How to install a wall-mounted toilet - we save space correctly. Installing a hanging toilet with your own hands How to install a hanging toilet

Greetings, my dear readers.

The topic of this article: " Installation of a wall hung toilet«.

Buying an apartment in a new building or spending overhaul your home, sooner or later the question arises of choosing a new plumbing.

Scientific and technological progress fills the modern life of a person various equipment and equipment. indispensable item toilet room- the toilet is also modernized. The new kind and the design of the equipment will fit perfectly into any interior. Therefore, consumers are increasingly preferring a wall-hung toilet.

Despite the fundamental change in the appearance of the toilet bowl, the object has not undergone innovation in its main functionality, but the systems for collecting and draining water have been thoroughly modernized.

The plumbing item is made in such a way that during installation all elements are hidden, with the exception of the toilet bowl. Cistern installed in the wall, and the liquid drain button goes out. This installation is called hidden installation.

Hanging toilet bowls are divided into two types according to the method of attachment:

Block installation

If you plan to install a toilet bowl on a load-bearing wall, then the equipment can be installed using a block installation. To do this, you need metal plates and anchor bolts. After installing the communications and the drain barrel are hidden behind a false - a wall made of drywall.

Frame installation

to install wall hung toilet do-it-yourself on a non-bearing wall made of drywall or other material, installation is carried out using a metal frame. Steel pipes welded together are attached to the wall and floor. The main load of the frame is determined on the floor. This type fasteners are designed for loads up to 400 kg.

Toilet bowls suspended type vary in size:

small (length 50 - 54 cm);
medium (length 54 - 60 cm);
large (length up to 70 cm).

Width, as a rule, varies from 30 to 40 cm. The most best option for most consumers - the average toilet. small and big sizes less popular, but also in demand.

Producers represent the lineup and more expensive copies with additional features.

Anti-splash system provides for a certain protrusion in the design of the bowl - a shelf that prevents splashes during operation.

microlift system thanks to the smooth lowering of the lid, it helps to prevent blows to the toilet body and avoid any damage to the integrity of the device.

Backflow helps maintain cleanliness and hygiene, water flushing occurs under the rim washing away unwanted dirt.

Anti-mud coating an additional layer on the inside of the bowl, prevents the formation of yellow spots and rust, facilitates the cleaning process.

Rimless design without any bends eliminates hard-to-reach places where microbes hide, allows you to easily clean.

drainage system completely cleans the bowl with two nozzles located on the sides, through which water flows for flushing.

Scheme of installation of a suspended toilet bowl

Before proceeding directly to the consideration of the installation method of hanging toilet bowls, look at the installation diagram, thanks to which you will see the main dimensions.

How to install a hanging toilet on the installation - video

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet for installation

An installation is a structure on which a wall-hung toilet is installed. Acts as a bowl holder, plumbing inlets and, on some models, holds the cistern. Available as a set with a toilet bowl, or separately.

Manufacturers present installation options with bowl height adjustment, which allows the consumer to individually set the toilet to the desired level.

The installation system is divided into several types:

standard: width 50 cm, height 112, depth 12 cm.
low: if you plan to install in a place with a limited height, for example under a windowsill, the height of the installation is up to 82 cm
bilateral: provides for the installation of a toilet bowl on both sides
angular: the frame is installed in the corner of the room
linear: used when installing multiple plumbing fixtures such as toilet bowl, bid

To perform the installation of a wall-hung toilet, you will need a set of tools:

hammer drill or hammer drill
drill bit for concrete and brick with pobedit coating
screwdriver with bits
building level or laser axis builder
anchor bolts

You should open the package and check the toilet for integrity, the absence of cracks and chips, as well as completeness. The box should contain assembly instructions and a product passport, in which all the elements included in the kit are registered.

If necessary, by turning off the water supply tap, carry out dismantling works removing an old toilet.

Before proceeding to the installation installation, it is necessary to check whether all communications (sewer pipe, water supply hose) are connected for further connection.

Step 1

The first step is to install the frame. The place for mounting the frame is determined, in without fail on a load-bearing wall. Quality installation required frame structure, since the reliability of all equipment during further operation depends on it. Using a laser axis builder or building level, horizontal and vertical lines are determined for a clear installation of the frame.

A marker is applied to the wall through the holes in the frame. Holes are drilled in the place of fastening with a puncher or drill in impact mode. Steel frame is installed and fastened anchor bolts under strict level control.

Step 2

The next step is to work on connecting to the water supply. Tank valve throughout installation work must necessarily be covered.

Step 3

The installation is then connected to sewerage. There are several connection options, the most common using a special corrugation for connecting toilets.

