Indoor roses how to care for them. Growing garden roses: care technology. Such varieties are suitable for the home

Women who do not like beautiful flowers called roses probably do not exist. They are presented to both young girls and ladies of different ages. Together with these wonderful flowers, they confess their love and give them for any holidays. From the petals of these beautiful creatures, various cosmetic skin care products are prepared. Roses are used to make culinary masterpieces. Rose petals are used in folk medicine.

If there is a desire to grow roses - these beautiful flowers on your site, then you must not only have the necessary skills, but also love roses, plus have great patience in caring for them. But roses, experiencing the love of the gardener, will certainly thank him with lush flowering and a wonderful aroma that fills his garden.

In order for roses to take root on the site and please the eye for a long time with their long flowering, you need to know the rules for caring for these popular plants. Therefore, we will consider in detail what needs to be done during the year for good development rose bushes starting in spring.

There are such types of roses as:

• park;
• shrubs;
• Climbing;
• Tea-hybrid;
• floribunda;
• ground covers;
• Canadian.

With such a rich choice, you can plant rose gardens that will take your breath away with delight.

Rose bushes are planted both in spring and autumn, it all depends on the region where the area prepared for planting roses is located. If the gardener lives in Krasnodar Territory or central Russia, then the bushes are planted during September and the first half of October.

During these periods, there is no longer heat and there is enough time and natural precipitation for the bushes to take root in a new place. If rose bushes are planted at the latitude of the Moscow region and to the south, then planting is done in the spring, starting from mid-April, when the sun warms well.

When choosing a place for planting bushes, care must be taken that the sun falls on them during the day. If it is not there, then the flowering of roses will not wait.

Stages of work:

1. When the gardener decides on the landing site, then a pit 50x50 cm is dug out and not a lot of humus and peat is laid in it.
2. The seedling is installed vertically in the pit, its roots are straightened in different sides and covered with earth on all sides. After that, it is necessary to press the ground with your hands so that the voids go away, and the seedling sits firmly in the ground.
3. After all the procedures, it is necessary to water the planted seedling. If at the same time the water washed away the soil, then it should be poured. Planted seedlings must be constantly watered, overdrying of the soil is unacceptable.

Before lowering a rose seedling into a prepared hole, damaged roots are removed from it, and too long ones are shortened. The place where the vaccination was made is buried 5 cm deep into the soil.

When planting rose bushes, it must be taken into account that over time their size will increase and therefore, when planting them along the path, it is necessary to retreat from the planted bush at least 70 cm.

You can propagate the bush in various ways:

1. cuttings;
2. The division of the old bush;
3. layering;
4. by vaccination;
5. Root shoots, in the event that the rose is planted on its own roots.

cuttings

This method of propagating a bush has its advantages. First of all, he will never have wild growth with which he will have to fight. For the cutting, a semi-woody shoot with three buds is taken. The lower cut is made oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper one is made straight to reduce the amount of moisture evaporating from the cutting cut.

The lower cut is processed with any root formation stimulator, the twig with leaves is removed, and the upper leaves are shortened by half. After that, the cutting is planted in peat or sand, deepening the cutting by only a couple of centimeters and tilting it slightly to the side.

Covered with a jar or covered with a package. It is important to create greenhouse moist conditions. For its rooting, it is necessary that it be warm, not lower than 25 degrees Celsius, the humidity should be almost 100%, the sun's rays should not fall on the young plant.

Such a seedling can even be left to winter in the ground if it is planted in central Russia or in the south of our country. But for this, it, together with the jar, is completely buried in the ground and covered with special material.

How to grow a rose from cuttings in potatoes

By dividing the bush

Climbing roses and park roses reproduce with this species in the presence of their own root system. To do this, a bush is dug up and divided in such a way that each separated part has a root system and a pair of branches. Then all parts are planted in the usual way and care for them is needed as for an ordinary seedling.

layering

In this way, ground cover and climbing varieties. To do this, in the spring they take a non-woody shoot, bend it to the ground, put it in a groove 10 cm deep, and pin it. Then you need to fill it with earth and water it. The top of such an escape should look out of the ground. After a year, the branch becomes a seedling and can be separated from the mother bush.

Graft

The grafting is done on rose hips grown either from seeds or cuttings. To do this, take a cutting or eye of the selected variety of rose. Vaccination time is mid-summer. They take a stock and clean the top of it, slightly split the vine, inserting a cutting there. Firmly adhesive plaster attached one to the other. If after a while the growth of the cutting began, then the vaccination was a success.

But it is best to immediately buy the rose variety you like in special garden centers. When choosing a seedling, it is necessary that it has three branches for the development of a lush bush. Having healthy roots is a must! Leaves should not be dry.

Rose care is needed day after day, as removing weeds and loosening the soil is not only giving the rose garden a decent look, but also serves as a prerequisite for the cultivation of roses. Loosening begins in May and continues to loosen the ground around the bush until the end of summer.

Further loosening is stopped so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots. By loosening the soil, the root system receives more air and this stimulates the growth of new shoots on the bush. It is especially good to do this in hot summer after watering.

After prolonged rains, a crust forms on the surface of the soil, it blocks the access of oxygen to the root system of the plant. Therefore, during such periods, it is necessary to do additional loosening of the soil so that the bushes can grow and develop normally. But you need to know that loosening around the bush is carried out to a depth of no more than 10 cm, so as not to damage the small roots of the root system of the bush.

Mulching and fertilizing rose bushes

Mulching the soil around the bush is carried out in order to retain moisture in the soil and partially get rid of weeds. And if mulching is carried out using peat or rotted manure, then this will also serve as an additional fertilizer for the plant. Peat or other mulching material is laid out in a layer of up to ten centimeters. But all this must be done before the start of the dissolution of the buds on the bush.

After planting a rose in its first summer, the bush is fertilized three times. So because of biological features roses in different time need a variety of supplements.

Greater efficiency gives the simultaneous fertilizer with mineral and organic fertilizers. Since organic matter nourishes rose bushes, saturating it with nitrogen.

We must not forget that all top dressing must be done either after rain or after watering. This is done so that the root system does not burn when taking fertilizer on dry ground. If the grower decides to use dry fertilizers, they should never be poured into the center of the bush.

Fertilizers are sprinkled around the bush at a distance of about 20 cm, and after that it is necessary to water the plants again so that the fertilizers get into the soil. If the soil on the site is clayey, then top dressing is carried out less often, and if the soil is sandy, then top dressing should be carried out more often, since there is almost no organic matter in such soil.

When there is a long flowering period, roses do not need to be fed at all.

Rose bushes, like all plants, need watering. If you do not water, then the bushes lose their leaves and buds fade prematurely or do not bloom at all. Most of all, roses need water during the period of growth of the vegetative mass and until the end of the first flowering.

Watering is done with warm water in the amount of 10 liters. under each bush. Water is poured under each bush, into a trench specially designated for this, and not into the center of the bush. In hot sunny weather, when watering a rose bush, it is better not to splash water on the leaves when watering, as this can provoke the appearance of brown spots on the foliage. This will be the result of burns.

Watering is done once a week, and if the degrees go off scale for 35 degrees of heat, then on such days roses will respond well to evening sprinkling - this is watering done in the evening with a hose not only under the bush, but also along the leaves of the bush. But this is only watered on hot days, when a shadow from the setting sun formed on the site.

How to grow roses in your garden - proper watering

If the bushes are watered daily and a little at a time, then such watering will not help the plant get drunk. Since it has a root system that goes into the depths of the earth by 2-3 meters.

It is important to remember that watering roses cold water it is impossible, because at the same time the rose bushes begin to hurt, their thin roots die off and after a while the plant begins to dehydrate.

There are also features in watering at the end of the season. At the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced, as it is necessary to give time for the shoots to ripen. Therefore, autumn precipitation is quite enough for watering roses. Only in a particularly hot September or in the Krasnodar Territory, watering should be done, but only in half the dose - 6 liters. under the bush once a week. Ripened shoots will be better able to endure wintering in the latitudes of Russia.

The care of roses also includes sheltering them for the winter. Since this is a heat-loving plant, a cold snap of up to -10 degrees can cause the death of the plant. Some advise to prune unripe shoots for the winter, and some prune in the spring only what has not survived the winter and has turned black.

To shelter roses, you can cover them with earth, peat or compost from above. All this can be diluted with pine sawdust. Covering material is prepared in advance and at the first cold snap they cover the bushes with them. The layer of covering material should be approximately 35-40 cm. If the area with rose bushes is located at the latitude of Moscow, then it is covered with lutrasil or spruce branches from above.

Everything that is prepared for warming roses must be dry, otherwise, when it gets cold, it will be covered with ice and it will be impossible to shelter roses for the winter.

