A septic tank from barrels in the country: how to do it yourself. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels - inexpensive sewerage for a country dwelling Septic tank from 200l barrels

In a small summer cottage, it makes no sense to install an expensive septic tank. Especially if the cottage comes to life only in the summer, and the number of people living in it is small. You can make a septic tank from barrels in the country with your own hands. Previously, 200 liter tanks were used to build septic tanks. metal barrels. Over time, plastic barrels appeared on sale. They are much lighter and more durable. As a result, demand quickly shifted from metal to plastic drums. Of course, a good host, not to bear extra costs, will use the barrels it has. In this article, we will look at how to make a septic tank from barrels, using both metal barrels and plastic barrels.

Choosing a place for a septic tank

When choosing a place for a future septic tank, pay attention to the location of the wells with drinking water and residential buildings. According to the norms, the septic tank should be located no closer than 5 m from the dwelling and 15 m from the source of drinking water.

Installation of plastic barrels

So, you have chosen a place for installation and decided to build a septic tank from plastic barrels. You can start working:

  1. For a small suburban area, two or three barrels with a capacity of 200-250 liters are enough. Taking a little more space than the diameter of the barrels, mark out the place for the pit. Keep in mind that the distance between the barrels should be 25 cm, and they should be in one line.
  2. Get down to the hardest work with the soil. The depth of the pit is dug in steps. First, a hole is dug along the height of the first barrel. Each next barrel will be installed 15 cm deeper than the previous one.
  3. The bottom of the first two pits fall asleep sand cushion 10 cm thick. After that, they are well leveled and rammed. If your finances allow, then the bottom can be concreted. Reinforcement is poured with concrete, bent in the form of a loop with a protrusion outward. Barrels will then be tied to these loops.
  4. The bottom of the pit under the third barrel is covered with a layer of sand of about 50 cm. A layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is poured on top of the sand. This layer will filter the effluents that go into the ground.
  5. At the bottom of the first two holes, install barrels with a bottom. They will serve as septic tanks. If the bottom is made of concrete and there are loops, then with the help of belts we fasten the barrels to the loops. This device will protect the barrels from floating in the spring.
  6. Install the first barrel with a removable top cover. Through it you will clean the container from precipitation. From the top of the barrel, remove the riser from the sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for the release of gases.
  7. If the design of the septic tank provides for a filtration field, then cut holes in the second barrel located one above the other at an angle of 45 °. Pipes leading to the filtration field will be connected to these holes.
  8. In the third barrel, cut the bottom with a jigsaw or grinder, and place the pit on the filter bottom.
  9. The barrels will be connected to each other by overflow pipes. Therefore, in the sides of the barrels it is necessary to cut holes with a diameter of 110 mm under sewer pipes. The opening of the pipe coming out of the barrel should be 10 cm lower than the inlet.
  10. Using a sewer pipe, connect the barrels together. Seal the joints with sealant.
  11. After the entire installation procedure, backfill the pit. The pit is filled in layers. As the layer is added, water is poured into the barrel so that the pressure does not crush the barrel. And fill the space between the walls of the barrels with a dry mixture of sand and cement. Each layer is compacted as it falls asleep.

A photo

Filtration field

If a ground water located deep, a filtration field can be added to the septic tank device. In this case, the installation of a third filter barrel is impractical, and it is not installed. Let's take a quick look at how to make a filter field the right way:

  1. Near installed septic tank a trench is dug. Its width should accommodate 2 perforated pipes, and its depth should be about 70 cm.
  2. Geotextile fabric is laid in the trench.
  3. A perforated pipe is laid on top of the canvas and connected to the second barrel.
  4. The top of the pipe is covered with rubble, and covered with the remaining edges of the canvas. The edges of the canvas should overlap each other by 15 cm.
  5. Wrapped pipes are covered with soil. If desired, the filtration field can be sown with lawn grass.

Installation of metal barrels

If you have metal 200s lying around liter barrels, you can save on buying plastic ones. The fact is that a septic tank can also be made from metal barrels. The scheme and installation procedure are the same as when installing a septic tank from plastic barrels. Only for cutting holes in the sides of metal barrels you will need an electric jigsaw with a metal file. You will also need a welding machine, which can weld overflow pipes and a pipe for the exit of gases from the first barrel. To increase the capacity of the septic tank, barrels can be vertically welded to each other. Jumpers are welded at the welding points for strength. Metal tends to rust quickly, so it is advisable to treat the surface of the barrels before installation protective composition. It can be bitumen or any other means of similar action, sold in a hardware store.