Step 4

Once the installation is installed, the next step is to decoration- hiding communications by creating false - walls made of plasterboard or other material, followed by tiling.

Step 5

When the wall is completely ready, the toilet bowl is hung on special studs. After complete connection, the water supply tap opens. Held visual inspection for the presence of a leak.

How to install a hanging toilet with your own hands - video

Installation of a toilet bowl without installation on a concrete base

There is another option for installing a hanging toilet that does not require installation. In this case, fastening is carried out on concrete base. This way is more budget option, but requires additional work on the arrangement of the necessary foundation.

Step 1

Wooden formwork is being assembled. On the front part, it is necessary to pre-mark and drill the attachment points of the bowl, through which a mark is applied to the wall through the formwork. Further, holes are drilled in the wall into which a chemical anchor is poured. This action will allow the metal pins to be fastened to concrete and brick by the force of cohesion and adhesion.

Step 2

Through the formwork, pins of the required length are inserted into the wall with a chemical anchor and pressed against the wall with nuts. wooden formwork. On the front side, it is necessary to glue a small piece of foam, which will later be removed, and the recess remaining after it will serve as a place for the coupling.

Step 3

It is poured into the formwork cavity concrete mortar(about 40 liters) and left to dry completely (about a week). After freezing, wooden shields are removed, there remains a monolithic base with knitting needles for hanging the toilet bowl. The foam is removed, a coupling is installed in the recess, connecting the pipe and the sewer drain.

Installation in progress drain barrel, the wall is being made decorative trim and the system is tested for functionality.

Advantages and disadvantages of hanging toilets

Hanging toilets are gaining popularity due to their main advantages over:

non-standard appearance allows you to create exclusive interior in room
thanks to structural features saves space
hidden installation of all communication pipes and hoses will give the bathroom a more aesthetic appearance
free access to flooring facilitate cleaning work

At in large numbers positive characteristics the hanging toilet is endowed with some disadvantages:

higher price for a range of suspension systems
rather complex installation, requiring skills in this work
hidden communications create difficult access for maintenance

Conclusion

Despite the negative characteristics of hanging toilet models, homeowners prefer to design a bathroom, replacing the usual floor version, non-standard solution.

In the presence of required set tools, work experience, knowledge and skills wall hung toilet installation you can do it yourself and save money family budget on expensive services of masters.

Subject to the rules and regulations of installation, the new wall-mounted toilet will last for many years.

All success!

The installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl can be done in different ways: on a manufactured concrete base, on a finished factory installation. In our article we will tell you how to install a wall-mounted toilet with your own hands, for both methods.

Before you start installing a wall-mounted toilet, you should perform some auxiliary work that will guarantee the reliability and strength of the plumbing fixture.

What's included in a wall hung toilet

In addition to the toilet itself and the cistern, the kit includes a reliable steel frame, which provides for the ability to adjust the height. This frame must be securely fastened to the floor and to the wall, which must be of durable material(brick, concrete). On the walls of drywall, such a design cannot be fixed. After installing the steel frame, the toilet bowl is hung on special pins;
Special plastic water tank, additionally insulated with Styrofoam to protect against condensation. The drain tank is also fixed on a steel frame. On the tank there is a special hole-cutout, which serves to install a push-button system for draining water. If there is a need for maintenance and repair of this mechanism during operation, it is easy to access through this cutout. Modern models tanks are equipped in order to save money with two buttons for dosing the drain: when you press one button, only three liters of water are drained, and when you press the other, six liters of water are drained;
Also included is a complete set of mounting hardware and special tools for him. Upon delivery, it is imperative to check the integrity of the packaging, as in the absence of small parts during the installation process, there will be problems with the assembly.

Note! After the installation of the wall-mounted toilet bowl, only the toilet bowl itself remains visible.

The process of installation on the finished installation

This installation method will cost a little more than the second method, but its advantages are that installation for installation is more stable and the process takes much less time.

To on their own place a hanging-type toilet, you should carefully study all the main stages of work:

the first step is to install the steel frame, fixing it with dowels to the wall and floor. Before installing the installation, it is worthwhile to foresee the supply of everything to this place. necessary communications: water supply and sewerage. The correctness of the installation is checked by the building level. Then, at a convenient height, the placement of the toilet bowl is adjusted, usually this distance is about 40-45 cm;
at the next stage, water supply is connected to the drain tank. By type, eyeliner can be both rigid and flexible;
now you can start connecting to the sewer system. To do this, the outlet of the toilet bowl with the help of a special one is fixed on the outlet of the sewer. To check the tightness of the connection, it is recommended to make a control drain of water;
the place of fixing the steel installation is sewn up with details from. Best Option for this will be the use of special waterproof drywall. Details are fixed on a steel frame and profile;
The final step in installing a wall hung toilet is to install the toilet bowl. To do this, it is enough to put the toilet bowl on special studs available on the metal frame of the installation.

