The simplest bunk bed. Bunk bed with your own hands. Types of bunk beds

Not always the dimensions of the apartment allow you to place sleeping places so that there is free space. Cluttering the room with folding beds is not the best solution. A do-it-yourself bunk bed will help to cope with the problem and save space.

Pros and cons of bunk beds

Purchased products are expensive, and besides, they do not take into account the features of the room where they will be installed. Therefore, it makes sense to make a two-tier structure on your own, combine it with a study table or a cabinet for storing things, provide drawers for lower tier.

Simplest suburban option able to do any House master, more or less owning the tool and having the skills of working with wood. In a city apartment, such beds are most often installed in a nursery. This frees up space for games and activities.

The disadvantage of the design is an increased risk of injury. If you decide to install such a structure in the nursery, take care of a reliable side on the second tier of the bed so that the child is safe. In any case, you can’t put a baby up to three years old to sleep on the second tier.

Baby bunk beds

The size of the child's bed is determined standard dimensions mattresses. As a rule, it is 160x70 cm. There are transforming beds that provide for lengthening the bed as the child grows.

You can make various options for a children's bed yourself:

  • classic, for two children;
  • a variation of the first option - for three or four children;
  • a loft bed for one child, where the sleeping place is located at the top, and there is a place for classes below;
  • corner, when the upper and lower beds are located at an angle of 90 degrees to each other;
  • with a retractable lower tier;
  • folding.

Unusual options for bunk designs for a child in the photo

Classic bunk bed suitable for two children Corner bunk bed with space for activities helps save space in the children's room Bed-transformer with pull-out lower berth - perfect solution for a small apartment bunk bed with a slide and a whole range of shells will appeal to little athletes Bunk bed-transformer with a pull-out bed and a table provides the child with a full-fledged place for sleep and activities Loft bed suitable for one child Bunk bed in the form of a house - a great place to sleep and play Combined bunk bed decorated in nautical style, like a young dreamer A loft bed with a sofa on the lower tier provides a place to sleep for mom and baby The original bunk bed with curved supports and a wide lower bunk will fit into any interior. The bunk bed, designed in the form of cars, will appeal to boys Folding bunk bed - great option saving space for games and activities bunk bed with drawers, lockers and shelves allows you to place a lot of necessary children's things wooden bed with different width berths designed for sleeping children of different ages

Two-tier designs for adults

Bunk beds for adults are most often installed in barracks, camp sites and other places where it is necessary to place a large number of people in a small area. Homemade design - convenient option for giving.

Do-it-yourself bunk bed for giving - video

AT one-room apartment a combined model is useful: the top place is for children, the bottom is for adults. But there are many options for loft beds, they are suitable for adults and children. If necessary, you can even install a two-tier structure with two double beds. It will come in handy when accommodating guests.

Variants of double beds for adults and combined models - gallery

If the ceiling height allows, the bed can be made three-tier Combined variant a bunk bed with a narrower top seat allows you to accommodate an adult and a child Bunk bed with two double beds - great for a large family Metal double bed increased strength A folding loft bed saves space and does not interfere during the day A sofa can be built into the loft bed for more convenience. The built-in loft bed is completely invisible and very comfortable. Metal folding bunk bed - a stylish and comfortable interior detail original version combination bed for adults and two children with the style of a tree house will appeal to the whole family A classic wooden bunk bed for adults and a child will appeal to all the inhabitants of the house corner option loft bed with sofa helps to accommodate many guests

What materials will be needed for work

The most popular material for the manufacture of such beds is wood. But other options are also possible:

  • plywood;
  • chipboard;
  • metal;
  • polypropylene pipes.

For inexperienced craftsmen, the simplest material is chipboard or plywood. They are easily sawn with a jigsaw, do not require special equipment for processing. The relative cheapness of the material also plays an important role.

Advice. When making a bunk bed from chipboard, make the sidewalls from a single sheet. Any cutouts on them weaken the structure.

Making beds from different materials has its own characteristics.

  1. Experience is required to work with wood. But the product is durable and environmentally friendly, which is important in the manufacture of furniture for children. In addition, wood is much lighter than chipboard.
  2. Metal will require equipment for welding, cutting and work skills. Beds made of it are the most durable, withstand the maximum load.
  3. Craftsmen make furniture even from polypropylene pipes. Maybe such products are not distinguished by their special beauty and sophistication, but they are very easy to manufacture. You only need the pipes themselves, a set of fittings, a hacksaw and a drawing.