Video

In this video you will find instructions for making a drain for a bath from a plastic barrel:

At the dacha, which is rarely used, they usually do not arrange an expensive industrial septic tank. An alternative is wastewater treatment plants made from inexpensive plastic or metal barrels. The article talks about structural features similar structures.

Manufacturers offer cleaning devices with different performance and a wide price range. many owners summer cottages prefer to make them by hand. The option is in demand for good reasons:

  • cost savings - they purchase material at a low cost, including used ones, choosing where it is cheaper;
  • use of the capacities available on the farm;
  • the possibility of using a modular scheme - options for future changes and additions are calculated in advance.

Feedback from Golodov A.N. At the dacha, he first set up a septic tank from barrels for the toilet. Then he connected the bath, kitchen, washing machine. To do this, I prepared the connection points in advance: I cut the pipes into containers and drowned them out for a while.

How does a sewage plant work

A self-made design consists of several containers located nearby. They are connected by pipes. Sections are filled sequentially, which is achieved by installing an overflow at different heights. Wastewater treatment is carried out mechanically:

  • large particles settle in the first barrel;
  • the clarified liquid from the filled container flows into the second one;
  • it can be final and serve to filter the liquid into the soil;
  • with a three-chamber version of the septic tank, additional cleaning takes place similar to that in the first section.

In the last barrel, the bottom is cut out, a backfill is made of crushed stone, gravel or sand, which serves as a filter. Layer thickness up to one meter. The first containers remain sealed.

It looks like a two-chamber septic tank with access to the filter field

Removal of clarified effluents into the ground provides optimal results, but with a close location of groundwater, the method is unacceptable. To ensure environmental safety, they arrange a filtration field. These are perforated pipes, insulated with geotextiles, which are buried in trenches. The exit is made from the last chamber.

The most common and efficient scheme from three sections. If the drains are kitchen or come from a bath, washing machine two containers are sufficient. Such waste can also be cleaned immediately in the last chamber by connecting pipes directly to it, bypassing the previous ones.

Important! Drains from the toilet must be filtered according to the full scheme.

Characteristics and cost of materials

Plastic or metal containers are suitable for sewage. To anticipate possible mistakes in installation, you should be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of materials. A comparison table will help you understand:

Plastic Metal
pros Minuses Advantages disadvantages
Light weight, easy to deliver and install It is required to securely fix it on the foundation so that the spring flood does not destroy the system Robust construction, no need for additional fastening
Frost can crush the container Rigid, not afraid of exposure to cold
Fully sealed Waterproof if walls and bottom are intact
Not afraid of corrosion and harmful effects chemical substances contained in stocks Over time, they are destroyed by rust, the service life depends on the reliability of the treatment with an anti-corrosion compound

Products from under other liquids which are on sale wholesale and by the piece are used mainly. Used prices are low. There are few manufacturers of new barrels for the construction of a small septic tank.

It is better to buy unwashed fuel barrels, lubricants. They have on inner surface a film is formed that protects against corrosion.

Manager of the company "Second-package" V.N.Martynov

Cost table for barrels per 200 liters:

The right choice of volume and location of construction

Normalized water consumption - 200 liters per day per person. The capacity of the septic tank is calculated for 72 hours. During this time, the construction of three 200-liter drums processes such a volume. With regular use of water in large quantities, this is enough for one person. In fact, consumption is less, it can be reduced by using, for example, a shower rather than a bath. Structures of this type are used mainly for cottages with temporary residence or for a bath. The volume is increased by the device of three chambers, not two.


The larger the capacity of the camera, the farther its location from home

The second requirement concerns sanitary regulations. Distance from wells or wells 30–50 meters, fruit trees, berry bushes, garden - 3 m. To the road - 5 meters.

Preparation of everything necessary for construction

Acquire materials. The main ones include:

  • sewer pipes 110 mm;
  • fittings, turns for the highway - the number is determined by the project;
  • barrels.

It is advisable to buy thick-walled containers in order to achieve a rigid connection with pipes. With thin material the seal may fail due to soil pressure.

