Now there are so many fertilizers on sale and so much information about their use around that many gardeners are lost. What fertilizer is best? It seems that whatever you take - everything is for the good ... Or is it better to get by with the good old manure?

To determine how to use fertilizers, you need to understand life cycle plants and remember very a simple circuit top dressing.

To simplify it completely, a plant builds a stem and leaves from nitrogen, phosphorus and trace elements are needed to lay flowers and accumulate substances that determine the taste of a vegetable or berry, and potassium is nutrition for the roots.

SPRING: WE APPLY NITROGEN FERTILIZERS

In spring, all plants - both perennials and those that have sprouted from seeds - actively grow, very quickly increase their green mass.

At this time they need the main construction material- nitrogen. It is found in manure, humus, compost, as well as in mineral fertilizers - saltpeter, azofosk, nitrophoska, urea, etc. Nitrogen also makes up most of the mineral mixtures marked "spring".

In the spring, the laying of generative organs (future flowers) takes place. So supporting them with phosphorus a little won't hurt. If slow-acting phosphorus fertilizers have not been applied since autumn, then they should be added in the spring. Usually, phosphorus is also in the composition of spring mineral mixtures, it is denoted by the letter P.

SUMMER: INTRODUCING POTASSIUM AND MICROELEMENTS

In summer, plants slow down growth and begin to bloom, set fruits, and form root crops. At this time, they need a small amount of nitrogen, and also - special elements that are rare in the soil.

Here the tastes of plants differ. But if you do not know how to please capricious people, then you can use complex microelement fertilizers. Mixtures based on humic acids are especially good: they dissolve easily in water and are quickly absorbed.

Perhaps the best summer top dressing there will be an infusion of wood ash. With foliar application (spraying on the leaves), such an infusion will also serve as an effective prevention against fungal and viral diseases. But you can replace it with potassium nitrate.

Ideally, 2 top dressings should be done with an interval of 10 days. 1st - infusion of manure and ash or a solution of nitrogen-potassium fertilizer. 2nd - a solution of trace elements.

WE APPLY PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZERS IN AUTUMN

Toward the end of summer, the growth of the aerial part practically stops, and there is no need to stimulate it. In green vegetables, this will lead to an accumulation of nitrates; cabbage heads will crack. For other cultures there is a period ripening of fruits and root crops, and in no case should they continue to waste energy on unnecessary tops.

The same goes for trees and shrubs. It's time for them to prepare for the next season and a long winter: lay flower buds, strengthen wood, accumulate nutrient reserves in tissues.

So from mid-August, nitrogen fertilizing is completely stopped. Instead, support the work of the roots with phosphorus fertilizers. Basically it is regular and double superphosphate.

Also, from autumn, slow-acting phosphate fertilizers are introduced into the soil, which will be in demand by plants. next spring: bone and phosphate rock.

When to fertilize - table

There is so much information that in it you will definitely find something that will respond to your inner personal desire and decision, because as they say: be sure to listen to all advice and accept only independent solution. Once the site was bought, then there are already plans. Plan your planting: where are the apple trees - nuts, where are the bushes - berries, where are the paths, where are the flowers, where are the greenhouses, where are the beds, where is the lawn, where is the recreation area. And already proceeding from this, grow your soil. AT literally it must be created. If you can buy rotted manure, it's the best solution. If you can buy cheap fresh manure, then you can, let it ripen if the smell does not bother you. If you are not ready for the presence of manure, then the organic matter that will fluff heavy earth can be easily obtained from sawdust if you have them and black lowland peat in the area. As previously written, a lot depends on the characteristics of the site, if it does not flood with water, then it is not necessary to raise much, otherwise it will dry out in the summer. The cut grass can be collected in a heap, or you can choose a certain area on which you will dump it all summer, level it, trample it down, and dig it up in the spring and the soil will be more pliable. Cover some part of the meadow with something dense and heavy: old carpet, linoleum, carton boxes fit, dig it up in the spring, it will be easy. You will also have to buy land, with it you will fill the beds made from any material: boards or slate. The purchased land is not fertile, it will also be improved for two years. If there are water bodies nearby, drag rotted reeds from there, if there is a forest nearby, then leaves and branches from there, a chopper is always useful. Instead of sand, I bought expanded clay, even a large fraction is suitable, moss from the forest: sphagnum and just green like that, I bought birch charcoal, it is not cheap, but I really liked it in business, read about such a concept as TERRA PRETA, you will still gain knowledge. And all this is plentifully and systematically watered with humates, they are now available. Waste can be composted, but now I am making some furrows, like potato furrows, and immediately put kitchen waste in them, cover them with grass, sawdust, earth, and everything is recycled in the soil, there is no need to drag it from the compost heap. You can water with a solution of urea or an accelerator for composting. Oats will help out: pick up a piece of earth as much as you can, sprinkle abundantly with oats, it is better to fill it with sawdust lightly and water it, or you can move and water it with a rake, make spring fertilizer, or just carbamide for better growth. Leave it in the winter, you don’t even need to mow and you won’t recognize your land. Good luck!!! I hope that at least something is useful!

