How to make a mansard roof at home. Do-it-yourself attic - an additional area of ​​\u200b\u200byour home

Modern attic- this is a room with inclined or partially inclined walls, and sometimes a ceiling. Due to the presence of an attic in the house, heat losses are significantly reduced, and any living space cannot be superfluous. So, the attic usually serves as a wonderful guest room, library, workshop, office and spacious dressing room.

Moreover, the design of a gable mansard roof can be both classic, with straight slopes, and its separate type - broken, more comfortable and modern. And each option has its own advantages!

You will be surprised, but under the concept gable roof able to hide amazing discoveries in the form of a displaced center, different angles and other architectural tricks. The potential is huge, while, for example, shed and hipped roofs are the least suitable for arranging an attic.

Generally speaking, there are only two main types of gable mansard roofs:

Option # 1 - attic under a classic gable roof

Here is the simplest example of a mansard roof design. So, along the load-bearing walls, the lower part of the ramp is fixed, presented in the form of right-angled triangles. They are collected like layered rafters, and additionally tied with contractions. Moreover, one of the sides is the future frame for the walls of the attic room and, at the same time, the support post. And the hanging rafters connect the upper part of the roof, with the help of a puff.

In general for the device attic space the usual gable mansard roof with gables is also suitable. Then what is the constructive difference between a conventional gable roof and a broken gable roof, which is also called a mansard? The fact is that when calculating and designing truss system The following parameters are taken into account first:

1. roofing weight.
2. The weight of the truss system.
3. Climatic features of the area.

But when designing a mansard roof, there are as many as five of these points:

1. roofing weight.
2. The weight of the truss system.
3. The weight of the materials included in roofing cake: heat, hydro and vapor barrier.
4. Weight of all elements interior decoration attic.

“Correct” skylights

A little complexity, in turn, is introduced by skylights - without them, after all, there is no way. In the case of a broken mansard roof, everything is simpler, the windows are made straight and do not particularly interfere with construction. But at the classic gable roof they will have to be built sloping, which causes a lot of trouble.

Skylights are good because the light from them spreads evenly throughout the room and there are no deaf side compartments. Depending on the shape of the roof itself, these can be straight, inclined, and in combination.

How to convert an ordinary roof into a mansard?

Often, an existing gable roof is converted into a mansard. This is because even at the construction stage they decided to save money and complete the coveted under-roof dwelling over time. Moreover, many really do this and everything turns out.

Let's put it this way: after all, it is better to design a mansard roof at the foundation design stage, it is both technologically more competent and more reliable, even if you will not insulate and finish it this season. But since they decided to redo the already finished gable - and this is possible. For example, there is no other option if you have purchased a ready-made house.

So, when remodeling, first of all, calculate the weight of the future mansard roof and bearing capacity existing foundation. talking plain language, you must make sure that the foundation has been built with a margin and is ready to support a little more weight than it is now.

The second step is to invite a specialist to look at the attic floor. Is it designed for furniture to stand on and people to walk on? And the fact that you safely step into the attic does not mean anything. Most types of roofing are also designed for the fact that from time to time a human foot will step on them - repairs need to be done, but not all the time. Everything is calculated and you can proceed to construction work? Then let's move on.

The most important task now before you is to decide whether you will change the shape of the roof. Yes, sometimes you have to raise the slopes and make a broken one out of a classic gable roof. This process is laborious, but everything is realizable. Reinforce the standard pitched roof with the help of triangular roof trusses, which are conveniently attached both to the roof and as separate elements.

And, the most crucial moment of reconstruction is the redistribution of the load. So, beams and rafters are reinforced with overlays that are connected by racks. Then puffs are attached to the struts and reinforced rafters. And if the load from the roof goes to the floor beams dispersed (this often happens when the trusses are located with a small step), then all these changes will help to change the direction of the load of the entire roof.

That is why it makes sense to plan the attic in advance, even if there are no funds for its implementation: at this stage, waterproofing is enough.

Open elements in the interior of the attic

Interestingly, in the design of modern mansard roofs there are also open elements: beams, parts of internal rafters and similar elements. All this effectively fits into the chosen interior style, and for construction you don’t need to worry, as if nothing was left in sight after finishing.

What's the interior? First, we are talking about a style like french provence. It welcomes bare wooden beams with a combination of pale white ceiling and walls, natural fabrics in small flower and just as environmentally friendly wooden furniture dark tones. Now in fashion! And even a huge beam in the middle of the attic is not capable of damaging this style. After all, as you remember, it was the French architect who came up with the idea of ​​using the under-roof space as a living space, and therefore such constructive trifles are quite harmoniously combined with the Provencal style, and sometimes they also act as the main style accents.

The second no less popular style is hi-tech. Here you can and should boldly display any elements of a truss system made of metal. The main thing is that only the metal itself be shiny and of high quality, with the same fastening. Additionally, leave the pipes of the ventilation system and any other engineering elements in sight if they look aesthetically pleasing. After all, this interior style is technical. Who likes this? Today's teenagers, programmers and any young people who are already sick of sugary classics in interiors or bored rude minimalism.

Here's a little excursion into the world modern design. Do not be surprised, but such an attic habitual to us has such a story - initially they lived in such premises creative people and bohemian. And part of this tradition has been preserved to this day. And therefore, if you are designing a house with a mansard roof, and you are worried about the presence of additional supports, beams or racks - of course, feel free to leave it, because this is not about the living room.

And here is something that is often generally forgotten when designing a mansard roof. It's a ladder! No matter how ridiculous it may sound, it also happens that already in the process of construction you have to do double work. Don't miss this moment!

Quite often, people decide to expand the usable area of ​​their homes by creating an attic. Traditionally, an attic is called a living room, equipped directly under the roof. That is, it is a kind of ennobled attic, in which you can live as comfortably as in any other room in the house.

The arrangement of the attic has many stages and important nuances. One of the most important parts of this work is the construction of a mansard-type roof, which is built without any problems with your own hands.

