Is it possible to cover the foam with acrylic putty? How to close the mounting foam outside the window

There are cavities, for example, sockets, filled with mounting foam. How to plaster them? What mixtures stick to mounting foam?

Very often, foam is used to seal joints when installing new plastic windows. In this case, the termination procedure here is somewhat different. The foam is also cut off with a knife. Next, the joint filled with foam is sealed with a wide hydro and steam insulating tape, with adhesive and sticky layer. This tape has a layer of foil, so it also creates a heat-insulating screen. Now the entire joint, on both sides of the window, is covered with a primer from the sprayer, which contains an antifungal compound that prevents the formation of mold. And now, when the primer has dried up, you can safely apply the plaster with a rubber trowel. good producers, this is Ceresit, Knauf Rotband and Vetonite.

In general, it is desirable to seal the foam at the joint. To do this, apply a two-component sealant with a rubber spatula. We prepare the working mixture of the sealant, mixing the sealant and hardener with a drill (with a nozzle), and apply to the foam joint with a rubber spatula. Therefore, for external seams, and for seams in rooms with high humidity, better fit this method.

How and how to putty mounting foam in 3 stages

In other cases, we plaster, also using rubber spatula comfortable width.

For plastering surfaces treated with mounting foam, you first need to cut off the protruding foam, then make small, even one millimeter, cuts along the entire extension of the seam ...

You can cover up the plaster as in all other cases, there is nothing special ...

Mounting foam lends itself well to plastering, especially if you take into account some of the nuances.

Before you start plastering areas filled with mounting foam, you need to cut off the excess of already dry material, while slightly deepening the surface of the foam in relation to the sides. Try to level the surface of the hardened foam.

It is possible to plaster mounting foam with almost any composition (I will offer as an option Rotband, Forward KR +, etc.), it is only worth using frost-resistant for outdoor work.

The sequence of work is approximately as follows:

dilute the dry mixture according to the instructions clearly.
apply with a spatula on the repaired surface (area with foam) with the transition to the main wall material and level. It should be noted that the plaster thinly applied to the foam will definitely crack when dried, therefore the layer must be at least 3 mm.
after complete drying, we rub the surface with a mesh to get a smooth, even surface.

Yes, no problem, it can be plastered with anything, I don’t understand your doubt, the foam is cut flush with a knife, under the upper smooth crust it is quite porous and any plaster will stick to it, even a simple cement mortar, but if you doubt and have a fear that in that place it will crack or break, then it will come to the rescue old proven way - alabaster, we clear deeper, quickly knead and quickly cover / plaster. It dries and hardens very quickly, then just with a spatula you can clean off the excess and uneven and putty with finishing putty, it will turn out cheap, angry and strong!

It is advisable to reinforce with a sickle.

Rules for working with polyurethane foam - all questions and answers

Macroflex cement foam review

We use Macroflex building foam so often that its name has already become a household name. The reason for this is high quality assembly compositions at a reasonable cost, comfortable shape release, designed for use in private construction, and unique properties. Let's try to evaluate the validity of the last point using the example of a new composition from Macroflex.

Characteristics and properties

According to numerous reviews, foam-cement works optimally at an ambient temperature of about +21..+25 °С, however, it can be used in the range of -5..+35 °С. Compared to standard mounting mixes, this means a little more off-season work.

The main characteristics declared by the manufacturer.

(short-term up to +110 °С)

The use of mounting foam with the addition of cement shows itself perfectly when gluing wooden structures, materials from woodworking products and some polymers:

tensile adhesion with wood in Macroflex reaches 2 MPa, as in cement with granite;
with ABS plastic and PVC - about 1 MPa (the same adhesion is observed in cement mortar with concrete surfaces).

Macroflex mounting foam has an average adhesion strength (0.3 MPa) with concrete, glass, ceramics - that is, with materials whose structure is not characterized by high porosity. Approximately the same strongly the composition binds to OSB boards. FROM bituminous coatings and foam plastic adhesion in Macroflex is slightly worse than 0.2-0.25 MPa. This is the level of tile adhesive.

The least reliable Macroflex is on galvanized, drywall, and mineral wool- 0.10-0.15 MPa with a layer of 8 mm. So with these materials it can only be used in unloaded structures.

Since the scope of Macroflex includes outdoor work, the possibility of normal use of foam-cement when negative temperatures is a very useful feature.

