How to fix a plastic faucet. How to repair a water faucet with your own hands?

Very popular in modern bathrooms. They are durable, easy to repair, have stylish design and low cost. How to disassemble and repair a single-lever faucet in the event of a leak is shown in detail in the videos presented.

The device of single-lever mixers

Single-lever faucets are a relatively young development in the field of plumbing that has gained trust and popularity among consumers. Such cranes are also called "one-handed" or "single-grip". In operation, they are very simple: the temperature and water pressure are controlled with one hand. Understanding the features of the mixer device will help you easily cope with its disassembly and repair. Elements of a single-lever mixer:

• control lever (handle);
• jet regulator (spout);
• frame;

Single lever mixer device

• retainer (fastening);
• ceramic cartridge or ball mechanism;
• silicone or rubber gaskets;
• circular nut;
• flexible hoses for water supply.

According to the internal arrangement, single-lever mixers can be:

In what cases is it possible to repair the mixer

Not all breakdowns of the mixer can be eliminated with the help of repair. Cartridge replacement or other repair is carried out in case of the following breakdowns:

• the cartridge is leaking;
• when turned on at full power, ball mixer issues weak pressure water;
• when turned on, water is simultaneously supplied to the spout and shower;
• button switch failure.

More serious breakdowns are extremely rare, but require the replacement of the entire mixer.

cartridge mixer

We disassemble the mixer

Almost everyone can disassemble and repair a leaking single-grip mixer. This does not require professional tools.

Attention! Before disassembling a single-lever mixer, it is necessary to block the access of water to it.

For repairs you will need:

• screwdriver or knife;
• hex wrench of a suitable size;
• pliers.

Tools needed to repair a faucet

Procedure

• Use a screwdriver (or a knife) to remove the plugs on the lever, indicating the direction of the handle for supplying hot and cold water.
• Loosen the screw and remove the handle.
• Carefully unscrew the ceramic and ring nut from the housing. This is done with a key or manually.
• Remove the cartridge from the case.

Advice. The presence of recesses in the nut obliges it to be dismantled with special care, otherwise the spare parts can be damaged without the possibility of correcting the defect.

The entire procedure for disassembling the mixer takes an average of 10 minutes and is within the power of everyone.

Spin the faucet carefully so as not to damage the faucet surface.

We eliminate the leak

The cause of the flow of single-lever mixers is often failed cartridges. This happens due to abrasive particles of debris getting into the interdisk space. In this case, the cartridge must be replaced.

When choosing a replacement element, it is worth considering that the holes in the cartridge can be of different diameters (3 or 4 cm). Also, cartridges may differ in latches on the bottom plate. Replacement cartridges with silicone seals are recommended as they are more durable when exposed to water.

Advice. Disassemble the faucet and remove the cartridge from it before going to the store. The presence of an old cartridge will help "not to miss" with the purchase of a replacement.

After installing a new cartridge in the body, the mixer is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.

We spin the crane - in stages

Faucet/Shower switch leak

Often the problem is due to wear of the internal oil seal. To fix the problem, it (the oil seal) must be replaced. Troubleshooting procedure:

1. The handle must be in the closed position.
2. Remove the flexible shower hose.
3. Using pliers, remove the switch button from the faucet.
4. Using a rod or screwdriver, unscrew the adapter from the spout.
5. Replace worn o-ring.

Removing the shower/faucet switch

Advice. In order to avoid damage to the chrome-plated surface of the mixer, all work is best done through a dense soft cloth.

Troubleshooting ball single lever mixer

Ball mixers durable, but if a breakdown occurs, they cannot be repaired and require replacement. You can eliminate with your own hands only a weak flow of water dispensed and leaks associated with wear of the sealing rubber bands. It is difficult to call a “trouble” with a weak jet a breakdown - the mixer still functions. The reason is a clogged aerator.

Blockage removal procedure

1. Remove the aerator from the mixer spout.
2. Rinse thoroughly under running water in the direction opposite to the water supply.
3. Install the aerator by securing it with the clamp nut.

How to replace rubber seals

Scheme: device of a ball single-lever mixer

1. Remove the handle.
2. Remove the plastic shield two-piece. The black part is a seal that needs to be cleaned or replaced.
3. If the leak persists, remove the ball mechanism.
4. Replace bottom seal.
5. Replace the ball and secure the seals with the plastic nut.
6. Install the handle and check the operation of the mixer.

Advice. When replacing rubber seals additionally use silicone grease, so the tightness will be higher.

Troubleshooting the Bath/Shower Switch

The single-lever bath faucet has a switch that controls the flow of water to the bath and shower. Possible problems:

• water is simultaneously supplied to the bath and shower. The reason is the uselessness of the spool gaskets.
• non-return to the starting position of the switch button. The reason is the wear of the switch rod spring.

Replacing the spool seal rings is somewhat difficult, and the main problem is that replacement gaskets are not commercially available. A spare set usually comes with the faucet. If the spare wheel is lost, you can independently cut out the gaskets from dense (3-4 mm thick) rubber. Homemade gaskets can temporarily solve the problem, but they will not last long.

Repair of a faucet with a shower head

The design of the switch includes two gaskets - above and below the spool. If the cause of the leak lies only in the top gasket, repairs can be made without disassembling the switch. It is enough to remove the decorative cap and carefully pull out the worn sealing gum. Also carefully install a new gasket. If the problem persists, you will have to disassemble spool switch and replace the bottom rubber.

The procedure for replacing the sealing rubber bands of the spool:

1. Check that the mixer lever is in the closed position.
2. Detach the shower screen flexible hose.
3. Remove the decorative cap, unscrew the screw fastening and remove the switch button.
4. Carefully remove the spool from the mixer body.
5. Notice the sealing gum by additionally lubricating them with hermetic paste.
6. Assemble and install switch in reverse order.

Replacing rubber seals

Advice. Moisten the new seals with water to make the spool slide into place easily.