Acquired by others expendable materials. They take care of the insulation of the chambers in advance in order to protect them from freezing - they buy thermal insulation. Seam sealer needed . It is recommended to use automotive polyurethane, silicone short-lived. The foundation for the barrel requires cement, sand, gravel. The fittings can be from any iron bars, it is not necessary to weld, just twist with wire. Sand is required without clay and organic impurities.

After choosing a place and acquiring materials, they begin construction.

Construction of a septic tank from plastic barrels

Start by preparing the containers. In one filtration cut out the bottom using a jigsaw or grinder. All chambers are connected by pipes, so holes with a diameter of 110 mm are cut out in the sidewalls. The inlet to the first container is located higher, all the rest are 10–20 cm lower than the previous one.

If the construction of a filtration field is planned, then two holes are cut out in the last barrel at an angle of 45 ° to one another. Subsequently connected here drainage pipes.


The depth of each trench exceeds the previous one by 10 cm

Having outlined circles, the diameter of which is 25 cm larger than the size of the barrels, they begin to dig a pit. All containers are placed on the same line with a distance of 30 cm between them. First, they dig a hole for the first barrel.

The bottom of the first hermetic pits is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm thick and rammed. Next, the reinforcement is laid, slightly raised above the surface. The ends of the rods are bent and brought out above the expected thickness of the concrete. Barrels are then tied to them, or the second option is used, when hooks are poured with a solution.

Advice. Alternative optionthreaded studs. Hooks are made of them, metal plates are fixed with nuts in a straight section, fixed in a cement mortar.

The last filtration chamber. She is covered with a layer river sand 30 cm, on top - crushed stone or pebbles, expanded clay. The total thickness is adjusted to 0.8–1 m.

Proceed to the installation of barrels:

  1. Installed in the pits of the container. Fix on the foundation by one of the methods described above, insulate.
  2. Cover with removable lids. They serve to pump out wastewater when needed.
  3. Above the barrels, ventilation is constructed from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The minimum quantity is above the first, but it is better to supply everything. Then bad smell will not be heard.
  4. The containers are connected by pipes, observing the slope. All joints are sealed with sealant. If it is automotive, the surface can be painted.

Hatches rise above the surface to a height of up to 20 cm

Backfill the pit with dry sand and cement. It is important to avoid mistakes. In order not to crush it, a little water is added to the barrel, the space is filled in layers with the mixture and rammed.

Features of the installation of metal barrels

It is easier to buy iron containers, especially if they have been used before, than plastic ones, and cheaper. Installation is almost no different, the procedure is the same. Larger chambers are built from metal barrels, installing one on top of the other. It will take welding machine and the ability to own it, so as not to attract outside help. Stiffeners are installed at the joints. Their absence sometimes leads to squeezing of the container, especially with thin walls.


The volume of the septic tank is doubled by installing one barrel on top of another

Pipes can be used plastic, covering the seams with sealant. To cut holes, it is better to use a jigsaw and a metal file. Bulgarian is harder to achieve round shape. Before installation in pits, the surfaces are protected on both sides with bitumen or anti-corrosion paint. It is advisable to remove the rust earlier. Anchoring containers is not necessary, but it is better to do it - it is simple and easier than with a plastic barrel.

Answers on questions

Question number 1. Is it necessary to fix the filtration chamber, because there is no foundation at the bottom?

It is better to fix in order to avoid extrusion by frost or ground water. It is done in a slightly different way. 3-4 iron rods are hammered into the bottom. A barrel is tied to them on belts.

A septic tank on the site is necessary, as each person wants to surround himself maximum comfort, whether private house, cottage settlement or country cottage area. The presence of communications and their correct placement for the installation of a toilet and a bathroom in the areas is regulated by law. Mandatory compliance with the rules and regulations for the installation of treatment facilities will save not only your nerves, but also save your budget from fines.

It is necessary to choose wisely the choice of materials for the construction of a wastewater treatment system or purchase a ready-made factory solution in the form of a treatment plant and pay for its installation. It all depends on your desire and financial capabilities, as well as the number of regular users, etc.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the creation of a structure in which a 200-liter barrel is involved, in which cases such a septic tank takes place and how to properly install and install.

