Homemade buleryan. How to make a do-it-yourself buleryan oven: step-by-step instructions for making Scheme of the thermal chamber of Buleryan

Buleryan solid fuel stoves continue to gain their popularity. They differ high efficiency and the ability to heat rooms quickly. Consumers can purchase ready-made units or try to assemble the Buleryan oven with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in this, because in its design it resembles the most ordinary pyrolysis potbelly stove. The differences are only in the body, which is equipped with efficient tubular convectors.

Design features

Assembling the Buleryan oven with your own hands is really very simple. But only for those who know how to handle tools and iron, and also have an idea about the design of solid fuel stoves. There are no special structural difficulties here, but you need to remember that working with iron requires special care - it is not as malleable as wood. But as an end result, you should get an excellent heating unit that will please you with quick warm-up and long-term burning.

The self-assembled Buleryan stove is a traditional solid fuel unit that runs on wood according to a gas generator scheme. That is, firewood burns here with the release of pyrolysis products, which are sent to the afterburner and burn there with secondary air. The products of combustion are sent to the chimney, leaving the atmosphere and partially falling out in the form of condensate - we will tell you how to get rid of it with just one movement of your hand.

Potbelly stove Buleryan consists of the following parts:

• The main combustion chamber is spacious, roomy, the firewood here lies directly on the convection pipes;
• Afterburner - located above the combustion chamber, it is a perforated or solid sheet of iron that separates the upper quarter of the entire internal volume;
• Tubular convector - a set of curved pipes, most of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is in direct contact with firewood, coals and burning gases;
• A loading door with a small blank damper - through it, firewood is loaded into the Buleryan oven, made by oneself. It also allows you to adjust the access of oxygen to the combustion chamber;
• Chimney with a slide damper and a condensate collection chamber - ensures the removal of combustion products and collects condensed combustion products with their subsequent removal.

Also in the design of the furnace there are tubes (injectors) for supplying secondary air - it is needed in the afterburner for pyrolysis combustion.

It was the simplicity of the Buleryan convection oven (also called the Breneran oven) that gave it its well-deserved popularity.

It is this unusual appearance that makes the Buleryan oven so extremely effective.

In order for you to feel all the delights of the Buleryan stove, we will talk about its principle of operation. We have already said that the pyrolysis reaction is used here. The burning of firewood with a limited supply of oxygen looks like smoldering with the release of pyrolysis products. Entering the upper afterburning chamber, they ignite and burn out with the release of a large number heat - combustion is maintained by small injectors built into two convection tubes.

The blower and slide gate are responsible for maintaining the pyrolysis reaction. They are responsible for limiting the supply of oxygen and the slow removal of combustion products. Due to this, the heat is almost completely sent to the heated rooms.

Many users are wondering whether a potbelly stove or Buleryan is better and what to give preference to. The efficiency of a potbelly stove, including pyrolysis, will be lower. To increase efficiency, it will be necessary to equip it with additions that form convection. But the potbelly stove still cannot catch up with the Buleryan stove, no matter how hard you try. Buleryan is the most efficient and advanced stove to date, with an extremely lightweight design.

Buleryan is not on trial solid fuel stove. But you can assemble it yourself, according to a similar scheme, by integrating a home-made burner into the loading door (we wrote about the collection of such a burner in our reviews). It is also possible to purchase a ready-made burner. But such a scheme will only be justified if you have access to inexpensive supplies of this simple fuel.

We make homemade Buleryan

This oven has a wide range of applications. It is suitable for heating residential buildings, suburban buildings and business premises. If you need a good garage oven, Buleryan will be a worthy solution - fast and efficient. Literally 15-20 minutes after ignition, a comfortable and warm atmosphere will be established in your garage.

Do-it-yourself Buleryan stove will delight you with its ease of operation and unpretentiousness to fuel. However, the logs for it must be dry (preferably no higher than 15% moisture), otherwise the pyrolysis reaction will occur with difficulty. The increased humidity of firewood leads to a large amount of condensate. Let's see how to assemble it with your own hands.

Furnace assembly drawing, materials and tools

We present you a drawing with dimensions, which we will focus on when assembling the Buleryan furnace with our own hands.

Detailed diagram of the Buleryan furnace.

During the development process, you can make your own changes if they seem necessary to you. For example, nothing prevents you from adapting a ready-made purchased door here so as not to suffer with it self assembly. Along with the drawing, you will need the following tools:

• Hydraulic or manual pipe bender;
• Welding machine;
• Angle grinder for cutting steel;
• Grinding disc for correcting welds.

• A pipe with a diameter of 60 mm for the manufacture of a convector (heater) - the drawing shows pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, but then the convection will not be so intense. In this case, we advise you to focus on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe heated room;
• Sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm - we will cut out intermediate plates from it, as well as the front and back walls;
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-130 mm;
• Metal pipe to create a throttle (blower) on the loading door;
• Hinges for the loading door, as well as a reliable lock with a safe handle for opening and closing it;
• Materials for creating a sliding damper - another handle with a small piece of sheet steel to block the chimney clearance;
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 15 mm for injection pipes.

An asbestos cord is also useful, which is necessary to seal the door. Don't forget to pick good electrodes for welding metal parts.

You will also need thick cardboard, from which it is very convenient to make patterns for subsequent cutting of metal - this way you will save time and nerves. By the way, some craftsmen make Buleryan stoves with their own hands from square pipe. It turns out scary, but in general it works.

