An example of a wiring diagram. How to connect an outlet and a switch from one wire. A typical example of combining a socket and a switch in one block

You decide to lay your own new dacha wiring or upgrade the existing network in the apartment? Agree, in this area there are nuances that should be thoroughly dealt with for the sake of your own safety. In addition, a self-made electrician is required to ensure the flawless operation of the devices.

We are ready to tell you in the finest details how to connect a light bulb through a switch. In implementing such a solution, a number of proven techniques are used, which you will become familiar with while reading the article.

Here you will find a lot of useful information. Owning information will give both confidence and strength. Graphic materials and videos will help to thoroughly understand the issue.

Previously, before starting the installation of switches, lighting fixtures, their connection to each other and the network, it is necessary to de-energize the 220V power supply to that part of the home wiring where production is expected electrical work.

Tool to get the job done

During electrical work home master You will need a set of the following mounting tool:

1. Sharp knife.
2. Pliers (pliers).
3. Side cutters.
4. Slotted screwdrivers thin and medium, possibly Phillips medium.

Electrical tape may be required to insulate the wire connections inside the junction box or luminaire housing. In these cases, it is recommended to use HB tape. It does not melt over time and does not stick to the constantly heated contacts insulated by it, but only dries up. If necessary, crumbles well with pliers.

Before proceeding with the most simple installation, draw a wiring diagram for electrical appliances in a way that will be clear to you, and think over the procedure

It's great if there is a special one or wire cutters with slots for stripping insulation. In the absence of such devices and a large amount of work, you can do folk remedy, finalizing the side cutters.

To do this, file in cutting edges closer to the hinge, opposite cuts are made, which together should form a hole a little larger than the diameter of the bare wire strand.

For a new laying of home electrical lighting networks, it is recommended to use VVGng cables with single-wire copper, 1.5 sq. mm cross section, in non-combustible insulation of unequal colors:

• blue - zero working,
• yellow with a green stripe along - zero protective (grounding),
• any other color - phase.

During installation, it is desirable to observe a combination of uniformity of colors with their functional purpose. This requirement will secure and also simplify further maintenance of the electrical wiring.

When making a new wiring, wherever it is provided for by the design of electrical appliances, be sure to connect the neutral protective (grounding) conductor and do not use it for other purposes

In houses where the wiring is still aluminum, it is necessary to replace individual sections of the lighting lines embedded under the plaster with an APPV-1.5 wire having aluminum conductors or a similar cable when laid open. The same material is used due to oxidation of the aluminum and copper twist-to-twist inside the junction boxes.

If it is possible to replace the twists with terminal connections, copper wiring is allowed. It is strongly NOT advised to use any cables, wires with stranded (soft) conductors.

Branch box application

Cables, wires do not go directly from the shield to electrical appliances, from switches to light bulbs. All outgoing, incoming lines of electrical equipment meet in specific mounting nodes called junction boxes. There they are connected in a certain way.

If the design of the device allows, inside the switch itself, the phase wire is connected to the upper terminals, and all outgoing wires are connected to the lower contacts. This rule applies to the arrangement of any electrical installation.

Because of design features exception to general rules make up the through and cross switches, which are discussed below.

Varieties of household switches

Applied in modern home interior variety of switches. It introduces in detail the classification of light control devices posted on our website.

When choosing a home switch, pay more attention not to its design, but to functionality, fastening strength and reliability of electrical contacts.

By their difference functionality The following are the most common varieties:

1. One-gang switch– its mission is simple: “on/off”.
2. Two-gang switch allows you to control two independent lighting circuits at the same time.
3. Three-gang switch, respectively, coordinates the work in three directions.
4. Switch-regulator (dimmer) not only turns it on and off, but also smoothly adjusts the brightness of the lamps by pressing a button or turning a round knob that replaces it.
5. Switch with regulator- a two-, three-gang switch, which in steps, by switching the keys, controls the glow of all the bulbs at the same time.
6. Single pass switch. With a single key, it flips the phase between two wires. If voltage is applied to one, then it is disconnected from the other, and vice versa.
7. Cross single switch. By changing the position of the key, it synchronously changes the direct connection of two lines to a cross one.
8. Sensor switch. It has no levers - it starts and stops the supply of electricity by touching its surface with fingers.

The switch with a motion sensor lights the lamp automatically, reacting to the passage of a person.

Types of lamps for home use

Lamp progress does not lag behind switches. Their diversity is also impressive.

