Today it is difficult to find a bathroom that does not have ceramic tiles. This method is convenient in all respects - a reliable protection of the premises is created in conditions high humidity and provide an aesthetically pleasing appearance. But at the same time, the quality of the material and the level of finishing work carried out are important.

How to properly tile in the bathroom, you will learn from this article.

Features of ceramic tiling

This material is the most versatile, can be used both for wall decoration and for floor covering. The advantages of tiles are as follows:

• excellent moisture resistance - the ability to use in rooms with high humidity;
• increased strength;
• durability in operation - with the right laying technology, the cladding will last for more than a dozen years;
• ease of cleaning with the possibility of using a variety of detergents;
• a variety of choices in shape, size and color.

A significant disadvantage of this method of finishing is the high degree of labor intensity of work and their cost.

However, there is an opportunity to save on finishing if you do all the work yourself, guided by competent instructions.

How to lay tiles

The consumption of materials depends on the chosen design of the bathroom, its shape and area. It is advisable to calculate the entire finishing area and increase the amount of material by 5-7%. The qualifications of the performer and the chosen method of carrying out the work also affect the final result.

There are several styling options!

Direct is the easiest approach. Here it is required to lay horizontally or vertically in a row. The seams of each subsequent row should clearly match the seams of the previous one. This method is most suitable for rectangular-type rooms; it is easy for a novice master to handle it.

Diagonal - its use is advisable if you choose square tiles and lay it out diagonally. This method allows you to visually align the bumps, but requires more skill.

Checkered - used in square-shaped bathrooms and requires laying tiles in two colors in a checkerboard pattern.

With offset. It is necessary to purchase a rectangular tile with an aspect ratio of 2 to 1. Laying is done by shifting each subsequent row to the side relative to the previous one.

Mosaic laying from individual ceramic elements small size.

Installation planning

If you are a sufficiently responsible person, then the image of the plan with drawing on it the drawing that you want to get in real performance will not hurt you. Such a plan will help you clearly imagine the feasibility of laying. decorative elements, determine the center of the walls and ceiling, plan the laying with symmetry and the exclusion of gaps, irregularities.

It is also advisable to prepare necessary tools and material. You will need:

• adhesive mixture in the required amount;
• water to dissolve the mixture;
• grout for filling joints.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• a container for diluting the solution and a drill with a mixer;
• spatula for laying the mixture on the surface;
• grinder, tile cutter, tongs and corundum bar for cutting and processing tiles;
• level and plastic crosses to control the position of the tile.

Surface preparation

Tiles are laid on a leveled and cleaned surface, which will improve the quality of fastening and durability of operation. Therefore, on initial stage should be completely removed old finish. Then the surface is cleaned of small debris, dirt and dust.

Checking how smooth the wall and floor are in the vertical and horizontal planes, respectively, is done using a level. If necessary, it is desirable to plaster the surface to give it greater alignment.

After the plastered surface has dried, it should be primed with an antifungal primer. deep penetration. After that, you can begin to perform the main finishing work.

Procedure for laying ceramic tiles

If you do not have much experience in finishing work, then you need to start with the finishing of those places that can be subsequently closed with interior items. Laying is carried out in the direction from the bottom up.

Even if you have clearly calculated the number of tiles in a row, you must attach the first row to the wall without adhesive mass. So you can evaluate the actual placement and formation of a gap at the end of the row.

If the gap is less than 2.5 cm, then the row must be slightly shifted. If it is larger and does not allow you to place a single tile, then you will have to cut and install only a part. It is recommended to place the cut tile at the very beginning of the row.

Coincidence should be avoided tile joints with joints on the base plates. Using a pencil or chalk, a mark is made on the placement of the first and last tiles in a row. The level will allow you to outline the line along which the tile row will be placed.

The application of the adhesive mass on the wall is carried out in stages as the work is carried out. It is necessary to mark a plot of four tile sizes in height.

Glue is laid on the surface within the marked area, for which a notched trowel is used. The mixture is taken from the container and evenly applied to the wall or floor in an even layer. When preparing the adhesive solution, the consistency must be observed - it should not be too liquid or thick.

The tile is pressed against the surface with the applied adhesive. Excess solution will be mechanically squeezed out of its edges.

Excess glue must be quickly removed before it hardens. If dried areas appear, they can be removed with a plastic or wooden spatula.

After reliable fixation, the position of the tile is checked by a level. If there is a deviation along the vertical or horizontal, these violations must be promptly and carefully eliminated, avoiding displacement.

In order for the seams to be even, special plastic crosses are used.

When finishing areas with pipe outlets, windows or other elements that do not allow uniform tile laying, it is cut off with a grinder or tile cutter. And with tongs for breaking ceramics, a shape is given.

Features of grouting

At the final stage of finishing, when the glue has dried, crosses are removed from the seams and filled with grout. A rubber trowel is used to apply the grout.

If this tool is driven in a diagonal direction, the mixture enters the gaps, thereby forming the necessary hermetically sealed layer. If excess dried grout remains on the tile, you can remove it with a dampened sponge.

