The final step in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always grouting. After carrying out this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Grouting tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" his hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing works depends on the chosen material. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a fast-curing material can ruin the whole look of even a well-placed tile.

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of walls and floors from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with open seams will not linger for a long time on walls and floors, and on the surfaces under it will be created favorable environment for the development of mold and fungus, which sooner or later will hit the base.

To make it easy to work with the material, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in ready-made, should have the following properties:

• The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable that the mixture has hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles, which will prevent the grout from penetrating to the entire depth of the seam, leaving air voids.
• The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, as it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow you to work quickly.
• Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning it should not be washed out.
• Hydrophobicity of the material after curing. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
• Resistance to household chemical detergents, as any tile flooring requires periodic cleaning.
• aesthetic appearance. The joints between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile as much as possible.

Types of grouts according to the material of manufacture

Today, one- and two-component grouts can be found on sale, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are made on various basic bases:

• Cement.
• Polymer-cement.
• Cement-sand.
• Polyurethane.
• Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
• Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium " liquid glass» and other materials.

However, independent production material may not be of very high quality, and the filler will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature fluctuations. Grouts produced in the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to purchase ready-made materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And making grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.

Cement based joint fillers

Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. They are produced by most well-known companies for the manufacture of building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.

A mixture containing sand is used for sealing wide seams, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using water room temperature, or latex based. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic pails.

Cement grouts can have different colour. Some manufacturers make formulations already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone grouts

Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints with a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler for particularly difficult areas

Such a joint filler is most often used in combination with other grout compositions. Basically, they close gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the junctions of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its disadvantage can only be called what is produced silicone sealant in a poor variety of shades - mainly white or transparent compositions prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the right cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the aggregate will flow into the seams in an even strip.

Resin grouts

• Epoxy grout

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - epoxy composition and hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is different high strength and resistance to external mechanical influences, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations.

Epoxy grout has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original form for 45-50 years.

After connecting the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tiles. It fills the cavities well and, when hardened, acquires high density close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the cladding of walls and floors where epoxy filler was used to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose ceramic tiles High Quality with perfect smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy filler, which includes in its composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a reinforcer. Working with such material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

One of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, traditionally or using Portland cement, if desired. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price of this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes to work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory facilities, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

• Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material, when hardened, acquires the highest qualities of resistance to any influences, whether detergents, acids, ultra-violet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

When choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.

The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color diversity, since it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used to improve tile laying at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws along the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.

• Polyurethane grouts

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic composition made on the basis of polyurethane resins and water dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting 1-6 mm wide joints between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After the final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of joint filler has a rich color scheme pastel shades, which allows you to choose it for any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know a few recipes for making grout at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult to make a filler for joints.

• Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simple recipe for making aggregate is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed in a dry form, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

For cooking cement-sand grout you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that bought at a hardware store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, a classic grout will be obtained, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

• Gypsum grout

Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary, because without it, the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of the grout, before preparing the next, the container and spatula should be cleaned well each time, as small and large hardened gypsum particles will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not plastic enough, therefore, under mechanical action, it can crumble. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

• alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so before its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But temporarily it can be used if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

• clay grout

No need to write off such material as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing work, as it has good hydrophobic qualities. The preparation of joint filler from this material will create a little more trouble than when mixing it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various hard inclusions from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to make the grout harden faster. Lime and cement are poured quite a bit. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role in it all the same clay is given.

For manufacturing, you can use material of any color, if desired, color and metallic powder are added to it.

Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout.

How much grouting material is required?

So for quality finishes it is best to use special compositions of industrial production. But how many do you need to buy?

Usually on the package grout composition the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter of tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the seams.

Probably, everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed as follows:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:

Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles chosen for laying (mm);

h– tile thickness (mm);

d- the planned width of the gap between the tiles - the thickness of the seam (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density mortar mix material. It will not be a big mistake to accept its value of approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most grout mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only need to be multiplied by the area of ​​​​the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, “throw” another 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1×Ry × S

S- the area of ​​the surface to be tiled.

