The cut of the tabletop than to close. How to glue the edge to the countertop with an iron? Gluing furniture melamine edges on chipboard. How to glue melamine edging

Chipboard furniture at the edges of the cuts is easily subjected to mechanical damage and has an unaesthetic appearance. The edge on the edge of the furniture will help to cope with these problems.

It will protect the surface from different kind damage - water ingress, chips, scratches and will complete the interior design.

Very often, when buying furniture, you have to glue the edge yourself and beginners have a lot of questions and difficulties about this.

Edge types

To begin with, let's figure out what types of edges exist, because it depends on the material how it will be most effective to glue them:

Melamine edge

natural furniture edge

Usually they are produced with an adhesive layer on a dense paper basis. This is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option. For this type of edges, the easiest way is suitable, which can be used independently at home - glue furniture edge using an iron or glue if there is no sticky base.

PVC edges

This type is the most durable and resistant to mechanical damage, non-flammable and not exposed to moisture, salt, alkaline substances. Available in 2 mm and 4 mm thick. PVC edge can be glued at home with glue.

ABS edges

Such edges are the most expensive, but also the most environmentally friendly. They possess smooth surface, most pliable when applied to folds, retain original color forever and ever. Attach this species possible only under conditions production shop due to the need for special equipment.

Acrylic edging

This type is also quite expensive, the surface of this edge is smooth, shiny, made of plastic. Often purchased for the design of glossy kitchen sets, countertops. It is impossible to properly attach such an edge on your own, since this is done exclusively in furniture production.

How to glue the edge to the countertop with an iron

As can be seen from the description of existing on the market building materials edges, for self-gluing at home, only melamine edge to the adhesive base and PVC edge are suitable.

Melamine edge is the cheapest and easiest to use, but it also has a number of disadvantages:

• due to poor-quality connection with the countertop, it can peel off if the work was done by the hands of an inexperienced craftsman;
• often exposed to water, after which it can peel off;
• less aesthetic than more expensive types of edges.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use a melamine edge, you can use the simplest and most popular method, for which we need the following materials and devices:

• iron or hair dryer;
• edge;
• paper.

Step by step steps to glue the edge with an iron:

1. We heat the edge with a hairdryer or iron, in order for the glue to soften a little, you do not need to put the iron on maximum power so as not to damage the edge material and leave marks on the soleplate of the appliance. It is enough to use the "Silk" mode;
2. We apply the strip with the adhesive side to the surface of the countertop, on which we will glue. The width of the strip and the edges of the countertop must match exactly. Try to do everything as carefully as possible, it should work the first time, otherwise, in case of repeated attempts, the adhesive layer may be broken, and such an edge will be considered damaged. You can determine that the edge has stuck when the gap between the tabletop surface and the tape completely disappears;
3. With force we press the edge to the surface, iron it with an iron and hold it with force with a roller or a simple dry rag along the entire length, fixing and pressing the tape. If the glue has come out a little on the edges, you can finely sandpaper and file off unnecessary glue residue.
4. The end of the tabletop is ready.

We glue the edge to the countertop with glue

In case the melamine tape does not have adhesive base you can use glue. Also, this method is suitable for edges made of PVC. For this we need:

• universal glue;
• a piece of dense dry cloth for pressing and wiping the surface. In order to press the edge more tightly, you can wrap a small bar in the fabric and press the tape with it.

Apply dense layer adhesive on the edge surface and on the surface of the surface to be treated so that after pressing the adhesive residues would not come out.

We press two surfaces to each other gently, but with effort. If the hem is long, it's best to have someone help you hold and smooth the other end.

We maintain the amount of time required according to the instructions, while simultaneously smoothing it with a bar wrapped in fabric. We make sure that the materials do not exfoliate anywhere.

After you are sure that everything is securely hooked up, you can let go. If there are glue residues, carefully remove them with sandpaper or a small file. After all the steps, you can polish the edge with a piece of leather.

