Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils. How to make drainage in the area around the house on clay soils with your own hands. Why you can not do without drainage

In order for people living in the house not to suffer from dampness, and after rain puddles do not accumulate on the site, a drainage system must be built around the house with their own hands. Despite the fact that this work is laborious, it is necessary to carry out it, since high-quality drainage can extend the life of the house. The destructive effect of water on building construction everyone knows, therefore, the foundation of buildings should be protected from moisture as much as possible. Let's figure out how to properly make drainage around the house.

Many homeowners find that waterproofing a foundation is sufficient to keep moisture out. Indeed, on sandy soils, the measures taken may be enough.

Types of drainage

But if the site has loamy soil or alumina, and besides, groundwater is located close to the surface, then waterproofing alone will not be enough. Problems usually begin to appear in the spring, when the snow melts.

And every year they will only get worse. To avoid such troubles, a drainage system around the house is necessary. Of course, you can turn to construction specialists, but this additional expenses. Let's figure out how to make drainage around the house with your own hands.

Before you start building drainage around the house with your own hands, you should get acquainted with what drainage systems can be used. There are three types of drainage systems, these are:

open systems. In this case, open ditches are used, their depth should be 0.5 -0.7 m, and their width should be about 50 cm. The advantage of this option is its simplicity, but it is rarely used, since the view of open ditches does not decorate the landscape.

Advice! Planning drainage around the house open type, it makes sense to purchase special decorative gratings to cover ditches. The presence of such gratings will make the appearance of the system more attractive. In addition, the gratings will prevent large debris from entering the ditches, which can quickly form a blockage.

Backfill systems. In this embodiment, the ditches are covered with a water-permeable material. It could be broken brick, crushed stone of a large fraction, etc. From above, the trenches are covered with previously cut turf. The advantages of this option include the durability of the system (especially if you cover the ditch with geotextile before filling the rubble). The disadvantage of such a system is the lack of the possibility of cleaning during silting.

Advice! A significant disadvantage of backfill drainage system around the house is that it cannot be cleaned. If the drainage backfill is silted, it will have to be completely replaced.

closed systems. This is a network assembled from perforated pipes (most often from polymer materials) laid on gravel. This is the most effective option but also the most labor intensive. Most often, in addition to the deep drainage system, it is necessary to install a surface drainage system to collect water flowing from the roofs through the drainpipe and blind areas. Such a storm can be open or closed. In the latter case, you need to install ordinary (not perforated) pipes, placing them on top of the deep drainage system.

Classical drainage scheme around the house

Consider how the drainage system is arranged according to the classical scheme:

Trenches for laying drains are dug along the perimeter of the building, while a slope of 0.7-1% must be maintained in them. The depth of the trenches depends on the degree of deepening of the foundation, the pipes should be located half a meter below the foundation slabs.
In the lower part of the system, a receiving chamber must be installed - a collector well, that is, a discharge point is organized.

In cases where the required slope cannot be maintained, a drainage pump is included in the circuit.
When arranging drainage, as a rule, perforated pipes made of polymeric materials are used.
Revision wells are an obligatory element of the scheme; they are installed at the corners of the building.

wall drainage

If the house has a basement or ground floor, then the necessary condition is the device wall drainage foundation. As a rule, its construction is carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation.

Advice! Combining the construction of a wall drainage system with the construction of the foundation allows you to avoid unnecessary labor costs, because it will be possible not to dig additional trenches, but to use the foundation pit for laying drains.

As a rule, the calculation of wall drainage consists in determining the length of the trenches and optimal slope pipe locations. It is necessary that the slope of the pipes is at least 1% of their total length.

Advice! If the total length of the trenches is, for example, 25 meters, then the difference between the lowest and highest points of the system should be 25 cm.

We build drainage around the house

Consider how to properly make ring drainage without resorting to the services of specialists.

Instrument preparation

Before you do the drainage with your own hands, you should prepare the following set of tools:

Shovel.
Hacksaw for metal.
hydraulic level.
Rammer manual.
Wheelbarrow for removal of soil and transportation of crushed stone.