Switch Spring Replacement

The non-return of the button to the start position can be corrected by replacing the stretched spring in the switch. Procedure:

1. Remove the adapter as above.
2. Remove the coiled spring.
3. Remove the old spring.
4. Using pliers, screw the new spring onto the stem. The spring must be made of steel with electroplated, and slightly smaller in diameter than the previous one.
5. Assemble and install the switch.

switch spring

Preventive actions

Faucet repair can not always solve malfunction problems. In many cases, and always at the wrong time, the faucet must be replaced. To extend as long as possible longer term operation of the mixer without repair, experts recommend taking preventive measures and responsibly approaching the choice of product.

Faucet leaks that are not corrected in time can cause serious trouble. It is not difficult to disassemble and repair the mixer with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the device of the crane and have at hand necessary tools and spare parts.

Do-it-yourself single-lever faucet repair: video

Single lever mixer: photo

When it becomes necessary to urgent repair ball valve, many (even experienced craftsmen) are lost. This is due to the fact that the design of the ball valve is significantly different from the usual.

With an ordinary faucet, everything is quite simple - unscrew a couple of nuts, replace the gasket or faucet box, tighten the nuts, check - it’s not leaking! But a ball valve can make you sweat seriously, especially if you take up repairing it “on the spur of the moment”, without proper preparation.

So let's say you have ball valve repair of which you need to make yourself, while - in a short time.

This situation is quite common, because, along with ease of use (excellent and very accurate adjustment of pressure and water temperature), it also has a number of disadvantages: if a number of factors coincide, which we will discuss below, ball mixers either start to flow, or simply stop providing adjustment temperature by mixing hot water with cold water in an arbitrary ratio.

Ball valve design

Before repairing a ball valve, you must familiarize yourself with general scheme his designs.

Ball valves are produced by many plumbing manufacturers, but their structure is unchanged:

• At the core of the mixer is a hollow ball made of of stainless steel. Water is mixed in the cavity of the ball: hot and cold water, and water of the required temperature comes out of the outlet.
• The ball itself is mounted in a special sleeve - a cartridge. To fix the ball in the cartridge, special rubber seats are equipped that securely fix the ball under water pressure.

Problems with the operation of the ball mixer

What are the most common problems in using a ball mixer?

If you do not take into account situations where the mixer has obvious mechanical damage (a crack on the body) or there is a problem with water supply in general (for example, a tap is leaking rusty water), the most common problems are:

Namely:

• Faucet water leaks
• Weakening of pressure (provided that the pressure in the water supply system has not changed)
• Problems with temperature regulation (water is very hot or very cold)

The most common is a blockage in the space between the rubber seats in the cartridge and the ball. A microscopic mote, falling into the gap, can break the tightness of the connection, and over time - deform the rubber seat.

The pressure can be adjusted by changing the position of the rod that connects the ball to the lever. By “playing” with the rod, you can set the position of the supply pipes in relation to the holes in the ball, which provides the required water pressure in the mixer.

Also, pressure problems may be due to the fact that the shutter is partially clogged. In this case, the problem is solved by removing the aerator, cleaning it and returning it to its previous position. To avoid blockages in the future, it can be recommended to install water filters in the supply pipes - they will trap solid particles that clog the mixer.

Faucet repair step by step

So, what should be done when the question arose of how to repair a faucet in the kitchen?

Repair of a ball mixer is carried out in a sequence that should not be changed.

How accurately and efficiently these recommendations will be implemented will determine how successful the repair will be, and will it be necessary to replace the crane on the riser (and this is an additional cost of time and money) in case of failure?

The ball mixer repair procedure includes the following operations:

• Close all shutoff valves(for cold and hot water) to prevent water leakage. We drain the remaining water from the tap.
• The screw holding the mixer lever in place is loosened by unscrewing it with a hex wrench. We remove the lever part of the mixer, pulling it up with simultaneous loosening. If the faucet has been in use for a long time, some effort may be required at this stage. However, be careful - the strength of the bodies and handles of inexpensive mixers leaves much to be desired.
• Removing the lever part, we get access to the threaded connection. Using a screwdriver, turn it clockwise - for this you need to press the recesses, dosing the force.

Note! In this case, you need to be very careful not to damage the water hoses when turning the tap.

• Using pliers, remove the dome of the crane, remove the plastic part located under the dome.
• , then most likely the problem is in the condition of the seal on the plastic part. The seal may be either worn out (which is most likely) or partially covered with lime deposits - this happens if too hard water is used in the system. If deposits are found, we remove them with non-abrasive cleaning agents, trying not to damage the seal.
• Removing the ball from the attachment point. If the ball is damaged or deformed, it will need to be replaced.
• Next - dismantling the seals, whose main purpose is to fix the ball. Spring seals can be easily removed using a flat-blade screwdriver. We replace old seals with new ones when they show the first signs of wear. In the same way, it is recommended to replace the springs - over time, they lose their elasticity and cease to cope with the high-quality fixation of the ball.
• New seals installed in the mixer body must be lubricated to extend their service life.

Note! Use only grease that is suitable for this faucet model. The composition of the material for seals varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and the use of the wrong type of lubricant can damage the sealing rings and cause leaks.

After the seals have been replaced, we assemble the mixer by first installing the ball in place, and then by mounting the casing and flywheel. We check the tightness of all connections by connecting water. If the connections do not let water through, the pressure is sufficient and the temperature is regulated in the normal mode, then the repair of the ball valve has been completed successfully!

Of all installed in an apartment or house plumbing fixtures and devices in the category of the most commonly used, for sure, can be attributed to the kitchen faucet. Cooking, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, drawing water for drinking or boiling, holding wet cleaning in the kitchen, a lot of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later the moment comes when the built-in operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition water pipes does not withstand any criticism.