One of the main reasons for not using a barrel is that it has a small volume (maximum 200 liters). BUT daily rate stocks for one user and is this volume. Also, the barrel has very thin walls and a bottom, the second reason, which can lead to collapse or ascent under the influence of groundwater.

Better buy turnkey solution from the manufacturer's plant in the form of a treatment plant or build your own septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, which will save cash and will cost only 25,000-30,000 rubles. Moreover, if you do not feel enough strength or knowledge in yourself to carry out construction, then you can attract a group of specialists who can help you without any problems.

We offer you to get acquainted with the independent construction of a septic tank from concrete rings.

If, nevertheless, you decide to create a septic tank from barrels, then you should read our recommendations in detail.

Basic principles of work

A septic tank from barrels should include two main elements: a sump - a container, in our case a barrel, in which a 3-day stratification of wastewater into water and solid precipitation will take place, and filtration fields - where final filtration and discharge of water into priming. If you install several barrels in series in a chain for the sludge function, that is, create a string of sumps, then the degree of purification will be much higher than that of a single case. Plus, filter fields will silt up more slowly and last longer.

It is important to understand that the presence of several cameras in the septic tank will not a high degree wastewater treatment to discharge water into a reservoir or sewage channel. Since only factory treatment facilities can give such a degree of purification. Therefore, no matter how many settling tanks you install, it will not be possible to obtain ideal water (with BCP> 2 mg/l).

Under what conditions is it impossible to build a sewage treatment plant

  • Placing a septic tank near the main aquifer is prohibited, as this is a sanitary zone by law;
  • Soil features, i.e. according to the composition of the earth they are not filtering;
  • Areas with increased risk of landslides;
  • Subject to a high level of groundwater;
  • The size of the plot does not allow to withstand all the norms prescribed in the law, the placement of a residential building and elements of a septic tank.

How to choose the right place for a septic tank

According to legislative documents in Russian Federation when constructing a cleaning facility, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 5 meters from the dwelling to it, the same rule applies to the road. The distance to the neighbors' plot should correspond to 4 meters, this will save good relationship with the nearest neighbors.
For the garden, it is necessary to provide a distance of 2 meters from green spaces and shrubs so that plant roots do not damage your treatment plant.

If there is a well or an aquifer on the site, then the minimum distance from the septic tank to them should be 20 meters, if there are no connections with the layers that are responsible for filtration and carry water. If there is a place to be their intersection, then you need to contact a special service that will determine the required distance on the spot.

How to correctly calculate the volume and number of cameras

It is generally accepted that the daily volume for one user is 200 liters. Therefore, when building a septic tank from barrels for one person, you need to take 3 barrels for a sump, since drains must be settled for at least 3 days. For more people, you need to take and large quantity barrels, but always a multiple of 3.

On the positive side of the barrel cleaning design is the fact that more sludge barrels connected in series can prolong the life of a filter field that cannot be cleaned. Therefore, when it exhausts its resource, you will have to create a new one.

Materials for the construction of a septic tank

  • Polymer barrels (minimum 3), corrugated plastic pipe and another barrel that will be used to create a well;
  • Mandatory availability of covers for sewerage;
  • Sewer pipes 11 cm (length = distance from the septic tank to the residential building + a margin of 2 meters);
  • Ventilation pipe 1.5 m with head;
  • A tee that will fit in diameter to pipes and fittings;
  • Set of couplings and flanges.

How to prepare a pit

The distance from the house to the septic tank should ideally be 7-10 meters, the main outlet pipe should not have turns, as this will lead to additional costs for installing a manhole and increase the chances of blockages, and run straight with a slight slope of no more than 20 cm.

At the exit point of the sewer from the house, you need to dig a trench 5-10 meters and 1 meter wide. A round or rectangular pit with a 10 cm step at the bottom is needed at the location of the barrels so that the chambers can work as communicating vessels. The size of the pit should freely accommodate not only the barrels, but also the insulation for the walls and allow them to be well sprinkled.

In order to prevent groundwater from squeezing out the barrels, it is necessary to create a concrete cushion at the bottom of the pit. And also fix metal loops in cement for subsequent anchoring.

Installation and final work

Place containers in the form of barrels in a row with a difference between adjacent ones of 10 cm. The distance between the barrels should be 10-15 cm.