Rsum- the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below. calculation, which contains all the above ratios, including the 10% reserve.

Calculator for calculating the required amount of grout for tile joints

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Home » Walls

Do-it-yourself tile grouting

The process of finishing the walls of the bathroom with ceramic tiles from several stages. When you have laid the tiles, guided by our step by step instructions, this does not mean that the wall decoration is completed. The final stage remains - grouting the tile joints.

Unfortunate masters consider this operation to be unpretentious. But it would seem that the simplest manipulations performed illiterately can ruin all your previous work.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Before starting work, we learn about the purpose of the gaps between the tiles and why they are overwritten:

1. Ceramic tiles, even super-quality ones, from a trusted manufacturer, have at least the slightest, but errors in physical dimensions. If the difference in the height of the tiles is a few microns, then laying five or six rows close to each other, you will see a curved line along the upper edge of the material. This means that the gaps are for alignment.
2. Ceramics, like other building materials, changes physical dimensions from heating and cooling. This issue is especially relevant for the bathroom and kitchen walls in the area. hob, the so-called kitchen apron.
3. Grouting tiles prevents moisture and dirt from entering the surface of the finish.
4. The composition of the grout includes an antifungal agent that prevents the development of mold and fungi in the bathroom.
5. This enhances the beauty of ceramic tiles.

Grout for tiles - which one to choose

Tile grout has two classes:

1. For narrow joints up to 5 mm.
2. For wide joints over 5 mm.

In the first case, the composition of the mixture includes cement and additives that improve the properties of the finished mixture. Such a grout changes size during drying, that is, it shrinks, and this is a prerequisite for cracking. Therefore, this material is suitable only for narrow seams.

The second type of mixtures also contains fine sand in its composition.

Silicone grout or epoxy grout for joints is applied to sections of the wall that are planned for frequent contact with water, although ordinary grout is sufficient.

In our opinion, the best materials of this type are ceresite grout and satin grout. But other manufacturers are not far behind in terms of the quality of building materials.

Grouting tools and materials

The work will require a minimum of building materials and tools for application. you will need:

1. Grout for seams.
2. Mixture container.
3. Container for clean water.
4. Drill with mixer attachment.
5. Rubber spatula.
6. Narrow, metal spatula.
7. Protective gloves.

Step 1, preparing the seams for grouting

If during the tile works you have not prepared the tile gaps for subsequent grouting, it's time to make this mistake.

We recommend cleaning the space between the tiles so that there is no hardened tile adhesive left. This should be done with something sharp, but in no case metal. The fact is that the metal during friction against ceramics remains on it in the form of the thinnest (at the molecular level) plaque. Subsequently, it is difficult to eliminate it, especially since before applying the grout, the plaque is almost invisible.

Use for this purpose a plastic wedge, for example, or a cross that was used to create seams.

Step 2, how to grout the seams on the tile

Before starting the grouting process, go along the seam line with a damp sponge so that the ceramics absorb less moisture from the grout mixture. Be sure to read the information on the package. Everything is important here - the proportions for preparing the mixture, the hardening time.

Preparation of grout mixture

How to prepare grout for tiles?

On the packaging of the dry mix you will find all the information about the preparation of the material.

Pour the prescribed amount of cool water into a clean container. Turn on the mixer and gradually fill in the required volume of the free-flowing fraction.

Grouting tiles

Hook a small amount of mortar with a steel spatula. Press the edge of the rubber spatula against the plane of the steel one and remove the solution from it.

Press the grout tool against the tile and, using light pressure, draw it at a 45° angle to the seam line. Make the next movement almost parallel to this line. With this movement, you will deepen the grout even further into the gap and remove excess material from the tile.

Now give it time to grout mixture grabbed. This time is different for each manufacturer, so once again I ask you to read the information on the package. This period is necessary so that during the subsequent processing of the seams with a damp sponge, the solution does not stretch behind it, but you cannot overdry it either - you risk leaving ugly seams forever.