Pros and cons of foam

The main advantage of any mounting mixture packed in a tube is the convenience of its use. Macroflex foam is easy to apply with a gun, which allows you to control the amount of extruded composition, avoiding overspending. The cementing adhesive at the place of application reliably isolates the seams from moisture and significantly reduces heat loss.

The disadvantages of any polyurethane foam usually include high shrinkage. But the cement foam initially has a small amount of expansion, so it “sits down” not so noticeably. But from high density another minus follows - a large consumption of the composition.

The cost of cement glue does not differ from the prices of ordinary polyurethane foam - 370-390 rubles per 850 ml.

Construction adhesive foam brand Makroflex allows in some cases to abandon heavy cement mortars when performing repair and construction operations:

The erection of light lintels and the restoration of block masonry.
Warming and finishing of surfaces with slab materials.
Installation of window sills, frames, stair elements.
Elimination of gaps, strengthening and isolation of seams.

Glue consumption depends on the building material with which you have to work. According to reviews, it takes one standard cylinder of 850 ml to complete 10 m 2 of brick-thick masonry. The same amount is required for gluing gypsum panels with total area up to 12 m 2.

Application building mix allowed for any wet materials except for concrete.

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Application for different types works

Brick or block masonry.

The composition is applied to the surfaces of each block to be glued in two continuous strips with an indent from the edge of 30-50 mm.

If the masonry is half a brick wide, you can get by with one strip of Macroflex cement in the center. Brickwork with the help of foam, it is carried out only on a leveled surface so that there are no vertical distortions in the rows. If this is not the case, you need to lay a regular one on the foundation. building mixture thick and set the correct level of the first row.

Macroflex professional foam, although it belongs to construction compounds, for masonry responsible bearing walls no good. Its main purpose is to device internal partitions and installation of small architectural structures.

On a relatively flat surface, drywall is faster and easier to glue than to assemble a complex crate under it. The glue is applied to the wrong side of the GKL over the entire area in strips - a step of 150 mm, an indent from the edge of 50 mm.

Mounting foam and plaster - how to make them friends?

You need to do everything at a pace, because after 3 minutes, if you do not put the sheet in place, the surface of the cement foam will stop sticking.

Once Macroflex is applied, the sheet is applied to the prepared wall surface and pressed lightly. It is required to hold the panel for 5 minutes, after which you can move on to the next one. Grouting and others Finishing work can be done 2 hours after gluing.

Installation of window sills, steps.

Squeeze out 2-3 strips of Macroflex along the edge onto the fixed part of the window sill. Press against the end surface of the wall, loading it along the entire length for an hour. Make sure that the window sill is clearly planted in level. By the same principle, the installation of individual steps of prefabricated flights of stairs from any materials.

How to cover up mounting foam is a question that has recently arisen quite often. Various external factors lead to a deterioration in the condition of the mounting foam, which in some cases may not be able to cope with its intended purpose. Therefore, we will consider proven methods that will allow you to cover up mounting foam without special costs time and effort, but guarantee the quality and reliability that modern metal plastic windows.

How to cover mounting foam- reliable protection windowRehau for the long term

Mounting foam as a result of exposure to moisture, light and other factors after some time loses its qualities. Including, the foam will dry out, gradually gaining moisture. There should also be a violation of the features of thermal insulation. Therefore, experts recommend thinking ahead of time about slopes and foam incorporation with outer side and under the windowsill. Slopes in windows are of great importance - after all, they allow you to hide the presence of assembly seams, contributing to the long-term operation of the entire structure as a whole. First of all, one must define optimal material for slopes.

Dry mixes are the easiest option. The slope can be done using standard plaster. But for this option, the preparation of the wall for the material is initially required. In the presence of large gaps, a layer of mortar is required to be applied to the wall, using a special mixture. Among necessary funds of note are outdoor putty, gloves, a small knife, a trowel, water, and a mortar container.

How to cover mounting foam- a proven set of actions

Cut off the excess dried foam from the outside of the joints. When used for sealing putty, it is recommended to cut the mounting foam deep into a few millimeters for a thicker layer of sealant on the outside. A smooth surface of the cured foam is recommended.

Next, putting on gloves, we prepare a sealant solution for outdoor work. To do this, we do not need a lot of solution, so it would be better to mix less, then you can add as needed. Instructions for preparing the solution are contained on the packaging of the material.