Faucet failure immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What to do - call a plumber or run to buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but for starters, you can try to repair the mixer in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the vast majority of the most common faults are repairable. And in the process of restoring the mixer, there are usually no operations so high level difficulties that they would be inaccessible to self-fulfillment the average landlord.

IN what are the malfunctions of the mixer

What obvious and not very signs will tell the owner that the state kitchen faucet should be taken seriously?

• Under the sink in the kitchen there are always traces of dampness, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not immediately noticed, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below, who have a wet spot on the stream.

Dampness under the sink is a clear sign of some kind of malfunction.

Of course, with a higher probability the reason lies in the malfunction drain system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.

Vulnerable point - flexible connection with old steel pipes

If this is indeed the case, then the best choice will be the reconstruction of the home water supply network - replacing it with polypropylene or metal-plastic. But this is a large-scale event, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.

By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection of a flexible hose with steel pipe. "Packaging" with the help of FUM tape or tow - completely unnecessary business. There must be a gasket in the hose nut, which, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.

It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightly tightened, whether it has turned away. However, great efforts should not be allowed when tightening it - you can pinch the gasket, and the leak will become even more.

If the tightening does not help, close the general water supply valve to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into the substituted basin and examine the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven, touched by corrosion, then there will be no good sealing with the hose. In this case, the best way out is to pack on the thread (of course, using FUM, and better - tow with a special paste like "Unipac") a factory-made extension adapter, in which the edge fits perfectly to the hose gasket.

The sealing material is tightly wound around the turns of the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightly tightened with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leakage. Most likely everything will be fine.

• The second option is that everything is dry on the connections, but the appearance of water on the hose braid is clearly felt. Cause pretty widespread- alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that a rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and it happens that they give tons of cracks and metal heads, especially if they are made of silumin.

In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all understandable catastrophic consequences.

To replace the piping, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and screw the fittings of the new ones into high quality nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models it is simply impossible.

To dismantle the mixer, of course, first the cold and hot water supply valves are closed, the pressure is released, then both flexible hoses are disconnected from the rub. Further actions depend on the type of attachment of the mixer. It's easy to figure this out.

- A very common fastening scheme with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the bottom of the body from the mixer, and nuts pressing a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.

It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs (sometimes the stud itself is unscrewed during dismantling - it's okay), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10 wrench is usually used, but one must be prepared for the fact that in practice there are nuts for 11 or even 9.

After removing the mixer, it is fashionable to immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the fitting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (in the picture it is shown by an arrow).

The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them especially when dismantling - it will still take effort to unscrew the mount wrench. A screwdriver can be used when reassembling the mixer - it will be more convenient to heal the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.

- Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, which securely fixes the device.

By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But doing so will not be easy.

Imagine working in a very cramped space - under kitchen sink where it is almost impossible to take a comfortable position to start the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the hose connection, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the key.

Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually easy - just do not forget to disconnect corrugated pipe drain from the sewer pipe.

Another “plus” of this approach is that it becomes possible to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant, in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting down when the work is completed. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be both easier and much better.

Failed hoses are not subject to any repair and restoration - only replacement! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:

- The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.

- A more reliable option - modern corrugated hoses from stainless steel. They are more rigid, and working with them is somewhat more difficult. But in terms of durability and reliability, they win significantly.

More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses

- Some masters prefer hard eyeliner from metal-plastic pipes. To do this, there are special fittings with fittings to go to the appropriate pipe. You will have to tinker longer, but then you can no longer worry about this area.

The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.

- If it is fixed on the studs, then the hoses are passed through the sink hole, they are first put on an annular gasket that buries the junction of the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests corps. It will be more convenient to first tighten the short fitting, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but nevertheless, experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.

Then the studs are baited, the mixer is installed in the socket, a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped bar are put on from below. Now it remains only to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the alignment of the device in the center mounting hole and for how the gasket ring lay down.

- If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fitting after fixing the device on the sink.

- They do the same if a rigid metal-plastic eyeliner is planned. In this case, a curved fitting with a fitting is first screwed in, and then a straight one.

If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.

Aqua stop valve

If suddenly the hose sun f-still " explode", then the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent the flood. Probably worth spending a little more for security.

Well, now let's move on to the consideration of problems with the mixer itself.

Problems from above - troubleshooting mixers

If it is obvious that the mixer does not work as required, water oozes out of it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without interrupting the current water, then problems should be sought in the device itself.

General problems - water oozes through the faucet

The first reason is a defect in the case

- If the faucets are working normally, but constant water leaks are noticeable on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability it can be assumed that the body has cracked. It can be almost invisible to the eye, but for water this is enough. The reason may lie in the poor-quality performance of the product, in the use in the manufacture of brittle and corrosive metal - silumin, in excessive constriction of nuts or taps - this may cause the seat to burst, in mechanical damage to the device.

It is necessary to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives a result. And if a crack is found, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Closing cracks with any compositions, including " cold welding” if it does, but for a very short time and with no guarantee that a more serious accident will not occur while the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to risk it, but to go for a new mixer.

Be careful not to damage outer coating, with the help of an adjustable wrench, the nut is loosened, unscrewed, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully progressively removed upwards.

On the lower cylindrical part in special grooves there are rubber rings-gaskets - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, right under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “plain bearing”.

If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself dangled, then all gaskets should be changed, since they have definitely worn out. Including the plastic split ring to be replaced.

These spare parts are literally "penny", and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select the gaskets of the desired diameter.

Before reassembly, the parts must be cleaned of traces of limescale or rust. When putting rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to break them. To facilitate the work, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Insert the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.

After the new gaskets are put on, the spout can be put in place. But first you need to carefully wipe the landing nest inside with a soft cloth - there may be lime or corrosion growths. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain effort, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout left and right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers ( typical place leaks are shown by arrows in the figure).

Elimination of such a defect will require disassembly of the entire device, which will be discussed below.

Problems in the valve mechanism of the mixer

The most common malfunctions are in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through valves or upper part mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold streams. The elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.

