Pouring a concrete blind area around a private house. Step-by-step instructions for building a blind area with your own hands How to make a concrete blind area with a screw

After the construction of the foundation and the completion of the main construction, it remains milestone finishing the base of the house - installation of the blind area. As a rule, this stage is not delayed for months and years, since the absence of such important element can lead to gradual destruction of the foundation. In this article, we will figure out how to properly make a blind area around the house in order to protect its foundation from destruction.

The foundation blind area is a strip of concrete or other material located around the perimeter of the house with a slight slope from the basement. The main purpose of this design is the removal of rain and melt water from the foundation, its insulation and reinforcement, as well as partial compensation of soil movements. The structure of the blind area also includes drainage.

As a rule, ordinary concrete is used for its construction, but a blind area lined with paving slabs or porcelain stoneware will give the area around the house an aesthetically complete look.

Most often under country houses poured reinforced tape of concrete, on which the load-bearing and internal walls. Since concrete is a porous material, it actively absorbs water. This is fraught with unpleasant consequences - the appearance of a fungus on the basement and the loss of frost resistance of the foundation due to constant cycles of freezing and thawing.

If during the construction of the foundation have not been carried out or the materials have worn out over time, the plinth is waterproofed in front of the blind area. Sometimes this requires digging it to its full height: a shallow foundation - within half a meter, a deep foundation - below the soil freezing line (in middle lane more than one and a half meters).

If the basement of the building is exploitable, in addition to waterproofing it is desirable . At a high level ground water Foundation drainage is required. To do this, perforated pipes are laid in a ditch prepared for waterproofing the base and making a blind area with a slope towards the sewer.

Before proceeding to consider the types of blind areas, let's talk about the basic rules for the installation of such structures. Recommended building regulations the width of the blind area is at least 20 centimeters from the projection eaves overhang to the ground. On average, the width is selected within 1 meter. The slope of the blind area from the base is up to 10 degrees, this is quite enough to divert water from the foundation and for ease of walking.

The method of arranging the strip depends on the terrain, climatic conditions, the specifics of the soil, the type of foundation, the stylistic design of the house and landscape design. In total there are about 20 varieties. Consider the main types of blind area.

Blind area of ​​crushed stone or gravel

Such a blind area has an advantage in price and ease of construction, but loses in terms of performance and service life. This option is designed for an average of 7 years of operation. The blind area of ​​crushed stone is not able to provide enough level foundation insulation and acceptable drainage. In addition, it is inconvenient to move on such a surface. The only advantages of crushed stone blind areas are only ease of installation and low cost.

The following is the procedure for arranging a gravel blind area:


Concrete pavement

A concrete blind area is more complicated than a gravel or crushed stone base, but it is the most durable and performs its functions better. The concrete base completely removes all water from the basement of the foundation, but has the only drawback that, with strong mechanical influences concrete can crumble and wear out.

The following describes the procedure for pouring a blind area from concrete:


From the above instructions, it can be seen that the concrete blind area pie consists, in the general case, of a layer of sand cushion, a layer of insulation and a layer reinforced concrete. The thickness of such a blind area is at least 25-30 centimeters. This is enough to prevent freezing of the foundation.

Visually, the process of installing a blind area made of concrete is shown in the video:

Blind area from paving slabs

Despite the fact that the blind area made of concrete will cost less than installation of tiles, paving slabs have a much more attractive appearance while maintaining high wear resistance.

When building such a blind area, there are two options. In the first case, a concrete tape is mounted as a pillow for laying tiles. The sequence of actions in this case is the same as when installing a conventional concrete blind area. On the final stage tiles are laid as a finishing coating. This method is excellent in all respects, except for labor intensity and price.

In the second case, a sand and gravel cushion is used as a base for such a blind area. We will analyze this method further.


After installing the blind area from paving slabs it remains only to fill the seam between the tiles. For this you can use ordinary sand or fill the joints with cement mortar.

After laying for several days, it is undesirable to apply heavy loads to the blind area. This is necessary for the final uniform shrinkage of all layers of the blind area and to give it strength.