Preparation for the construction of the mansard roof

Do-it-yourself construction of a mansard-type roof should begin with the preparation of the necessary project documentation and performing structural configuration analysis. One of highlights, with which you need to decide first of all, is the slope of the slopes. The useful area of ​​​​the attic room directly depends on this parameter.

The walls of the attic can be completely vertical or have some slope. As long-term practice shows, the most the best option mansard-type roofs are a gable system, each slope of which has a break, passing approximately in the middle. The space under such a roof turns out to be as spacious and comfortable as possible for living.

If you look at the attic roofing system in section, you can see a kind of “pie”, the layers of which are represented by the finishing material, lathing, moisture insulation, truss system, ventilation gaps, insulation, ceiling slats, vapor barrier material and some decoration.

For the manufacture of the attic frame, consisting of appropriately assembled crates and rafters, natural wood is used. The preference is given to pine. It is important that the material is of the highest quality. Any kind of defects and damage will negatively affect the service life roof structure generally.

Almost any material is suitable for the finishing roof of a mansard roof. Here, the most attention should be paid to the personal preferences of the owner and his budget. Learn the basic properties of each available material and choose the most suitable one.

For example, metal tiles have the most modest level of sound insulation and worst values thermal conductivity, so if this particular material is used, special attention must be paid to the selection and installation of thermal insulation.

Typically, dense mineral wool is used to insulate mansard roofs. The insulation is laid in a layer of 20 cm or more. A simple plastic film is also suitable for protection against moisture. The main thing is that its thickness should be more than 0.5 mm. As for the vapor barrier, in the case of mansard roofs, it is best to use perforated film.

The main stages of the mansard roof device

The work begins with the calculation of a mansard-type roof and the preparation of a detailed project indicating all significant points. If the attic will be built in a new house, the construction of which has not yet been completed, all the required calculations, as a rule, are indicated in the project documentation for the house.

If an already finished building is being reconstructed, you first need to draw up a project. In the absence of proper skills, it is better to entrust this work to professionals, because. errors at the design stage can lead to a significant deterioration in the quality, reliability and durability of the entire structure as a whole.

The foundation of the building and load-bearing walls must be checked for any kind of damage. Next, you need to get rid of the old roofing system and install new rafters in accordance with the prepared project. After fixing all the provided rafters, insulation and moisture insulation are laid for ceilings and new structures. The end walls and the new roof slab must then be installed in the desired configuration.

It is very important to choose the materials that are best suited for arranging a mansard-type roof. The material at the same time should not be very heavy and as reliable as possible. In practice, wood has proven itself best.

The device of the truss system

In the process of building a mansard-type roof, special attention should be paid to the stage of erecting the truss system. this work is carried out in several stages. First, the Mauerlat is mounted, then the truss structure is fixed, then additional fasteners are installed, and at the end, the construction of the crate is carried out.

In the case of a mansard roof, the Mauerlat should be installed where the slope of the rafters is noted. If it is a gable roof, the element in question is fixed on two sides. In the event that the roof structure consists of 4 slopes, the main beams must be placed around the perimeter.

Most often, the bars are attached to the wall by creating concrete pouring with the use of special studs, due to which docking is made with pre-prepared holes in the Mauerlat bars. Galvanized studs from 10 cm in diameter are best suited for this task. Select the length in such a way that the fasteners protrude beyond the border of the concrete pour by at least 30 mm.

When choosing a section of bars for mounting a Mauerlat, be guided by the expected loads. The most popular option is a bar with a section of 150x150 mm. In rare cases, a material with a section of 200x200 mm is used.

Fix the studs at such a distance from each other that they are not at the joints of the rafters, otherwise there will be too many tie-ins per structural element, due to which it will simply weaken. For example, if the rafters are installed 100 cm apart, the studs can be installed at the same distance, only in such a way that they are between the rafters.

Before mounting the Mauerlat, it is strongly recommended to perform waterproofing work. Most often, roofing material is used to ensure moisture protection. If you wish, you can choose other materials with similar characteristics. In the Mauerlat bars, you need to prepare holes of the same size as the size of the studs. After the bars are installed, it is necessary to install washers on the studs and securely fix the entire system with nuts.

Mauerlat bars are best fastened with galvanized studs. If the work is carried out in a brick building, it is recommended to mount the fixing studs in a brick insert at the stage of wall construction.

Proceed to fixing the roof trusses. It is better to prepare a template in advance that can be used during the assembly process. Climb onto the roof and fasten the wooden bars at the required angle, prepare necessary fasteners and mark the locations for the mounting cutouts. Next, you can work on the ground using the prepared sample to assemble all the roof trusses. When everything is completed, you simply lift the finished structures up and fix each of them in its place.

This work begins with fixing the extreme farms. A level is stretched along the ridge to control the correct installation of all other trusses. The fastening of the rafters with the Mauerlat is carried out with brackets or metal studs. With each other, the rafters are fastened with brackets or brackets.

After completing the installation of all roof trusses, proceed to the placement of additional jumpers and the preparation of screeds necessary to increase the rigidity of the roof structure. Traditionally, when arranging a mansard roof, a crossbar is mounted near the upper junction of the rafters, designed to fix the rafters. Additionally, it will serve as an attic ceiling.

If the roof being built of the type in question will have windows or a balcony, leave openings right size in the rafter system. If you plan to install window structures with removal and vertical placement, it will be necessary to prepare separate rafter systems for them.

Finishing stages of construction

After completing the installation of all roof trusses, you will need to cover the inside of the roof structure with vapor barrier material. It will protect the insulation from contact with moisture coming from inside the room.

Start insulating your roof. Most often, mineral wool is used to solve this problem. It is enough just to lay the insulation boards in the space between the rafters, and then close them waterproofing material. Polyethylene is usually used for moisture insulation.