Repair work with a two-valve mixer

The figure shows circuit diagram devices of most two-valve mixers.

In the body (pos. 1) there are three holes-nests. A gander spout (pos. 2) is installed in the central one, which we have already dealt with above. Left and right in nests faucet boxes (pos. 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water into the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (pos. 4). These flywheels (“lambs”) are fixed on the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also acts as a color indicator of cold or hot water.

If there are no cracks on the mixer body, then all the problems that have arisen are related to the fact or other defect of the crane box. Some of them you can try to fix on your own, while others will require the replacement of this assembly.

First of all, it is necessary to unscrew the crane boxes to determine their type.

To do this, first, a protective plastic cap is carefully pry off with a knife (for some models, it may be threaded - then it is carefully unscrewed).

Then the screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver and the handwheel is carefully removed from the splines of the valve stem with a translational movement.

This opens up access to hexagon of the tap, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from the nest. Sometimes, behind the handwheel, there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually this requires the effort of the hand.

After that, the crane box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it needs to be reviewed.

Bushing cranes can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-valve, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several turns of the flywheel from open to closed, and the second is limited to one turn, half, and sometimes even a quarter.

And axle boxes of both types can be both general problems and specific malfunctions. Let's consider in order.

• The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel is rotated. Moving down, the valve closes the channel for water from the supply line to the mixing chamber. Conversely, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.

The arrows show the most vulnerable places, where leaks most often occur.

1 - wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely block the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from long-term operation, or when the water is heavily polluted. Solid particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel, the user, of course, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, out of mixer pouring - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.

The gum itself is held on the stem with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the figure, with a hexagonal head), and around the circumference it is protected from bursting by a metal shell.

- It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.

- Then the rubber gasket is pry off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.

- A new gasket purchased according to the model is put in place and fixed with a screw.

- After that, you can install the crane box in place.

2 - wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to leakage of water through threaded connection mixer housings and faucet boxes with a high pressure of open water. It happens, this is infrequent, but it is eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc you don’t need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the crane onto an FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the nest giving T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.

3 and 4- wear of the internal seals of the axle box. This is accompanied by water leakage in the stem area, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually also suffers - it starts to jam, it is difficult to scroll, etc. The optimal output complete replacement bush cranes. There are, of course, certain recovery technologies - stuffing a new stuffing box, boring and grinding screw gear. However, this, firstly, may not be on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive as to resort to such complex restoration work.

Flaw 2 equally inherent in the axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will be discussed now.

• Boxes with a ceramic valve are arranged differently.

Blue arrows show fixed parts, green arrows show moving parts.

1- the case in which the whole mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.

2 - swivel rod with its sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (pos. 3). On the given not visible in the figure, but assembled between the rod and the housing in the upper part there is a fluoroplastic gasket, which plays the role of a thrust plain bearing.

The second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixed in the lower part of the body. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the mobile. The rotation of the rod leads to the alignment of curly cutouts (windows) on the plates - this is how the water flow opens. Depending on the area of ​​​​combination, the pressure becomes greater or less. In the closed state of the crane. the windows are diametrically opposite position.

The box, when installed in the mixer, with its lower part tightly adjoins the round supply channel due to the annular silicone gasket (pos. 5).

When assembled, the axle box is held by a locking bracket (pos. 6) or a washer (depending on the model, a special groove is made in the rotary stem for this retainer. There are retainers in the form of a small threaded stud with a slot for a screwdriver.

To repair axle box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit a specific model. What could be the reasons for the incorrect operation of the crane box:

but- wear or deformation of the silicone gasket from below. Water continues to flow into the spout when the faucet is closed. Must be replaced.

b- wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly same way, as on a faucet with a rubber valve).

in- one of the most common causes- production of a fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is broken, and when closed, the water does not completely overlap. The defect is easily checked - if, with oozing water, you press the rod of the axle box from above, then the leak stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.

G– two O-rings on the stem prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by water leakage in the flywheel area. To be replaced.

d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This is not common - plumbers say that ceramic parts "leave the last." Possible reason– heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water, rotates unevenly, with effort. If there are plates in the repair kit, then they are also easy to change.

The process of overhauling and repairing the crane box is shown in detail in the video:

Video: how to repair a ceramic crane box

Well, in the event that it was not possible to find the necessary kit, you will have to change the crane box completely.

If you need to replace the crane box, then to purchase a new one, it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. Here, the diameter of the fitting thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and others are important. design features (e.g. threads for installing a decorative cap on top) etc . If desired, it is possible to replace taps with a rubber valve with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select the axle box in the store, it is advisable to take a handwheel (lamb). It happens that the splines of the rod of the new axle box do not match the old flywheel.

Front reverse installation tap, carefully wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - everything that can interfere with the normal screwing in and tight fit of the gaskets.

When installing a new axle box, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or pinch the gaskets. It is best to do this - when the water supply is closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply opens, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until the water stops flowing from under it.

After that, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.

After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge

If problems arose with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. So, the device can have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.

First, consider the option with a cartridge.

The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from spouting when the lever is fully lowered, water seeping through the top of the mixer, excessively easy or vice versa, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.

The best way out is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first.

A schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:

1- metal case with mixer.

2 - cartridge.

3 - clamping fixing nut holding the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually from above it is buried with a decorative cap (item 4).

5 - mixer handle fixed on the plastic cartridge lever with a screw (pos. 6)

7 - swivel spout. The tightness of this movable unit is ensured by two ring gaskets (pos. 8), and smooth running - fluoroplastic rings (pos. 9), acting as plain bearings.

10 - flow aerator located at the end of the spout. A gasket (pos. 11) is used to seal its installation.