Two-level beds from different materials - gallery

Wooden beds - the most environmentally friendly Plywood decor is suitable for decorating a children's bed For the manufacture of folding bed plywood is the best option Chipboard is most often used for the production of bunk beds. From metal profile pipes you can make a bunk bed of original design

Bed ladder designs suitable for different ages

How convenient and safe it will be to climb to the second floor of the bed depends on the stairs. She may be:

  • vertical - two planks or bars connected by crossbars made of wood or pipes. Sometimes attached, but most often built-in;
  • marching. This is an ordinary staircase with steps. It is made from a board with a section of 30x80 mm, takes more space than vertical, but much more convenient. The width of the steps should be at least 350 mm, the distance between the rungs 200-300 mm. The angle of inclination is about 70 degrees;
  • with built-in drawers or cabinets. Since the space under the stairs remains free, it is used as a storage for things, by building drawers on the side or steps, or equipping a wardrobe.

Which ladder to choose? It all depends on who will use it. Both of the first options are suitable for adults and teenagers, marching is more convenient for young children, it is less likely to fall from it.

For children, it is better to make a staircase with a railing and correctly calculate the step width so that it is convenient and safe for the child to climb to the second floor.

The first stage is the creation of a drawing

Before you start making a bed, you need to make a drawing. With it, you will calculate how much material and fasteners you will need. Special design knowledge is not required for this, but some points must be taken into account.

  1. Leave the distance between the upper and lower tiers such that an adult can sit on the lower bed without risking hitting his head on the upper one.
  2. Leave enough space between the top bunk and the ceiling for the child to feel comfortable while sleeping. Warm air rises. If there is not enough space, it will be difficult for the child to breathe.
  3. When designing a bed, consider standard sizes mattresses.

How to create a bed plan on a computer - video

If self-creation of a drawing is too difficult process for you, use ready-made schemes.

Drawings of various models of bunk beds - gallery

You can make a classic bunk bed with a built-in ladder yourself using the drawing A bunk bed made of chipboard with a wardrobe and drawers, made according to the scheme, will appeal to young children According to the drawing, drawers can be built into the ladder of the children's bed A study table is conveniently built into the loft bed

Making a wooden bed: step by step instructions

To make a corner bunk bed, you will need:

  • 4 things. wooden beams 50x100x3000 mm;
  • 4 things. wooden beams 50x100x2400 mm;
  • 2 pcs. boards 20x100x3000 mm;
  • 1 PC. - 20x150x3000 mm;
  • 1 PC. - 20x200x3000 mm;
  • 2 sheets of plywood 12x1200x2400 mm;
  • screws 75 mm long;
  • drywall screws 40 mm long;
  • 8 pcs. screws in a hexagonal head 6x150 mm with washers;
  • 10 pieces. bolts 6x75 mm with nuts and washers;
  • 2 pcs. bolts 6x150 mm with nuts and washers;
  • wood putty;
  • sandpaper;
  • screwdriver;
  • circular saw or hacksaw;
  • jigsaw;
  • milling cutter;
  • drill;
  • roulette;
  • level.

When all the materials and tools are collected, get to work.

  1. Cut the material according to the drawing.
  2. Please note that the size of the frame under the bed must exceed the dimensions of the mattress by 80 mm in length and 100 mm in width. On the side where the ladder will be attached, add another 45 mm.
  3. At all external edges, cut off the chamfer, you can use a hand plow. Sand and sand the details.
  4. On all the details, make markings for fasteners.
  5. From the cut beams, assemble the upper and lower frames, fasten with screws. Make at least one partition to increase the rigidity of the structure.
  6. Screw a board 20x150 to the two adjacent sides of the frame with self-tapping screws, to the other 20x200. They will serve as borders.
  7. For the corner leg support, connect the 50x100 bars along the length at an angle of 90 degrees so that the end is L- figurative form.
  8. Drill a hole in the support at the attachment point of the upper tier. Do the same in a frame with a side of 200 mm. Drill them out wider so you can hide the screw head and nut and washer.
  9. Attach the frame to the stand with screws.
  10. Now attach the structure to the walls. If the wall is plasterboard, the fasteners must pass through rack profiles otherwise it will pop up. Mark the mounting points by leaning the frame against the wall. Align it with a level.
  11. Drill through holes in the frame and wall through the profiles and screw in the hex screws to fix them in the profiles.
  12. If the wall is brick, drill holes with a puncher, and fasten the frame with anchors.
  13. Do the same with the second frame.
  14. Assemble the top bunk railing, screw it to the frame and wall.
  15. From two bars and crossbars, assemble a ladder, attach it to the supporting frames.
  16. The ladder can be either attached or built-in. For the built-in, make cutouts, they will come in handy when attaching the frames.
  17. Screw the plywood on which the mattress will be laid to the upper and lower frames. Make the base for it from the rails.
  18. Fasten the bars to the bar of the supporting frame, lay the slats between them. For strength, it is better to nail them to the bar.
  19. Now it remains only to putty the heads of the screws, clean sandpaper and cover the bed with varnish or paint.

Advice. If you decide to make a bed from chipboard, assemble it on confirmants - euro screws. They hold chipboard much stronger. The slats under the mattress and the rungs of the stairs should be made of wood. It is not recommended to make boxes on the upper tier due to the large chipboard weight, this will make the structure heavier.