Now you are convinced that you can glue the furniture edge yourself at home, with minimal time and money. All materials are at home or in any hardware store or the housekeeping department of a supermarket. If you carefully and accurately follow all the instructions, the edge will protect your furniture from damage and delight in its appearance!

Hello!

In this lesson we will look at how to glue the edge to the countertop or to the parts with chipboard. The bottom line is to do it right.

1. joint knife (must be well sharpened);
2. skin;
3. roller for wallpaper seams;
4. iron (or building hair dryer). The principle will be the same;
5. melamine edge.

Which edge for chipboard is better?

It is impeccable that PVC edge is many times better than melamine. Because it's more reliable. Since paper wears out faster, and it feels different to the touch.

Operating procedure

Before starting work, you must select optimum temperature heating the iron, so as not to burn it and not to glue it again. We will glue the edge according to the finished one, which we analyzed in the previous lesson.

In those cases where you need to process 2 or more sides, it is desirable to do everything together. But first, I recommend gluing the edge on each side separately.

Now we will process the edges on which we will glue with sandpaper. This is necessary in order to remove the irregularities that could remain after cutting. After that, we measure the length and proceed to gluing.

When you first went through the iron, take the roller and press it firmly against the part.

At the next stage, we cut off the edges of the edge that hang down with a knife.

The scheme will be as follows: holding the knife at an angle, draw along the edge, slightly wringing the newly glued edge to the laminate and carefully cut it off. The next step is to sand the edges. To get rid of burrs and achieve perfectly smooth edges.

Since, on the edge cut, its color may differ from the actual color of the part, it can be treated with a stain.

For pieces of furniture made of laminated chipboard, the edges without processing do not look very aesthetically pleasing. In addition, formaldehyde resin, which holds the chips together in the board, can be a source of harmful fumes. To avoid these problems, use a special furniture profile or edge. For gluing the edges, special equipment is usually used, but this task can be handled independently at home. So, the edge for the countertop with glue - how to glue? We'll talk about this.

Chipboard is one of the most common materials in furniture production. The furniture edge is designed to mask the cuts formed after cutting the right details. For the manufacture of decorative strips, various edges are used. They are made from different materials. They also have different features and prices. Before gluing the edge on the countertop, consider the main types of materials.

Melamine impregnated paper edge - the most cheap option. For its manufacture, thick paper impregnated with melamine and varnished is used. For the convenience of edging, an adhesive coating is applied to the reverse side of the film. Working with the material is extremely simple: you need to warm it up and press it well against the furniture end.

Important! Paper edging is not only the cheapest, but also the most short-lived type of finish.

The most common paper tape thicknesses are 0.2 and 0.4 mm. Using a thicker edge is pointless, and the price will increase significantly.

Important! Paper ribbons bend well, do not break, but they mechanical strength extremely low. For this reason, paper edging is used on the back of a shelf or countertop - where there is no heavy load.

Durable and practical polyvinyl chloride (PVC) has found application in furniture production. A tape is formed from the polymer mass, painted in one color or another. The front surface can be smooth or textured (imitation of wood fibers). There are so many color options that you can choose the right one without special difficulties. Wherein, pvc price more than affordable.

Sticking PVC is very simple, so home craftsmen often use it. You can get good results with simple fixtures. The advantages of PVC tape include:

• High strength.
• Moisture resistance.
• Chemical neutrality to household chemicals.

The thickness of the furniture edge is 0.4-4.0 mm, with a width of 19-54 mm. Tapes are available with or without adhesive.

Important! Polyvinyl chloride also has a significant minus: a not very wide operating temperature range (-5 - +45 degrees). Therefore, in winter time furniture should not be left outside for a long time (for example, when moving). Care must also be taken when heating the material before gluing, so that it does not melt.

This is ecological safe material, which does not contain impurities harmful to health. It is durable and practical, resistant to significant temperature changes. It has one drawback - a relatively high cost.

Important! ABC tape can be matte, semi-gloss or glossy. There is a furniture tape that imitates various varieties tree.