By purchasing energy saving light bulb, should focus on famous brands- after all, it should not only be effective, but also serve as long as possible

But even here some more popular types are defined:

1. Incandescent lamps- rooted home light sources in a rounded glass flask with vacuum and tungsten coil inside.
2. Halogen lamps- the same incandescent lamps filled with a special gas. It increases service life, minimizes the size of their flasks. The disadvantage is that during installation you can not touch the glass of the flask with your hands.
3. Fluorescent lamps daylight - not very common at home, but also traditional lighting devices (hereinafter simply "fluorescent lamps").
4. Energy-saving LED lamps, based on the name, use the glow of groups of LEDs. They can be fixed in conventional screw-in cartridges (hereinafter simply "LED lamps").

Energy-saving fluorescent light bulbs are increasingly replacing the usual ones. The principle of operation is similar to the action of fluorescent lamps. They are screwed in like incandescent lamps (hereinafter simply "energy-saving lamps").

Ways to power a light bulb through a switch

It is possible that some considered scheme of mutual connection of a household switch to a wall or ceiling light bulb will omit the details of supplying a zero protective (grounding) wire. It seems that its connection will not cause difficulties.

In a standard electrical cable, this is a core with insulation yellow color and a green stripe along. The place of its connection to the electrical appliance is indicated by the sign.

#1: The simplest lamp connection

The most elementary is the “on / off” connection of the lighting device to a single-gang switch with two wires. It is most suitable for a single single lamp luminaire.

When developing new switches, manufacturers adhere to standards - replacing a conventional “single-key switch” with an electronic device will pass without problems

When the old wiring has only two wires coming out of the ceiling or wall that feed the lighting fixture, and the alteration is difficult, you can connect a lamp with more lamps. But with this connection, all the bulbs of the lighting fixture will turn on at the same time.

Classical single-gang switch without upgrading the wiring, it is easy to replace the light dimmer switch (dimmer), made in a single unit. It is possible to purchase a device with a regulator like a key, or you can - in the form of a round knob.

The characteristics of the dimmer must correspond to the power of the connected lamp. The only thing is that it cannot be used in conjunction with lighting devices equipped with energy-saving, LED or fluorescent lamps.

For standard installation in conventional socket boxes, the industry has mastered the production of touch switches that have only “on / off” functions. They are also connected with two wires and can replace simple single-key ones.

# 2: Separate inclusion of chandelier lamps

Usually three- and five-arm chandeliers are designed so that the lamps can be connected separately or together in groups (1+2/2+1; 2+3/3+2). This allows you to adjust the illumination of the space by the number of simultaneously working light bulbs.

If possible, it is better to attach the ground wire to the chandelier directly, and not through the terminal block - this will increase the safety of the lamp

In this case, you will need a two-gang switch and electrical wiring with at least three wires. By turning on one of the two or both keys at once, the brightness of the lighting fixture will be adjusted.

It is also used to control from one point the lighting of two, most often adjacent, rooms independently, for example, a toilet and a bathroom, a hallway and a pantry.

If instead of the usual two-gang switch use a two- or even three-key chandelier with separate controls built into the keys, then all its lamps will burn at the same time, and it will be possible to control their incandescence in steps, by switching the keys.

#3: Five-arm chandelier control

Where it is necessary to separately and simultaneously control three independent lighting devices, a three-gang switch is installed.

When connecting the switch to the circuit, make sure that it is the phase wire that comes from the box - always try to put it on the top terminal

To surprise guests, you can connect a five-arm chandelier through a switch with three keys. True, a small alteration will be required on the terminals of the lamp itself. From a group of three line wires, one must be disconnected and used independently.

Then, by various combinations of pressing the keys of the three-gang switch, it will be possible to turn on simultaneously from one to five lamps (1+2+2/2+2+1/2+1+2).

#4: One lamp, two switches

What to do when the corridor is long and dark? This situation will help to resolve the installation of the lamp at once with two at different ends of the transition. The inconvenience of this method is the indefinite position of the on / off keys.

Another such method of lighting control is applicable when moving up the stairs, in an attached garage (entrance from the house, exit through the gate and vice versa). An additional switch near the sleeping area will not be redundant if the room is long enough.

When putting into practice non-standard schemes for connecting fixtures, you should make sure that they are appropriate, as this increases the length of the wires and the complexity of installation (+)

Is it possible to illuminate the flights of stairs independently of each other, going up or down the stairs? Additionally, you will need another single pass-through switch on the interfloor platform. By pressing just one key, it will simultaneously turn on the next lamp and turn off the previous one.

#5: Turning on the light bulb from different places

To control a luminaire from more than two centers, in addition to the walk-throughs, you will need cross single switches. Each new point - one at a time.

A lot of switches are convenient if living rooms open into a spacious home hall. The inhabitants of any room will be able to independently turn on the light at their doors, and turn it off in all other places equipped with auxiliary switches.