How to make a solid wood bunk bed - video

We make two tiers from one

If you already have a single bunk bed, you can use it to build a bunk bed. In this case, the bed frame will serve as the base. The top frame is made to measure. In order for the structure to be stable, withstand many kilograms and not collapse, the fastening of the frame to the supports must be strong.

In the same way, a bed with a sofa on the first tier is assembled. Only in this case, a frame is made, the dimensions of which must correspond to the dimensions of the lower part of the sofa.

How to assemble a retractable model

A pull-out bed is the most convenient and safe for a child's room. The height of the upper bed is slightly more than 70 cm. During the day, the lower tier slides in, there is additional space for games and activities for children. At night you will have an extra bed. Distinctive feature models - beds are not interconnected, they can be used separately.

This bed is easy to make. All parts are made of furniture board chipboard or chipboard.

  1. Make the base of the bed from a solid 18 mm thick board, which is attached to the sides with a minifix and two dowels on each side.
  2. Additionally, strengthen the structure with a metal corner in the head and legs from the bottom of the bottom, on the sides - from above.
  3. Also attach the sides to the bottom for four minifixes and three dowels each. Connect them to the side walls with a bolt with a wide cap.
  4. Attach four wheels to the side walls of the bottom. Saw radius grooves under them, place metal plates on top.

A pull-out bed has many advantages: space saving, ease of manufacture and additional space for sleeping. The only drawback of the design is the lack of a box for storing bedding.

The most durable option is a metal pipe bed

The design of the metal bed is simple, but it is very difficult to assemble it. This requires the skills of welding, metal cutting and appropriate equipment.

Manufacturing stages.

  1. To assemble the frame, use a metal corner 45x50 mm. Cut out sections at the ends of the pipes and connect them to the sides for a tight fit. Use a 65x32 mm channel.
  2. Weld the frame, carefully making sure that the corners are straight and the parts are parallel.
  3. Racks cut from a thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Weld frames to them, process the seams.
  4. Beads follow from metal rods in the form of a railing.
  5. Weld a ladder from the pipe and attach it to the bed.

Folding plywood frame construction

Another option for a comfortable, practical and inexpensive bed is a folding bed. It practically does not take up space in the room and is made of available material- plywood.

DIY folding bunk bed - video

As they say, the gods do not burn the pots. Even if you have no experience in making furniture, making a simple version of a bunk bed is quite within your power. Get creative with the process good mood. Good luck, you will succeed!

AT modern apartments Rooms vary considerably in size, so not the largest room is often chosen for a nursery. The best option for increasing free space a do-it-yourself bunk bed made, the drawings and diagrams of which will be presented below. The only drawback of this option is the age of the child, since in adolescence he will be uncomfortable on the second floor. By replacing the lower bed with a sofa, you can create comfortable conditions for sleep, even for an older child.

Stages of work

How to make a bunk bed yourself? This question is asked by everyone who decided to fix the problem with the lack of a bed in the children's room. Let's try to consider the stages of making a bunk bed at home. Step-by-step instruction help you do this without outside help.

The manufacturing process looks like this:

  • the first thing to do is to choose a bed model;
  • draw up a drawing and diagram;
  • purchase materials and prepare tools;
  • on the basis of the drawing, prepare parts of the required dimensions;
  • assemble the main frame;
  • make a back, side walls, stairs, legs;
  • assemble the overall structure.

During the design and development, drawings of the bed are prepared. Particular attention is paid to the safety of the entire structure as a whole: a strong frame, reliable side walls (fences), easy stair climb.

Drawings and diagrams

All work requires accuracy and precision, so each stage accompanies the drawing. He is preparing not one, but for all parts. The exact dimensions of the parts, height, thickness will help to get the result that the master is striving for.

What is indicated on the drawing:

  • dimensions of the final structure;
  • assembly diagram of individual parts;
  • ways to connect nodes;
  • order of installation of each part;
  • dimensions of structural parts and fasteners.
Assembly diagram


Model with drawers
With side ladder
Perpendicular floors
With built-in wardrobe
Bed for children
Loft bed
With wardrobe and steps
With work area

materials

When making a bunk bed at home, you need to choose the right material. Experts recommend paying attention to the following types:

  • array - from which beautiful, strong and durable structures are obtained. But to work with it, building skills and abilities are required;
  • lumber - which must be selected from quality dried specimens. Raw wood will not retain its shape, it will begin to take away, cracks may appear;
  • MDF is a modern analogue of ordinary wood. Products look attractive and stylish. You can choose laminated MDF boards. There is a variant of the usual raw plate, then it is covered in ready-made stain and varnish. If bed parts are ordered for furniture factory, then the experts will process the edges special finish. The furniture will be neat, no different from the factory;
  • Chipboard (LDSP) is a material that is not suitable for all parts of the bed. From it you can make boxes under the base of the frame, backrest, panel. It is important to consider covering the ends of the parts with a film;
  • furniture board - consisting of pieces glued into a single whole. natural wood not just beautiful, it allows you to carve, perform other ornaments, embody interesting design solutions. To Work with furniture board only a master with a carpentry skill can do it.