The process of installing a toilet bowl on concrete

After acquiring a model of a wall-mounted toilet bowl, before installing it, you should decide what is the best way to carry out its installation. Maybe for you the best choice the toilet will be installed on a concrete base.

Choosing this installation option is cheaper, and will suit someone who hopes to save money on installing this toilet.

Let's take a closer look at the stages of performing such work:

first of all, you will need to fix the rods on the wall, on which the toilet will be hung. After the final installation, this design can withstand a load of up to 500 kg;
the next stage of work is to install the drain coupling. After installing the coupling, adjust the height of the toilet bowl. If necessary, extra centimeters are cut off. Then we carry out the formwork;
after that, on the formwork, we outline the places for the future connection.

Let's analyze all the stages of the work in order:

First you need to fix in concrete or brick wall metal rods, on which the toilet bowl will subsequently be fixed. Such a structure is quite strong and can withstand loads up to 500 kg;
At the second stage, the coupling for flushing water is installed, after which a convenient height of the toilet bowl is selected. Next, the sleeve is cut to size and auxiliary formwork is performed;
On the formwork, places are planned for future connections with the toilet. Calculation of the distances between the holes should be done very carefully. In order to correctly select the length of the rods for installing the toilet bowl, you should measure the distance from the installation site to the wall, taking into account the length of the penetration into the wall. To fix the rods in the wall, use an adhesive for concrete;
After installing the temporary formwork and securely fastening the rods, you should try on the placement of the toilet bowl. This is done in order to check the alignment of the rods and holes on the toilet, so that later during installation there are no additional problems;
Installation of a pedestal for a wall-mounted toilet is completed with concreting. To prevent the drain sleeve from moving during concreting, you can additionally drainer lay with foam.

After the concrete has dried and the formwork has been removed, you will end up with a monolithic block with a hole for draining water and rods for fixing the bowl. Also, if you need to use the complex treatment plant, this site presents TOPOL-ECO products where you can choose the necessary equipment.

Benefits of a wall hung toilet

Modern models of wall-hung toilets fit perfectly into separate bathrooms and combined with a bathroom. Such models of toilet bowls look more modern and stylish, at the same time they perfectly fulfill their intended purpose.

After correct installation wall hung toilet bowls withstand loads up to 400 kg. Obese people can safely use wall hung toilets.

Models of the bowl of hanging toilet bowls are developed taking into account various improvements, which significantly adds comfort and convenience during operation.

Additional water dividers are built into the design of the hanging toilet bowl, which provide a good washing of the entire inner surface bowls.

The special installation of the wall-mounted toilet bowl allows easy access to all elements of the toilet bowl and the floor covering during cleaning.

Note! Some experts voice such an advantage of a hanging toilet that with its installation it is possible to expand the space in the bathroom. This statement is not entirely true, since some space is required to accommodate the installation.

More recently, wall-hung toilets were used to equip bathrooms in luxury apartments, so they were distinguished by a high price. The modern construction market today offers big choice models of this type.

Now the price of such toilets has dropped significantly, although wall-mounted toilets are still much more expensive than conventional ones. More and more buyers, when replacing plumbing, prefer hanging models.

When installing such a toilet model with your own hands, you can save some amount of money. If such a task is up to you, then we, in turn, wish you a successful installation of the wall-mounted toilet bowl.

Important! If you doubt your abilities, it is best to turn to specialists in a company that has been installing plumbing for a long time and can offer a guarantee for its services.

Toilets with installation are real aristocrats in the world of plumbing. These are comfortable and compact devices, usually different great design and at a price that is not sparing to its owner. In addition, the installation of a wall-hung toilet is a rather complicated task, it requires very careful execution.

And yet, the ranks of adherents of toilet bowls with an installation are steadily growing. Many home craftsmen, after studying the recommendations and instructions, successfully cope with the installation of this difficult structure on their own.

It is only important to correctly perform each stage of installation work.

A hanging toilet is much more complicated than a conventional compact or monolith. The installation is called a solid metal frame. This frame is installed inside the wall niche and securely fixed to the wall and to the floor.

There is some space between the bowl of the wall-hung toilet and the floor. It is easier to clean the bathroom in such conditions, since there is no toilet leg

The flat plastic tank is already attached to the frame. Then the necessary communications are brought to the niche, finishing is done and the toilet bowl itself is hung.