The tile in the bathroom provides not only a moisture-resistant protective finishing layer, but can also give the room an original look.

Laying tiles in the bathroom is a common thing and a standard material for wall and floor cladding. The market offers many models of tiles, the main task is to lay it well so as not to return to this issue for many years.

It starts for different reasons, but its course is always the same:

• Evaluation of communications, measurement of the premises.
• Design project development.
• Selection of building and finishing materials.
• The process of repair and decoration.
• Admiring the result and the pleasure of using it.

For the bathroom, an important item in the repair is the ceramic tiling of the walls and floor. Tiling is responsible for hygiene, beauty and water resistance in the room. AT finished design project the color scheme of the room is taken into account, in which ceramic tiles are of decisive importance. But not so much color palette, but rather on the characteristics of the material.

Tile classes

Laying tiles in the bathroom, like any construction process, requires calculations. You can calculate the number of tiles based on the size of the area that needs to be lined. Measure separately the quadrature of the floor and each wall on which you will lay the tiles.

To fully clarify the issue with the calculation of the number of tiles, watch the video from a specialist:

Perhaps the repair plans do not include the finishing of all walls or it is necessary to clad the walls only to a certain height.

AT latest trends in the design of bathrooms, only a partial use of ceramics on the walls can be traced, more than half of the wall areas are pasted over with waterproof wallpaper, plastered and painted.

Consider use case modern technologies in wall decoration - for decorating the bathroom, it gives a lot of room for design solutions and an extraordinary approach to the aesthetics of the room.

Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands requires preparation. Achieve what you want without special trouble tools and materials will help.

You will need:
plumb;
mallet;
· a hammer;
Notched trowel
metal meter and tape measure;
· level;
tile cutter
· ceramic tile;
adhesive for tiles
primer;
· plastic crosses for the identical size of distances between tiles;
grout for seams;
tile corner.

Now you can start building and finishing work.

Dismantling

If you are the owner of a brand new apartment without finishing, then you need to do only one thing: check whether the walls and floor are suitable for laying tiles. It's easy to find out - run the pointed end of the nail over the surface, if the concrete does not crumble, there are no small chipping pieces, then the floor and wall screed is made of quality material and dry enough. It is necessary to prime the surfaces with a composition suitable for your tile and carry out waterproofing procedures. Laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands does not require additional effort.

To start repair work in other cases, it is necessary to carry out dismantling work. If possible, remove all furniture from the room, remove the sink, cover the bath with plywood and polyethylene so as not to damage it, and do the same with the toilet.

The turn of the old tile has come, it needs to be removed and done as carefully as possible, removing not only the tile, but also old glue. Old tiles are removed with a hammer drill or impact drill. If thoughts visit to lay down new tile on top of the old one, then answer yourself the question: “Does the old tile firmly adhere to the wall or not?” Most likely, there will be no affirmative answer, so get rid of the old coating without regret.

Flat field for creativity

Laying tiles in the bathroom requires flat surfaces. After removing the tiles, check the horizontalness of the floor and evenness of the walls and eliminate the flaws. This procedure is extremely important to do with meticulous scrupulousness.

Neglect of leveling surfaces will entail the poor quality of all subsequent work.

The even vertical of the walls is checked with a plumb line: attach it under the ceiling and lower it one or two centimeters above the floor level. Make marks for imperfections. Do the procedure on all the walls where the tiles will lie. To level the floor, you need to beat off the zero level (horizontal line on the wall) from which you will take measurements to the floor level at several points around the perimeter of the room. Thus, it will become clear whether the floor is sloped or not. Level the slope of the floor to a level horizontal surface. Pits, holes, crevices and other damage to walls and floors should be eliminated with special mixtures.

Walls can be leveled by plastering, which takes a lot of time due to the work itself and the time required for the surface to dry. Faster, cheaper and quality way- leveling the walls with waterproof plasterboard. It is not necessary to build a frame for the slabs, the HKP can be glued to the wall using a mortar for ceramic tiles. For extra strength, they are reinforced with dowels and self-tapping screws. The floor is leveled cement mixture by beacons.

Waterproofing

Leveled and dried for two weeks, the floor is covered with two layers of primer with drying. The next step is to lay the waterproofing tape at the half-wall joint on a self-adhesive backing. Treat the joints of the floor and walls with a coating waterproofing material and let it dry overnight. To achieve the maximum level of security, process the joints in three layers with intermediate drying.

The most popular and proven coating material is prepared on the basis of polyester and fiberglass. Weight sold in ready-made in construction stores, use it according to the instructions. To increase security, you can process the entire surface of the floor, so you protect yourself from problems with neighbors, you never want to make repairs in a neighboring apartment if flooding occurs through your fault.

When the rough construction work is done, let all surfaces dry and settle. Treat the places where the tiles are laid with a deep penetration primer. Be sure to clean up, so it's easier to start finishing.

Fine finishing work

Laying tiles in the bathroom begins with the walls. The start of the cladding starts from the corner farthest from the door. Prepare the required amount of tiles, dry adhesive mix, tile cutter, notched trowel, level. Dilute the dry mixture with water according to the instructions, knead it thoroughly, for this it is better to use a drill with a special nozzle.