First steps

To begin with, we need to make the frame of our entire Buleryan furnace - it is an interweaving of curved pipes that form an air heater and a future firebox. Use a pipe bender and bend them with a radius of curvature of 225 mm. The length of each pipe is 120 cm - more than enough. The pipes are welded together with metal strips, so that the result is a stable base for our furnace. There should not be any openings on the sides, otherwise smoke will penetrate into the heated rooms.

Making an afterburner

The next stage in the manufacture of the Buleryan furnace with your own hands is the creation of an afterburner. To do this, you need to take sheet iron and make partitions out of it with recesses for an air heat exchanger.

Next, we weld the partitions from the inside to the pipes so as to separate about a quarter of the internal volume (or as indicated in the drawing). Please note that these partitions go to back wall, and they do not touch the front wall (secondary air injectors are welded into the first two pipes).

Pyrolysis products will get here. And the combustion products will go to the back wall, where the chimney of the Buleryan furnace is located.

Finishing the base assembly

Now we need to cut out two pieces from sheet iron, forming the back and front walls of the Buleryan furnace. But do not rush to weld them - they still need to be worked on. In the back wall, we make a hole for the chimney, focusing on the diameter of the chimney pipe.

After that, we move on to the front wall - here we need to make a hole for the tie-in. The door is made from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 350 mm. And here you have to suffer.

The thing is that the door should tightly close the inlet of the furnace. We weld a part of a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm to the front wall of our Buleryan furnace, which we assemble with our own hands - it protrudes a little, as in the figure. Next, we make the door itself - it will be two-layer, the inner part will go inside the loading hole, and the outer part will cover it from the outside.

In the door of the Buleryan furnace, we make a hole for the throttle. Its dimensions are indicated on our drawing. It is a small piece of pipe in which a damper rotates on a metal loop - it should completely block the lumen. In order for the loop not to rotate under its own weight, we press it with a spring. It is also necessary to make a reliable lock for fixing the loading door.

Fussing with doors, chokes and dampers when assembling a Buleryan furnace with your own hands is the most problematic, because working with small parts is always more difficult than with large ones. But if the hands grow from there, you will get the job done relatively quickly.

Chimney making

If you think that a do-it-yourself chimney for a Buleryan stove is a piece of pipe, then you are fundamentally wrong. We will manufacture a T-shaped chimney with a sliding damper for our stove.

Unlike the throttle, the clearance here does not overlap completely, but only 3/4 of maximum diameter chimney - just such a damper will need to be cut out and mounted in the outlet (horizontal) pipe.

We weld a vertical section to the horizontal pipe of the chimney of the Buleryan furnace. Smoke will escape through its upper part, and condensate will accumulate in the lower part (it will definitely be). To make getting rid of it more convenient, weld to the bottom ball valve. Just one movement of the hand - and all the accumulated condensate will merge into a pre-placed container, as we promised earlier.

final stage

By the way, our self-made Buleryan oven is practically assembled. We already have:

• Main body with air heater;
• Two walls with doors and throttle;
• Chimney with damper.

It's time to weld all the components together. Once again we are convinced of the tightness of the seams between the metal plates and the convection pipes, after which we proceed to the installation of the front and rear doors.

Remember that the afterburner should be located in the upper rear part - do not confuse.

After welding the walls, we check the fresh seams. At the next stage, we arm ourselves with an angle grinder and carefully grind the seams to make them more accurate. In conclusion, we connect the chimney and proceed to painting the Buleryan stove with heat-resistant paint. Part of it will subsequently burn (for example, on the front door), but the upper part will remain intact, since the convector pipes do not heat up to the highest temperatures.

The final stage includes the installation of a self-assembled Buleryan furnace on a metal or brick pedestal. Optimal Height location of the lower part of the convection pipes - 20-25 cm from the floor level. Next, we mount the chimney and load firewood into the firebox. At the first stage of ignition, the throttle and slide gate are fully open - the firewood should be fully ignited. After that, we close the slide gate and the throttle, due to which the Buleryan furnace will switch to the pyrolysis combustion mode.

The intensity of combustion is regulated by means of a butterfly valve and a slide valve - here you will need a little practice to achieve optimal results. In addition, you can upgrade the Buleryan oven, assembled by yourself:

• Turn the air heat exchanger into a water heat exchanger and connect it to heating system- you get a powerful productive wood-burning boiler;
• Connect the convector inputs with a pipe and connect a powerful blower fan here. Combine the heat exchanger outlets in the same way, connect to them flexible pipes and distribute heat in neighboring rooms - you get an air heating system;
• To mount the Buleryan stove in a small room (the size of a toilet) and from this room to spread pipes with hot air to other rooms is another way to organize air heating.

It can take you up to several days to make a Buleryan oven with your own hands, but in general, the results should please you.

Video

Quantity pluses, which the Buleryan oven possesses, contributes to the fact that popularity her among owners private sectors, garages, country houses and other similar structures in recent years increased.

Decisive factor choice this cast iron oven as heater various premises speaks uniqueness device design and high performance efficiency(coefficient useful action), which are about 80% .

Combination small expense heating material with maximum in time by the combustion process, making the purchase of the Buleryan furnace very advantageous acquisition. The truth is such a stove not cheap(prices in stores start at 10 thousand rubles.). If desired and the ability to use a welding machine, the manufacture of a Buleryan furnace is also possible in at home.

Scheme of the furnace and the principle of operation

Buleryan oven in many ways recalls ordinary, manufactured according to the scheme. The comparison is very superficial, but these products are taken by designers as a basis making Buleryan.

Combustion product is built on the principle forced convection: when burning, the reaction waste is not removed through the chimney, but enters another chamber, where, when used, more high temperatures going on repeated combustion process.