At proper organization places for installing additional switches, in addition to the convenience of using lighting, significant energy savings can also be achieved

This method is also expedient in rooms with a hotel-type layout - there are many doors opening into a long corridor.

#6: Connecting a chandelier with a fan

It is inconvenient to pull the pendant on a chandelier equipped with a fan to turn it on. It is also problematic when the ceiling is high.

It is easier to use the studied methods for separately connecting chandelier lamps. The fan is connected through one of the keys of a two- or three-gang switch.

In the first option, the lamp can only burn completely. In the second, the bulbs will light up in two groups.

#7: Built-in motion sensors

By itself, it is already a switch device. But we are interested in it, precisely when it has a standard case and can be mounted in a socket.

It turns out that it is connected to the gap of the phase conductor going to the lamp like a regular switch. But the problem is that for the inside electronic circuit such a device requires a full power supply of 220V, which means one more wire, blue, zero.

In accordance with the principles of connecting the luminaire, motion sensors (1) are connected through the switch. If there is a need for periodic continuous operation of the lamp, a switch (2) is included in the circuit. If one sensor cannot cover a large room, then several pieces are connected to the lamp. In this case, it is the sensors that play the role of a switch (3)

If you want to install a switch with a built-in motion sensor instead of a single-gang one, you can’t do without replacing the two-wire wire stretching towards it from the junction box to a three-wire one.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video will be presented practical techniques work.

VIDEO #1 will show an example simple connection switch and light bulbs:

VIDEO No. 2 will help you master the skills of connecting and insulating wires:

VIDEO #3 will tell you how to connect chandeliers and more:

Producers in one place do not mark time. All new, more ingenious lighting fixtures come up with them. But no matter how cosmic the lamp may seem, there is always an easy way to connect it. Basic schemes, rules for connecting light bulbs with switches, conditions safe conduct electrical work will remain typical for a long time.

Mandatory part repair work in the apartment - replacement or installation of electrical cables, junction boxes, electrical panel. A well-chosen wiring diagram will protect your home from accidents and unforeseen situations.

We will tell you what you need to provide for self-replacing or laying electricians. Here you will learn how to draw up a diagram and distribute electrical outlets in one-room, two- and three-room apartments. Based on our recommendations, you will be able to provide yourself with a trouble-free energy network.

Modern home technology at the end of the 20th century, they made a tangible breakthrough. In addition to televisions, computers, security and video surveillance systems, powerful household appliances, and wireless communications appeared in homes. In this regard, the wiring of electrical cables has become much more complicated, although the principles of the device have not changed.

Difficulties begin with the very first stage - design. In order to correctly draw up a wiring diagram in an apartment, you need to know in advance the approximate power household electrical appliances, their locations. At the same time, it is necessary to think over the lighting system in all rooms.

If you do not take into account the laying of a computer cable and the installation of a router for home network, in the future, get wires hanging on the wall or stretched along the floor. AT best case they can be hidden in the plinth or sewn into boxes

Except a large number New devices have another difference: along with the power network, there is always a low-current system, which traditionally includes telephone and television wires, as well as computer, security, acoustic equipment and an intercom.

These two systems (power and low-current) cannot be separated, since all devices are powered by 220 V power sources.

Wiring diagram low current system in the apartment. Includes three networks: computer, telephone and television. Each network has its own types of cable and equipment.

The number of devices and cables operated simultaneously has changed. If earlier it was enough to install one chandelier in the hall, now many people use a lighting system that includes, in addition to the chandelier, spotlights and lighting.

An increase in power must be added to the increase in the number of equipment - for this reason, the old cables are no longer suitable, and the dimensions of the electrical switchboard have grown noticeably.

What is a wiring diagram for?

It turns out that the device of modern electrical wiring in an apartment is a real art, which only a professional electrician can handle.

If you do not want to constantly change the wall decoration in order to mask cables that appear here and there, we recommend that before repairing an apartment or building a house, draw up a drawing indicating all significant objects related to electricity: sockets, switches, electrical panel with, lighting fixtures.

A sample diagram that a homeowner can sketch. Attention is paid to the designation of the locations of all electrical points, from the electrical panel to the sockets.

Focusing on the requirements or wishes of the owner of the property, the electrician makes circuit diagram electrical wiring in the apartment. His task is to divide the cables into groups in order to properly distribute the load, think over the control and protection system, and ultimately do everything to guarantee safety and comfort.

What must be taken into account when drawing up a diagram, drawing, work plan, necessary for competent?

Consider the power grid in terms of its constituent parts:

• Automatic protection devices installed in the electrical panel. from their quality and competent installation depends on the functioning home equipment and user safety.
• Cables, wires with a properly selected section and good insulation.
• Sockets and switches with high-quality contacts, safe cases.