Instruments

Making bunk furniture for children is not difficult if you cook everything the right tools and recall existing building skills. Of course, it’s good if the master has already made something out of wood and knows how to work with it.

For work you will need:

  • saw - hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • planer or grinder;
  • knives;
  • jigsaw (preferably electric);
  • sandpaper;
  • drill.

We need instruments and devices for measuring, fixing. You can not do the work without a simple pencil.

frame

The manufacture of the frame begins with the measurement of the mattress. The base and its shape correspond to the chosen size of the bed for the child. If the design is with a sofa, the bottom of the seat is measured.

Frame manufacturing process:

  • the box is connected to the sofa at the bottom;
  • boards (long and end) are being prepared, which are assembled into a rectangle. They can be compared to a box. There will be two such boxes according to the number of tiers;

Making a frame for the first and second floor
  • the sofa fits into the box;
  • to connect the box with the sofa, side supports are being prepared. These are two bars standing vertically. They are pulled together by smaller bars. There should also be two supports. One rectangle for one side wall, another for the second;

Thus, the frame is attached to the supports
Fastening bars to support the frame during assembly
Fastening of spacer blocks

The fastening of the boards is done convenient way: eyelets, spikes. Before fastening, they are lubricated with wood glue. The elements are connected firmly so that it is not possible for any part of the frame to loosen during operation. The resulting structure is dried. A photo of a bunk bed with a sofa is shown below.

If the spike connection is difficult for the master, then self-tapping screws can be used. The main thing is to consider their closure with outside so that there is no possibility of getting abrasions and scratches. The fastening is reinforced with metal corners.

Back

The backs are different, it can be a rack option, when slats are added to the frame of the lower and upper parts. They will hold all the furniture, protect from constant contact with the walls of the room. Often the back of the lower tier is made soft. Then the sleeping place below can be compared with a sofa.

In this version, for the back you will need:

  • furniture board, or boards, tightly pressed against each other;
  • a solid wall that will limit the bed from contact with the wall.

Prepared boards (shield, slats) are fixed to the back of the frame. For reliability, attach the bed to the wall by connecting the backrest to the wall with metal corners. At simple version the design of the back of the bed does not play a role. It is needed only to highlight each tier, to limit the frame. It can be one rail on three sides of the bed. Photos with different options for the backs are presented below.

Side walls

Side walls in construction terminology, the head and back are called. These are two elements that are similar to each other, with the only difference being that railings are inserted in the back, and the headboard remains solid. Sometimes both parts are ordered in workshops, then you just have to fix them on the frame. The side walls can be made integral for two floors.

For the head take:

  • two sanded boards, one slightly wider than the other;
  • 4 side rails.

Side wall fixing:

  • headboard boards are inserted into the rail on the sides. The second rail will be needed to fasten the walls with other parts;
  • back and headboard are connected;
  • to support the mattress, a lattice, lamella or mesh is made;

Laying rails on the top bottom
  • the rail is nailed to the inside of the frame to strengthen the fortress. It is recommended to make at least one partition for the mattress, which will add rigidity;

Bars to maintain the slatted bottom
  • a frame is being prepared for the slats, it is located along the inner plane of the bed;
  • a rail is superimposed on the frame, an approximate step of 5-7 cm.

All external ribs need to be chamfered (6x6 mm). This can be done with a hand plow.

For the back, you will also need two boards and four slats. But the location of the boards here needs to be changed: set the wide board at the bottom, the narrow board at the top. The height of the wide board of the back coincides in size with the narrow board of the headboard.


Assembling the frame base
Assembly of the upper tier

Stairs

Any children's two-story structure requires the installation of a ladder. A three-step staircase is considered traditional, but depending on the height of the bed, there may be more steps. The drawings will tell you the dimensions, the height of the stairs, the width of the step and the methods of fastening.

By type of fastening stairs are:

  • vertical - tightly attached to the frame;
  • inclined - located at an angle.

Stair manufacturing process:


Preparation for future steps
  • two beams are installed, which will be the bases of the stairs - guides;
  • then the steps are fixed. The lower step is connected to the backrest, and the rest are exactly one above the other. Steps are inserted into the bars.

Step connection methods:

  • external;
  • into the recess;
  • on metal corners.

Please note that any fastening must be closed. This will secure the child's use of the bed, protect the entire structure. If the furniture is with a sofa, it is better to make a staircase with wider steps. Then a wide beam is taken, and the steps are cut from the inside. If steps are bolted, the longest bolts are selected for the top step.