The method of sheltering with lutrasil cannot be used on soils with close groundwater or marshy soil, because a greenhouse effect will occur and the roses will freeze out in winter. In the spring, when the weather settles above zero, the covering material is carefully removed, and the remnants of earth or peat are washed off with a bucket of water.

Spring is the time when the bush develops intensively from buds that have survived the long cold months of winter. If cooling to sub-zero temperatures is no longer expected, then the bushes should be dug out of the shelter for the winter. This is easy to do if you simply pour a bucket of water into the middle of the bush. The excess land that covered the bush in winter will go in different directions around the bush. It is better to do this on cloudy days so that the branches that were under the cover of snow and earth do not burn in the spring sun.

At this time, a new growth of branches begins, on which flower buds are laid and young leaves grow, depending on the variety, either light green or red. At the same time, the branches of the stock (rosehip) can sprout, they should be cut out so that the bush does not turn into an ordinary rosehip instead of a wonderful rose bush over time.

How to distinguish the shoots of wild rose? He's over light color and an almost completely straight fast-growing shoot, it grows to a height of about a meter in a couple of days, clogging the branches of a rose. To get rid of it, you should carefully dig a bush in the place where this wild shoot appeared from the ground and simply cut it off in the ground with a pruner or a sharp shovel. Let the cut dry for a couple of hours and dig this place.

It is also necessary to cut off all blackened shoots. These shoots are frozen and dormant buds that will grow in spring and summer do not exist on them. Therefore, the shoots are cut to a healthy place on the branch, and at the same time the last waiting bud should not be located inside the bush, but outside. This will help to avoid thickening the bush and form its shape correctly. Pruning should not be done in rainy weather, so as not to provoke rotting branches.

After spring pruning, bushes should be fed either with mullein infusion diluted 1 to 10 or with complete mineral fertilizer. This will help the bush grow branches and lay flower buds on them, which will delight with their flowering.

To prevent roses from getting sick, it is best to prevent the development of the disease. After all, the bush, when caring for it, is always in front of your eyes, and, noticing the onset of the disease or a small nest of pests, you need to cut off this part of the bush, and treat the remaining branches with the appropriate preparation.

Pests and diseases of roses

Even new hybrids that are resistant to most pests sometimes pick up various diseases of rose bushes:

• gray rot;
• powdery mildew;
• rusty spots on the leaves;
• cicadas;
• various types of ticks;
• leaf rollers and sawmills.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also contribute to the occurrence of these diseases. Therefore, when examining rose bushes, at the slightest manifestation of a disease or pests, one must begin to get rid of such a scourge, otherwise all bushes may suffer.

About - read here.

Among house plants, the indoor rose deserves special attention. Following simple instructions for creating optimal conditions cultivation of this flower, it is possible to achieve good development of culture and unsurpassed beauty of flowering.

flower description

Indoor rose is an evergreen shrub plant and belongs to the Rosaceae family. Its homeland is Southeast Asia. The stems of the plant are long and flexible. The leaves have a green color that varies from light to dark tones. The rose has been cultivated for several centuries. Such popularity of the flower is facilitated by its high decorative qualities and pleasant aroma which he publishes. To date, there are more than 200 species and about 25 thousand varieties of this crop. The rose can be grown outdoors, in a greenhouse and indoors.

Varieties suitable for home growing:

1. Bengal rose. It blooms from May to October with minor interruptions. Unlike other varieties, it does not have a pronounced dormant state, in winter time does not shed leaves. Flowers reach 5 cm in diameter, can be white, pink or red. Keep fresh for up to 10 days.
2. Chinese rose. Grows up to 30 cm in height. Shrubs are highly branched. The color of the flowers is white or pink, their diameter reaches 2 cm. The plant has straight shoots and small leaves. The stems have the ability to change color as the crop grows. Young shoots are red, but become green over time.
3. Baby Carnival is different abundant flowering. The leaves are leathery, the buds are oval. Flowers are lemon-chrome.
4. Eleanor reaches a length of 30 cm. The shrub is straight. Flowers grow up to 3 cm in diameter, have a pink color. Elongated buds. The rose of this variety emits a faint aroma.
5. Pixie is a small plant up to 20 cm high. The flowers of this culture are not particularly large in size, their diameter is no more than 1.5 cm. The leaves are also small. pixie - frost-resistant variety capable of withstanding low temperatures.
6. Coraline - tall shrub, grows up to 35 cm. It blooms almost continuously. The plant has good branching. About 200 flowers bloom on one shrub, each of which has a diameter of 3 to 5 cm.

Photo gallery: Varieties of roses for home growing

Bengal rose will be a bright accent in the house

original chinese rose

Dense blooming rose Baby Carnival

Graceful and unpretentious rose Eleanor

Delicate and charming Pixie

Abundantly flowering variety coraline

Room rose care

Watering

At different times of the year, you need to change the intensity of moisture

At each stage of its development, the rose needs a different intensity of watering. In the spring, her dormant period ends. At this time, as new leaves form, watering is gradually increased. If earlier it was required 50-100 ml of liquid per day, then 100-150 ml per bush will be needed. But it is important not to overdo it here: excessive moisture adversely affects the root system of the plant and can lead to its decay.

Important! The rose tolerates a lack of water more easily than its excess.

In the process of watering, you need to monitor the state of the culture in order to understand whether the care is being carried out correctly. There are several signs that signal a mistake has been made:

1. The appearance of small white insects on the surface of the soil.
2. The soil becomes slippery to the touch and begins to emit a sour smell.

All this is evidence of overflow. To correct the situation in the first case, it is enough to reduce the amount of water. The second requires more substantial measures. The flower must be immediately transplanted into a new soil, washing its roots well. Moreover, this must be done immediately after the discovery of a problem, otherwise the rose will die.

With the onset of summer, the abundance of watering should be increased. During this period, there is an active development of flowers, and the culture needs in large numbers moisture (up to 200 ml per day). Plants also need water for cooling. In mid-August, watering begins to be reduced. But if the rose still continues to bloom profusely, it is moistened in the same mode until the flowering becomes less intense.

Watering at the end of September and the first half of October, when there is a decrease in temperature, requires special attention. The drying of the soil slows down, and the likelihood of overflow increases. In winter, moisture is reduced to a minimum. The frequency of watering depends on the temperature regime: the colder it is in the room where the rose is located, the less often you need to add water.

The temperature of the fluid used must also be taken into account. AT summer time it must be warm, otherwise a sharp change in temperature level will damage the roots. For the same reason, in winter, the plant is watered with cold water. There is also the possibility of premature growth of the culture. You can use snow that fits in a pot on the surface of the soil. Cannot be applied tap water, it contains a high concentration of chlorine, which negatively affects the health of the plant.

Important! Water should be used only filtered or settled throughout the day.

top dressing

Good nutrition is the key to beautiful flowering

In order for a rose to fully develop, it needs to be fed. For this purpose, fertilizers "Pokon", "Effect", "Ideal" are used. Preparations are diluted at the rate of 2 caps per 1 liter of water. Used once every 7-10 days. The fertilization process has the following features:

1. Before applying top dressing, the soil is abundantly watered with water. Fertilizing dry soil can cause root burns.
2. The transplanted flower begins to be fed 14 days after it is moved to a new container. The plant should start growing.
3. In autumn, for roses, compositions with a low nitrogen content are used - "Bonsa". The product is diluted with water in a ratio of 1.5 ml per 1 liter.
4. When the plant is in the stage of active development, it needs large quantity top dressing. When growth slows down, the frequency of application is reduced.
5. Always follow the recommended dosage.

Important! It is better to apply less composition than to salt the earth with an excessive amount of the mixture.

You can fertilize a rose and organic matter. For this purpose, bird droppings or manure is suitable. Natural dressing is prepared as follows:

1. The litter is poured with water and left for 10-12 days.
2. After this time, the composition is filtered and diluted with water.
3. The ratio of components depends on the type of fertilizer. Manure from farm animals is diluted at the rate of 1 part of the mixture to 5 parts of water. Bird droppings are diluted in a ratio of 1:10.

Transfer

When transplanting, it is important to follow the sequence of actions

The rose can be transplanted in the first half of spring. new pot should exceed the former by 3-4 cm in diameter and 5 cm in height. The process is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. Pre-culture must be watered and wait until the moisture is absorbed.
2. Then the container with the flower is turned over and shaken a little, holding the rose with your hand.
3. A layer of drainage 1 cm thick is poured at the bottom of the pot (expanded clay is used for this). With absence drain hole The layer thickness should be 4 cm.
4. Then the plant is placed in a new container and covered with earth. Between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot, you need to leave a distance of 2-3 cm. The rose needs nutritious soil. The soil mixture should consist of sand, humus and soddy soil. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1:4:4. In specialized stores you can find the finished composition "Rose".
5. The transplanted culture is placed for a day in a shaded place or on north side. The leaves of the plant can be sprinkled, but it should not be watered immediately. After 24 hours, the rose is placed on the east or south side.

