 mm(Fig. 89), with a wall thickness of 380 mm, counting "from smoke", is not much different from the previously considered option. Careful bandaging of seams and laying of brick parts is also required. different thickness: fours, halves, three-fours.

The first row is the neck of the pipe, made of six bricks with an outer dimension of 510×510 mm, with a smoke channel of 270×270 mm.

The second row is the beginning of fluffing with external dimensions of 640×640 mm. The laying is carried out from a whole brick, only for the inside of the fluff, the brick has to be pricked along the length into two parts.

The third row with external dimensions of 770 × 770 mm is completely laid from a whole brick.

The fourth row with external dimensions of 910 × 910 mm is laid using a whole brick and its parts.

The fifth row with external dimensions of 1030 × 1030 mm is laid out from a whole brick.

The sixth row is the same as the fifth, only the dressing of the seams is different. If necessary, increase the height of the fluff by laying out alternately the fifth and sixth rows.

The seventh row is similar to the first and is a pipe riser.

otter put on a riser in six bricks. It consists of seven rows.

The first row is a pipe riser made of six bricks.

The second row is the first row of otter masonry with broadening on one side to form an overhang.

In the third row, overhang bricks are laid on both sides.

In the fourth row, the overhang on the sides is extended and brought to one and a half bricks.

The fifth row is similar to the third, with an overhang length on each side of up to two bricks.

The sixth row completely completes the design of the overhang. Inside the otter, 1/4 bricks are laid, that is, without reducing the size of the smoke channel.

The seventh row is similar to the sixth, only the difference is in the dressing of the seams. The thickness of the overhang becomes equal to two rows of masonry. If you want to increase the height of the otter, then the last two rows alternate.

Above the otter, the neck of the pipe is placed in six bricks, over which a head is made.

It should be pointed out that when laying otters, some bricks have to be given the desired shape by chipping them in places.

From the two examples of fluff and otter masonry considered, it can be seen that brick masonry is a rather complicated job. The easiest way to make them from reinforced concrete.

For reinforcement, 5-7 mm steel (iron) wire is used at the rate of four to five bars on each side of the plate. Two bars of reinforcement must necessarily lie on the brickwork.

A fluff slab or otter can be made on site or separately and then laid. In both cases, it is necessary to make formwork. When manufacturing the product on site, the formwork is fixed as firmly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork should be at least 250 mm "from smoke", but it is better to leave 380 mm. It's more secure. Along the edges of the formwork, bars or boards are nailed so that they rise above the formwork to the desired thickness of the slab (at least 50 mm for fluffing). A board or plywood should be inserted into the pipe channel so that concrete does not get into the channel.

The work is done like this. Install and fix the formwork. Cooking right amount fittings. Prepare concrete or cement mortar. To prevent concrete or mortar from sticking strongly to the formwork, it can be painted with liquid clay mortar. A layer of concrete or mortar is applied to the formwork, equal to half the thickness of the future product, it is well compacted and the reinforcement is laid so that it is at least 2 cm from the edges of the slab. Then the remaining material is laid, it is well compacted and leveled (Fig. 90). The laying of the pipe riser on the slab is usually carried out. To prevent the brick from firmly seizing with concrete, the latter is covered with a thin layer of clay mortar at the place of its laying, or simply laying is carried out on the mortar. Formwork should be removed no earlier than three weeks later.

The manufactured slab serves as a support for fluffing, which is made of bricks, without connecting it with the pipe laying.

A plate of the desired size can also be made in advance, but you should know that 1 sq. m of a plate with a thickness of 10 mm weighs about 25 kg.

To make fluffing easier, you can do this. Four slabs are made of such a size as to line them (strengthen on clay mortar) with a pipe, and four side slabs, installing them along the edges of the supporting slab, firmly fastening and smearing all the cracks. The height of the plates should be 250-300 mm. The "box" obtained in this way is filled with brickwork, fuel slag or slag mixed with clay, or lime, or sand, or dry earth without vegetable impurities (Fig. 91). It is much better to make side railings from two halves. But you can make a plate immediately with sides.

An otter is made either in the form flat plate 20-30 mm thick, or sloped slabs. The plate is well reinforced. It should hang over the pipe on all sides by at least 100 mm. At the bottom of the otter, teardrops are sure to be arranged, that is, grooves with a depth of at least 5 mm, placing them from the edges by 10-15 mm (Fig. 92). They will protect the clay solution from erosion, attic floor- from moisture.

Brick pipes above the roof should be plastered with cement-lime or cement mortar, as well as 50-100 mm below the roof.

Otter, neck and head can be made from a monolithic or precast concrete thickness from 30 to 50 mm.

We remind you once again that brick and other pipes must be inspected at least once, preferably twice a year, and if defects are found, they must be corrected immediately.

Asbestos-cement pipes

Such pipes are often installed instead of brick ones. They are durable, lightweight and have no seams. They are installed on masonry or concrete slab simple, and preferably special manufacture, where a recess or coupling is made for the pipe.