So wet your sponge warm water and wash off excess from the tile in a circular motion. Pay attention - the movements are circular so as not to wash out the excess from the seams. That's probably all, but this perfect option and it happens infrequently.

We think that unplanned flaws will definitely come out in you, in the form of dimples, holes or uneven filling of the space of the seams. It's not scary.

Repeat the procedure again, from the beginning to washing with a sponge.

After a few hours, wipe the walls with a dry rag, as there is plaque left on them.

Grouting tiles, or rather, preparing the mixture, is a dusty process, so use a gauze bandage or respirator.

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Tile is often used as a finishing decorative coating not only for the floor, but also for walls, countertops, other surfaces, for facade work. It is one of the most practical and durable materials. A variety of textures, a rich palette of shades, the ability to combine and create various effects enable designers to create beautiful and stylish compositions, stunning the imagination.

What is the grout for?

An important component of laying decorative tiles is the grouting of tile joints.

The grout performs the following functions:

• Fills the seams between tiles, masks bumps, chips and other minor defects.
• It acts as a waterproofing agent, preventing the penetration of water and moisture under the tiles and the destruction of the floor and walls.
• Prevents the growth of bacteria, the formation of mold, fungus.
• Bonds the entire surface, gives a complete and neat look.
• It can act as a decorative element, making a bright contrast to the tile, emphasizing its geometry.

Grouts are sold as a dry mix for dilution with water or in hermetically sealed containers. closed banks in the form of a thick paste.

Training

The tile is laid, aged for 7 days - the time after laying, during which the tile adhesive dries completely, now you can start grouting.

For this you need:

• Remove fixing crosses.
• Clean the edges and seams of debris, dirt, dust, tile adhesive residues with a spatula or screwdriver.
• Vacuum and damp mop.
• Dry the surface.
• On porous clinker tiles must be glued along the edges masking tape. Grout does not rub off porous tiles well.

An important milestone preparation is the correct choice of grout and calculation of material consumption

Composition selection

Grouts differ in their composition and characteristics, features of use.

When choosing, consider the following parameters:

• Width of tile gaps.
• Humidity level and room temperature.
• The presence of chemically aggressive environments, detergents.
• High permeability, various mechanical loads.
• UV exposure.
• The texture and color of the tiles.

Grout mixtures are divided into several types.

• cement grout has two subspecies: sand-cement and Portland cement. Sand-cement consists of fine sand and cement, of all types it is the most affordable, used for joints with a width of more than 5 mm. Grainy abrasive structure scratches smooth surfaces, therefore not compatible with glazed tiles. The cement-sand mixture gradually crumbles, can absorb moisture, crack. If it is necessary to remove from the joints, these properties will help to easily clean the gaps between the tiles. You can reduce the shedding of tiles by treating the dried seams with hydrophobic impregnations.

The second subspecies contains cement, various plasticizing, polymeric and drying-retarding additives. This grout is used to fill narrower joints, 3-5 mm wide. You can enhance the waterproofing properties by diluting the powder not with water, but with liquid latex. The properties of the mixture allow it to be used on glazed types of tiles, the plasticizers in the composition make filling the joints easier and better. Cement grouts are recommended for use in dry rooms.

This type of paste is not used in conditions of exposure to aggressive chemicals, constant exposure to water, for example, in acid production, in swimming pools. The finished mixture sets quickly, so it must be used within 2 hours after dilution.

• Grout based on furan or epoxy resin. Furan resin, which is the basis, is mixed with a special hardener and is mainly used in industrial premises with heavy loads and difficult operating conditions.

Epoxy resin and hardener can be combined with sand, coloring pigment, Portland cement.

The cost of such a mixture is higher, but the advantages are obvious:

• Absolute resistance to moisture and water, ultraviolet, easy to clean, does not absorb dirt, does not fade.
• Neutrality to chemical and temperature effects, used in baths, pools, bathrooms.
• Resistance to abrasion and other mechanical stress.
• High decorative. Glitter, silver and gold powder and sand, mother-of-pearl, luminescent compositions are added to the mixture, which makes it possible to achieve various visual effects.