The design of the oven is cylindrical a shape tightly wrapped around pipes fixed together carcass. Due repeated firewood combustion process, efficiency increases up to 80%, which allows economically heat any low-rise buildings.

The principle of operation of the Buleryan furnace is subject to the laws of physics: into pipes, located on the furnace body, gets cold air that is under the influence high oven temperatures, circulates up the pipes and hits into the room to warm it up.

Constant circulation leads to the fact that the room continuously heated. One laying firewood (depending on the stove model) will be enough for 6-10 hours combustion process.

We make the Buleryan oven with our own hands

Required material

For independent manufacturing Buleryan to you would need:

• Sheet metal and used gas cylinder;
• Pipes metal of the required diameter ( 5 - 6 cm.);
• Welding;
• Pipe bender ( bender);
• Work tool: hammer, electrodes, metal shears, rubber gloves, grinder.

Stages of work

Workflow breaks down into stages:

1. Bending preparation the right amount pipes;
2. Installation of a device for collecting condensate and removing smoke;
3. Production of doors and shutters;
4. Preparation of components for the manufacture of a frame from pipes with subsequent installation on the furnace structure;
5. Checking the furnace for further operation.

Tips for selecting materials for the Pellet boiler and its assembly in this article:

To make a stove at home best to use finished drawings with dimensions. Independent size changes in order to improve the performance of the device can only worsen build quality and affect the operation of the furnace.

Start off production is necessary with training necessary quantity pipes (the most advantageous quantity from 8 before 10 pieces). Pieces (8 or 10) long are cut from the pipe 1.2-1.4 m and under a certain radius (for example, at an angle of 80º) bend them special device- pipe bender.

Note: the laying of the prepared pipes is carried out in a checkerboard pattern on top of each other, with the bends turned in different directions.

In inner part housing in a horizontal direction is mounted (welded) pallet. For exclusion smoke entering the room is made T - shaped pipe, in the lower part of which is mounted tap for covering. By periodically opening the faucet, delete accumulation of condensing moisture in the furnace.


Further installed damper, whose task is to control traction and removal carbon monoxide through the chimney. Then you need to prepare front doors, intended for blew construction, which will also be equipped damper, tightly covering access oxygen.

You may be interested in an article about the advantage and arrangement of a solar furnace:

Front door the most difficult part of the structure, it must hermetically stick to the oven. They weld it on two rings different in diameter, but with a small difference. In received gap tightly stuffed between the rings asbestos cloth or thread. Installed in the inner ring damper. The door must have a well fixed Castle. rear the wall is made in a similar way.

Next stage– manufacturing tubular frame. To do this, small holes are made in the workpiece and pipes are installed in them, which are welded to the injection pipes. Their task is to ensure the interaction of convection elements and the furnace. Via partitions a frame is welded from steel jumpers. Cut from sheet steel stripes width 6 - 8 cm, which are then welded to the pipes.

As a finished firebox, you can use cut along the right size gas cylinder. Some craftsmen improve design, installing on the body water circuit. About the principles of operation of the furnace Buleryan with a water casing tells in detail

Left attach legs to already finished frame ovens and install on her front door. After cleaning and cosmetic grinding of the surface, the structure is ready for installation. Before using the oven, remember test device. How to do this will be described below.

From my own experience I know that buying even the simplest heating furnace could be a serious blow to the budget. common man. After reviewing the many designs available, I decided to give preference to buleryan. A homemade modification of a well-known foreign heating stove has taken root in my garage.

Do-it-yourself buleryan oven - drawings and assembly diagram

First, I prepared everything you need to assemble Buleryan with your own hands. First of all, I took out a drill from the pantry with a set of drills for all occasions, a grinder with discs from the kit, clamps and other little things.

I had to fiddle with materials. In order for Buleryan to be truly reliable and of high quality, I decided to make it from heat-resistant boiler steel. This material is able to provide a truly long and reliable operation heating unit. Find in your household or buy the material mentioned in a specialized store.

I also used a 4 mm thick steel sheet. A sheet measuring 100x200 cm was enough for me. In addition, I needed a little (40x70 cm) 6 mm steel sheet, about 4 meters of a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm, about 10 m of a profiled pipe with dimensions of 57x4 mm. In addition, I bought handles, hinges and locks for arranging doors, prepared pieces of a 35-centimeter pipe and, in general, several metal blanks just in case.

Homemade buleryan: a detailed guide

First I bent the 57mm pipe. For this I used special tool- pipe bender I cut the pipe at 120 cm, and then bent it with a 225 mm radius.

As a result, I got 8 pipes. According to the design of the buleryan, I installed 4 pipes on each side of it, placing them in a checkerboard pattern. As a result, the depth of the heating unit was 45.6 cm.

Then I made a retraction in the form of the letter "T". I will then install it behind the buleryan. This design will simultaneously remove smoke and collect condensate. Test at the end. If everything is done correctly, then the smoke will go up, and the condensed moisture will flow down.

Installed a faucet underneath. A very handy thing. As condensation accumulates, simply turn the tap and all the moisture will go away. I tried to keep the tap constantly open, it’s better not to do this - unnecessary traction appears.

A damper was installed in the outlet to regulate the draft, as well as the intensity of combustion in the buleryan.

I fixed a similar, but already deaf damper on the blower of the front door.

To fasten the dampers, I fixed a spring on their axis. It presses the dampers more strongly in the pipe and better fixes them in the desired position. In general, the dampers "walk" 90 degrees.

