How to use the edge for the countertop with glue. How to glue the edge on the chipboard at home. original table tops

The main task furniture edge is the facing of the end surfaces of the chipboard, but it also serves as a design element in the finished cabinet furniture. In fact, there are quite a few types of edges that differ in material, fastening method and price, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's look at all these points in more detail.

In general, the edges can be divided according to the following characteristics: Material

Paper
plastic
Metal (aluminum profile)

Width (Popular)

22 mm
28 mm
34 mm
38 mm
Rarely 45-55 mm
Sometimes found up to 170 mm

Thickness (Popular)

0.4mm
0.6mm
Generally exists from 0.2mm to 10mm

With or without glue (if without glue, then you need a machine to apply it) By type of attachment(rigid, overhead, mortise (P - shaped, T - shaped)) By type of surface(smooth, glossy, embossed, structured, colored, etc.) The most common (sorted in descending order) and used today are:

PVC (thickness 1 and 2 mm, width 22 and 34 mm, depending on the thickness of the board)
ABS (thickness from 0.4-2mm)
Melamine edge with paper backing (thickness 0.4-0.6 mm)

Melamine

This is a furniture edge made on paper basis and impregnated with melamine resins. They protect the base from external influences. Hence the name of the edge - melamine. To date, it is the cheapest and most affordable, therefore it is very often used in furniture production but to be honest, the quality of such furniture leaves much to be desired.

Advantages

A wide range of decors, which, according to color scheme as close as possible to chipboard
Does not require expensive equipment for gluing and processing
Easy to use, even at home with an iron
Inexpensive price

disadvantages

Very thin (0.4 mm - 0.6 mm)
Low resistance to mechanical stress
Poor moisture protection
Drawing (structure) does not last long

You can learn more about working with melamine edging.

ABS edging (ABS) - Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene

It is a durable impact-resistant thermoplastic that does not contain harmful substances, and is also very easy to use and handle.

Advantages

Does not lose color or deform
High-quality, rich matte and glossy colors
Has a perfect smooth surface
Does not emit harmful substances
Less hazardous than other materials when heated and processed

disadvantages

High cost (compared to the same PVC, and especially melamine)

In fact, ABS is used in different types furniture, but it will be especially relevant in the manufacture of actually quality furniture, which should have higher operational properties, and especially when you need increased resistance of furniture to moisture and chemical environment. ABS wrap technology.

PVC edge

A fairly popular furniture edge for facing the end surfaces of laminated chipboard. All thanks to the perfect price-quality ratio.
Due to the PVC obtained by extrusion, the plastic is able to withstand temperatures from minus 10 to plus 50 0 C.

Advantages

Durability and wear resistance
Reliable protection of the ends against moisture and mechanical damage
Resistant to alkalis, acids, fats and salt solutions
fire resistant

disadvantages

For gluing, you need a special melt adhesive with a minimum threshold for the start of melting
Impossible to achieve a perfectly glossy surface

As with ABS, for a strong grip pvc glue edges with a chipboard end, it is necessary to apply a thin invisible layer of a special substance, the so-called "Primer". You can learn more about the technology for gluing PVC edges.

PVC Profile

This is another type of furniture edges for facing chipboard ends. Made from high quality pvc plastic with a special high-strength coating.

Characteristics:

Large range of colors (wood with structure, metallic, glossy, plain)
Applies to chipboard, thickness 16.18 and 32mm
Material (soft and hard)

There are several types of PVC profile

P - figurative (consignment note)

Flexible
Hard

T - figurative (mortise)

With girth
Without girth

Thanks to its “sides”, it is able to perfectly hide chips and irregularities on the ends of parts, the cuts of which were made with a poor-quality or poorly sharpened saw. In some cases, when conceived by the designer, it is also an element of decor. More details on facing the end surfaces of chipboard with this type of profile.

3D Edge: 3D Acrylic Edge (PMMA-3D)

Polymethyl methacrylate-based edgeband, consisting of two main layers, the lower one with decorative trim or drawing, and the top one - from transparent plastic.

Through the use of transparent plastic as the top layer, a three-dimensional effect can be observed, which is why it is called 3D edging. Top edge always goes protective film, which you remove after trimming. Those. first you paste over with a 3D chipboard edge, cut it off, and only after that remove the protective layer. It is better if you remove it after installing the furniture, so as not to damage the glossy surface.