Organic and inorganic - which is better?

organic fertilizers represent what in a past life was organic matter - animal dung, bird droppings (under the noble name "guano"), plant residues, compost, etc. They contain (more or less) all the substances necessary for plants, since any organic fertilizer used to be a living cell, in which boron-iron-potassium-etc was also present.

Inorganics- everything is simplified here, it contains only the main components of plant nutrition.

Hence it is clear that organic - more "long-playing" fertilizers. They must still rot (and if the ground is cold, then this process can take a long time).

At the same time, using inorganics, the result can be obtained much faster (not to mention the unaesthetic process of introducing noble guano into a cactus pot in the wife's bedroom - you can get it on the head with this cactus).

For indoor plants We do not use organic matter. In the garden, organic matter is applied not only as a fertilizer, but also to improve the structure of the soil (compost, for example). But we are categorically against the use of compost, humus, etc. in pots with plants.

Therefore, if you are not a fan of a healthy and organic lifestyle and buy cucumbers in a nearby grocery store, and not in a shop where they are grown using only a noble product (it is interesting that the fact that cadmium levels in the kidneys go off scale from the manufacturer of this guano does not bother anyone), then put aside the foul-smelling liquid and take care of the inorganic. The only exception is the water from the aquarium: when changing the water in the aquarium, water the potted plants with it - this is an excellent fertilizer.

N-P-K: nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium

The composition of the fertilizer is characterized by the percentage of nitrogen ( N), phosphorus ( P), potassium ( K), or the formula N-P-K.

In the USA, for example, any fertilizer is required by law to have in the description N-P-K composition. We have long had and strengthened the suspicion that most fertilizers are taken from the same barrel, therefore, in principle, they are all the same, even if they differ slightly in composition.

Pay attention to the values N-P-K values. Fertilizers with formulas 6-6-6 and 12-12-12 are the same, only in the first case you buy less fertilizer and more filler. The first digit of the formula indicates the nitrogen content, which contributes to the formation of abundant green tops in plants. Phosphorus (second number) affects their flowering. If you applied fertilizer 22-4-4, then you will not see flowering in plants for a long time - green leaves will be trampled, and until all the fertilizer is "eaten" by the plant, it will not have flowers (we went through this).

For the "general development" of plants, it is necessary to take a fertilizer of the type 12-12-12, for flowering 12-30-12; moreover, the latter is soluble. In granules, a high content of phosphates is meaningless, since they will go into an insoluble state on the surface of the earth. Generally, phosphates are best applied deep into the soil.

Buy fertilizers with trace elements, magnesium and iron are especially important. Magnesium sulfate can be bought at a pharmacy. Its deficiency, like iron, causes chlorosis (leaf discoloration) in plants. The percentage of trace elements is not particularly important.

Micronutrients must be chelated, otherwise they (especially iron) are oxidized and become inaccessible to plants. This is one of the most common causes of chlorosis in potted plants - poor drainage, the roots at the bottom of the pot sit in water and cannot get iron; another reason could be high soil pH.

Do not store the diluted fertilizer solution for a long time - chelates, especially in the light, break down .

Various variations"specialized" fertilizers (such as "palm fertilizer", etc.) are nothing more than a marketing gimmick.