Important! To avoid overheating of the flower at high air temperatures, the pot is placed in a pan with water on a stand.

Video: Workshop on transplanting room roses

How to crop

There are three types of pruning:

• light;
• moderate;
• strong.

The first method involves removing two-thirds of the length of the stem. This pruning is used for vigorous varieties. You should not use this method continuously for several years, otherwise the shrub will stretch out and bloom poorly.

Moderate pruning involves removing half the length of the stem. Suitable for adult shrubs.

With strong pruning, the shoot is removed in the area of ​​​​the third or fourth bud from the base. This method is used for newly planted shrubs. It is not recommended for adult plants. The exception is weak shrubs that need rejuvenation.

Video: Instructions for pruning a flower

Care after flowering

Before rest, the rose needs to be cut

After flowering, the rose begins to prepare for rest. Watering should be reduced, the dosage of fertilizers applied should be reduced. The plant is placed in a room with a temperature of 15-17 ° C (you can not place the culture near heat sources). Shoots and stems are cut so that 5 buds are left on them.

Uncut shrubs with the onset of active growth will grow strongly, and the size of the flowers will be smaller than expected. This is due to the fact that blind shoots will take nutrients from the soil.

How to take care in winter

At rest, reduce watering

The winter season is a dormant period for a rose, requiring changes in its maintenance regime. The plant is transferred to a cool place where the temperature is in the range of 6-8 ° C. Since apartments are heated at this time of the year, the best place is a glazed balcony or loggia.

The culture should be in warm soil. To do this, the pot is placed in a box with sawdust. It is necessary to regularly monitor the temperature level in the room where the plant is located. If the indicator drops below 6 ° C, the rose should be moved to a warmer place. Watering is carried out rarely, only when the soil dries out.

Important! Spraying is not carried out in winter.

Question of reproduction

There are several ways to propagate roses:

• with the help of cuttings, offspring and layering;
• by dividing the bush.

Cuttings - the most fast way rose breeding

The cutting process has the following features:

1. Summer is considered the best period for breeding. Cuttings are cut from the branches, each of them should have 2-3 buds.
2. The bottom cut must be made oblique. The kidney should be directed upwards. The top cut is straight.
3. The cuttings are placed in water or in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1). It is important to do this before the planting material dries.
4. The water in which the cutting is located must not be poured out, even if the liquid turns green. When the roots appear and reach a size of 1-2 cm, the plant should be planted in a pot.
5. Sprouts should be placed in a well-lit place, but they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Cuttings need to be watered periodically. After two weeks, young flowers will appear.

At home, the culture is also propagated by dividing the bush:

1. It is recommended to perform this procedure in the spring. The bush is removed from the pot and cut with sharp knife or secateurs into several parts. In each, you need to save several shoots.
2. Roots damaged during digging are cut to a healthy area. Shoots are also shortened. It is enough to leave 3-4 kidneys on each. Small branches are removed.
3. The roots are dipped in a clay solution and the culture is planted in a pot.

Important! In order for the bush to form correctly, the upper buds must be directed to the outside or side.

Diseases and pests

Room rose diseases can be caused by improper care.

Indoor rose exposed various diseases and pest infestation. Among the most common problems, we highlight the following:

1. The appearance of a spider mite. In a flower affected by this pest, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. On their bases you can see a small cobweb. A damaged plant may dry out. The tick itself is quite difficult to see due to its small size. The danger of this pest also lies in the ability to carry infectious diseases. The preparations "Aktellik" (1 ml per 1 liter of water), "Fitoferm" (2 ml per 1 liter of water) will help get rid of it. The latter can also be used for preventive purposes, treating the plant 2 times a year (in spring and autumn).
2. Formation of powdery mildew. it fungal disease, which can be detected by a white coating on the leaves of the flower. If left untreated, the plant dies. This disease should be fought with the help of Topaz (2 ml per 5 liters of water). When using, an interval of two weeks must be observed. Prevention is moderate watering, as the fungus develops in a humid environment.
3. The defeat of the flower "black leg" - a disease that occurs as a result of excessive watering and weakened immunity of the plant. Rose stems turn black. The soil is watered strong mortar manganese potassium. And also "Fitosporin", which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. Treatment is effective only at the first stage of the disease; at an advanced stage, the flower cannot be saved.

Growing indoor roses is not particularly difficult. The main condition is the observance of all the rules required for the growth and flowering of the culture. it temperature regime, watering, fertilizing, pruning. Equally important is pest control, which can be avoided by timely preventive measures.

It is difficult to find a flower as popular and beloved as a rose. Mentions of it are found in sources belonging to the III-IV centuries BC. But, despite the antiquity of its origin, it is still the queen of flowers, occupying one of the first places in terms of flowering time and beauty among other ornamental plants.

Choosing a site for planting roses

To successfully grow roses, the site for them must be prepared very carefully. The most important thing is that they have not been grown there before. According to the composition of the soil, loamy soils are considered the most suitable, with a humus content of not more than 3%. Another composition of the soil is desirable to change. To do this, add an additional amount of either sand or clay, depending on the needs of the soil.

In autumn, the site is dug up to a depth of 60 cm, organic matter is added.

Planting roses

Roses are a crop that can be planted from spring to early autumn. In the spring they are recommended to be planted until the second decade of April. 10 days before this, holes are prepared according to the scheme 40x40x40 cm. After a few days, a layer of 5-10 cm of humus mixed with soil is filled into the holes.

roses can be planted after a week. The roots are cut to 20-25 cm before planting, 4 shoots are left from the aerial part, shortening them to 3 eyes. The remaining shoots are removed completely. The seedlings are lowered into the holes, evenly distributing the roots inside, falling asleep with soil so that there are no voids between the roots, then upper layer compact and give abundant watering. After that, the aerial part must be sprinkled with soil to protect against return frosts and moisture evaporation.

At the beginning of July, last year's seedlings can be planted, filling, if necessary, places from roses that died during the winter. The holes for them are made spacious, after planting they are watered abundantly and shaded for 2 weeks using coniferous paws.

In autumn, it is advisable to plant roses in the last decade of September. They will have time to take root well before the onset of frost, the buds do not germinate. Earlier and later landings are undesirable. If the plants endured the winter well, they bloom 10-12 days earlier than after planting in early spring.

Caring for young plantings of roses

The further growth and development of the plant largely depends on the correct care in the first year.

As soon as young shoots began to appear, roses are freed from the soil that was used for hilling. It is recommended to remove the earth in cloudy weather or in the evening. If the weather is sunny and hot, it is better to shade the bushes with conifers until the young shoots get stronger. After 2 weeks, you can do the first pruning of the main shoot, shortening it over the second or third leaf. The same is done in the future with lateral shoots of the second order, while the upper eye should remain on the outside of the trunk, and the eyes going inward are removed. This will allow the bush to form correctly.

Further care for roses is the systematic loosening of the soil, the removal of weeds, the prevention of diseases, the feeding of liquid organic fertilizers. The best fertilizer for roses is slurry, which contains all the substances necessary for the plant. Enough 3-4 dressings per season, starting from the second decade of June and ending with the first decade of August. A solution for feeding is prepared from mullein and water in a ratio of 1:3, stirred and left for 10 days, diluted with water 1:10 before feeding.

Before top dressing, the soil under the roses is watered, and when the water is absorbed, 3 liters of top dressing are applied per bush. The next day, the soil must be loosened.

Advice!

It is not recommended to apply mineral fertilizers to the mixture for feeding plantings of the current year. However, it is imperative to remove the emerging wild growth by cutting it out at the base.

In the first year, early flowering of young plants should not be allowed. Until the beginning of August, the buds are removed from the bushes. Leave 1-2 flowers on each shoot and do not cut them off so that fruits set in the fall. Such plants ripen better and bloom more abundantly next year.

Throughout the summer, preventive treatment from pests, using available preparations according to the instructions.

Shelter of young bushes for the winter is carried out when sub-zero temperatures begin. It is recommended to cover the bushes completely, using coniferous paws. In spring, young bushes open first, and then older ones.

Caring for roses from previous plantings

Plantings from previous years usually bloom several times over the entire growing season. After each flowering, part of the shoots is cut off, ensuring the next flowering.

The soil to a depth of 10 cm is loosened twice a month, providing access to oxygen to the roots. Twice a season, they also dig up the site itself, to a depth of up to 25 cm. The first time this is done after the opening of roses, the second - at the end of August.

Watering roses is necessary regular and plentiful, in hot weather - weekly. It is especially important during the period of growth and during the period of bud formation. The earth circle near the bushes is watered, and the next day loosening is carried out.