Advantages

Such a furniture edge is very hard (thickness from 1.3 mm) and durable, due to which it is highly resistant to mechanical damage and quite successfully protects furniture edges from bumps and scratches throughout its entire service life.

disadvantages

The disadvantage is its high cost.

Postforming and Softforming

This is very quality ways edging of the ends of chipboard, which are made on special machines. They are mainly used for facing the end surfaces of kitchen worktops and facades, as well as window sills and bathroom furniture, since it is in this way that the stove can be completely sealed. In fact, postforming and softforming is a method of applying laminate to pre-milled ends of chipboard.

They are released into ready-made, have different width and sold running meters, and the edges that are cut are sealed with a PVC edge, or with aluminum docking strips, as is the case with a kitchen worktop. There is not much difference between postforming and softforming, and in both cases this technology is the application of a durable polymer material on the end of the part. The only difference is that when using postforming, it is possible to laminate a straight end with rounded edges, the radius of which is at least 3 mm. In the case of softforming, the ends with different kind embossed surface, and even with an internal one (groove for glass). That is, the end of the chipboard can be milled in the same way as in MDF, and easily laminated using this method. For example, the front end kitchen worktop Chipboard 32 mm was obtained by postforming, and the facade (and a laminated glass groove) was obtained by softforming.

Video: types of furniture edges

Melamine edging is a traditional edging material used in the manufacture of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard. Although there are more wear-resistant edging materials available today, for example on PVC based or ABS, melamine edging occupies one of the first places in terms of applicability. There are two main reasons for this: low price and simplicity of edging technology. Let's show how, with the help of simple and affordable tools, you can qualitatively edge a chipboard part.

Edging tools:

Iron. Any will do, but preferably small sizes, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and without deep scratches.
Knife. You can work with an ordinary clerical (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. Also, a shoe knife and a knife from a planer are suitable. There are special ready-made devices for fast edge trimming, for example, from Virutex.
bar with sandpaper. You can buy ready-made or make it yourself by sticking a piece of sandpaper on a workpiece that is suitable in size (it is convenient when the bar has different parties sandpaper of different grits). The recommended grain size is 150 units.

Edge technology.

It should be said that the quality of the edging largely depends on how well the chipboard is cut. The surface of the end face of the part should be flat, without a visible step from the scoring (saw) disk of the panel saw, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when the chip had just begun to form. High-quality and fast cutting of chipboard is carried out only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. Edgebanding is sold in coils of 200 pm, but almost always it can be bought in 1 pm or more. A typical melamine edge has a width of 19 mm and a thickness of 0.3-0.4 mm (excluding adhesive thickness).
The process of processing the edge of one end of the part consists of the following steps:

The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the end face being machined is on top.
The edge segment is measured 2-4 cm more than the length of the machined side of the part.
The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; if too high temperature, the edge starts to bubble, at low - it sticks badly or for a long time). It should be pressed with moderate force on the iron. Excessive pressure may cause edge displacement, insufficient pressure may cause non-glue. Indirect confirmation of good edge heating can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the edge and the points of contact with the laminated surfaces of the part.
After warming up the edge, it must be cooled. A small cloth is suitable for this operation. The edge is smoothed with a cloth, pressing lightly so that the edge does not move away when cooling. After the edge has cooled down to approx. 50°C (wait until the edge has room temperature makes no sense), you can start cutting off the excess.
First remove the excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are gently bent down, the edge is broken, the fracture site is lightly sanded with an emery bar and the excess is simply torn off. It remains to work a little more with an emery bar so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or cling).
To cut off the excess edge along the length, it is necessary to set the knife blade at an angle of approximately 45 ° (see photo) and draw the knife along the end of the part. Angle of inclination (adjacent) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not chip). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to slightly process the edges of the end of the part with a bar with sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If a local non-glue is noticed, then the problem area must be heated with an iron and pressed again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.

Edging kit: iron, knife, bar with sandpaper.

Bar with glued sandpaper.

Knife.

We measure the edge.

We leave a small margin in length.

Smooth the edge with a hot iron.

The fracture site has been sanded.

We sew flush.

A chipboard end glued with a melamine edge looks just as good, and sometimes even better, compared to pasting on an inexpensive machine. Today we will figure out how to stick a melamine edge. See detailed instructions step by step.

This furniture end tape made of papyrus paper impregnated with melamine resins for protection against external influences. The thickness of the furniture edge depends on the number of layers of paper used and is no more than 0.4 - 0.6 mm.