This is the thinnest wood cut, processed and shaped like a ribbon. It is used when finishing the edges of veneer products. The material is expensive and quite difficult to use. The sticker of this material requires certain skills, so it is advisable to turn to the masters.

The reverse side of the tape has a pattern, and a transparent acrylic layer creates a three-dimensional effect. Therefore, it is also known as 3D. This option is suitable for furniture with an original design.

In addition to the edges, a special T-shaped or U-shaped profile is used for furniture finishing. For T-profiles a groove is formed in the edge. The profile itself is hammered into the groove with a mallet. There are profiles in 14 and 16 mm made of plastic or aluminum. Installation of a profile with a U-shaped section is carried out on a special glue.

Important! The disadvantage of this type of finish is that they are of little use for curved surfaces.

There are 2 types of gluing:

• The first one refers to materials with an adhesive applied.
• The second concerns gluing tapes without an adhesive layer.

Important! In the latter case, they acquire a universal glue that glues edging, wood and plastic equally well.

Now about how thick the material to choose. According to the canons of GOST, edges that are not visible can not be processed. But it’s better not to be too lazy and trim all the cuts. This is necessary to avoid absorption of moisture by chipboard and evaporation of formaldehyde:

• For the treatment of inconspicuous areas, PVC tape with a thickness of 0.4 mm is used.
• On the “front” edges, a PVC tape 2 mm thick is used.
• For shelves - 1 mm.

Self-adhesive adhesive tape

Start working with thin edges. To begin with, consider the installation of melamine or PVC tape. Consider how to glue the edge on the chipboard with an iron. To do this, you will need scissors and an ordinary iron with a fluoroplastic nozzle. The procedure is as follows:

1. Cut off a piece of tape with a margin of 1.5-2.0 cm.
2. Put the iron on the “deuce”.
3. Attach the edge to the surface to be treated, level it so that small pieces hang down along the edges.
4. Iron the ribbon through the nozzle. If there is no nozzle, you can use soft textiles.
5. After the edge has dried, trim the edges. To make them look as even as possible, process them with a manual router.

Important! Trimming the edges must be done with the utmost care. The material is thin, all defects are very noticeable.

To stick a PVC tape without a special layer, you will need a universal adhesive for PVC edges to furniture (for example, “Moment”) and a piece of soft textile:

1. Be sure to read the instructions for the adhesive first.
2. Now apply glue to the tape, wait for the time indicated in the instructions, then connect the surfaces to be glued.
3. To press surfaces more tightly, use wooden block or soft cloth.
4. Press down on the tape in a stroking motion for better adhesion.
5. After the glue has completely hardened, you can align the edges.

There are no particular difficulties in repairing sections of furniture. The main thing is to choose best option material and apply it correctly, and how to do it - you now know, thanks to this review.

For a long time I searched the Internet for an answer to such a question, I found something, I tried to do it. But committed great amount mistakes before worked out own technology which I will now share. I hope this experience saves someone time and money.

We will need:
1) a tabletop with an even cut;
2) 3d edge;
3) glue "Moment No. 88";
4) express adhesive for styrofoam and wood;
5) household gloves or a rag;
6) scissors for metal, or any saw;
7) a file, or a bar for sharpening knives, or a nail file as a last resort;
8) something metal profiled with an acute angle, I used alternately a chisel, a file and a zinc-plated corner 50 * 50;
9) a piece of linoleum.

1. Preparation of the countertop - the evenly sawn edge must be cleaned of dust.
To do this, I put on my hand an ordinary household rag glove with small pimples of blue rubber and for several minutes drove my hand along the cut, first back and forth, and in the end in one direction, since the laminated chipboard began to crumble. I planted a few splinters, so I advise you to use a double glove.

