Entrance to the garage of which is better. Walkway to the gate. Arrangement options: from tiles to lawn. Why a wooden ramp is not the best option

For everyone who has own house and / or cottage necessarily faces such an issue of paramount importance as the arrangement of the entrance to the gate and garage. The soil in front of the gate sooner or later, depending on how often you use vehicles, rolls away, the ruts break. On the one hand, it is inconvenient, since the primer will have holes and bumps of various depths. And the view is not very attractive, especially after the rain, when the ground turns to mud. So any owner will definitely organize driveways to the garage and gate.

The simplest solution that comes to mind is backfilling the road with fine gravel. This is the most cheap option and require the least cost. physical labor- leveled the rubble with a shovel and you're done. After that, you can sprinkle crushed stone with sand so that it shrinks as little as possible over time. Filling the race with rubble seems to solve the problem of dirty roads, but still the impression of disorder remains. And if even through the stones and grass sprouts, then the appearance of unkemptness only intensifies. Therefore, crushed stone filling is most often used either when there are no funds at all for something more, or as a preparatory stage.

If possible, the owners roll up the drive to the garage with asphalt. Now this is completely changing the look! Everything is smooth, clean and tidy. But asphalt for rolling tracks is not so easy to find. Yes, and rolled evenly, without pits and roughness. Most often, this process is done manually or using a vibropress. In addition, laying asphalt is not a cheap pleasure. It happens that asphalt is not of high quality, from which the bitumen is washed out after two or three years and only rubble remains.

Much more common is the laying of concrete tiles or natural stone. And although the cost of this event is also not small, but the result is worth it. The site, lined with concrete tiles or stone, looks very neat. In addition, it is also strong and durable.

Those who do not want to shackle their plot in cold stone and more tends to natural materials, sows his yard with grass and grows a lawn. And do not think that the grass cover is created only for admiring and leisurely walking. Now a lawn that can support the weight of a car can even be arranged in front of the garage. This is done with the help of a lawn grate device, which is installed at the entrance to the garage or in the yard, soil and nutrient mixture are poured into the cells and sown with grass seeds. The grown lawn grass with its roots strengthens the soil in the lattice cells, and the lawn becomes strong and resistant to stress. With all the external attractiveness and aesthetics, it also has its drawbacks. First, the device lawn grate takes quite a long time (until the grass grows and takes root). And secondly, such a coating needs care, watering, cutting, garbage collection. Not everyone wants to have such troubles.

Alternatively, lovers of natural "living" materials arrange a boardwalk, tightly fitting boards one to another. But you need to tinker with the tree so that such a flooring lasts as long as possible. The boards are treated with waterproof impregnations against rot and mold (whatever one may say, but the boards will be subjected to precipitation in the form of rain and snow). It also requires treatment from bugs, woodworms and other insects that spoil the tree. But still, even when all measures are taken, the tree is a rather short-lived material (10-12 years) and is easily worn out. As a result, far from everyone decides to lay a board in the yard or in front of the gate as a street covering.

Puddles, mud, ice formed in front of the garage create a lot of difficulties for entry. The icy threshold on which the car's tires slip creates the risk of an emergency situation and increases the load on the car's suspension.

The water accumulated at the threshold tends to penetrate into the garage. Difficulties, especially at dusk, driving the car through the garage door, constantly risking hitting some obstacle with the body. All this emphasizes the importance of organizing the entry device.

This type of device can be:

ramp;
blind area;
coupler.

A ramp is called an inclined flat platform for the passage of cars and other means to different height levels.

How to make an entrance to the garage with your own hands from concrete? What else can you make an entrance to a private house from? Let's talk in more detail step-by-step instruction for your attention.

Ramp

The ramp itself is a fairly simple structure. The main purpose of its creation– organize a convenient check-in to the garage. The flatter the ramp, the more convenient it is to use.

Type of ramp depends on the location of the access roads to the garage - it can be a direct entrance or an entrance with a turn. The ramp can be made up or down (if it leads, for example, to the basement garage).

For a ramp with a rise, curbs are installed to avoid a car moving out; for ramps with a descent, walls play the role of these limiters.

