Shower in the winter in the country. A warm shower cabin with my own hands: how I built it in the country. How to autofill a tank

With the onset summer season owners of cottages and private houses are increasingly thinking about building a shower cabin on their site, since it is an indispensable part of personal use, especially for those who work in the beds. The owner may well make this structure on his own. To do this, it is enough to study the theory and gradually put it into practice. Let's take a closer look at what it consists of country shower equipped with heating.

The device and features of the summer shower

One of the simplest designs of a summer shower consists of a square or rectangular booth, the length of the sides in which is chosen taking into account the build of the people living in the country. If we talk about a water heater, then such cabins are common, the water in which is heated by the sun. The water tank itself is a plastic or metal container. A pipe is built into its bottom, to which a faucet and a shower head are attached. Opening the faucet allows water to flow out of the tank, providing enough pressure for comfortable bathing.

External surfaces a tank of this design is painted with black paint, which allows it to more efficiently absorb the infrared radiation emitted by the celestial body. Usually by the afternoon the water becomes warm, and in the evening it is sometimes just hot.

There is a more advanced version of heating - a tank with a heating element built into it, connected to electricity.
There are also options for heating water with titans, and sometimes craftsmen mount a certain structure in which a blowtorch heats a coil with water flowing inside.

These are interesting, but not very effective methods of heating, although in the cold period you cannot do without them.

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Any summer shower is required to think over and develop a project before erection. Doing this job is easier than you might think. The height of the structure must be at least 2.5 m so that the person is not constrained during the shower procedure.

Approximate drawing of the future design

It is also required to provide inside the cabin free space, sufficient so that at the time of bathing it was possible to bend over without bumping into the walls with your elbows. Minimum dimensions rooms - 1 x 1 m. At the same time, you should think about the place to store towels and personal belongings so that they do not get wet. For a "dressing room" an area of 0.5 m² is sufficient. In reality, the most comfortable design will be 1.4 x 1.9 m.

Tip: the small area of \u200b\u200bthe constructed shower room will subsequently cause its destruction. To ensure the stability of the structure, it is recommended to put the booth on pile foundation.

Heating selection

It is possible to provide heating by purchasing an electric heater, but it is expensive, therefore unprofitable, because the country shower is used only periodically.

You can heat water with a blowtorch, while the pipes are required to be made of metal. Here is how such a design is mounted:

The pipe supplying water to the tank should be taken outside the perimeter of the shower room. Outside the booth, a shelf is fixed on the wall, on which a heat exchanger should be installed.
The last unit is made from a thin tube, twisted into a spiral, and then fixed in a casing. It is easy to make such a "serpentine" - it is enough to wind a thin one on a thick pipe. To get warm water, 4 turns are enough, but there will be a hot shower if you make at least 8 such turns.
Then take a large pot. Its size should allow the coil to fit, as well as blowtorch.
The free ends of the "coil" must be connected to the water supply pipeline. If you make a connection on the couplings, then it can be removed for the winter.

There is another way - to build a small greenhouse above the tank. For this purpose, the frame is covered with a film. Such a design will increase the water temperature by 10 degrees, and the wind will not be able to cool it.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a shower stall, you will need some tools:

a hammer;
roulette;
level;
corner;
bolts;
nails;
tank and pipes;
a pair of taps;
shovel;
shower head.

As well as the following materials:

boards;
slats;
brick;
plastic sheets;
a frame that will be more convenient to make from pipes;
cement and sand (to organize the foundation and lay out the brick);
insulation, plaster, any paint (for finishing).

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

Choose comfortable spot so that the water in the tank could heat up under the sun, and the drain went into the country sewerage. Remember that the building must be protected from drafts and wind. If there is a hillock on the site, use it for a shower cabin: this way the water will heat up faster and there will be less chance of wind “walks”.
Then we build the cabin itself. First, we equip the drain system. The simplest and most hygienic option is to dig a small hole directly under the shower composition, from which lay an inclined pipe to a larger pit - compost or drain. A septic tank and drainage should be located near the drain.
Preparing the base for the summer shower
Next, prepare the base of the shower by digging a small indentation. We cover the roofing material in it, pour crushed stone on top. We mount the shower tray in the recess.
The next step is to install the frame. We assemble the frame, for which we concrete metal pipes, and with the help of long bolts we connect the structure, placing boards and plastic sheets between the pipes. The base should be strong enough, since a tank of water will be installed on it.
We create a dressing inside, which will serve as lags for the shower floor. The slopes are placed between adjacent pillars in the thickness of the wall.
We do the outer lining. Among the options for execution: moisture-resistant plywood, lining, fiberboard and even ordinary film. The cladding of the room should be done in accordance with common style suburban area - otherwise the design will look like a "black sheep".
Sheathing the frame with boards and plastic panels
We separate the locker room from the room with a shower with a high threshold; in order to avoid splashes, we hang a waterproof curtain between them.
To make it comfortable to take a shower even in the cool season, you can insulate the cabin with polystyrene foam. We fill the space of the frame with sheets of material. From the inside, tighten the film, fixing it on the walls.
Interior decoration can also be made of a film with a pattern that will decorate the space. Attach it with rails to the walls, after covering them with a layer of varnish. Also perfect for interior decoration. plastic panels or thin linoleum.
We install the tank. To do this, we place a vessel on the support pillars (an ordinary barrel is also suitable) above the cabin. To fix it, we mount the outlet and install a tap with a nozzle responsible for spraying water. To fill the tank with water, use a low power pump or connect the tank to the water supply. We make a water supply from a metal-plastic pipe. To avoid overfilling the tank, purchase a valve that will shut off the water supply when the tank is full. Don't forget to paint the barrel black!
Tank installation
If you are worried about sufficient water heating, ensure it by building a greenhouse above the tank. To do this, you just need a frame made of timber, sheathed with a film. So the water will not cool down with gusts of wind, and in sunny weather it will heat up faster.
The easiest option for arranging the floor is to lay boards with gaps so that water flows into an already prepared hole. Plus, the wooden floor provides a warm surface for bare feet. The only drawback is that a draft can wander through the cracks, which will cause discomfort. Therefore, an alternative and more attractive option would be the construction of a cement screed, which will subsequently be covered with a moisture-resistant material and hidden under a wooden grate.
The last step is the final design of the shower stall to your own taste. There is complete freedom of imagination here - you can lay tiles on the floor, make a roof with walls from frosted plexiglass, build a sliding door.
Design decoration

The nuances of operating a country shower

It is important for a comfortable stay in the room to have enough heat in it in addition to water. To do this, it is better to organize the thermal insulation of walls and roofs.
It is a mistake to build thick walls with a door that closes tightly. As a result, poor ventilation will lead to the spread of mold.
If the water is heated by a heating element, you should remember the rules for safe electrical installation. Since the degree of humidity in the shower is increased, it is necessary to use plastic drains.

Building a summer shower is a very simple and short-lived business. stock up essential tool, choose the right material, and add a little imagination and patience to your desire.