If not the entire wall will be tiled, draw a line to which the tile will reach. If a panel is planned, then mark the place where it will be glued. Also draw a line near the floor, it is located at the height of one tile. This is done in order to lay out the second row of tiles. The first, lowest row is laid out last. The adhesive is applied to the walls using a notched trowel. After laying out one row, check its evenness with a level.

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How to lay tiles in the bathroom efficiently and beautifully: practical tips that will come in handy

And again I welcome you dear readers. Today I'm going to talk about how to lay tiles in the bathroom correctly without making common mistakes.

The topic is of considerable interest, since the decoration of the bathroom places special demands not only on the selection of facing material, but also on the technology of its installation.

Features of laying ceramic tiles

The technology of laying ceramic facing material depends on such factors as the type of surface to be finished (walls, floors, slopes, window sills, etc.) and the type of materials used for the rough finish of the working surface ( cement plaster, gypsum plaster, drywall, other board materials, floor screed, etc.).

In accordance with the type of surface to be finished, floor or wall tiles are used, which differ in thickness, density and weight. For the floor, thick coatings with an anti-slip matte surface are selected, while such requirements are not imposed on wall cladding.

When buying an inexpensive tile, selectively check the degree of its evenness right in the store. To do this, we apply two tiles with their front surfaces to each other and see if there is an uneven gap between them. If the surface is uneven, you should not buy such material, since flat surface will be difficult or impossible.

By the way, the curvature of the front surface is distinguishing feature facing materials domestic production costing up to 300 rubles per 1 m².

In accordance with the type of base on which the laying will be carried out, certain means for surface preparation are selected, as well as certain types of glue, which may differ in the degree of subsequent hydrophobicity and adhesion.

It is clear that I described the features of the selection of materials superficially. If necessary, write in the comments, and I will talk about this in more detail in a separate article.

Now let's go directly to how to lay tiles correctly so that they stand for a long time and do not fall off from moisture and temperature changes. As an example, I will tell you about the most difficult case, namely, wall cladding.

Laying tiles on plasterboard walls

The instructions given in the diagram are equally relevant for both drywall surfaces and plastered walls. cement-sand mixtures(CPS). The only difference when facing surfaces plastered with DSP is that their preparation is limited to applying a primer or simply moistening with water from a spray bottle.

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the diagram.

Surface preparation

Since walls finished with moisture-resistant drywall are still not sufficiently resistant to excessive moisture, they must be prepared as follows:

• We fasten to the surface a painting net-serpyanka with an overlap in the corners;
• With a wide spatula on top of the grid, pressing into the cells, we apply plaster mixture on the cement base or glue;

• After the reinforcing layer has dried, we apply a thicker leveling layer of plaster;

• After drying, we apply a layer of coating waterproofing on top of the plaster.

Facing works

After the preparatory work is over, it's time to learn how to start laying tiles correctly.

Before proceeding to facing works look at what the tile is placed on. If the surface is not smooth enough, we level it and thus subsequently reduce the consumption of glue, the price of which is high. If the surface crumbles, we strengthen it with primers or deep penetration impregnations.

As an example, I will tell you how to clad a wall in the traditional way when materials are used. different color, as a rule, it is darker from below, and lighter from above, and a ceramic border - a frieze - is laid out between them.

• To begin with, we determine at what level the color border will pass and at this level we fix the initial bar - a metal profile with a shelf overhang of 1-1.5 cm;
• We prepare the glue (I will indicate the details of the preparation of the glue later in the recommendations for the instructions);
• We apply glue with a notched trowel to the wall above the starting bar;

• We lay a row of frieze on the glue;

When working with ceramic cladding materials, in no case should we forget about the expansion joint. The seam is maintained due to plastic spacers - special crosses with a thickness of 1 mm or more. The larger the tile used, the greater the thickness of the expansion joint should be.

• After the row of the frieze is laid, we remove the remnants of the glue that has come out from the wall with an even spatula and let the border dry for an hour;

• After the row of the frieze has seized, we lay the tiles from the frieze to the ceiling;

• After finishing the cladding of the upper part of the wall, we clad the wall below the frieze;

• After the wall is completely finished, we wait for a day until the glue dries, after which we fill the seams with grout.

• In order for the load on the surface to be tiled to be small, use tiles of small thickness, as a rule, it is 7-8 mm.
• If the shape of a cheap tile is not an even rectangle, but a trapezoid, we proceed as follows. Open the package on one side, as shown in the photo and mark with a pencil with a solid line.

During laying, we make sure that on one tile the line is located upwards, and on the next one from below, then the row of cladding will be even.

• Approximately 20 minutes before the start of laying, the wall surface is abundantly moistened with water from a spray bottle.
• In order to prolong the life of the lined surface, use hydrophobic silicone or epoxy grouts to fill the joints.