The width of the ramp is usually 30 centimeters greater than the width garage doors, at the far end the ramp widens slightly to make entry easier. Its most optimal length is 5 meters, but it can be different depending on the wishes of the owner.

Also in the ramp is provided surface slope and drainage system, and in front of its threshold, a water drainage groove is installed, covered with a grate, so that atmospheric precipitation flows down to the edges and is removed from the device.

Together with the ramp from the side of the garage floor, the exit from the threshold of the garage door, the so-called counter ramp, is often used, it makes the entrance soft and reduces the load on the car suspension.

Optionally, above the ramp set canopy which saves him from heavy rains or snowfall.

The options from which the ramp is made can be completely different - this is wood, and metal, and concrete. Them advantages and disadvantages:

Wood: a simple and easy to manufacture, but short-lived ramp, it has to be changed every 2-3 years.
Metal: strong and reliable, but with negative temperatures the air becomes very slippery.
Concrete: most best option in terms of price-quality ratio. A concrete ramp can be used for many years if all the rules specified in the relevant SNiP are observed at the construction stage.

Arrangement of a ramp for entering the garage.

blind area

Blind area - a strip of concrete or asphalt with a slope from the building to drain water.

The best option for a blind area for a garage- creation of an inclined floor with a slope of 15-20 degrees (or 20-30 mm per 1 m of length). The width of the blind area can be made from 1 m to a value that seems optimal to the car owner. Often the blind area occupies the entire area in front of the house and is tiled, which looks very interesting.

Screed

Screed - a cement-sand or asphalt concrete layer for leveling and stiffening the surface. In the variant with a garage, this is a flat concreted area, used when the soil layer is not sufficiently rigid.

Even in case if the level of the garage floor is the same as the level of the driveway, you can raise the threshold, which will protect the garage from precipitation. Best Level threshold rise: 20 cm. A ramp slope of 25 degrees is optimal in this case.

Pros and cons of different options

Ramp slope standards

What should be the slope of the entrance to the underground garage? By current SNiP 21-02-99 p. 5.28 "car parking" the longitudinal slope of open ramps (street) should be no more than 10%. Those. with a height difference of 10 cm, the lower part of the ramp should have a length of 1 m (1:10, 10%).

These requirements are related to the safety and convenience of entering and exiting the garage ramp; the slope also creates a proper outflow of water and reduces the risk of icing on the ramp.

An example of the manufacture of a screed

First, I need to say a few words about heaving soils , since construction on this type of soil is very common in our country.

Everyone is called puffy clay soils(these include: clays, loams and sandy loams) with high level ground water. Clay in heaving soils retains moisture well, and when the soil freezes, it expands in all directions, which can lead to the rise of buildings located on it.

For shallow construction works the fight against heaving of soils consists in removing part of the soil under the building and replacing it with materials that do not retain moisture. Additionally, measures are taken to prevent freezing of the soil next to the building; for this, the soil is insulated, for example, with polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene as a heater shifts the temperature isotherm closer to the surface, i.e. does not allow the soil to freeze, which does not lead to its rise.

How to fill the entrance to the garage? How to concrete correctly? Stages of work on the arrangement and concreting of the screed:

Remove the soil to a depth of about 40 cm according to the size of the future screed.
Lay the first layer of sand ( sand cushion), tamp tightly, spill with water.
Lay a second layer of sand, compact, spill with water.
Lay a layer of fine-grained gravel up to the top of the dug pit.
If the screed is not organized for the entire length of the car, the remaining distance can be covered with a layer of gravel, having previously removed the vegetation at the place of filling and laying geotextiles (so that the gravel does not sink into the ground).
Separate the future screed and foundation using a strip of linochrome in case you do not plan to tie the screed to the garage foundation. Leave a gap of approximately 3 cm between the screed and the gate frame.
Make formwork of their boards on three sides. The formwork can be made from a board with a thickness of 25 mm. Carefully fix the formwork (you can sprinkle it with crushed stone with outside over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe boards), bringing it level exactly horizontally. The boards can be lubricated with special formwork oil to make it easier to separate them from the concrete later without damaging the screed. For these purposes, Hormusend HLV-37 grease is well suited.
Put a heater on a pillow of gravel over the entire area (plates of extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick).
Tie the frame from the reinforcement for pouring the mortar with gravel.
To prepare the solution, you can add "Fairy" as a plasticizer.
Pour the main concrete layer using a vibratory compactor.
After laying the main concrete layer, put a mesh with a cell of 50x50 mm (reinforcing) on it.
Mix the solution without adding crushed stone this time (only plasticizer, cement, sand), pour the finishing screed.
Align the finish screed using a board for this.
Iron the screed after the appearance of sufficient moisture on the surface of the screed.
Immediately cover the resulting screed to protect it from birds and animals during drying.