The area of ​​the pipe opening must correspond to the area of ​​the furnace flue. The slab for the pipe is preferably made of reinforced concrete, square shape, monolithic or prefabricated, consisting of two halves. Along the edges of the slab, boards of the required height are arranged to form fluff. The space between the pipe and the sides is filled with brick, cinder block, sand, earth, etc. Installed pipe should be firmly fixed in the attic.

An otter for such a pipe is made square or round shape, monolithic or prefabricated, from two halves, which are firmly fastened after installation on the pipe and well coat the seams with cement mortar. A teardrop is also arranged under the otter (Fig. 93).

In order for the otter to hold onto the pipe more firmly and not fall down, a cement sleeve is placed under it, or a solution is smeared with a thick layer only under the otter. It is advisable to slightly cut the pipe under the plaster or make two-, three-millimeter cuts with a rasp. It is also recommended to prepare a place for a monolithic otter. The top of the otter is made with a slope, and the seam between it and the pipe is coated with cement mortar. It is best to put a cap on the top of the pipe.

The disadvantage of asbestos-cement pipes can only be attributed to the fact that they are thin-walled, quickly heat up and cool down, and this can lead to condensation. Therefore, such pipes, both above the roof and the part located in attic space, insulate.

Pipe insulation

Ways to insulate pipes can be different.

Plastering. Brick pipes are inspected, if necessary, repaired, and then plastered with lime-slag mortar, with a small addition of cement. Plaster thickness - 50-70 mm. The slag must be fine, screened, no larger than 5 mm and necessarily washed. It is difficult to keep plaster of this thickness, it will often fall off. Therefore, the pipe must be prepared by arranging reinforcement around it or stretching the mesh, but so that the mesh and reinforcement are in the thickness of the plaster, that is, they must retreat from the pipe by 20-30 mm. For reinforcement, a wire with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm is used, located 10 mm apart and braiding them thin wire, placing it through 15-20 mm. Before plastering, the pipe is moistened with water. Apply first thin layer liquid solution(splash), and then three to five layers of pasty solution. The last layer is well leveled and overwritten. After drying, possible cracks are cut, covered and overwritten, and then whitewashed with lime or chalk paint.

Cladding with concrete slabs. Plates of the desired length, width, thickness 40-50 mm are made. For strength, they can be reinforced. The pipe is lined with plates, fixing them with wire, and the seams are carefully coated with gypsum mortar.

Cladding with reinforced concrete slabs. They are made with a thickness of up to 20-25 mm, well reinforcing. Their size should be such that after installation there is a space of 50-70 mm between them and the pipe on all sides. Plates are installed around the pipe, fastened with wire, and the space is covered with dry fireproof thermal insulation materials(slag, expanded clay).

Closing with shields. A wooden frame is made from a tesa of the required length, and the width is taken such that after installation it is located at a distance of 100-120 mm from the outer walls of the pipe.

The frame is lined with slate and the upholstered side is placed against the pipe, firmly fastened together. The seams are smeared, and the top under the roof is covered with gypsum or concrete tiles, also smearing all the cracks.

The space between the shields and the pipe can be covered with fireproof heat-insulating materials.

Asbestos-cement pipes are also insulated in the same way.

Regardless of the fireproof materials used, insulated pipes should be periodically inspected and even the smallest defects should be corrected immediately.

Upon inspection, the lining, shields and frame are removed.

For fire safety, the attic space and the pipes passing there must be kept in perfect order.

The technology of laying a brick chimney in itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot but take into account the enormous importance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of the heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it. Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, based on the recommendations experienced craftsmen and on developed and tested design schemes.

When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than aesthetics. outdoor masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the furnace depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are brick chimneys?

Chimneys of brick ovens can have different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how much heating appliances will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

• Wall-mounted chimneys . The most widely used constructions are packed pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not occupy at all additional space indoors, but are simply a vertical extension of the oven.

They are erected on top of the last row of bricks covering the furnace, around the left hole. Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, truss system and rise above the roof.

• Indigenous chimneys . This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating appliances located on one or even several floors.

In addition to metal, brick ovens can also be connected to such a pipe. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in neighboring rooms. For example, for the kitchen you need a stove with a hob, and for the next room - only a heating one. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a root chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heaters are connected. Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to calculate the size of the internal chimney channel very accurately, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously. The answer to the question why may be different.

• Wall chimneys line up near the main (external or internal) walls or are built into them. They can be used, just like the main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of the building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is, as it were, outside the living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the first floor of the house a fireplace can be built and connected to the wall chimney (there the pipe will be more like a wall chimney according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a chimney pipe is embedded metal furnace(in the same way as in the version with the root requirement).

The disadvantages of this version of the chimney are the considerable cost of the project and the complexity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material. Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise winter period, with temperature changes, condensate will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the indoor area and lead the pipe along the inner wall of the house.

Parameters of brick chimneys

The main sections of the brick chimney

A brick chimney is divided into departments that have an owl purpose and are named differently. These features must be immediately clarified so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe.