The toilet remains outside, and the rest of the filling remains hidden in the wall. A flush button is also displayed on the wall, which is usually located on the wall above the bowl. Even from this concise description, it can be understood that the installation of such a device is a laborious process.

But still, the model with the installation has many advantages:

aesthetic appearance and attractive design- the bowl seems to float above the floor;
compact dimensions, leaving a wide scope for placing the toilet in both small and large bathrooms;
the absence of a leg makes it much easier to clean the room;
the design of the installation is universal, it is possible to choose some elements to your taste and budget;
frame and tank failures are extremely rare, and repairing or replacing a drain button is usually not difficult.

Bowls of hanging toilet bowls differ markedly in configuration, device, shape, size, design, color and other characteristics, which leaves a wide scope for choosing the right plumbing

Among the shortcomings, it should be noted high price. Including installation costs, the cost of such a toilet can be twice the cost of a standard floor model.

However, manufacturers take into account the growing popularity of suspended plumbing, so relatively inexpensive models. Another drawback is that the tank and frame, hidden in the wall, are not too accessible for repairs.

In the event of a serious breakdown, you may have to turn the entire wall around and redo the Finishing work on this area.

Materials and tools

To install a toilet bowl with the installation of a built-in toilet bowl, you must purchase the following items:

installation frame with a plastic tank;
a bowl of a hinged toilet bowl;
flush button;
toilet studs;
a set of nozzles for connecting a bowl with a tank, etc.

The installation is usually supplied complete with a flat plastic tank, as well as adapters, nozzles, fasteners and a flush button. The kit usually includes a special material that protects the structure inside the wall from the effects of condensate, and also reduces the noise level from the operating tank.

When buying, you should carefully check the kit in order to immediately purchase the missing items. The toilet bowl is also purchased separately. The dimensions and configuration of the installation, as well as other details, are standardized, so they can be changed if desired.

For example, you can choose the new dual flush button, which saves water.

The diagram clearly shows the installation device with a plastic flush tank and the necessary connectors, which is designed to install a wall-hung toilet

To complete the installation, you will also need a number of tools, primarily a hammer drill and concrete drill bits that match the fasteners. You also need a building level, open-end wrenches, a tape measure, a pencil for marking, a knife for cutting drywall, etc.

The procedure for installing a wall-hung toilet

Schematically, the procedure for installing a toilet bowl with an installation can be represented as a series of basic steps:

Make a niche in the wall of a suitable size.
Bring the sewer to the niche.
Carry out installation of the installation frame.
Lead to the place of installation of the cold water supply pipe.
Connect the toilet bowl.
Close the niche, install the flush button and finish.
Hang the toilet by connecting to the tank, as well as to the sewer.

You will also need a certain amount of drywall, both for installation and for finishing work.

Each stage of the installation of a wall-hung toilet requires close attention. The service life of the device, the number and nature of breakdowns largely depend on the quality of the installation work.

The results of even minor errors made during the installation process may not become apparent immediately, but only during operation. Repairs can be very costly and time-consuming, so it’s better to install all the elements of this device right away than to redo it later.

A detailed installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet is presented in the following video:

Niche for installation

To create a niche and install an installation, only walls with an appropriate bearing capacity. The installation is able to withstand a weight of about 400 kg, and part of this load falls on the wall. Therefore, it would be unreasonable to put a wall-mounted toilet on a drywall wall, it can simply collapse.

So, to install the installation, you need to hollow out a niche in the wall with the following parameters:

height - 1000 mm;
width - 600 mm;
depth - 150-200 mm.

Sometimes depth requirements are not easy to meet. In this case, the niche is made to the possible depth, and its disadvantage is hidden with the help of drywall and finishing.

Thus, there is space for experiments in the field of interior design. For example, you can make a built-in wardrobe in the space between the ledge that appears and the wall, or hang open shelves there.

But the idea of just putting the frame along the wall, and then completely sheathing it with drywall does not make much sense. In this case, it is easier and cheaper to put an ordinary compact in the same place, which will take up the same amount of space or even less.

If the bathroom already has a niche for plumbing and sewer communications, it makes sense to install the installation in it

Upper floor residents apartment buildings sometimes installed in the niche of the fan riser. At the same time, part of the fan riser is cut and installed air valve where the outlet to the attic is located.

In some bathrooms, a niche for communications is provided for by the project. It can also be used to install the installation, but some modifications may be necessary, for example, changing the position of water pipes and moving the sewer riser.

If experience in performing such operations at home craftsman no, it is better to consult with a specialist or even entrust him with this part of the installation work.