• The grout is applied rubber spatula, after which, after 3 minutes, it is leveled with a damp cloth or a moistened rubber glove.
• When preparing tile adhesive, follow the manufacturer's instructions, namely, when mixing, pour the mixture into water, and not vice versa.
• During laying, we fix the tiles on the glue, making characteristic movements from side to side and, as it were, pressing.
• If for one reason or another the tile lay unevenly, you should not straighten it by shifting it with effort, it is better to lay it again on fresh glue.
• If too thick glue is used, apply it not only to the surface to be lined, but also to back side tiles to ensure optimal adhesion.
• If the adhesive is prepared in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturers of the dry mix, then it is enough to apply it only to the wall and simply press the tile.
• Having finished facing one wall and proceeding to facing the second adjoining wall, we check the evenness of the masonry with a square so that there is an angle of 90 degrees between the walls.
• Before filling the joints with grout, remove the spacers.
• It is possible to fill the seams with grout only after the glue has dried - after about a day.
• Use conventional grouts on cement or plaster base do not recommend because high humidity Mold can grow in the bathroom.
• In order not to use later silicone sealants, we apply the grout not only in the seams on the wall, but also at the junction with the ceiling and floor.

How to prepare tiles for laying over pipes

When conducting overhaul heating and water supply pipes are hidden in the wall, less often in the screed. In this case, in order to veneer vertical surfaces in the tile, special holes must be made into which the ends of the pipes can be brought out.

How to make such holes correctly? It turns out that there is nothing complicated in this. You will need an electric drill and a special nozzle - a cup, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the outer diameter of the pipe.

Drilling ceramic tiles with a cup - crown

The operating instructions are as follows:

• we determine where the pipe will pass and mark the center on the tile;
• we fix the cup in the drill chuck and drill at low speeds until a neat hole is obtained.

To work with ceramics, we purchase special cups that differ from analogues for working with wood by sharpening. In addition, we use an electric drill, and not a puncher, since even a slight beating of the cup can lead to the formation of chips on the tile.

How to veneer slopes and window sill

So, we know where to start wall cladding and perhaps we can lay tiles on a vertical surface with our own hands. But, you need to remember that in the bathrooms there are niches or vents that also need to be lined.

I propose to consider the technology of facing slopes and small window sills.

Let's take a closer look at the steps listed in the diagram:

To finish outside corners tile cladding looked more accurate, a special plastic corner is used, which is installed at the junction of two planes located relative to each other at an angle of 90 degrees.

In our case:

• measure the sides of the window opening;

• according to the measurements made, we cut the corner and miter saw or with a hacksaw and a miter box;
• try on the cut corners to the opening;

• if the prepared corners are suitable, using grout to tile joints put them in place.

After the corners are installed, you will need to level the slope with putty.

Of course, you can do without leveling and immediately put the tiles. But without additional alignment, more glue will go away.

In addition, due to the thick layer of glue, it will be more difficult to set the tile in one plane, since when the solution dries, it will collapse or, on the contrary, protrude. The best option, in which the installation guarantees best result, is a layer of glue 3 mm thick.

In order to align the slope, we make a template, as shown in the photo, taking into account the thickness of the tile and the thickness of the adhesive layer. Next, a leveling layer of putty or DSP is thrown and leveled using a pre-made template.

Do not try to perfectly smooth the leveling layer. The presence of shells and microrelief is acceptable, since it will still be covered with glue and tiles.

After the leveling layer has completely dried, we measure the depth of the opening and cut the tiles according to these measurements.

We cut the tile in such a way that there is a margin that will go into the plastic corner. As a rule, 2-3 mm is enough for this.

We try on the cut fragments to the slope and if everything fits, we install the tiles on the glue.

Immediately, I note that if the work is done carefully, the fragments of the tile become almost close to the frame of the double-glazed window. As a result, the gap does not have to be sealed with silicone, it will be enough to press the grout and the seam will look beautiful.

Another point when cutting tile fragments, keep in mind that future seams should match the seams on the wall.

So, we decided on the features of facing walls and openings, it remains to find out how to lay tiles in the bathroom on the floor.

Features of laying on the floor

Laying tiles in the bathroom on the floor differs from similar work on vertical surfaces in the preparation of the mounting base and the thickness of the materials used. For floor cladding, special floor tiles with increased thickness and anti-slip coating are used.

Consider the steps listed in the diagram in more detail.

The first stage is the preparation of the mounting surface, and it is the quality of its implementation that determines how long the finishing resource will be. Execution instruction preparatory work next:

• We carry out the dismantling of the old coating, if any;
• We remove construction debris and dust formed during the dismantling of the coating;
• We install beacons on the base and draw out the cement-sand mixture (CPS) along them;
• A layer of coating waterproofing is applied over the DSP screed;

• On top of the waterproofing layer, we apply deep penetration impregnations that enhance adhesion.

• We start finishing the floor only after the walls are tiled;
• We set the lighthouses according to the level of the wall cladding, minus the thickness of the tiles and glue;

• To install the beacon by level, you can use construction waste, such as, for example, drywall fragments.

You can learn more about how to screed the floor in the bathroom in the advice articles on this blog.

Laying tiles

So, the screed dried out within a few days, which means it's time to find out where to start laying tiles on the floor?

We decide which part of the bathroom will be the most visible from the entrance. As a rule, this is the wall along which the washbasin is located, since the bathtub is most often located along the other wall.