Outdoor shower, great to have it. And that would be enough if there was always
summer, and not just summer, but warm summer. And what to do when I went to the country for a week,
during the day 15-20 degrees, and frosts at night. In the morning, the water in the shower not only invigorates, but also
crooks teeth when you brush them. Either a walrus or a suicide is capable of rinsing with such water. Even a shower with heated water does not solve the problem, after it you have to run to the house. And summer is not all year round. Conclusion - do not ride in a cool
weather or build a shower in the house.
The house is a log house, ready to receive us in any weather. Check-in at the dacha begins early in the spring, and work on the hacienda is at sea. After a hard day, I want to wash off everything that stuck during the day, and preferably with warm water. We are already a people spoiled by urban amenities, and therefore country amenities also do not seem superfluous.
We decided to build a warm shower. The place was chosen on the first floor of the veranda. The veranda is not heated, but the entrance to the house is within easy reach. We decided to make a separate insulated room.
The walls were upholstered with clapboard with glass wool insulation and vapor barrier made of polyethylene film on both sides of the insulation. Internal walls the shower room was covered with waterproof varnish in three layers.
storage tank, into which water is supplied by a pump from a well, is located on the second floor of the veranda. The difference between the levels of the floors is only 3 meters. I had to raise the tank above the floor to the maximum distance to ensure sufficient water pressure when using the shower.
In the shower room there are: a shower cabin with a 90x90 tray, a corner sink and a heating tank mounted on the wall. I made the main wiring of pipes on a shield attached to the wall of the log house.
supply cold water decided to make from polyethylene pipes. Metal plastic in the early 2000s still bit and was in few places. Metal-plastic made only the output of hot water from the heating tank to the shower faucet.
The pipe and all components were bought on Ryabinovaya Street in Moscow. There is also a free consultant on drafting the layout of the water supply system.
The pallet was installed with an inclination to drain hole. The drain was made from a long polyethylene corrugated pipe without a siphon. The drain pipe descends into the underground and through a hole in the foundation goes out into the street, where it ends with a barrel of rubble dug into the ground. It is crowded in the underground and even twice a year there is no desire to crawl through there to drain and twist the siphon, therefore I decided to abandon it.
And if you do not drain the water from the siphon in time, the frost will tear it apart. The pallet was connected to the drain pipe and checked for leaks, it does not drip. I installed the cabin, fixed the mixer. In the corner of the shower room, by the window, fixed corner sink washstand.
Let's move on to the split. I put a tap on the inlet pipe of the tank that shuts off the water supply, because. the same pump is used for other purposes. Water enters the tank through the top inlet.
The lower outlet from the tank leads to the heating tank and, bypassing it, to the shower faucet and washbasin. Before entering the water into the heating tank, I installed a tap so that water could be drained from it before leaving the dacha in the cold season. To do this, you just need to turn off the cold water, and open the outlet for hot water.
The water in it descends from the tank and two outlets of hot and cold water are connected to the tank, thereby excluding it from the water supply system. You can continue to use the taps.

Warm shower

Wiring diagram

DIY

The site was created in the uCoz system

We create a warm shower in the country: we find out the technical points

Of course, before you start building, you will have to make drawings of a warm shower in the country with your own hands in order to calculate all the materials, and besides, technical capabilities with which you are going to endow this structure.

After all, often heated water is in such buildings only in hot weather, that is, it heats up naturally, depending on weather conditions, but it can also be forced heating.

Country shower with heating

It is about this, forced method of heating the water, as well as about the insulation of the architectural structure, we want to tell you, as well as provide your attention in this article.

Warm shower box

How to supply hot water

The main problem for a shower that is separate from the house is hot or at least warm water - if this can be organized in a building from a common system, then autonomy is needed here.
In this case, the most convenient option- this is a flowing electric heater, because almost any country house is connected to the mains, therefore, the installation of such a device is a minor technical problem, where the safety instructions against electric shock must be observed.
Let's say right away that this is not any super option - to very high temperature the device does not heat the water, especially if it is cold, but, given the very specifics of a country shower, warm water will be enough for you.
In most cases, even if the price of the device is high, it will not heat water above 40 ⁰C, but you are unlikely to need more.
Another option is the supply of hot water from the house - the pipes are laid underground and insulated, but during transportation there are too large heat losses, and if this does not bother you, then this option is better than the first one.

How to heat a shower

Infrared wall heaters

But you can make such a box with heating, and here, infrared heaters are the best suited for heating, and there are good reasons for this.

Firstly, the IR panel will heat up very quickly small room, since there is a special principle of giving off heat calories - the panel will not heat the air, but nearby objects, which will just become a source of heat.

Secondly, such devices can be installed in any place convenient for you - on the floor, on the ceiling and on the wall, and, thirdly, they can be easily turned off and removed.

This very “third”, perhaps, is the dominant factor in favor of IR systems - they will not be stolen, since you will have the opportunity to bring them into the house for the winter, or even take them to the city.

Note. Infrared heaters are not only different power but also in different configurations.
That is, it can be a device in the form of a panel, but it can also be a film type - the latest models can be installed under wall and ceiling cladding.

How to keep warm in the country shower

Insulation of the box with foam

Two materials are best suited as thermal insulation here - mineral wool(glass or stone (basalt), but not slag) and polystyrene (in extreme cases, extruded polystyrene foam, but it is much more expensive).

The process of laying such insulation is actually no different from installation in other rooms - all the same frame and fasteners that are most suitable for the material used.

But there is one very important nuance, which arises in connection with the specifics of the shower box - it is constantly humid there, therefore, the thermal insulation must be protected from water splashes.

Summer shower - the choice of an ideal and practical design (100 photos)

If you are doing installation from the side of the street, then this question disappears, as it were, by itself, but inside it is extremely important, otherwise you risk getting fungus and mold there.

Foil - excellent waterproofing

So, it is best to cover the insulation with an ordinary thick cellophane film, and then cover this entire structure with foil or any thin foil insulation, as shown in the photo above.

Here you immediately, as it were, "kill two birds with one stone" - protect the insulation from moisture penetration and create an infrared reflector.

The fact is that the foil has an excellent property - it reflects infrared rays, therefore, the overexpenditure of heat calories in boxing will be minimal.

Note. It is very important that you insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling, since according to the laws of physics, heated air rises and if there is poor thermal insulation, then warm air fade away very quickly.
The same applies to the waterproofing of the ceiling - the steam, rising up, will be reflected by the foil insulation.

Plumbing nuances

Since we are insulating the shower box on the street, it is quite natural that we will not make a drain (lattice) floor there, since from below it will cold air and all heating will be useless.

In such cases, of course, it is best to fill the floor with a concrete screed with insulation, which is most often used as an expanded clay pillow laid on a layer of sand.

That is, the screed is poured here according to all the rules - the soil is planned, then it is laid waterproofing film with a twist on the walls, then a layer of sand 2-3 cm is poured and after that - an expanded clay cushion, the thickness of which depends on the coldness of the soil, but not less than 4-5 cm.

Do not think that we have made a reservation about the waterproofing of the shower floor - the film is needed here not so that water does not get into the soil, but so that the pillow is dry - thereby reducing the thermal conductivity of materials.

You will need to mount a drain on the floor and take it to the general sewer, to a septic tank, or dig a cesspool nearby, only use it exclusively for soapy water.

But still, the best option would be a septic tank - you will not only not pollute the soil, but also will not dilute the unpleasant odors that stagnant water exudes.

Conclusion

You understand that building a wooden box is easy enough, but how to make it so that you can wash in it during the cold season is a completely different question.

So such a seemingly insignificant building in this case will turn out to be a capital object, but if you bring water underground, you can wash there at any time of the year.

Shower cabins are a popular type of bathrooms. Their choice is very wide and it is easy to find the right model. Shower cabins with heated water are especially convenient and practical.

How to make a summer shower in your home with your own hands

The installation of such equipment maximum comfort when making water processes. The functionality of these types of bathrooms is quite high.

A good option for organizing would be a shower room for giving, which has a heating element. When choosing such a plumbing installation, it is worth knowing some of its features.

How to choose

The modern choice of sanitary installations for the bathroom is very large, there are cabins with different functionality, design and price categories. It's hard to choose among all the versions correct option, but if you focus on some parameters, you can quickly find the optimal model.

First of all, you should pay attention to:

Material and dimensions of pallets, walls, necks;
functionality;
Construction quality;
Frame sizes.

It is very convenient to use equipment with heating water for an apartment in which a heating element is installed.

They are simply irreplaceable in cases of frequent shutdowns of hot water supply in residential buildings or in the country. These models are suitable for installation on wooden floors and alignment with the wardrobe.

Shower cabins and models for housing

The modern hot dessert cabin gives you a comfortable shower and a break from the city.

This design can have several options, such as a frame with a water tank and a heater. The capacity can be different, and the cabin can be supplemented with a miniature wardrobe, it has a wooden pallet. Manufacturers produce such products for the convenience of consumers, so choosing the right shower is very simple.