The mass of putty is applied with a knife or a trowel - we choose taking into account personal preferences and the place of embedding, we level the surface. After drying a very thin layer of putty, cracks may occur. To avoid such a nuisance, it is better to apply a solution layer of several millimeters - taking into account appearance the buildings.

In this way, it is possible to protect the mounting foam from exposure to the rays of the sun, which can lead to a destructive effect. Thanks to this, it is also possible to protect the foam from moisture, which, when penetrated from the outside, leads to the destruction of slopes and other elements of the connection. The aesthetics of the building are also improved.

The best effect of a white slope is achieved with the use of a water-based mixture for plastering. Work is carried out using special tools. Escarpment from plaster mixtures will become excellent choice for the outside.

Slopes from plastic panel

It is much easier to make a slope from a plastic panel. From large panel according to the dimensions of the slope, pieces should be cut for 3 sides of the window. A special plastic rail secures the panel to the window.

Side panels are installed at an angle of 90-110 degrees relative to the window. Each panel is fixed to the wall, with mounting foam filling the gap between the old slope and the window - for better insulation. After the foam dries, we get rid of the dried residues. We close the resulting gap between the panel and the wall by tightly adjoining the F-shaped rail.

Plasterboard slopes are performed like plastic ones. Installation can be carried out in two ways - installation of prepared panels on a profile or gluing on glue. Thermal insulation is provided by insulated mineral wool. After installation, the plasterboard panels are treated with a primer. Next comes the painting. To ensure a completely even corner, a painting steel corner is glued to the drywall corner using putty.

All this proves the possibility of using various methods when finishing slopes of PVC windows. Today, plastic windows remain the preferred option, which become a guarantee excellent properties hydro and thermal insulation, durability and reliability. The use of drywall slopes contributes to the preservation of heat and resistance to moisture. But the plastering of slopes as a finish is outdated, given the rather weak protective properties, which is not enough for modern windows PVC.

How to cover mounting foam- help of professionals, confidence in every decision

Still, work with window and door structures requires some preparation and experience for the reliability and quality of the result. Therefore, for many, it is preferable to turn to professionals who can guarantee the declared result according to affordable prices- the company's website always provides data on services, detailed information can be clarified with managers. We cover the mounting seams and perform related work according to modern quality standards.

To find out how to protect the mounting foam, the first step is to take into account the conditions of its operation. The popularity of polyurethane sealants has spread not only to facade work, but also on interior decoration premises - respectively, and the methods of protecting the cured foam are quite diverse

Polyurethane foam - material properties and its varieties

The consumer characteristics of mounting foam for sealing extended linear gaps make one sincerely perplexed - how they managed without it before, before the era of advanced chemistry. The basic properties of foam sealants include:

Magnificent adhesion, and selective character. with basic building materials(concrete, brick, cinder blocks, cement, plaster, etc.) mounting foam forms the strongest, virtually one-piece connection. But to moisture, ice, polyethylene, silicone and oiled surfaces, it sticks much worse. This eliminates accidental sealing of foreign elements;
Volumetric primary expansion at the "exit" of the composition from the cylinder, it reaches 50 times the value, for the most modest manufacturers - at least 20 times. The process takes only a few minutes and proceeds quickly, with a characteristic hiss and rapid filling of sealed openings. Just one sprayer is enough to fill deep and long joints. This is very convenient when working at heights, in hard-to-reach places, when plastering slopes with your own hands, when ventilation pipes, when repairing balconies, etc.
Solid secondary seal. It is not enough to know how to seal the mounting foam - it is important to consider that it changes in volume for several more hours after application. For cheap manufacturers, this change is shrinkage in nature - as a result, gaps may form between door jamb and dry foam. High-quality sealants do not differ in the formation of "slotted gaps" after solidification;
Viscosity and total installation volume of polyurethane sealants are highly dependent on application conditions - temperature and humidity, wind, etc. There are "all-weather" modifications of foam compositions, but they are also optimally used at air temperatures from +5 ˚C to +35 ˚C, moderate humidity and in calm weather.

In addition to direct installation tasks - that is, sealing gaps, filling seams, insulating dissimilar joints, etc. - the hardened foam has good thermal insulation and acoustic protection.

When installing window frames from wood and plastic, pay attention to the flammability class of the sealing mixtures used, it can be fire-fighting, combustible and self-extinguishing.