Edge width from 15 mm to 45 mm. The most popular sizes are 19/0.4(mm) and 40/0.4(mm).

What parts to glue?

Sidewalls of cabinets, cabinets, tables, as well as internal shelves any home and office furniture.

On parts that have contact with the floor, but are not subjected to wet cleaning,
Interior parts (shelves, drawer interiors),
Elements that will not be subjected to direct physical and mechanical stress.

Required tool:

Bay with end tape,
Iron,
knife cutter,
Wet rag or piece of felt
Bar coated with sandpaper,
Part holder.

Training

In order for the melamine end edge to stick qualitatively and evenly, you need an iron with a flat and thick sole. The best option There will be an iron with a Teflon coating. Also, its surface must be clean and smooth.

For convenient work, it is better to take a sharp knife with a thin handle or find an old knife blade and make a cutter out of it. You can use a spatula.

As a bar, an ordinary piece of chipboard with glued sandpaper on one side (grit from P120) is suitable.

The melamine end edge comes pre-applied with a layer of adhesive. If it suddenly turns out that it does not have an adhesive layer, then it must be applied to the part.

For this operation, we also need a part holder, which can be made from the remnants of chipboard. It looks like this:

Let's start pasting

Unwinding edging tape from the bay (it is more convenient to unwind from the inside) and apply to the end of the chipboard, first we leave a margin for trimming.

Its standard width is 21 mm, and chipboard -16 or 18, the margin remains for trimming and mashing. In order not to have to cut on both sides, it is better to immediately align it on one side, and on the other side it will overlap.

After we put it on, we begin to heat and iron it right along the end. Especially carefully you need to iron the edges of the ends.

Short parts can be ironed as a whole, and if the part is long, we alternately heat sections of 40 cm. After that, cool the end with a slightly damp cloth.

The temperature of the iron is adjusted according to the quality of our tape. It should glide quickly, easily and without friction, without scratching the surface or resisting movement.

About high-quality heating will be signaled by the uniform spreading of the glue under the edge. If overheated, bubbles will appear and it will deteriorate, therefore, monitor the temperature and do not overexpose the iron in one place.

If suddenly you spoil the edge, it will need to be replaced. With the help of heating with an iron and a knife, we remove the old one, clean the end of the glue residue and start all over again.

Qualitatively, the edge will stick only after the final cooling. ONLY after the end has completely cooled down, it will be possible to start trimming and processing edges.

In order to cut off the excess with high quality and evenly, the edge must first be bent with a finger, tapped on the edge and rubbed several times with a bar until we see a white chamfer (this is a paper backing). And you can start trimming the excess.

Video: how to glue a furniture edge on a chipboard

Another video from home master- do-it-yourself pasting of furniture edges:

Like? And it's pretty easy to do so.

how to glue edging tape

And fast. And inexpensive.

For edge finishing laminated chipboard, MDF or plywood, a special melamine tape is used, which is sold in furniture fittings stores. Melamine edging is a paper-based tape used to seal the end furniture board such as chipboard and MDF for example.

There are other materials for finishing the edge: PVC edge, PVC profile, edge from natural veneer etc. But melamine edging tape is still the most popular due to its ease of use.

Today we will look at how to edge furniture boards with this tape.

Recently, we talked about how and with what you can cut chipboard and plywood at home in the usual way. circular saw. After cutting for further use, the cut must be trimmed with an edge tape, which you can easily pick up in size, color and texture in any specialized store.

This is what a neat cut of plywood looks like, which we are going to use for shelves in kitchen cabinets. But it has not yet been glued with an edge, so you can see all the layers of plywood on its cut.

And this is what the same end looks like, but after edging:

We take the edge by the edge, leave a small margin.

On the inside The edge tape is coated with an adhesive that activates when heated. A simple iron is ideal for this.

Lightly iron the end with an iron, step back 2.5 cm and cut off from the roll.

Now thoroughly iron the edge with an iron. If the melamine edge has moved out, there is nothing to worry about.

melamine edging tape with adhesive

While hot, it peels off easily. Therefore, just peel it off, straighten it and iron it again.

When the edge lies flat, as it should, we take a smooth wooden block and, starting from the middle, firmly pressing it to the edge, we draw it first in one direction to the end, then in the second. But you need to do this while the edge has not cooled down yet.

Before cutting off the excess edge, the sheet must be allowed to cool completely. The excess edge is easily cut off with a sharp retractable clerical knife.