Such equipment can be installed in the house next to the wardrobe, because the frame and walls have good tightness. Thus, the wooden floor will not be damaged and will retain its appearance and properties. Water heating is carried out using a special element, and this requires electricity. Hot water shower equipment is completely safe and reliable when properly maintained. The heated water shower cabin for the apartment is the standard model combined with an electric heating element.

To make a pallet, you can use various materials, such as marble in expensive models or acrylic. Luxury designs finishes can be used in wooden decor and heating is very fast. So a large number of water can be heated much faster.

Different and sized shower enclosures for an apartment and therefore choosing the right model is easy.

The seat can be provided in the design, whether the mounting hole can only be present, and the seat itself asked.

The waterproofing of the shower cabin under the heating of the apartment is very good, the model is suitable for installation on a wooden floor, which has a hole for separation. The type of frame, its dimensions and the type of heating are selected individually.

Types of heating

Car shower VIMOIKA

Well, let's start with the most incredible - this, one might say, is a real know-how for human hygiene on vacation e.
We are talking about the VIMOIKA car shower, which you can use at almost any body of water, but, of course, if you have a car. This design works like a heat exchanger, but it needs to be built into the antifreeze line, with which the car interior is heated to the stove radiator, which in no way harms the functioning of the line and the antifreeze does not get into the water intended for the shower.

Scheme of connecting the unit to the heating main

For pumping water, a 12V pump is used here, which is connected to car battery, and the source can be a lake, a pond, a river, a well, or just a canister of water that you brought with you from home in advance.
If there are difficulties with the dense approach of the car to the reservoir, then you don’t have to be especially upset - the hose will be enough for you for 30 m in length, while the lifting height can be up to 8 meters!

VIMOIKA in action

To connect VIMOIKA, first of all, as required by the instructions, you need to unwind the hoses towards the reservoir to make sure that you have arrived at a sufficiently close distance.
Next, connect the connectors from the shower and supply hose according to the marking to the heat exchanger, and also connect the connector from the supply and intake hose to the pump, and lower the intake filter into the water. After that, open the tap on the watering can and connect the cable to the battery - after filling the hoses, water will flow from the shower - you can use it.

Note. In the cold season (spring, autumn), you can simply increase the engine speed by adjusting the thrust on the gas pedal - the water will heat up more intensively.

Just be sure to drain all fluid from the hoses after use before storing them.

country shower

Plastic tank with heating and thermostat

For country house and cottages, you can always use the so-called garden or country shower, where water is stored in a tank, only now it can be heated either from sunlight or from an electric heater installed inside the tank.

Such an energy storage device can be purchased at a store - they are produced with different volumes and different prices - but the price here depends not only on the size of the tank, but also on the material of manufacture - they can be either steel or plastic, as in the top photo.

Basically, the temperature of the liquid supplied here can be adjusted between 20⁰C and 80⁰C, and the volume can be from 90 to 200 liters.

Tubular electric heater - TEN

But you can save a lot on such units if you make a shower for a heated bath with your own hands - for this you will need a heating element and some kind of container - plastic or metal barrel, fuel tank or self-welded from steel sheets storage tank.

We will now tell you how you can do this at home using an electric drill with a crown cutter for inserting a heater and a simple electrician's tool (side cutters, pliers, etc.).

Pay attention to how the end of the tubular heater is arranged - this is shown in the upper image.

We will need to make a hole in the container along the diameter of the fitting (M), but so that it does not exceed the D value - this is the persistent part of the device that will fix the heater on the inside of the container.

As a rule, the length of the fitting (L) should be sufficient for any barrel, fuel tank or whatever we have welded from metal sheets.

Holes in a metal container for heating elements

If you will use plastic container, then you will not have problems with holes - they are very easy to make with an electric drill with a hole cutter or drill desired diameter- it is much more difficult to perform such work on metal tanks.

The fitting at the electric heater can be quite thick and you will not find a drill with the desired section, but there is a way out - you draw a circle of the desired diameter and pass along it with a 2-3 mm drill, after which you knock out or cut out the middle with a needle file.

Of course, such a hole will not be perfect (see photo above), but to give the edge a more or less clear outline, they should be processed with a semicircular file.

If the hole is uneven, you will avoid problems if on both sides (under the thrust part of the heater from the inside and under the nut from the outside) substitute metal washers with rubber or paronite seals.

In addition, a summer shower in a bath with heated water will be much better if you connect a thermostat or even a thermostat with the heater, but the second option is only possible if you have a heater unit installed.

Flow heaters

Electric instantaneous water heater EVAN EPVN-7,5

Almost any such self-contained instantaneous heater can be used for showering.

even if the booth is located on the street. The most important thing here is the power source, but it is quite simple to bring the electric cable from the house, you just need to follow the safety precautions.

Note.

Homemade summer garden shower in the country

Some users search the web for an electric heater such as a shower head for heating water, but such a device is installed only on taps. and you can connect a watering can there only by changing its design yourself.

Conclusion

Perhaps we have told you all the possible options with which you can get a hot water shower at home.

Of course, we did not mention boilers with various energy carriers, but this is already exclusively for indoor use.

More information

With the onset of the summer season, the owners of cottages and private houses are increasingly thinking about building a shower cabin on their site, since it is an indispensable part of personal use, especially for those who work in the beds. The owner may well make this structure on his own. To do this, it is enough to study the theory and gradually put it into practice. Let us consider in more detail what a country shower equipped with heating consists of.

The device and features of the summer shower

Summer shower for a summer residence

One of the simplest designs of a summer shower consists of a square or rectangular booth, the length of the sides in which is chosen taking into account the build of the people living in the country. If we talk about a water heater, then such cabins are common, the water in which is heated by the sun. The water tank itself is a plastic or metal container. A pipe is built into its bottom, to which a faucet and a shower head are attached. Opening the faucet allows water to flow out of the tank, providing enough pressure for comfortable bathing.

The outer surfaces of the tank of this design are painted with black paint, which allows it to more efficiently absorb the infrared radiation emitted by the celestial body. Usually by the afternoon the water becomes warm, and in the evening it is sometimes just hot.

There is a more advanced version of heating - a tank with a heating element built into it, connected to electricity.
There are also options for heating water with titans, and sometimes craftsmen mount a certain structure in which a blowtorch heats a coil with water flowing inside.

These are interesting, but not very effective methods of heating, although in the cold period you cannot do without them.

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Approximate drawing of the future design

It is also required to provide free space inside the cabin, sufficient so that at the moment of bathing it is possible to bend over without bumping into the walls with your elbows. The minimum dimensions of the room are 1 x 1 m. At the same time, you should think about where to store towels and personal belongings so that they do not get wet. For a "dressing room" an area of 0.5 m² is sufficient. In reality, the most comfortable design will be 1.4 x 1.9 m.

Tip: the small area of \u200b\u200bthe constructed shower room will subsequently cause its destruction. To ensure the stability of the structure, it is recommended to put the booth on a pile foundation.

Heating selection

It is possible to provide heating by purchasing an electric heater, but it is expensive, therefore unprofitable, because the country shower is used only periodically.

You can heat water with a blowtorch, while the pipes are required to be made of metal. Here is how such a design is mounted:

The pipe supplying water to the tank should be taken outside the perimeter of the shower room. Outside the booth, a shelf is fixed on the wall, on which a heat exchanger should be installed.
The last unit is made from a thin tube, twisted into a spiral, and then fixed in a casing. It is easy to make such a "serpentine" - it is enough to wind a thin one on a thick pipe. To get warm water, 4 turns are enough, but there will be a hot shower if you make at least 8 such turns.
Then take a large pot. Its size should allow the coil to fit, as well as a blowtorch.
The free ends of the "coil" must be connected to the water supply pipeline. If you make a connection on the couplings, then it can be removed for the winter.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a shower stall, you will need some tools:

a hammer;
roulette;
level;
corner;
bolts;
nails;
tank and pipes;
a pair of taps;
shovel;
shower head.

As well as the following materials:

boards;
slats;
brick;
plastic sheets;
a frame that will be more convenient to make from pipes;
cement and sand (to organize the foundation and lay out the brick);
insulation, plaster, any paint (for finishing).