In private houses, an obligatory element is an introductory machine and a power cable from it to the shield. With the help they regulate the power consumption and, if necessary, turn off all the electricity at home.

Approximate wiring diagram in a private house. The main attention should be paid to the distribution of power among the circuit breakers and the protection of each dedicated line.

The electric meter is usually installed at the entrance, cut after the introductory machine.

Separation of electrical wiring into groups (lines)

It is much easier to manage and control the power grid if it is divided into several lines. In the event of a malfunction or emergency you can turn off one group, while the rest will function normally.

Option for dividing into 4 groups:

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Stationary household appliances

Large household appliances are usually located in the kitchen or bathroom area.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen. Rules: it is forbidden to place sockets directly behind the dishwasher and washing machine; it is better to use waterproof models (+)

Separate connection kitchen area needed for repairs. If one of the devices fails, it will need to be replaced. In order not to turn off the electricity in the entire apartment, it is enough to turn off one protection device responsible for stationary equipment.

Unfortunately, even expensive household appliances fail from time to time. Repairs sometimes take several hours. A separate electrical group will allow you to maintain a comfortable stay in the kitchen and other rooms

What prevents you from simply unplugging a broken appliance from the mains by pulling the plug out of the socket? The fact is that for built-in appliances, the connection points to the power grid are located in hard-to-reach places.

In addition, a malfunction may not occur in the device itself, but in the wiring disguised in the wall. In this case, move the lever circuit breaker much easier.

Dedicated line for the kitchen

The kitchen line is traditionally the busiest. Approximately 5-6 units are constantly connected to the network, even if they are not involved. This applies to the refrigerator, oven, hob, dishwasher, range hood, microwave, toaster. Many people use a kitchen electric grill, meat grinder, bread machine, slow cooker, etc.

Electrical wiring diagram for the kitchen, divided into 4 groups. For powerful household equipment Separate circuit breakers are installed in the switchboard

In this case, a separate powerful electrical cable simply make it possible to use several devices at once.

If lighting fixtures or a water heater also “hang” on the common wiring, then when the next device is turned on, the network simply cannot stand it and an automatic shutdown will work.

A detailed analysis of the schemes and location options is given in the article, which we recommend that you read.

One or more lighting groups?

Given the number of lighting fixtures in each room, you can make one or more lines. If there is one six-arm chandelier in the hall, and low-power overhead lighting and two sconces in the bedroom, then all devices can be combined into one line.

However, if the living room resembles a disco hall - with chandeliers, spotlights, ceiling and wall lighting - then only a separate group should be organized for it.

Wiring diagram for 220 V spotlights or halogen fixtures for one room, for example, for a kitchen, children's room or hallway

If, in addition to lamps, transformers or power supplies are included in the network of one room, then it is also recommended to connect it to a separate protection device.

Rooms with high humidity

Increased requirements apply to electrical appliances and cables in the bathroom, since the close proximity of water is a risk. In order for the electrical network to be safe and functional, a number of rules must be taken into account when drawing up the diagram and installing the wiring:

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The requirements also apply to the choice of accessories that will have to be used regularly - sockets and switches. Assume that the degree of protection of sockets must be at least IP 44, and it is even better to purchase special devices with a splash-proof cover.

A three-core copper wire is quite suitable for installing sockets in a bathroom, but you should pay attention to the cross section: for connecting ordinary devices, it must be at least 2.5 mm², for powerful electrical equipment - 4 mm². Domestic version - VVGng

If grounding is not provided in the old housing in the apartment shield, then not only in the bathroom, but in the entire apartment, the wiring will have to be replaced with a three-wire one.

When choosing a cable section, it is necessary to take into account not only the wiring material (copper or aluminum), but also the laying method (open or closed), since closed wiring has less thermal conductivity, therefore, the current is also less (+)

According to the rules, if the intra-apartment networks are divided into groups, then each individual line must be equipped with a 25 A automatic machine. Therefore, when dividing into groups, we take into account the total rated current (no more than 25 A).

There are exceptions: for example, for lighting networks, a 16 A protection device is sufficient, but on condition that the group includes no more than 20 sockets and lamps at the same time.

What is the best connection scheme?

For a one-room apartment, two options are possible: meals from one group and meals from several groups. The first option in modern conditions practically not applicable, if only because to use even one powerful household appliance(For example, washing machine) a separate line with a protection device is required.

Such schemes may exist in apartments of the old residential sector, in which years repairs were not carried out, or in the country, where there is no powerful electrical equipment. It turns out that even for an electrical device in one-room apartment need to be divided into groups.