The melamine edge is always slightly wider than the thickness of the plywood or chipboard sheet. Excess along the glued end can be cut off with the same knife. But there is also special device. That's what you see in the photo below.

It is very convenient to use, so if you are going to make cabinet furniture with your own hands, then you should think about buying such a tool. Its principle of operation is as follows: we squeeze it with our hand and lead it along the glued end, and it cuts off the excess edge. Cuts very neatly and strictly at right angles.

It moves in both directions - forward and backward.

After the edge is glued, and its excess is cut off, the edges of the end of the sheet become somewhat sharp. And this is not very good, not only because you can get scratched, but rather because it is easier to catch on sharp edges and tear off the finish. Therefore, it is necessary to walk along the end with sandpaper. First medium grit, then fine.

This completes the process of edging plywood or chipboard. Who would have thought that it would be so easy and not long!

Now let's take a closer look at the gluing of a more advanced, compared to melamine, PVC edge. In appearance, they are, in principle, similar, but in performance characteristics differ greatly.

PVC edge is more tear-resistant, it does not chip or wear off. BUT for its sticker requires equipment. Now I will share a method that is available to everyone, but because of its complexity, it simply cannot be widely used - only as one-time promotions.

So, for work we need: a pair of irons (you can use one. The second is needed so as not to wait until the first one cools down), scissors, felt, a metal square, a glove, 0.4 mm PVC edge, a similar amount of melamine edge with glue.

The part should be fixed while standing - so the edge will not fall off.

Larger edge: black melamine with glue, white PVC - 0.4mm without glue (we will glue it).

Cut off a piece of melamine edging along the length of the surface to be glued. We put it on top.

We smooth it with an iron heated to medium values, by analogy with gluing melamics.

Heating the edge with an iron reverse direction, we begin to tear it off the part, while almost all the hot melt adhesive remains on the workpiece.

Larger. The border of the adhesive layer on the edge band is visible.

Step 44-2 Stick 0.4mm PVC Tape on Hot Melt Iron

The glue itself on the parts, however, is not very visible, but believe me, it is there.

We turn to the plastic edge. We cut off a piece of the appropriate length and put it on the part.

Install on the iron minimum temperature(I take iron number 2). And after waiting until it comes in line with the required, we begin to smooth the PVC.

We do this slowly so that the glue has time to melt. An increase in temperature in this case threatens to twist the edge, so you just need to hold it longer.

So gradually warm up the entire edging tape.

Pieces hanging from the edges can be cut with scissors.

It comes out so clean and tidy.

The parts hanging from the sides are cut off with a metal square.

The cut is a little rough

They should be smoothed out with felt. I was also advised here I didn’t try it myself, but they say it polishes at a time.

The edge softens a little, smooths out and falls a little at an angle, that is, it becomes not sharp.

Well, the last photo illustrates the quality of the edging, compared with the tape pasted on the machine. The lower part is manually ironed. Upper - on professional edging equipment.

Everything would be fine, and the quality is high. But here's the problem, it's very time consuming.

Therefore, in the absence of edging equipment, it is possible to glue the edge in this way only if something needs to be cut. In other cases, I personally order edging or use melamine.

Posted in: Practical part.
Tagged: edge

Registration, processing, sealing of chipboard edges. Edging, edge, butt, finishing. fix, process, process, finish

How beautiful to seal the edge of chipboard? Finishing the end face of a polished plate, processing the edge of a laminated one. Chipboard edging techniques. (10+)

Finishing the end of the chipboard

Edging chipboard is necessary in the manufacture of furniture. Your attention materials for the manufacture of furniture with your own hands.

Chipboard edge structure

Particle board consists of sawdust mixed with glue and pressed. Moreover, the process of pressing and drying the glue is organized in such a way as to obtain dense surfaces and a rather rotten middle. This is done so that the chipboard springs and does not break. If the entire array of the sheet is made dense, then the sheet will prick from a very small deformation.

Usually we don't contact with internal structure chipboard sheet. It is fenced off from us with dense surfaces and a laminating coating (if the chipboard is laminated). But the butt reveals this charm to us. Our goal is to close it from the eyes of those who will admire our product.