For the stairs you need a handrail for which the baby will hold. Railing drawings are always given along with a description of the installation of the stairs. The railing is a regular board, designed to grip a child’s hand, with a selection for mounting on a frame.

The ends act as stairs

legs

Legs can be of different heights and shapes. It all depends on the pattern of the bed that the master prepares.

They are fixed in several ways:

  • from within;
  • outside;
  • inserted into the frame.

To strengthen the frame, a fifth leg is added. In practice, the following types of legs are considered the most popular:

  • square;
  • round;
  • carved.

Legs are sized to provide stability and durability for children. The drawings give precise descriptions of their assembly. But their appearance is very important, they change the whole style of the furniture.

Leg manufacturing process:

  • for work, they take bars and connect them two by two together. The approximate thickness of the bars is 50–100 ml;
  • When connected along the length, an L-shaped end should be obtained. The length of the leg is equal to the height of the fence of the second tier.

Production of L-shaped legs

A do-it-yourself bunk bed will become comfortable furniture, which freed the area in the nursery. It will become an indicator skillful hands father, the pride of children. If it is a model with a sofa, then it will not only become a cozy place to relax, but will save the family budget for other necessary expenses.

The question of how to make a do-it-yourself bunk bed often appears on the “agenda” due to the fact that standard apartments do not differ in impressive areas and spaciousness. Even if the children in the family have a completely separate room, you should not clutter it up extra furniture- it is better to leave more free space for play and sports activities.

Therefore, for a family in which two or more children are growing up, a bunk bed design becomes a real find. And it’s not at all necessary to rummage through online catalogs or run around furniture stores- it is quite possible to make one on your own.

Nowadays, in the assortment of stores you can find many models of beds with two tiers, and on their basis it is quite possible to create your own version of a bed with sizes suitable for specific conditions and specifics of the location and a comfortable staircase. In addition to bunk traditional designs, you can also make a loft bed, which will free up usable space in the room.

If we consider several various options, it will be easier to choose the most acceptable design for your apartment.

traditional model

Such a bunk bed is traditional and has the simplest design of all that can be. It is quite affordable for self-production and requires a minimum amount of materials.

Such a model is perfect for a children's room and will significantly save useful space in it, which can be used to equip a workplace or a play area. In addition, the structure can serve as a good platform for intricate children's games, so it must be sufficiently stable, and in some cases it is recommended to fix it rigidly to the wall.

The big advantage of this model is natural wood, from which it is made, which is very important for a child's room. Drawings and detailed description the manufacture of this bed model will be discussed below.

Bed option with sofa

Bed, which has on its first tier folding sofa, will save even more free space in the room than a conventional two-tier design. If an ordinary bed is arranged on the ground floor, it will be uncomfortable to just sit and watch TV on it, since there is no comfortable backrest. Therefore, in addition to the above traditional version bunk bed in the children's room will still have to look for a place for a sofa or two chairs, which, of course, will take enough large area. Well, if the sofa is built into a two-tier complex, it will serve as a sleeping place at night, and during the day it will create comfortable corner for sitting or lying down. In addition, when folded, this piece of furniture will not take up a single extra centimeter of space, and when unfolded, it will become a spacious full-fledged bed.

To make such a complex on your own, you will have to buy or use an existing one and attach the rest of the structure to it, which, by the way, will be stable and reliable due to the massiveness of the lower tier.

Bed model with drawers

This version of the bunk bed, designed for three beds and additionally equipped with drawers and shelves, will take up a little more space than the usual traditional bed with two tiers. However, after all, in the children's room you still cannot do without various cabinets and drawers for toys and educational supplies, for which it can be used attached construction, at the same time performing the role of reliable, stable, leading to the second tier.

And in this version - even three beds and a lot of useful built-in lockers

The sleeping places themselves will occupy an area that would accommodate one regular bed. As you can see in the illustration, the third berth is retractable design, which hides under the mattress of the first tier for the daytime period.

Thus, three children will be provided not only with sleeping places, but also with their own drawers and shelves, and besides this, with excellent game complex, into which such a two-tier structure can turn.

Model with a double bed on the first tier

The bed, which has a double bed in the first tier, can be used in a one-room apartment, or in a two-room apartment, where it was decided to allocate one of the living quarters for a living room with a workplace. So, the first floor of the bed is given under adult bedroom, and the second is for the child.

This version of the trapezoidal design will take up the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, which is usually reserved for a laid out sofa. For its manufacture, few materials are required, but due to the widely spaced legs and the large massiveness of the lower tier, the bed will be stable and durable.

Bed for a large family

Bunk bed with four beds great choice for families with four or more children. It is more difficult to make this option, and it will require a lot of material, but the room will become spacious, and the bed will look neat along one of the walls.

The design can be modified and increased even to six beds if it is installed in the length of the room and another bunk section is added, or two retractable mattresses are equipped under the lower tier.