Approximate scheme for connecting electric points by groups. Three groups have been allocated for the kitchen, serving the electric stove, small household appliances and the lighting network

This scheme is practically applicable to any type of housing, but there will be more connection points, respectively, and lines in 2- and 3-room apartments.

Option #2: 2-, 3-room apartment

In principle, electrical wiring does not depend on the number of rooms, but there are a number of features that need to be taken into account:

• it is better to divide the socket network into several groups - by the number of rooms;
• the lighting system must also be divided into rooms;
• for the kitchen, at least three lines should be allocated - for lighting devices, powerful equipment and small household appliances;
• if the bathroom is separate, it is also better to use the division into 2 groups.

Given that big square apartments is typical for housing of the elite category; security equipment is included in the wiring diagrams.

Approximate scheme for installing protective equipment for an apartment with two rooms. It is assumed that in addition to socket and lighting groups, the apartment has a video surveillance system and a burglar alarm.

If specialists are involved in drawing up the diagram and installation, then at the end of the work you should also have a diagram - in case of repair or an unforeseen situation.

Scheme of installation of sockets and lighting fixtures in three-room apartment. When drawing up a wiring diagram for multi-room apartments, it is better to use several drawings, since it is difficult to designate all groups in one, including low-current

According to the developed scheme for laying power lines and installing electrical outlets, you can safely carry out installation. It is advisable to avoid changes in the planned wiring during the execution of the work. However, if they become necessary, the scheme must be adjusted taking into account the above rules.

When composing, be sure to indicate the input electrical equipment and cable parameters from the input group.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Conduct electrical network in the apartment, having protected all devices and correctly distributed the load, it is possible under one condition - if you are a qualified electrician.

It is not possible to work on the switchboard without a special permit. Therefore, you can change the outlet or connect the hood yourself, but more serious work it is better to entrust to experts.

Always before starting repair work in the room to transfer the switching points of the lamps, it is necessary to think over in advance the places for their installation. Work on the installation of switches and sockets must be accompanied by compliance with the rules safe work. If the room was in operation, it must be de-energized, the installation of wires should be carried out according to the approved scheme.

The solution to many issues in the repaired room is to connect a switching device (switch) of a chandelier or other electrical device from the socket. During the repair process, this method will help save on wires, on the time it takes to complete the work, there is no need to make additional strobes.

Mounting Features

When carrying out repair work in the room to install additional lighting in order to save labor load (no need to perform wall strobe), you need to know that for laying wires there are circuits for switching on the lighting device, which give an answer to the question of how to connect the switch from the outlet, but also in In this case, all works have their subtleties.

During the repair process, two-core or three-core electric wires, in which one core there is a phase, on the other zero, if there are three cores, then on the third one there is also grounding.

What material and tools are needed to carry out the work?

To carry out work on installing additional lighting in the room, you must have the following tools and consumables:

• a device with which you can de-energize an electrical circuit;
• electrical wiring of the same section and design (aluminum or copper core), which is located throughout the room, house or apartment;
• junction boxes in which we make the connection;
• a screwdriver with an indicator, shows the presence of a phase or its absence;
• pliers and side cutters, with which the connection will be made;
• electrical tape to cover the surface of the twists;
• fasteners and material for work on wooden surface(corrugation or metal strip);
• for mounting switches - socket boxes;
• if necessary, a strobe will need a puncher.

Set of tools

In addition to preparing the tool and the material needed for the work, it is necessary to initially draw a diagram of the electrical connection of the switch and determine the place where it will stand, as well as calculate the cross section of the conductors for additional load.

How to choose electrical wires?

1. You need to know how much power the lamp connected through the switch will be. Using the formula: power \u003d current × voltage, you can find the value of the rated current, in a single-phase network, the voltage is considered to be 220 volts.
2. Knowing the value of the rated current, according to the table, you can select the wire of the desired section.

How to choose the right switch?

In order to choose the right switch, you need to understand that its design includes a current collector and a circuit breaker. The industry offers the following types of such devices:

All enabling devices have same principle connections electrical conductors, but may have various mounts contacts with them, some products require special tool or Phillips screwdriver.

Scheme for switching on a circuit breaking device through a socket

In order to connect the switch using a socket, apply standard scheme inclusions. Important! The phase conductor always breaks in the breaker, and zero goes directly to the light source:

1. A junction box is installed, into which wires are brought from the existing outlet (you must first de-energize the room), the wires going to the switch, and the wire from the lamp.
2. We connect one core from the source of electricity consumption to zero, the phase must be put on the switch; if it goes through a junction box, then it is connected to the core from the switch.

In the presented diagram, the phase wire goes from the light bulb directly to the breaker, when it is in the “on” position, electricity is consumed, when in the “off” position, the load does not receive electricity.

How to choose the wire size?