In addition to aesthetic reasons, there are several more reasons why you need to close up the end of the chipboard, even in places that are not visible to the eye. Moisture. Chipboard is very sensitive to moisture, even a small amount absorbed from the air. Surfaces of laminated chipboard are impervious to moisture, the surface of polished chipboard is usually painted and also impervious to moisture. The edge should also not let moisture through. Mushrooms. Microorganisms and insects that decompose wood can penetrate into the slab through the end face. Harmful substances. Harmful substances contained in the glue and the sawdust themselves, from which the chipboard is made, do not penetrate through the laminated or painted surface, but enter the room through the end.

Options for edging, chipboard edge design

The options for processing the end face (edging) depend, first of all, on how the sheet itself will be finished. If the sheet is laminated, and it is planned to use its laminated surface white, that is, not to paint or cover with anything, then it is necessary to stick an edge tape on the visible edges that matches the type of laminated surface, and putty and seal the hidden edges with a construction bandage. If the sheet is laminated or sanded, and it is planned to paint it, then the sheet itself must be primed, its edges puttied, sealed with a construction bandage with a call on the plane of the sheet, putty bandage and painted.

End face of white-laminated chipboard

Visible end

When cutting such chipboard, you need to be very careful, use a sawing tool that leaves smooth edge. The laminating coating of chipboard during cutting is very fond of crumbling and chipping. If this happened, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. I do not know how to beautifully repair such a chip.

Why do chipboard edging and how to glue the edge with an iron

You will either have to put up with it, or saw off a new workpiece. Next, I recommend filling the edge. Many people glue the edge tape directly onto the sawn edge, but I tried to do this and gave up on it. The tape doesn't adhere well to the surface. I putty the edge with acrylic universal putty. After drying, the skin is medium-grained. I do this very carefully so as not to chip the laminate with chipboard. Then I stick the tape on the leveled surface.

I will dwell on the types of tapes - edges. Usually it is paper (in the generalized sense of the word ‘paper’) tape and plastic. paper tape Sold with hot melt already applied. It is glued with an iron. I will not dwell on this process in detail, there are enough materials on the network on this topic. You need to pay attention to the quality of the tape and glue. If subsequently the tape lags behind, then it can be glued with ordinary glue, this will not be noticeable. The plastic tape is glued on. The adhesive may already be applied to plastic tape and covered with a protective paper strip. This is a bad case. This glue sticks very badly. Do not buy plastic edging with adhesive already applied.

What glue to use? It is better to use the glue recommended by the edge manufacturer. However, note, it is worth making sure that there is a solvent for this glue, which allows you to remove excess glue and not damage plastic border and covering the chipboard sheet itself. Then you will be comfortable. According to the instructions for the glue, you will glue the edge, and remove the glue that has come out with a swab moistened with the indicated solvent. Difficulties can arise if the adhesive dissolves only with solvents that dissolve plastic. Excess glue cannot be removed with such a solvent, such glue is not suitable for us.

Making an invisible end

We spat him. Skin with medium grit. Carefully so as not to chip, as in the previous case. In principle, this can be stopped. However better with glue PVA glue a strip of construction bandage to the putty end. He (bandage) will prevent splitting and rash of putty. Usually the bandage is slightly wider than the edge. Glue the bandage so that the edge is in the middle of it. When the glue dries, with a sharp knife, carefully so as not to damage the laminated chipboard, remove the excess bandage.

Chipboard edge for painting

In this case, the cut can be carried out without much concern, since chips and defects can easily be corrected with putty. If we work with laminated chipboard, but still want to paint it, then we apply primer to the entire product. Suitable soil GF-021 or Otex from Tikkurila. If polished chipboard is used, then priming is not necessary, although it is desirable. We putty the butt. I use acrylic putty with fine filler. Skinning. We should get a smooth rectangular edge. Sometimes this requires several iterations of sanding - putty. When the edge suits us, it must be fixed, otherwise it will chip or crack. Putty - the material is not very durable and reliable. We glue the edge with a construction bandage 4-5 cm wider than the end. We use PVA glue. We bend the bandage so that it sticks to the end of the chipboard and goes to the upper and lower planes. See drawing. After the glue dries, we putty a construction bandage of finely dispersed acrylic putty. Usually one putty is used for all these works. We especially pay attention to the strip where the bandage ends and the chipboard itself begins. Here it is necessary to putty especially carefully so that after sanding and painting the transition is absolutely not noticeable. We dry the putty, we skin it with a fine sandpaper, we paint it.

Despite the monstrous appearance on the diagram on an enlarged scale, in reality, the presence of a bandage and putty on the end of the chipboard, if everything is done correctly, is completely invisible.