Proceed to the device of the crate. When choosing a mounting method for the crate, consider the features of the selected finishing material. For example, roll roofing it is better to lay on a continuous crate, but tiles and slate require a sparse crate. Install all roofing material. On this, the main part of the work can be considered completed.

Quite often it happens that the strength of the overlap between floors is not high enough. The roof must be capable of carrying loads created by furniture, appliances and other interior elements, as well as people inside the room. The floor of the attic floor should be as strong and even as possible.

In cases where the roofing floors are not used for living, floor beams are laid in increments of 80 cm. If it is planned to equip a full-fledged attic floor, such a distance between the boards is unacceptable. The roof must be additionally reinforced. However, the possibility of arranging additional overlap is not always there.

You can get away with less by taking the floor of the attic space apart and fixing additional joists across the subfloor boards, and then returning the finished flooring back to its place. The rigidity of the overlap obtained in this way is in most cases quite sufficient.

It is recommended to think over the arrangement of the attic floor even before the work on the construction of the roof is completed. Features of the organization of living space can make their own adjustments to the process of building a mansard roof with their own hands.

First you need to choose a place to place the stairs to the roof floor. The most important thing is that it does not interfere with normal life on the floor below.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the roof and the attic room as a whole. Temperature changes in the attic are much more pronounced than in any other place in a private house. Thermal insulation should be of the highest quality and dense. The layer thickness is selected taking into account weather conditions in the region.

Windows are recommended to be installed in gables. Their installation in the planes of the slopes is much more laborious and expensive. Vertical windows are installed in special "birdhouses". In the inclined parts of the structure, it is possible to mount the so-called. roof windows. This is a much more preferable option when compared with the vertical counterpart. They are sold immediately ready for installation with all the required accessories.

In the absence of appropriate skills, installation skylights it is better to entrust experienced professionals, because. any errors at this stage lead to a violation of the tightness and the appearance of many related problems in the form of condensate, drafts, mold, etc.

To finish the attic space, you can use any familiar materials. Difficulties arise only when tiling: it is quite difficult to glue it on inclined surfaces. Plus, the tile has a relatively large weight, which is absolutely undesirable for the attic.

Choose furniture of your choice. You just need to try to think through everything so that the furniture does not interfere with a comfortable stay and life inside the attic, because. sloping walls in combination with a non-standard ceiling already contribute.

Thus, it is quite possible to build a mansard-type roof with your own hands. However, the successful achievement of the set goals is possible only if competent training to the work and maintaining mindfulness and vigilance at every stage of its performance.

Video - How to build a mansard roof

The most probably The best way increase usable area own house- This is to replace the gable roof of the house with a mansard. In this way, one, two or even three additional rooms can be purchased without carving out additional space on the site and without getting involved in the very laborious processes of pouring a new foundation and erecting walls. And in order to find out how to make the attic correctly, you need to consider all the stages of its arrangement, starting with calculations and ending with the roofing of the roof and finishing the resulting additional premises.

In order for all work to be successful, first of all, you need to make sure that the existing walls (if the add-on will be built in the old house) are able to withstand the additional load. It will depend on this factor whether it is worth starting such a construction site, and if so, on which design of the mansard roof it would be better to stop.

It should be noted that the load on the load-bearing walls will increase significantly - due to a larger number of rafters, due to the mass of interior decoration of walls and floors, windows and doors, insulation systems, as well as all elements of the interior filling of attic rooms. All these factors indicate that you need to start with choosing the optimal attic design, with calculations, drafting and drawings of the future superstructure.

According to current building codes an attic is a room under a roof, having a height from the ceiling to the ridge of at least 2500 mm. If this parameter is less than the specified limit, then the room is considered an ordinary attic.

• If the vertical racks that determine the height of the walls of the room are 1500 mm in size, then the attic space can be considered a full-fledged floor.
• A semi-mansard is an attic room in which there are no vertical racks, or if they have a height of 500 to 700 mm.

At the heart of any roof structure are always triangles with their “rigid” structure.

There are several types of attic superstructures, but the most popular of them are high gable and broken structures. Their popularity can be explained by simpler calculations, relatively simple installation work and ease of use. In third place, after gable and broken structures, one can name a shed version of the roof, which is also sometimes used to equip the attic. Unfortunately, this type of superstructure can not be used in every house design, since it requires not only the reconstruction of the roof, but also raising the height of already built walls, which significantly increases the load on them and on the foundation.

If erected new house, and the second floor is planned in the form of an attic, then a shed version of the roof is well suited for this purpose. In addition, it will help save on roofing material.

More complex structures - domed, four-pitched, as well as with various protrusions-consoles arranged in the roof slopes (single-level and multi-level), are used extremely rarely and only in exclusive projects, as they have a complex design both in engineering calculations and in installation.

The figure below the numbers shows:

1 - Gable attic.

2 - Broken attic

3 - Single-level console attic

4 - Multi-level attic.

Gable attic

attic space under d with a wuska roof, which is arranged at an angle between the slopes of 80 ÷ 90 degrees on the ridge, it may well be converted into an attic. To create full-fledged living quarters under it, it will be necessary to carry out a number of necessary reconstructions, for example, very often it is not possible without strengthening attic floor. All these alterations and plus to this - the necessary insulation will certainly "eat" a significant part usable space under the roof, so you should not expect that the rooms in such an attic will be spacious and with high ceilings.

Of course, if the dimensions (length and width) of the house are large enough, and the roof has a significant angle of inclination (45 degrees or even higher), then after the alterations it will be possible to count on a relatively spacious attic room.

broken roof

A room under a sloping mansard roof will be much more spacious and with enough high ceiling. Such an attic can be easily divided into two separate rooms.

The interior of the attic, made according to the "broken" type

The sloping roof has four planes of slopes. They are located at different angles - the upper slopes are called ridge, and the lower ones are lateral. They, for the most part, play the role of walls.

This type of mansard roof is somewhat more difficult to design and install, but the result will please you with spacious rooms and a respectable appearance of the house.