It is better to put "long-playing" fertilizers in a pot with a plant, the granules of which swell and slowly "release" fertilizers into the ground. Long-acting fertilizers are more expensive, but really worth it. There are different types of them, differing in the percentage of elements and designed for different time splitting - 6 months, 9 months, etc. Great convenience - using them, you can not twitch due to a possible overdose of fertilizers.

If you are using conventional fertilizers and not "long-term", be careful with the dose of fertilizer so as not to burn the roots of plants with them. Below is written about nitrogen oxides and ammonia. It is better to apply a reduced dose of fertilizer, but more often. If the weather is cold or the plant is stressed, do not fertilize.

When planting plants in the garden, any fertilizer is suitable. If you are not growing wheat on thirty hectares, where the cost of fertilizer is important, then take fertilizer 12-12-12, 14-14-14 (or close to this ratio). If you overpaid for "unused" potassium, then this is not so important.

We buy some of the cheapest fertilizers, mix them, add additional iron and trace elements. We fertilize plants when it is very warm and good watering. The only subtlety: if the season has begun tropical rains, the usual fertilizer will be washed off very quickly. In this case, it is better to take a "semi-long-playing" one that will last for some time.
If you fertilize once a year at a dacha in the Moscow region, then it makes more sense for you to apply a “long-playing” fertilizer like Osmokot. If you, like us, live in the tropics, then Osmokot is throwing money away. because of high temperature and climate humidity instead of 6 or 9 months written on the label, the fertilizer will "last" a month and a half.

To stimulate the flowering of plants, we sprinkle (or water them) with a loading dose of soluble fertilizer (20-50-20). Very useful for plants (hibiscus, etc.) spraying with soluble fertilizer.

On the packaging of the fertilizer, look at what the nitrogen in this fertilizer is obtained from - urea(ammonia - NH 3, ammonium ion - NH 4+) or nitrogen oxides. We consulted in detail with a professor at the local university, Murray Korman. In short: the leaves of plants "whistling" absorb ammonia, so you need to spray urea on the foliage. For the same reason aquarium plants ammonium is eaten up first, and then oxides. Plant roots use only nitrogen oxides, ammonia is poisonous to them. Microorganisms in the soil process ammonia-ammonium into oxides. That's why if you apply fertilizer to the ground, then it is better - in smaller doses and more often. Otherwise, microorganisms will not cope and will not process anything - the roots of plants will be destroyed. If it is cold, then urea cannot be added - bacteria do not work in the cold. Bacteria require oxygen for the nitrate cycle, another reason for good-draining soil. As a result, it is best to apply a mixture of urea and nitrogen oxides - it is usually written on the fertilizer bag what nitrogen is obtained from.

Soil acidity is also very important. At high pH, ​​iron will not be available to plants. Any inscriptions that fertilizer acidifies the soil are nonsense. If there are a lot of carbonates in the soil (for example, limestone, which will bind "acidity"), then you can only acidify the soil with a wagon of hydrochloric acid. Adding sulfates will only help for a couple of days. If you have alkaline soil, it is better to mix it with peat.

What fertilizer to choose for potted plants?

If you are a busy or forgetful person, then it is best for you to use "long-lasting" fertilizers for plants. If you devote two hours a day to caring for flowers (like Nero Wolfe), then use two types of soluble fertilizers:

1. "For general development"- 12-12-12 (approximate numbers) with trace elements. Water according to instructions once a week. It is useful to spray plants with this fertilizer.
2. "To bloom"- use a fertilizer with a high phosphate content (eg 10-50-10). Water this fertilizer flowering plants once a month or more often, alternating with the first fertilizer.

That's all you need to know when choosing fertilizers.

All about plant fertilization on site site

Weekly Free Website Digest website

Every week, for 10 years, for our 100,000 subscribers, a wonderful selection relevant materials about flowers and the garden, as well as other useful information.

Subscribe and receive!

Autumn is the time when the owners land plots prepare the soil for the next planting season. Most mineral and organic fertilizers for soil enrichment are applied in the fall before plowing. During the winter, they manage to be processed and saturate the soil with useful microelements necessary for the development of plants. Fertilizer, which is often used on household plots, is an ash rich in potassium and phosphorus.