Set the first one to a height of 20 cm (put on a pallet), cut a recess of 11 cm at the place where the sewerage is supplied. Seal the hole with sealant with mastic. Insert a tee for ventilation and supply here.

Step back 10 cm below and make a second hole, seal it and place the fitting at a 90 degree angle. Cover the barrel with a lid and fix the ventilation pipe with a cap.

The upper barrel is located 10 cm below ground level for insulation, the lower one is 30 cm below the first

At the top of the adjacent barrel, cut a hole for the fitting and connect the barrels with a seal. On the opposite side, in the center, create a hole for the branch pipe (up to 30 cm in length) and connect it.

The slope of the supply pipe is 2 cm per meter

Drainage pipes are laid with a slope of 2.5 cm per meter

Lay a special geotextile sheet on the bottom, lay a perforated pipe on top and connect it to the second barrel. Fill with rubble and cover with a cloth overlap. A layer of soil is laid on top.

To finished construction a septic tank can be connected to an outlet pipe. It is necessary to fill up the barrels gradually alternating cement with sand, with tamping and watering. And you need to fill the barrels with water to avoid squeezing them.

Cover the top with foam and soil, and the manhole cover should be on the surface. Do not forget to clean the sediment in time (once every 6 to 12 months).

A do-it-yourself septic tank is built from barrels, as a rule, on suburban areas, where people live periodically - for example, in summer period, as well as temporary sewerage at construction sites.

Now it's easy to buy ready-made autonomous system collection and treatment of sewage, manufactured in the factory. It can be used as capital construction for country house. But for arranging a septic tank in the country, where you only periodically rest, and do not live permanently, it makes no sense to purchase such a system due to its high cost and complexity of installation.

Much easier and more financially sensible to do it yourself the simplest sewerage using for these purposes metal or plastic barrels (both used and completely new).

A similar septic tank is constructed from tanks with a volume of 200-250 liters. It is clear that such reservoirs are not able to contain a large number of drains. This fact is considered the main disadvantage of septic tanks from barrels. But the described structures have a lot of advantages. They are very easy to install. All work on the arrangement of sewerage is done by hand.

Tanks with a volume of 200 liters

The most time-consuming operation when installing barrels is digging a pit for them. You can do it yourself or order special equipment. In the first case, the costs will be minimal, but in the second, the work will take quite a bit of time. You choose.

If you want to use metal tanks or barrels, you should immediately take care of their treatment with special anti-corrosion compounds. Such containers have low resistance to aggressive influences. Wastewater. Without additional protection it makes no sense to exploit them from rusting - in just a couple of seasons they will fail.

But a do-it-yourself septic tank made of plastic barrels will last you much longer and without anti-corrosion protection. True, the installation of such tanks will be more difficult. This is due to the low weight of plastic containers. They will have to be additionally secured to eliminate the risk of barrels being pushed to the surface during spring floods.

About the process of building a septic tank from plastic products we will talk in great detail. It is these autonomous temporary sewers that are most often built in summer cottages. And now we will briefly talk about the principles of building a septic tank from iron tanks.

When arranging a septic tank from iron containers need to dig a pit suitable sizes and in without fail to concrete its bottom. Then prepare two barrels, drill holes on their sides. In them you will insert the outlet of the drainage and the inlet of the overflow pipe. Remember - the tubular product coming from the house is always inserted into the first barrel with a certain slope. Due to this, wastewater will flow by gravity into the septic tank without any problems.

Important pro tips to follow when equipping a sewer system from metal barrels:

  • the second metal container should be installed in the pit a little lower than the first;
  • use barrels with a volume of at least 200 liters;
  • high-quality insulation of the septic tank from all sides is mandatory (it is not necessary to lay heat-insulating material only at the bottom of the pit);
  • the tanks are backfilled with soil, the septic tank is covered with roofing material, covers made of wood, iron (do not forget to make a hole in the coating through which the effluents will be periodically pumped out of the tanks).

Arrangement sewer system from metal barrels

If you want to increase the volume of the structure under consideration, it is allowed to install several barrels on top of each other and weld them together. In addition, additional iron jumpers can be mounted. They will provide a more secure fastening of the barrels. All joints between barrels should be carefully waterproofed. For this, hot bitumen is most often used.

Let's say right away. No matter how you set up the system iron barrels, after 3-4 years, metal tanks will have to be changed. They will begin to rot and rust under the influence of aggressive drains.