In order to replace the cartridge, the work is performed in the following sequence:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	the figure shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge.
	The first step is to carefully pry off and remove the plug that closes the hole for access to the screw fixing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are also located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine. If repairs are made without dismantling the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close drainer – small parts very "like" to fall into it.
	Try shining a flashlight into the opening to determine which head the locking screw has. There can be a straight screwdriver, a curly screwdriver, or a hex. Use the appropriate wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw. Surprises are possible here - it does not always lend itself immediately, especially if water oozed through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can rip off the splines, and eat it up to turn into a really big problem. It is better to try to spray the screw with WD-40 and let it "fall away".
	After the screw is loosened or removed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards.
	The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap. It usually yields to the force of the hand. If not, then you can try to move it from its place with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coatings and not deform the thin metal.
	After removing the cap, the locking clamp nut will open.
	Adjustable or regular open end wrench right size the nut turns counterclockwise...
	... and is removed upwards, completely freeing the cartridge.
	The cartridge is now very easy to remove just with your fingers, without resorting to any tool.
	Do not rush to throw away the dismantled old cartridge - you will need it to purchase a new one. The fact is that there are many models of various standards that differ in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But according to the model, finding a new one in the store is not difficult.
	Before installing a new cartridge, thoroughly clean soft cloth a cylindrical cavity inside the body - there should not be any rust, lime deposits, small particles. Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must match the corresponding recesses in the case.

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn - you must not allow excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as it is fashionable to deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals standing below. It is best to give a small puff, then turn on the water supply and check if it enters the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.

You can immediately stop at the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - pos. 8). In some models, cuffs are used instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.

To replace the seals, the faucet will have to be disassembled even more in order to remove the swivel spout block from the body. Options may be different, depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this assembly is removed upwards - it is stopped by a special cylindrical clutch. But still more often it is removed towards the connection of the supply hoses. For disassembly, in this case, it is impossible to avoid the complete dismantling of the mixer from the sink (how this is done has already been described above).

• An annular lock nut will be visible from below. It is unscrewed - a fluoroplastic ring will be found under it.

• Carefully, so as not to damage it, it is removed, and then the entire swivel block of the spout is removed from the body down.
• So we got to the pads (as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs (see illustration below).

• These seals will have to be changed by purchasing new ones according to the model in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings from above and below - perhaps they are also already very worn out.

Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing qualities of these seals. But still, the best solution would be to completely replace them.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotary block.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block

Not all single-lever mixers have the cartridge discussed above inside - many of them are equipped with a spherical valve assembly. Typical scheme the device of such devices is shown in the figure:

Top down:

Mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3) .

Below is metal cap(pos. 4), which fixes the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it is a plastic cam with a figured washer (pos. 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The bottom washer has a domed shape and a rubber seal around the circumference - for a snug fit to the ball.

The mixing ball itself (pos. 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit to the swivel spout block.

From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit snugly against the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).

The mixer device below is no longer fundamentally different from the one discussed above - a swivel spout block (pos. 9) with grooves (pos. 10) under O-rings(pos. 11). The whole structure is assembled in a brass body (pos. 12). An additional aerator (pos. 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being fed into the spout.

We will not consider problems with the spout - they practically do not differ from what has already been stated above. Let us dwell only on the repair of the valve mechanism.

• Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
• For disassembly, you must first carefully unscrew the top cap. It can have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is moved from its place, gently knocking counterclockwise against the screwdriver rested in the groove. Another option is to insert round-nose pliers into the grooves from the inside.
• When the cap is removed, take out the cam with the washer. With them, you can immediately remove existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
• Then the ball itself is taken out and the entire valve part is carefully examined.

Valve part with ball removed - top view

The reasons for incorrect operation may be the following:

• Dirty or worn top dome washer (orange arrow). Uncommon, usually eliminated by simple cleaning of the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
• Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. Eliminated only by replacing with a new one.
• Worn or deformed valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit snugly against the surface of the ball and begin to bypass water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
• Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) - do not provide a tight pressing of the seats to the ball. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.

If you purchased a repair kit, then repair is easy.

• Using a thin screwdriver, the old valve seats are removed. Then the springs are removed in the same way.

• After thorough cleaning of the mixer cavity, assembly is started in reverse order.
• Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
• A thin layer of silicone grease is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. Then it is installed in the body, so that the restrictive protrusion on the body falls into the figured groove on the ball.
• Next, a plastic assembly is installed - a figured dome washer and a cam. It is difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
• The upper metal cap is baited and twisted.
• It is put on the rod and the mixer handle is fixed with a screw.

At this point, the repair of the mixer with a ball valve can be considered complete.

For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:

Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism

Clogged aerator

Another common problem with the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the tip of the spout.

Troubleshooting such a problem is a very simple matter.

First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. It can even succumb to the force of the hand. If not, don't worry, it has two slots for winding the key.

Inside, for sure, an accumulation of solid impurities will be found that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off by directing a powerful pressure from the back of the grid.

If such a measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by gently prying plastic mesh up. Small particles could enter the cavity of the device and clog the holes. You will have to work with a needle or a toothpick to clean them.

It often happens that the clogging becomes “fatal” and cannot be mechanically cleaned. There is nothing to do - a removed aerator is taken for a sample and a new one is purchased.

They are not so expensive, and it is quite possible to afford periodic replacement. But if this situation occurs often, then it is worth considering that the quality tap water extremely low, it is oversaturated with solids, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.

This preventive measure will ensure longer operation and the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.

In our time, the usual mixers have been replaced by Ball Valves. Previously, rubber gaskets had to be constantly changed in taps. Ball mixers are characterized by a more reliable design. But despite this, the components of the crane are subject to wear and therefore require replacement or cleaning over time. Since the crane has simple design, do-it-yourself ball valve repair can be done by anyone who knows how to use the appropriate tool. To do this, it is enough to study the device of the crane and stock up on the necessary tools.

A ball valve is a rotary knob that controls the flow of water.