Concrete screed will gain hollow strength in about 15 days. The screed must be watered for 5 to 7 days to keep it constantly moist. Also, the screed can be covered with a film, and if sufficient moisture content of the screed is maintained, it can not be watered.

In the future, near the screed, you need to do drainage to keep the ground dry underneath.

Dimensions and materials for manufacturing:

cement brand M400;
sand, layer thickness: 15 cm each;
crushed stone, layer thickness: 10 cm;
concrete, layer thickness: 15 cm;
proportions of the solution for the main concreting: sand - 3, cement - 1, crushed stone - 5;
the proportions of the solution for the finishing screed: sand - 4, cement - 1.

"Fairy" in the role of a plasticizer makes the solution more elastic (due to the addition of glycerin). Ratio: 1/3 cup of plasticizer per 1/4 cubic meter of solution.

Ironing increases protective properties concrete and increase it waterproofing characteristics. Technology - dry cement is poured onto the screed (wet).

And here is a video on how to make a blind area for a garage.

The garage entrance device creates a convenient and highly visible area and allows the car owner to confidently and accurately guide his car. Water accumulating at the threshold also does not penetrate into the garage if a properly made entry device is installed in front of it.

The effort spent on arranging the garage is more than paid off convenience and good mood car owner from easy and safe operation.

On the suburban area there will always be areas that experience increased stress during operation. First of all, this is a platform near the garage and an access road to it. Their arrangement must be taken with all responsibility, because the result of the work will be safe movement around the site and convenient car parking. How to make a reliable and durable driveway and equip the entrance to the garage? About everything in order.

General rules

Paving conventional garden paths and paving the road for the passage of the car, of course, have some differences. Pay attention to the basic rules for paving territories with increased load before designing your site:

Choose areas with solid ground for the track and the area in front of the garage.
The track must be well drained to avoid subsidence during operation.
Choose a short access road, avoiding significant differences in height.
Make sure that the steepness of the road does not exceed 12% (12 meters of elevation per 100 meters of track).
If a strong slope cannot be avoided, level out the steepness of the path using bends and turns.
On the site in front of the garage, the turning radius must be at least 4.5 meters.
The parking lot must be almost horizontal, with a slope of no more than 4%.
For drain surface water observe a minimum slope of the access road of about 2%.

Soil preparation and road construction

most responsible and milestone when paving areas with increased load - this is the preparation of the foundation for the future road. Even the most best coverage can be damaged if the soil for its laying is improperly and poorly prepared. But do not worry about the final result, read our tips, carefully study your site and get to work. How to prepare the base for the road:

1. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site for the construction of the road. Various types soils have, respectively different characteristics: organic soil or peat cannot withstand heavy loads, and therefore are practically unsuitable for road construction. Sedimentary rocks and clay turn into mud when wet, but mixing them with sand or gravel and providing good drainage can make a good path. There is a proven test to determine the type of soil. You need to remove the top soil layer along the planned route and drive along this “primer” for some time. Take a closer look at how it behaves in the rain, whether water appears in a rut, how wet soil withstands the car. If a small rut forms in the “primer”, this is quite acceptable. But in the event that water is easily squeezed out of the soil, the soil must be removed and a special pillow should be poured.

2. You came across organic soil or peat. In this case, it is best to choose the soil completely up to a layer with good bearing characteristics. If such a layer is not found at a "reasonable" depth, then select the soil to a depth of 60 cm below the level of the projected road. In the resulting “trough”, fill the cobblestone with a layer of 20-30 cm, then lay a layer of sand with fine gravel about 6 cm. The aggregate with a fine fraction will spill into the voids of the lower layer and will not allow the site to shrink. The resulting backfill must be well compacted and you can start laying concrete, asphalt or pavers of your choice.