With the labeling of the combustible properties of dried polyurethane foam, some manufacturers show a certain cunning. They write on packages, cans and adapter tubes only the digital name of the flammability class, without verbal explanation. The average consumer may not be aware that:

B3 is a combustible compound that ignites even better than a wooden frame;
B2 is a self-extinguishing foam, and it can smolder for quite some time;
B1 - non-combustible mounting compound. Of course, the non-combustible property will affect the price of the sealant towards a solid increase.

The greatest harm to polyurethane sealants is caused by direct sunlight. The influence of atmospheric precipitation and mechanical vibrations also has a bad effect on the durability of the treated joint, but to a lesser extent. Before sealing the mounting foam, you need to make sure that the additional protection is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.

How to seal mounting foam - preliminary preparation

Some repair tips seem obvious, but the truth does not fade from repetition. Before puttying the mounting foam or tinting it upper layer, wait for the composition to dry completely. Make sure that it tightly fills the entire installation opening, that there are no gaps and delaminations, unevenness, etc. Deep gaps and cracks should not be protected from the sun, but re-sealed. Most polyurethane sealants turn yellow or yellowish when dry, this is normal.

First you need to decide how to protect the mounting foam - putty, special tape or paint. The fact is that under the putty or other "volumetric protection" it will be necessary to cut a recess in the sealant, it is difficult to get used to it. Paints, adhesive tape and varnishes are applied to a flat surface;
With a sharp knife, cut off any excess material that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the slope or jamb. It is most convenient to take a special shoe knife with an oblique triangular blade - then it is easier to maintain an even cut line. And do not rush to quickly cut off the influxes. This is dangerous with an accidental cut of the hands, feet and damage to the hardened foam or a brand new frame;
After the cutting stage, a grinding procedure begins (it is not needed when puttying the seams). The dried foam is cleaned with fine sandpaper. You will have to act manually and carefully - grinding mechanical devices can damage the frame, slope, doorjamb etc.

How to protect mounting foam - basic repair methods

Under influence sun rays any mounting foam decomposes. Initially, it looks like a darkening of the material, after which it becomes brittle and crumbles from the cracks, like leaves in the wind. More precisely, even the wind is not required to destroy the sealant scorched by the sun. The process of "ultraviolet destruction" of mounting foam takes from 1 to several years - depending on the thickness of the layer, the angle of incidence of its rays, the quality of the foam itself and the thoroughness of its application, etc.

Of course, even the maximum four years is an unacceptably short period for overhaul. And the replacement of windows, doors, ventilation, etc. must be no less durable than the installation shower tray- with your own hands it makes sense to create comfort for decades to come. When the preparation of the outer layer of foam is completed, we proceed to its processing using one of the selected methods:

Putty. How to cover the mounting foam on the windows? First, modified finishing plaster- with the addition of frost-resistant additives. Secondly, special liquid plastic. Thirdly, ordinary window putty with the addition liquid glass. All compositions are applied from the bottom up with neat strokes using a conventional spatula, the excess is wiped off with a sponge;
Special mounting tape. The fastest and cheapest method of protection - and it is also the most questionable in terms of aesthetics. Even if you pick adhesive tape to match the color of the frames, it will not work to paint over it from above (coloring compositions will lead to peeling of the adhesive tape). If you are ready to glue all the joints with new tape every few months, you can try a quick decoration;
Paints and varnishes. Best to choose acrylate coloring composition , it has good adhesion with polyurethane foam. The paint is applied with a thin brush, moving from the bottom up to the corner of the frame or jamb. If you want a particularly strong protection of the foaming sealant, you can combine putty and acrylate painting - then the service life of the mounting foam will be comparable to the durability of the whole house.

Today it is already difficult to imagine construction or repair work where mounting foam is not used. With its help, they solve a lot of problems, because the foam acts as a heat insulator, sealant, or is used as a fixative.

Mounting foam is highly durable and may not change its useful characteristics over the years, but subject to certain conditions- no ultraviolet rays. If you do not hide the foam from ultraviolet radiation, it quickly deteriorates, as a result, it loses its useful properties.

There are a lot of ways to hide the mounting foam so that it does not damage it and does not violate the aesthetics. Common - putty.