I took a 350x4 pipe and cut off two 4-centimeter pieces from it. I cut one piece and stretched it, turning it outward. I inserted a 4x4 cm shank into the gap. As a result, I got 2 rings with diameters of 35 and about 36 cm. That is, one ring should quietly, but tightly enter the second.

The second ring on the front wall of the buleryan.

The rings were welded to the places allotted for them. What bigger size, took for the door. I made a third ring from the tavern - the inner one for the door. As a result, I got it inside the ring on the stove door and its wall. I sealed the gap between the rings on the door with an asbestos cord.

The door should close as tightly as possible - this is necessary for normal gas generation. Of course, convection pipes can also cope well with this, however, having tested the design enough, I realized that it is a tight door in combination with a metered and controlled air supply that makes gas generation more efficient. Therefore, it is better to spend a little more time and seal the door with high quality.

A heat shield was welded to the door on spacers. Then I welded a corner to the screen. Thanks to the corner, a more even distribution of air will be ensured. Additionally, the corner will not allow firewood to pass into the lid during closing.

After that, I made cuts in the first pair of pipes and inserted the injection tubes there. I used tubes with a diameter of 1.4 cm. 15 cm was enough in length. As for me, this is the most best option. The installed pipes will be in constant communication with the firebox through convection pipes, which will ensure combustion.

Then I framed steel pipes. Do not forget: insert the injection tubes into the first pipes. The following pipes are on their own.

Then I made a partition from a thick (like I took about 6 mm) sheet of metal. Use the thickest metal possible if possible. It will heat up very strongly in the combustion chamber and, if not thick enough, will burn out extremely quickly. The partition is best done according to the pattern - it's more convenient. Make the pattern itself from thick cardboard in size.

I collect the skeleton of the stove. Installed a partition

Then I boiled the place between the convection pipes. I also used templates. First I made them from thick cardboard, and then cut them out of heat-resistant metal.

Made a castle. The design is simple: the eccentric is captured by the loop attached to the furnace wall, and while scrolling, it presses the door to the body.

Making such a castle yourself is not very simple, but possible. You have to use a milling cutter and a lathe. The design itself, as I said, is extremely simple. At the same time, the lock is very effective.

Loops made from incisors. You can use any suitable similar blank.

Then I attached the air injector to the top of the front edge of the case. In fact, it allows you to additionally regulate the combustion in the firebox of homemade buleryan. The injector will open and close by turning the hole in the tubes.

Welded legs to buleryan.

Installed and downloaded a test batch of firewood.

Buleryan flooded. Everything went great.

This oven is ready. I will say in advance: in practice, everything is a little more difficult than in words. But you can get a stove with an efficiency of 75-80% at minimal financial cost. Such a buleryan can heat almost any space - from a barn to a living room.

After using this a little, I decided to improve it. If you want, you can do the same as me.

The features of the device of the stove in question are such that it can initially qualitatively and evenly distribute oxygen inside itself. Tubes at the bottom draw in cold oxygen, and heated air is removed from those installed at the top. If you wish, you can provide forced circulation oxygen.

I took tubes of a suitable diameter and welded adapters from them to the holes in the stove pipe located below. From one end of the adapter I muffled.

The other side is connected to the fan.

I decided to use "snail" fan models. To ensure their work in my case, a 90-watt engine at 2800 rpm was enough.

The results are excellent - after the modification, Buleryan began to work even more efficiently.

I am also thinking about connecting a corrugation to the upper outlets and spreading it along different directions- a complete heating system will turn out.

You can think of instructions in your own way. I will gladly read your suggestions and maybe even put something into practice.

My own instructions will help you assemble a reliable, efficient, durable and productive stove with your own hands.

Blueprints

The gas generating furnace Buleryan is characterized by high heat transfer and efficiency. Thanks to the use of convection air flows, it was possible to increase the heating rate, and the use of the pyrolysis process significantly reduced fuel consumption and increased heat transfer.

The device and principle of operation of Buleryan

gas furnace long burning Buleryan was developed by Canadian specialists, especially for the needs of lumberjacks who needed fast heating. unheated premises.

The equipment has two distinctive characteristics, significantly affecting the process and efficiency of building heating:

The solid fuel boiler of long burning Buleryan, from one bookmark of fuel, works for about 6 hours. The furnace is intended for any kind of solid fuel, except for coking coal. Suitable for firebox: firewood, pellets, sawdust and wood chips. Although manufacturers do not recommend making changes to the design, at your own peril and risk, you can convert the boiler for mining.

Is it possible to put Buleryan in a residential building

Canadian pyrolysis boilers on solid fuel of long burning Buleryan, were originally designed to heat residential unheated buildings in which lumberjacks lived in winter period time. Since its inception, the design of the furnaces has been somewhat modified. Each manufacturer has contributed to the change.

At the moment, the installation of the Buleryan furnace in wooden house or any other building is fully justified. Boilers gained particular popularity due to the ability to quickly heat unheated premises: garages, country houses and summer cottages, warehouses, shops, etc. A stove with a minimum performance, it is easy to cope with heating a room up to 100 m³.

It is possible to heat an apartment building with several floors. To do this, you will need to make a heating system using air ducts.

How to put Buleryan in the house

In order to properly install a pyrolysis oven for a house on Buleryan long-burning wood, the features of the work, as well as the manufacturer's recommendations regarding installation, are taken into account. The efficiency and performance of equipment is significantly affected by errors made during installation and subsequent operation.

One of the important requirements is to ensure unhindered circulation of heated air flows in the room. Obstacles in the way of convection flows lead to the appearance of unheated zones, as well as unevenly heated areas in the room.