Loft bed

The loft bed is also used for the purpose of rational use usable area in the room and a kind of "disguise" of the bed. This option is suitable not only for small children - it is often chosen for adults, especially if the apartment consists of one room.

This design allows you to use one zone of the room in a dual purpose - on the second tier there is a wide and comfortable bed, and the lower platform of the first tier is a fairly spacious office, which provides everything for comfortable work.

An important condition for the arrangement of such a design is its strength, especially if the bed is intended for two people. Usually such a loft bed is additionally securely fixed to the wall.

Children's loft bed

The children's version of the loft bed is a whole complex that includes a table and a closet in which not only toys, but also clothes can be stored. With some reason, such a complex can even be called a small room that will become a favorite place for a child, since most children always try to create their own “secret” corner, building huts and houses out of chairs and blankets.

By making this version of the bed with all the elements necessary for playing and studying, you can solve several problems at once and save on buying furniture for a child for many years, since the complex is suitable for both a five-year-old baby and a fifteen-year-old teenager. Moreover, starting drawing up a drawing, it is quite possible to include existing cabinets and tables in it, which are perfect for the first tier of the structure.

Upon completion of the work, all elements of the loft bed are combined with a common color that will be in harmony with the design of the entire children's room.

Production of beds with two tiers

Further in the publication, the manufacture and assembly of two different models bunk beds - "classic" type and loft beds. However, many structural elements and their assembly principles are exactly the same, and in order not to repeat themselves, these nuances will first be shown separately, using the example of an ordinary wooden bed. If these principles are learned, then the creation of the second tier will no longer be difficult, of course, taking into account certain features.

The principles of high-quality assembly of a wooden bed

In order for the product to turn out neat, it is necessary to accurately manufacture and process all the details. The instruction table below contains illustrations in which the master uses professional tools They make the job much faster and easier. However, the same operations can be carried out conventional tool, which is in almost any good, "handy" owner. Of course, you will have to make a little more effort, and production will take more time, but still it is possible.

Illustration
So, all boards must be planed, their surfaces perfectly aligned and adjusted to the desired size.
This illustration shows the manufacture of the side panel load-bearing structure beds.
In order for the transverse boards on which the mattress will be laid to have reliable and strong supports, well-finished bars are fixed to the sides.
On the side panel, along the line of gluing the timber, carpentry glue is applied.
Then the glued element is laid on it.
The beam is well pressed and pulled together with clamps in several places.
After the glue dries, the parts are fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under-sweat”.
A very important point is the manufacture of the side racks-legs, since a high load falls on them.
In the future, the side and end panels of the bed will be fixed to these elements.
Therefore, they are usually assembled from two layers, one of which is the main one, and consists of a whole bar.
The second layer is assembled from separate elements located at a certain distance from each other.
This distance depends on the width of the drawer, the edge of which will be installed in the resulting groove.
Separate pieces of timber are first glued according to the markings on a solid part, and then “under-sweep” holes are drilled in them for self-tapping screws.
Another point that causes difficulties is the creation of curved forms on some details, for example, in the manufacture of semicircular headboard and footboard backs.
In order to avoid mistakes, and not to draw extra draft lines on the wood detail, it is recommended to make a paper template from which the form is transferred to the board with neat dashed contours.
Then, a flexible plastic bar is taken, which can be bent along the bend of the cut, and a fine curvilinear cut boundary is already drawn along it.
Next, the board is cut along the marked line using an electric jigsaw.
This photo shows a professional stationary machine but you can also use a hand tool.
After that, the cut line is processed with a manual or stationary milling cutter, which will round the edges and save them from protruding wood fibers.
In the same way, all the boards necessary to create elements for the head and foot are cut and processed.
When all the parts necessary for assembling the bed are made, they should be tried on and the necessary markup should be made.
Further, connecting dowels are made or purchased ready-made.
They can be round or flat as shown in this illustration.
Finished dowels are laid out on the parts to be connected.
At the same time, it will be possible to visually estimate how many of them will be needed.
In places where holes for installing dowels will be drilled, marks are made with a simple pencil.
It is easier to drill holes for round dowels by picking up a drill right size.
If flat dowels are used for connections, then several holes are drilled side by side with a drill, which are then combined with a chisel or cutter.
The dowels are inserted into the holes, while without glue, since the structure must first be pre-assembled to make sure that there are no distortions.
After that, bed racks are put on the free ends of the dowels.
For complete subsidence of parts during assembly, a rubber or wooden hammer (mallet) can be used.
Having made the connections of the parts of one of the sides of the back, proceed to the installation of the second rack.
Having assembled the individual elements of the bed, it is necessary to pre-assemble the entire “ground floor” structure to make sure that all the parts fit exactly together.
The base boards are laid on the bed frame - this process is carried out to determine optimal distance between them.
When the size of the gaps between the boards is determined, fragments of the bar are cut along it and glued between the boards to the support beam on which the base boards are laid.
These elements will allow the boards to be in a given position without shifts, so they are simply laid without fixing the edges with self-tapping screws.
After carrying out all the preliminary operations and making possible necessary adjustments, the entire structure is disassembled and reassembled, but already “tightly”, that is, with the use of glue.
The illustration clearly shows how the bedposts are connected to the headboard panels using dowels lubricated with glue.
The glued bed frame must be pulled into clamps until it dries completely, and then it is additionally fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under the hood”.
The illustration clearly shows the segments of the timber, fixed to the longitudinal support shelf of the tsarga - between them the base boards under the mattress will be subsequently laid.
The final connection of the side and backs of the headboard and footboard is made with self-tapping screws.
This illustration shows which cut must be made on the bottom of the baseboard leg so that the bed can be installed close to the wall.