1 - Pipe head. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted into outside to get a kind of "visor", as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the pipe walls from atmospheric precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter over its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowing.

3 - "Otter" has more complex scheme masonry, as it has a protective function. Firstly, the laying of the "otter" hanging over the gap formed at the junction roofing material and the walls of the pipe, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of a waterproofing material. Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the place of passage through the roofing, due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.

4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the junction of the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Fluffing" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits passage through the attic floor. The walls of the "fluff", like the "otter", have greater thickness, than others flat areas chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they cannot be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.

7 - The riser is a straight section of the pipe, which has an even masonry along the entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.

8 - Attic floor.

9 - An umbrella cap is often fixed on top of the head, which will protect the internal chimney channel from water and debris entering it.

You may be interested in information about what is

The main function of the chimney is to effectively remove combustion products from the combustion chamber into the atmosphere. To do this, the chimney is connected to numerous channels located in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater, good draft should be created inside the channels, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will fly out of the furnace literally “into the pipe”. In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Cross section of the chimney channel

For selection correct parameters section of the chimney channel, you need to take into account the power of the furnace, as well as the size of the combustion chamber. The flue ducts will remain clean longer if their inner walls are made smooth, without protrusions and sagging of the solution.

For this reason, during the laying of bricks, the excess masonry mortar that has come out in the seams must be cleaned off not only from the outer, but also from the inner walls. Some owners of houses equipped with fireplaces or stoves also use another way to achieve the smoothness of the walls of the channel - they install a ceramic pipe called an inlay inside the brick chimney.

The advantage of this design is not only that the inlay has absolutely smooth inner walls. It is round in cross section, that is, it has no corners, which means that the smoke flows will not encounter obstacles in their path and, at the same time, unnecessary turbulences and the “back draft” effect will not be created.

On the right in the illustration, the "ideal" movement of the flow of hot gases, which are in the pipe round section twist into a regular spiral and meet no resistance.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account the fact that chimneys with a large width, which are still installed in old houses, often have bad traction. This is due to the fact that the air heated in the furnace in a large space inside the pipe cools quickly, which leads to the formation of condensate, which contributes to a decrease in thrust, as well as smoke in the premises, and the channel quickly overgrows with soot. To heat a stove with such a chimney design, you will need to use too much fuel. Therefore, it would be most rational to fix them by dismantling a wide upper part chimney, then narrowing the shaft and installing a round or square with rounded corners, ceramic, metal or asbestos insert into it.

Now from the form - to linear parameters. The size of the internal section of the chimney channel is one of the most important characteristics, since the efficiency of the furnace directly depends on this. The correct ratio of the power of the heater and the dimensions of the pipe section must be observed. Another guideline for determining the correct size of the channel can be the opening of the blower door - in any case, the cross section of the pipe should not be less than the blower hole.

The cross section of the chimney shaft, relative to the size of the combustion chamber window, can be determined as follows. For fireplaces with an open firebox, the size of the chimney opening is on average 1:10. However, depending on the shape of the section and the height of the pipe, this indicator may vary in one direction or another. Approximate values ​​of the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel (in percent) are shown in the table below.

Ratiof/F in % (f is the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney channel;F is the area of ​​the combustion chamber window)

It is clear that in addition to the size of the furnace window, it is also necessary to build on the reasonable height of the pipe - it will look absolutely ridiculous, for example, a huge 10-meter pipe on the roof of a small squat country house.

The calculation itself is easy. According to the table, based on the height of the pipe and the shape of its internal channel, the optimal f / F ratio is determined. Then, based on the area of ​​​​the furnace window, it will not be difficult to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channel. Well, then, using geometric formulas, it remains only to bring the resulting value to linear dimensions - the diameter for round pipe or the length of the sides for a rectangle.

This calculation algorithm is implemented in the calculator below.

The brick chimney is essential element furnace heating system. It removes combustion products and creates thrust for intake. fresh air into the furnace of the heating device. masonry chimney brick - complex building process. It requires certain skills and knowledge.

What are brick chimneys - requirements, size, configuration

There are three types of chimneys.

1. Mounted construction. She continues to bake. This chimney is mounted on concrete pipe fixed on the floor. Its slab is reinforced and must have a thickness of at least 5 cm.
2. Root construction. A separate foundation is being built for it. The root pipe is rarely used and only in cases where it is impossible to make a chimney of another type.
3. Wall outlet channel. It is built in the internal load-bearing walls of brick or stone.

Sometimes the construction of a wall chimney is carried out in an external load-bearing wall. Then additional work needs to be done:

1. Thicken the wall from the inside (in the form of a pilaster) in the area where the pipe will pass.
2. Stop hypothermia of the chimney, it will reduce draft due to steam condensation. To do this, it is necessary to maintain the required distance from the pipe to the outer plane. bearing wall.

What to consider when building a chimney

Pipe laying should be carried out so that between it and outside there was a sufficient distance from the load-bearing wall - see the table with dimensions.