Despite the ease of installation of such sewers, you will have to clearly plan all activities. First, decide where exactly you will install the septic tank. It must be removed from the garage, sauna and other outbuildings by 1–2 meters, and from the residential building by 5 meters (at least). A wastewater collection facility is not built next to a well or well, from where clean water is supplied to the house.

Next, select your scheme autonomous sewerage. For multiple people using country septic tank in the warm season, a system of three barrels is recommended, which are connected in series with each other. Note! The first two containers must be with a bottom (they perform the function of settling chambers), the third - without it. The last barrel is essentially a filter well.

Sewer system from barrels

Principles of installation of plastic containers:

  • The second barrel is placed at the bottom of the pit 10 cm below the first, the third - lower by the same 10 cm in relation to the second.
  • Under the first two tanks, you need to equip a pillow from (its height is about 10 cm).
  • The barrels are connected to each other by sewer pipes (they are called overflow pipes). In this case, the outgoing tubular product is located 10 cm below the incoming one.
  • Under a barrel that does not have a bottom, a special cake should be made - a layer (0.3 m) plus a layer of sand (0.5 m). Such a pillow is necessary for the final post-treatment of wastewater soaking into the ground.

If at your dacha the groundwater is high enough, instead of the third barrel, filtration fields are equipped.

Now purchase the materials that will be required for the construction of a septic tank (barrels, geotextiles, small gravel, corners for connecting pipe products, 110 mm sewer pipes, sand) and proceed to the next stage of the planned event.

A pit for a septic tank is dug manually or with the help of vehicles. According to its parameters, the pit is made larger than the geometric dimensions of the plastic containers used. Along the entire perimeter of the pit, the distance between its sides and barrels is maintained at the level of 0.25 m.

The bottom of the dug pit is necessary:

  • tamp qualitatively;
  • fill it with sand (arrange a 10-centimeter sand cushion);
  • pour concrete solution;
  • mount metal embedded elements in the resulting base (barrels will be fixed to them, so they must be with loops).

Experts advise additionally attaching plastic tanks to concrete base through special belts (they are called bandage). They give a 100% guarantee that the barrels will not float to the surface during a flood.

Fastening plastic tanks

Now let's take a look at the plastic containers. In the one that will be installed first, we make a hole (it must be at a distance of 0.2 m from the tank cover) for a pipe coming from a residential building. On the opposite side of the chamber, another hole is cut out (in relation to the first one, it is shifted down by 0.1 m).

Also, another hole is made in the first container. It is required to connect ventilation riser. Important advice! It is desirable to equip the first barrel with a removable lid. In this tank, after settling the effluents, there is always great amount solid waste. And this means that you will have to clean it more often.

Drill holes in the second one in the same way. plastic container. If you are planning to build filtration fields, you need to cut two holes in the second barrel, placing them at a 45-degree angle to each other. These holes are needed for installing drainage pipes.

Installation of a septic tank, filtration well and filtration fields

The scheme for performing installation work is as follows:

  1. Put two plastic barrels in the pit.
  2. Connect pipes to chambers.
  3. Doing backfill tanks, using a composition consisting of cement (dry powder) and sand. This backfill perfectly protects the structure from destruction during soil movements. The mixture is fed in layers of 0.25–0.3 m, and each layer must be compacted. At the same time as filling, pour water into the containers. Thus, you protect the barrels from deformation.
  4. Pour a pillow of sand and gravel on the installation site of the third tank (a well for filtering wastewater), put the last barrel on the resulting cake and pour fine gravel into it (about a third).

Your septic tank is ready!

If instead seepage well you have planned the construction of filtration fields, the arrangement of the latter is done as follows:

  1. For the installation of drainage pipes, dig trenches of the required size. They must have a slope (per meter of pipe products - 2 cm).
  2. You lay geotextiles on the bottom of the trenches, its sections on the sides are thrown onto the sides of the ditch.
  3. Fall asleep with crushed stone (height 0.3 m) geotextile material.
  4. Place pipes for drainage on a layer of rubble. As such, it is allowed to use home-made products (make holes in ordinary steel pipes). But it is better to use factory perforated pipes.
  5. Fill the trench with a layer of crushed stone and lay geotextiles on top (overlap width - about 0.1 m).