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

The nuances of operating a country shower

It is important for a comfortable stay in the room to have enough heat in it in addition to water. To do this, it is better to organize the thermal insulation of walls and roofs.
It is a mistake to build thick walls with a door that closes tightly. As a result, poor ventilation will lead to the spread of mold.
If the water is heated by a heating element, you should remember the rules for safe electrical installation. Since the degree of humidity in the shower is increased, it is necessary to use plastic drains.

Building a summer shower is a very simple and short-lived business. Stock up on the necessary tools, choose the right material, and add a little imagination and patience to your desire.

grounde.ru

We create a warm shower in the country: we find out the technical points

Of course, before you start building, you will have to make drawings of a warm shower in the country with your own hands in order to calculate all the materials, and in addition, the technical capabilities with which you are going to endow this building.

Indeed, often heated water occurs in such buildings only in hot weather, that is, it is heated naturally, depending on weather conditions, but it can also be forced heating.

Country shower with heating

It is about this forced method of heating water, as well as about the insulation of the architectural structure itself, that we want to tell you, and also bring to your attention the video in this article.

Flow heater

The main problem for a shower that is separate from the house is hot or at least warm water - if this can be organized in a building from a common system, then autonomy is needed here. In this case, the most convenient option is a flow-through electric heater, because almost any country house is connected to the mains, therefore, the installation of such a device is a minor technical problem, where the safety instructions from electric shock must be followed.
Let's say right away that this is not some kind of super option - the device does not heat water to a very high temperature, especially if it is cold, but, given the very specifics of a country shower, warm water will be enough for you. In most cases, even if the price of the device is high, it will not heat water above 40 ⁰C, but you are unlikely to need more.
Another option is the supply of hot water from the house - the pipes are laid underground and insulated, but during transportation there are too large heat losses, and if this does not bother you, then this option is better than the first one.

Infrared wall heaters

Of course, in the summer you will not have a question about how to heat the shower stall - it will already be warm or even hot there, but in spring or autumn, when you plant a garden or harvest, in your soul it will most likely seem too chilly. But you can make such a box with heating, and here, infrared heaters are the best suited for heating, and there are good reasons for this.

Firstly, the IR panel will heat up a small room very quickly, since there is a special principle of giving off heat calories - the panel will not heat the air, but nearby objects, which will just become a source of heat.

Secondly, such devices can be installed in any place convenient for you - on the floor, on the ceiling and on the wall, and, thirdly, they can be easily turned off and removed. This very “third”, perhaps, is the dominant factor in favor of IR systems - they will not be stolen, since you will have the opportunity to bring them into the house for the winter, or even take them to the city.

Note. Infrared heaters come in not only different power, but also different configurations. That is, it can be a device in the form of a panel, but it can also be a film type - the latest models can be installed under wall and ceiling cladding.

How to keep warm in the country shower

Insulation of the box with foam

So, we need an insulated shower in the country, that is, given that our construction will be quite simple, most likely from boards or OSB, this will not be enough to keep the cold from the street inside. Two materials are best suited here as thermal insulation - mineral wool (glass or stone (basalt), but not slag) and polystyrene foam (in extreme cases, extruded polystyrene foam, but it is much more expensive).

The process of laying such insulation is actually no different from installation in other rooms - all the same frame and fasteners that are most suitable for the material used.

But there is one very important nuance here, which arises in connection with the specifics of the shower box - it is constantly humid there, therefore, thermal insulation must be protected from water splashes. If you are doing installation from the side of the street, then this question disappears, as it were, by itself, but inside it is extremely important, otherwise you risk getting fungus and mold there.

Foil - excellent waterproofing

So, it is best to cover the insulation with an ordinary thick cellophane film, and then cover this entire structure with foil or any thin foil insulation, as shown in the photo above. Here you immediately, as it were, "kill two birds with one stone" - protect the insulation from moisture penetration and create an infrared reflector.

The fact is that the foil has an excellent property - it reflects infrared rays, therefore, the overexpenditure of heat calories in boxing will be minimal.

Note. It is very important that you insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling, because according to the laws of physics, the heated air rises and if there is poor thermal insulation, then the warm air will evaporate very quickly. The same applies to the waterproofing of the ceiling - the steam, rising up, will be reflected by the foil insulation.

Plumbing nuances

Screed in the shower

Since we are insulating the shower box on the street, it is quite natural that we will not make a drain (lattice) floor there, since cold air will flow from below and all heating will be useless. In such cases, of course, it is best to fill the floor with a concrete screed with insulation, which is most often used as an expanded clay pillow laid on a layer of sand.

That is, the screed is poured here in accordance with all the rules - the soil is planned, then a waterproofing film is laid with a twist on the walls, then a layer of sand 2-3 cm is poured and after that - an expanded clay cushion, the thickness of which depends on the coldness of the soil, but not less than 4-5 cm.

Drain ladder

You will need to mount a drain on the floor and take it to the general sewer, to a septic tank, or dig a cesspool nearby, only use it exclusively for soapy water. But still, the best option would be a septic tank - you will not only not pollute the soil, but also will not dilute the unpleasant odors that stagnant water exudes.

Conclusion

You understand that building a wooden box is easy enough, but how to make it so that you can wash in it during the cold season is a completely different question. So such a seemingly insignificant building in this case will turn out to be a capital object, but if you bring water underground, you can wash there at any time of the year.

Page 2

Whatever you consider yourself a hardened person, taking a warm shower is much more pleasant. Get warm water in the country there are two ways - with the help of the sun or by installing a heating element in the tank. The first option may not be feasible if the rays were blocked by clouds all day, and it will also take a long time to fully warm up. In the second case, everything depends only on the supply of electricity.

Today we will look at which tanks are usually installed heaters, how to do it, and which ones can be used.

In the photo - a summer shower with a thermostat

Tip: to quickly obtain water of the required temperature, we recommend that you first heat a small amount in a container, and then dilute it with cold water.

Types of heating elements for a shower tank

In this case, the "wet" type models are used. This means that it must be in direct contact with water, otherwise the device will burn out.

Outdoor heating element for country shower

The abbreviation "TEN" means - "tubular electric heater", it can be of the following types:

Closed heater for shower tank

The design of the shower in the country does not always involve a capital structure. By by and large is it light metal wooden lattice with a water tank on top. Therefore, when calculating, attention should be paid to the supports that will support the tank.

Previously preferred metal options, although their weight is quite heavy, especially if the capacity is designed for 300 liters or more. Therefore, recently the bias in sales has nevertheless become in favor of plastic models, the mass of which most often can simply be ignored. Below we will consider these two types of reservoir.

Conventional heating element for a summer shower for constant contact with water

Metal

There are two types of such products:

From the usual carbon steel. These are most often flat rectangular products with a hole at the top for pouring water. Their price is small, they are strong and durable. The volume varies between 100-200 liters. Among the shortcomings should be noted the susceptibility to corrosion. In this case, there are two options - to protect the inside with enamel and to prevent the metal box from being idle for a long time without water.

Tip: even if sprayed onto the surface thin layer zinc, it must be painted to protect it and extend the life of the tank.

Galvanized containers can be different shapes and volume. Exemplary guarantee period their use is up to 10 years.

Metal container with heating for a shower in the country

The second type is stainless steel containers, the quality of which exceeds those indicated above. The boxes are not afraid of rust, so they do not need to be painted. A wall thickness of 1 mm is enough to hold the required volume of water. They are made in any shape, with or without a lid.

To install the selected heater, you will need to make a hole corresponding to the thread of the device with a drill. Install paronite or rubber gaskets on both sides, and then, on the inside of the tank, tighten the nut holding the product on the wall with a wrench.

Tip: connect electrical equipment to the network through a thermostat so that the device does not burn out during operation.

Plastic

Its advantage is a small mass, low cost and sufficient capacity. Most liked summer residents flat designs.

And this becomes clear after the start of their operation - the water warms up in them quickly and evenly, and installation is not difficult.

Lower installation of the heating element in the plastic shower tank

Tip: Flat plastic shower tanks can act as a shower enclosure roof.