2. Preparing the 3d edge. It needs to be unrolled from the roll and try to straighten it slightly. To do this, they warm it up with a building hair dryer, but I didn’t have this, so I didn’t heat it, but twisted the edge in the opposite direction. There was dirt on the glued surface - I removed it with solvent 646, I don’t advise you to do this, you can dissolve the drawing itself. An alcohol wipe is better, but do not hold it for a long time, do not press hard.

3. Priming the countertop.
It is not so easy to get the Kvintol Lux glue recommended on construction forums, and Moment No. 88 impregnates the chipboard very unevenly, as a result, the edge does not stick well - you need to prepare the butt, help the glue grab better.
In a store near the house I found "liquid nails express" for polystyrene foam - transparent glue, 90 kg / m2, initial hardening time 15 minutes, according to properties transparent plastic. You can take any high-quality express glue for polystyrene foam - there is no need to be afraid that it will not work, since it is not intended for hard plastics, which include the edge - we will use it only to give the desired properties to the chipboard cut.
The tube is for a pistol, but I simply crushed it with a file, squeezed out the "worm" into a cut and immediately, until it hardened, smeared it with my finger, pushing it deep into the material.
After 15 minutes, he, of course, was still not quite ready. Soh three hours. The excess was removed with a fingernail, not without difficulty. The cut is pretty solid.

4. Bonding.
We cut off the edge with scissors for metal (or saw it off with a saw) so that it hangs 5-6 millimeters along the edges and do everything according to the instructions for glue 88: coat (with a thin continuous layer first the edge, since it does not absorb glue - it will take longer to dry, then countertop over a hard layer of express glue), wait 15-20 minutes, combine and press firmly over the entire area.
After that, you need to let the glue harden for 24 hours (I waited 10).
So that the edge does not move away during this time, but, on the contrary, sticks even better - it is advisable to fix it in a pressed position. For example, you can put the countertop edge on the floor covered with linoleum - perfect option. A piece of linoleum can be borrowed from someone for these purposes, they all remain after repair.

5. Cutting and milling.
Where more than 2-3 mm overhangs, we draw a line from below with something sharp (in this case, the 3d-edge pattern deteriorates and the line becomes very noticeable) and cut obliquely from above, obliquely - so as not to damage the material. If less than 2-3 mm - we do milling:
It is better not to even try to cut with a knife - the edge is very strong, the result is very bad. But if you turn the knife 90 degrees and in this position scrape the edge along the entire joint - like scraping a carrot to peel - the result will exceed expectations. I didn’t even use a knife, but a file, a chisel edge and a galvanized corner edge alternately. The angle must be gradually changed: first we cut flush, then we make a beautiful chamfer, changing the angle from 0 to 90 degrees. At the same time, we clean off the excess adhesive that has come out.

6. Finishing touches.
If gaps, cracks, or chips form, they can be filled with polystyrene foam glue.
I also advise them to coat the bottom of the countertop, especially where there is no drip tray and where, accordingly, water can get.
We process the corners with a file or a bar.

Everything is so, in general, not very difficult. Available. Just. In some ways it is worse than on the machine (not so smoothly until the hand is stuffed), but in some ways it is better (the machine does not impregnate or prime anything - protection from water is worse).

What terrible mistakes have I managed to make here?
1) impregnated with drying oil - chipboard absorbed half a bottle of drying oil and swelled at the place of impregnation, besides, the smell lingered for several days;
2) heated with an ordinary hair dryer - ineffective - you need to blow for a very long time at one point so that the edge becomes pliable, and when you move to another point - the first one has already hardened, so you can ruin the hair dryer, but you can’t lay the edge evenly;
3) heated through a sheet of paper with an iron - completely in vain, the adhesive seam lost its strength, it did not give anything else;
4) cut, melting with a soldering iron for polypropylene - a terrible stench and a very slow process at t 250 degrees, and at 300 my countertop caught fire from below.

Hello dear friends!

As a rule, a melamine (paper) edge is glued on its own, and 0.5 mm thick.

Although, I believe that everything that can be ordered cheaply on the side should be ordered, freeing yourself from unnecessary routine work.