Often electrical connection the source of energy consumption, for example, a sconce from an outlet, occurs to install additional lighting, in our case it can be one or more sconces, for this reason the current is low and it is possible to choose the wires of the desired section, but there are nuances:

• according to safety requirements and PUE, for these purposes it is impossible to use a wire with a copper core section of less than one square millimeter;
• and a wire with an aluminum core of at least two and a half square millimeters.

When choosing a wire, it is necessary to take into account how it is laid, so there are certain conditions for open laying:

• for a copper core wire, the minimum cross section is 1.5 square millimeters;
• the minimum value of the aluminum core is 4.0 square millimeters.

For laying wires outer wall the house or building has the following requirements:

• for wires with copper conductors - 2.5 square millimeters;
• for aluminum wire conductors - 4.0 square millimeters.

How to independently connect the light source from the switch?

One of simple ways, according to experts, is the inclusion of a wall lamp in the circuit through a switch powered by a socket using a neutral and phase wire, it is especially beneficial to do this when the lamp is located close to the switch.

To make this work, you need to do the following:

1. Conduct installation work to install the light source and switch, then carry out the steps to connect them.
2. From the outlet from which we will connect our voltage breaker, we remove the voltage using the machine in the shield (usually the wiring is carried out according to consumption groups), we check with a “probe” for the absence of a phase.

1. We open the socket; if the work on its connection is completed copper wire with a color difference, then:

• zero - blue wire;
• grounding - the second wire with double color(yellow-green);
• phase - the third wire, it can be brown.

If there is no color difference and the connection is successful aluminum wire, it is necessary to briefly apply voltage to the outlet and determine the phase of the wire conducting electricity with a “probe”.

1. We connect the wire from the switch to the socket phase (to its input), which is already connected to the breaker, and to the output from the switch.
2. When you don't know how, the solution is the same, but with the output of the interrupt device electrical circuit each phase wire goes to its own light source, or for a chandelier to its own power consumption bulbs.
3. We connect to the zero core of the socket neutral wire switch to the light bulb, if the socket has a ground wire, we connect it to the ground wire from the light source.
4. After that, the wiring is laid and all connections are insulated, as well as a test assembled circuit.

How to connect a socket-switch, which is assembled in a single housing?

When there is a socket in the bedroom or in another area of ​​the room, and you want to install a wall lamp or a floor lamp, you can use the socket-switch device, which is assembled in a single housing, this is done as follows:

• the socket has a regular connection, phase and zero; in new buildings, euro sockets are connected with a ground wire;
• we supply the phase to the input of the interrupter (switch), and from its output the wire goes to the lamp;
• two other wires (this is the neutral wire and ground) we make the connection directly to the lamp.

Understand what can't be done reverse connection, in other words, connect the outlet from the switch, it can only receive electricity from the machine in the shield of the house or apartment.

Conclusion

All wiring diagrams of the circuit interrupter (switch) do not have difficult decision, but rules must be followed electrical safety. Experts recommend planning and carrying out all work in stages, after completing the installation work, you can check the correctness of the assembled circuit, then apply voltage and check the circuit in operation.

The development of the electrical network indoors can be planned both during its initial design and during the operation of ready-made wiring. In any case, the connection between junction boxes, mounted socket boxes, switches - I want to do with minimal cost on the material. Disconnection of the power cable is not necessarily carried out exclusively in junction boxes, which are nodal splitters. For example, there are many ways to connect a switch from an outlet, and vice versa. Part of the switching can be done in any box, the main thing is that there is no danger of contact closure.

A typical example of combining a socket and a switch in one block

Often in a corridor or hallway, it becomes necessary to combine a connection point to the network (socket) and a switch of several lighting groups. This method solves several problems:

• An extensive socket network in the corridor is usually not needed: there are no constantly used electrical appliances. Nevertheless, there is a need to connect a vacuum cleaner, or a charger. In addition, in the hallway can be installed base unit radiotelephone.
• There is little space on the walls in this room; wardrobe cabinets, mirror, hanger. Part of the corridor is usually occupied by an input switchboard and a metering device (meter). Therefore, compact placement of switching equipment is a key issue.
• By combining the socket and switch, wiring is saved, no additional junction box is required.
• If you additionally connect a second device: a switch to an outlet, or vice versa, there is no need to damage the wall, organize a route for the power cable. The connection is made with minimal impact on the room.

As you can see in the illustration, to implement the entire scheme, you will need one circuit breaker (in the panel it can be called “corridor: lighting, socket”), and one junction box.

The zero bus N (blue) passes through a kind of transit to the lighting groups and to the outlet. Grounding PE is brought into the socket body, and (if one of the lighting groups is in the bathroom) into the lamp body. The phase after the machine, through the junction box is connected to the outlet. Disconnection takes place in the socket. In this case, any terminal block is used: for example, WAGO.