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To finish the end face of laminated chipboard, MDF or plywood, a special melamine tape is used, which is sold in furniture fittings stores.

Properties and features of the use of melamine glue

Melamine edging is a paper-based tape that is used to glue the end of a furniture board, such as chipboard and MDF, for example.

There are other materials for finishing the edge: PVC edge, PVC profile, natural veneer edge, etc. But melamine edging tape is still the most popular due to its ease of use.

Today we will look at how to edge furniture boards with this tape.

Recently, we talked about how and with what you can cut chipboard and plywood at home with a conventional circular saw. After cutting for further use, the cut must be trimmed with an edge tape, which you can easily pick up in size, color and texture in any specialized store.

Here is a neat cut of the plywood we are going to use for the shelves in the kitchen cabinets. But it has not yet been glued with an edge, so you can see all the layers of plywood on its cut.

And this is what the same end looks like, but after edging:

Like? And it's pretty easy to do so. And fast. And inexpensive.

We take the edge by the edge, leave a small margin.

An adhesive composition is applied to the inside of the edge tape, which is activated when heated. A simple iron is ideal for this.

Lightly iron the end with an iron, step back 2.5 cm and cut off from the roll.

Now thoroughly iron the edge with an iron. If the melamine edge has moved out, there is nothing to worry about. While hot, it peels off easily. Therefore, just peel it off, straighten it and iron it again.

When the edge lies flat, as it should, we take a smooth wooden block and, starting from the middle, firmly pressing it against the edge, draw it first in one direction to the end, then in the second. But you need to do this while the edge has not cooled down yet.

Before cutting off the excess edge, the sheet must be allowed to cool completely. The excess edge is easily cut off with a sharp retractable clerical knife.

The melamine edge is always slightly wider than the thickness of the plywood or chipboard sheet. Excess along the glued end can be cut off with the same knife. But there is also a special device.

That's what you see in the photo below.

It moves in both directions - forward and backward.

This completes the process of edging plywood or chipboard. Who would have thought that it would be so easy and not long!

It's no secret that chipboard ends can be processed different materials, such as pvc edge, melamine edge, and, of course, PVC edging.

Let's talk about trimming chipboard with pvc edging. Methods depend directly on the variety facing material- mortise edging with or without girth, or laid on edging.

PVC mortise edge with girth:

Pvc mortise edging without girth:

PVC overlay:

First of all, an important fact is the temperature in the room in which the work will take place, as well as at what temperature the profile was stored. Strong temperature fluctuations will affect the rigidity of the profile and the processing of the part. PVC edge is produced directly under a certain thickness chipboard. At the corners of the part, the edging is not cut; for facing adjacent ends, the corner is smoothly rounded. Perhaps the most commonly used mortise profile. The T-shaped edging has a spike (leg), for which a groove is made at the end of the chipboard, coinciding with it in width and depth. This groove is made with milling machine or manual router. It is optimal if the cutter leaves a groove 0.5 mm wide and a tooth height of up to 2.8 mm.

How to glue furniture edge

Before making a groove for the edge with a cutter, it is necessary to grind the edges of the chipboard board so that when the edge of the edge is stuffed, no chips are formed on the laminate. Kant gets hammered rubber mallet, the extra ends of the edging that go beyond the chipboard are cut off with a knife or secateurs.

Can show enough complicated process edging. However, after watching the video below, you will see the opposite.

Furniture makers are constantly improving production. like this unusual way trimming was invented by furniture manufacturers:

In this case, a conventional pneumatic hammer with a nozzle was used, which was fixedly fixed on a workbench. As you may have noticed, when using such a tool, the facing speed is much higher, which means higher productivity.

When using the overlay edging, you do not need any power tools. It is enough to have a knife and glue on hand. To increase adhesive adhesion on inner surface profiles are sometimes scratched. After that, glue is applied to the inner surface of the edging, often using liquid nails. Then the edging is sequentially put on chipboard end. The exposed adhesive is removed. When processing curved sections, where the edge forms a bend, the already pasted profile is fixed with adhesive tape. Unlike the mortise edge, which you quickly and easily stuffed onto the part, when processing the overlay profile, it will take some time for the glue to dry.

3134 05/08/2019 4 min.