So, having made all the details that are necessary for a specific drawing of the selected model, you can proceed to independent creation this original item furniture, using the shown principles of assembling the main parts and assemblies of wood.

Bunk wooden bed "classic" type

This version of the bunk bed can be called the simplest of all existing ones, which is why it is worth considering.

In this figure, the numbers show the main details of the design.

Detail of a bunk bed "classic" type

This table shows the dimensions and number of parts, and even for a novice master this data should be quite enough to make them based on the above instructions, and then assemble a bunk bed from them.

the name of detailPart size, mmQuantity, pcs.
1. Vertical racks.38×76×17304
2. Outer pads for uprights.38×76×17304
3. 38×140×20304
4. Longitudinal strips for laying frame boards, fixed to the sides with inside(not visible in the picture).32×44×18504
5. Headboard/footboard top panels20×140×9144
6. Headboard/footboard center slats20×90×9144
7. stair railing20×90×15101
8. stairs20×64×4823
9. Guard rails - cut to size when installing20×90×18002
10. Mattress support transverse rails (not visible in the figure), cut in place.20×76×100024
11. 20×140×9144

Below is an illustrated instruction table, which shows the relative position and connection of all parts of a bunk bed. Based on the diagrams and textual support for them, it will not be difficult to carry out an independent installation.

(Some illustrations show dimensions in inches. Converting to millimeters is easy: 1 inch = 25.4 mm.)

IllustrationBrief description of the operation to be performed
This is the side load-bearing part of the bed - the tsarga, designed to hold the transverse lamella boards.
Such panels are made 4 pieces, they form the length of the upper and lower boxes of the couch.
This figure shows the principle of assembling the headboard and footboard, which consist of uprights and crossbeams.
In turn, the racks are made up of a solid bar and separate segments that close the holes for connecting parts and form a groove for mounting the drawer side into it.
Assembly diagram of the headboard and footboard with detailed details and dimensions.
Here you need to pay attention to the fact that in the upper part of the back of the headboard, three separate overlays are fixed to the solid bar of the rack, since the parts of the fence will be fixed between them.
For the back of the footboard, instead of three overlays, one whole one is fixed in its upper part.
Assembled headboard and footboard parts.
Based on the dimensions given in the figure, it will be easy to mark up and assemble these bed elements.
This drawing shows the details of the stairs and railing of the upper bunk.
The location of the three steps is indicated on the ladder rack.
When attaching the bottom step to the footboard post, make sure that the fixing screws of the step do not rest against the frame fixing screws.
Now, for comfort further work, you need to fasten the headboard and footboard with the lower and upper drawers.
To do this, they are installed in the gaps left between the linings, and each of their sides is fixed with four self-tapping screws.
When the structure is firmly on the floor, you can proceed with the installation of the handrail of the stairs, its steps, as well as the railings.
The elements are fastened to each other, as well as to the headboard and footboard posts, self-tapping screws.
After all the elements are assembled into a single structure, it is possible to lay the transverse boards between the segments of the bars fixed on the sides.
The last step will be to finish the joints so that they do not leave a burr.
Then it remains only to clean the structure from dust, install it in the right place, put mattresses on the sleeping places - and the bed is ready for use.

I would like to add that it would be nice to fix the assembled structure to the wall, since children usually use it not only as a sleeping place, but also as a sports complex. In order to avoid unpleasant moments, it is better to take care in advance that the design is stable and safe.

Loft bed

Another bed option that will help save space in small apartment even with only one room. As already mentioned, the space occupied by such a bed can be usefully used for various needs.

To make this loft bed model, you will need the following materials:

  • Board 50 × 100 × 2500 mm -14 pcs.
  • Board 120×25×1000 mm - 13 pcs.
  • Board 50 × 150 × 2500 mm - 4 pcs.
  • Board25 × 50 × 2500 mm -1 pc.
  • Beam 50 × 50 × 2500 mm -2 pcs.
  • Bolts 60 mm.
  • Self-tapping screws 50÷60 mm.
  • Joiner's glue.