A small section of wire connects the phase terminal in the socket and the input terminal of the two-gang switch. Further, a phase is laid from the output terminals to each lighting group.

This scheme is usually used in the design, since you still have to lay cables on different groups lighting. If such a solution is optional, you do not install additional boxes. A hole for a switch or socket is made next to an already mounted device. It remains only to lay additional wiring.

If there is a need to separate the socket and lighting to different circuit breakers (for example, a power socket is used for a powerful electrical appliance), the phase is connected along different power lines.

It is not necessary to use an additional junction box, the phase wire passes through it in transit, without disconnection.

Tip: leave a loop in the junction box on each phase wire. With a future expansion of the network, you can cut the wiring, and use the pads to quickly organize the connection.

In any case, with this installation method, both wiring and wall space are saved. For example, let's see classic version connecting the socket and switch to the junction box.

Two cable routes are laid, the connection is in a junction box. Looking at the diagram, it becomes obvious that connecting the switch directly to the outlet is more rational.

How to connect a single-gang switch from an outlet

The classic option: a common zero bus from the junction box is brought to the light point.

Grounding (when used) enters through the same cable channel. But the phase wire directly to lighting device does not go. A single-key switch (being in the same housing with a socket) breaks the circuit between the phase contact in the socket and the light point. Pretty common pattern. Such a block can often be found in lighting stores.

Another application of such a module is a switchable outlet. Let's say you have an electrical appliance that should be turned off at night, or when you leave the room. It could be a Wi-Fi router. The block itself is located high, it is not always possible to use the regular power button. By clicking the switch, you will de-energize the equipment without touching the machine in the switchboard. Or vice versa: the device must be powered at certain conditions. For example, alarm power.

In this case, the phase wire inside the unit is simply opened by a switch, and the power wiring is connected as to a regular outlet.

If a switch is added to an existing outlet

Minimizing the consequences - replacing the outlet with a block. The procedure itself is simple, we drill a hole for the box next to it, and carefully mount the new module.

The incoming power cable does not need to be wound, it is already in the socket. But the output wiring, to the lighting device, will have to be stretched. This is an individual solution universal way no. The connection diagram is very simple: both the neutral and phase wires are laid not from the box, but from the socket.

Naturally, you will have to install contact pads. Although many connect the output wire directly to the socket contacts: some models allow such a connection.

If there are several outlets in the group, replace with common block(socket - switch) you can use any of them. You simply choose a convenient place (from which you can stretch the wire to the lamp), and connect the switch to the outlet.

If necessary, organize an additional light point in the hallway, you can use wall sconces. They are located in close proximity to the "socket - switch" block, and you do not have to destroy big piece wiring walls.

General safety rules

Of course, before starting such work (especially on finished system power supply), de-energize the line and check the absence of voltage. The selection of a power cable will not cause difficulties: a cross section of 1.5 mm² is enough to organize lighting. Since we are connecting the switch to the socket, and not vice versa, the primary (outlet) cable will be more powerful: 2.5 mm².

Is it possible to connect a socket to the switch

Imagine the situation: you have completed repairs in the room, all the electrical wiring is walled up in the walls, and there are no backup boxes or sockets. In one of the rooms you need to install an outlet. To place it next to the junction box is irrational, the location is too high. And I don’t want to lay open wiring (especially, ditch the wall).

In a convenient place is a switch, which clearly has voltage. How to make a socket from a switch, if it is possible to aesthetically place them side by side?

To answer this question, let's remember: what are the lighting schemes with switches.

Classical inclusion: branch from a junction box.

The neutral conductor is brought into the lamp from the box. In the box itself, a break in the phase cable is organized (it opens with a switch), then the phase enters the lamp along the same path as zero.

With such a scheme, in the case ( mounting box) of the circuit breaker, only the phase conductor is present. It will not work to organize a closed electrical circuit for connecting an additional electrical appliance (through a socket). You can use the phase from the switch, but you still have to lead zero from the junction box, which makes the idea pointless.

Conclusion: With such an organization of lighting, it is impossible to connect the socket to the switch.

The switch is located between the power source and the lighting fixture.

This scheme is less common, but in some rooms it is used. If at the design stage it was decided not to use junction boxes in the lighting network, you are in luck. In the mounting box of the switch there are both neutral and phase wires.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• We dismantle the current switch without touching the mounting box.
• We determine the routes for laying the input and output cables. If you have a diagram and a plan for the power supply of the room, this is not difficult to do.
• Carefully drill a hole for the socket.
• We mount in the switch box terminal blocks, and connect the outlet according to the following scheme:

Safety regulations:

Since the current wiring is intended for lighting, most likely the cable cross section is no more than 1.5 mm². The maximum possible load for such a cable (provided that it is copper): 3.3 kW. That is, not too powerful electrical appliances can be plugged into this outlet. The maximum is a vacuum cleaner. well and charging device for phones, the power supply of a router or an antenna amplifier - no problem.