Containers are made of special, usually food-grade, polyethylene.
It is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, durable and environmentally friendly. By the way, even if the water stays in it for quite a long time, it will not bloom, which can be attributed to another plus of the tanks.
Polyethylene is not subject to corrosion.
The capacity of the tanks can be different, but most often everyone uses volumes within 200 liters.
If you want to install a heating element in the structure, we recommend purchasing products in the form of round barrels.
There are also shower containers made of polymer elastic fabric. In addition to their direct purpose, they can be used for drip irrigation. It resembles a “pillow” tank with a filling and drain part. There is also a special cover that prevents stagnation of water.

Virtually anyone can install a heating element in a plastic tank with their own hands. The process is no different from how it was done with a metal container.

How to make a heated shower

Pros and cons of a heated tank

Below we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the advantages and disadvantages of the designs:

Independence from weather conditions.
Possibility to control the temperature of the water with the help of a temperature sensor.
Heating is rather slow. Thermal insulation will speed up the process, but will not allow sunlight to heat the container.
The instruction requires that there is always water in the tank so that the heater does not burn out. It is necessary to install a special device for this.
It is necessary to bring electrical communications.
The heater can fail over time, and its cost will not always be cheap.
Preferably - main water supply.
Danger of electric shock.

Conclusion

If you want to not depend on the sun and always have water at the right temperature in the shower, then you should consider installing a heater in the shower tank. It can be of two types, but it performs the same tasks. Installing a heater in a container is not difficult. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find Additional information on the above topic.

Page 3

You can remove water from the floor where the place for washing is located using various devices - these are shower drain grates (ladders) made of plastic and steel, as well as plumbing siphons with and without a valve. In addition, wastewater needs to be diverted somewhere and somehow, for which cesspools, septic tanks or public sewerage are used - all this requires a fairly large amount of work and financial costs.

But such an installation is quite possible on our own and we will tell you more about it, and also, we will provide you with a video in this article.

Plastic shower drain

Long grated shower drain

To begin with, let's define what a ladder is and what it serves for. This is a drain device that is mounted flush with the floor or slightly lower, through which wastewater enters the sewer system - the hole is protected from above by a grate. In general, you can find shower drains made of stainless steel, cast iron and plastic, although the latter are the most common - they have a fairly low price and a huge operational resource, because such material practically does not wear out.
When installing such systems, it is very important that it is possible to drain through the sewer pipes, while maintaining the proper slope, which sometimes causes severe difficulties. It is for this reason that the ladders are almost never used in the bathrooms of multi-storey buildings, since the design design of the premises does not allow running a pipe into the floor with a slope, as required by the instructions.

Ordinary drain siphon for a shower cabin

In shower stalls with a tray, it is much easier to solve the issue of the slope of the sewer pipes, since the tray is 10-15 cm above the floor and this is usually enough to withstand the angle of the drain system. In this regard, for cabins, as a rule, plumbing siphons are used, which in their design are very similar to a ladder, only they have a much smaller drain hole. Just like the drain, the siphon has a blind loop in which water is constantly collected and due to this, the smell from the sewer does not enter the room.

Siphon with bottom valve

If you have a bottom or drain valve for a shower cabin, which means that its tray is deep enough and can be used as a trough or a small bathtub for soaking clothes and even for bathing children. Such a device allows you to block the neck of the siphon, keeping the water in the tank, but if necessary, using the simplest mechanism with a steel cable, you can easily open it and the water will go down the drain. Of course, the cost of such a device for draining water is much higher than usual, but they are satisfied with it, especially for young mothers and housewives in general.

Note. In suburban areas where there is no sewerage system, you can make a slatted floor and equip a shower drain tray made of concrete or even boards, along which water will drain into a cesspool.

When the sewer passes above the floor, it is much easier to observe the slope

Whatever the sewerage, but for it it is imperative to observe a slope of 10-15 mm per 1 running meter, but given the fact that only clean or soapy water can drain from the shower, the angle of the gasket can be increased here.

These 10-15 mm per meter are extremely important for solid waste and feces - with a smaller slope, the flow intensity will not be enough to wash everything off the pipe, and if the angle is made larger, then the water will simply flow and will not have time to carry away solid formations. But the piping always gets somewhere and it can be a public sewer riser in an apartment, a septic tank or a shower drain in the country.

Note. If you do not have the opportunity to make a slope for distributing the sewerage from the shower, then you can use a drain pump for the shower cabin. Such units are used as additional circulation pumps for heating systems, but you will definitely need to put a filter at the inlet.

Schematic diagram of a septic tank device

Of course, the cesspool suburban area- this is a fairly simple quick solution to the problem of draining wastewater from a shower, but, as we said above, it is better to use a septic tank for this purpose - wastewater will not deteriorate in this artificial reservoir and there will be no unpleasant odors on your site.

To make such a structure, you can go in two ways - buy a system in a store (it consists of two or three containers) or make such a device with your own hands, which will be much cheaper.

Homemade septic tank from concrete rings

Setting up a septic tank is pretty easy. But for this you will need concrete rings, as in the photo above - they are usually used for mounting wells. The system lies in the fact that the entrance of the sewer pipe to each of the wells is slightly higher than the exit, which contributes to the natural filtration of water.

Tablets for a septic tank

It turns out that in the first well, the heaviest particles fall to the bottom, in the second, those that managed to slip through the first trap fall out - this is facilitated by turbulence, and only in the third well do you make a filter of fine gravel and sand through which water goes into the ground.

If you want the wastewater to be as clean as possible, you can purchase septic tank tablets - throw them into the last tank at the dosage indicated on the package.

Conclusion

You can see that the easiest way to equip a drain from a shower is in a multi-storey building, bringing it to the sewer riser. Private sector does not present such opportunities, therefore, in order to keep the site clean, you will have to make some efforts.

hydroguru.com

Do-it-yourself shower in the country: summer and winter options

Most summer residents think about creating a shower in the country with their own hands.

Firstly, it is an opportunity to improve comfortable conditions without high costs.

Secondly, a properly equipped outdoor garden shower allows you to meet the necessary sanitary needs, as it is suitable for use at any time of the year.

And besides, crafts for its decoration make any garden plot.

Design features

Modification of the shower cabin depends on the duration and conditions of its operation.

If the shower will be used exclusively in the summer, then a simple quick-mounted structure, such as a shower rack, a camp shower or a toptun, is sufficient.

You can install a simple camping summer shower with your own hands in a fairly short time.

If long-term operation is planned, including in the cold season, then it is necessary that the design of the craft shower be reliable and provide for the possibility of installing equipment for heating not only water, but also air in the cabin.

It is more difficult to install a winter shower in the country with your own hands, since its design needs a frame and a foundation.

Regardless of the modification suburban option The structure includes the following:

base or foundation;
drain ladder or drain;
pallet and floor;
cabin;
holder-diffuser and stop valves;
pipeline;
devices for pumping and heating water, as well as for heating the cab.

As a material for such crafts as a country shower room without a foundation, film or plastic is used.

For booths installed on the foundation, it is preferable to choose more durable materials - wood or brick. A good option- do-it-yourself polycarbonate shower.

The most famous modifications of the shower craft used in summer cottages:

Toptun - mat with pump and hose. The water supply is provided by pressing the feet on the mat;
Camping - a compact portable plastic container equipped with a hose and nozzle. It can be stationary, mobile;
Circular. The circular option provides water supply from all sides;
Alekseev. Provides hydromassage by supplying water under high pressure;
Tropical. The flow of water entering through a special grate looks like a tropical downpour.

Making a circular shower with your own hands is quite difficult, but the result of this work will please any summer resident.

Toptun - the most popular shower among summer residents

Simple craft designs for shower devices intended for summer use are considered optimal solution issue of dacha hygiene.

After all, installing the same circular or tropical shower is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. That is why, choosing which shower to make in the country with their own hands, summer residents most often stop at a trample.

To build a toptun shower with your own hands, you will need a car pump, two corrugated hose, capacity with a cover, a shower head nozzle. You don't even need a holder.