From the purchased lumber, it is necessary to manufacture and process the following parts:

the name of detailPart size, mmQuantity, pcs.
Vertical racks.50×100×16504
End boards of the supporting frame50×150×9502
Cross boards at the ends of the bed50×100×9504
fencing boards50×100×19004
Bearing side boards of the frame (tsargi).50×150×19002
Longitudinal bars, fixed to the sides from the inside, for laying lamellas (not visible in the figure).50×50×19002
Bearing bars for steps, the edges of which are cut parallel at an angle of 45 degrees. The edges of the boards are recommended to be rounded.25×50×2006
Step boards50×100×4506
Part of a vertical post located near the stairs.50×100×10501
Side boards of stairs (both ends sawn at an angle of 45 degrees, top edge on one side, bottom edge on both sides of the board), see below.50×150×10002
Boards for sheathing the platform of the podium of the stairs50×100×55012
End boards of the platform50×100×5002
Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (vertical)50×100×9502
Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (horizontal)50×100×8002
Cross-lamellar boards to support the mattress (not visible in the picture).120×25×100013

The diagram below gives a complete picture of how the finished bed will look like. In addition, it is possible to determine your own dimensions of the structure, since the bed can be larger or smaller than the version shown in the drawing, depending on the height and age of the child, as well as the size of the room.

Such a design may well be modified into a more compact version; a side platform is not installed, but instead a ladder is mounted, which will take up much less space.

The instruction table below will show the order of work and the dimensions that must be observed during assembly.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation to be performed
Based on the presented drawing from the prepared boards, the left end part designs.
The connection of the crossbeams with the uprights also occurs with the help of dowels, which are planted in the drilled holes on the carpentry glue, and then additionally fixed with self-tapping screws - their caps must be deepened into the wood by 2 ÷ 3 mm.
A platform with a ladder will be fixed to this side.
Further, the right end side of the structure is assembled in the same way.
It differs significantly from the previous one, as it performs the function of one of the sides of the fence.
The next step on the supporting boards of the frame (tsargs) are glued, and then the bars with delimiting sections of the board 30 mm long are screwed with self-tapping screws, between which the transverse lamellas under the mattress will be laid.
Next, the end parts of the structure are connected with drawers and fencing boards.
All parts are assembled using bolts or dowels and self-tapping screws.
If dowels are used, then they must be put on glue.
As a result, the inner platform of the bed should be 1000 × 1900 mm in size.
After that, lamella boards are laid on the protruding beam - the basis of the bed.
The next step is to assemble the support frame-rack for the podium platform.
It must be strong, as a sufficiently large load will fall on it.
The next operation - the platform frame is mounted to the frame, and the whole structure is attached to the bed.
To fasten all the elements of the podium, it is recommended to use metal corners that are screwed from the inside of the frame.
Here you need to take into account that the design must be strong enough to withstand the weight of an adult.
Further, the platform of the podium is sheathed with prepared boards.
It is best to put them on glue, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws, drowning their hats into the wood by 3 ÷ 4 mm, and seal the remaining recesses with a mixture of sawdust and glue.
All edges of the boards must be carefully processed to smoothness, so that there is no possibility of earning one or another injury.
The next step is the manufacture of stairs, and it can be called the most difficult of the entire process of building a bed.
The boards need not only to be perfectly processed, but also to cut their edges at an angle of 45 degrees, but at the same time the top one is cut off on one side, and the bottom one on both sides.
To make it easier to mark the places for fixing the bars under the steps, one board can be attached to the podium in a position in which the ladder will be attached to it.
The steps should be parallel to the floor - this can be outlined using the usual building level.
Having marked one of the boards, in the same way, with complete symmetry, mark the second one.
The cue points will set the direction for drawing lines along which uncut bars are screwed to the boards. Their edges can be trimmed after fixing - exactly at the level of the end of the board.
Further, board-steps are laid and fixed on the fixed bars.
To make it easier to work, they first fix one board at the top and bottom - this will give the structure the necessary rigidity. After that, it will be easy to screw the remaining steps.
All fasteners must be sunk into the wood, and the holes sealed with glue and sawdust.
The finished staircase must be securely fastened to the podium, and then the structure can be carefully tested.
After that, all holes, sealed with putty from glue and sawdust, are polished with sandpaper.
The next step is all assembled structure, optionally stained or varnished with a water-based varnish.
To make it easy to apply varnish or paint on surfaces, without strong absorption into wood, it is advisable to first cover all the details with a primer on wood, which will create a film by filling the pores of the material.

This publication presented the simplest designs of bunk beds, available for manufacturing even for a beginner. If all the necessary tools for woodworking are not at hand, or there is not enough confidence that the process of precise processing of workpieces will be flawless, you can entrust this work to professionals by contacting a carpentry workshop, providing the purchased material and dimensional drawings. The master will make all the details, and it remains only to independently assemble the structure at the place of its installation.

And at the end of the publication - another simple version of the children's bunk bed is shown in the attached video:

Video: how to make a children's bunk bed