But still there are times when this procedure has to be done by yourself.

I generally do not recommend processing the ends of parts with a melamine edge, since the savings are cheap, and the quality of such a product will be low.

But PVC can sometimes be glued (but not thick, so if its thickness is 2 mm, then special equipment will be needed for such an operation).

So, what is needed for gluing?

First, you need special stops into which the part is inserted.

They are usually made from chipboard waste on their own (they are clearly visible in the photographs).

At a minimum, there should be two of them, in case the part is large.

Secondly, you need an iron.

It should be heavy, and on a spiral (old versions). In this case, he will keep a high temperature for a long time (it is measured visually, with a finger on which saliva).

Such irons can be bought at flea markets.

Warm it up and try it.

It should not burn the edge, but it should also melt the glue that is applied to its reverse side well.

The measure of all this, of course, is experience. You need to try a couple of times, and everything will become clear.

And the last thing you need is a bar on which a small “knife” is stuffed. She smoothes the machined ends.

This is done so that the glued edge cannot be accidentally torn off.

Yes, I forgot. You need another piece of felt, which is pressed against the newly glued edge.

And the process itself is quite simple.

The part is set on the stop.

According to its size, a piece of the edge is broken off (cut off) (with a small margin) and lies on the desired edge.

After that, it is carried out with a heated iron “under pressure”, at the same time, rubbing the glued part of the part with felt with force.

When the edge has "grabbed", it is cut off with a knife.

This operation must be done correctly.

The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus cutting off the protruding part of the edge evenly.

If it goes at an angle to the plane of the part, it will constantly “cut” into the corner face, and this will leave chips.

After the remnants are cut off from the part, all edges along the edges of the part are rubbed with a “knife”.

If the detail, or with roundings, then the situation is more complicated.

First, you need to process such a part with a milling cutter so that it has the correct edges, and only after that proceed to gluing.

But in this case, the whole procedure, of course, will be more complicated.

Therefore, I repeat: order these things “on the side”.

That's all.

In the manufacture of furniture from laminated chipboard, the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, a furniture edge and a profile are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the ugly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it from different materials, respectively, it has different properties and price.

Paper or melamine edges

The cheapest option is melamine impregnated paper edges. Paper is taken with increased density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and pasted on papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layered (cheaper) and double-layered. To prevent the melamnov coating from being erased, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the reverse side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, it is only necessary to warm up this composition slightly and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edging - the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in doing it thicker, and it will turn out expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But its mechanical strength is very low - the edge is quickly worn out. Therefore, if it is used, then only on those surfaces that are not subjected to stress. For example, on back side shelves, countertops, etc.

PVC

Polyvinyl chloride, which has recently become widespread, is also used in the production of edges for furniture. From dyed to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth monophonic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it is easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edge is the most popular material used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

PVC furniture edge is produced different thickness and width. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. There is a furniture PVC edge with an applied adhesive composition, there is - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edging material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heating, you must be careful not to melt the polymer.

Made of ABS (ABS) plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals, differs high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

This type of edge can be matte, glossy, semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate different types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to work with and more durable in use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin slice of wood that has been dyed and shaped into a ribbon. This furniture edge is used in production when pasting slices of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from clear acrylic. On the reverse side stripes are applied drawing. The polymer layer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. It is used in the manufacture of furniture in an unusual design.

Furniture edge profiles

You can finish the edge of furniture not only with an edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are mechanically fastened. They have two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

A groove is milled under the T-shaped furniture profiles in the processed edge. A profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the corner look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum, with the same installation method they look very different, and the differences are significant.

In width, they are available for chipboard 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted on glue. They coat the edge with them, then put on a plastic profile, press well and fix. These PVC profiles are soft and hard. Rigid ones bend worse and it is difficult to paste over curved edges with them. But they have great strength.