Top dressing is carried out regularly, making organic and mineral fertilizers. The same composition is used as for young plantings, however, humus is used instead of mullein and 10 mg of potash and phosphorus fertilizers are added.

rose pruning

Pruning is a very important procedure in the life of roses. It stimulates the growth of young shoots, renews the plant, prevents the absorption of nutrients by old weak shoots, and allows you to form a beautiful and healthy bush. Properly and timely pruned, roses can bloom for up to 25 years or more.

At different stages of development of bushes, pruning is carried out weak, medium and strong. Weak accelerates flowering, with it only the top of the shoot is removed. With an average, 5-7 kidneys are left, with a strong one - 2-3. To carry out pruning, you need a good secateurs, which make a cut at an acute angle 1 cm above the eye.

Primary pruning is carried out in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. Remove and burn all dead shoots. The next, more thorough, is done after opening the bushes and awakening the kidneys.

In polyanthus roses, pruning is done immediately strong, it stimulates continuous flowering these varieties. In remontant roses, annually a third of the shoots are pruned strongly, and two-thirds are weakly pruned. In climbing - remove damaged shoots and part of last year's faded ones. Young, not flowering, can not be cut, they will bloom next year.

After flowering on roses, all wilted and beginning to fade flowers are removed, cutting them off with part of the shoot to the second eye. Summer pruning eliminates the formation of fruits, and new buds quickly grow and give the next wave of flowering.

The last pruning is carried out in the second half of August, leaving several buds on each bush. This helps the plant better prepare for winter.

Simultaneously with pruning, it is necessary to regularly remove wild growth, which weakens the plant and can later cause the death of the cultivated part of the bush. Wild shoots are removed at the very base.

Rose breeding

There is a vegetative method of reproduction, and seed. Almost all garden varieties propagated vegetatively, and wild species and hybrids - by seeds.

After budding, there is a more powerful growth of bushes, high frost resistance, and drought resistance. However, the process is time-consuming, lengthy and less suitable for beginner flower growers. Standard seedlings can be obtained only in the third year.

Cuttings require less labor, flowering is obtained already in the second year, there is no need to grow a stock. However, when propagated by cuttings, roses are more sensitive to adverse conditions.

Budding can be done from late April to mid-September. The area where the stock grows (most often rose hips) is watered abundantly a week before the work, so that the bark begins to peel off easily at the rootstock. Then the rootstock cuttings are cut out from the middle part of the faded shoots of roses, the leaves are removed from them, leaving the petioles.

BY THE WAY!

Cuttings can be prepared 1-2 days before budding and kept in a damp and cool place. Eyes from such cuttings take root better. For spring budding, cuttings are most often harvested in autumn and stored in wet sand at a temperature of +1...2°C.

The eye for budding is cut off with a bark shield up to 1.5 cm long. The petiole is retained, since it is more convenient to insert the eye under the bark with it.

Before the start of budding, the root collar is opened near the base of the bush, the bark is wiped, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar and a cultural eye is inserted into it. Then the place of budding is tightly tied. The rootstock is spudded with earth and 2 weeks are waiting for the fusion of the eye and the rootstock.

In the spring of next year, the above-ground part of the stock is cut off 1 cm above the place of budding in order to nutrients aim at the developing eye. Further care - as for annual plants.

Cuttings are usually carried out after the first flowering, within a month, starting from the second decade of July. Only faded and lignified shoots are taken for cuttings. The cuttings are cut from the middle part of the annual shoot, keeping at least 2 eyes per cutting. The lower cut is made 1 cm below the kidney, and the upper one is above the kidney. Cuttings are immediately planted in the ground under cover.

The soil in the lower part consists of horse manure, then there is a layer of soddy soil, and in the upper part - river sand. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60 °, deepening by a third. The distance in the rows is 5-6 cm. Between the rows is 7-8 cm. The temperature for rooting is required at least + 24 ° C, humidity - up to 90%. A day later, the cuttings are opened and sprayed with water. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. Before frost, cuttings with young leaves are covered with dry foliage with a layer of up to 30 cm, and a layer of spruce branches. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place.

standard roses

These are very showy plants in the form of small trees strewn with beautiful flowers. Rosehip varieties such as canina and rugosa are used as rootstock for standard roses. The fruits, which ripen at the end of August, are harvested in the state of the beginning of reddening of the shell. Such fruits germinate faster. Before sowing, rosehip seeds are mixed with pitch and kept wet for 2 weeks. In September, they are sown in the ground, watered and mulched with peat.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out 2-3 times with breaks of 5-6 days. Shoots will appear in May next year .. In the second decade of June, they dive according to the scheme 40 × 80 cm. organic fertilizer, 2-3 times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut at the base, leaving 1-2 of the strongest. The next growing season, the trunk itself is grown, regularly removing root growth and all awakened buds on the bottom of the left shoots.

A well-developed root system allows boles to grow up to 1.5 m by July. During this period, budding begins, using 2-3 eyes for grafting. They are grafted on both sides of the shoot, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Above the grafted eyes, 1-2 shortened lateral shoots are left, the rest are removed. If there are eyes and shoots below the budding site, they must also be removed, wrap the budding site plastic wrap. The bandage is removed after 2 weeks, when the eyes take root. Shoots or buds above the place of budding are removed. For grafting, varieties of cultivated roses with large fragrant flowers are used.

Winter shelter of roses

In the second half of August, watering, loosening and pruning are stopped. Roses begin to cover when the temperature drops to + 3 ° C. A traditional and reliable shelter is considered to be spruce branches, a layer of soil and wooden shields.

Combined shelter - needles and earth, is considered the most reliable. The earth does not stick to the shoots; air space, which allows you to better save the bush.

• Kind: rosaceous
• Flowering period: June July August September
• Height: 30-300cm
• Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, wine red
• perennial
• hibernates
• sun-loving
• moisture-loving

If the lion is the king of beasts, then the rose is the absolute queen of the garden. This plant has long been considered an object of admiration and worship. No wonder it was chosen as a symbol of love. The first mention of the rose can be found in the legends of the ancient Hindus. legends about beautiful flower found in the annals of ancient Iran. Charming according to legend white rose with very sharp thorns Allah himself created. She was supposed to become the mistress of flowers instead of the magnificent, but very lazy Lotus. Today, this plant can become a real decoration for your gardens, but for this you need to learn how to choose and plant a seedling, what proper care for roses.

Planting and caring for roses is not as difficult as it seems. It is important to follow simple rules, and your garden will be filled with magnificent fragrant bushes.

Selecting and maintaining seedlings

In order to initially ensure success in growing roses, it is necessary to purchase high-quality planting material. It is better to choose plants whose root system will be closed. When planting such a seedling, the ground around the root must be preserved.

Rose seedlings are best chosen with a closed root system: they take root more easily at the planting site and get sick less.

Often in modern supermarkets you can see imported roses with a closed root system, which are sold in advance. Several seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf at a temperature of 0 to +5°C. During storage, you will have to regularly monitor the condition of the substrate around the rhizome. It should not dry out completely, but too much moisture is also harmful for it.

Advice! A solution of root or heteroauxin promotes root growth, so you can water seedlings with it several times.

When should roses be planted?

Most roses are recommended for autumn planting. The preferred work period starts in mid-September and ends in mid-October. An earlier planting time is undesirable due to the fact that the rose can give fresh shoots in the warmth, which will not have time to get stronger and freeze in winter. late boarding is also dangerous, because the plant must take root before frost.

Most roses are planted in autumn. This is also convenient because when buying planting material on the market, you can see the flower itself

Planting flowers in May. Helpful Hints gardeners and a calendar of May plantings:

Decide on a place to land

The place for planting roses should be sunny. In the shade, roses can get bored, they stop flowering, appear on the leaves of plants dark spots, blind shoots are formed. The plant can be affected by powdery mildew. Choose an area that is ventilated, but has protection from strong northerly winds.

Roses decorate the garden, regardless of their location, but the plants themselves need conditions for successful growth and flowering.

Roses have no special preferences in terms of soil. They are not as capricious as it may seem. Any soil is suitable for them, except for heavy clay and light sandy loam. The landing site should not be located where ground water close to the surface of the earth.

The process of planting roses

Planting pits need to be dug deep and wide enough for the roots of the plant to be spacious. If the soil is fertile, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be sufficient. For clay soil with the same width of the pit, you need to dig 60-70 cm deep.

It is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture for backfilling in a pit. It contains humus or compost, rotted manure and soil. Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of the plant, so we sprinkle them with a layer of soil.

The soil or substrate that covers the roots of the plant must be preserved: the rose quickly adapts to new living conditions

Pour water into the hole before planting the seedling so that it is absorbed. If the root system of the rose is closed, it is not necessary to free the root from the ground. If the root is free, it must be cut to a third of the length and soaked in plain water or a root growth stimulator for two hours.

Shoots should also be cut:

• in polyanthus and hybrid tea roses so that 2-3 buds remain on each of the shoots;
• leave 3-4 buds for floribunda roses;
• in park roses, the shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm;
• only cuts of the roots are cut off (updated, not shortened).