Before starting laying, we check that there is a right angle between the matching walls. In our case, we check for right angle between the wall and the threshold line.

If, as in the photo, the angle is straight or almost straight, this will greatly simplify the installation. If the angle is not 90, but 80 or 100 degrees, the tile will have to be cut. The way out in this situation will be not the traditional, but the diagonal laying of tiles in the bathroom.

We draw a line from which we will begin laying along the wall. From the drawn line, we mark the screed along the wall according to the number of tiles that will be laid, taking into account the seams between them. Such marking is needed in order to start laying from the entrance to the opposite wall.

If the laying is carried out according to the previously made markings, we will be able to approach the wall, and the last tile will lie exactly on the drawn line. If we start facing without marking, we will get a skew, which on the last tile can be up to 5 mm.

After the markup is done, spread the glue and proceed to laying.

If a comb (notched trowel) with a tooth of 5 mm is used for wall cladding, then a comb with a tooth size of 8 or 10 mm is used for floor cladding.

We put glue on the surface of the screed and tighten it with a comb, which we lead at an angle of 45 degrees. The direction in which we comb does not matter.

Laying the first tile is always a crucial moment

Many tilers use rubber mallets, with which corners are tapped for optimal positioning of each cladding element. I don’t see much reason in using mallets, since when using properly prepared glue, you can position the tile with your own hands without additional devices.

You can check the evenness of the laying by applying a flat rail to the surface. However, there is an easier way - to run your hand over the cladding. Believe me, the slightest influxes and depressions will be noticeable to the touch.

Cheap ceramic tiles during laying can be moved for positioning for 10 minutes and no more. A good expensive cladding can be positioned for half an hour, that is, until the glue sets.

After the laying is completed, we fill the inter-tile seam. The grout used is the same as when finishing the walls, but on the floor we choose dark color, which will not get dirty so quickly.

Finally, I will answer a frequently asked question, namely, is it necessary to clad the screed under the bathroom if the floor is not visible all the time? There are many opinions about this, but I think that better tiles put all over the floor.

• First of all, cement strainer absorbs moisture and, on occasion, flooding of neighbors living on the floor below is not ruled out. Ceramics are hydrophobic and moisture will remain on the floor surface;
• Secondly, the bath can be oval, round or otherwise rectangular shape. As a result, leave the floor open to save finishing material it won't be easy.

Conclusion

Now you have general idea about how ceramic tiles are laid in the bathroom.

If you have any questions about the selection of facing material, glue and tools, write about it in the comments to the text. I will definitely answer all questions. By the way, I recommend watching the video in this article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Laying floor tiles on your own is a doable task, although not an easy one. Each stage, starting with the choice of material, requires a responsible attitude and care, otherwise it is impossible to achieve a high-quality result. The longest and laborious process- this is the preparation of the base, and the better the surface is prepared, the easier it is to lay the tiles on the floor in the bathroom. The technology of the cladding itself is not too complicated, and if you follow the instructions exactly, you can do an excellent job even with no experience.

Choice of tiles and related materials

The range of floor tiles is huge, and choosing right away is not so easy. Considering the samples, first of all, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• tile thickness;
• the presence of an anti-slip coating;
• resistance to chemical attack;
• moisture resistance.

The optimal thickness of the floor tiles is 9-12 mm; in terms of shape and size, it is best to choose square tiles 200x200 or 300x300 mm. There are many varieties of figured tiles, which look very impressive and unusual, but its laying requires high skill. For the same reason, a beginner should not choose options that, when laid, form a complex pattern - here you will need a very accurate calculation to fit the pattern, and with a lack of experience, this is not easy to do.

For beginners, it is better to choose classic tiles in the form of squares.

The water absorption of the material should not exceed 4.5%, the coefficient of friction, on the contrary, should be maximum - from 0.75. Such tiles remain safe after water gets on them, which happens very often in the bathroom. Information about technical specifications is always present on the packaging, so when choosing, carefully study the data.

And do not buy tiles if the seller cannot provide a quality certificate - all trustworthy manufacturers have certified products.

In addition to tiles, you will need to purchase glue, waterproofing materials, grout for joints. Glue is best taken on a cement basis: it is relatively inexpensive, easy to apply, provides excellent adhesion of the tile to the base and is not afraid of moisture. Popular options are Ceresit SM 11, Eunice Plus, webervetonite ultrafix.

It is most convenient to use waterproofing coating (for example, Perfekta AquaStop), plastering (Ceresit CR-65, Knauf FLACHENDICHT) or impregnating (Penetron). These formulations are easy to apply and form reliable protection from moisture penetration.

As for grouting, here you need to choose between cement and epoxy mixtures. Cement is cheaper, more convenient to apply, for a novice master best option. Epoxy compounds more durable and strong, but working with them is more difficult.

Floor preparation

Laying tiles should be done as evenly as possible. solid foundation. Cracks, chips, potholes and other defects should not be left, otherwise the new coating will become unusable very soon. First of all, you should carefully examine the floor and determine the degree of its unevenness. To do this, attach to the base building level in several places and measure the width of the gaps under the instrument with a ruler. If the deviations do not exceed 5 mm, additional alignment is not required - all irregularities will be hidden by the adhesive solution. In this case, the surface is simply cleaned of dust and carefully primed.