3. If your base is clay or sedimentary rocks, it is saturated with water and does not have humus, then proceed as follows. After removing the top layer of soil and trimming the soil, the bottom of the “trough” must be loosened with bulldozer teeth or excavator bucket teeth. Pour clean crushed stone into the resulting grooves with a layer of at least 6 cm, make the backfill wider than the canvas of the future path by 30-60 cm in both directions. Good drainage is essential, as frozen water expands and can crack the pavement. We offer several options for drainage: - The compacted soil base of the road is covered with gravel with a particle size of up to 4 cm with a layer of at least 10 cm thick, all layers (both filling and coating) are laid with a slope for drainage - The subsoil layer of questionable density is mixed with crushed stone and compacted , a special moisture-proof synthetic canvas is laid between the soil and the gravel-sand mixture, all layers have a drainage slope.

Before covering roadbed should be leveled with a grader and compacted with a heavy hand or road roller.

The choice of material for paving the road and site

In my opinion, to the best views coverings for the access road and the platform near the garage can be attributed to monolithic concrete or vibrocast concrete tiles. Roads from monolithic concrete very durable and strong. Another plus of concrete - the road from it will significantly save family budget. Such roads look ordinary, strict, but they are very practical in operation. If you want something more elegant and beautiful, choose vibrocast concrete paving slabs. Such a tile is well tolerated by heavy loads, durable, environmentally friendly, frost-resistant and undemanding in care. Also, the access road can be paved with bricks or clinker. Before styling top coat piece material you will need to add another layer to the base of the road. Usually this is a compacted layer of plaster-rubble flour with a thickness of 2.5 cm. Further laying the top coating according to the recommendations for each specific material.

Built-in lighting

Even at the design stage of the road, do not forget about recessed lighting. For this purpose, LEDs are ideal, which can be built directly into the track, without fear of the load from cars passing through them. Choose low-brightness light sources to avoid glare. Fixtures are preferred small size. By the way, LEDs can illuminate any translucent decorative elements, built into the path when paving, so you can experiment and insert some transparent tiles. But we repeat once again - you need to think about lighting in advance, before the start of direct paving of the road and site.

Garage area heating

A familiar picture for many: a winter morning, snowdrifts at the entrance to the garage, a shovel in hand ... Of course, there are advantages to morning warm-up, but to save time and feel comfortable, you can equip the area near the garage with a cable heating system. Such systems have recently become widespread and are used to heat stairs, roads, open areas and steps. The system consists of a cable and a control device and is similar to the "warm floor" system installed in houses. cable system heating can be installed in different kinds coverings: asphalt, granite, paving slabs, marble. The heating cable is laid directly into the concrete screed, so the presence of a heating system on your site must be planned before laying the main coating. When entering the garage, it is more advisable to use an armored cable that has a high heat dissipation and operating temperature.

The heating system operates in manual and automatic modes, thermostats record the outdoor temperature and the presence of precipitation and automatically turn on the heating on the site. Melt water runs off into special water collectors, and the site remains dry and clean.

The cable heating system consumes at least 300 W / m2, therefore, in order to save resources, it is necessary to correctly place heating cable. There is not always a need to heat the entire site, you can limit yourself to places under the wheel tracks. Give preference to systems with "smart" precipitation sensors, the use of which will significantly save energy consumption.

Good luck in job!

19829 0

People setting up Vacation home or a dacha, are faced with the task of tiling paths and areas designed not only for pedestrian traffic, but also for the passage of cars.

Such passages and platforms should have the following characteristics:

Evenness.
Strength.
Durability.
Functionality.
Aesthetics.

Therefore, it is not easy to choose the right technology for arranging such surfaces. One of the options may be laying tiles under the car on a base, made taking into account the upcoming operational loads. When choosing a type paving slabs it would be right to give preference to paving stones. The whole complex of works on this technology is divided into stages:

A. Substrate preparation:

Planning and layout.
Excavation.
Filling and tamping of crushed stone pillow.
Installation of curbs.
Reinforcement and preparatory screed.