The seedling should be sprinkled with earth so that the grafting site is about 5 cm below the ground. Wax should be removed from the place of deepening, if any. The earth should be compacted and watered again. In this way, air that could remain around the roots is removed, and the closest contact between the plant and the soil is achieved. You can spud a seedling by about 10-15 cm. The resulting hill should be removed in two weeks - the time during which the seedling should take root.

Reproduction of the queen of the garden

There are not so many ways to propagate roses. But the desire to have as many of these undeniably beautiful and diverse plants as possible on the site is so great that gardeners strive to master them all and to the maximum extent. Here is a list of ways to propagate a rose:

• Budding. On the bark of the plant stem close to the ground level, a T-shaped incision is made into which the kidney is inserted. cultivar, after which it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. Such an operation is not difficult, but requires some experience.
• Seeds. This method is used extremely rarely due to the fact that the result has to wait a long time, and there is no certainty that it will be positive. And the germination of rose seeds leaves much to be desired.
• Layering. Shrub and climbing roses are propagated this way because they have long and strong stems. The shoot of the plant in the lower part is cut for 8 cm, a sliver or match is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in the ground and fixed, and its free tip is tied to a peg. The rooted shoot is cut off from the parent bush.
• Cuttings. The method is good because roses rooted in this way will not give wild shoots. The cutting is part of a strong shoot. It is cut next to the leaf bud, and germinated using root stimulants. After the appearance of the root, the rose can be planted in the ground.

The layering method is good only for propagating plants with long stems, which are used to create a new rose bush

Rules for caring for a garden rose

For the rose to bloom and delight its owners long years, you should pay attention to her, do not forget to feed her and protect her from viral diseases. Do not be afraid of difficulties: growing in the garden is not as difficult as it seems.

Plant nutrition

Manure is a natural fertilizer and preference should, of course, be given to it. The best horse manure is considered to be at least six months old. Chicken and pig manure, especially in fresh, can seriously harm the plant: it is sour and can simply burn young shoots. Fresh manure also has a bad effect on the soil, because it blocks nitrogen.

Manure is a natural fertilizer, therefore the most acceptable. When choosing top dressing, preference should be given to rotted horse manure or mullein.

During the formation of buds, you need to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. At the time of active growth and development of the plant, it should be watered every 10-15 days with herbal infusion, a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken manure or infused mullein. In order for the top dressing to be better perceived by the plant, it is better to apply the same mineral fertilizers in dissolved form and after the next watering. When the first half of summer is already behind, that is, in the second part of July, rose feeding stops. The plant is getting ready for winter.

Plants can also survive stress. It is in this state that they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. To make it easier for roses to overcome difficult times in their lives, you need to spray them with zircon, epin, ecosil or sodium humate. Overfed roses produce abundant greenery, but bloom very sparingly.

The order of watering the plant

Roses should be watered no more than once a week. If the summer is hot, then the frequency of watering can be doubled. Irrigation rate - bucket warm water for each bush. It is necessary to pour water under the root, trying not to get on the foliage. Water should penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 20-30 cm. If watering roses is shallow, superficial roots can form, which are easily damaged.

A rose in the dew is a magnificent sight, but nature decreed that the dew disappears with the first rays of the sun, otherwise its drops, like magnifying glasses, would amplify the energy of the sun and burn the petals: you need to water the roses at the root

If there is no one to water the roses for a long time (more than a week), the soil at the base of the plant should be covered with humus, mowed grass or tree bark. Such a measure will not only retain moisture at the roots, but also prevent the growth of weeds.

With a lack of moisture, the flowers of the plant may become small, but roses should not be poured either: this can lead to a reduction in oxygen supply to the roots. As a result, the leaves of the plant will turn yellow. To prevent this from happening, do not forget to loosen the soil after watering.

Of course, proper feeding and watering are important, but the process of caring for a garden rose is not limited to this. One of the most unpleasant diseases for garden roses is powdery mildew. Preventive measures will help take care of the health of the plant in advance. The rose must be sprayed directly on the leaves with a solution of ordinary baking soda at the rate of 40g of soda per liter of water. This must be done from spring 2-3 times a week, as well as at the beginning of summer.

Plants, like all living things on earth, can get sick. These are not random spots or traces of fertilizers. This is powdery mildew, which is easier to prevent than to treat.

Aphids are a big nuisance for roses. But you can overcome it. To do this, boil a bucket of water, put a piece of grated laundry soap and a couple of branches of wormwood, after which they cook for 10-15 minutes. A cooled and filtered solution of roses is sprayed. A week later, the procedure should be repeated. If the aphid stubbornly does not want to leave the plant, you will have to use a systemic poison, for example, Aktara.

Aphids will not appear on roses at all if you plant lavender or nasturtium under them. And calendula and marigolds will help get rid of beetles. By the way, onion and garlic will add health to roses, like people. In their environment, plants become more fragrant and get sick less.

Spots on the leaves, cracks in the stems and the cessation of bud development indicate the disease. Affected branches should be removed. Prepare an infusion of horsetail, wormwood and nettle, which is sprayed on the rose.

A few words about rose pruning

Plant shoots growing inward should be cut off. This stimulates the emergence of young shoots and active flowering. Withering flowers need to be removed, then the saved forces of the plant will be directed to a new wave of flowering, which will be more abundant.

Just look how beautiful! But all this splendor can be grown with your own hands. If someone has succeeded, you will definitely succeed too.

There are many pruning rules and this topic is undoubtedly worth it to be devoted to.

No one will argue that the name of the queen of the garden was given to the rose for a reason. In the future, it is unlikely that anyone will be able to move her from this pedestal, little will change in terms of the main types of roses, which have long been determined in conditional classification adopted among rose breeders, gardeners and flower growers.

The only thing that changes with the passage of time is that the cultivation of roses is no longer the prerogative of professionals - now anyone, even an absolute beginner in gardening, can start growing them. This happens because new varieties of roses have been developed that grow without outside help and require very little care.

Another reason why the popularity of roses has increased again is the fact that new varieties have been bred with thick double flowers, fragrant and reminiscent of ancient varieties of ancestors.

The last decade in the development of new roses has been a particularly intensive work with attempts to combine both qualities. The result is the emergence of many varieties of roses that combine both aroma and beautiful flowers and endurance, both to diseases and pests that do not require everyday and tedious care.

To make it easier for gardeners to deal with various types and varieties of roses and choose the appropriate ones, let's start by dividing them into conditional groups or categories.

Conditional because as a result of breeding work to develop new varieties of roses, the boundaries between them are gradually erased, some species and varieties, having borrowed species characteristics from others, become similar to each other to the degree of confusion, so it is often difficult even to determine which group a particular rose belongs to professional..

We offer you here a classification that is often used by amateurs, summer residents and ordinary, non-professional flower growers to identify roses in rose gardens, flower beds and flower beds. According to her, roses are divided into species and groups, depending on how they are used in the garden, on the site, and of course, on the shape of the rose bush itself.

These will be standard, shrub and flower bed roses. Roses are divided into generally accepted categories: climbing, ground cover, miniature, park and hybrid tea roses. We mentioned most of them on the pages of the site www.Vsaduidoma.ru

The main types of garden roses

climbing roses

Let's preliminarily divide them into 2 groups: Ramblers and climbers

Roses ramblers These are climbing roses reaching a length of 6 meters. The stems are flexible and small. 2-3 centimeters in diameter. The flowers of most rambler roses are collected in inflorescences, quite large. Blossom 1 time, flowering time 27-30 days. As a rule, there is no aroma at all, but there are also very weakly smelling varieties of ramblers. Requires supports or garters.

Climber roses- weaving roses, the stems, unlike ramblers, grow straight, and they are thicker than the latter, reaching 3 meters in length. Flowers reach a diameter of 10 centimeters, collected in small inflorescences. In central Russia, they bloom twice, flowering is long, very plentiful and lush. It is easy to winter, a thorough shelter for varieties of climbers is not required.

ground cover roses

The most frequent roses in flower beds and garden design elements. This is primarily due to the diversity of their growth forms - ground cover roses can be both creeping and upright (upright). They bloom all season - from spring to late autumn, usually about half a meter in height, but can be higher. The range of flowers, or rather their forms and types, is the most diverse: from terry, semi-double to the simplest and sometimes even nondescript.

miniature roses

These are varieties and types of roses, which usually do not exceed 30, less often 35-40 centimeters in height. The flowers are similar to hybrid tea roses but smaller in diameter. These roses are primarily suitable for growing in pots and containers. Among them there are also varieties that, without special care grow in flowers. Most of the miniature roses are remontant.