If the height differences are large, you need to visually determine the highest point of the floor and make markings around the perimeter of the room for pouring the screed. Marking must be done using a level, otherwise the floor may turn out to be sloping. Next, beacons are installed from the profile and a cement-sand mortar is poured. It takes, on average, about a month to dry the screed, and until it is completely dry, it is impossible to start finishing. If the tile is laid on a damp base, it will very soon begin to fall behind and may even burst under load, so it's better not to risk it.

After drying, waterproofing must be performed. Protective composition applied with a roller or brush to the surface of the floor, capturing the walls and a few centimeters. Corners and joints should be worked out especially carefully. By the way, many craftsmen do not use waterproofing, but prefer to treat the dried screed 1-2 times with a deep penetration primer. For normal use of the bathroom, this is quite enough, but in the event of flooding, water will easily overcome such a barrier and flow through the floors to the neighbors.

Video - Waterproofing the floor in the bathroom with your own hands

Choice of installation method

Before proceeding with the cladding, you need to choose for tiles best way styling:

• traditional - the tiles are arranged in even rows both horizontally and vertically. This option is the most common and easiest for a beginner. The tile is used, as a rule, square, although this method can be applied to rectangular tiles;

  

  

• diagonal - laying is done in even rows, but along the diagonal axes of the base. Such a coating looks attractive, but laying takes more time for trimming and fitting elements, in addition, more accurate calculations are needed;

  

• with offset - installation is carried out according to the principle of brickwork, that is, in each horizontal row, the tiles are displaced by half their width. Suitable for square and rectangular elements. Laying with an offset can also be carried out diagonally;

  

• herringbone laying - performed according to the type of parquet, suitable for rectangular tiles. This method requires a lot of time, precise calculation and skill;

  

• modular - cladding is done with tiles different sizes square and rectangular shape. For masonry, it is necessary to carefully select a pattern and draw up an accurate diagram indicating the dimensions of the elements and seams. The method is spectacular, but laborious, requiring a certain experience and skill;

  

  

• with a shift - when laying, each tile moves slightly vertically and horizontally at the same time, and the resulting gaps are closed with smaller tiles. It looks very attractive, but it requires precise fitting of the elements and a lot of time.

  

If there is no experience of such work at all, it is best to choose the traditional method - this way you will save time and minimize material consumption for trimming. But, despite the simplicity, you still have to try: on such a coating all defects in the seams are perfectly visible, therefore, when laying, you should exercise maximum accuracy and attention.

Tile laying technology

So, we have a flat, dry base for cladding. You can proceed directly to laying tiles on the floor, and how to do this, we will consider in the most detailed way.

For work you will need:

• construction mixer;
• two spatulas - regular and notched (with a tooth height of 8-10 mm);
• rubber mallet;
• long bubble level;
• plastic crosses for seams with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm;
• tile cutter or grinder.

Step 1. The tiles are laid out without glue on the floor in order to find the most optimal location and check the tightness in the corners.





For example, if the corners are uneven, the tile will have to be trimmed, which will require additional effort and time. It is impossible to fix such a defect in another way, so you should take care of the correct angles even at the stage of leveling the walls.

If the last tile does not fit completely in a row, it is better to move the tiles so that the same distance remains on both sides, and when laying, cut both extreme elements. So the lining will look much more aesthetically pleasing. Having decided on the location of the material, the outer tile is outlined with a pencil along the contour - according to this markup, laying will begin.



Step 2 The floor surface is treated with a waterproof primer with anti-mold additives. The primer can be applied with a wide brush or roller, the main thing is that there are no missed places. After that, you need to wait for the base to dry.

Step 3 Prepare the adhesive solution: in a bucket of water room temperature pour dry glue and stir until smooth with a mixer on low revs. If stirred at high speed, a lot of air bubbles, which will lead to the weakening of the adhesive layer and its shrinkage. Stir for a couple of minutes, then allow the solution to stand for 5 minutes, mix again. The exact proportions of water and dry mixture are indicated on the package, so read the instructions carefully before starting work.

Step 4 Gain glue with an ordinary spatula and apply it in a thick layer on the floor, without going beyond the marking lines. The application area must correspond to the size of one tile. Having leveled the solution, take a notched trowel and run it over the glue so that deep grooves form. Movements are performed only in one direction so that all grooves are parallel.





Step 5. They take the first tile, moisten it with water, and in the same way apply glue to its back side. Having drawn with a notched trowel, the tiles are laid so that the grooves intersect at right angles. This installation provides the best grip and allows you to easily cover small irregularities. The side edges of the tile must necessarily exactly coincide with the marking lines, and one side must fit snugly against the wall or bath screen. Firmly press the material to the floor, after which a bubble level is applied and the horizontal is checked. If necessary, the tiles are touched up with a rubber mallet.