You just have to fill the ditch with earth. Fields for filtering drains are made.

Most practical solution in terms of disposal of domestic wastewater for a country house is a sewerage device based on a septic tank.

Today it is not at all difficult to buy it, because many Russian and foreign companies are engaged in the production of such devices.

However, spending a lot of money is not at all necessary: ​​with small volumes of drains, it is quite possible to make a septic tank with your own hands from barrels standard sizes. In this article, this technology will be discussed in sufficient detail.

Homemade septic tank from barrels - the best option for giving, where a small family lives only in the warm season.

The cost of installing a purchased septic tank, which has a considerable cost, in such conditions can be considered unjustified.

Design treatment plant quite simple, so any person who knows which side to take on the shovel can easily handle with its installation.

It is designed mainly for fecal effluents, other waste is best disposed of in a storage tank (cistern).

Construction of a septic tank from barrels

Until a certain time, metal barrels were used in the manufacture of home-made treatment plants, but now polymer containers are used instead of them, which can be easily obtained today. Plastic barrels weigh almost nothing, and most importantly, they are not afraid of corrosion, so a septic tank built from them will last much longer than a metal one. With small volumes of septic tank drains from a barrel of 200 - 250 liters, it will be enough. A do-it-yourself septic tank made of plastic barrels is also quite easy to manufacture and install.

Septic tank device

Consider how to make a septic tank from a barrel. To install a septic tank, you will need three barrels, which will be connected in series with pipes. The first two barrels will have bottoms, and the last one will need to be cut off - the purified water should go into the ground. At high level groundwater at the site to organize the flow of treated water will need special facility– filtration field, also called aeration field. We will describe below what it is.

A septic tank built according to this scheme is called a three-chamber. The effluents coming from the house in the first chamber (barrel) are settled and at the same time decomposed by special bacteria into simple non-toxic substances that will settle to the bottom.

Arrangement and installation of a three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field

As the chamber fills, the clarified water that appears on top will flow through the pipe into the next container, where it will pass the second stage of purification with the participation of bacteria of a different species. After that, again through the overflow pipe, the liquid enters the filtration well (barrel without a bottom) or into the aeration field. After such purification, no more than 5% of contaminants remain in the water, which makes it possible to use it even for watering a garden or vegetable garden.

If the second stage of cleaning is not provided and the septic tank consists of only two barrels, it is called a two-chamber. It will be less effective, but easier to install.

The main advantage of a septic tank is that it has to be pumped out much less frequently than cesspool. In addition, if bacterial cultures are chosen correctly to populate the treatment plant, their waste products can be used as fertilizer.

Where can a septic tank be installed?

In construction and sanitary standards stipulated minimum distances between the septic tank and the following objects:

  • water wells and wells: on soils with good throughput(sands and sandy loams) - 50 m, for all others - 30 m;
  • garages and baths - 1 m;
  • neighboring plot - 2 m;
  • trees (distance to filtration fields) — 4 m;
  • roads with busy traffic and car parks: - 4 m.

If you intend to pump out accumulated sludge using a sewage truck, choose a place with the possibility of access for it.

Relative to the house, the septic tank should be installed at a distance of no more than 5 m. If the structure is placed further, it will have to be deeply buried in order to ensure the slope of the pipe coming from the house. In addition, with a significant length, this pipe will often become clogged.

Preparation of materials and tools

That's what home master you need to stock up before starting work:

  • plastic barrels (3 pcs.);
  • PVC pipes for sewerage with a diameter of 110 mm;
  • fittings (corners and tees), couplings and flanges designed for the same diameter;
  • glue for PVC products;
  • two-component epoxy sealant;
  • plumbing tape;
  • coarse-grained river sand;
  • crushed stone with a fraction size of 1.5 to 3.6 cm;
  • wooden pegs for marking the construction site.

To build a filtration field you will need:

  • geotextile fabric;
  • drainage pipes with perforation.

You also need to prepare the following tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • shovel;
  • rake;
  • building level.

A septic tank is much more practical than a conventional one. drain hole because the waste is recycled and does not pollute environment, besides, purified water can be used in technical needs. , do-it-yourself installation.

You can read the reviews of the owners of the Topas septic tank. What are the negative and positive user comments related to?