In the picture: 1. Climber climbing roses, 2. Rambler climbing roses, 3. Miniature roses, 4. Bed roses, 5. Ground cover roses

park roses

(read more,)

The flowers of park roses are the simplest, very often similar to ordinary wild roses or non-catalogue species roses. They can bear fruit in autumn, peculiar berries resembling rose hips. The main disadvantage of park roses is a rare and single flowering. They got their name because they are grown mainly in parks, for the reason that they take up a lot of space, which are few in our dachas.

In the picture: 6. Shrub roses, 7. Hybrid tea roses, 8. Cascading roses, 9. park roses, 10. Standard roses

shrub roses

The main and characteristic sign of shrub roses is a tall bush with a large diameter of diverging stems. In height, quite easily when grown with minimal care, it can reach 2.5-2.7 meters. The most popular varieties among flower growers are representatives of this species "Modern Shrab", "Grandiflora". Most often used to create hedges on homemade, or often mixed (using other plants). Also well suited for creating a flower garden exclusively from roses. Formed rose gardens from shrub roses are very beautiful.

The group of shrub roses includes both many modern varieties of remontant roses, as well as old, so-called "nostalgic" varieties, once blooming, with double flowers.

hybrid tea roses

This type of rose captivates the hearts of gardeners primarily with its large double flowers. The stems grow to a height of up to a meter, erect (upright). One of the best views cut roses. All hybrid tea roses are remontant, and almost all are fragrant. In landscape design and flower garden formation, they are used in combination with herbaceous perennials or.

Hybrid tea roses have large, elegant flowers and upright shoots that reach a height of 1 m, so they look good in the flower garden, and are also great for cutting.

cascading roses

Roses grafted onto a trunk at a height of 140 centimeters with varieties of climbing or ground cover roses. The stems of cascading roses are long, often hanging down. The shapes of the flowers depend on the grafting, therefore they are actually very diverse both in color and in diameter and shape.

standard roses

Like miniature roses, standard roses are well suited for growing in pots and containers, which of course does not negate their cultivation in a flower garden or rose garden, which they will undoubtedly transform. To form and compact the crown of this type of roses, hybrid tea roses, the already mentioned miniature or Floribunda roses, are often grafted onto them.

flower bed roses

As a rule, many gardeners and flower growers refer to flowerbed roses as polyanthus roses and Floribunda roses. Suitable for growing both in portable containers and pots, and in a flower garden in open ground. Flowers are collected in lush and beautiful inflorescences. Flowerbed roses have little to no fragrance (with the exception of a few weakly scented varieties). But their main plus is lush and long flowering. In height, flower bed roses can reach 70-80 centimeters.

Rose seedlings: choose the right one

So, we figured out approximately the types and groups of roses for a garden, flower garden, rose garden, or even a simple flower bed, now let's move on to where it all begins - rose seedlings.

The key to beautiful, luxuriantly blooming, little sick and not requiring daily care roses is, of course, the correct selection of seedlings.

First, pay attention to the shoots and stems. Their color should be green, the stems themselves are strong, resilient, so to speak, "oozing with life." The bark of the shoots should be intact, without folds, breaks and rot.

Buds are another sign of healthy rose seedlings - they must be large, well developed and look healthy, exactly the same recommendations can be given for examining the roots of roses, the roots must be intact, without breaks, and the substrate in which the seedling or earthen lump is sold must be sure to be slightly wet.

The leaves of the seedling should be rich green in color both on the inside and on the outside. We think it would be superfluous to say that there should be no stains or damage on them - if there is, then this is no longer a seedling, but money thrown to the wind.

Rose seedlings in the planting season (early autumn or spring) are most often sold with open roots, in preplant in containers (with a closed root system)

Roses are sold with an open root system, with a closed one, as well as directly in containers.

Planting such seedlings of roses must be done immediately after purchase, this is important.

Most experienced gardeners plant roses in the period from the beginning of September to mid-October. If you live in a cold, northern region, then planting is best done in the spring, in cold winter weak seedlings, with an undeveloped root system, will simply freeze.

In principle, roses can be planted in the summer, in any of the months. Moreover, you can plant them even flowering. True, it will come out a little more expensive for the money, but they will take root well.

As you can see in the right photo, the roots of rose seedlings are in the ground, moss is occasionally used. They can protect the root system of a seedling for several days, such seedlings are usually packed neatly and there is practically no damage to the root system.

What to look for when choosing and buying rose seedlings

• On the label. On quality rose seedlings, a tag is always attached with brief information about the breeder, about the type (group) of roses, and of course with information about the variety.
• Also pay attention to the so-called “ADR” sign (more about it below): such a sign is issued to varieties of roses that are highly resistant to diseases and have high decorative features.
• The most expensive seedlings, the highest category, must have at least three shoots, of which 2 grow from grafting. Cheaper rose seedlings already have 2 shoots, both of which grow from the grafting site.

The best place to plant roses

Whichever variety you choose for planting, remember that regardless of the variety, all roses love soft, loose, fertile soil, with good water permeability. The best level of soil acidity is the so-called pH - 6.5.

Attention: When replacing plantings do not plant roses in the same place where old roses have grown for more than 8-10 years!

Old roses have already "chosen" from the soil all the micro-elements, minerals, etc. they need, and it is not always possible to compensate for this even through the right and generous fertilizer. But they saturated the earth with spores of diseases and pests.

Despite the well-known photophilous nature of roses, it is impossible to keep them under the direct rays of the sun, especially if you live in a warm region in the South, etc. In this position, they bloom quickly, and the flowers look faded, not spectacular - that is, the very meaning of planting roses, beauty, is lost.

Based on the above, for planting roses, choose a place that is slightly shaded, especially at noon, for example, next to a low tree that you subject to annual pruning, etc.

So in my area to the left of the cypress growing next to me, the rose bush is always, despite the constant care, stunted and faded, but on the right, it (the cypress), as if by clock, covers the second bush with itself at noon, which, despite the same planting and variety, is always more powerful and prettier, so it's been tested in practice.

Preparing to plant rose seedlings

Immediately before planting roses, seedlings should first be prepared. So the roots that are too long should be cut a little with a sharp (!) Pruner, and all dry ones removed completely (as a rule, dry roots in roses are recognized even by touch).

In this case, in no case do not touch the filiform roots.

Pruning must also be done on the stems of the seedling - in the spring, leave two to four buds, in the fall, when planting, the seedlings are shortened to 33-35 centimeters.

Tip: A few hours before planting (approximately 2), dip the seedlings in a bucket of water and leave them there for the specified time, or even better, do it in the evening, and plant in the morning, that is, at night.

Planting roses - step by step

If the soil in your country house, plot or flower garden is predominantly clayey, then add river or other sand to the pit under the seedling. If, in turn, you have sandy soil, then add compost to the rose hole in turn.

1. The hole for planting a rose should be 10 centimeters larger than (wider and deeper) than the earth ball and the roots that are in it. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole.
2. The depth at which the rose seedling is planted is determined by the place of grafting, which should be buried 4-5 centimeters into the soil. Mix the soil selected from the planting hole with compost (approximately 1 to 3), and add a handful of real wood ash(not chemistry, not ash from cardboard boxes and other things - only wood!).
3. Hold the rose seedling evenly at the desired depth and gradually fill the hole with earth.
4. Be sure to compact the soil well around the planting.
5. For watering a seedling: make an earthen border around the planting to prevent water from spreading. Be sure to spud the seedling by 15 centimeters, no less - this must be done in spring and autumn. In spring, hilling is useful from drying out, in autumn it helps from frost. On the offensive autumn period, excess land can be removed.

Photo 3: Correct fit roses for beginners

Fastening and supports

Supports and fastenings are needed, first of all, for standard roses - they need to be tied to the supports with a soft cloth or the same twine, making a kind of “eight” out of it. Periodically inspect the plant and loosen the knots to prevent the twine from growing into the tissue of the rose shoot.

rose pruning

The goal of any rose pruning is replacement. That is, it is produced in order to replace the old stems and shoots with young ones that will bloom luxuriantly and profusely. Pruning of old drying shoots is done before the start of healthy, green wood.

Weakened stems are also pruned by significantly shortening them, powerful shoots are either not touched at all or pruned slightly.

Root shoots, the scourge of grafted roses, are completely removed when pruning.

The general rule of pruning is this: the stronger it is, the more strength the rose will need to form new stems.

Pruning of standard (including cascading) roses is determined by their variety and type of scion - so the ground covers then general rule shorten by half the growth every 2 years.

Spring pruning roses

To spring pruning they start mainly at the end of March, in colder regions - at the beginning of April.

But of course, these dates can shift, depending on the climate, the weather in any direction, so in addition to the exact dates, use this sign: you should start pruning roses when the buds swell on the tops of the most powerful shoots, as a rule, a plant blooms at the same time in the flower garden forsythia.

Photo 4: Pruning roses

How to properly cut stems

Believe me, this is important.