One-level console attic

This type of attic has an even more complex design than the previous one, as it implies an offset attic space to one side or the other.

Using this version of the attic device, you can get spacious rooms, much larger in area than under a gable roof.

The design of a single-level mansard roof can repeat not only a gable, but also a shed version - this will depend on how much it is supposed to take the console out of the attic and raise its ceiling.

Layered add-on

A multi-level structure is the most difficult to design and install. In its development and construction, the help of qualified specialists will definitely be needed. The supports for the levels of the attic rooms are different truss systems and ceilings, which are combined with the main one. A multi-level system involves the location of rooms at different levels of the attic, which is why the consoles should be located that way.

Having chosen the most desirable type of attic, it is necessary to determine whether it is possible to arrange it on the old walls of the house, or whether they will have to be strengthened. Therefore, it is necessary to accurate calculations and make a project.

Roof truss basics

Most roofs, and the attic in this matter is no exception, have one of two types of truss system, or a combination of them. Each of these varieties has its own characteristics, which depend on the location of the load-bearing walls of the building.

Hanging system

The hanging truss system is determined by the fact that it is supported only by two external capital walls located along the length of the building, in which there are no internal capital partitions.

Such a system is used provided that the distance between the main supports is no more than 13 ÷ 14 meters. In any case, this design gives a fairly large load on the walls and foundation of the building.

To reduce the loads in this system, various support structures are used. elements - crossbars, grandmas, struts, puffs, racks and other details.

For example, headstocks, as it were, suspend the entire system to the ridge beam with the help of a puff, and struts pull the overlapping beams to the rafter legs.

For the attic floor in this system, it is necessary to use thick bars, logs or boards that are installed on the edge. Their thickness can be determined from the table given in this publication, based on the distance between the support points.

In order for the floor to be reliable and durable when using a hanging system, you need to carry out accurate calculations, and if it is difficult to do it yourself, then it is better

Layered construction

The layered system is distinguished by the fact that it has supports not only on external main walls, but also on internal partitions that have a foundation.

Therefore, starting the construction of a house in which an attic is planned, you need to think in advance about the location of the internal capital partitions.

For a house with an attic, a layered system is best option, since the beams blocking the house will be firmly and securely fixed to the walls and partitions.

When erecting a broken attic roof structure, you can use combined option rafter system, that is, use elements of both a hanging and a layered system.

Attic design

When drawing up a project for the construction of any type of attic, it is recommended to consider it in different projections in order to visually determine the location of all supporting elements. Calculating all the parameters of the attic, they must be immediately included in the project.

Based on the calculations made, the places and methods of installation of all structural elements of the truss system are determined. The calculation is also necessary to accurately determine the materials needed for the construction of the attic and their parameters.

Structural elements

Any of wooden structures The mansard roof consists of certain elements that are interconnected by connecting nodes that have different configurations. In order to better understand the design of these connections, it is recommended to draw each of them, and when conducting installation work- be sure to have this drawing on hand.

The design of a broken mansard roof includes the following components of the system:

• Mauerlat - element, made of a wooden beam and laid on the main walls of the building in its length. It serves to evenly distribute the load from the structure of the truss system to the wall and foundation. Rafter legs are installed and fixed on the Mauerlat. This element is mounted both in a gable and in a broken structure of the attic roof.
• Floor beams, which are laid on the main walls of the building and are the basis for the future floor of the attic and the ceiling of the first floor, as well as for the installation of the entire truss system.
• The rafter leg consists of one straight element - bar or boards in a gable type of roof, or from two parts - in a broken structure. In a broken mansard roof, the upper part fixed to the ridge is called the ridge, and the lower part, which forms the walls of the attic, is called the side. Obviously, the side leg will be installed on a layered basis, while the upper ridge rafter - usually becomes hanging
• For the ridge, a beam or board of a certain thickness is used. Sometimes they do without it, connecting the upper ridge parts of the rafter legs together, which form the ridge.
• Racks are the supporting elements of the system. They support the rafter legs and take some of the load off the walls and foundation of the building. Racks in the future will become a crate for the walls, which will be installed in the process of finishing the attic.
• Bevels or other elements installed diagonally are additional supports that hold the rafters and retaining beams together, making the system more reliable.
• Between the rafter legs for rigidity, bars are installed, called inter-rafter runs - they also give the system rigidity.

Carrying out basic attic calculations

It is quite difficult to develop a mansard roof project on your own, since this process requires certain knowledge and skills in designing and carrying out specific architectural calculations. If you make mistakes at the same time, the design of the attic will be unreliable, and besides, with its weight it can damage the walls and foundation of the building.

Everything must be taken into account in the calculations - from the beginning of construction to the finishing of the premises.

However, if a not too complicated design is conceived, then you can try to cope on your own.

Skate Height Calculation

The size usable area of the attic room depends on the height of the roof ridge, and the latter is determined by the selected slope of the slopes - the smaller this angle, the lower the ceiling and, accordingly, less effective area attic space.

H=L×tgα

H- the height of the skate;

L- ½ the width of the building (if we are talking about a gable symmetrical roof);

α - the angle of inclination of the slope of the truss system.

Scheme - for clarity

As an example, you can substitute the above data into the formula:

Building size 8×10 m, slope angle 30°, tangent 30°= 0.58

H \u003d 8/2 × 0.58 \u003d 2.32 m

The height of the skate will be 2,32 m.

Very detailed, with all possible nuances and the necessary reference tables, the process and all other parameters related to it are set out from a separate publication dedicated to this particular issue.

Square inner space attic

The technique used to determine the area of ​​​​the attic space will make it possible to calculate the amount required material for the construction of a truss system, for insulation and decoration. Especially accurate calculations are important if the attic will be used to equip additional living rooms, as they require special design.

Usually the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room under the roof is calculated, that is, both useful and the so-called "deaf". The living space is limited to installed racks, which will be the basis for the installation of insulation and wall finishing material. The zone behind them is considered deaf, that is, most often not used.