Advice. Usually there is an arrow imprint on the back of the tile indicating the direction of laying. Even if the pattern on the front surface is difficult to see, chaotic, you should always place the tile so that the arrow is directed in one direction - this will avoid distortion of the pattern and give the cladding a neat look.



Step 6 The solution is applied again, this time it is possible for several elements at once, leveled and dispersed with a notched trowel all the time in one direction. They take the next tile, moisten it with a wet sponge from the back, cover it with glue. Having applied it to the surface, plastic crosses are inserted at the junction to ensure a uniform seam. Press, align horizontally. The level now needs to be applied immediately to both tiles at several points so that there are no differences in height between them.



Step 7 All other whole tiles are laid in the same way, and then the cut ones are fixed. In order to properly cut the material, a whole tile is applied to the remaining area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe floor between the wall and the cladding, and the cut line is marked with a pencil. Then, using a tile cutter or grinder, cut off the excess and lay the fragment on the glue.



Advice. Before applying the adhesive, carefully inspect the edges of the tiles: if they have chips, it is better to use such elements for trimming for corners and hard-to-reach places. On the open area these defects will be conspicuous and spoil the whole look.

Step 8 Having laid the first row, proceed to the second, observing the same thickness of the seams and constantly controlling the horizontal level of the coating. When laying, you need to move from the far wall to the doors, so that during the work you do not step on already glued tiles. It is very important to monitor the convergence of corners; for convenience, you can put an additional cross at the intersection of the seams. It is unacceptable that differences in height form at the corners - constantly check these areas with a level.



Step 9 After completing the installation, leave the room for a day so that the glue hardens well. After this time, the crosses are carefully removed and the excess mortar remaining in the seams is removed.

Step 10 After that, you can start grouting the tile joints - jointing. Grout mixture applied with a rubber spatula: pick up a small amount of grout and distribute along the length of the seam, carefully rubbing the mixture into the recesses. You need to work slowly, evenly filling the voids and removing excess mixture. In addition to seams, joints along the perimeter of sewer outlets are treated with grout.



Step 11 10-15 minutes after applying the grout, the treated joints should be wiped with a damp sponge to wash off the remnants of the mixture. Do not allow the solution to dry out, otherwise it will be much more difficult to remove it from the surface of the cladding. When cleaning the coating, the sponge should be rinsed as often as possible, and the water should be changed, otherwise white stains and stripes on the tile will remain.

Video - Grouting tiles

After about two weeks, the seams can be additionally protected with a waterproof compound that is applied over the grout. On this floor finish is considered complete, and if everything is done according to the rules, the coating will serve for years, retaining its original appearance.

Video - Laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom

Many owners of apartments and houses try to make repairs on their own, without involving hired specialists. Novice craftsmen who do not have experience in finishing work need detailed instructions on correct styling tiles in the bathroom with their own hands.

The layout of the tiles is the first thing that is determined after the selection and purchase of tiles. In most collections of ceramics, designers have proposed options for the location of the main tiles, panels, borders and decors. But each owner seeks to individualize the home, so he finds his own layout options that are best suited to this room and its interior.

With the wrong choice of facing pattern, laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands will be complicated by numerous tile trims. A beginner can make one mistake: start the layout from any of the corners of the room. In this case, the opposite may have a piece of tile, the width of which is less than ½ whole tile. This narrow line will bring disharmony to the design of the bathroom.

Correct layout options:

• The first tile is placed in the middle of the wall. Whole elements are also installed on both sides of it until they reach the corners.
• If, when applying the first method, narrow trimmings remain in the corners, not one, but two are laid side by side in the middle of the wall standing tiles. With this layout, it is much more convenient to correctly position the panels or decor lines.
• If it is not possible to avoid narrow stripes in the corners of the room, choose the "brickwork" pattern.
• Also, rows of tiles can be laid with an offset in each next by 1/3. Such a pattern looks impressive on large areas.

The layout can be vertical or horizontal. The most acceptable option is selected based on several criteria:

1. tile sizes;
2. tile pattern;
3. room dimensions.

With a horizontal layout, it is easier to avoid numerous tile cuts. If the bathroom has a ledge on which only one tile fits and there is still a small distance, you need to do the following: take 2 elements and cut them so that the seam between them runs in the center of the ledge on the wall.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

A do-it-yourself room begins with drawing up a work plan, calculating the required amount of materials and preparing tools. It is important to decide when the bath will be installed: before or after laying ceramics on the walls. The complexity of finishing works largely depends on this. Masters recommend installing plumbing equipment after finishing work. In order to do everything correctly, they are guided by further instructions.

Room preparation

Installing tiles requires preparation of the base. In the room, all old finishes are removed and plumbing is dismantled. Free the room from debris. The walls and floor are leveled as much as possible. If there are cracks, prepare a cement-sand mortar and cover them. The floor is leveled with special mixtures, which will facilitate laying the floor covering. When the mixture dries, apply a primer in 1-2 layers.

Preparation for laying tiles can be done by installing a drywall wall. This method is advantageous in providing a plane onto which the cladding can be easily and simply glued. In this case, the consumption of glue will be small, since there is no need for additional alignment.