For better understanding, we offer you a video with step by step installation paving slabs around the house

Strips of materials such as crushed stone, stone, paving slabs are perfect for columnar foundations, for example for . Such a blind area will remove most of the moisture from the piles and will not require a large construction budget.

The blind area, arranged around the foundation of the house, protects it and the soil adjacent to it from moisture penetration and premature destruction. Water flowing from the roof of the house erodes the top layer of soil and seeps to the base of the foundation. This leads to its drawdown, and in the end can lead to the destruction of the house. For a warning similar phenomenon the correct blind area should be installed around the perimeter of the house.

Installing a blind area significantly reduces the depth of soil freezing under the house and reduces its heat loss in winter time of the year.

However, in order to fulfill this requirement building codes you need to know how to properly fill the blind area.

The main purpose of the blind area

To, first of all, you need to select its width. Since it should protect the base of the house from moisture, it is better to have a larger width. As a rule, her minimum width taken from 80 cm and at least it should protrude by about 20 cm beyond the roof eaves.

In addition to the function of protecting the basement of the house, the blind area is often used as a footpath located around the perimeter of the house. Therefore, it is better to make its optimal width from 1 to 2 m. With its help, the basement of the house receives additional decorative ornament and a sense of architectural completeness of the building.

Second important condition- she needs to make such an inclination that it ensures the flow of water away from the walls of the house. The slope angle should be about three degrees. The generally accepted slope is taken to be approximately 15 mm per 1 m of width. Such a slope ensures good runoff of water and is practically invisible when walking.

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How is the blind area arranged?

You will need the following materials:

  • sand and fine gravel to create the underlying layer;
  • reinforcement with a diameter of about 8 mm, a mesh with a mesh size of approximately 30x30 cm is made from it. The reinforcement rods are fastened together with a knitting wire.
  • boards with a thickness of 22 mm, to create formwork.

Technologically, the blind area is performed on a pillow of two layers of dissimilar material:

The first layer is a sealing pad. Its main function is to create a dense, even layer under the main coating. The material used for it is clay, fine gravel and sand. This layer is laid at least 20 cm thick.

The second layer is the coating. It is designed to be waterproof and must be resistant to water penetration. Surface material: concrete, asphalt, fine gravel or compacted clay. Its thickness can be about 10 cm.

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The procedure for constructing a blind area

To properly fill the blind area, you need to perform work in the following sequence:

  1. First of all, it is correct to mark up for the future blind area, while choosing the required width.
  2. It is necessary to remove the soil within the established width around the entire perimeter of the foundation. As a rule, the soil is selected to a depth of about 25 cm. Then the entire surface of the cleared site is rammed.
  3. A formwork made of boards 22 mm thick is installed around the entire perimeter, which is carefully strengthened.
  4. Clay is laid on the surface of the compacted soil with a layer of about 5 cm. The clay layer is leveled and carefully compacted.
  5. Sand is laid on a compacted layer of clay. The thickness of the sand layer is about 10 cm. The sand layer must be leveled and carefully compacted. For compaction to be effective, the sand must be shed with water during the ramming process. Very carefully, the sand must be compacted against the walls of the foundation.
  6. Fine crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, with a layer about 8 cm thick. The crushed stone is also carefully rammed.
  7. To strengthen the blind area, it is reinforced with reinforcement about 8 mm thick in increments of about 15 cm.
  8. In the process of pouring the blind area with concrete, it is required to arrange expansion joints across the blind area with a step of about 2 m at the corners. Expansion joints prevent the blind area from breaking in winter. To organize the seams, wooden slats with a thickness of about 20 mm are used. The slats are installed flush with the concrete surface, observing the slope angle. Before installation, they must be impregnated with an antiseptic, or bituminous mastic.
  9. The blind area from the walls of the foundation should be separated expansion joint. It prevents the destruction of the basement and preserves the blind area in case of subsidence of the soil during its heaving and thermal expansion of the soil. When similar situations the blind area will simply fall along the prepared seam without damaging the walls of the foundation. The seam is made about 2 cm wide. Then it should be filled with fine gravel, sand, sealant, bitumen or a strip of roofing material folded in half. However, it is best to fill it with a strip of polyethylene foam. This strip should be about a quarter of the width of the seam.
  10. After completing the preparatory work, we lay and compact the concrete solution. We make alignment concrete base. When leveling the surface, the compensation rails should be used as beacons.
  11. After leveling the surface, we carry out its ironing, it will give maximum strength and moisture resistance to the surface of the blind area.
  12. For the final hardening of the blind area, its surface must be periodically moistened with water and covered with a cloth or film.
  13. After about two weeks, the blind area gains design strength, the fabric is removed and

Reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from exposure surface water- the device of a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a blind area made of concrete is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection against moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with an integral coating, is not able to guarantee any material (without arranging a multi-tiered "pie"). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs capital protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and basement of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished look.


Consider step by step how to properly make a blind area around the house of concrete with your own hands. We propose to break down all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

  • In the first part, we will analyze what you need to know and prepare before getting started.
  • In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and the rules for its construction

  • concrete pavement width, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than an overhang roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and plays the role of a path around the house;
  • length. Since the foundation needs protection around the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely encircle the structure. An exception may be only the installation site of the concrete porch;
  • depth or level of deepening of the blind area should not exceed half of estimated depth soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or requested information in the architecture department at the location of the object.

    The ability of a concrete pavement to move along with the soil informs it of its function. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to water drainage, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

    Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the soil.

  • concrete pavement thickness. Justified is the minimum thickness of the surface layer of 70-100 mm. If an increased operational load is planned, for example, the movement of a car, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;
  • blind area slope. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on local rainfall and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken equal to 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;
  • border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the owner of the house and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that differ in a powerful surface root system (poplar, plane tree), then the installation of a limiter is mandatory;
  • plinth height. The standards establish a minimum base height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft one. Recall that the blind area around the house made of concrete is of a rigid type;
  • deck height from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area is 50 mm above the ground. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, the destruction of the structure.
  • concrete deck construction has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation.

How to make a blind area of ​​concrete around the house

Material preparation:

  • blind area concrete. The brand is an indicator of the quality of concrete, its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class is in the range from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. So, class B 15, indicates that the cube concrete pouring 15x15x15 cm in size is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, cement brand M 200 (class B15) is used.

The parameters (properties) of concrete, depending on the grade, are shown in the table.

  • sand. What is needed? For the device of the lower layer of the pillow, river or quarry sand is suitable. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;
  • rubble (gravel). For the blind area, crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable;
  • clay or geotextile for a hydraulic lock. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;
  • iron cement.

The composition of the concrete solution for the blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can knead it yourself. For this you need to prepare:

  • pavement cement. You should know that the brand of concrete is determined by the brand of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. Cement must be fresh, with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It is easy to check the freshness, just squeeze a little cement in your fist, if it shrinks into a lump - its expiration date is running out, if it crumbles freely - you can work with it;

Note. What kind of cement is best for the blind area? Naturally fresh and high brand. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete mortar.

  • sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take sifted and washed from impurities and soil;
  • rubble. It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;
  • water. Should be at room temperature;
  • additives. Needed in order to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Often used as an additive liquid glass.

From the tools you will need a concrete mixer or a container for mixing, a shovel, a bucket (it is better to take a plastic one, it is easier to wash), a measuring container (for water), a manual tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete solution for the blind area

In practice, the blind area solution is prepared in portions, after all preparatory work. We will give a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

The proportions of the solution for the blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for obtaining concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because. brings cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the fortress is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W / C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution is also important. Cement is first poured into a mixing tank or concrete mixer and water is poured. By mixing, the so-called cement milk is obtained. Then the rest of the components are added to it. First, sand is poured, in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between the supply of components. Thus, the mixture is better mixed.

The technology of the blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparation of the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. The use of a continuous herbicide will eliminate the activity under the substrate. For example, drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Given that the blind area should exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

markup. To do this, we pull the rope over the stakes clogged in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Masters install additional beacons (stretch the rope) on the basement of the house. Fastening is made through 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay greasy clay with a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing material, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that the film does not tear, it is better to pour a layer of sand 50-100 mm into the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured over the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and rammed. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, its tension should be avoided. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Masters advise to make high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with rubble or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with rubble. This will increase the rate of water removal.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude translates into the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of rubble. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and rammed. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grate for laying it, which is used in landscape design for the device. gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without special need.