Epoxy grout mixed immediately before work in small portions, its setting time is from 5 to 20 minutes. This is a viscous material, its application requires quick work and skills.

• Polyurethane or polymer. Sold in finished form and is an aqueous dispersion of polymer resins, to which pigments are added. This mixture is easy to apply with a special syringe and tolerates extreme temperature changes, such as the on/off of an underfloor heating system, where tiles are often used as a top coat due to their heat transfer properties.

• Silicone sealants used for joints between kitchen sink and countertop tiles, laminate and floor tiles. For aquariums and bathtubs.
• Special grouts with specific properties, for example, heat-resistant mixtures of fireclay clay and cement for the manufacture of furnaces.

How to calculate quantity?

The composition is selected, you can go to the store, buy the mixture and grout the seams on the tile. There is a special formula by which the consumption of the grout mixture is calculated in kilograms per 1 m2.

Consumption (kg / m2) \u003d (A + B) / (A + B) x H x D x Coefficient. x 10%

In this formula:

• A is the length of the tile, mm.
• B - width, mm.
• H is the thickness, mm.
• D – joint width, mm.
• Coef. - coefficient of density of the grout mixture. Equal to 1.5-1.8.

Preparing the mixture

To dilute the solution from a dry powder, you need a small clean container and a drill with a mixer nozzle. Mixtures are diluted with water or liquid latex strictly according to the instructions on the packaging of a specific grout. Usually take about 200-300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry ingredients. Water is added little by little, mixed, then another portion is added, so the whole mixture is gradually prepared. By consistency, it should resemble sour cream. If you pour more water than the norm, a too liquid mixture will crack, and a very thick one will not fill the entire seam, and voids will remain.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Epoxy and polymer can be mixed with colored pigment or various decorative additives according to the intent of the customer or designer.

It is better to dilute the first batch in a small amount in order to check the consumption, the quality of the mixture, the setting speed. If a ready-made grout is purchased, you need to set aside part of the finished paste in another smaller container, tightly closing the lid of the factory jar. It is impossible to store the finished solution for a long time, as it is covered with a film and loses its properties. Then you can't use it anymore. It is recommended to dilute the portion so as to wipe 1.5 m2.

Before rubbing, the seams are moistened by wiping with a wet sponge; it is not necessary to treat the surface with a primer.

Process details

Moisture, which is applied to the gaps between the seams, provides better adhesion when applying the mixture. For glazed types of tiles, this procedure is optional.

In rooms of constant use (in the toilet, bathroom, in the kitchen), you can start grouting the seams 1 day after laying the tiles, so as not to torment the residents for a whole week. In other rooms, you must wait 7 days, and only then do the grout. Before the main work, it is necessary to treat the gaps with an antifungal compound. After processing, the composition dries up within a day.

The epoxy mixture is chemically aggressive, in order to work with it, protective equipment is needed. Epoxy putty must be sealed very quickly and deftly, otherwise it will harden and become unusable.

To apply polymer pastes, you need a syringe, which you can do yourself. To do this, you need to take a tight plastic bag and cut off its corner so that you get a small hole for the polymer to exit. Then put a little mixture and squeeze out, filling tile joints.

What will be needed?

For work, you should prepare the following tool:

• A clean small container in which a portion of the solution is mixed can be used in a tray.
• Drill with mixing attachment for thorough mixing of ingredients.
• A basin of warm clean water to wet the seams before work.
• A rubber spatula that fills the gaps, or a trowel.
• Large hard sponge, paint brush for wetting and sweeping debris and dust.
• Clean cloth, preferably soft.
• Personal chemical protection equipment: respirator, goggles and rubber gloves.
• A piece of electrical cable with a diameter slightly less than the width of the seam or a special shaper to give the seams a beautiful shape.
• For polyurethane formulations included special remedy for cleaning tiles and sponge.

Application guide

To correctly joint the floor and walls, you need to know the basic rules.