The total area is calculated quite simply: the width of the overhangs on both sides is added to the width of the building. The resulting amount is multiplied by the length of the building.

It is also easy to find the area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving space: for this you need to measure the width of the attic space between the racks installed under one and the other slope of the roof, and multiply the resulting parameter by the length of the attic from gable to gable.

Roofing area

To determine in advance the amount of roofing material, it is necessary to calculate total area roof slopes.

If a decision is made to install a broken or even more complex structure, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball sections of the roof. To do this, it must be divided into separate geometric figures, and then calculate the area of ​​each of them and add the results.

For those who do not firmly remember the formulas for calculating the areas of flat figures, a "cheat sheet" scheme is given.

Shed roof area

If the attic roof is pitched, then its area can be calculated using the formula: Sabcd = Lcd × Lbd.

The area of ​​​​one slope - there is nothing easier

Pay attention to the drawing. When calculating, not only the length and width of the roof structure of the slope are taken into account - we must not forget about the cornice overhangs from all sides.

gable roof

With a symmetrical arrangement of roof slopes, for calculating a gable roof, it remains only to multiply the value obtained above by two.

For example, take the same example as discussed above. The size of the building is 10×8 m. The angle of the slope is 30 °, the height of the ridge H = 2.32 m. It is easy to determine the length of the rafter - S

S = H / sin α = 2.32 / 0.5 = 4.64 m

We accept cornice overhang 0,7 m, gable overhang 0,7 m. According to the shed roof formula, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone slope is calculated.

(10 + 2 × 0.7) × (4.64 + 0.7) = 60.88 m²

Then, to get the total area of ​​​​the two slopes, the resulting result is multiplied by two.

Q = 121.76 m²

This technique is designed to calculate the continuous surface of slopes, excluding windows, ventilation channels and a chimney.

If the roof has a very complex structure, then it is better not to take risks and still seek the help of professionals who will make the necessary calculations using special computer applications.

When using slate, soft roofing, other profile materials, you can use a simplified calculation formula.

Starting from the drawing:

So, the following formula is applicable for calculation:

Q\u003d K × (B + 2A) × (L + 2C)

Q— required amount roofing;

AT — the width of the building (along the gable wall);

BUT- the width of the planned eaves overhangs roofing;

L- total length of the building;

C- the width of the side overhangs of the roof.

To is a coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the slope with respect to the horizon (α). By and large, it is a trigonometric function of secant (sec), equal to the reciprocal of cosα.

In order not to delve into the theory, it is easier to give a coefficient table To in absolute, that is, numerical measurement:

Let's go back to our example:

Q= 1.1547 × (8 + 2 × 0.7) × (10+2 × 0.7) = 123.74 m²

With considering overlaps slate sheets - it turns out almost the same as in calculations carried out by a different method. Definitely on advice experienced builders, to the area obtained when acquiring roofing material, another 10 ÷ 15 %

(The figure shows a gable roof, however, the formula is fully suitable for calculations with necessary level accuracy for pitched or hip roofs. True, with a caveat - hip roof the steepness of the main and side slopes must match. If not, then the calculation is carried out for each pair of slopes separately, and then the value is summed).

Total weight from truss system and roofing

It is equally important to correctly choose the optimal material for roofing and correctly make a crate for it. This calculation is carried out taking into account the length of the rafters and the angle of their slope.

The crate for roofing material can be sparse, mixed or solid. For example, a metal tile, corrugated board or slate is fixed to a sparse crate, and soft roof- only on a continuous one.

When choosing a roof, you need to get information about it performance characteristics. It is from them that the durability and reliability of the roof structure will depend. Roofing material must also be selected taking into account the specific region and its climatic conditions, especially factors such as temperature changes and strong winds.

An important factor is the weight of the roofing, especially if the mansard roof is installed on old walls. Therefore, you should estimate the weight of the roof in advance and find out how much the load on the building structure will increase, and whether it will be acceptable.

Most often, soft roofing or ondulin is used to cover attics, since these materials are one of those that have the lightest weight and are easy to install.

For example, you can calculate the weight of 1 square meter of roofing, where ondulin is used for coating, taking into account the crate and insulation - sprayed polyurethane foam. To do this, you need to find the sum of the weight of each of the materials and multiply by a factor of 1.1 (this factor takes into account the overlap on adjacent sheets of roofing material).

• The weight from a flat crate, 20 mm thick (plywood or OSB) is 14 kg / m².
• Insulation - polyurethane foam, 100 mm thick, has average weight 3 kg/m²
• The average weight of ondulin is 3.3 kg / m²

We get in total:

(14 + 3 + 3.3) × 1.1=22.3kg /m²

To calculate the total weight load of the roof on the walls, you need to multiply the weight of one square meter by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire coating. In our example, this will work:

M = 123.74 × 22.3 = 2751.82 kg.

A lot - almost 3 tons gives only a very light roofing with a crate and also a very light type of insulation.

But that's not all! Snow loads on the roof winter period, plus wind pressure, all year round. These parameters must also be taken into account when calculating the necessary wooden elements construction of the truss system and floor beams, and taking into account the total load of the roof structure on the walls and foundation of the building.

• If the floor is mounted on floor beams, you will have to work from the side of the first floor.

- From the side of the lower room, boards are mounted on the floor beams. It is desirable that they be even, you can even use it for a subfloor floorboard.

- After that, a vapor barrier film is laid on these boards from the side of the attic, which will cover not only the subfloor, but also the floor beams.

- On top of it, another layer of vapor barrier is laid and attached to the beams.

- Then, logs are fixed to this coating perpendicular to the beams.

- Another layer of insulation is mounted between the lags, for it it is better to choose mineral wool, as it, straightening out, is tightly installed between the bars, leaving no voids.

- Then it should also be covered with vapor barrier material.