Sand filling.

Laying pipes of communications. To do this, a recess is made in the sand for pipes and storm water inlets.

Blind area insulation. Styrofoam or polystyrene foam is laid on the compacted sand, with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but he is afraid point loads, so it must be placed on sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying the insulation in two layers with an offset.

Reinforcement of concrete pavement. It is carried out by laying a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or knitting a reinforcing cage.

Advice. The chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not expected, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the rubble to a height of 20-30 mm. That will contribute to a better distribution of concrete.

Formwork device. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to the level. In order to level the bursting force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. When installing, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that internal seams were invisible.

The device of expansion joints. To do this, we install wooden slats, boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally at the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are set according to the level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because. when pouring concrete, they are guided by them. As an alternative to wood, Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 rubles / m) or a hydro-swellable elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A / B, can be used.

How to close the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints after the first winter had cracks. Many people think that wood swells and lets moisture through. The resulting cracks can be sealed with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles / piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles / piece).

Pouring concrete pavement. When pouring concrete, care must be taken to ensure that no air pockets form, and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that tubercles and depressions do not appear during pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to make the entire blind area at a time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring the blind area, you can apply a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayonet. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the mortar fills the entire space.

How to pour a concrete blind area around the house - video

Protection of the concrete blind area from destruction

Many are interested in how to cover the concrete pavement around the house. After all, in without fail after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, exposure to moisture, rain, snow. Consider how and what is the best way to do it.

Ways to protect the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation:

Ironing of the concrete pavement around the house

How to iron the blind area with your own hands?

  • Dry method of ironing - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement sets with concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand water.
  • Wet method of ironing - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete dries), you need to walk along the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1: 1) with the addition of lime dough (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Covering the blind area with a primer

Primers are suitable for this deep penetration, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles). Priming solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, laying tiles or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZH-11 (195 rubles / 5 l). Concrete hardeners are gaining popularity, such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles / 5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles / 10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles / 20 l) or Ashford Formula ($ 120 / 10 l).

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget option protective composition(primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a ratio (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

Enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. The polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself excellently.

Facing the blind area with tiles, stone

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or a natural stone. In this case, concrete acts as a binder solution.

  • near the blind area, it is desirable to install a storm drain, which will drain the flowing water and prevent silting of the site;
  • to ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with a film. So, evaporated moisture will linger on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with a film, it can be moistened periodically. The time to complete solidification with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;
  • after the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. Here you should be careful, because. removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This procedure for performing work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees a long-term full-fledged functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete pavement repair around the house

To the most common problems applies to:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to fix cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of damage (crevices, crevices, concrete breaks):

  • no more than 1 mm. "Self-healing" is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed from friction during walking;
  • no more than 3 mm. Assumes the use of "cement test". Shallow cracks can be repaired (filled) liquid solution cement (1 part cement to 1 part water);
  • 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant of the type mentioned above TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can repair the crack with a freshly prepared concrete solution. However, before that, the crack needs to be widened. In cross section, it should resemble a cone. Apply a primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles / 10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, special solution based on cement that hardens in 15 minutes. As an example, putty Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel (410 rubles 5kg)
  • crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a split in concrete and refers to significant damage. It is eliminated only by expansion with the subsequent pouring of new concrete.

Stratification of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of the masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (stratification). Several factors may be responsible for this phenomenon. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour a concrete solution on a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make greater thickness blind areas. Increased air content in the concrete mix. Exceeding parts of crushed stone in the composition of concrete.

What to do if the concrete pavement crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with a “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached a significant scale, then you need to take drastic measures:

  1. determine the boundaries of damage to prevent its spread;
  2. cut down part of the concrete;
  3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
  4. apply a new layer of mortar;
  5. cover with foil until completely dry.

If you start, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alteration and reconstruction.