Important trace elements for plants

Ash is an excellent organic fertilizer. It contains elements such as:

• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• calcium;
• copper;
• molybdenum;
• manganese.

The amount of minerals and trace elements contained in this raw material depends on the source material. Ash from straw, tops, grape stalks contains up to 40% potassium, from deciduous trees– up to 30%. And the remains from the combustion of wood conifers and shrubs are rich in phosphorus up to 10%.

This fertilizer contains all the listed trace elements in an easily accessible form for plants. They are quickly absorbed by the roots and actively influence the growth and flowering. The absence of chlorine contained in purchased fertilizers is an indisputable advantage of such raw materials.

Fireproof wood residues are an excellent plant growth stimulator

How to calculate the required application rate?

The use of combustion residues as a fertilizer in autumn helps to saturate and restore the balance of microelements in the earth after harvesting. The ash is applied before digging and, after plowing, is evenly distributed in the soil, restoring its fertility over the winter.

Weight depending on the container used is as follows:

• a tablespoon - 6g;
• 250 ml glass - 100g;
• liter jar - 500g.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

Such an organic fertilizer is used on any type of soil: sandy and loamy, peat and sod-podzolic. But to make it, it is necessary to dose it, in accordance with the composition of the soil on the site and the planting pattern on next year. Application in autumn has an effect on heavy soils, but on light soils, a high percentage of trace elements is washed out. melt waters. Therefore, such land is fertilized in the spring.

Why you should know the landing pattern in advance horticultural crops for next season? The more demanding the crop, the lighter the raw material used for fertilizer. Wood ash is used to feed bushes and fruit trees, straw ash for strawberries and cucumbers, and herbal ash for nightshade crops.

The introduction of raw materials in the fall before digging occurs at the rate of 1 kg per 1 sq.m. During the winter, the ash is processed, acidity decreases, and to spring plantings the soil is already saturated with the main trace elements. If the land on the site is fertile (for example, black soil), then the volume can be reduced to 500 g, and if it is scarce (sandy and loamy), then increase to 1.5-2 kg per 1 sq.m.

Ash has an alkaline reaction, therefore, when introduced into the ground in large quantities harmful to microorganisms, soil bacteria and earthworms.

Crops that require autumn feeding with ash

Good growth, increased yields, improved frost resistance responds to fertilizing with ash grapes. Fertilize in autumn after picking berries. 4 buckets of ordinary water are poured under each bush, and 1 glass of ash is dissolved in the fifth bucket and the vine is fed in this way.

In autumn, strawberry bushes are fertilized with ash, adding half a glass under each plant. Such top dressing for the winter enriches the bushes with all useful substances. If strawberry leaves are cut off for the winter, then the introduction of organic matter is necessary for the formation of new healthy shoots in the spring.

Fertilizer with ash of cherry and plum trees is carried out 1 time in 3 years. A 10 cm deep groove is dug near the trunk, 100 g of raw materials are poured into it and the hole is buried.

Currant bushes, gooseberries and raspberries respond well to top dressing. As well as ornamental plants. For example, such as peonies, clematis, roses, lilies, hyacinths, chrysanthemums, perennial asters.

After autumn fertilizer soil grow well cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, pumpkins. For the winter, a 2 cm layer of ash is sprinkled on the beds winter garlic and bow. All of these crops continue in the spring and summer while growing.

What can ash be used for?

The ash remaining after the autumn application is stored in dense wooden boxes or bagged in dry places, as the ingress of water leaches out the potassium.

Gardeners and gardeners actively use the ash solution not only as a fertilizer, but also for pest control. It negatively affects aphids, wireworms, fleas, nematodes, slugs, onion and carrot flies, caterpillars and snails. To prepare it, 1 glass of raw materials and 50 g of soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water, mixed well and sprayed with grapes, cabbage, strawberries, currants, onions, carrots. Processing is carried out in cloudy, not rainy weather.

Do-it-yourself preparation of excellent nourishment for the soil

Is rock ash used in the garden?