B. Laying paving stones and sealing joints.

Building a solid foundation is the key to success

The execution of work begins with a survey of the territory on which the work will be carried out, and the release of the future construction site from all that is superfluous. Then you need to start marking the tracks and platforms, and then decide which of them the vehicles will move along.

Sites of the territory where the construction of driveways and platforms is planned, must be pre-planned. If the area of arrangement is significant, then it is advisable to involve a tractor for earthworks, which will simultaneously cut the top layer of soil with a thickness of 30-35 cm.

When marking to mark the boundaries of paths and platforms, it is convenient to use wooden pegs driven in at 3 m increments on straight sections and at 1 m increments at turns, into which small nails are driven in from above to stretch the control cord.

Paths designed for the passage of a passenger car must be at least 2.2 m wide so that it is safe to pass a pedestrian. This figure must also be linked to the size of the paving slabs that they plan to lay.

It is desirable that the width of the passage be a multiple of the size of the pavers, which will allow it to be cut less. If it is planned to make a turn on such tracks, then the radius of curvature of the turn for passenger car should be 6-7 m.

After upper layer soil is removed, leveling and tamping should be done. Compaction of small areas can be done manually with a piece of log suitable sizes with a bar nailed across its cut as handles. If you need to ram large area, then it is advisable to use an electric vibrating plate. Compacted surfaces must be filled with water. This tamping technology provides additional shrinkage of the base.

Then the surface to be prepared must be covered with a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of 15-20 cm, leveled taking into account the future slope and also compacted. Instead of crushed stone, if available, you can use broken brick appropriate size fraction.

Installation of curbs

After tamping, you need to proceed with the installation of curbs (road stone). On driveways and areas where vehicles will move, the curb must be well fixed in order to avoid damage in the event of an accidental collision with a car. Important! The elevation of the curb above the level of paving slabs should be no more than 14 cm so that the road stone cannot damage the bumper passenger car.

Laying curbs is carried out on both sides of the driveways and the perimeter of the sites. For reasons of economy, it is advisable to choose a concrete product with dimensions of 100x30x15 cm (length, height, width), the weight of which is 100 kg and allows its installation by two workers. The need for a curbstone is equal to the size of the perimeter of the sites and twice the length of the driveways in meters.

The border is mounted on concrete base. Concrete is prepared from a mixture of cement, sand and gravel in proportions of 1:3:5. In the place where the curb is laid, crushed stone is raked with a trowel, a layer of concrete 3-5 cm thick is laid, and the stone is installed on the remaining crushed stone cushion. The curb should not rise above the curb by more than 5 cm. Then it should be aligned with the control cord on the pegs, and then the rubble should be leveled around.

The next stone is laid in the same way, but a gap of 5-10 mm should be left between the curbs to fill it later with a cement-sand mortar. At the same time, it is necessary to provide a curb slope of 3-5% in the direction opposite to the existing buildings. At the turns of the paths, you need to use a grinder with a disk designed for cutting stone, cut the curb into 4 parts and use these quarters to form an arc, leaving a gap of the same size between them.

Preparatory concrete screed

After finishing laying the curbs, you need to proceed with the construction of the preparatory concrete screed, the surface of which will indicate the profile of the future coating of paving slabs. Concrete is prepared from a mixture of cement, sand and crushed stone of a fraction of 10-20 mm in a ratio of 1:3:5. The thickness of the screed should be 5 cm together with the penetration into the crushed stone preparation.

Before laying concrete on driveways, you need to decide what profile the coating will be, flat or convex. Tracks with a convex cross section can withstand heavy loads. If a decision is made to equip driveways with a convex profile, then the transverse slope of the coating on both sides of the middle should be 2-3 cm per meter of width, that is, 2-3%. Based on this, the preparatory screed should designate a draft version of the pavement flooring profile, that is, have a transverse bulge.

The screed on the sites should also be done with a slope in the direction opposite to the existing buildings. But the flat profile and large surfaces of parking areas in front of the screed device need to be reinforced. First you need to decide which reinforcement to use.