A ball valve is a single rotary handle that regulates the water supply. By turning the knob to the left or right, you can adjust the water temperature, and by moving it up and down, you can increase or decrease the water pressure. Inside the faucet body there is a hollow ball, in which there are openings for the inlet of hot and cold water. After mixing, the water flows out through the outlet. This ball is in a non-separable ceramic cartridge. Special sealing seats hold the ball and prevent it from popping out under high pressure water.

The difficulty of repairing ball valves with your own hands is that many parts are in a non-separable cartridge. Thus, if any internal part fails, the entire cartridge has to be replaced. The rotary mechanism consists of a handle, which is attached to the mixer body with a screw, and a regulating rod. The hole in which the fixing screw is located is closed with a decorative cap. At the outlet of the tap there is an aerator - a special mesh to hold small particles. Knowing the device of the crane, it is easier to dismantle it for repair and assemble it back.

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Malfunctions and their causes

Before disassembling the ball valve, it is necessary to find out the cause of the malfunction. It is possible that the crane will not need to be dismantled. Poor pressure may be caused by low pressure in the central system water supply. Therefore, you should check if there is pressure in other taps. There can be several reasons for the failure of the crane itself:

1. Cracks appeared on the mixer body. The reason for this is poor quality material. On cheap models, sometimes they put not brass, but silumin. This material is fragile and does not withstand shock and mechanical stress. It is best in this case to change the valve completely. If this is not possible, then temporary cracks can be covered with sealant. It must be waterproof, otherwise after a while the case may leak again. Sealant is applied thin layer. After the first application of the sealant, it is necessary to wait for complete drying and clean the surface. Then a second layer is applied, after which it also needs to be cleaned after drying. But in the future, the mixer must be replaced so as not to get a flood if the body completely bursts.
2. The faucet is leaking. The cause of water leakage is the entry of microscopic particles between the ball and the sealing seats, which must fit tightly. Motes caught in the gap can break the seal and cause premature wear of the rubber seats.
3. Weak water pressure. If the water pressure in the entire plumbing system is normal, then the reason may be a clogged aerator mesh. In this case, remove the aerator from the faucet, clean it and return it to its place. You can avoid such breakdowns by installing a water filter on the supply pipes. They will purify water from unwanted particles. The pressure can be adjusted using the rod, which is located between the ball and the lever.
4. Problems with temperature control. The cause of this malfunction is clogging of the cartridge. Pieces of rust, debris or sealant can get into one of its holes if it is worn out. In this case, it may be necessary not only to clean the cartridge, but also to replace the seal. You may need to replace the entire cartridge.

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Step-by-step instruction

Before performing repairs, prepare the following tools:

• pliers;
• flat screwdriver;
• wrench;
• hexagon;
• small hammer.

When repairing a ball valve with your own hands, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. First of all, you need to turn off the supply of cold and hot water using shut-off valves. Then you need to drain the remaining water from the mixer.

First of all, you need to remove the rotary knob. To do this, loosen the screw that holds it, and then, loosening it from side to side, carefully remove it. If the faucet has not been disassembled for a long time, you can gently knock out the handle with a hammer. When unscrewing the threaded part, be aware of the connected water supply hoses. Unscrew them carefully so as not to damage them. To do this, use a flat screwdriver to press on the threaded ring and turn it counterclockwise. In this case, it is necessary to press hard on the notches.

At the next stage, the cover (dome) is removed with pliers. Then the plastic parts are removed. They and the space under them should be well washed and cleaned.

Weak point of ball valves - rotary mechanism and seals.

If the seals are worn out, they must be replaced. If they are covered with rust, then they must be cleaned using an instant rust remover, for example, Liquid Key. The seal may also contain lime deposits caused by too hard water. They are carefully removed with non-abrasive cleaning agents so as not to damage the seal.

After disassembling the crane, carefully inspect all spare parts and replace worn ones. When replacing bolts, you must buy exactly the same size, otherwise the repair of the ball valve will not bring the desired result. If damage is found on the ball or its deformation, then it is better to replace it completely. The faucet has its own filter in front of the ball, but due to poor quality water, it may not be able to cope with its function. Therefore, when carefully cleaning out all the cavities.

After removing the ball, the seals that hold it should be dismantled. They are removed with a flat screwdriver. Old seals and springs should be replaced with new ones, as they lose their elasticity over time and do not fix the ball so well. All seals should be lubricated with a special silicone grease for plumbing, then they will last a long time.

After all the work performed, the crane must be assembled in the reverse order, starting with the installation of the ball. All parts must be treated with a special lubricant. After assembling the crane, it is necessary to check its performance. When the water is turned off, the tap should not leak, and when open, the pressure should correspond to the pressure in the system. You should also pay attention to the temperature of the water, it should be regulated by turning the knob. If everything works, then the valve is assembled correctly. For long-term service of ball valves, you need to buy quality products. It is better to pay more than to change the tap after a short period of time after purchase.

Water taps various designs is in every home. The most popular are ball mechanisms invented 100 years ago. They are easy to install and affordable. The consumer is presented with a number of design options with functional and design differences. You can handle the repair of all varieties with your own hands if you know the device of a ball-type water faucet and its main parts.

Speaking of ball valves, it is worth separating the concepts of "faucet" and "faucet". Combines both varieties common to them structural element- a locking or regulating part in the form of a body of rotation of a rounded configuration.

Actions to lock the pipeline or adjust the flow are performed by turning this element around its conditional central axis.

A huge range of taps for water supply allows you to choose a device for any water supply system with optimal parameters and external design

Cranes can be installed between elements plumbing system, and be the end point of the pipeline. In the first case, the devices are called shut-off devices, and in the second they play the role of water folding devices and most often are well-known mixers.

A faucet is a mechanism for mixing water and regulating its temperature, while a faucet can only regulate the amount of pressure. Shut-off ball valves are divided into passage valves, i.e. installed in a straight section of the pipeline, angular, i.e. located on the site with a change in the direction of flow by 90º, and on a three-way, i.e. supplying the flow to two receiving nozzles.