The sequence of operation of the toptun:

Water of the required temperature is drawn into the container. Considering that the volume of the container is small, a do-it-yourself shower tray, if it is a toptun, is not needed;
Crafts are attached to the lid - a wooden or rubber cork equipped with holes and tubes, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the hoses;
The container is covered with a lid with attached hoses - one from a car pump, the second - a shower head holder. Under the pressure of air from the pump, water enters the hose. The watering can is held in the hand or attached to any surface.

By the same principle, you can make a camping summer shower. This will require rubber mat or pedals equipped with built-in valves, as well as two hoses.

As a container for water, an ordinary bucket is used, covered with a lid, in the hole of which the inlet hose-holder of the watering can is fixed.

As in the first option, the pallet is not required, and the earth replaces the drain drain.

The water supply to the hiking version is carried out by alternately pressing the pedals with your feet.

Each step provides one serving of water. As a rule, the marching method saves water and is used in conditions with limited access to water resources.

Also, a camping outdoor shower can be used to wash a car.

A circular shower can be considered as another option for a country house, but in this case, the actions listed above will not be enough. You will need a special holder for it.

How to expand functionality?

The functional purpose of a shower room, even in summer cottages, should not be limited solely to hygienic considerations.

For many gardeners own bath- This is an important part of the suburban area.

But not everyone knows that country rain shower with your own hands in the bath can fully replace many of the procedures offered by spa salons.

In practice, the available functionality of the shower room is the result of the choice of its type.

That is, in order for the built country shower in the bath to live up to expectations, you need to learn more about its functionality and installation steps.

In the minds of most people, a bathhouse is associated with a healthy lifestyle, and visiting it is considered a preventive measure.

Therefore, the famous shower of Alekseev will come in handy in the bath.

Alekseev's shower is a new generation design, an analogue of the well-known Charcot's shower with hydromassage properties.

But Alekseev's shower, an invention of the Russian doctor of the same name, is equipped differently and has no analogues in the world in terms of the effectiveness of the impact.

The use of a device created according to the Alekseev method provides healing through massage and is recommended for many diseases.

To independently install Alekseev's shower in the bath, you need to understand how it works.

The unique difference of the device is the high-speed streams formed using the special design of the holes in the nozzle for the watering can.

If you make such a nozzle yourself, then installing Alekseev's device in your own bath is not difficult.

To do this, it is necessary to drill cone-shaped holes in the nozzle for the watering can - wide on the side of the water flow and tapering towards the outlet.

Then the craft nozzles are installed on the holder. The holder must be chosen carefully.

Considering that Alekseev's device gives a strong flow of water, care must be taken to ensure that the ladder provides its full drain, or use a pallet.

At the same time, Alekseev's shower can be operated not only in a summer cottage, but also in an apartment.

Features of self-installation of various types

The functions of the device used in summer cottages can be expanded if you use the non-standard capabilities of its structural varieties.

For example, a circular shower, along with hygiene, will also provide a healing effect.

According to the principle of the device, the circular type of shower is a few systemically located pipes equipped with small holes and a faucet.

In the center is a holder with the main watering can. With the help of a tap, the water supply pressure is regulated.

Thus, the circular shower additionally provides a comprehensive hydromassage of the body.

You can install such a device yourself both in the country and in the apartment.

To create an original shower craft, it is necessary to connect several pipes equipped with small holes in series with the central riser, on which the mixer holder is located.

In shape, the circular type of shower resembles the back of a chair with transverse or longitudinal crossbars.

Then you should take care of the flow of water - the ladder will cope with this task. The owner of the cottage has the right to decide whether he needs a pallet in this case, or a ladder will do just fine.

An excellent alternative to a regular shower can be a rain shower. This is a device whose water flows mimic a tropical downpour.

Functionally, the tropical shower type is a hydromassage device.

However, not every apartment has the opportunity to install a rain shower, but if such a design is installed in the garden, the impression of authenticity will be complete.

It is not difficult to build a rain shower in the country on your own. To do this, it is enough to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe watering can of the mixer and strengthen its holder.

A ladder will help control the discharge of a powerful stream of water, which distinguishes a rain shower. It is also convenient to use a deep pan.

But you need to remember that both the holder, and the ladder, and the watering can must be of high quality.

Construction stages

To build a summer shower with your own hands, you need to know the basic rules of the process:

Preparation - determine the dimensions and draw a diagram;
Choosing a location - a sunny place on a hill, which is not too far from the house and the water supply, but with the possibility of arranging a drainage system if a drain is provided in the shower equipment, or drain pit if a pallet is installed;
Construction of the foundation - level the site equal to the size of the building, then fill it with concrete;
Installation of the frame - piles are installed and fixed at the corners of the site, then they are tied up, constructing the shower floor. The racks of the frame are fixed with self-tapping screws. Build walls and roof;
Summing up communications - installation of a tank, equipment for draining, lighting and ventilation;
Mount pipes and a pallet - it is necessary to drain water. Sometimes they do not use a pallet, but the floor in which the ladder is mounted big size. The best option drain systems - a ladder with a lock and a grate. The shower drain performs the function of a sewer, but may have a different throughput;
Waterproofing, wall cladding. For operation in the cold season, the walls need to be insulated;
decorative design shower cubicle. beautiful crafts increase the aesthetic appeal of the entire suburban area.

If the weight of the structure is small, then a foundation is not required for its installation. For example, metal carcass for a polycarbonate booth, they are installed on fittings driven into the ground.

In addition, it is physically easier to build a do-it-yourself polycarbonate shower than a brick one.

A properly built base will allow you to upgrade your shower room in the future and enjoy its new possibilities endlessly.

stoydiz.ru

Layout and materials for the construction of a country shower with heating

Dacha is the dream of almost any resident of the metropolis. Many townspeople enjoy spending part of their holidays and weekends at the dacha. They are happy to work in the garden, the garden, the arrangement of the dacha itself: this is how they are distracted from the noisy city bustle. After a hot day at work in the country, I want to take water procedures. It is good if the site is located near rivers, reservoirs. The rest have to build their own shower cubicle on the site, equipping it with heating and a locker room. How to do it yourself, we will talk in this material.

The choice of materials for a country shower

A country shower with heating and a dressing room is not so difficult to build. But how great it is to swim after a hard day in comfortable conditions. It's worth it to spend a little time and effort, and for your own convenience. At the same time, it is absolutely not necessary to spend a large amount of money on the construction and equipment of the structure.

For a summer shower, you can choose practical and not the most expensive materials. First, cement mortar is required. It is better to install more massive structures on a flood foundation; for light models, you can choose a pile option.

When choosing materials, you should be guided by the features of the work. For a small foundation pit, a shovel, which is available in every house, is enough for pouring the foundation. For pile structures, narrow but deep pits will be required, which are dug using special electric or pneumatic tools.

Choosing suitable material, take into account not only its cost, but also the characteristics and requirements for preparation and care (impregnation with protective agents, the need for timely ventilation, etc.).

What material to build a summer shower:

brickwork- This is not the cheapest option, but the most durable of all. If you still have a brick from building a house, then choose this option. Such a shower with a dressing room and heating will stand for a long time;

brick building

you can often find wooden shower buildings in the country. Natural wood is eco-friendly, looks spectacular against the backdrop of nature and has quite acceptable strength. But here it is important to remember: to ensure the durability of the building, it is necessary to provide high-quality ventilation of the shower cabin. For this purpose, during construction, wide gaps are specially left in the floor and walls. The disadvantage of this option is that in windy weather or when it gets cold, it will blow from these slots. In addition, it is necessary to treat the wood with a fire retardant (flame retardant) to protect it from fire, because the building is equipped with heating devices (electric or fuel);
modern version- garden shower with changing room and heating made of polycarbonate. This material has a lot of advantages: with a small weight of the sheets, their cellular structure provides high strength. In addition, polycarbonate does not change its properties under the influence of natural factors. Ease of cutting and installation are also convincing arguments in favor of this material. Thanks to the mass of pluses, it is quite convenient to work with polycarbonate even for those who first took this material in their hands;
an outdoor shower is quite often built from plywood. This material is inferior in strength to the boards, but it is also much cheaper. Plywood also needs to be treated to resist fire, moisture, and rot;
slate with a straight surface can also be used to build a country shower. It is more difficult to work with it when cutting material, but it has strength and durability, is not afraid of moisture, therefore it is quite suitable for building a shower cabin;
sheet plastic- moisture-resistant material that allows you to build a summer country shower with heating and a locker room on your own in the shortest possible time. Varieties are commercially available with different characteristics. When choosing, you should pay attention to strength, possible temperature range, lack of toxicity, including the release of harmful substances when heated;

Plastic shower

it is also possible to use corrugated board or siding.