The cost of work on the device of a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to the masters, then the estimate should contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data at the end of 2015)

Service - work on the blind area of ​​a private house Doing the work yourself The cost of the master's work per sq.m.
Material price We do not take into account, because cost will be the same
Removal of the old blind area (dismantling) 0 65
Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm.) 0 300
Clay water lock device 0 100
Laying foil or geotextile 0 40
Backfilling of the sand layer + rammer (5 mm.) 0 80
Formation of crushed stone layer (100 mm) 0 80
Installation of a storm water inlet 0 250
Pipe laying (per meter) 0 50
Concrete blind area device (ready-made concrete) 0 300
Concrete pavement device (concrete mixing) 0 650
Total Saving About 1200-1400 rubles

At the same time, keep in mind that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the manufacture of a concrete blind area for 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, a good incentive to make a blind area of ​​concrete with your own hands. Moreover, from the above instructions it is clear that this work does not require special tool, some special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

If there is a desire, almost any construction works can be done on your own. Of course, some specific operations have to be trusted to professionals, but it’s really possible to fill the blind area on your own.

The blind area is necessary element site arrangement, it is made around the house along the perimeter and performs several functions at once.

Functions

  • Protects the foundation from washing out. Even the drainage system is not able to prevent the destruction of the soil layer. In addition, constantly soaking into the soil, moisture will make cold and wet ground floor or basement. And in winter, due to different expansion coefficients, the earth presses on the foundation, gradually destroying it.
  • Protects plinth and walls from dirt. Rain, falling tangentially to the ground, creates a whole fountain of dirty splashes and sends them straight to the walls. Okay, if it’s an ordinary brick, you can wash it with a hose, and if it’s expensive, finishing or decorative plaster. A bark beetle clogged with mud is almost impossible to wash, only repaint after each time.
  • decorates. The beauty of masonry or finishing material like nothing will emphasize a smooth line of the blind area. But the earth, no matter how rammed, such an effect cannot be achieved.

Device

It is layered in its own way, it consists of several mandatory levels.

  • Waterproofing(roofing material, polypropylene), if a drainage system is provided.
  • Pillow(alternating sand and gravel).
  • fittings- today, instead of wire and metal cuttings, geotextile bags are used, but they increase the cost of the process. Therefore, the bulk of private traders choose fittings in the old fashioned way.
  • fill- the cheapest and easiest option, concrete mix, however, far from being the most decorative.
  • decorative- the path around the house looks interesting from wild stone, paving stones, tiles, clinker or paving slabs and similar facing materials.

That is, whatever the decorative layer, for the blind area you will need sand, crushed stone and cement, as the basis of the structure. And how to decorate and whether to spend time and money on it, everyone decides for himself.

How to make a solution

The stronger the adhesion of the mortar to the base, the stronger the blind area will be, and in order to achieve this effect, high-strength cement is used, not lower than the four hundredth grade, and even better, take the five hundredth.

  • The composition of the concrete pour: cement, sand, crushed stone, in a ratio of 1/3 (three parts of crushed stone and sand per part of cement).
  • Consistency: the solution is diluted with water, to the density of homemade sour cream, the mass should be plastic, but not float along the existing slope.
  • Additives: for increase performance characteristics it is worth adding frost-resistant chemistry to the solution, it is sold in specialized stores. Quantity and rules of introduction to concrete mass usually indicated by manufacturers on the packaging. To give plasticity, part of the water can be replaced with a weak primer solution.

On the video - how to make a solution for the blind area around the house:

Walkthrough

Although the process is not particularly difficult, especially if you have an idea about wet work, a certain technology is observed during its implementation. A properly arranged blind area will last for years, and will not crack after a couple of seasons

Dimensions

The wider the flooded path, the more convenient it will be to move freely along it, and the farther from the foundation the moisture will penetrate into the ground. Specific dimensions depend on several factors.