They also fit cement mixtures and for polyurethane:

• The movements during rubbing do not go along the edge of the tile, but across, perpendicular to the seam, first a horizontal strip is made on the wall, and then a vertical one.
• Dilute or collect ready-made pasta in small portions, covering an area of ​​​​approximately 1.5 m2.
• Apply a lump of the mixture to the gap area and push more paste into the seam to fill all the voids and cover the corners as much as possible. When the entire gap is filled, the spatula will begin to meet a certain resistance.
• Do not forget to wet the edges, keep the grout at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the tile.
• Run along the seam 3-4 times, carefully rubbing the grout, then the mixture will fill the entire gap.
• Excess solution must be removed immediately with a spatula.

After 5-15 minutes, the seams will dry out a little, but will not harden completely, then you can level the seams with a hard sponge, evenly pressing on it so that the grout layer is 0.2 - 0.3 mm lower than the general level of the tile. The sponge should not be heavily moistened so that dark spots do not appear on the surface of the seams. Against the background of a lighter main tone, they look messy and can ruin the whole look of the finished tile. It is necessary to rinse the sponge after each formed seam. You can give the seam a neat look with a shaper or a piece of cable.

With a special sponge, you need to wash off the stains, the remnants of the solution from the tile, after hardening it will be much more difficult to do. Special detergents used to remove excess polyurethane grout. After a day, the surface will completely dry and harden. You can wash the tiles clean with any detergent.

Epoxy paste is more difficult to rub in, as it is more viscous and quickly hardens. If you do not have time to remove the remnants, you will have to cut them off with a knife. It is recommended to entrust the application of such pastes to experienced professionals. If you decide to apply yourself, you can first practice on small plot, test the mixture for setting time and prepare all cleaning aids at once.

After laying tiles on the floor or walls, work on the installation of high-quality cladding does not end. First of all, it is necessary to grout the joints using special mixtures. High-quality performance of this stage of work allows you to give the surface the desired aesthetics. Incorrectly worn seams, on the contrary, will spoil the appearance of the tile, even if it is laid perfectly.

How to choose the right grout?

Grout mixtures are designed to protect the adhesive composition and the tile itself from the negative effects of the external environment. Moisture can penetrate under the tile, which can destroy the coating.

With the help of grout, a sealed surface is formed, which is resistant to various negative influences.

Therefore, the joints on the tiles must be filled with a mixture that meets the following requirements:

• homogeneity. The made or ready solution should not include any foreign elements, including air bubbles. This will achieve the most even surface that does not contain any defects;
• elasticity. The solution should fit well into the seam easily, without additional effort;
• high strength. High-quality seams are not erased and resistant to mechanical damage;
• hydrophobicity or the ability to repel moisture.

Types of grouts

To fill the joints of tiles on the floor or walls, the following types of mixtures can be used:

• based on epoxy resin. It also contains in its composition special hardeners, which provide greater strength and resistance to various aggressive substances of the tile joint;
• based on cement. It is sold as a dry powder, which is usually diluted with water before use. There are also ready-made mixtures, but they are much more expensive. The seams on the tile formed with the help of this composition will be strong and wear-resistant.

What tools are needed to carry out the work?

To qualitatively fill each seam between the tiles, you need to prepare the following tools:

• a set of rubber spatulas that will be needed when working with ceramic tiles when filling joints;
• containers for preparing a solution, if a dry mix was purchased;
• trowel;
• construction knife, which will be needed to remove the remaining tile adhesive in the seams;
• paint brush for cleaning from dust and dirt;
• a rag or sponge for finishing surface preparation;
• personal protective equipment for working with aggressive mixtures (if necessary) - goggles, a respirator, rubber gloves.

Preparatory stage of work

How to properly fill the joints between individual tiles? First of all, you need to choose optimal time to complete all work. If you are grouting them for the first time, you may not know that you can start the task only after the tile adhesive has completely dried. This can take from 8 to 48 hours, which is influenced by many factors.

When the coating is completely dry, it is necessary to start cleaning the grooves on the surface from adhesive residue. It is necessary to achieve smooth seams, otherwise the quality of the grout will be low. To do this, first use a construction knife, which allows you to get rid of large pieces solution. To remove dust and small fragments, it is recommended to use a paint brush, and for final cleaning - a sponge moistened with water.