All sheet materials are used as frame sheathing. The frame itself can be made from wooden beams, metal pipes or profile. The upper flooring, on which the water tank will be placed, deserves special attention. It must rest securely on the vertical parts of the frame and have sufficient strength to support the weight to the brim of the filled tank.

Heated tank types

The tank, that is, the water tank, is selected based on how many people will use the shower. If few people come to the dacha, then there is no need for a large tank. The compact tank is easy to install, weighs a little, so it heats the water faster. For washing 1-2 people this is enough.

There are several types of tanks for giving, depending on the material of their manufacture:

carbon metal. This material is quickly covered with rust, so its surface must be enamelled. Its disadvantage is that with the slightest damage, corrosion develops over time, and leaks form. Such a tank is not at all the best choice;

Carbon steel tank

stainless steel. This material is not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, but it has another disadvantage - a lot of weight, which makes it necessary to build a more durable frame.
galvanized steel. The coating lasts longer than black steel, but is also short-lived.
plastic. Nowadays, country showers are increasingly made of plastic. Its basis is food polyethylene. Light weight, different colors, fast heating - all these are the advantages of plastic tanks for a country shower.

Heating

There are two ways to equip a shower with heating:

use solar energy;
apply a heating element - heating element.

For a summer residence, which is visited mainly in hot weather, an option with natural heating is suitable. To increase the effectiveness of the sun's exposure to the water tank, choose a black container.

Artificial heating is carried out by such a device as a heating element. This accessory is sold separately, so you can equip the shower yourself with it. At the same time, you can purchase a ready-made container with a heating element already installed. Its advantage is in the quality of the installation, as well as the ability to purchase a tank with a thermostat.

Tank with heating element

You yourself set the temperature to which the water will warm up. Mount two containers on the roof, one of which will be with a heating element, and the second without heating device. So by mixing water, you can use your wooden or polycarbonate shower any time of the year.

Construction project

First you need to choose a place where the shower will be installed. It is best to put it on the edge of the site in a well-lit place on a small hill. The optimal height is 2-3 meters.

Construction project

The space that the cabin itself will occupy must be at least 100x100 cm. Together with its dressing room standard sizes may be 160x100 cm or a little more.

Having decided on the place, you can begin to develop the project. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is better to put your idea on paper first. This makes it easier to identify bottlenecks and calculate the amount of materials needed.

Construction features

The process of building a summer shower begins with the preparation of frame details. It is better to build from pine board. You will need:

4 horizontal frame parts (20x90x664 mm);
Vertical jumper (20x90-664 mm);
2 lattice boards (15x90x700 mm);
7 planks (15x90x700mm);
4 vertical parts (20x40x1820 mm);
4 links (transverse) (20x40x1820 mm);
hose support (20x40x160 mm);
8 fixing strips (20x40x660 mm).

It is also necessary to prepare the following details for the construction of the shower:

shower head (with external thread) with mounting plate;
connecting element with internal thread;
couplings for connecting a shower to a watering hose (4 pcs.);
shut-off valve;
clamps (6 pcs.);
loops 25x180 mm (4 pcs.);
wood glue;
long bolts, nuts, screws.

Construction must begin with installation support pillars. Then the frame is assembled separately and mounted on supports. It is recommended to use long bolts as frame fasteners, since the structure must withstand the load from a filled water tank.

Floor device

The floor can be made of boards, fitting them to each other not very tightly so that the water leaves the booth through the cracks. But the disadvantage of this option is that cold air will flow from under the floor. It is better to use a ready-made shower tray. A hose is connected to the drain hole, through which water will be discharged to a place intended for draining.

Foundation laying

Space demarcation

The shower half can be separated from the dressing room with a polyethylene curtain. The second option is to install a partition made of moisture-resistant plywood or polycarbonate between these rooms.

Wall cladding and door installation

It is not necessary to install a door from the locker room to the shower - it is enough to hang a curtain made of waterproof material. However, if you have laid a wooden floor, then it is better to build a high threshold between the shower room and the dressing room.

outer door should close tightly. However, a well-fitted door can swell with moisture, and then it will jam. To prevent this from happening, a gap must be provided between the door frame and the door, which will be blocked by a sealant attached along the contour door leaf or frames.

The frame can be sheathed with polycarbonate. The shower cabin will be bright enough. You can also sew up the walls with siding or upholster with clapboard, but then you have to arrange artificial lighting.

Electricity supply

To connect the heating elements to the mains, it is better to call an electrician who will select the desired wire section and do everything necessary to ensure safe operation device. An inexperienced person should not undertake this part of the work.

Electricity supply

As you can see, building a summer shower with a dressing room and heating is not so difficult task if there is a desire and an opportunity to make such a shower with your own hands. For this you need:

Decide on the model of the soul;
Choose a method of heating water and materials;
Find a suitable place for installation on the site;
Build a shower, taking into account all the rules listed above in the article.

Video

An example of creating a warm shower for a summer residence, see the video

Conclusion

Using this shower is easy and convenient. They can be used in the off-season, and with a strong desire - in the winter, just need to be insulated. All in your hands.

ABOUT HOW TO ARRANGE A WARM SHOWER CABIN AND WITH HOT WATER ON THE COUNTRY PLOT, SPEAK UP BY THE EXPERIENCED SUCHMAN ALEXANDER TURKOVSKY.

A light shower with a tank heated by the sun was almost always in our garden. But even in better times she remained cold and windy. Therefore, I have long intended to improve it so that you can wash even in cool weather. To do this, it was necessary to insulate the cabin, adjust its heating and provide hot water. I didn’t want to use electricity for this purpose - it turned out to be a little expensive, and I was frightened by frequent failures and power surges in the power grid.

WOOD-BURNING COLUMN

The clue, as is often the case, came from the neighbors. They used a wood-burning column, which, while the water was heating, had time to warm up a small shower. I decided to arrange the same shower for myself, equipping an old hozblok, where there was an old shower room. At the same time, it was necessary to meet the size of 135 x 110 cm. The wood-burning column was bought several years ago and was waiting for its turn. Especially for her, he made a pressure water supply from a well.

Friends gave away a shower tray that didn't fit in their building. With great difficulty, we managed to arrange this economy in a cramped booth. Moreover, it was necessary to connect a normal siphon to the pallet and provide a drain to the outside.

Design and drawing of a warm shower in the country

CABIN INSULATION

Rolled polyethylene foam (PPE), cached with foil, is well suited as a heater. I was specifically looking for a PPE variant with foil closed lavsan film, since unprotected foil is easily damaged by mechanical stress.

Work began with the repair of the roof, as the old roofing material was already leaking. Replaced it with three sheets of ondulin. Three, because there is also a toilet under the same roof. Outside, the “plumbing plant * sheathed with old plywood, which added rigidity to the structure, gave additional thermal insulation and made it less ventilated, because the old walls were sheathed with scraps of slabs. Painted plywood. Above the doors of the toilet and shower room, I attached rain hoods (from old roofing iron).

I decided to make hydro and thermal insulation throughout the cabin area, including the floor. At the top of the cabin, I made a support for attaching the PPE, strengthening additional slats, leveled the floor and added a plinth for smooth bending of the insulation.

For fixing the insulation sheet, I used construction stapler with 12 mm staples. I felt the wall through the insulation and fastened it where the support was. I started from the ceiling, then covered the floor and finally - the walls. I didn’t fix the sheet on the floor in order to avoid unnecessary holes in the wet zone, I attached it only to the walls, wrapping the sheet with a trough.