Chimneys are not allowed to be laid out in the corners of rooms and in areas where walls intersect. If the building is residential, the wall thickness of the pipe must be at least 10 centimeters. Complete tightness of the structure should be ensured; it should not let combustion products through.

Often the house is made of concrete, cinder and foam blocks, a silicate variety of brick. In this case, the sections of the walls along which the chimney will pass must be laid out of red brick. Their minimum thickness should be 12 cm. This requirement also applies to piers, partitions between smoke-removing channels.

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Before you lay out a brick chimney with your own hands, you should consider fire safety standards:

• the gap from the outer plane of the chimney to the walls of flammable materials must be at least 40 cm.
• in the areas of the passage of the chimney through the ceilings, it is necessary to make thickenings (edge).

The chimney channel along its entire length should be assembled so that its dimensions inner space were constant.

Structure height

The vertical length of the pipe most of all affects the efficiency of traction. A well-built chimney should have a height of at least 5 m. Great importance it also has a height difference between the roof plane and the pipe head.

1. The top of the chimney must be flush with the ridge. Or rise slightly above it at a distance of no more than 3 m from it.
2. If the roof is flat, then the smoke outlet should rise above it by at least 1.2 m.
3. The distance from the grate of the furnace to the pipe mouth must be at least 5 m.
4. The height of the chimney above the roof depends on the point of its exit relative to the ridge or parapet. This value varies from 0.5 to 1.5 m.

Construction cross section

The dimensions of the chimney must be no less than the cross section of the outlet pipe of the stove. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the smoke channel of the structure, based on the heat output of the heating device.

The cross section of the channel must correspond to the volume of combustion products passing through it and be not less than:

• 13 × 13 cm for stoves with heat output up to 3.5 kW;
• 13×25 cm for analogues with heat transfer more than 3.5 kW;
• under the Russian stove, which has a large portal, you should fold a brick pipe with a section of 26 × 26 cm with your own hands.

Which brick is better to use

High-quality work on pipe laying is possible only with the use of the best materials. Carefully burnt red full-bodied kiln bricks are used for the construction of the chimney structure. Suitable for work and refractory fireclay blocks. The grade of the material must be at least M-200.

When a brick chimney is laid with your own hands, you need to choose evenly painted blocks with clear edges. In this case, they can be placed on a minimum layer of mortar. The blocks must be single, that is, have dimensions of 25 × 12 × 6.5 cm.

When removing the chimney to the roof, you can use single and double silicate brick brand M-150. They have high level frost resistance.

What mortar is used for masonry

When working, the stove-maker can use different masonry mixtures:

1. Clay-sand mortar is used for laying red brick. Its proportions are 1:2. If the clay is very oily, then 3-4 volume fractions of sand are added.
2. When installing refractory blocks, it is kneaded masonry mortar from refractory clay, fireclay and sand. The proportion of the mixture is 1:1:2.
3. To install the chimney in the attic, you can use a cement-lime-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:1:2.
4. For roof top can be applied cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:2.

The mortar for laying the stove chimney after mixing it with water should have a creamy consistency.

masonry rules

The cross section of the structure must be a multiple of the dimensions of the bricks. The thickness of the outer pipe walls of the wall-mounted structures must be at least half a brick. Thickness external walls the bottom of the root structures for greater stability should be equal to a whole brick with a transition at the top to half a block.

Air ducts inside the structure should be placed in a vertical direction. It is impossible to mount hogs horizontally at the level of attic floors. This is required by fire safety regulations.

Each stove must be equipped with its own chimney. Rarely, a project allows two heaters to be connected to one channel. They should have a single-level arrangement, with a height cut of 75 cm or more.

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When installing two heaters (or a stove and an exhaust network), two channels can be connected in one riser. Their sizes remain the same. However, the installation of a two-channel chimney with a half-brick cross-section of half-brick channels is done in incomplete blocks. Five solid and two ¾ bricks are placed in each row. In this case, a reliable ligation of the masonry is achieved.

Mounting double design(chimney and ventilation duct) with the size of the channels half per solid block, made with eight bricks. If it is carried out when alternating even and odd levels, it will not be possible to connect the delimiting partition with masonry outer wall. Therefore, the alternation must be done through three rows.

The first level is assembled from eight solid blocks. In the second, five whole and four ¾ blocks are placed. With this layout, the reliability of the structure increases.

Design features and pipe departments

Before you start laying a brick chimney with your own hands, you should study its design:

1. The first part of the chimney is the lower neck of the structure. She is placed on her shoulders. A valve is mounted in it. When mounting the neck, the bricks are tied up.
2. Fluff is laid at a distance of 5-6 brick levels from the ceiling. This extension goes up to the attic.
3. The part of the device that is laid out with one's own hands in the under-roof room is called the riser. It goes to the base of the roof.
4. An otter is laid out from the roofing. It expands on all sides by at least 10 cm. This element The device prevents precipitation from entering the house.
5. Next, the neck is laid out. Its dimensions are the same as those of the main pipe trunk.
6. Then the cap is placed. A deflector is mounted on it, which protects the chimney from precipitation.