Outcome

Power network expansion in separate room, due to disconnection in existing switching devices is possible. As a rule, a switch is connected to an outlet. The reverse situation is possible only with a certain wiring diagram.

Related videos

A socket, a switch and a lamp are the main components of any electrical wiring in an apartment, private house, garage or other office space. Therefore, every prudent homeowner must know how to connect the circuit of all devices during repair work or the construction of a new structure with their own hands, including those combined, which are combined in one building.

Not so long ago, connecting the wires from the switch to the electrical circuit alternating current was carried out randomly. Therefore, in houses of old buildings, most of these electrical circuit devices still remain connected in violation all safety rules. Naturally, this did not affect the operation of the switch itself, but the safety of operation of such a device remains in great doubt.

Recently, to save wires and wall space, manufacturers electrical appliances began to combine and combine several devices in one case. Wherein most often combine a socket and a key switch as thanks to this connection scheme it is achieved maximum efficiency and ease of use of such electrical appliances.

Connecting a combined socket and switch: basic options

Today, you can consider several options for how to connect a combined socket and switch. At the same time, quite recently it was difficult to find several electrical appliances of different functionality in one building in an apartment.

Therefore, the connection diagram of the socket and the switch was carried out by connecting the wires in the junction box without combining these devices. Now this option is applicable if for some reason it is not possible to install such consumers one next to the other. Although the separate connection of the socket and switch has its positive aspects.

1. Due to the availability of such devices you can buy the cheapest socket and switch and connect them by combining them in one circuit.
2. The ease of connecting such electrical appliances allows you to do all the work yourself.
3. Due to the separate connection of the socket and the switch, the safety of using such devices increases, since the wiring to them is laid separately, which reduces the chance of a short circuit.

But recently, apartments have increasingly begun to use special blocks in which manufacturers have combined an electrical outlet and a switch. At the same time, the connection diagram of such a device has been greatly simplified. First of all, this is due to the fact that no need to run two separate wires to every consumer. In addition, there are other advantages of such a block:

• if necessary you can easily move the unit to another location, without the need to lay two separate wiring;
• there is no need to separately measure the installation height of the socket and switch, since both devices are combined in one housing;
• thanks to high quality such devices they are used both inside and outside the premises;
• it is convenient to install the combined block on any surfaces, both stone or wood, and concrete or plasterboard.

The only significant drawback of such a combined block is the inability to replace one element, failed - sockets or switches. In most cases you will need complete replacement devices. At the same time, modern blocks are produced with one-key, two-key or three-key switches, combined in one housing with a socket.

Connecting a socket switched via a switch

by the most simple option how to connect a socket, combined in one housing with a single-gang switch, is to connect all the wires of the mains and devices according to the diagram in the junction box. At the same time, there is a clear sequence for carrying out such work.

Such a system combined in one housing functions quite simply. When the switch is turned on, phase is supplied to the outlet through the switch. Such a scheme is effective, for example, if you need to connect lighting through an extension cord to utility room, and turn it off with a single-button switch.

Installation of a combined unit with a single-gang switch

Modern blocks that combine a socket and a single-key switch in one housing are very popular, while each device will be used separately. To install such an outlet with a light bulb switch, there are a number of simple manipulations.

1. A phase and zero are laid from the central shield to the junction box.
2. Also, the junction box should include: a pair of wires from the light bulb and three from the block in which two separate devices are combined.
3. The phase core from the shield is connected to the wire going to the socket, which, in turn, is connected to the terminal on the switch using a jumper.
4. The zero wires of the bulbs and sockets are connected to the zero of the central electrical network.
5. The remaining two phase wires from the light source cartridge and switch are twisted and insulated.
6. If grounding is provided in the block, then you need to worry about connecting it with an extra wire.

Thanks to this scheme, the socket, combined in one housing with the switch, will work independently of the switch, which, in turn, will perform its main functions of turning the light bulb on and off.

Wiring diagram for socket-switch block with two keys

Basically, blocks that combine a socket and a switch with two keys installed on the partition between the doors to the bathroom and toilet. With the help of only one block, it becomes possible to control the light in two rooms and connect any consumers of electricity to an AC outlet.

As you can see, the connection diagram of a single-key and two-key switch, combined in one housing with a socket, differs only in the number of wires. In the first case, four wires are used, including ground, and the second option provides for five conductors.