If you still need to "plant" a rigid C-shaped furniture profile in a bend, it is heated with a building hair dryer, then given the desired shape and fixed with masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue the furniture edge with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those who have glue applied on the back. In this case, you need an iron or a building hair dryer. The second is for sticking tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good all-purpose adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

A little about how thick the edge to glue on what parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, can not be glued at all, but basically they are trying to process them so that moisture is less absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or PVC 0.4 mm is glued to these edges. Also handle the edges drawers(not facades).

On the front ends of the facade and drawers it is better to use PVC 2 mm, and on the visible sections of the shelves - PVC 1 mm. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue the edging with glue yourself

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you have chosen PVC, it is easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine ones are easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, a dense cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. For this purpose, a building hair dryer is also suitable. We put the iron on about “deuce”, while it is heated, cut off a piece of tape. Length - a couple of centimeters more than the workpiece.

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it. Small pieces should hang down from both sides. We take an iron and, through a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, warming up until the glue melts. It is necessary to warm up evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a regular metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.

So, we take the tool of your choice, cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic are perfectly cut with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may already arise. Such edges are possible, if any. This guarantees a good result in a short time. Longer processing will last if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, because of which all defects are visible. Therefore, first go through the cuts with sandpaper, then carefully dedust, degrease. Only after that you can glue.

Edging with PVC tape (without adhesive on the reverse side)

With this method of self-gluing PVC edges, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue, perform all the actions on the recommendation. For example, for Moment glue, it is necessary to apply on the surface and distribute the composition, wait 15 minutes, press the surfaces to be glued strongly.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To tightly press the edge to the cut, you can use a wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a bar, you can take a construction grater, and also attach felt to its sole. In extreme cases, you can roll up a dense fabric in several layers and thereby press the tape to the surface.

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all the weight, pressing it against the chipboard surface. The movements at the same time are stroking. So iron the entire edge, achieving a very snug fit. In this form, the part is left for a while - so that the glue "grabs". Then you can start processing the edge.

The edge in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapor.

You will learn about what edges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue an edge with an iron and a hairdryer, from this article.

Types of edges - why are they needed

1. The most common type - melamine edge with paper based adhesive. It is applied to finishing of internal sites of furniture. Affordable, inexpensive, but not the best quality option. Does not tolerate moisture, wears out quickly. Easy to stick at home with a simple iron.
2. T-shaped flexible profile - is a T-shaped bar, it is inserted into a slot in the side of the chipboard or MDF. It is convenient to replace the damaged element in the future without disassembling the furniture. Installation requires a milling machine.
3. PVC edging - reliably protects the ends of furniture from damage, is wear-resistant, moisture resistant. Gluing PVC edging will require an edger, so using this type of edge at home is difficult.
4. ABS plastic is an eco-friendly, chlorine-free option. Valued for resistance to high temperatures and physical damage.

All options can be divided into two subspecies - edges without glue and with glue.

The average cost of a profile per linear meter:

• PVC 0.4 mm thick - about 25 rubles,
• PVC 2 mm thick - about 40 rubles,
• Melamine material for chipboard - about 25 rubles.

In our country, products from Rehau are actively used, which offers big choice color solutions, and different width tapes from 15 to 45 mm.

To simplify the work, you can use various specialized furniture programs that will calculate how much material is needed to glue the edges.

PVC edge - how to glue in stages at home

For work you will need:

• iron or building hair dryer,
• and of course buy a PVC edge with glue
• hard roller,
• newspaper or paper sheet

The material is heated to make the adhesive sticky. Heating is performed with an iron in the "Synthetics" mode.

• The profile is applied to the end in such a way that it overlaps the end of the section.
• Next, the iron again performs heating through the newspaper. Since the glue dissolves quickly, the process is quite active, and it is convenient to move the iron along the PVC edge.
• The edge itself must be carefully pressed and ironed until it sticks along the entire length.