Unlike wood ash, stone ash contains no potassium, no phosphorus, no calcium. As a top dressing for all types of plants, it is not at all suitable. However, it contains over 60% silicon oxides, so it can be used as a fertilizer on clay soils for loosening and drying. Another important element sulfur comes out of the composition, therefore, when it is applied, the soil is oxidized.

Stone ash in combination with calcium nitrate, urea, manure or manure can be applied in autumn on neutral soils at the rate of 3 kg per 1 weave for future beds with onions, garlic, cabbage, mustard, radish.

Conclusions to note

1. The ashes are crushed and sieved to nutrients quickly absorbed by plants.
2. Do not combine the simultaneous application of ash and nitrogenous fertilizers (manure, droppings, urea), upon contact, a reaction occurs and ammonia is released. The alternation of dressings should be with a break of 3-4 weeks.
3. Do not feed plants that grow only on acidic soils (blueberries, cranberries, rhododendrons, azaleas).
4. Do not use this fertilizer on lands with an alkaline reaction, it can slow down the germination of seeds and stop the growth of crops.
5. Do not use ashes from incineration of garbage, printed materials, painted products, as they contain chemicals and heavy metals (lead).
6. When crushing, sifting and spreading, avoid contact with small particles on the mucous membrane of the eyes and in the respiratory tract.
7. Ash has no expiration date.

Organic origin, the absence of chemical components, low price, availability, easy digestibility by plants, proven effectiveness - all these arguments play a role when gardeners and gardeners choose ash as a fertilizer.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

• inability to move easily and comfortably;
• discomfort when going up and down stairs;
• unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;
• pain during or after exercise;
• inflammation in the joints and swelling;
• causeless and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints ...

Now answer the question: does it suit you? Can such pain be endured? And how much money have you already "leaked" for ineffective treatment? That's right - it's time to end this! Do you agree? That is why we decided to publish an exclusive interview with Oleg Gazmanov, in which he revealed the secrets of getting rid of joint pain, arthritis and arthrosis.

Attention, only TODAY!

Even in the summer, vigilant summer residents begin to think about what fertilizers to apply to the soil in the fall. From proper feeding soil directly depends on the harvest of the next season. If you know exactly what additives your garden needs and, most importantly, when to apply them, the garden soil will be optimally prepared, and vegetables, fruits, berries will delight you with their quality and abundance. It is necessary to take into account many factors: the level of soil acidity, the lack or, conversely, the excess of certain elements.

Fertilization of the earth in the fall, the effect of top dressing

Applying additives in the spring helps to stimulate plant growth, activate them internal functions. Autumn top dressing saturates the soil itself, helps to restore its fertile resources, wasted during the spring-summer period. If this is not done, then the earth will inevitably become impoverished. The harvest or the state of green crops will speak eloquently about this.

Autumn top dressing, photo:

Fertilizer in the fall for digging is usually applied from the second half of September to October 15-17. During digging, top dressing is mixed with the soil; during the winter, all stages of splitting go through. If you have some crops left to winter, then they should definitely be fed with phosphorus or potash additives. They have a positive effect on the state of the root system, activate its growth, positively affect the future vegetation of shoots, strengthen immunity. perennials before the coming cold. Autumn introduction of organics is also very important, because. during its decomposition, the soil will absorb useful elements that increase fertility.

Fertilizing the land in the fall is done in two ways:

1. Traditional "scattering" of useful components throughout the site after harvesting. Additives scatter evenly, and then dig up the soil.
2. When replanting trees or bushes in the autumn, the diameter of the hole is made slightly larger than the size of the root system requires. The necessary top dressings mixed with the ground are laid on the bottom (layer 15-20 cm). After that, the roots of the plant are placed inside the hole, covered with soil. Sometimes the soil is mixed with rotted manure to cover the roots.

Fertilizers in autumn for digging

organic

Substances of natural origin are simply irreplaceable. Often, thrifty gardeners always have them, because the fame of their useful properties never been exaggerated. What fertilizers are applied to the soil in autumn, if we consider organic matter?