Tile adhesive consumption calculator

Tools and materials

For beginners, it is important to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. At the stage of choosing the layout, the issue with the width of the gaps between the tiles is solved. Based on the choice made, they buy crosses for seams.

Then you need to choose an adhesive for. For internal works most often they buy "Ceresit SM11". This mixture is great for beginners, because it has elasticity, mixes quickly and does not seize within 10-15 minutes. This allows you to carefully align the tiles horizontally and vertically.

To perform finishing work in the bathroom, you will need the following tools:

• drill or screwdriver;
• construction mixer;
• container for mixing the solution;

• adhesive for tiles required volumes;
• spatulas: with metal serrated and straight blades, rubber;
• soft sponge;
• rags;
• roller or paint brush for applying a primer;
• moisture resistant soil;
• mallet;
• roulette;
• marker or pencil;
• bubble level;
• level;
• metal profile for work with drywall.

Dismantling of the old coating

Replacing a tile begins with the dismantling of the old cladding. This is not always easy to do. The tile can be firmly fixed on the wall and hardly knocked off with a hammer. In this case, a perforator is used and the stubborn areas are destroyed. The remaining adhesive is removed with a metal spatula.

If a old tiles laid a long time ago, under it there may be a metal plaster mesh. Metal shears are used to cut it.

Surface leveling

Preparation for laying the slab should begin with leveling the base. If, after dismantling the cladding, deep cavities remain on the walls that require leveling, you can choose any of the two options further action:

1. buy a plaster mix and cover the cracks;
2. sheathe the walls with drywall.

Each method has its own advantages. In the first case, with independent work, the skill of working with GKL is not required. To level the walls, it is enough to properly prepare the plaster mixture and apply it with a spatula. Careful leveling is not required, as small irregularities will be corrected with tile adhesive.

Proper waterproofing

During renovation, it is important to make high-quality waterproofing for the bathroom. The choice of materials that provide protection against moisture penetration is wide, these are:

• Coating mastics based on bitumen;
• penetrating solutions;
• Roll and pasting waterproofing.

For walls and floors, you can use the same or different mixtures. To a greater extent, the floor needs isolation from water. Experts recommend choosing a special mixture for concrete treatment that has a penetrating ability:

1. "Penetron";
2. "Lakhta";
3. "Hydrosmile";
4. "Isopron".

If the base is unstable, it is necessary to strengthen the joints of the walls and the floor, the steps, the threshold. To do this, lay elastic waterproofing tapes. Their function is to prevent the formation of cracks. You can choose from any of the following tape brands:

• "Idrobuild Giuntoflex 120";
• "Litoband-R";
• "Coverband";
• Mapeband.

Where is the best place to start

Laying bathroom tiles with your own hands will be easier if you install along the bottom line of the first row metal profiles. They will serve as a support for the tile and prevent it from slipping. In order to mount such a reference line, it is necessary to properly mark the walls.

Without level ( laser level) it will be difficult for a beginner to cope with this task. Proceed as follows:

1. measure the height of the corners of the bathroom;
2. find the lowest one and mark on it the place of laying the first tile (from the floor or from the level of the bathroom);
3. starting from this point, using a bubble level, draw horizontal lines along all the walls.

There are no rules regarding the choice of wall to start laying. Most masters prefer to start working from the level of the bath, gluing tiles around the perimeter of the walls. After the glue hardens, the metal profile that served as a support is dismantled and proceed to further finishing. Installing tiles over an existing first row will be easier.

We put the material

There are several ways to lay tiles, in which adhesive mixtures inflict:

• Only on the back side of the tile.
• On tiles and walls.
• Only on the wall.

The first option is acceptable for flat walls and is beneficial for a small mixture consumption. The second method is used if there are elevation differences on the base. The adhesive layer will be thick and will compensate for imperfections in the underlying surface. The third method is used by self-confident masters with extensive experience.

Before finishing, you need to resolve the issue of moistening the tiles and walls. You can do both at the same time, and this will be the best choice for porous tiles. Moistened, it will not draw moisture from the glue and the mixture will not dry out ahead of time. If we put porcelain stoneware or other tiles with low level water absorption, wetting of surfaces can be abandoned.

When the first few tiles are glued, they are left to set the composition. After that, you should check the quality of adhesion of the tile to the wall. If the result is satisfactory, Finishing work continue. By analogy, you need to lay out tiles in the bathroom on all walls. Installation of floor cladding is performed last.

Ceramic laying technique:

1. apply glue with a notched trowel;
2. apply the element to the wall and lightly press it down;
3. bubble level check horizontal and vertical deviations;
4. tapping with a mallet, give the tile the desired position.

Grouting, calculator

At the final stage, grouting is performed. For this, special slow-hardening mixtures are used. Grout can be dry or wet. In the first case, you will need to prepare a working mixture by adding water to the composition.

The grout is applied with a rubber spatula so that the seams are well filled. Important point- smoothing with a damp sponge. This gives the seams a neat look. It is necessary to correctly calculate the required amount of material. If there is not enough grout to complete the work, there is a risk of buying an analogue from another batch, which will differ in color shade.