In addition to the features of the movement of convection currents, during installation, take into account existing norms fire safety, manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of air ducts and other nuances.

Fire safety standards when installing Buleryan

Although the Buleryan heating boiler is on solid fuel, makes maximum use of the heat released during combustion, the temperature of the waste flue gases still exceeds 300°C. The PPB standards require that fire cuts be made when the chimney passes through the floor slabs and the roof, install protective screen on Buleryan's body, follow other recommendations:

One of the main problems of installing Buleryan in a residential area is the strong heating of the furnace body. If you touch the surface, you can easily get burned. It will be necessary to ensure the safety of residents by installing protective cover or lining the oven with bricks.

Do I need a foundation for Buleryan

The all-metal construction of Buleryan with numerous pipes welded into it weighs from 57 kg (minimum weight) and more. Average weight is about 100 kg. Based on these parameters and following the installation manual, there is no need to make a foundation for the furnace.

As an exception, we can single out the situation when, when installing the Buleryan furnace, it is planned to overlay the body with bricks. Although safety requirements do not require the manufacture concrete foundation, the owners may decide to make it to ensure maximum safety, fire protection and stability of the boiler.

In most cases, a wooden floor is covered with a sheet of non-combustible material, with thermal insulation placed under it.

How to dilute heat from Buleryan in rooms

Buleryan's design is designed to heat a room that does not have internal walls and partitions. Any obstacles in the way of convection currents of heated air reduce the heating efficiency.

To increase the volume of a heated room or make it possible to heat a building with more than 1 floor, air ducts are used.

Air heating of several rooms based on Buleryan will require some alteration of the design of the furnace itself. It is optimal that the location of the air ducts is planned at the manufacturing stage. project documentation, which is especially important in the construction of 2 storey building. Preliminary planning will make it possible to provide special ventilation ducts for laying pipes connected to the furnace convectors.

There are some rules for installing flexible metal hoses for distributing heat in several rooms:

If you use Buleryan wood-fired hot air boilers as the main source of heating, with sleeves for supplying warm air to other rooms, you can solve the problem of autonomous heating of large buildings with several floors and the presence of a large number of rooms.

Is it possible to overlay Buleryan with bricks

Ennoble Buleryan with ceramic brick often required for several reasons:

1. Ensure safe operation.
2. Complete the design of the Buleryan furnace in the interior of the house.

A model with a glass door looks especially beautiful after facing, resembling a fireplace or a Russian stove in appearance.

When performing work, take into account the following nuances:

• The size of the stand for the stove, depending on the model, is 25-30 cm. Brickwork is done so that the hole for the firebox is approximately 40-45 cm from the floor level.
• During masonry, convection holes are left for the intake and removal of heated air.

Styling the Buleryan stove as a stove or fireplace, if you have certain building skills, is quite easy to do on your own.

How to convert Buleryan for testing

As already noted, Buleryan is not intended to work in detention. But if desired, it is possible to remake the Buleryan stove so that it works for burning waste oil. You can do this in two ways:

• A dropper is installed for testing - this method does not require large material costs. The oil tank is installed. A hole is cut in the furnace for the tube, a valve is installed that regulates the supply of fuel.
  The main condition for operation is the presence of good traction and a low oil supply rate. The disadvantage of the solution is low heat transfer and design performance.
• A nozzle (burner) is placed inside the furnace (usually on the door) for testing. Just a few years ago, the manufacture of a burner for converting the Buleryan furnace to used oil fell entirely on the shoulders of the local Kulibins, which often led to a quick failure of the furnace, the frequent need to clean the chimney and other troubles.
  Now you can purchase a ready-made burner that provides the maximum percentage of oil combustion. A homemade used oil burner for Buleryan is significantly inferior in terms of its characteristics to factory products.

All risks associated with changes in the design of Buleryan are fully borne by the buyer of the unit. Claims and complaints after the modification are not accepted by the manufacturer.

How to choose a Buleryan boiler

To select a suitable convection-type gas generating oven, several important parameters are taken into account:

1. Required power.
2. Availability of additional features.
3. Manufacturer.
4. The cost of the furnace and installation.

The right decision will allow you to enjoy the operation of the furnace and save you from unnecessary worries and discontent.

How to choose the volume Buleryan

The technical characteristics of the pyrolysis heating furnace Buleryan are indicated in the operating instructions attached by the manufacturer. In particular, the documentation clearly stipulates how much space a particular model of a solid fuel boiler can heat.

In foreign Buleryan models, the parameters are indicated in m³, in domestic counterparts in m².

Buleryan with hob

In addition to heating the building from a TT furnace installed in country house, other functions are pending. A nice bonus is the possibility of cooking or heating water. For this purpose, Canadian gas-generating stoves of the Buleryan type are designed for heating and cooking, with a flat top.

If it is planned to line the boiler under the “Russian stove”, the hob is not covered with bricks, but is made flush with the last row of masonry.

Installing a Bullerjan Long Burning Furnace with hob, allows you to provide the necessary amount hot water and prepare the necessary food. In the combustion mode, in 10-15 minutes, 6 liters of water are heated to a boil.

What factories produce Buleryan

Despite the name, "Canadian stoves" have long been produced at factories located in Russia itself and neighboring countries. Judging by customer reviews, the main demand is for the products of three companies.