Manure + compost as fertilizer, photo:

The most basic of them:

1. Manure from farm animals or poultry droppings is great for increasing soil fertility. This traditional fertilizer cannot be added fresh under plants, but in the fall it is an ideal top dressing. Fresh waste products, when they enter the ground, begin to decompose, release heat, therefore root system trees or shrubs can simply "burn out". With the advent of autumn, it is recommended to evenly scatter manure (or litter) over the site, immediately dig it up. At the same time, make sure that during the application process the organic matter is not too deep (10-15 cm will be enough). If you dig it much deeper, then all the useful components will “leave” deep into the soil, and the plants will get only a little. You should know that a similar method of feeding the soil is used once every few years (4-5 years), for 1 square meter, 1 bucket of organic matter is enough.
2. Compost or humus is a storehouse of useful elements for root crops, nightshade crops, onions, and all types of cabbage. Compost reaches its "mature" state in about a couple of years. Unripe compost is not to the liking of a wide range garden plants, however, the introduction of raw compost in the fall is quite appropriate, even welcome. It is evenly laid out over the site (the land must be free of weeds or any plant residues), then dug up. The compost should be buried approximately no deeper than 10-15 cm, at the rate of 3-4 kg / 1 square meter. You can also successfully use humus as mulch - cover wintering crops with a layer of 5-7 cm.

The rotted compost in the fall for digging is used in a similar way, especially since most gardeners tend to use this method. Fruit trees also respond well to mulching with compost. With the advent of autumn, organics are laid out in a rather thick layer, covering the entire area. trunk circle. As soon as the first spring rays of the sun warm up, the earth with humus should be carefully loosened, slightly deepening it.

1. Ash is a natural source of trace elements that favorably affect the growth of all green crops. The "richest" ash is obtained from the burning of potato tops or branches of fruit trees. Even ashes from weeds are successfully used. Like manure, it is brought in for digging in the fall about 1 time in 4 years. Potatoes, beets, strawberries, raspberries, cabbage crops, shrubs - everyone likes ash top dressing. For 1 square meter of land, 1 kg of ash is usually used.
2. Siderata - excellent, environmentally friendly harmless remedy which will saturate the soil with nitrogen. By the end of summer experienced gardeners clover, mustard, rye, lupins, legumes are sown on the vacated land - they are considered the best green manure. When autumn comes, the soil is plowed up with them, this is how green manure deepens. For trees, bushes, they are also useful. The trunk circle is sown with these crops, and then dug up in a similar way. Mustard is generally one of the most useful green manure, but more on that later.
3. Sawdust in itself does not carry significant value, it is not a fertilizer. But their introduction makes the soil looser, and later helps to better retain moisture. When sawdust rots, it becomes compost and also a food source for earthworms, soil fungi. Sawdust is very good for autumn incorporation into the ground, but they should be applied about 1 time in 3 years.

Also worth mentioning is organic fertilizer like peat. It is not applied in its pure form, but it is very effective as an additive to other top dressings. Usually it is added to humus. High peat has high level pH, retains moisture well, but it has a rather poor composition of nutrients. Lowland peat, on the contrary, contains many useful components, has a slightly acidic reaction.

Siderat oats, photo:

Nitrogenous, potassium, phosphoric

Fertilizing the earth in the fall with superphosphate allows the substance to fully dissolve to a new one. summer season. Main element disintegrates in about six months, therefore, by the beginning of sowing, planting vegetables, fruit crops, the land will be prepared properly. If we take ordinary superphosphate (mono), then 50 g of substance / 1 m 2 will be quite enough, double superphosphate - about 30 g / 1 m², granular substance - 40 g / 1 m². Along with superphosphates, it is strongly recommended to use potassium - it will contribute to better absorption of phosphorus by the soil.

Such a fertilizer in the fall for digging, like phosphorite flour, is also an excellent additive for enriching soddy-podzolic soils, poor soils, and leached chernozems. The best way it manifests itself together with manure - they complement each other, the soil absorbs phosphorus faster. This is a safe top dressing, because. She is of natural origin. Please note that some types of plants do not like calcium, and phosphorite flour contains it.