Stages and process of laying a brick stove chimney

You should have a chimney diagram with its order in your hands. According to it, you must carry out the construction.

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Here step by step process masonry stove chimney:

1. Prepare tools, materials and solution.
2. Take measurements to the gate and fluff.
3. Start laying blocks (mortar thickness should be 5-10 mm) pipes from the stove. Check the evenness of all rows with a level in all planes. After 3-4 levels, clean the channel from excess solution.
4. Fix the frame at the gate mounting point. It should not disturb the position of the top of the bricks. Therefore, cut a recess in them according to the dimensions of the frame.
5. Continue the construction of the structure to the level of the fluff. Calculate the number of rows that will need to be laid out to bring the fluff to the required size. Please note that in one row, the perimeter of the pipe increases by ¼ of the block width. The fluff should fit snugly with the floor beams. When they are located at a distance from the chimney structure, make persistent frames.
6. Next, in order, mount the fluff. It can be made square or rectangular.
7. For the calculated number of rows, go from fluff to the main dimensions of the riser. Bring it to the roof.

How to make a hole for a stove chimney in the roof

The dimensions of the hole in the roofing should be calculated accurately. Having laid the chimney up to the roof, use a plumb line and a hammer with a nail to mark angular dimensions roof structures. Do it from the side of the attic.

Connect the holes punched with a nail with a pencil. So you get a rectangular projection of the section of the structure on the surface of the roofing. Then count 10 cm from all sides of the figure and draw a small rectangle inside it.

Connect the corners of the figures and cut out the smaller one by sawing the coating along the lines connecting the corners. Unscrew the resulting four strips along the leaning board. Do this so that they almost reach the vertical. Then the roofing will tightly press against the wall of the chimney fixture.

Cover the remaining unprotected triangular gaps between the strips at the corners of the chimney inside with mortar, leaning bricks against them. Do the same outside.

Placement of the chimney above the roof

At the level of the roofing, begin to mount the otter. The instruction says that it is more difficult to lay it down than fluff. The building must be expanded carefully and gradually. Taking into account the slope. When laying a brick chimney with your own hands, it is required to increase the stability of the structure. Therefore, wall steel plates into the otter and fix them to the rafters.

File the ends of the blocks. So you reduce the gap between the otter and the roof. You can do it differently: between the bottom of the pipe element and the roof lining, put sheet metal. It will not allow precipitation to seep onto the rafters and into the attic.

Installation of the chimney is completed by arranging the head and installing a deflector on it.

Conclusion

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Do-it-yourself brick pipe laying is complex and laborious process. Before him, it is necessary to carry out calculations and draw up a diagram of the structure. When laying, you must strictly adhere to it and follow all the rules of construction.

The purpose of the chimney- not only increase traction, but also raise gases as high as possible above the ground. The higher the chimney, the stronger the draft in the furnace. And I would say that strong traction in stoves for housing and communal purposes is not needed, they need normal traction, and it takes 75% of the heat generated by fuel from the best stove to the street.

A pipe standing on a furnace is called a pipe, a pipe standing separately on the ground is called a root pipe. There are pipes located on the main walls of brick buildings, they are close to the indigenous ones. But there are rude ones that do not belong to either the built-in or the indigenous ones, because they are located in the attic of rural houses on special elevations - platforms. From the furnace to such a pipe, a horizontal gas flue - a hog - is brought on weight.

Packed pipe starts immediately at the top of the furnace ceiling. Over its entire height, the necessary overlaps are laid out in three places. The first laps (fire cut) are made in the ceiling opening, they expand the pipe to right size. In the old days, the pipe was used to judge the character of the owner, his position, his penchant for the architectural decoration of the house. All pipes were made only of bricks. Now, however, asbestos-cement and iron pipes are in vogue, and they are overgrown inside with tar emitted by combustible fuel, ignite, and asbestos-cement pipes burst.

brick pipe adds beauty to the home. You can lay out the pipe along the edge of the edged board, rail or twine, fixed from the ceiling to the roof in a vertical position. Almost all chimneys stand with two or three walls on the walls of the furnace, which have to withstand very heavy loads, so only high-quality bricks should be used when laying.

The most reliable chimney- from red well-annealed brick, folded on lime mortar. It is warm and fluffy. These pipes are durable. The seams in the pipes allow air to pass through, so they breathe and do not “sweat” inside. Do not lay the pipe on a solution consisting only of cement and sand. Such a solution is very dense, does not allow air to pass through and “sweats”, therefore streaks are formed, which, mixing with soot, pass through the seams of the furnace walls and not only spoil the whitewash with dirty spots, but also emit bad smell. In the absence of lime, clay diluted to the state of liquid sour cream can be added to the solution. The solution will become looser and there will be no soot streaks.

When they say: “It's time to close the pipe”, referring to valves or views, this indicates that the pipe starts above these devices. The hottest air, heat, comes to them from the firebox. It, like fire, burns fuel released during combustion. chemical substances. The pipe in which the draft is formed removes all odors from the stove and partially from the room, so they cannot and should not get from the stove into the room.