Kievsky Novaslav is a Ukrainian company specializing in the manufacture of stove equipment for baths, saunas, and heating of residential and industrial premises. The stoves are presented in the following series:

NMK is a Novosibirsk metalworking company that manufactures stoves, boilers, and all the necessary accessories and components for connection. On the basis of the NMK enterprise, convection ovens Sibir BV Buleryan are produced. You can buy the following products:


Eurosib is a Russian company specializing in the production of all-metal structures. The main feature of the proposed models is the presence hob in some models. Eurosib LLC offers the consumer several basic product modifications:

How much does a solid fuel boiler Buleryan cost

Several factors affect the cost of a furnace:

• Performance- the difference is obvious if, for example, we compare the cost of Eurosib furnaces. A model designed to heat 100 m³ will cost approximately 9-11 thousand rubles, the purchase of a powerful convection oven for 1200 m³ will cost the owner from 42 to 45 thousand rubles.
• Availability hob – models with the possibility of cooking have a lower capacity and are mainly intended for heating not large rooms. The price, in comparison with similar products with convection outlets, is 10-15% higher.
• Manufacturer - this factor practically does not affect the cost. If you purchase equipment of similar power, then its cost will be almost identical.
• Installation - the cost of installing Buleryan on a turnkey basis will add about 20-30% to the price of equipment, depending on the contractor.

The main difficulty and feature that is taken into account when installing with your own hands is the installation of the chimney. Insufficient traction leads to increased soot deposition on the pipe walls and a decrease in the performance of the convection oven.

Buleryan - reviews and comparisons

At one time, the release of Buleryan was a real breakthrough in the field of heating systems, causing extremely enthusiastic comments. At the moment, negative reviews have already appeared, allowing you to see the shortcomings of convection ovens.

Before purchasing Buleryan of any model, you should familiarize yourself with the opinion of experts about Buleryan furnaces. The real experience of those who have been using the heat generator for some time will also not be superfluous and will allow them to prepare and possibly avoid common operating errors that lead to a decrease in performance and deterioration of thermal performance.

Why, when melting Buleryan, smoke comes out of all holes

If, during kindling, smoke comes out of the blower, the reason usually lies in one of the following violations:

• Insufficient chimney height- the pipe, according to SNiP, must be more than 5 meters and rise above the roof. The calculation is performed depending on the distance from the visor. Insufficient height leads to a deterioration in traction characteristics, which is especially noticeable when kindling.
• Switching to gasification mode is included– the sliding damper must be in the normal burning position (open) during kindling. When switching to the gasification mode, the area of ​​​​the outlet in the damper is reduced in order to reduce the intensity of combustion and make the fuel literally smolder in the chamber.
• Narrowing of the chimney channel- Another common reason is the overgrowth of the internal lumen of the pipe, due to the deposition of resins on the walls and the accumulation of condensate. Cleaning the chimney will eliminate this problem.

What are the tricks to extend the burning process of Buleryan

In fact, there are no special tricks. At correct operation oven, it is guaranteed to work for 8-10 hours on one tab of firewood. During the furnace, it is recommended to adhere to the operating rules described in detail in the technical documentation:

• The correct position of the power regulator and the gasification regulator during kindling in normal combustion mode. After reaching a temperature in the combustion chamber above 230°C, the furnace is switched to the gas generation mode.
• The pyrolysis process requires that the fuel meet certain requirements, the main of which is a maximum moisture content of up to 20%. In the gas generation mode, CO is released. Afterburning of gases takes place in a special chamber, separated from the furnace, which makes it possible to obtain an additional amount of thermal energy.
  The efficiency of Buleryan directly depends on the total volume of produced gas. Maximum performance is achieved when using moderately moist fuel (moisture no more than 20%).

In the process of kindling, it will be necessary to regulate the operation of the stove. Most models have a built-in heating regulator for convection air flows, which allows you to choose the most comfortable mode and, if necessary, reduce the consumption of fuel used.

Which oven is better - Buleryan or Butakov

Buleryan's main competitor is the products of the domestic company Termofor, which manufactures several models of convection equipment, which differ from the "Canadian" in their design and performance. It is worth comparing the most common of them: and.

Comparative characteristics productivity and efficiency of long-burning furnaces Buleryan and Butakov:

• Heating rate- Buleryan begins to give off heat almost immediately after kindling, the domestic counterpart will take about half an hour to warm up.
• Gas generation - Buleryan does not burn out from 30 to 50% of the emitted gas according to various sources. In Butakov's stoves, this ratio is less, only up to 30%.
• Structural differences- Butakov's furnace is not protected by convection pipes. Often, the body is heated red-hot. The chance of getting burned is quite high. The oven is not designed to be heated by connecting ventilation pipes, therefore, it is used only for heating one room.
  Buleryan's body heats up less. When connecting air ducts, it is possible to heat rooms located on several floors.
• Efficiency - for both designs is within 70%.

A comparison of the Butakov stove and the Canadian "potbelly stove" Buleryan shows the clear advantages of the latter. The domestic heat generator is suitable for heating unheated buildings that do not have internal partitions. Buleryan has a wider scope. The cost per "Canadian" is more, only about 5%. Buleryan is definitely better.

Which is better - Buleryan or Fire Battery

The main structural difference between the Fire Battery model, from the Termofor company, is a unique case, made in the form of a conventional steel radiator, which has ribs like a conventional battery.

The principle of secondary air supply is used, which significantly reduces the rigidity of the radiation emanating from metal surface. Structural changes made it possible to increase the percentage of afterburning of exhaust gases, to reduce the amount of remaining ash. Separately, it should be noted good protection housing to prevent burns.

The device and principle of operation of a gas-fired wood-burning heating stove Buleryan is somewhat inferior to Termofor convection "batteries". But the Fire Battery has a significant drawback - they cannot be used to heat several rooms at once. metal furnaces on wood for the house of long-term burning Buleryan, thanks to its design, they allow you to do this.