Phosphorite flour, photo:

Answering the question: what fertilizers are applied to the soil in the fall, it is also worth mentioning urea (urea). This is a nitrogen supplement, and nitrogen is contained in amide form- that is, it has the ability to linger in the ground, and not be washed out of it during the spring snowmelt. It is useless to apply ordinary nitrogen in the fall, because. it is weathered, removed from the soil.

Experienced gardeners recommend mixing urea with a phosphorus additive. The recipe is as follows: mix 100 g of limestone, 1 kg of ordinary superphosphate, take one part of the resulting mixture, add two of the same parts of urea to it. The resulting mixture should be scattered over the area (approximately 150 g / 1 m²), dug up.

For fruit trees, urea is best mixed with manure (or bird droppings). Manure is rich in nitrogen in itself, so the percentage of urea is recommended to be reduced to 35-40 g / 1 m². To understand how it looks, let's take a medium-sized apple tree, add 4 buckets of manure, 50 g of urea, 30 g of simple superphosphate to the area around its trunk circle.

Potassium sulphate is one of the most important potassium supplements, which manifests itself in interaction with nitrogenous, phosphorus supplements. This is an excellent fertilizer for raspberries in autumn, as well as strawberries, currants, gooseberries (30 g / 1 m²). If potassium sulfate is added to the soil, then berry bushes can comfortably survive even severe frosts.

Calcium chloride is well preserved in the soil, but it is calcium, since winter months chlorine will erode, wash with melt water. Therefore, it can be used as autumn top dressing even where chlorine intolerant plants are to be planted. Typically, approximately 20 g of substance / 1 m² of area is used.

Fertilizing the soil in autumn with ammonium sulphate helps it release nitrogen, which is necessary for green crops. This top dressing is especially well suited to heavy soils.

Combined

You can take a simpler path - consider ready-made, combined supplements. They are sold in the respective stores, gardening departments of supermarkets. Humic dressings, in which the main active ingredient is humic acid, have a positive effect on soil fertility.

Excellent fertilizers for strawberries in the fall - "Berry", "Tulip", which are scattered over the area before digging. For raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and other berries, they are also relevant. Such a tool as "Biohumus", according to its characteristics, is very similar to black earth humus. But it is obtained with the help of red Californian worms: they process manure, all kinds of natural waste.

Means "Biud" is created from the purified droppings of poultry, as well as horse or cow dung. It contains a complex of amino acids, beneficial bacteria, natural growth stimulants. In a short time, "Biud" is able to enrich the poor soil. Concentrated drug "Record" (base silt) - complex fertilizer, consisting of organic, mineral elements, for berry crops"Record-3" is recommended. Complex top dressing not only increases the fertility of the soil, but also has a positive effect on the quality of vegetables, berries, and fruits.

Bioorganic supercompost "Pixa Lux" or "Pixa Premium" is applied to the soil once in 4-5 years, they are very concentrated, effective (20 kg of additives are equivalent in terms of usefulness to 1 ton of manure). "Agrovitakva" contains everything necessary components such as potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, calcium. They feed the soil in the fall, once every 3 years.

Multi-component autumn additive "Agricol", photo:

What fertilizers to apply under fruit trees in the fall?

For young trees, top dressing is applied by laying out around the area of ​​​​the near-stem circle, followed by digging up this zone. The depth of fertilizer introduction should be approximately 11-18 cm. For older trees, they dig a hole near the trunk, its depth should be somewhere around 40-50 cm. Such feeding helps the trees survive the winter more comfortably, please us with a generous harvest.

What fertilizers are applied in autumn under an apple tree? The answer can be predicted - mineral and / or organic origin. Nitrogen supplements are not recommended as they can reduce the immunity of the tree before the upcoming cold weather. Organics is popular with gardeners, gardeners, it is effective method, however, fresh manure, mullein, poultry droppings cannot be used to feed fruit trees. Waste products of birds or animals can only be used when rotted, dry or diluted with water! The soil is diluted with manure (1 bucket / 1 m²), mullein or litter is diluted with water 1/10 or 1/20. You can also use peat, compost, ash - all additives are scattered over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe trunk circle.