You can not put a chimney over a half-empty place. In such places, in Russian stoves, fireplaces, metal, reinforced concrete are laid or an arched ceiling is made. On stoves folded on edge, with a wall thickness of 65 mm, with a good dressing of the stove masonry, a pipe can be placed on top. It is impossible to narrow the gas ducts of the pipe, since the amount of soot deposited in the pipe and gas ducts depends on them. When the fuel ignites, a lot of smoke is released, and the flue of the pipe must be wide enough to quickly lead it to the street. Above ceiling(starting from cutting) the pipe is most often laid on a complex solution, and it is harder than clay mortar, the seams from it are thicker, so it is better to lay the pipe from cutting to the roof all the same on clay mortar. In each house, the pipe has its own height.

How to find out how much brick will go to the pipe. To do this, you need to measure the height of the future pipe from the top of the furnace plus 30 cm above the roof. The average row height is 7 cm. For example, the height of your pipe is 2 m 35 cm. And how many rows does it have? The height of the pipe is divided by the height of the row, 34 rows are obtained. 4 bricks are laid in one row of pipes. We multiply these 4 bricks by 34 rows, we get 136 bricks per pipe. But in three places of the pipe, more extensions must be made, which also require bricks, an average of 70 pieces. So, 210 bricks will go to such a pipe. If in one row of pipes not 4, but 5 bricks are laid, then according to these calculations, 240-270 bricks will go to such a pipe.

Cutting a pipe in a ceiling opening

Before laying the cutting (expansion) of the pipe, you need to check the horizontalness of the laying, determine how many rows are left to the ceiling, take into account the height of the cutting, draft, for example, a log house. The figure shows the cutting with a pipe flue size of 13.5 × 26 cm in a house that has already precipitated. If you make a cutting masonry at the same level in a new log house, then after its draft, the upper row of cutting will be in the attic, and the place where the cutting used to be will look like a hole. This means that in a new house, given its likely draft, cutting should begin at least 7-10 cm below the ceiling.

Cutting a pipe in a ceiling opening with a flue size of 13.5 × 26 cm

Keep in mind that each material has a different sediment. Depending on the height of the room and the oven, cutting will start a few centimeters higher or lower. If the cutting is one row lower, then the upper overlap will look a little wider, but since it is under the ceiling, after laying all the cutting rows will look the same in height. There is a rule: if you do not know the size of the draft at home, then it is better to cut the cutting below the ceiling. It is more convenient to cut the pipe in four overlaps A up to 3 cm according to the template, starting from the corner bricks and aligning the top and side of the row with the rule. The size of the flue in the cutting should be the same as it was at the beginning of the masonry (in the pipe riser), therefore, in the 1st row of cutting from the inside, quarters of brick B should be laid flush with the flue. It happens that cutting without dressing with the center falls off, because they can step on it from above when they walk in the attic. Therefore, it is necessary to connect the rows with the center.

Sometimes it is advised to make overlaps in the groove of more than 6 cm. However, with such an overlap, the brick simply turns out of the masonry from pressure from above. You need to know that when laying a cutting with an overlap, even 25 mm, the hanging brick still tries to bend over the void. In the 2nd row, the masonry is connected to the middle of the pipe. It can be laid as in row 2(a), where square dice are applied to the three-quarters, but they are more difficult to make. It is good to start letting in the 3rd and 4th rows from the gas duct, then the bricks will be fixed around it with the bottom row, and it is easier to lay the outer bricks against them with an overlap, but still, the part of the brick that is let in must be maintained for several seconds until the moisture from the solution is soak into the brick. The inner seam will hold the brick well from tilting.

The division is made for the purpose fire protection so the seams should be as thin as possible. The hewn or chipped part of the brick must be ground (levelled) with the plane of the brick or with an emery stone. Before something else is chipped off from an already chipped brick, you must first level the spall. It is best to make laps in the cutting in the first three rows of 32 mm. These overlaps allow you to make a gradual expansion of the pipe with the same step on each side to half a brick plus a seam. In the process of cutting, the laying of the 4th row starts from the gas duct from a whole brick.

In the 2nd row there are six seams B from the flue to the edge of the cut. This row is below the ceiling, so such seams are not dangerous. But if this laying is done in the middle of a wooden ceiling, then with incomplete seams and in the event of cracks due to uneven settlement of the furnace foundation, there is a risk of fire. To avoid this, near the parts of the combustible ceiling, the cutting is made in rings (3-6th rows) so that the seam from the gas duct overlaps with the middle of the G brick of the second, outer, ring. Since a thermal backfill is made from combustible materials (leaves, sawdust, peat, etc.) on top of the ceiling, the ceiling cutting is placed one or two rows above the backfill.