  • Width– it does not make sense to pour less than 80 cm from the wall, optimal size- 100, since the path should be at least 20 cm wider than the ledge of the roof. Of course, I would like to save materials, and excavation not the easiest, but it’s better to do it once every tens of years than to redo it regularly.
  • Depth- if you're wondering quality coating, then it is not enough to remove the top layer and remove the roots. It is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of 20 - 25 cm around the perimeter. The path will rise another 10 centimeters above the surface, depending on the presence or absence of a decorative layer. This is taken into account when choosing boards for formwork.
  • bias- so that the water does not stagnate, but flows freely, the blind area is made under a slope. An angle of up to 10⁰ is enough, otherwise it will be problematic to walk. You can make a slope both at the stage of backfilling the pillow, and at the time of pouring the solution.

foundation pit

The lower layers must be immersed in the ground, then the entire fill will turn out to be monolithic and will not “play” due to temperature changes. The boundaries of the pit are indicated by a string stretched on pegs so that it is even, they use a construction or hydraulic level, they also check the bottom. After removing the earth layer, the surface is compacted. Formwork boards are installed, the more often the fixing stakes are placed, the smoother the casting will be.

Pillow

A layer of sand (10 cm) is poured on top of the insulation and is also carefully rammed, a layer of crushed stone (5 - 7 cm) is leveled on top. If the sand is dry, it should be slightly moistened with a spray gun or a hose with a divider nozzle.

reinforcement

If there is no option to get road nets, reinforcement is made with a special mesh with a cell of 10 cm, some prefer metal cutting. Reinforcement is laid on top of the rubble, completely covering it without gaps, an overlap is made at the junctions. This will help contain the stretch in all directions without cracking.

Expansion (deformation, temperature) seams

When the soil settles, the blind area, one way or another, will be torn off from the base or pulled out along with its pieces. To avoid this, two methods are used.

  • Seam between coatings. Most often performed expansion joint- a distance of about 1 - 1.5 cm from the wall is covered with sand, roofing material is laid on top in several layers, bitumen or sealant is poured.
  • Binding seam. By means of a perforator, a longitudinal strobe is hollowed out in the wall, 3–5 cm wide. Additionally, grooves are drilled at regular intervals, where reinforcing bars, long nails, and wire are driven.
  • Rail installation. Concrete tends to break across, with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter. To avoid this, transverse seams are made at regular intervals in the blind area; thin slats are used for them, which coincide in height with the top layer, taking into account the slope. They are also placed in the corners.

fill

If earlier a shovel and improvised assistants were used to mix the mortar, since not everyone can afford a concrete mixer, today a perforator helps out. powerful model and a large, durable mixer and the problem of a well-prepared mixture is solved. The installed rails will serve when pouring instead of beacons, it will be convenient to level the surface along them. The solution is poured in portions and leveled, checking the level.

If concrete is the final layer, the wet mortar is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a trowel. Such "iron", as masons call it, not only gives a vintage strength, but also creates a smooth, shiny surface. Even ordinary cement will look interesting.

How to make insulation

The insulated blind area prevents freezing of the soil and protects the basement and basement. It differs from the usual one in the following ways. The blind area with insulation is often combined with the insulation of the facade, including the basement.

  • drainage system- since a heater will be used, stagnation of water and wetting of the coating are unacceptable, drainage is necessarily done to remove precipitation. The easiest way to make it is plastic pipes for sewers in which perforation is done. The diameter of the breakdown must be at least a millimeter. A trench up to a meter deep is being dug along the perimeter, its bottom should have a noticeable slope towards drain pits or pits in order to avoid stagnation. Pipes are wrapped with geotextile before laying, a layer of crushed stone or coarse river sand is poured onto the bottom of the ditch. The laid pipes are covered with crushed stone, rammed, and a layer of soil is poured on top, rammed, leveled.
  • Geotextile- it is laid on the bottom of the pit under the formwork, you can also use roofing material or film, do not allow joints, only overlap. Geotextiles are also used when laying paving slabs.
  • Pillow- performed, as in the case of a concrete blind area.
  • insulation- expanded polystyrene, foam plastic, polystyrene. Any of tile materials laid on a pillow, the joints are sealed with sealant. Above is a layer of sand (5 cm), a layer of rubble (5 cm).
  • fittings- metal grid.
  • fill- concrete solution for the blind area as in the first version, only without crushed stone and the layer is thinner, since the insulation must be lined.
  • Facing- the selected material is laid on the mortar or tile adhesive after the pour has solidified.