If heating of one room in an unheated building is required, it is better to choose the Fire Battery model. For heating large rooms with several rooms and floors, Buleryan is your choice.

The Bulerjan oven (“Buleryan”) has many advantages: it quickly heats the room, large firewood can burn up to 6-8 hours in smoldering mode, it is safe and has an efficiency of about 80% (these are branded units). Its design is so thought out that it is difficult to find a negative review from the owner.

The disadvantages include:

• fuel requirements. Only firewood or the results of its processing are used: firewood, wood chips, paper, cardboard, pellets and (briquettes can also be made from peat). With all this, the firewood must be dry - no more than 15% humidity.
• Accumulation of caustic condensate. It is difficult to dispose of it (it is impossible to pour it out near the house - it is poisonous).
• Active formation of soot in the chimney, which is why it must be periodically cleaned. But soot is formed from raw firewood. If you use dry ones, the problem will not be so acute.

These are all cons. If speak about self-manufacturing, so from this point of view minus - complex structure: the presence of a large number of welds and high requirements for their quality. Therefore, if you don’t have enough experience in welding, think carefully, because ready-made Buleryans are not so expensive. If you have to buy pipes, pay for them to be bent into the desired shape, buy metal (and a thickness of 4 mm is required), then the savings will be very small. You decide.

The design of the Buleryan furnace is difficult to make with your own hands

If you still decide to make it yourself, in order to understand what and why. Let's figure out how it works and how it works.

The structure of the Buleryan furnace and the principles of operation

The oven has original design, in which everything is subordinated to the main task: the rapid heating of the air in the room, and then maintaining the temperature.

The body of the furnace consists of parabola-shaped pipes, between which strips of metal are welded. The pipes are mostly located inside the firebox, protruding only 1/3 of their diameter. Such a system is a highly efficient heat exchanger, in which air acts as a heat carrier. As soon as the furnace is ignited, air is sucked into the lower ends of the pipes, which takes away most of the thermal energy from the heated metal. This stream is very intense. With active combustion, 4-6 cubes of air pass through six pipes per minute, and its outlet temperature exceeds 120 ° C (up to 150 ° C).

Active combustion is not the main mode of operation of this furnace. Most of the time the fuel smolders. Then the air in the pipes no longer burns “only” 60-70 ° C, but the body temperature is around 50 ° C (of course, not immediately after the “buildup”).

The firebox inside is divided into three parts: the bottom ¼ part is separated by a grate, the top ¼ is also allocated for the afterburner. The grate is either a standard cast-iron grate or a steel grate made of steel at least 4 mm thick. The upper partition does not reach the door by about a quarter of its length. And this is not a solid sheet, but with holes. Through these openings, air from the furnace enters the fenced-off afterburning zone to maintain the combustion of gases. Hole area - about 7% of total area partitions.

In the upper part of the rear wall there is an outlet for venting gases. A damper / gate is installed here, which has a smaller diameter (a gap of about 10-15% of the chimney diameter). Additionally, a sector of 90 o is cut out in the damper. This device allows you to adjust the draft, but the existing gaps will not allow carbon monoxide at any position of the gate go into the room. This will not happen even if open door. Then, however, the room will dry out completely, but safety is above all.

Further in "Buleryany" from the pipe there is not a chimney pointing upwards, but a horizontal section of the pipe in which the unburned pyrolysis gases cool down a little (this is intentional). Then the chimney bends up. Here, the “branded” Bulerjan has an economizer. This is a heavily insulated section of the pipe, in which pyrolysis gases from the furnace are periodically burned out. ABOUT .

"Buleryan" factory-made with an economizer

Here's how it works. Partially cooled gases pass into the section of the insulated pipe. A certain amount of thermal energy has already accumulated here. The gases heat up again and flare up. Due to the rise in temperature, they expand, and since they have nowhere to go in the pipe, they clog the chimney. A gas plug is formed (this phenomenon is known to stove-makers and owners of their unsuccessful creations). Gases burn out and cool down, the cork dissolves. For some time, the oven works like a conventional oven until the required amount of heat is accumulated in the economizer. This process is spontaneous. The frequency and duration depend on the characteristics of the firewood and the position of the shutters.

To regulate the intensity of fuel combustion, there is a throttle in the stove door that blocks the air flow. The door itself is usually round and big size so that you can lay large logs - these are the most the best way for the smoldering mode. But this is not the most important thing. It is important to ensure a tight fit of the door: combustion products should not leak through it. This is also the difficulty of making pyrolysis ovens with your own hands.

With the design and principle of operation, it seems, they figured it out. Now you can start assembling parts and components.

What is needed for Buleryan

For the manufacture of the oven you need:

• Sections of thick-walled pipes with a diameter of at least 60 mm. It is not worth taking a smaller diameter: the air flow through them will be insufficient.
• Sheet of metal with a thickness of 4 mm.
• A small piece of thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 350 mm (rings are cut from it to make a door) or a sheet of metal for cutting strips, which then need to be bent.
• A piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-120 mm is for the chimney and a small piece for making the throttle body on the door.
• Hinges for fastening the door.
• Handle-lock for the door, handle-lever for the throttle and damper-gate.
• Asbestos cord for sealing.

Of the devices - a pipe bender and welding machine from consumables(electrodes).

The most normal drawing that could be found is presented below. But it indicates the dimensions for pipes 50 mm. This is not the best option (better if the pipe diameter is 60 mm). But it can be taken as a basis.