Sooner or later, the septic tank or cesspool needs to be cleaned of drains. The services of an assistant are quite expensive and it is inconvenient to call an assistant car every time. Here you will learn about more modern way wastewater treatment - bacteria for septic tanks and cesspools. We choose an effective remedy.

Mounting

Work must be done in a specific order.

Pit preparation

The dimensions of the pit should be 50 cm more sizes the septic tank itself, so that after installing the barrels, a space of 25 cm wide remains between them and the walls of the pit.

The depth of the pit must be such that the following conditions are met:

  • The sewer pipe coming from the house must have a slope of 2 cm per 1 m of length, while the minimum trench depth for it (at the exit from the house) is 30 cm.
  • The inlet in the first barrel should be 20 cm from its top.
  • The first two drums should be installed on a concrete pad 30-40 cm thick, and the last one on a sand and gravel filter 80 cm thick.

The bottom of the pit should be stepped, so that each subsequent barrel is located 10 - 15 cm below the previous one.

Bottom concreting and sand and gravel filter installation

In that part of the pit where the first two barrels will be located, a layer of sand is poured onto the bottom, which must be compacted, pouring abundantly with water, and leveled. The layer thickness is 15 - 20 cm. A layer of crushed stone of the same thickness is poured on top. A mesh of bonded reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm with a cell size of 20x20 cm is laid on the backfill, to which embedded parts - lugs are attached. The last barrels will need to be tied with straps so that they do not float.

At the installation site of the third barrel, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand 50 cm thick, and on top with a layer of crushed stone 30 cm thick. This is the sand and gravel filter.

Barrel preparation

On opposite sides of the first barrel, using an electric jigsaw, it is necessary to make inlet and outlet holes.

The first is located 20 cm from the top, the second - 30 cm. A hole for the ventilation riser is cut in the upper part.

The first barrel should have a removable lid or a wide mouth, through which it will be possible to periodically remove the sediment accumulated at the bottom.

Two holes are also made in the second barrel, and the outlet should be 10 cm lower than the inlet. The third barrel will only have one hole.

The second and third chambers will not be equipped with ventilation risers.

Installation of a septic tank

The barrels are installed in the pit and connected to one another by overflow pipes. The junction of each pipe with the barrel wall should be treated with a two-component sealant.

The supply pipe (from the house) is laid in a trench with minimum depth 30 cm and a slope of 2 cm per 1 m, after which it is insulated with a backfill of crushed stone, sand and roofing felts. If the region of construction is characterized by very coldy, the depth of the trench should be increased, and expanded clay or extruded polystyrene foam should be used as a heater.

Scheme of installation of a plastic septic tank

It is better to overlay the walls of the trench with red brick. If the cost of such a finish was not included in your plans, you need to make at least a sand cushion.

All drums should be strapped to eyelets that have been prudently embedded in the concrete.

backfilling

The gap between the barrels and the walls of the pit must be filled with a dry mixture of sand and cement with a layer-by-layer rammer.

Due to this, the impact from the freezing soil will be reduced to zero.

Before starting work, the barrels must be filled with water, otherwise the backfill will crush them.

From above, the septic tank must be covered with earth.

How to make an aeration field?

If the groundwater on the site is high, it is necessary to apply a different septic tank scheme: instead of the last chamber - the filtration well - they arrange a filtration field. It is done like this:

  1. AT suitable place a trench is dug, which at one end rests against the second tank of the treatment plant. The depth of the excavation is 60 - 70 cm, and the width should be such that two drainage pipes with perforated walls can fit in it.
  2. The inner surface of the trench is covered with geotextiles. The cut should be wide enough, since they will also need to cover the pipes laid in the trench.
  3. At half the depth, the trench is covered with rubble, which must be leveled and compacted.
  4. It is necessary to lay perforated pipes on a layer of crushed stone, connecting them at one end to the second barrel. Holes in the barrel should not be cut next to one another, but at some distance, so that the angle between their axes, when viewed from above, would be 45 degrees.
  5. A 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured over the pipes. Then the entire structure is “wrapped” in geotextile, laying its edges with an overlap of 15–20 cm.
  6. The filtration field must be covered with soil. Now you can grow a lawn or a flower bed here.

Instead of geotextile, you can use a banner canvas - a durable waterproof material coated on both sides thin layer PVC.

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