If we consider mineral supplements in the fall for fruit trees, then the most effective of them will be potassium supplements (since nitrogen supplements are applied only in spring). During the winter, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride or potassium salt will have time to process, give the soil all the useful components. Potassium top dressing is especially useful for young trees. Phosphate fertilizers are also important - they have a strengthening effect on the roots, contribute to the active development of all parts of the tree, work on the formation of fruits (number, size of the fruit, its taste), and prevent early leaf shedding.

Fertilizer for berry crops in autumn

As for the common berry crops that every summer resident probably grows, they are brought in between the rows by digging.

Fertilizer for raspberries in autumn

If the raspberries begin to turn yellow, the lower leaves turn, it can be fed with phosphorus, potassium or magnesium supplements. They will prepare the culture for wintering, increase its immunity. Pay attention to "Kalimag" (kalimagnesia), making it under the root gives excellent results. You can also use green manure (lupins, oats, mustard), which are sown between rows by mid-summer, and dug up with soil in the fall. Fertilizer penetration: rows - about 8-10 cm, row spacing - 15 cm. Once in several years, raspberries can be fed with manure (3-4 kg / 1 m² of land).

Fertilizers for strawberries in autumn

The best fertilizer for strawberries in the fall is mullein diluted with water or poultry droppings (1:10). When watering, try not to get on the ground part of the plant. Also rotted cow dung Makes a great mulch for strawberries. wood ash is also relevant (150 g / 1 m²), it is scattered near the bushes, along the aisles. You can dilute it with water, water the bushes (half a liter of solution for each). Ash is quite capable of replacing additives such as potassium salt or superphosphate. The main mineral fertilizers for strawberries in the fall are potassium and phosphorus. They are pre-diluted with water or scattered dry.

Ash, photo:

Gooseberries and currants are also fed with superphosphate, but it is better to make a mixture consisting of potassium sulfate (30 g), 4 kg of manure (but not pork!), Superphosphate (30 g). If you have sandy soil, then such top dressing can be applied every year with the onset of autumn.

Planting mustard in autumn as fertilizer

Mustard is excellent green manure, inexpensive in cost, convenient, because it grows immediately at the site of the intended burial, that is, it does not need to be delivered. It saturates the earth with phosphorus, nitrogen, fights late blight, slugs, putrefactive fungi, and scab. Mustard gives useful elements to the earth, saturates plants with the vital forces necessary for growth and development. It grows rapidly, suppresses other weeds, has a positive effect on the soil structure, stops the processes of leaching of the earth (retains nitrogen). It can be planted next to any crops, it has a beneficial effect on potatoes, grapes, fruit trees, leguminous plants.

Also, mustard can be safely used as a mulching coating that prevents freezing and helps preserve soil moisture.

Siderat mustard, photo:

It is better to sow mustard in order to improve the composition of the soil in the fall, keeping a distance of about 10 cm between the seeds (and not deepening too much). It is better to place the rows 20 cm apart - so the mustard will grow more sprawling, it will have more green mass. The culture sprouts quickly - after 4-5 days you will already be able to observe the sprouts. This method is, of course, good, but most gardeners do not bother planting mustard on separate area, cutting off the ground part, transferring it to fertilized crops. It is much more convenient to sow it immediately where vegetables, fruits, berries grow or will grow.

Thus, you can simply scatter the seeds where necessary, slightly deepen them with a rake (5 g / 1 m²).

Mustard should be cut before it begins to bloom, so that the stems do not have time to properly coarsen (coarse fibers are processed more slowly). After 5-6 weeks after sowing, it must be cut off, if desired, you can pre-pour Baikal EM-1 biofertilizer, it will accelerate the subsequent process of splitting the organic green mass in the soil.

Mustard is not afraid of frost, does not require special care, in other words - you can sow it and forget about it for a couple of weeks.

Autumn is the most comfortable time for fertilizing the soil. The crop is harvested, the land is already preparing for rest, the microorganisms present can actively process the applied top dressing. Autumn recharges improve the soil for the next season, save time, the forces of gardeners with the onset of spring. Most importantly, do not forget about the correct ratio, dosage of nutrients.

Now you know what fertilizers are applied in the fall: some additives need to be chosen taking into account the composition of the soil, but universal organic top dressing will be appropriate always and everywhere.