The correct choice of reinforcement option would be to install a mesh of reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm, made of fiberglass. The dimensions of the reinforcing mesh cell should be 10-12 cm. The fiberglass reinforcement is knitted with plastic clamps, followed by trimming off excess ends or ordinary knitting wire. The grid is placed on compacted gravel, and a leveling screed is arranged on top of it.

A day after the installation of the screed, if the air temperature is above +25 degrees, the screed should be watered 2-3 times a day. After a week, when the screed will gain approximately 70% strength, you can start laying paving stones.

paving stones

The need for paving slabs is calculated by multiplying the area of the equipped surface by 1.1. The thickness of the paving stones for covering driveways for the car should not be less than 6 mm, while it is better to give preference to small or medium-sized paving stones because of their higher strength characteristics. The shape and color of the tiles are chosen individually.

Paving slabs made of concrete with the addition of a dye will remain colored for the entire time of operation. And the paint applied to the paving stone only from the outside on one of the sides will be erased over time.

However, you should be aware that an excess of dye added to concrete reduces the strength of concrete. Therefore, you should not buy tiles of bright rich colors. In addition, the surface of the tile at the break should be uniform both in texture and color.

Paving stones should be laid on cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1:3. Such a solution will provide reliable adhesion to the preparatory screed and strong fixation of the paving stones. The surface of the leveling screed must be swept and then moistened before laying the pavers. A solution with a layer thickness of 3 cm is applied to the screed, tiles are placed on it and rubber mallet recessed and leveled to the desired position.

A fixed gap of 3-5 mm should be left between individual tiles. The evenness of the laying of paving stones, as well as the exposure to the required slope, must be periodically checked with a straight rail 2 m long or by pulling a cord along the surface.

Deviations from a straight line should not exceed 5 mm. If it is necessary to adjust at the junction with the curbs, paving slabs are cut with a grinder with a disk designed for cutting stone. The convex transverse profile of the driveways must be controlled with a pattern made from a board of the required length.

Seam sealing

After finishing laying paving slabs, you need to give the solution 3 days to harden. Then you need to prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3 and fill the joints of curbs and paving stones with a curb stone. A day later, you need to prepare a dry solution of the same proportion. Having poured one bucket of this solution onto the laid paving stones, you need to sweep it with a broom in the direction of the slope until the entire solution is in the seams.

Sealing tile joints is necessary in order for the product to last a long time.

The procedure for laying a dry mortar into the joints is carried out until all the joints of the pavers are completely filled. Then pour water from a watering can over the equipped surfaces to moisten the dry solution in the seams, and then give it a day to harden. A day after hardening and shrinkage, you need to add a dry mortar to the seams in the same way, but do not allow the seams to be filled flush with the tiles. Seams must be clearly marked. The hardening of this solution in the seams will occur due to the moisture content of the lower layers of the surface.

The passage of the car on the new pavers should be allowed one month after laying, when cement mortar base will gain 100% of its strength. Paving slabs laid using this technology do not sag from erosion of the base by rain or groundwater, withstands the load from the movement of a car on it, is easy to clean and does not require maintenance.

Features of laying paving slabs for possible passage and parking of the car are associated with a large weight effect on the paved surface. In this regard, they are subject to the following requirements, the observance of which is mandatory:

the coating must be stable and not move under high weight pressure;
the surface should be even and dense, without loose seams between the tiles;
base pavement it is necessary to make it very dense, without air voids between the components;
the obligatory presence of a drainage drainage layer, since water can affect the strength of the base;
the use of paving slabs of increased strength and frost resistance;
installation of a curb fence made of stone.

In order to prevent subsidence and destruction of the coating, it is necessary to apply the technology of a reinforced base and use materials of increased strength.

Selection of necessary materials

Manufacturers building materials offer paving slabs on the market. The first type of materials is distinguished by bright rich colors and variety of forms. Tiles made by vibrocompression are more modest in appearance, but they have increased strength and frost resistance.

If the weight of the car does not exceed 1 ton, then clinker paving slabs can also be used for laying. In the case when the weight of the machine is over 1000 kg, then it is better for you to opt for pressed products. The thickness of the tiles must be at least 60 mm.