If it is decided to cover the floor with one of the decorative coatings, then plywood sheets are laid on top of the log, and then laminate, linoleum or other materials are laid on them. Again, nothing prevents in this case from using, for example, film floor heating.

Installation of insulation on the walls and ceiling of the attic

Having finished the installation of the floor, you can proceed to the installation of insulation on the walls.

- If material in mats is chosen for this process, then before laying it, sheets of vapor barrier material are fixed on the rafters.

It is fixed in such a way as to close the entire space and deepen it between the rafters.

- Further, insulating material in mats is laid in the openings between the rafters on the vapor barrier. It can be temporarily secured with twine, which is pulled in a zigzag pattern over adjacent rafters.

If the vapor barrier is fixed on the other side of the rafters, then the mats will independently hold between two wooden surfaces.

- If one of the sprayed heaters, then it does not need to be fixed under it vapor barrier film. It will be enough waterproofing, which is laid on the rafters outside the structure.

Spraying polyurethane foam - quickly and efficiently, but requires special equipment and work skills

To use this insulation technology, you must have a special technological equipment, or you will have to invite a specialist who will do the work in one day. It is not easy to carry out this operation on your own without experience - in order to do the work without harming your health, you need to know the process technology and have the necessary protective equipment.

After the insulation works, wall cladding is being carried out.

Attic wall decoration

Before you start decorating the walls, you need to resolve the issue with electrical wiring, the cable of which must be well insulated with double-layer corrugated pipes.

After the wiring of the electrical cable is done, you can safely proceed with the installation of the finishing material.

Usually used for finishing wooden lining, drywall or plywood with a beautiful textured pattern.

For any of these materials, it is desirable to make a crate of slats on the rafter legs and vertical racks with a section size of approximately 20 × 70 mm. These guides are fixed in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition to the fact that the crate of the slats becomes the basis for fixing the finish, it also forms a ventilation gap between the finishing material and the vapor barrier.

• Finishing with drywall is quite simple. It leaves walls smooth and neat, ready for painting, traditional wallpapering or even liquid wallpapering.

Therefore, drywall finishing should be chosen by those homeowners who like to often change the interior design of the premises.

• Wall decoration with clapboard is a longer and more laborious process than working with drywall. For such a sheathing, a crate with the above parameters is also perfect. The only thing to think about is the direction of the lining boards, that is, it should be located vertically with the horizontal orientation of the crate and vice versa.

If desired, after installation, the wood can be varnished on water based or give it a deeper color by using stain.

Wood is an amazing material that can create a special atmosphere in the room with the aroma of the forest, which has a positive effect on the structure and well-being of the residents. That is why natural lining is very often chosen for flooring, walls and attic ceilings.

Video: insulation of the attic room and finishing it with clapboard

• Can you think of excellent finish from plywood. But that's only if it will not be covered with paint on top, then you need to choose quality material with a beautiful natural pattern. Plywood is mounted much faster than lining, and makes the walls even, covering large surfaces at once.

This material can be covered with varnish, paint or any kind of wallpaper, but you can leave the walls in their natural state only by carefully cleaning possible defects in the form of protruding splinters or burrs.

The construction of the attic is quite laborious and difficult process requiring high experience in the building trade. If there is no one to understand about the above technological operations, then you should not take it on your own - it is better to invite professional masters to perform the work. They will save you from unnecessary problems and build an attic according to the project conceived by the owner of the house.

Video: an example of the construction and decoration of the attic

If you want to maximize the usable area of ​​​​the house without spending fabulous money, you should definitely consider projects with an attic. Developers' experience suggests that this best way planning of economy class housing, because one square meter of living space in it costs several times cheaper than in two-story buildings. There is a misconception that the attic is suitable only for seasonal use in the warm season.

However, it is erroneous, since a well-insulated broken mansard roof perfectly retains heat in winter, its temperature regime no less comfortable than in the heated rooms on the ground floor.

Even without additional thermal insulation, the attic is a kind of "air cushion" that maintains the optimum temperature inside the house.

A broken mansard roof is considered technically complex design, advising to entrust its construction to a professional team. Nevertheless, a person who is familiar with roofing works using the example of a traditional gable roof is quite capable of overpowering its construction with his own hands, with the help of two auxiliary workers, assistants. The main thing to understand is that this is a process that requires a serious approach, which is reckless to start without preliminary calculations.

Varieties of mansard roofs

Attic - a heated or cold space under the roof, which is used as a living space. According to building codes, in the attic it is necessary to equip windows for natural light and ceilings of sufficient height for a person.

Rooms under the roof, in which these conditions are not met, are called the attic. The following types of roofs are suitable for the attic device:

broken roof

Installation of a mansard roof suitable for habitation provides for mandatory thermal insulation, organization of natural light with the help of dormers or vertical windows and forced ventilation.

Benefits of a broken structure

Of course, the attic can even be equipped by building an ordinary triangular roof with your own hands. But due to the steepness of the slopes, in order for the ceiling to learn, the height of such a roof must be very large. This is not economical, and also impractical, because a roof with a variable angle of slopes allows you to more effectively manage the available space.

The flatter top makes the ceilings appear higher. According to building codes, if the distance from the floor to the ridge connection is less than 2.5-2.7 meters, the room is not considered residential, it cannot be called an attic, it is rather just an attic. The sloping roof design has the following advantages:

• Possibility to build higher ceilings.
• High level of protection against atmospheric precipitation, wind.
• Light snow removal from slopes.
• Helps to keep warm.
• Rational use of roof space.

Construction stages

Create a project

When drafting a broken mansard roof for do-it-yourself construction, it is better to draw up drawings with different projections, which will comprehensively show the location of its elements. Based on the length and width of the house, you need to determine the size of the attic room, as well as the roof. First of all, the geometry of the slopes is built:

In order for the project calculations to be correct, it is important to accurately make primary measurements, as well as maintain scale. Can make design easier computer programs, in which it is enough to enter the dimensions of the building and the desired type of roof, they perform the rest of the work automatically. If access to such software No, it is better to use ready-made projects.