Sewerage supply

Before installing the frame, it is necessary to take care of the correct supply of the sewer pipe to the installation site. You will need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. It should be laid as close to the floor as possible, while it is imperative to maintain the correct slope.

The connection point must be 250 mm from the center of the wall niche. An oblique outlet with an angle of 45 degrees is put on the horizontal part of the pipe. After completing these operations, you can proceed with the installation of the installation.

Installation of a frame with a tank

Four points are provided for mounting the toilet installation. In two places the legs of the frame are fixed to the floor, and in two more places the frame is fixed to the wall with brackets. In this case, it is imperative to use the building level so that the structure is perfectly level both vertically and horizontally.

If the installation is installed even with a slight distortion, interruptions may occur in the operation of the internal mechanism, which will lead to an early breakdown of the structure. To align the vertical position of the frame, use adjustable legs.

The horizontal position is set using wall fixings, whose position can also be changed as needed. Once the position of the installation is accurately aligned and fixed, it can be screwed to the wall. To make the frame more stable, the legs can be additionally cemented.

A screed layer 20 cm high will be sufficient, but this measure is not mandatory.

The height of the legs of the frame designed for the wall-hung toilet can be adjusted. This allows you to set the structure horizontally strictly according to the level

At the bottom of the installation there are several holes for further installation of the hinged bowl. The distance between the floor and these holes should be approximately 300-400 mm so that the toilet bowl can be hung high enough from the floor. Special studs should be installed in these holes.

They are inserted all the way into the wall and secured with special nuts. The studs are designed for subsequent hanging of the toilet bowl.

The studs that are intended for hanging the toilet bowl must be inserted into the corresponding holes on the frame and fixed to the wall

Connecting communications

You should start by connecting the sewer. Typically, the installation is completed with a special black outlet designed for this connection. It should be adjusted to sewer pipe. The other side of the outlet is attached to the installation with special clips.

Connection to the water supply is made on the right or left side of the installation. water pipe are connected using a threaded connection already installed in the structure.

Ordinary flexible hoses can also be used to bring water to the tank. This is an easy-to-install and inexpensive option, but hoses have a shorter lifespan than pipes, so complex repairs must be considered to replace them.

At this stage, it is necessary to check the reliability of the connection of the tank with the plumbing system. To do this, open the water supply valve, which is located inside the tank, and fill the container. All connections are then checked for leaks and repaired if necessary. It is not necessary to drain the water.

Check sewer connection can be done as follows: put a bowl on the studs and perform a test flush without fixing the structure.

After that, the bowl should be removed from the mount, check for the presence or absence of leaks, and then continue installation.

Finishing work

If the installation is installed correctly, and the tank does not leak, you need to sew up the niche with a sheet of drywall and perform finishing work. It is recommended to take a double sheet of special moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary drywall will soon be damaged due to contact with condensate.

To correctly cut all the mounting holes in the sheet and not spoil the material, use a template for cutting. Typically, such a template comes with the installation.

When the installation is installed and all the necessary communications are connected, the niche is sewn up with a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall, on which finishing work is then carried out

In the bathroom, the walls are most often tiled with ceramic tiles. Further work on the installation of a wall-mounted toilet can only be started after this stage is completed.

It will not be a mistake to even completely complete the renovation of the bathroom, and only then proceed with the installation of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation.

Installing a wall hung toilet

This stage can be called the simplest, since the bulk of the work has already been completed. But first, it is recommended to wait until the tile adhesive layer has completely dried. Perform the installation of the toilet bowl as follows:

Adjust the dimensions of the outlet of the drain tank, which should protrude 50 mm beyond the wall.
In the same way, the pipe intended for the sewer drain is cut.
Install the pipes in the places intended for them.
Put on previously installed studs and pipes special gasket big size, in configuration it looks like a truncated pyramid.
Put the toilet bowl on the studs, securely connecting it to the nozzles.
Install plastic inserts and rubber gaskets.
Put on and tighten the fixing nuts.
Cut off the protruding part of the rubber gasket.

Hanging the toilet bowl with the installation, its connection to the sewer and cistern, as well as the installation of the drain button is carried out after finishing work

After that, you can check the operation of the sewer by flushing water from the tank into the toilet bowl. To adjust the height of the toilet bowl above the floor, you can change the position of the retractable pins and studs designed to hang the bowl. In this case, they usually focus on the growth of the visitor.

The universal height is considered to be a distance of 40 cm from the edge of the bowl to the floor level.

Mounting the flush button

It remains to install the flush button. It can be pneumatic or mechanical. This is not a difficult operation, since all connections are already provided on the installation and must already be routed to the appropriate hole on the wall.