Cutting a pipe in a ceiling opening with a flue size of 13.5 × 13.5 cm

The masonry can be finished as shown in the usual orders, but in this case the upper rows in place D will not be interconnected and there is a feeling that they can disperse. For reliability, I did the masonry as shown in the pictures. From the top of such a row, a pipe begins, which will fix the cutting masonry. It would be nice to finish the top of the groove with 6 cm ledges around the entire groove, as shown in the 7th row, where the groove masonry was made with a pipe flue size of 13.5 × 13.5 cm.

Sometimes when laying in the middle of the ceiling opening, when the last bricks in a row are laid to each other with a thin seam, uncertainty is created in the strength of the seam. In this case, the seam must be sealed. They do it like this. The entire width of the hammer blade is inserted into the seam between the brick and the ceiling and, tilting the hammer, the blade presses the bricks closer together in the middle. An even pipe riser is laid to the roof.

Making a pipe hole in the roof

It is very important to accurately calculate the size of the hole for the pipe in the roof. Otherwise, having folded the oven, you will also have to resort to the services of a tinsmith. Much easier to take care of this in advance. When the pipe is folded to the level of the roof, it is necessary to transfer the dimensions of the pipe in the corners to the roof using a plumb line L, a hammer and a nail. It must be done from attic space(punch four holes in the roof with a nail according to the marking). By connecting four holes on the upper part of the roof with a pencil, we get rectangle B, which is a projection of the horizontal section of the pipe onto the plane of the roof. Next, you need to step back from each side of the rectangle by 7-10 cm and build another one inside it - a smaller rectangle B. If there are seams in the roofing gland D at the exit of the pipe, then they can be nailed (tumbled down) to the roof.

Corners D of the two resulting rectangles need to be connected, cut out a smaller rectangle B and cut the roof along the line connecting the corners. The resulting four strips E must be bent along the leaning bar (board) so that they do not slightly reach the vertical position. Then the iron will be more tightly pressed against the pipe wall. The remaining unprotected triangular voids between the sides (bent strips E) in the corners of the pipe are sealed from the inside with cement mortar, pressing the brick against them, and outside, above the iron sides, they are plastered.

Pipe laying above the roof

When laying pipes over the roof for scaffolding, I always used an ordinary wooden ladder 1. If it was not there, then I made it myself - I nailed it to a wide board wooden bars. To keep the ladder on the roof, at the top I nailed a strong wooden beam 2, which hooked on the roof ridge. If possible, it is good to put a ladder or a board with stuffed planks on the other side of the pipe. Through the hole for the pipe in the roof, bricks were stacked on top of the stairs 3. If the stairs were on both sides, then the brick was enough for the entire small pipe. However, it is better to lift the brick to the pipe from the street two or three times. So it will be more convenient to work.

On the rung of the stairs, the first brick lies with a spoon, one edge on the roof, the other with a slight advantage on the rung, because the stairs are low. If the first row is laid with pokes, like the second, then the brick will not hold. For the second (poke) row, there is more support. All the weight goes to the stairs. The brick can be placed above, on the next crossbar, and below. On such a platform of bricks, they often put not a box, but a bucket of mortar. The wider the staircase, the wider you can put a brick column.

During the laying of the pipe, when it is already higher than the roof, it is more convenient to put a bucket of mortar behind the pipe. Periodically it is necessary to check the verticality of the pipe laying. When the house is still without a roof or there is a large space around the pipe, the pipe may bend from pressure from above. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to temporarily nail a bar or board from below to the roof sheathing or close to the rafters to the pipe being erected, this will prevent the pipe from deviating from the vertical position.

In the place where the pipe exits to the roof, it is necessary to encircle the pipe with roofing iron to prevent precipitation from getting under the roof. To do this, above the roof on all sides of the pipe riser, an “otter” is made from the outer part - a recess where roofing iron is brought close to the pipe - a “collar”. The recess is obtained by overlapping rows of masonry on all sides of the pipe. The overlap is made at least 2.5 cm. Depending on the steepness of the roof slope, projections-laps A are made according to the number of rows in the fluff cabinet. Due to the different steepness of the roof slope, it is impossible to accurately draw a drawing of the fluff cabinet orders, this is the only place in the furnace where it is impossible to give exact orders. In order to lay out a pedestal above the roof in a pipe, and under it an “otter”, you need to make brick laps near the roof over the void. They can turn out where higher, where lower.

It is easier to lay masonry along the U-shaped formwork 1 out of three edged boards 7-10 cm wide, knocked down with small nails 2. Usually I put such formwork on the roof sheathing. The entire pipe on top of the roof is laid on a solution that is not destructible by precipitation, one row below the roof. If the roof rise allows, then the 1st row is laid on three sides at once, like the 2nd row. The rest of the masonry of the 1st row from the inside is flush with the pipe riser. All laps from the pipe are 3 cm each. From the 2nd row, laps B begin over the side walls. The height of the laps above the roof roof is at least 5-7 cm. If the height of the collar above the roof is lower than 10 cm, and the pipe is at the bottom of the roof, then heavy rains form a water stream on the roof, which can rise above the iron collar B. Water will wet the pipe and enter the room.