Due to the simplicity of the design, the ball valve rarely breaks, it is extremely easy to repair and install

Valves with ball valves are used in water supply and heating circuits. By parameters bandwidth The taps used in thermal systems are divided into:

• full bore. Ball devices, in which the diameter of the outlet of the ball plug, it is also a shutter, is equal to the diameter of the pipeline on which the valve is installed.
• Reduced. Plumbing fixtures in which the diameter of the outlet of the ball plug is less than the same size of the pipeline in most cases by one standard size.

Cranes of the reduced type allow you to shut off the heat main quickly, but without the threat of the formation of a water hammer.

By type of connection to the water supply system:

• Threaded. Fittings with internal or external conical or cylindrical threads. Mounted by screwing on couplings or screwing in spigot fittings. The most common type in public utilities is easy to install, makes it easy to carry out repairs.
• Combined. Devices equipped with internal and external thread. On the one hand, they are connected by means of a coupling with an internal thread, on the other hand, by a nipple fitting.
• Welded. Mounted by welding. With impeccable performance, the connections provide perfect tightness, do not require periodic adjustment of the position of the couplings, like the previous version. However, they are inconvenient to repair, because. together with them it is necessary to dismantle part of the pipeline.
• Flanged. Are established by means of flanges on responsible pipeline highways. They can be repeatedly dismantled and re-installed. Periodically require control of the bolted tightening of the flanges.

IN autonomous systems water supply, conventional threaded devices are most often used, allowing the assembly of a pipeline of any complexity from all known varieties pipes or combinations thereof.

Ball valves are produced with external and internal threads, allowing them to be connected to the pipeline by means of couplings or fittings (+)

By hull type:

• all-welded, the body of which is a single structure;
• collapsible, when the body elements are bolted together and can be easily disassembled.

The first type of product is considered the most reliable, but in the event of a malfunction, such a device cannot be repaired. Collapsible cranes often fail, but are easy to repair.

By type of liquid passed:

• for cold water up to +35º С;
• for hot water up to +90º С.

Devices are controlled using a lever or butterfly valve. Choice of faucet with in a certain way control depends on the location of the valve and the preferences of the owner. Cranes with a lever are often installed on the central sections of the pipeline, with a "butterfly" - on the branches of the system.

Ball valve mixers are installed in kitchens, bathrooms and are the end points of the water supply system.

There are a lot of options for distributing the water supply system inside the house, but in all cases, ball valves are installed on the plots as shutoff valves (+)

The device and principle of operation of ball valves

The body of the locking device is a piece of pipe, expanded in the middle part. The extension has a seat made of sealing material, inside which is main element- a ball, it is a shutter or a cork. The ball can rotate freely inside the seat. It has only one through hole in the shut-off valve.

Regulating devices and valves that redirect the flow may have 2 or 3 holes. If the tap is used to regulate the pressure of hot or cold water, then there are two holes, if the device is a mixer, then there are three holes.

A ball valve is actuated by turning a lever to which a ball valve with a hole is connected through a stem. By turning the hole relative to the axis of the pipeline, we open / close the passage to the medium or pass it partially

The principle of operation is very simple: when the axis of the hole in the ball is aligned with the axis of the faucet body, water will begin to flow from it. Those. when the plug is turned so that its opening coincides with the direction of the pipeline, as if continuing it. In this position, the flow of liquid, steam, gas passes through the pipeline, including through the valve, freely.

When the ball valve is rotated 90º, the passage for water, steam, gas is blocked by the side on which there are no holes. In this position, the flow of the medium stops completely, because it rests against the solid wall of the shutter. However, this simple fixture flow parameters can also be adjusted. When turning 45º, for example, the flow will be blocked only half.

To control the ball, a rod connected to a lever is used. O-rings are located on both sides of the stem. The hole in the body through which the stem passes is also equipped with a washer and an o-ring.

Ball single lever mixer equipped with a lock with two holes for passing cold and hot water and another hole for the outlet of a mixed jet (+)

Ball valves are made of brass or various steel grades. Brass devices are considered more reliable, their service life exceeds 10 years. Steel products are very rarely used in everyday life, mainly used for industrial piping systems.

More recently, manufacturers began to produce cranes, the body of which is made of high-strength plastic. Unlike brass, such devices are not subject to corrosion, they are much cheaper. The only downside plastic products is that they cannot be used for hot water.

All o-rings are made of rubber high density, these are the “weakest” points of the tap, which cause leaks, but are easily replaced using a conventional repair kit

These taps are the most widely used in everyday life. A feature of their design is that the ball is not rigidly connected to the stem and can move under the action of water, pressing against the sealing ring, thus sealing the valve. The floating ball is used in mechanisms whose nominal size does not exceed 20 cm. Such devices are installed in internal water and heat supply systems. Practically in all household mixers of domestic and foreign production, a floating ball mechanism is also installed.

Execution of the body of cranes with a floating ball can be either welded or collapsible. Sealing elements can be of different hardness. small home appliances are usually collapsible and have soft seals.

Floating gate valves are installed on lines with a diameter of up to 200 mm with a constant movement of the working medium. The ball under the pressure of the medium is pressed against the sealing rings, sealing the fittings (+)

There are valves in which the locking element is fixed on the stem axis, and the seals are pressed against the ball with the help of tie bolts or springs. To facilitate closing/opening, the trunnion is equipped with bearings. This design is the most reliable, but due to the high cost it is used in everyday life extremely rarely and usually in the most critical sections of the water supply system.

Ball valve marking

Each manufacturer has its own range of manufactured cranes, but all products Russian production, as well as imported devices sold in the Russian Federation, comply with GOST 52760. This standard regulates the marking of shut-off and control equipment, which includes ball valves. The label must include:

• nominal passage (nominal diameter), denoted by the abbreviation DN;
• nominal pressure indicator - PN;
• the value of the calculated (working) pressure;
• an arrow indicating the direction of water movement;
• maximum operating temperature;
• release date.