1. Bonding with a building hair dryer. Instead of an iron, you can use a building hair dryer. The PVC edge is heated from the adhesive side and when the composition becomes sticky, the material is applied to the end desired area, pinch and gently smooth.
2. Gluing with glue "Moment". This method is suitable if there is no adhesive layer on the edge. The quality of the butt is checked manually, sawdust, rubbish, dust are removed until the surface is clean. Then glue is applied to both the material and the end and wait until it sets. After that, apply and press. Using a roller, the area is rolled so that the glue grabs faster.

How to remove excess material

If it was not possible to carefully glue the edge the first time, the procedure will have to be repeated. To do this, glue is again applied to the area and the profile is clamped with a roller or manually.

Since usually the width PVC edging take with a margin, you need to carefully remove the excess along the edges. To do this, use a regular clerical knife or file. It is taken with both hands and pressed on the protruding fragment. As a result, the excess parts are broken off and an edge remains that matches the width of the site.

Shutdown

After everything is glued, it remains to process the bumps with sandpaper.

How to glue an edge on chipboard - a description

Melamine edging is the best option for home use when you need to restore old furniture with minimal cost. If the furniture is expensive, it is better to turn to professionals who use other more expensive and high-quality material.

Consider, how to glue the edge on a chipboard tabletop at home.

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To work, you will need the following materials:

• skin,
• sharply sharpened knife-jamb,
• wallpaper roller,
• melamine edge,
• building hair dryer or iron.

Action algorithm:

1. select the operating mode of the iron so that it does not get too hot and does not burn the chipboard and at the same time ensures proper melting of the glue,
2. process the edges of the chipboard for gluing with sandpaper, eliminate irregularities,
3. measure the profile
4. heat it with an iron and press it firmly against the area with a roller (if there is no adhesive layer, you will need to apply glue to the edge yourself, for example, Moment glue),
5. cut off the hanging edges of the edge with a knife.

It is necessary to cut at an angle along the edge, slightly wringing the material. Then it remains to sand the edges so that there are no burrs and irregularities.

If the cut of the edge and the chipboard itself are slightly different, the stain will help correct the difference.

In the case when the part has a complex shape, and the edge of the surface is characterized by complex relief, it is not always possible to glue the material evenly the first time. In such a situation, it is worth contacting professionals so as not to spoil the product.

Types of edge glue

What glue to choose for the edge

Furniture professionals actively use hot melt adhesives for edging. They are convenient in the event that production will be put on stream, and it is required as high quality results, and fast speed.

Hot melt adhesives are thermoplastics, which means that when heated they become very elastic and when cooled they harden quickly. The polymer of ethylene with vinyl acetate, which is part of the adhesive, is responsible for these properties. The disadvantage of using is the need to use special equipment, namely the appropriate machines or hand guns for applying glue to parts and heating it.

1. AT living conditions often use PVC glue, which sticks well paper materials to various surfaces. Homogeneous without lumps light color the mass adheres well to surfaces, but is afraid of moisture. Does not require application additional equipment, therefore it is convenient for operation by non-professional craftsmen.
2. fit universal adhesives"Moment" and "88-Lux", which will reliably stick the material to the surface of chipboard and PVC. After 3-4 hours the product can be used. Adhesives are inexpensive, safe and available.
3. From professional furniture glue for the edge, it is worth noting products from Kleiberit. The company offers hot melt adhesives for cladding, for gluing the material using the soft-forming method (in case the surface is embossed), as well as for cladding.

The furniture edge is the edge material performing protective and decorative function. These products are used to decorate the unlined part of furniture facades and prevent minor mechanical damage and swelling caused by high humidity air.

Our offer

In the online store of the company "21 century" you can buy edge tape for furniture at reasonable prices. We are selling this material wholesale and retail, providing discounts for large orders. In our catalog there are melamine edges. These products are paper tape impregnated with melamine resins. Hot-melt adhesive is applied to the reverse side of them. Edge tape can be purchased for cladding furniture for the kitchen, living room, bathroom and other rooms. As a rule, it is used in the manufacture of cabinets from chipboard.