Drawing "Buleryan" (click to enlarge the picture)

The exact drawings of "branded" stoves are a trade secret. And to find them in the public domain is unrealistic. But the drawing of Buleryan, which is given, is already a good basis.

Sequencing

Pipe sections are bent with desired diameter. The size of the furnace depends on the number of pieces, therefore, the burning time, but it makes no sense to make a very “multi-tube” battery: its efficiency will be deplorable. Therefore, as in the original, we take 6-8 pieces.

They need to be captured somehow. Someone uses auxiliary safety straps for this, and someone makes a frame into which they insert workpieces and then weld them.

Since to assembled pipes anyway, it will be necessary to weld the grates and, then you can immediately weld the corners in these places, which will serve as a frame. Then lay a grate and a partition on them.

After the skeleton is assembled, mark out the strips of metal and weld them so that only a third of the pipe remains on top.

Now make/buy grate bars. If the grates are made by ourselves, then it is better not from reinforcement, but from metal strips. Ideally, they should have a triangular section (top down) or trapezoidal. It is better not to fasten the grate tightly - this part most often needs to be replaced. Therefore, it is desirable to weld a metal corner inside, on which you can lay them.

You make the upper partition from a sheet of metal. The sidewalls turn out to be of a complex configuration: you have to cut semicircles for pipes. It’s easier to first cut out patterns from cardboard, fit, and then transfer the shape to metal. The length of the partition does not reach the door by ¼. Cut holes in the plate at least 7% of the total area. Weld into place. Please note that the seams must be sealed.

Cut out the back wall. It is also easier to transfer it to cardboard first. Make a hole for the chimney pipe. The chimney begins in the upper fenced off part, fenced off by a partition. Don't miss. Weld the back wall (the seam is tight).

Now you can start making the front wall and door. This is one of the most difficult parts to manufacture. Cut out the front wall in the same way as the back. Now we make a hole for the door. Here it should be located closer to the grate, but above it. The diameter of the door, in principle, should be as large as possible - so that large logs can fit. To the edge of the hole, weld a strip of metal about 10 mm thick perpendicular to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe front wall. This will be a side to ensure the tight fit of the door.

The front wall and the door are one of the most difficult nodes (click to enlarge the picture)

Now let's make a door. Its diameter is slightly larger than the cut hole. Along the edge of the disk and slightly stepping back from it, we weld two strips of metal (or rings from a pipe of a suitable diameter) about 15 mm high. Their location should be such that the welded strip on the front wall passes between the two strips on the door. In the gap between the strips, we lay an asbestos cord-seal.

Now let's start making the throttle. Throttle body diameter - 22-25 mm. Its length is about 100 mm. Finding a piece of pipe suitable sizes. In it, at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge, we make two holes located radially. We insert a metal bar into these holes, which we bend on one side - this will be the throttle handle. We cut out a circle of metal, a slightly smaller diameter than the body pipe. This is a shutter. We insert the damper into the body and weld it to the bar. Got an adjustable damper.

Throttle / blower is attached to the door at the top (click to enlarge the picture)

We attach the finished throttle to the door. We make a hole in its upper part and weld it. Now it remains to install the hinges and constipation. Having hung the finished door, we check the quality of all seams.

Similarly to the slide damper, we make a damper for the chimney. With the only difference that they use other

The chimney resembles the letter "T", in the part that adjoins the body there is a damper

diameters and from the damper it is necessary to cut a sector of 90 o. From the stove comes a horizontal section of the chimney pipe up to one meter long. A second section is welded to it so that the design resembles the letter "T". In the part that adjoins the body, insert the damper. The sequence is similar to the manufacture of a throttle valve: two radial holes in the body, through them a metal rod, weld the valve to the rod, bend one part of the wire to make a handle.

Now it remains to weld the stand: for effective work the stove should be at a height of at least 25-30 cm from the floor, although for many it stands directly on the pipes. But in this case, a non-combustible base-pedestal made of bricks is required. Here you can choose for yourself: either cook a stand from pipes, or build a brick block (on the recommendation of the company - in four rows of bricks laid flat on a clay mortar).

The design of the furnace and the sequence of actions in the manufacture of Buleryan with your own hands is illustrated in the video below.

This option is great way It will also come in handy in warehouses or other industrial premises: quickly, in a matter of minutes, it reaches the set mode (20-30 minutes) and heats up a room of 20 squares in 40-50 minutes.

Easy option

This design is only similar to the original. From there, the location of the chambers and the presence of pipes are taken. In this embodiment, a thick-walled barrel is used as a body. Curved pipes are welded onto the body from above. In this option, it is important to perfectly fit the bend to the existing barrel.

You can make something similar to Buleryan from a barrel. It remains to weld the pipes and put the door

The contact surface will be small anyway, and if the pipes do not fit snugly, then there will be no point in them at all. Then the whole process is similar:

• Divide the interior of the barrel into three zones by installing grates and a partition.
• You make the front wall, the door, attach the throttle to it, weld the hinges and hang the door. Weld into place.
• Now in the back wall (which was the bottom) cut a hole for the chimney, weld the chimney pipe, weld the “T”-shaped chimney. We manufacture and install the damper, assemble the entire structure.

This option is not an example easier. But in terms of performance, it will be slightly better than a potbelly stove and it will warm up the room much more slowly than the first option. Instead, the temperature of the case will be much higher and the heat will come from the case to a much greater extent, and most of the heat will be transferred by hard radiation from the case, and not through the heated air. High efficiency"Buleryanov" is formed thanks to "recessed" pipes and "economizer". Immediately, the pipes go on top and there is no afterburner device. That's less efficiency. But in manufacturing it is twice as easy.