Calculation of the truss system

Rafters are the main supporting elements of a broken mansard roof, a kind of its backbone. They are subjected to enormous loads, so they are subject to special requirements.

The choice of the section of the rafter legs is not random, but in accordance with the installation step, the distance between the supports, the values ​​​​of wind and snow loads. If the first three indicators can be easily determined from the drawn up drawing, then the last two need special explanation.

• The territory of Russia is divided into 8 zones with different snow loads. For each specific roof, this value is adjusted by the angle of inclination of its slopes. Since the slope of the slopes is different, two indicators are calculated, respectively, the upper and lower rafters can have a different section.
• There is also zoning for wind load, which also includes 8 zones. With the help of a coefficient that takes into account the height of the building, amendments are made to the tabular value of this indicator.
• The values ​​of these two indicators are summed to determine the total load. Numbers should be rounded up to provide a small margin of safety. Based on them, according to the reference tables, the required section of the boards is determined.

Mauerlat installation

The beginning of work on the equipment of a broken mansard roof - the installation of a mauerlat, a durable beam measuring 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. It is fixed at the end of the side outer walls.

Its main task is to distribute the weight of the roof structure, transfer it to the foundation, as well as protect the slopes from tipping over. Mauerlat is laid on the upper part of the wall along a pre-laid waterproofing, which is used as a roofing material folded in half or several layers of a special film.

Fastening is carried out using metal studs, they must be placed in a concrete screed. If we are talking about the reconstruction of the roof with our own hands, it is mounted anchor bolts to the wall to a depth of 15-17 cm.

For timber and log houses use wooden dowels. Please note that the installation is flush.

Assembling the truss system

Assembly truss system of a broken mansard roof happens in the following order:

The fulfillment of the above points forms one roof truss. In the same way, the rest are installed in increments of 60-120 cm.

Waterproofing and roofing

When the do-it-yourself installation work is completed, you need to organize its waterproofing. For this you need waterproofing film or a membrane, which is usually produced in roll form.

Fasteners are selected depending on the type of material. For tiles, galvanized self-tapping screws with rubber heads are used, which are deformed in the process of twisting in such a way that they waterproof the hole.

In order to speed up the process, you can use a screwdriver. Shinglas or ondulin is fixed with nails 100 mm long. After the completion of the roofing work, gables and overhangs of the mansard sloping roof are drawn up.

Summing up, we can say that a broken mansard roof will help to expand the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house with your own hands. You can build it with your own hands, however, this will require special skills and costs, which, no doubt, will pay for themselves.

Video instruction

The cost of building a roof is 25-35% of the cost of building the entire house, and the cost of work is 50-80% of the price of materials, so if you build a mansard roof with your own hands, then the savings can be 15% of the total estimate.

Mansard refers to any roof under which there are rooms suitable for habitation in height (attic, or attic floor).

The device of a mansard roof is a complex and painstaking work.

In industrial construction, the installation of the roof is carried out when the drawings display each node, the fastenings of the parts, and the parts themselves with the dimensions taken out.

Builders do not think about the roof device, about whether the load is calculated correctly, their task is to build a frame by sawing out templates of parts and fastening them together, while the system for fixing the roof elements is also indicated.

To figure out how to make a mansard roof, you will have to study the video, photo and master the theoretical part.

Comfortable ceiling height for living quarters from 2.5 m and above. The walls of the attic floor are most often roof slopes, so it is necessary to ensure their thermal insulation.

The top of the mansard roof is a ridge, a beam that lies parallel to the plane of the floor of the house, and is the highest point of the roof. The ribs of the roof are called rafters.

Ridge (upper) rafters descend from the ridge. Attic floor beams connect the bases of the left and right ridge rafters of the same roof section.

Racks (bars with a section of 100x100) are fixed on interfloor overlap at a right angle at a distance of 0.8-1.5 meters from the outer wall.

The higher the racks and the closer they are placed to the walls of the house, the larger the attic living space will be.

The side (lower) rafters go from the attachment point of the attic beam to the Mauerlat. Each section of the mansard roof consists of two ridge rafters and two side rafters on each side.

The system of the rafters of the same name forms a slope - ridge or side.

The most used version of the mansard roof is a broken gable roof. In this case, the ridge and side rafters form an obtuse angle at the connection points.

If they lie on the same straight line, then outwardly it looks like a classic gable roof.

When calculating the slope of the slope, the materials of the future roof and climatic conditions are taken into account, it can range from 15 to 45 degrees. The greater the slope, the less snow will linger.

In regions with little snow, the sloping roof of a house can be quite flat.

The standard slope of the slopes is 30-35 degrees.

Preparatory work

A mansard-type roof is planned even before laying the floor between the first and attic floors.

If you use wooden beams as a floor, then you need to provide for the cross section of the beam and the distance between the beams so that they can withstand permissible load for residential second floor.

Usually these are beams with a cross section of 150 cm and above with a length of 6 m. Such beams are located at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other.

The system is such that the longer the beam, the more load it will experience in the middle. The pressure will be created by the floor of the attic floor itself, the furniture and, in fact, the residents.

Even if the attic is planned for unfurnished lounges, floor beams with a cross section of less than 120 cm, laid at a distance of 100 cm from each other, are undesirable.

A reliable device will provide the right materials for the mansard roof.

The heavier the roofing materials will be, and the longer the frame of the sloping roof, the larger the section needed for the timber from which the frame can be built.

Usually, sections 60x120, 60x100 cm are used.

In many photos, there is no reinforcing belt device along the external load-bearing walls when a sloping roof is planned.

The weight distribution system is such that the entire weight of the roof rests on the floor beams, and they, in turn, transfer this and their weight to the walls.

The gable roof of a one-story building is much lighter than a broken mansard, so a Mauerlat is enough ( wood paneling along the perimeter of the walls below the floor beams).