If you want to buy edging or other furniture fittings in our online store, just add the selected products to the "Basket" and fill out the online application. If you have any questions regarding the range, current prices and terms of cooperation, call the managers of our company at the numbers listed in the "" section.

Often, due to furniture design errors or other reasons, it is necessary to glue the edge on the laminated chipboard. Paste the traditional plastic edge at home is almost impossible, especially without special equipment. The melamine edge saves, since there are enough colors for it. Let's see how a melamine edge sticker is made and what it is all about.

Without going into details of what the melamine edge itself is made of, we can say that it is a tape on which glue is applied. At the same time, the glue is thermal, so just sticking it will not work. At the same time, thanks to the thermal adhesive on the laminated chipboard, it holds well.

Increase

Fig.1.

Before proceeding to the description of the process of sticking the melamine edge, a few words about the necessary tool and preparation of the chipboard end. To apply a melamine edge, you will need construction hair dryer, a knife and a pair of construction gloves.

Increase
Fig.2.

The end of the chipboard plate must be clean and even., without sawdust and flaking parts. Otherwise, the edge will stick not to the chipboard, but to them and it will not stick well. The best end face is obtained after milling or sawing on the machine. Next, the photo will show the end Bad quality, there just wasn’t anything better at hand.

Increase

Fig.3.

The melamine edge sticker is started by cutting a strip of the desired length from the main roll or slightly longer than required. In this case, the end that will be glued first must be trimmed. You can do this with regular scissors.

Next, apply the edge to the end of the chipboard. It should be noted that the melamine edge is produced in a width of 20 mm, i.e. it is wider than chipboard. Therefore, at this stage it is important to align it along one edge, as in the photo.

Increase

Fig.4.

Please note, on the other side of the chipboard, the edge protrudes. In the future, it must be cut.

Increase

Fig.5.

Next comes the hair dryer. A temperature of 250 degrees is sufficient for gluing a melamine edge. The edge is heated with a hair dryer, thereby melting the glue. characteristic feature, indicating that the adhesive has melted, is the moment when the edge loses its curved shape, after being in the roll, and becomes straight. Then she simply presses against the end of the chipboard with her hands. This must be done with gloves, because. hot edge.

There are several features that should be mentioned.

Edge bonding should be done in a warm room., this will ensure a slower curing of the glue. Accordingly, there will be more time to correct the situation.

It is necessary to warm up the melamine edge not along the entire length, but 20-30 cm each. It is easier to work this way, and the glue does not have time to harden until the edge is pressed against the chipboard end. So, on average, an end face 60 cm long is glued in 3 approaches. The first - the beginning of the edge is glued, the second - the middle part of the edge, the third - the end of the edge.

Fig.6. The advantage of the melamine edge is that when heated, it fits well all the irregularities. Therefore, it can be used for edging parts with a small radius of curvature.

There are many options on the Internet on how to glue an edge. For example, heat it with an iron. In my opinion, this is not advisable. Sometimes, when overheated, the glue flows out from under the edge, and most likely it can ruin the iron, and it costs more than a hair dryer. It is also suggested to cool the edge different ways. This is also not advisable, because. at a room temperature of 25 degrees, the edge cools down until the glue hardens in a few seconds, and in my opinion it is not advisable to come up with additional operations.

The last step is trimming the melamine edging.

Increase

Fig.7.

In this case, cut off the usual kitchen knife, there was simply nothing else at hand. The result is not the best. Good result gives sharp knife with a thick blade, like a shoe knife. The knife should be placed at an angle to the edge of the order of 30-45 degrees from the bottom side. Gives the best result special device for trimming the melamine edge, but I personally did not manage to purchase it.

In conclusion, I will say one more thing. interesting feature. As you can see in the photo, the edge cut has White color that against the background of cherry color does not look very good. You can fix this with a wood stain on water based. You just need to moisten a rag in the stain and wipe the cut with it, remove the excess. For example, for chipboard colors cherry is well suited for mahogany wood stain.