Collar shown only one contour line so that the masonry of the riser G of the pipe is visible. In the order of the pedestal above the pipe riser, the 1st row is placed with an overlap D only above the front wall, which is clearly visible from a different angle - in the order. I never laid out the 1st row in the middle of the cabinet in quarters, since gases go in the middle of the pipe, and when a lot of soot settles in the recess formed in the places of the missing quarters, it's time to clean the entire pipe. If you clean the pipe with a green broom, then soot will be removed from all corners. Usually quarters complicate the work, after a few years they usually fall out of the masonry into the bottom of the gas ducts. The 3rd row is laid on the 2nd row with dressing. They lengthen the laps above the side walls and make internal ledges in the side walls, expanding the gas duct in this place. So with each row in the place where the laps go, the size of the flue increases. Further along the board, laying continues with a constant overlap of incomplete bricks. 4th and 5th rows - the last before the overlap over back wall. They are above the roof, where there will be an iron collar behind the pipe.

Since debris (dust, leaves, etc.) always accumulates behind the pipe, the iron rusts in this place, forming holes in the collar. In order to increase the durability of the collar, I suggest making one of the side walls E 3 cm longer in the 4th and 5th rows. The masonry of the back wall will go obliquely. After laying at this wall, one corner in the roof will be higher, and around the pipe you will get a gutter with an inclination, from which debris will be washed away by rain. At the same time, the laying of the back wall becomes a little more complicated, since it will be necessary to cut the rectangular parts of the brick into oblique ones. Laying can be done and in the usual way- on the 3rd row without lengthening the wall, then the gutter will be without inclination behind the pipe. In the 6th row, the laying of the laps over the back wall is finished (shown in dotted line). The 7th row is placed exactly on the 6th row. The 8th row is let inside the pipe above the flue. From this row, the masonry is again made vertically along the pipe riser. Start laying the neck of the pipe to the desired height of five bricks in one row.

The pipe is finished with the masonry of the head from three rows with two overlaps - the 13-15th row. The masonry head is always exposed to precipitation, frost, gases. Frost freezes wet seams, and warm weather defrosts. Seams and masonry do not withstand temperature changes and are destroyed. In the masonry of the head there are many quarters of brick with thick seams. The seams get wet, and the frost gradually expands them. They become weak, and the solution spills out of the seams. To increase the life of the pipe, one should always think about how to lay the head so that almost no quarters are used, and the vertical seams are as thin as possible.

After laying on the ledges of the pedestal and the head of the pipe, an oblique packing is made of a strong cement mortar, which is good to “ironize” - sprinkle dry cement on top and smooth with a trowel. It serves to shed rainfall. Weak composition quickly collapses. Laying the neck of the pipe with sharp corners. If desired, you can chamfer the corners at the corners, as when plastering the corners. Laying the neck of the pipe with chamfered corners 4 cm on each side 3. If you chamfer less, then the beauty of the masonry will not be clearly visible from the ground. Pipe laying in this embodiment can be done in order. The corners of the pipe, like the corners of the house, are exposed to strong blows of cold winds. The wall thickness of the pipe is 12 cm. In places where corners are sheared, the thickness of the pipe is much greater (even after shearing it will be at least 14 cm).

The cutting of the corner to nothing to the chamfer of the corner begins in the 11th row, retreating from the bottom of the corner by 2 cm. From the 12th to the 1bth rows, brickwork with hewn corners is made of the same type with dressing. In the 17th row, a stitching is done, similar to what was done in the 11th row, but retreating 2 cm from the top of the fragility. The remaining 2 cm in this row make the corners more beautiful and create a cap and the best support, and masonry strength. The neck of the pipe will be eight rows, but for a higher pipe, this masonry can be continued. The 18-20th rows in the variant with corners are laid in the same way as 13-1 of the 5th rows in the variant without corners. The corners of the pipe are beveled, and there are two inlet rows in the head-cap. So the pipe looks more beautiful, but if you cover it with a galvanized iron cap, and put a rooster in profile on top, it will be even more beautiful.

Since the brick is of different sizes, before laying the pipe head, the 14th row is laid dry on the floor so that the laying of the row is divided into halves of the brick. The seam between the bricks is 5 mm. If we put the last 15th row of five bricks on this row vertically to the pipe riser, then a ledge of 6 cm will turn out around it. We need to divide these 6 cm into two rows, we get that in each row we need to make overlaps of 3 cm. In the upper row, the masonry is divided into whole bricks and halves, which makes it simpler.

Laying pipes already doing it in a laid out row on the floor. If the pipe is located from the roof ridge at a distance of up to 1.5 m, then it must be at least 25 cm higher than it. If the distance is more than 1.5 m, then the pipe may be low. Sometimes a brick falls off in layers from a plastered pipe. This happens when it is plastered with cement mortar. It is dense, air does not pass through it. Due to the temperature difference, condensation forms under the plaster, which destroys both the plaster and the brick. It is possible to plaster a pipe only with a solution in which there is slaked lime.