The door was sheathed so that the insulation sheet occupied the entire area visible from the inside. And then, along the perimeter of the opening, at its end, I attached strips of insulation to seal the porch. The finishing effect immediately made itself felt: in cold weather If you close the door behind you, you immediately feel warm. The upper part of the wall, through which the exit of the chimney was planned, I have not yet sheathed.

COLUMN INSTALLATION

I had to rack my brains on how to put a pallet and a column on such a floor. I used a sheet of flat slate 8 mm thick, but I did not dare to simply put a wood-burning column on it, since three legs with a small footprint under the weight of the structure filled with water could crush the sheet on the floor.

A piece of flat iron 5 mm thick was found on the farm. From it, I sawed out the desired square with a grinder, painted it in two layers with “Rust-stop”, put a piece of polyethylene foam under it and put an iron column on it. As expected, it turned out to be unstable, therefore, so that the column would not stagger, the neck of the pipe was fixed with wire braces to the walls.

INSTALLATION OF THE CHIMNEY

I bought a stainless steel pipe of a suitable diameter for a column at the nearest stove store. I took two straight cut-cabins 0.5 and 1.0 m), three turns by 90 °, as well as a “fungus” on the pipe. After assembling the two turns inside, it became clear where the pipe should pass through the wall. The passage was made from slats and old roofing iron, paving the contact patch with sheet asbestos. From the inside, I attached PPE to the previously not sheathed place of the wall, and plywood trimmings from the outside. Collected the last outer turn, pipe 1 m and fungus. I didn’t attach the pipe to the shower room - practice has shown that friction is quite enough to resist the wind (sometimes it can be corrected), and for the winter I remove the pipe, leaving only the “fungus”.

The chimney inside the shower room is too close to the ceiling, so thermal insulation is needed. I wrapped the pipe with sheet asbestos: moistened it with water for plasticity and fastened it with wire. You can’t leave open asbestos, so I wrapped the pipe on top with another aluminum foil tape.

SUPPLY WATER TO THE SHOWER CABIN

Before installing the pallet, I installed a water supply. I used a PVC hose with clamps and a thick rubber gasket. Input made through back wall by making a hole in it right size circular cutter.

Waterproofing equipment for draining through the door.

ORGANIZE THE DRAIN

Before installing the pallet, it was necessary to mount the siphon. Strange thing: I thought that since there are a lot of pallets on sale, there must be a lot of siphons for them. But I found a suitable design with great difficulty, bypassing in turn almost all the plumbing stores in the area.

When I mounted the siphon, it turned out that it was lower than the floor in height - I had to make stands for the legs of the pallet from an antiseptic board. Also searched for a long time corrugated pipe the right diameter for the drain equipment. He brought this pipe out from behind the booth (he made the hole with a circular cutter), and led it into the nearest raspberry bush.

HEAT SHIELD

Filling the column with water, I conducted a test firebox. First of all, I was interested in the effectiveness of the thermal insulation of the chimney inside the shower room. In the end, I decided to make a screen between the pipe and the ceiling. To do this, I screwed a slate plate to the ceiling, using old porcelain rollers from electrical wiring to form a gap.

SCREEN FOR WATER

I made a curtain rod from an old hula hoop, cut off the excess part, and attached it to the wall with screws. In the corners I screwed on the old soap dishes that had accumulated in the household, attached hooks for clothes and towels. It is inconvenient for me to wash while standing, so I bought a compact one. plastic stool. It can also be used while baking.

On a bathing day, I connect the hose from the well to the inlet hose, open all the inlet taps and turn on the stove.

ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF A SHOWER CABIN IN THE COTTAGE

Operation showed the advantages and disadvantages of this bath. The advantages include cost-effectiveness, since usually one armful of firewood is enough to heat both water and the room itself. To control the heating of water, I adapted a thermometer, isolating it from the room air with pieces of PPE.

The downside was splashing water from the shower towards the column.

I have not been able to come up with a good shield or apron for insulation yet. Another disadvantage is that the drain hole from the column turned out to be inconveniently located. It was not possible to adapt the hose, so all the water is drained onto the floor. To ensure the drain, I had to slightly tilt the cab and adjust the position of the pan for guaranteed water flow. This alteration came in handy in the fall, when I had to drain the water from the column. In addition, the drain through the sump siphon was weak, which led to blockages. I had to buy a plunger and put it in the shower room.

The third drawback was the lack of a dressing room where you can undress or dress after you wash and cool down. It is difficult to cool down in a bathhouse - it is hot and humid here, it is more difficult to dry quickly. But even here there was a way out - a curtain with an open door.

I saw a circle with sandpaper on your grinder, my advice, move this circle to a 1 kW drill, the revolutions are less and safer, and the sandpaper lasts longer. And then it was torn off from me by revolutions, I almost lost my eyes, it flies very painfully like an edge.
And why was it spent on lining? if you sewed up siding ?, you could take a budget edged board, or CSS plywood.
With a grinder, I "blurred" only the lower beam - there were very rough and large burrs on the surface on it.
I do finer grinding-polishing with a drill. I don’t remember the brand of the device (friends gave me a drill), but my drill is small in size and light, 1.5 kW. I hang a handle on it under the grip of the second hand - and work. The bench in the shower was processed with a drill, calm, unhurried turns, sandpaper grit - 180.
On the grinder with a photo - sandpaper grit 36.
As for the flights of sandpaper and other "grinding gifts" - I always work in PPE. When grinding wood or cutting stone, slate - a respirator and glasses, when cutting metal - a turner's shield. If there is no respirator, then I put on at least a banal bandanna in the style of cowboys of the Wild West. Headgear and work gloves are a must. The rest of the clothes - according to the situation and the weather. In the heat, I can get by with a long apron. This is from flying sandpaper.
In general, the "volatility" of sandpaper is highly dependent on the sandpaper itself and the state of the "Velcro" fastening. I buy already proven sandpaper and Velcro. Not the most expensive, but not the cheapest either. IMHO, it's better that way than to treat bruises, scars, burns later.
As for the wagon...
Do not believe it, but at the time of the purchase of building materials, in the vicinity of the dacha, in all construction yards-construction stores, lining and other decent boards licked like a cow with her tongue. There was nothing! No imitation timber, no blockhouse, no ordinary lining, no eurolining, and even classes A and B!
I miraculously took the LAST (!) packs of lining from a distant construction base. By the way, I spit on the quality. I DO NOT recommend the Vyatka eurolining of class C. The knots are knocked out almost everywhere, the ridges and grooves on the boards are demolished, and some boards are sawn so that they crack in half even in a pack.
But, nevertheless, due to the shortage of building materials, it was necessary to make an ENTIRE shower from eurolining. Although the original project did not provide for this.
However, I have already said: the building is located in the farthest, northern corner of the site. And in winter there is a lot of snow. And this snow melts for a very long time. So, a lining covered with siding, treated with "neomid", inspires a little more confidence ...
There are women in Russian villages..., the wolves probably ate the men... Respect and respect.
I want to add on my own, I have been using a similar structure for 4 years now, my wife, child and I am over the head, you can look in the subject:.
From the improvements I can advise:
1. homemade mixer from ball valves, increases the flow of water, otherwise the regular one is made under pressure.
2. Laying the line from the pump, water supply, etc. in a barrel (so as not to jump on the roofs)
3. Installing a water level sensor, for example, buy a fishing circle in a fishing store, it is made of dense foam, screw a thin rigid rod to it just above the barrel, I have an antenna from a CB radio, (road trophy) and bring it out through the guide tube by attaching markers. Another option transported over the side of the barrel on a cord roller with 2 counterweights, from the inside on the water, the load in the vitamin jar is heavier

Thank you for the kind words..
And THANK YOU SO MUCH for the level sensor idea!
As for the water pressure, the regular one seemed quite acceptable to me ..
But the laying of the highway is impossible due to the criminogenic situation. Simply put, they will steal the pump from the well. Together with the supply hoses and the well itself. ALAS!
So - let there be a platform for servicing the barrel. After all, you can arrange a solarium and a platform for observing the moon on it!

Categories

Popular