Material such as edge tape is very often used in repairs. Its main role is to color the ends of furniture that is made of chipboard, but the scope does not end there. Thanks to it, it is possible to increase the strength characteristics, protect the tree from moisture and prevent the impregnation from evaporating. Also, the edge tape can be used for restoration work. Working with the material is very simple and easy, so even an inexperienced master can cope with the task.

For what purposes is it used

The presented material has the form of a strip, for the production of which polyethylene foam is used. On its surface there is a protective apron and a self-adhesive layer covered with thin film from polyethylene. The material can take the following dimensions: width - 100 or 150 mm, thickness - 8 or 10 mm. The product is sold in rolls of 25 or 50 m. But the sizes may be different, just presented are considered the most popular. The tape can be matched to the color of the plastic wall panel for the kitchen, which is described in more detail in the article.

The main role of the damper tape is to balance fluctuations in temperature indicators, to absorb excess sound.

How to choose a brick wall panel for the kitchen, so that everything matches and matches wall panel and table top and edge tape can be

Also, the material can act as a sealant and additional insulation of thermal energy from adjacent external walls when it is used for floor screed. If screed large area, then the tape is used to create expansion joint that protects against cracks. The material can be used once.

You can learn about how to choose by reading the article.

The main advantages of the material include the following:

is not exposed to moisture, so there is no possibility of the formation of pathogenic microorganisms;
has porosity, lightness, elasticity, strength, ease of installation;
not afraid of temperature fluctuations and the aggressive influence of alkalis;
structure and properties are not changed when exposed to sunlight and UV rays;
if there was a decrease in the continuous mechanical load, then it takes original form owing to what it can be used as a sealant of joints.

From this you can find out what chipboard size 16 mm.

On the video - edge tape for chipboard:

In most cases, edging tape is used around the perimeter of the room and as a separator when the surface area of the screed is large. If the width of the strip is 100 mm, then it finds its application for one-layer or two-layer screeds, which consist of a leveling and final layer.

With any repair, you need to know what is between them.

Bonding process

It is very simple to carry out such events, so even a non-professional can do them. All you need is to prepare the material and tune in to work. Then adhere to the following action plan, which will allow you to complete all the work quickly and efficiently:

Select edging tape. This material may have different thickness. It is necessary to stop at the one that is suitable not only for outward signs, but also the thickness of the part. As a rule, a product with a width value of 1.8 - 4.5 cm is purchased. It happens that the width of the tape slightly exceeds the width of the treated surface. This is acceptable, as long as the difference is not so significant. When choosing, it is important to know and understand what kind of material it is.
Clean the edge of the plywood from the existing dust. First, you should start from the end, as it will be the least noticeable. Tim images, you can mask the joints of the material. The surface to be treated must be free of severe irregularities. Some tape is able to hide, but significant depressions or bulges should be eliminated.
Check Ribbon Status. It should not contain joints that occur when connecting individual tapes into a roll. As a rule, the resulting joints are very difficult to recognize, but their presence can greatly spoil appearance products. After all, it will need to be covered with some kind of composition on top of the film. It is important to know how to choose and what is
Determine the length and width of the machined surface. It is necessary to cut the tape 0.3 cm more than the end and 2.5 longer. For these purposes, it is worth using a ballpoint hand ruler. To cut the material along the ruler, you can use a sharp knife. But at the same time, make sure that the blade is very sharp.
Now the iron is involved in the process. You have to wait until it warms up. Finish the rounded corners first. It is necessary to find the middle line of the butt, which is marked with a pencil along the entire length. Now determine the middle of the edge and attach it to the end of the part. Make sure all lines are aligned. Using a heated iron, carefully iron one part of the tape, and then the second. When ironing, you need to exert a lot of pressure on the iron, otherwise the glue will not melt, as a result, the tape will lie unevenly on the rounded corner and wrinkles will occur. Particular attention is paid to the edges. If they are not pressed enough, the tape will begin to move away from the part. While the adhesive is still hot, smooth out the coating using a round screwdriver.
After the glue has cooled, take the iron again and run it along the tape to the lower and upper edges of the surface of the part. In this case, the iron should be located at an angle, then the hitch line will have a small thickness. Press on the iron with force, but not sharply. When the adhesive has lagged behind, you can eliminate excess tape. To remove an unnecessary tape, you should use special tools, but it is quite possible to do the job using sharp knife. Before cutting off excess pieces, you need to pay attention to the direction of the fibers of the part. When they move down, then cutting should be done from right to left, when they move up - vice versa. When buying edging tape it is important to know

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