When buying a tile, ask the seller to show a cut sample from the batch being sold. He is obliged to do this, and if he refuses, then simply do not buy such a product. The incision should have a uniform density and should not contain any foreign inclusions. Their presence indicates the low quality of the material.

About meaning appearance We will not talk, but checking the tiles for abrasion is easy. Take 2 stones and rub them together front side. Look at the result: if the surfaces remain the same, then the material is good, otherwise it is better not to take such a tile.

In addition to paving slabs, to perform work, you must purchase:

sand, preferably river sand, for the primary substrate and backing pad for paving slabs;
crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm to create a drainage layer under the base of the coating;
gravel with a fraction of not more than 25 mm for a denser overlap of the drainage layer;
cement brand M300-M500 for the preparation of concrete and the formation of a cement-sand mixture;
insulating with one-sided direction of moisture passage.

In addition, it is necessary to resolve the issue of choosing and acquiring a curb stone, which will protect the passage and parking space. You can make it yourself from concrete or buy it.

Marking and earthworks

Preparation and marking with pegs and cord.

Laying paving slabs under the car begins with the marking of the area intended for paving. The width of the road should be at least 2.2 meters, and the parking area - at your discretion. The car entrance to the house can be arranged close to the footpath. For marking and measurement, pegs, a strong cord and a tape measure are used. The distance between the pegs should provide a good cord tension.

After that, in accordance with the marked contours, the top layer of soil is removed to a depth of 30-35 cm. If the area is large, then it makes sense to hire a backhoe loader to perform this work. He will be able to carefully remove the fertile layer and transport it to the place of storage or scatter it in the right place.

Schematic options for the bases for laying paving slabs.

The bottom of the resulting trench should be sprinkled with sand with a layer of 2-3 cm and compacted well using a construction tamping machine or vibrating plate. Geotextiles should be spread over the compacted sand in such a way that adjacent canvases overlap by 8-10 cm, and the sidewalls are wrapped up by 20-25 cm.

This layer will prevent weeds from growing through the base and keep beautiful view coverage for a long time. In addition, it will stop the possible rise of groundwater in the spring.

Backfilling of the drainage layer

Tamping of a drainage layer from crushed stone and gravel.

Along the edges of the passage and the platform is installed curbstone. The installation height is adjusted by adding sand mixed with gravel. The vertical fastening of the curb from the inside is carried out by driving in persistent pegs, and from the outside - by adding crushed stone, gravel or sand.

Now a layer of crushed stone 12-15 cm thick is poured onto the textile coating and rammed. A layer of gravel mixed with sand in a ratio of 2: 1 should be laid on top of the crushed stone to level the surface. After that, you need to tamp the surface and cover drainage layer geotextile.

Sand cushion foundation

A pillow of clean water is poured over the drainage layer. river sand 5-7 cm thick, spilled with water and well rammed. For the next layer, you need to prepare a dry cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:4 and pour the base on the sand with a layer of 6-7 cm.

Schematic images laying options on sand or dry mix.

It also needs to be tamped down and leveled with a plaster rule according to the level. For more accurate alignment, you can install metal longitudinal beacons, fixing them on bulk slides from the mixture.

Paving slabs

After preparing and leveling the cement-sand base, paving slabs are laid under the car. It is very important that precipitation does not fall between the installation of the top layer and the laying of the tiles. The surface on which the paving stones will be laid must be dry.

For the edge row of paving slabs, pull the cord at the appropriate masonry height. Lay 1 row along the curb and 1 row across the driveway. Now start filling in the required area by laying tiles in 1 m 2 segments, moving from one area to another across the driveway.

Constantly check the position of the tiles in height using building level. Tiles must be laid as close as possible to one another. Tiles are leveled with a rubber mallet.

After finishing the masonry, sprinkle a little dry cement mixture on the surface and use a brush to fill the seams between the tiles with it.

Final work

The final work includes cleaning the paved surface and leveling the level of the adjacent territory. Water the surface 2-3 days after laying. After it dries, repeat the grouting dry cement mixture. This will ensure complete sealing of the joints and exclude the penetration of water under the coating.

Categories

Popular