On the video - how to make an insulated blind area around the house:

Price

How much does it cost to make a blind area around a country house or any other house? Since we do the work ourselves, namely, it adds about half to the amount of costs, hard-earned money will go only to materials. Depending on the raw materials used and the dimensions of the blind area, on average, its square meter it will cost 400, 500 rubles. If we are talking about insulation, drainage, insulation and insulation will throw at least a third more.

Many neglect the blind area, preferring to get by with gutters, but this is a direct path to the destruction of the foundation and the freezing of the basement. Filling the blind area with your own hands is quite realistic, and the investment will definitely be justified.

The blind area around the house is a special design that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, the blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level groundwater, which can undermine the foundation. Let us consider in more detail how the do-it-yourself blind area is performed, as well as what options for its implementation are most effective.

In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design functions. Very often it is used as a track, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area, you should also consider landscape design and house exterior. Correct blind area around the house helps to emphasize favorably architectural style buildings, make adjoining territory more accurate and practical.

Filling the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made even after graduation. finishing works. If this point is neglected, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will also decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the building.

Paving around the house

Before starting the construction of the blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, etc. are used for these purposes. reinforced concrete slabs or tiles. The correct blind area around the house should have at least two layers. Upper layer contains the main coating, and the lower one is a pillow of sand, fine gravel, carving or clay.

Ideally, the blind area around the house should be done simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the eaves. The wider the blind area, the faster the water is drained. In this case, one should remember about the slope, which should be 3 - 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made around the perimeter of the blind area. This will prevent stagnant water heavy rain or during the melting of snow masses.

How to make a blind area with your own hands

Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:

  1. Foundation preparation.

Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and cultivating the earth with herbicides. It is necessary to install restrictive boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of rubble or brick battle is poured.

  1. Waterproofing and insulation.

Insulation of the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or basement. Polystyrene foam, foam glass or foam plastic can act as a heater. The air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing felt.

  1. Installation of temperature cuts.

Temperature transects can be performed using storm trays or flat slate. Between the wall and the blind area, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.

  1. Pouring concrete.

Concrete for the blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. Cement is better to take brand M-300. Filling is carried out carefully within the bounding boards.

  1. Ironing.

After 15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture resistant.


The blind area around the house can be made from concrete slabs. As in the first option, a foundation is prepared for this, after which they lay out finished slabs, and bitumen is poured. Also recently, profiled membranes have become increasingly popular, which are placed immediately on the ground, covered with crushed stone, sand, after which any coating is installed.

Alternative blind area at home

The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If earlier this type of blind area was the most affordable, then in our time there is a wide variety building materials, heaters and waterproofing films, through which the cost of the blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Consider a few alternatives do-it-yourself installation of a blind area.

Soft blind area for difficult soils

Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area device, which can be used for heaving soils. It is carried out in several stages.


Blind area with rubemast

Rubemast is inexpensive waterproofing material made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bituminous impregnation. With the help of rubemast, you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to the following action plan:


Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds

Installation of a blind area from geotextiles is carried out in several stages:


Building a blind area in Finnish

This type of blind area is widely used in construction. Finnish houses. It is fundamentally different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:

  1. Fits around the perimeter of the house corrugated pipe with holes.
  2. Gravel is poured over the pipe, foam plastic is overlapped and covered with soil.
  3. Next, the pipe is connected to the drain wells.
  4. At a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building, crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured.

The variant of the Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents the foundation from freezing.

Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful

This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is carried out using glass bottles in several stages:

  1. On a small sand cushion is poured thin layer concrete.
  2. Next are the usual glass bottles and the next layer of concrete is poured.
  3. After that, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer of concrete blind area is poured. If necessary, the surface is ironed, i. sprinkled with dry cement.

The advantage of this technique is the absence expansion joints and low consumption of concrete. In addition, the bottles are left air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.

In general, there are quite a few options for the execution of the blind area around the house. If desired, it can be performed different heights, decorate with natural or artificial stone, tiles, covered with pebbles or gravel.

Video blind area device

It is popularly told about formwork devices and pouring the blind area.