If the walls are made of timber or brick, then the Mauerlat will make sure that the mansard roof device is reliable. It is important at the stage of building walls to provide a device for fixing the Mauerlat.

The system must be reliable. In the case when a hollow cinder block or porous foam concrete is used as a material for the walls, it is difficult to secure the Mauerlat to the wall.

A good solution would be a reinforcing concrete belt, into which, at the level of pouring, rods are placed to install the Mauerlat.

It is placed on a substrate of roofing felt or other insulating material and aligned with the inner edge of the wall.

Before fixing, make sure that the bars forming the Mauerlat lie strictly parallel. Even a deviation of 2-3 cm will cause the slope to sag.

If the house is up to 6 meters wide (the maximum allowable size of an unsupported interfloor beam), then the floor beam rests on the Mauerlat with both edges.

If the width of the house is more than 6 meters and the house has load-bearing walls perpendicular to the beams of the floors, then the floors are installed according to the following system: one edge of the beam is attached to the Mauerlat, and the second to the inside bearing wall, on which the Mauerlat is already installed.

In continuation of this line, the next beam from inner wall to the opposite outer Mauerlat. The gap between the beams should be at least 3-4 cm.

If the preliminary work is done correctly, then you have received a completely finished floor between the first and attic floors. Now it's time to draw the future frame.

Start studying the theory with a photo of a sloping roof and with a video showing the installation of a mansard roof.

Draw the house from the front side, the racks on the left and right, bring out the rafters and calculate the angles of inclination. Increase or decrease the height of the posts to change the slope of the slope.

Calculate the length of the rafters (the cosine of the angle of inclination multiplied by the distance from the rack to the projection of the ridge - for the ridge slope, and the cosine of the angle of inclination of the side slope, multiplied by the distance from the Mauerlat to the rack - for the side rafters).

Watch the video various options fastening the bars to each other. Quality mount provide a solid framework.

If climatic conditions overload the high sloping roof with winds, and the width of the house does not allow much space for unused space behind the racks, then you can reduce the height of the racks and, after construction is completed, install built-in wardrobes around the entire perimeter of the side walls of the attic.

Frame assembly procedure

Make the roof frame only from high-quality wood. The main sign of a "stale" tree is a dark color.

If you can’t buy wood dried in a drying chamber, then get it raw, but still at the stage of building walls.

Fresh wood cannot be used for the frame - under the influence of loads, it will lose its shape and bend.

Raw timber can be dried naturally in one and a half to two months.

To do this, we lay it out clearly in level with a distance between the bars of up to 5 cm. No two bars should touch. Every 75-100 cm, the beam should rest on a flat surface.

As support points, you can use a cinder block laid out on a flat area, but in no case can you use another beam intended for the frame.

In sunny and warm weather, the bars dry naturally, and in rainy weather they need to be covered. The manufacture of the frame is allowed only from completely dried wood.

Start the installation by making sure that the racks and rafters are straight wooden bars and there are no cracks or knots.

Sawed wooden blanks of the same type must be treated with a fire-fighting agent and a mixture that prevents the formation of fungus.

Processing should be done twice with an interval of 1-2 days. Installation can begin when the tree has dried after the treatments.

The procedure for assembling the frame step by step:

• Rack installation. On top of the floor beams, we put 5-6 boards, 5 cm thick, without fixing. They form a floor on which you can safely move. Beams of the same size are installed on the floors according to the level. First put extreme. Be sure to make sure that the opposite distances between the racks are equal. Then a cord is stretched between the extreme bars. It performs the function of the level at which all others are set. A harness is placed on top of the racks and fixed. Now we have a rectangle in which all other supports are mounted. To reduce the precariousness of the design of the rack, it is necessary to unfasten it with jibs to the floor beams. It is the racks - the most weakness in the frame system, so we will pay special attention to their fixation. The rack with the floor beam must be fixed with construction bracket size 12-14. When all the racks are installed, wedge them with an overlap using a beam with a section of 50-60 cm. It is worth additionally fastening them along outside among themselves with the help of unedged boards;
• Installation of the upper slopes (gable roof). At the top, the rafters are fastened together with brackets. The ridge rafter rests on the strapping of the racks and is fixed to the beam of the attic floor. Installation of the upper triangle of the attic must be carried out only on the ground and lifted completely finished structure. The triangle is laid on the racks and attached to them with brackets. As soon as the installation of the second triangle is completed, it is necessary to connect them in several places to each other. When all the structures are exposed, you can fix them with a crate;
• At the top of each side rafter, a groove 3-4 cm deep is cut out, and the racks are tied into it. The angle of the groove is equal to the angle of inclination of the slope. A groove is also made at the bottom of the side rafter for installing it on the Mauerlat. Due to these two grooves, the unloaded rafter can stand without fixation. Before applying the load that the crate will carry, you need to fix the side rafter with a bracket to the strapping and to the Mauerlat. Additional fixation should be carried out with self-tapping screws, twisted at the attachment points of the rafters, at an angle;
• Lathing - edged or unedged board or OSB plate- fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws. The edges of the slopes should be even. The distance between the components of the crate depends on the roof. For slate, a distance of 3-4 cm is allowed, and for shingles a solid crate is required;
• It remains to build the gables and insulate the slopes and the broken mansard roof is ready.

Take photos and videos as you go through each step. This will help to understand the errors in case the result obtained does not satisfy you.

To work you will need tools:

• hammers of different sizes;
• screwdriver;
• a circular saw;
• pliers and small carpentry tools.

You will also need consumables:

• staples size 12 or 14;
• wood screws 45-50 cm long for battens and 150 cm long for additional fixation of rafters;
• hydrobarrier;
• construction stapler;
• as insurance - the installer's belt.

It is better to call 2-3 assistants for help (it is really possible to cut the cut yourself on the ground, but the installation of structures at a height cannot be done alone).