This method is simple. One thing, BUT - these materials do not fit together, so plaster is applicable in 2 cases:

If the head is Fire safety. Then apply a layer of plaster, which is equal to 80 mm. At the same time, use putty only with fire-fighting foam, which resists the action of fire for 120 to 240 minutes. Although the fire inspectorate will still have claims;
AT decorative purposes. In this case, putty is not so much protection, but as an aesthetic coating. In this way, work is completed, making them aesthetic and pleasing to the eye.

Lack of protection

If they create additional protection from mechanical impact, use drywall sheets. The seams between them are plastered, the foam is hidden. Then they are not afraid of damage and shedding of plaster.

Why foam protection

Foam in the best way fills the space in the gap or hole, seam. If you do not think about the protection of the foam, then its service life will not exceed 5 years. In the process of such improper operation, the foam is constantly destroyed, as a result - liquid, moisture penetrate inside the gap and bring destruction with them. And in the worst case, the gap inside the wall will become a source of mold and mildew.

An easy way to protect is to use ordinary sealing tape. But if you protect the foam on the street, the tape is unlikely to serve as a reliable protection for a long time.

Another way is to use special mixtures (primers) that provide moisture-resistant protection. They have their drawbacks - in most cases they do not protect against ultraviolet rays - main problem mounting foam, and invariably lead to its destruction.

Other options are also used - sealants, putties, plastic, or acrylic paint. But if the excess foam is cut, it will not provide sufficient protection.

Protective foam layer prevents ultraviolet rays, creates steam and water tightness.

spoiled foam

That's why the best solution in this case putty or plaster. Moreover, its specific type and type are not important. This method is affordable and simple - even a person without special knowledge or skills in the construction industry can cope with such work.

Puttying process

Wait for the full expansion and drying of the foam. When ready for use, it is wavy and often excess foam appears at unusual points and positions. It will not work to hide such fragments with plaster, so they are first removed. For these purposes, the excess foam is cut off with a slight departure deep into the wall in order to use putty.

The mounting foam is cut off no earlier than 12 hours after application, but it is better to make sure of the drying time. They are listed on the bottle.

Before applying the plaster, glue the usual masking tape around future work areas to protect a clean, unrefined surface from staining. Remove the tape after the plaster is completely applied and dries.

Foam protection

To hide the mounting foam, any of the existing species putties. However, the preparation process and the proportion of dilution of the mixture depend on the choice of the manufacturer and the specific model.

Foam puttying

After kneading is done, the mixture has acquired a thick homogeneous consistency, it is applied to the mounting foam.

They make a small, protruding excess, which is then eliminated with a spatula, but you should not go too deep, otherwise you will get a recess, a depression that will have to be eliminated again.

The excess, when it dries, is simply washed with sandpaper or special building mesh, which is used for finishing work with plaster.

Start washing after the putty is completely dry. In this case, the chances of causing damage are minimal, moreover, to apply force to erase in order to get the desired result faster.

Other ways to hide foam

Using putty is not always relevant, sometimes it's an extra waste of money. You can hide the mounting foam in other ways. Some of them are more expensive or cheaper than plaster, but they are not suitable in all cases.

A simple and cheap method is cutting the foam and then mashing it. This method is relevant for cases where foam with a dense structure is used. This cut has an aesthetic appearance.

To make the cut neat, they do not use a knife, but a hacksaw for foam plastic - this blade does not tear the material. Further, after trimming the foam, it is polished. To do this, use large sandpaper.

Once sanding is complete, paint begins. To do this, take the usual paint. It is better to prefer white or other light shades. Apply the paint in several layers, then it will become homogeneous flat surface, which will give sufficient protection to the mounting foam from ultraviolet rays.

foam painting

Other methods include the use of any improvised materials - boards, or metal sheets, even roofing material will do.

If the foam is in the shade, and the question of aesthetics is not at all, then it is left in this form. Despite the fact that moisture and air have free access to the dried foam, they will not damage it, moreover, it will retain its properties. If there is no certainty that the shadow is constant, hide the foam immediately. In the future, they simply forget about such a need, and when the issue becomes acute, it turns out that the foam needs to be applied again, spending time and money on repeating the work already done.

What are the nuances

When preparing the solution for its further application to the foam, you should be careful to stir the mixture thoroughly to eliminate the appearance of lumps that will spoil all the aesthetics.