The shoots of roses are cut above the bud, from which the shoot will subsequently appear. Such a kidney should be directed outward, to the outside - this is done in order to avoid thickening the bush and giving it a beautiful shape.

In order not to damage the kidney with a pruner, cut the shoot 5-7 millimeters higher. Make the cut oblique and it should be directed down from the kidney, this is done so that moisture from fog and rainwater flows down at the cut point, does not stagnate on it, which can cause it to penetrate into the core and the shoot will rot.

Pruning roses for lush and abundant blooms.

To achieve a beautiful and lush flowering of roses, you must follow a few rules.

1. Climbing roses remontant varieties buds grow both on young shoots and on one-year-old or more shoots, so only lateral shoots are pruned, leaving 4-5 buds. In one-time blooming roses, the flowers are located on the growths of the previous year, so the new stems are not cut, the bush is slightly thinned out, in extreme cases, 2 old skeletal branches can be removed.

2. Miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea roses flower on young stems so they need to be pruned quite heavily. Hybrid tea and Floribunda are pruned a little in the fall, and such pruning is more sanitary in nature: diseased and weak shoots are removed, but in the spring they are pruned more thoroughly - leaving a shoot with three, four buds. Pruning of miniature roses is done in the spring, they are shortened by 12-15 centimeters.

3. In remontant shrub roses, flowers are located on young stems, so the bush is thinned out, while shortening the stems on the outside of the bush to 5 buds.

If the skeletal branches need to be shortened, then do it by a third or even two-thirds of the length.

Once blooming rose shrubs bloom luxuriantly on last year's growth, so pruning should be done immediately after flowering.

We cover roses for the winter

Sheltering roses for the winter is a very important procedure. Otherwise, you can lose all the work that you have invested in your favorites in the summer. Therefore, when autumn comes, stock up on burlap, spruce branches or any other covering material.

You need to cover roses in November-early December (this is the deadline).

Covering methods also depend on the variety and species. So rose hips can not be covered at all.

You can’t use a film for shelter - the plants under it can easily dry up, by the way, the sun can also damage roses in winter - unjustified early sap flow during the thaw may begin, and when new frosts come, they will freeze, as a rule, then it’s already irrevocable - it’s difficult to save such roses, because the tissue of the plant suffers, black rings appear that are clearly visible in the spring on the cut. Therefore, a non-woven material for shelter will be just right.

As a rule, the grafting site suffers from frost the most, in fact, therefore, we recommended above that you bury it when planting a seedling at a depth of 5 centimeters.

Roses in autumn need to be additionally sprinkled with dry earth, better with compost, and cover with spruce branches (if possible). Then cover shrub, miniature roses, floribunda and hybrid tea with non-woven material.

One-year-old standard roses hibernate horizontally, for which gently bend the shoots to the ground and secure with wire pins. Be sure to fill the grafting site with earth or compost, do the same with the crown of the bush.

Old and adult standard roses can successfully overwinter and vertically, you can simply pull a bag over a bush and fill it with dry foliage from below, and tie the bottom, and the garter must necessarily be below the vaccination site. Shoots as well as in previous cases spud and insulate.

Shrub roses, especially those that have grown strongly over the summer, are difficult to cover. In this case, a wire cylindrical cage with a larger diameter than rose bush without a bottom and a lid - it is installed on a bush and carefully stuffed with foliage, hay or straw.

The shelter of climbing roses consists in removing them from a hedge or trellis, laying them on a spruce branch, and warming them with burlap, for example, followed by covering them again with spruce branches. On top of such a "pie" you can put a film ..

It is optimal to transfer the wintering and, of course, only healthy roses, with good immunity to diseases, can grow and delight us with their beauty.

Therefore, even at the stage of buying a flower, ask the seller about the stability of this variety, as a rule, many of them are fanatics of their business and will explain the essence of the issue to you in detail, otherwise use the tips above for choosing rose seedlings.

To minimize the stress of a rose from moving to a new “place of residence”, take the choice of a landing site as seriously as possible, consider not only landscape design and its reception, but try to make sure that your desires and opportunities coincide with “desires and opportunities” roses.

If the variety is resistant to diseases, for example, they took a seedling they liked from friends who do not know either its origin or the name of the variety, do regular spraying with preparations for prevention.

If the prevention did not help and the rose fell ill, then immediately remove the entire affected part of the plant - this will save not only it, but also other nearby bushes. By the way, in fairness, it must be said that most often diseases are spread precisely with cuttings taken from friends and not from the market or shops, so in such cases, do not be lazy to process the seedling immediately.

If removing the diseased parts does not help, resort to chemical or folk remedies to spray the affected rose (we will describe them in detail a little later in the next article).

It is necessary to inspect the roses in the garden as often as possible, at least 1-2 times a week - because the sooner you notice signs of the disease, the easier it is to defeat it, and the rose will suffer less from removing the affected stems. Be sure to burn any plant parts you remove from a diseased plant - don't compost them because next year You will spread the infection with him throughout the site. Before wintering and sheltering roses, remove dried leaves that have not fallen, as well as dried flowers, berries.

Before sheltering roses for the winter, be sure to collect the cut parts of the plants and remove the dried, but not fallen leaves, also tear off the wilted flowers and fruits.

Usage folk remedies and homemade preparations for spraying roses.

In order to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases in roses, spray them with a decoction of horsetail grass every 2 weeks.

Preparation of horsetail solution

To prepare a decoction, take 150 grams of dry grass or one kilogram of raw grass, chop the grass and pour one liter of water, then boil and cook for half an hour over low heat. A decoction for spraying is diluted 1 to 10 before use.

Solution for spraying roses from aphids

Take 30 grams of dry or 400-450 grams of green wormwood (bitter) and pour ten liters of boiling water, then leave for at least 10 minutes. Then strain and dilute 1 to 3. Spray the bush more thoroughly and on both sides of the leaf - if you spray only on top and lightly, then the aphids will simply crawl under the bottom of the leaves, and crawl back as soon as possible or after rain.

The main pests of roses

1. "Rose aphid".

Lives on the tips of the stems, underside of the leaf, buds. Eats juice.

How to fight: Cutting off aphid-infested shoots, spraying with a solution of wormwood (the solution recipe is given above), helps in the fight against rose aphids homemade mash from nettles. If you can't cook folk solutions then treat with any chem. remedy for leaf-eating or sap-sucking pests.

2. "Rose leafhoppers"

Little insects. Favorite place of residence is the lower part of the rose leaf. characteristic feature- small white spots appear on the outer part of the leaves. The period of appearance is June, or the first half of July, as well as August-September.

Control measures: treatment of roses with simple liquid laundry soap.

3. Rose pest - spider mite.

Also inhabits the underside of the leaves. The leaves are covered with yellow spots, then rapidly become gray, white. If there is an intensive reproduction of the spider mite, then thin cobwebs are visible to the naked eye on the back of the leaf.

How to deal: since the tick loves sunny and dry places, then avoid them when planting a rose, if this is not possible due to any circumstances, then remove the leaves affected by the tick, sometimes shoots if the resettlement process has gone too far and then spray with a decoction of horsetail ( solution recipe above) or tobacco. Also effective against spider mites are infusions of yarrow and garlic.

4. "Rozanny leaflet".

Its peculiarity as a pest of roses is that it lays its eggs on the edge of the leaves of a rose, because of which they begin to curl up into a tube, and in early to mid-June, a larva ripens in them.

Control measures: Removal of leaves affected by the pest, spraying with any insecticides.

5. "Sawfly or rotten rose"

The pest lays its eggs right on the pink shoot, the larvae emerging from the eggs drill holes in the shoots and penetrate into their middle, which first causes a slowdown in growth and then the death of the stem. Signs of its presence are holes in the shoots that appear as early as May.

Ways and measures to combat the sawfly: only the removal of the affected shoots. As a preventive measure, regular spraying of the rose with a solution of bitter wormwood (recipe above) can play a good role.

Rose pests - photo

Diseases of roses and measures to combat them

1. Black spotted roses ().

The main sign of black spot is black or purple spots with a characteristic border on the outside of the rose leaf. After the appearance of spots, the leaves turn yellow very quickly, dry and fall off. The provocative effect of the appearance of black spot on roses can be increased humidity.

Measures to combat black spotting: if prolonged rainy weather has set in, then since June, every two weeks, sometimes more often, spray roses with a solution of nettle, horsetail, and one percent Bordeaux liquid.

2. Roses and powdery mildew.

Another scourge garden roses. The provoking factor is the same as black spot- raw and warm weather established for a long period of time. A sign of the disease is clear from the name - a white, easily erased plaque on the leaves.

How to fight: spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid, manure infusion, regularly (every 10 days). To prevent powdery mildew on roses, plant them in a ventilated place, not limited large plants or walls. Frequent thinning of the bush can also be effective.

3. Rose Rust Rose:

Outwardly, it looks like a black spot, but the spots are brown, brown or yellow, and black pustules appear on the inside of the leaves, which contain spores.