How to prepare grout?

When the surface is ready for further processing, you can start preparing the grout. If the finished mixture in buckets is used, this stage of work is missed. Otherwise, in suitable capacity pour water at room temperature, where the powder from the pack is poured. In this case, the proportions specified by the manufacturer should be used.

The connection of the components of the solution is best done using a drill with a special nozzle in the form of a mixer. If this is not available, you can use an ordinary wooden stick. In any case, the solution should be homogeneous, free of lumps or other foreign matter.

During operation, a small portion of the grout should be prepared. It hardens quickly, making it difficult to apply. Therefore, it is better to prepare a fresh portion each time from a small amount of powder.

How to prepare grout for joints between tiles

How do professional craftsmen grout tile joints? To make this process as easy as possible, it is recommended to pre-moisten the surface with plain water. It will increase its adhesion, which will also improve the quality of the hardened mixture. Water is usually applied with a paint brush, and over a large area with a spray gun.

Also, many experts prefer to use a primer deep penetration. It will prevent the formation of fungus on the surface, which very often happens in rooms with high humidity.

The grout laying technology is as follows:

• spatula movements - perpendicular to the joints, which will ensure their high-quality filling;
• grout is applied as quickly as possible, but carefully;
• they try to push the mixture inward;
• after filling the groove, it is recommended to walk with the sharp end of the spatula over the surface, and then once again make stroke-like movements to better fill the entire space;
• on the floor, you can use a special grout. It is held at an angle of 30 degrees and moves diagonally, which leads to an even distribution of the solution.

How to use a trowel bag?

When working with hard-to-reach surfaces, it is recommended to use a special trowel bag. It has a very simple design and resembles a tool for decorating cakes with cream. At the end of the bag, a tip is fixed, which has the same diameter as the size of the joint between the tiles.

During operation, it is necessary to place the tube in the seam and sequentially fill it with a solution. It is best to close the groove along its entire length, and not work with a separate zone. This will ensure that an even layer is obtained without voids and defects.

First, they usually fill all the vertical joints, after which they work with the horizontal ones. Each time it is recommended to release a little more mixture than necessary. After the mortar has set, it must be carefully compacted with a metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the distance between the tiles. When the mixture has hardened (after about 30 minutes), all residues are removed with a stiff brush.

Surface cleaning

When the grout dries well, all excess must be removed with a grater. It should be held at right angles to the surface and gently moved diagonally. Otherwise, you can spoil some kind of seam by removing part of the grout from it.

Wet cleaning of the surface begins a little later, after the final setting of the mixture. But you don’t have to wait too long, as it will be difficult to remove the grout residues. This should be done with a damp sponge. You can also use a special abrasive grater that does not leave scratches. To achieve a high surface quality, cleaning with water should be carried out several times. In some cases, it can be very difficult to completely get rid of divorces.

Is a sealant necessary?

In rooms that are constantly exposed to the negative effects of moisture, it is recommended to cover the tile joints with a transparent sealant. This will prevent the absorption of water, which quickly destroys the decorative surface.

To perform this operation, it is recommended to use a small brush for the width of the seam. If the sealant will be applied to the tiles, you can take a simple roller. This will speed up the process of work, will allow you to get the thinnest and most even layer.

Video: Grouting tiles

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then ceramic coating may simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab. However, if the joints are left unfilled, then over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. That's why home master it is recommended to pay attention to an intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living areas of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, cement-epoxy fugue is considered for the home universal option, since you can rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with it in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there optimal width seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be used on flooring, the width of the joints of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, choosing desired composition pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in large assortment However, you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. Usually, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparing the base, diluting the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. To achieve the latter is not quite a skillful master, who carries out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, it is quite difficult the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam rubber sponge and clean rags, a bucket for water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything thoroughly. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water again immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply to rubber spatula puffer and diagonal movements begin to fill the seams. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to clean it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.