To install a mechanical button, you will need to install special pins and then adjust their position. The pneumatic model only needs to be attached to the tedious tubes on the installation, and it will be ready to go.

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Floor-mounted toilets are gradually losing ground to their modern competitors - wall-mounted toilets. What is the reason for their popularity, what advantages do they have and why are they so appreciated by homeowners? Suspended structures are more expensive, they are difficult to install, so this process takes more time. These are the disadvantages of wall-hung toilets, but they are fully compensated by the benefits obtained in the form of ease of use, space saving and good aesthetic qualities.

Wall hung toilet

The design of the wall-mounted toilet bowl is quite simple, as can be seen in the above photo. Besides, exactly design features have become a kind of "insignia" that allows you to immediately understand the difference between traditional and suspended models. To learn how to install a wall hung toilet with an installation, you need to know what elements it consists of.

To the main components suspended structure three elements can be included. The first one is metal frame to which the toilet bowl is attached. This frame is also called a frame or installation (more details: "How to choose an installation for a toilet - what you need to know when choosing"). It is with the installation of this element that the installation of a wall-mounted toilet with installation begins. The installation is attached to the wall and floor surface, which allows you to withstand very heavy loads - even an overweight person will not be able to damage the structure. Of course, fix the frame on drywall walls it is forbidden.

The frame is necessarily equipped with a device with which the height of the hanging toilet is adjusted. Mounting the bowl on the frame is carried out with special pins, which make it possible to create a one-piece structure.

The second element is a drain tank built into the wall. The shape of the cistern for the wall-hung toilet differs from traditional solutions, because free space much less to install. The tank is installed in the installation, after which it must be insulated with styrene - a material that allows you to avoid the occurrence of condensate. On the front wall of the structure there are holes for installing a drain system, so it will not cause difficulties. The same cutouts give access to the inside of the structure if it needs to be repaired. Most manufactured tanks are equipped with a dosed drain system: standard solutions provide for the possibility of draining 3 and 6 liters of water.

The third element is the toilet bowl, which is the only visible part of the structure. As a rule, bowls have a classic oval shape, but there are also piece items made in a round or rectangular. Mounting the bowl is usually not difficult: everything is included in the kit necessary elements mounts and installation guide. To securely attach the toilet to the wall, additional materials may be required: Teflon tape, polyethylene outlet, hose and studs.

Installing a toilet for installation

Installing a hanging toilet with your own hands on a steel frame is more expensive, but the resulting design will be much more reliable, and it will take less time to install it. When it must be attached to the floor and wall, able to withstand high loads.

Installation of the entire structure can be divided into several stages:

Frame installation. At this stage, a steel frame is attached to the floor and wall with dowels. Sewerage and water supply outlets are connected to the selected site. Installation of all structural elements must be carried out in compliance with horizontal and vertical levels. When installing the frame, it is necessary to set the height at which the wall-hung toilet will be installed: as a rule, this figure is in the range of 40-43 centimeters. In the future, the height of the wall-hung toilet will be adjusted already during its direct installation. This step needs special attention: quality further work will directly depend on how the installation was installed.
Connecting the water supply to the cistern. The eyeliner can be both flexible and rigid. Most experts believe that the hard version is more convenient because it can last much longer. At all stages of the installation of the wall-mounted toilet bowl, the tank valve must be closed (with the exception of moments requiring the operation of the descent system).
Connecting the toilet to sewer system . The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected to the outlet of the sewer, after which the structure is fixed with a corrugation. The use of corrugations is optional, and there are different methods connection of the installation to the sewerage system. When this design collected, it is necessary to carry out a test drain. How to do it? The toilet bowl is baited into place, which allows you to flush the water. After completing this step, the bowl is removed and its final installation will be done in the last step.
Plasterboard sheathing. To cover the work area, you will need a double waterproof drywall, which has better strength characteristics compared to ordinary material. In the installation instructions, there will definitely be diagrams and photos that allow you to correctly cut the material and make cutouts in the right places. The panels themselves are mounted to the frame and profile fixed on the wall. Sheathing can be done in two circuit diagrams, one of which involves processing the entire surface of the wall, and the second is designed to close only the installation. The second scheme is somewhat more convenient, since its implementation allows you to create a small shelf that can be used as a functional or decorative element bathroom.
Plasterboard lining. Facing is best done with ceramic tiles or solid panels that would match the material used for the entire bathroom so that there is no dissonance.
final toilet installation. This stage completes the installation of a hanging toilet with your own hands: the bowl is mounted on the part of the installation brought out, for which studs are used. The lined drywall will cover the frame of the structure and the drain tank, so only the toilet bowl and the drain key will be unmasked.