Control measures: spraying with a copper-soap solution, Bordeaux liquid (1% Noah). It is necessary to start spraying from the end of April: first, according to the scheme, three times in two days, then every 10-14 days, until the fungus disappears.

4. powdery mildew(false).

A characteristic feature is red-brown spots on the outer side of the leaves, on the back of the leaf is gray or white coating, indelible.

How to fight: treat the bushes with a solution of horsetail (the recipe for preparing the solution is given above), treatments with infusion of nettle, common thistle, ash solution or mullein infusion are also effective. How additional remedy increase potash at the root and avoid dripping water on the leaves when watering.

5. Gray rot roses:

The provoking factor is prolonged rainy weather. A sign of gray rot: gray mold on the ends of the stems, and buds. After the disease, they dry and fall off.

Measures to combat gray rot: increase fertilizing with fertilizers that have manganese in their composition. Prevention: treatment of roses with ordinary Bordeaux liquid (1%)

Photo of rose diseases

50 most beautiful roses from new varieties

I myself am often opposed to talking about flowers, and even more so about roses in terms of the degree of superiority of one variety over another - something like “10 best varieties of roses” or “100 most beautiful roses”, but in this case it is justified - after all, we are talking not only about beauty, but also about endurance and resistance to disease.

It's no secret that most new varieties of roses are bred not only for their "beauty" - breeders develop new varieties that are resistant to diseases, which, unfortunately, our pets suffer more and more.

How to determine how hardy a particular variety of roses is?

The so-called ADR sign (“Allgemeine Deutsche Rosenneuheitenprufung”) will help you with this - in Russian it is translated as “All-German certification of new varieties of roses”.

This list includes only those roses that have increased cold resistance, abundance and duration of flowering, resistance to pests and diseases.

At the end of 2011, this list contained 180 varieties of roses, and in the same year it was updated by only 5 points - the Germans are demanding and scrupulous people.

How do roses get into this catalog list and what does the ADR sign mean?

The ADR mark is awarded to varieties of roses with a high degree of hardiness and the best flowering rates.

Roses eligible for this ADR mark? for three years they are planted in 11 different gardens throughout Germany. In order to test them for endurance in different climatic and weather conditions taking into account soil differences and other factors.

Roses are cared for in the most ordinary way, except for one thing - flower growers are forbidden to treat them from diseases and pests of roses. As a result, what is called “at the exit”, roses are obtained that do not require chemical treatment, moreover, their selection, as we see, occurs in the most natural way.

Gardeners water, feed and prune "experimental" in the same way as in private gardens, but it is strictly forbidden to use any means of plant protection against diseases and pests. Among other things, such a check of roses has a positive effect on environment because the more growers grow hardy varieties, the less chemicals will be needed.

After three years, the results of planting and growing roses applying for the ADR mark, an expert commission is created from rose breeding specialists and evaluated on a 100-point system, in order to enter the group of winners, a rose needs to score 75 points or more.

This whole process was founded by the famous rose breeder Wilhelm Kordes.

What varieties of roses are ADR tested?

The most varied. Roses of all new varieties (except wild roses, which were not tested last year, 2011) are sent for testing from all over the planet, and one of the main conditions for participation in this rose competition is that the variety must be new and not sold on the market for more than 5 years.

Why are roses rated?

Points are accumulated by varieties in a complex way - here are resistance to diseases, growth rate, duration and splendor as characteristics of flowering, general form roses, fragrance. But still, the most important evaluation criterion remains resistance to diseases and pests.

A rose may lose the ADR mark if, as a result of a subsequent cross-check, it is found that it has lost any of its signs.

The most beautiful roses from the ADR catalog: photo

The best varieties roses - PHOTO
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO
The best varieties of roses - PHOTO

50 varieties of the best and most beautiful roses

Description of varieties of roses in the photo

Name (ROSE VARIETY)	Group	flowers	Aroma	Bush
	floribunda	apricot, semi-double, 6 cm
2.Aspirin Rose	floribunda	white to pink, terry, 6 cm		with arched drooping stems, 70 cm high
3.Bengali	floribunda	copper yellow, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity
4.Black Forest Rose	floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 70 cm high
5. Bluhwunder 08	ground cover rose	hot pink, plain, 6 cm	missing	sprawling, densely leafy, 80 cm high
6 Comedy		yellow with red, terry, 8 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 150 cm high
7. Crescendo	floribunda	pink, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 85 cm high
8. Debut	floribunda	light yellow, terry, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 65 cm high
9. Elbflorenz	hybrid tea roses	hot pink, densely doubled, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
10 Gebruder Grimm	floribunda	orange with pink, densely doubled, 7 cm		straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
11.Golden Gate		yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
12.Goldspatz		light yellow, semi-double, 9 cm	missing	with drooping stems, 150 cm high
13. Grande Amore	hybrid tea roses	bright red, terry, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, height 80 cm
14. Heidetraum	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 4 cm	missing	low, sprawling, 75 cm high
15.Hella	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	white, semi-double, 9 cm		with shoots 250 cm long
16.Flashlight		pink, densely doubled, 10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 120 cm high
17. Hermann-Hesse-Rose	floribunda	creamy, densely doubled, 10 cm	medium intensity
18. Eliza	hybrid tea roses	silver-pink, terry, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
19. Intarsia	floribunda	yellow-pink, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
20. Isarperle	floribunda	creamy white, terry, 6 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 75 cm high
21. Jasmina	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	violet-pink, densely doubled, 6 cm	medium intensity	with stems 300 cm long
22. Kir Royal	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	pink, terry, 6 cm		with powerful upright stems 250-300 cm long
23. Space	floribunda	creamy, densely doubled, 8 cm	medium strength	straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
24. La Perla	hybrid tea roses	creamy, densely doubled, 9 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
25. Innocencia	floribunda	pure white, semi-double, 5 cm		compact, branched, 50 cm high
26. Schone Koblenzerin	floribunda	red with cream, densely doubled, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60 cm high
27. Sedana	ground cover rose	creamy orange or apricot, semi-double, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
28. La Rose de Molinard		hot pink, densely doubled, 8 cm
29. Laguna	climbing large-flowered (Climber)	hot pink, densely doubled, 10 cm		stems 250 cm long
30. Larissa		pink, terry, 5 cm	missing	dense, branched, 80 cm high
31. Medley Pink		pink, semi-double, 4 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 40 cm high
32. Mirato	ground cover rose	hot pink, terry, 6-7 cm		sprawling, branched, 50-70 cm high
33. Pastella	floribunda	cream with pink, densely doubled, 6-8 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 60-80 cm high
34. Pink Paradise	hybrid tea roses	hot pink with yellow, terry, 9 cm		compact, densely leafy, 90 cm high
35. Pink Swany		pink, double, 6-7 cm	missing	sprawling with falling shoots 50-60 cm high
36. Planten and Blomen	floribunda	red-white, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70 cm high
37. Pomponella	floribunda	pink, densely doubled, 4 cm		straight, densely leafy, 80 cm high
38. Red Leonardo da Vinci	floribunda	dark red, densely doubled, 7 cm
39. Resonance	floribunda	red, semi-double, 6 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
40. Rouge Meilove	floribunda	dark red, densely doubled, 5 cm		sprawling, branched, 40-60 cm high
41. Schloss Ippenburg	hybrid tea roses	salmon pink, terry, 8-10 cm		straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
42. Schneeflocke	ground cover rose	white, semi-double, 6 cm		strictly straight, densely leafy, 40-50 cm high
43 Shining Light		yellow, terry, 10 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 130 cm high
44. Sinea	floribunda	burgundy, loose, terry, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 70-90 cm high
45. Solero	floribunda	light yellow, densely doubled, 6 cm		sprawling, branched, 70 cm high
46. ​​Sorrento	ground cover rose	red, loose, terry, 5 cm	missing	low, densely leafy, 70-80 cm high
47. Souvenir de Baden-Baden	hybrid tea roses	creamy pink, densely doubled, 10 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 100 cm high
48. Stadt Rom	ground cover rose	salmon pink, simple, 6-7 cm		compact, well branched, 50-60 cm high
49. Westzeit	floribunda	orange, semi-double, 6 cm	missing	straight, densely leafy, 60-70 cm high
50. Yellow Meilove		light yellow, densely double, 5 cm	medium intensity	straight, densely leafy, 40-60 cm high

Breeders and breeders of these roses: Kordes' Sonne, Noack, Meilland, Delbard

Deciphering the symbols in the description of varieties of roses in the photo

1. Climbing roses: for planting near a support or walls that need to be decorated.
2. Flower bed roses: for planting in low and mixed flower beds.
3. Shrub roses: for hedges and planting with other shrubs.: You have repeatedly requested such requests ...: Table of drugs to combat ...