Better use an electrician

Depending on what functions the plaster layer performs, prepare a place for it. If it is protective, then remove the excess foam with a recess of a few centimeters in order to plaster with high quality. If the layer is decorative, then a large recess is not needed, a depth of no more than a centimeter is enough.

If you need to hide the foam on the street, take into account that even the impossibility of getting moisture on the protective layer does not remove the chance of damage by other atmospheric influence factors. hard frost also damages the plaster. You should take care of this problem in advance and purchase a frost-resistant mixture. If the work is to be done indoors, this is not necessary.

Regardless of which recess is prepared for the plaster, the holes are plastered so that the mixture layer is at least 5 mm. If you use a smaller layer, this will lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface of the plaster and its subsequent destruction.

If the layer exceeds this value, then plaster is applied in several stages, waiting for the initial drying of the previous layer.

Grouting is not carried out after the final drying of the plaster, it is enough to give time for high-quality hardening.

Quality protection

When working with plaster, do not forget about the use of gloves and goggles. The dried mixture on the skin is difficult to wash off, and getting into the eye leads to serious consequences.

Do not forget to clean the tools after the work is done. If the mixture has not frozen, do it simply by washing them in water; if it has dried, it will have to be cleaned mechanically.

In contact with

After installing windows and doors, owners and master finishers often ask themselves the question - how to close up the mounting foam? You can cover it up using putty, sealant, paint and other materials. It is important to do this correctly, using the appropriate technique, which we will describe below.

Polyurethane foam - a convenient material

Today, polyurethane foam is used in many construction work. It is a polyurethane foam two- or one-component sealant, which is available in a special aerosol can. It is applied in two cases:

for thermal insulation;
seam sealing.

Suitable for materials such as wood, glass, metal, concrete. The main component of the foam is polyurethane, which was first created by Bayer in 1947. In the 1970s and 1980s, the first spray cans began to be produced and used for finishing work.

At the same time, in addition to polyurethane, polyisocyanate and some catalysts were added to the composition. The first country to implement given material was Switzerland. Later, other countries began to use the foam. Today it is used in Europe, Asia, USA, Russia. This widespread use is due to the unique properties of the material. Foam easily penetrates into any gap and seam, fills the space and quickly hardens. Thus, this area is perfectly protected from various adverse events.

Why do you need foam protection?

As already mentioned, the composition perfectly fills the space inside the gap and the seam. But at the same time, she also needs protection. The fact is that the foam is destroyed under the influence of UV rays and moisture. If you do not protect her, then the general service life such a seam will be no more than 5 years. That is why, after application, it is additionally covered with special compounds.

But the question arises - how to protect the mounting foam and what kind of means is better to use? For these purposes, sealant, putty, liquid plastic, acrylic paint, can be used. In this case, the coating must be water-proof and vapor-tight. That is, to provide proper ventilation and protect against water penetration. Therefore, when choosing compounds, pay attention to their properties (usually they are described on the packaging). Also, some consumers use a special sealing tape for protection. It is quickly glued to the desired area and is suitable for both old and new structures.

Plaster protection and what you need to know for this?

So, the question of how to close up the mounting foam has already been answered. But here's how to do it? Consider an example of finishing using plaster. Processing begins with the removal of excess material. This is necessary in order to level the base. In the case when plaster or putty is supposed to be used for protection, it is better to further deepen the surface by a couple of millimeters.

The second task that arises before the master finishers is the question - how to putty the mounting foam? What kind of putty and plaster to choose? It's better to use it frost-resistant composition, which is sold in construction supermarkets. A good brand is Rotband. The composition is sold in dry form and is prepared immediately before use. And if the question is settled, then you can proceed to the direct preparation of the mixture. The recipe is always written on the package.

The solution is poured into water and thoroughly stirred so that there are no lumps. If the composition is too thick, it is better to add a little water.

Putty is applied with a spatula or trowel. The layer must be at least 4 mm. Because if you put too much thin layer, soon it may crack (usually this happens when it dries). At the next stage, the coating is given some time to harden, but do not wait for complete drying. Then the surface is rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper or construction mesh.

Please note that you can easily perform all the described work yourself. It is only important to follow the instructions. Therefore, the question of how to cover up the mounting foam should no longer arise. Also, when performing work, it is necessary to wear gloves to protect the skin of the hands. All tools are washed after use warm water. The rest of the composition is removed in a dark place.

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