In accordance with GOST 4666, devices made of cast iron are black in color, those made of stainless steel are blue (blue). Hot water faucets are marked in red.

Today, more than four thousand standard sizes of cranes are produced for various needs, including household systems water supply devices of small diameter are used (+)

Installation and operation of cranes

The device of the ball water tap makes it easy to install it yourself where it is required. The crane must be mounted in such a place that during operation it does not interfere with and is not subjected to mechanical influences. At the same time, free access to the crane must be provided in case of control of work, correction of non-removable damage and dismantling if replacement is necessary.

The locking device is mounted on metal or plastic pipes according to the following algorithm:

1. Filmed old faucet(if any), the thread is cleaned of the remnants of tow and sealant.
2. The threaded seal is tightly wound.
3. A new locking device of suitable size is screwed on. Please note that the thread on which the product is screwed must not be rotten, it must have at least four turns. Otherwise, it is necessary to change the entire pipe or part of it.

When installing a water supply system from scratch, first of all, it is necessary to outline the place where the faucet will be mounted. Then the pipe is cut off in this place, a corresponding thread is made, onto which the locking device is screwed.

In both cases, before installation, pay attention to the arrow indicating the direction of flow and be sure to observe this condition. Before screwing the tap, it is recommended to wrap the thread with FUM tape. This will ensure the most reliable sealing.

After installation, it is necessary to check the operability of the locking device. To do this, turn on the water and check for leaks, gradual formation of drops, smudges. It is also necessary to make sure that nothing interferes with the control of the crane, i.e. the lever or "butterfly" has free play.

Electric welding is used to mount the device by welding. During welding, it is important not to damage the ball mechanism and sealing rings. First, one branch pipe is welded, then the second, while on the vertical sections the valve must be installed in the “closed” position, and on the horizontal sections - “open”.

Using a fitting and a lock nut, a ball valve can be installed not only on a metal or plastic pipe, but also to connect them pipes from different materials

The operation of ball mechanisms does not cause difficulties, they are used either in a closed or in open form. It is theoretically possible to regulate water supply with a ball valve. However, it is worth considering that such a valve is, first of all, a locking device and too intensive operation will lead to rapid wear of the seals. For flow control, it is better to use ball-type mixers or a needle valve if a mixer cannot be installed.

It is impossible to install household taps where technical water containing solid impurities passes through the pipes, because. they will quickly damage the o-rings, disabling the locking device.

Before buying ball control valves for a water supply system, you need to check the plan and determine how many straight and rotary pieces will be required (+)

Advantages and disadvantages of ball valves

Ball valves are very popular in the most various fields economy. They are considered reliable locking devices, are part of the water supply system of a city apartment and a private house. In addition to reliability and simplicity of design, products of this type have many other advantages:

• large working resource, long service life;
• rarely break, easily repaired;
• high degree of tightness correct installation there are no leaks;
• convenient use, to block the water flow, it is enough to turn or press the lever;
• a huge range of sizes and types;
• ease of installation, you can install it yourself without involving a plumber.

Ball valves have no drawbacks, they are affordable, every hardware store will offer you several products of various sizes to choose from. A faucet with a ball mechanism will save its owners the time-consuming and frequent replacement of gaskets, as well as problems with water leakage, which are so common with obsolete faucets.

Ball mixers very rarely fail, the main cause of failure is hard water, so manufacturers recommend installing water filters in the water supply system

How to choose a ball valve?

As already mentioned, modern manufacturers produce more than 4,000 various kinds ball valves, so for an unprepared buyer, the choice of a locking device is a difficult task. Choosing a mechanism other than the main parameter − throughput diameter you should pay attention to the following factors:

1. Appearance. A high-quality product has no chips, notches, dents. Its surface is smooth, the marking of the manufacturer is clearly visible.
2. Permissible pressure. Of the two options, it is better to choose the valve, the maximum allowable pressure, which will be greater. Please note that this indicator for hot water should be at least 20 kg / cm², for cold - at least 10 kg / cm². The greater the allowable pressure, the better the product will withstand water hammer that periodically occurs in the pipeline.
3. Housing design. To connect household appliances, shower cabins, wiring of the water supply system inside the house, it is better to give preference to simpler and maintainable collapsible taps. For the most important areas, such as a central water supply the best option will be an all-welded body.
4. Body material. The highest quality products are made of brass. Be careful! Under the guise of a brass faucet, they can sell you a fake made of silumin, a cheap, low-quality metal. You can identify a fake by weight: brass faucet heavy.

Steel products look solid, but quickly rust and fail. Of course, this does not apply to stainless steel devices, which, however, are quite rare. If only cold water will pass through the tap, then you can choose a plastic product.

For shutting off the flow in non-pressure and low-pressure systems conveying drinking water, domestic non-corrosive and storm drains can be applied PVC ball valves

When choosing a crane, be guided by the average price, too low a cost should alert you, because. you are probably offered a marriage or a fake made of cheap steel.

As for the cost of ball valves, the Made in Italy devices are the most expensive. Slightly lower in cost are Spanish, Czech, Hungarian devices. Russian and Ukrainian manufacturers occupy an average price niche, combining quality and reasonable cost.

The most expensive and durable ball valves are made of brass, plated with a chrome or nickel layer, such devices can long time operate at temperatures above 100 degrees

The cheapest products are traditionally made in China. The quality of Chinese mechanisms leaves much to be desired, they can only be used as temporary locking devices.

Ball valve video

Detailed instructions for installing ball valves in steps:

Ball valve problems:

Ball valve - useful invention, greatly simplifying the construction of a safe water supply system. Installation is hassle-free, no need to call a plumber or use complicated tools. Get to know your device different types ball valve will help you perform a number of simple repair operations with your own hands without the involvement of plumbers.