Installation of a wall-mounted toilet bowl without installation

Often, homeowners have a question - is it possible to install a hanging toilet without installation? There is an option that allows you to bypass the need for installation installation - installing the structure on a concrete base. The flush tank in this case can be installed in the wall and equipped with remote release keys, or located above the toilet in the same way as it is implemented in floor structures(read: "").

As a rule, the choice of such a design is determined by its cheapness, so the main attention should be paid to the most budget option.

The following materials are required for installation:

about 40 liters of concrete M200;
flat boards suitable for formwork;
nuts, screws and washers for wood;
2 threaded rods 2 cm thick and 50 to 80 cm long;
a piece plastic pipe from 8 cm long and 11 cm in diameter;
drain coupling;
silicone sealant.

The algorithm for performing work in this case will be as follows:

First you need to fix the rods in a wall that can withstand heavy loads - these rods provide fastening for the wall-hung toilet.
Now you can install the drain sleeve. When the height of the toilet is set, the coupling is cut to the required dimensions.
The next step is the installation of formwork. Be sure to clearly mark the mounting holes so that they coincide with the corresponding holes on the formwork. The length of the rods will be calculated by adding the thickness of the recess and the distance between the bowl and the wall. The rods are fixed with concrete glue. When the pins and formwork are mounted, it is necessary to try on the bowl.
At this stage, you can start concreting. As a result, the concrete base must be equipped with pins for the bowl, an outlet for the coupling and a specially designated place for installing a drain tank. This will make it easier. It is necessary to wait until the concrete hardens, which usually takes about 2-3 weeks.
Further installation of the hanging toilet bowl with your own hands is carried out by performing the same steps that must be performed when installing floor-standing toilet bowls: the drain is connected, all connections are sealed, the bowl is mounted and the nuts are tightened. The drain tank is fixed in place, and the base itself can be masked with a layer of drywall by making cutouts for access to the tank.

Slatted ceilings are a popular solution for finishing kitchens and bathrooms, but they look pretty decent in other areas of the apartment. With such a ceiling, notes of style and originality appear in the interior, the very zest that is so lacking traditional methods arrangement of home interiors. Huge selection of materials, textures and color shades give design ideas complete freedom, which allows you to realize any, even the most extraordinary interior design. But the most important thing is in the installation rack ceiling there is nothing complicated, so you can do it yourself, and quite quickly and without much labor.

Types of rack ceilings

Currently, there are several types of rack ceilings on the market. Their main differences are in the design and shape of the rails, as well as in the features of their docking with each other and fastening to the supporting frame.

Rack ceilings are made of light aluminum alloys or non-combustible plastic, so their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, however, they somewhat reduce the height of the ceiling and require complete disassembly if individual elements need to be replaced.

Slatted ceilings in the home interior in the photo

Classification of rack ceilings:

By type of panel:

closed;
open;
solid.

The open design implies the placement of slats with a small (1.5-2 cm) gap and is great for finishing high rooms, where the gap between the slats will not be so noticeable. The closed ceiling is created with the help of rails, which, having special form edges are overlapped, from which they resemble plastic or. In gapless or solid slatted ceilings, the panels are installed without a gap, which creates a feeling of solidity of the ceiling space.

Rail shape:

rectangular (German profile);
rounded (Italian profile);
V-shaped, etc.

Rectangular slats are used as part of ceilings open type, incl. with decorative inserts. Italian profile suitable for furnishing closed ceilings with a minimum gap between panels. As a rule, panels of other shapes are used as decorative ceiling inserts or to implement original design ideas.

By the presence of a filling profile

with insert;
without insert.

In ceilings with an insert in the gap between the rails, an additional profile is installed. Designs without an insert can have a sufficiently large (more than 2 cm) gap between the rails.

Varieties of slatted suspended ceilings in the photo

As a rule, rack ceilings are made of light aluminum alloys or non-combustible plastic, so their main advantages are fire resistance, moisture resistance and environmental friendliness. Even being multi-level, such structures are easy to install, however, they somewhat reduce the height of the ceiling and require complete disassembly if individual elements need to be replaced.

The surface of the rails can be of any color, be smooth, embossed or imitate other materials, which must be taken into account when choosing a finish.

Ceiling design calculation

To install a rack ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the room for work and complete all necessary calculations. To do this, you need to take out all the furniture, remove peeling plaster, level the walls and remove construction debris.

The rack ceiling design includes the following components:

main panels (rails);
slotted profile (used if necessary);
traverse (a special tire that serves to fix the rail);
angular (bearing) profile, installed around the perimeter of the room;
adjustable suspension (wire or perforated strip, which is installed on the main ceiling and serves to fasten tires with rails - similar to the guide profiles of plasterboard suspended structures);
stringer (guiding longitudinal and transverse profile);
plinth (performs a decorative function, closing the junction of walls and ceiling).

The calculation of the rack ceiling begins with measuring the perimeter of the room - it will correspond to the total length of the carrier profile. The length of the rails is selected according to the dimensions of the room, and they can have any direction - longitudinal, transverse or even diagonal. On sale you can find 3 or 4 meter panels, so the dimensions of the panels should be selected with the expectation of a minimum of waste.

The location of the guide profiles is calculated with an indent of 30 cm from the longitudinal walls. The step between the stringers is taken no more than 1-1.2 m, so stringers may not be needed in narrow rooms. In order to determine the total length of the rails, you should draw a ceiling plan on paper.

To install lighting devices, the distance between the base and the rack structure is taken based on their mounting dimensions. For example, recessed luminaires with incandescent lamps require at least 130 mm, while halogen or LED lamps only about 70 mm.

What is needed for installation?

If you have made the calculations and bought everything you need to install the rack ceiling, it remains to assemble the tool and stock up on consumables.

The list of tools should include:

construction knife;
a hammer;
drill (with punch function);
screwdriver;
pliers;
construction and hydraulic level;
scissors or a hacksaw for metal (depending on the thickness of the rails);
marker or pencil;
tape measure and square.

In addition, you will need mounting dowels and self-tapping screws sufficient for secure installation ceiling structure quantity. Also, when working, it is worth using overalls, goggles and gloves.

With everything you need at hand, you can start marking the ceiling. The line of the carrier profile must be drawn strictly on a horizontal level. After that, the points for placing stringers and suspension elements should be noted.

Multi-level ceilings require more complex calculations. The amount of gap between the main ceiling surface and the first tier will depend on what material you are going to fill it with. If not needed, the heat or upper level can be raised by maximum height(from 5 cm), but always taking into account the mounting dimensions of the lighting fixtures.

Electrical wiring in home interiors is always hidden. Therefore, its wiring must be performed before starting installation work. It is advisable to put it in corrugated pipe with reliable fixation to the main ceiling or walls.

We should not forget about the complexity of dismantling the rack ceiling. Wiring must be laid in such a way that later, in order to replace its individual sections or restore broken contacts, you do not have to disassemble the entire structure.

Installing a slatted ceiling

The installation of a rack-type suspended ceiling structure should be carried out only after the completion of the finishing of the room. And all in order not to damage or stain the front surface of the rails.

If there is a markup, you can proceed to the first stage of installation - laying the carrier U-shaped profile. It is mounted along the wound of the line marked along the perimeter of the room with the help of dowels, which are placed in increments of 30-50 cm.

The next step is the installation of adjustable suspensions. They are located at the intersection points of the stringers and are attached to the main floor with dowels or self-tapping screws (depending on the base material). After mounting the suspension, you can start laying the stringers. Their length is taken with a 5-7 mm gap, which avoids curvature of the ceiling plane during final fixation to the suspension elements.

Before installing the rails, you need to remove protective film. The length of the panels is selected according to the size of the room. The corners in it may not be straight, so the extreme rivers will have to be cut. This should be done taking into account the dimensions of the plinth, which should close the corner gap between false ceiling and wall. The length of the panels is taken 3-5 mm shorter than the distance between opposite walls for ease of installation.

The panels are exposed between the teeth of the traverse and are fixed on it by snapping. It may happen that you need to reduce the width of the side rails. To do this, having measured the required distance, you need to make a deep neat cut along the panel, and perpendicular cuts on the part to be cut off, after which it can be broken off in parts by bending and unbending the metal.

When installing the side rails, the last one is mounted first, and then the penultimate one. Do not forget also about the intermediate liners, which are included in the design in order to neatly design the joints.

Lighting and other subtleties of installation

Installation of lighting equipment is the most delicate part of the work. Slots for fixtures must be made in advance, trying not to make burrs. The installation of lighting points is carried out in parallel with the laying of the rails. When doing this, do not forget to make sure that the connection is made correctly and securely.

The direction of the slats is chosen at the planning stage in accordance with the features natural light. As a rule, they try to place them along the line of light.

In narrow and cramped rooms best effect achieved by a transverse arrangement of rails, and in spacious square shape- diagonal, so look at the situation.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing a rack ceiling. It is only important to correctly calculate the structure and follow the installation technology - in this case, the ceiling, pleasing to the eye, will serve you for many years.

Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended rack ceiling, video

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