Construction of the drainage system

To perform groundwater drainage, trenches will have to be prepared. Execution rules earthworks:

The trenches should be about 20 cm wider than the diameter of the pipe, so that there is 10 cm of free space on each side of it.
The depth of the trenches depends on the depth of the foundation. Pipes should be located about half a meter lower than the lowest point of the foundation.
When preparing trenches, the slope level should be constantly measured.
Sand is poured onto the compacted bottom of the ditches with a layer of about 10 cm and is also well compacted.
Now you need to cover the trenches with geotextiles, and the edges nonwoven fabric should cover the side slopes of the trench and extend beyond the edges of the trench.

The next layer of backfill is expanded clay or gravel. The material is covered with a layer of 20 cm, and at the same time, one must not forget to constantly control the magnitude of the slope.
Now pipes should be laid in the ditches, and revision wells in the corners of the house.

Advice! For the construction of drainage, special perforated pipes are used. But you can also use ordinary pipes designed for the construction of an external sewage pipeline. The holes in them are easy to make with a drill. The main thing is that the holes made are smaller than the size of the gravel used for backfilling.

Gravel should be poured over the pipes, the layer height is 20 cm. The edges of the geotextile material are connected over the gravel. The material will protect the gravel from soil getting into it, that is, silting. Geotextiles must be wrapped so that the sheets form an overlap with a width of at least 30 cm.

Advice! It is important that the geotextile completely covers the surface of the gravel-filled pipe. You can fix it with twine or polypropylene tape.

Since drainage and storm water are usually built at the same time, storm sewer pipes are laid on top of the geotextile.
Used to drain rainwater polymer pipes but without perforations.
The storm sewer pipes are connected to the outlets of the storm water inlets installed under drainpipes roofs
The pipes that make up the drainage and storm sewer, are connected to a drainage well, from which they are discharged into a roadside ditch or into a reservoir nearby.
Then the trench is covered with sand, on the sides of the trench (where there are no pipes), the sand is rammed. The height of the sand layer is 10 cm.

The last layer of backfill is the soil that was excavated during earthworks. From above, the trenches can be covered with pre-cut turf.

drainage well

For drainage well it is most convenient to use ready-made plastic containers. It is possible to build a well from ready-made reinforced concrete rings or perform monolithic structure from concrete and reinforcing mesh.

The top of the well must be covered with a lid made of durable material - plastic or cast iron. Release of sewer before execution backfill compacted, for this purpose it is convenient to use foam.

Drainage system and blind area around the house

A blind area is a strip of waterproof material that runs along the perimeter of the house at an obtuse angle to the walls. The purpose of creating a blind area is to protect the walls and foundation from moisture that falls in the form of precipitation. The blind area can be made from different materials, the most common options are:

The traditional option is cobblestones and clay. This option looks pretty picturesque, but time-consuming to implement.
concrete or asphalt. This is less attractive from an aesthetic point of view, but it is a universal and most common solution.

Profiled PVP membranes. An innovative version of the blind area device. The membrane is placed under the ground, a layer of sand and gravel is poured on top, and the topcoat can be anything. For example, you can add a layer fertile soil and drop off lawn grass. This version of the blind area does not suffer from seasonal soil movements, since the membranes are quite elastic.

For the normal operation of any blind area, it is necessary that the water that enters the roof and the blind area itself is effectively collected and discharged. In other words, in order to protect the house from dampness, it is necessary to provide for a whole range of protective measures, namely, a storm sewer, a blind area around the house and drainage should be built in the house.

So, every homeowner who wants to protect his home from the harmful effects of moisture must take a number of preventive measures. To protect against rain and melt water, storm sewer systems and blind areas are used. And in order to eliminate the harmful effects of groundwater, you should think about how to make drainage around the house. Properly designed drainage of the site will effectively divert water from the foundation, walls and roof of the building, and this is the key to a long service life of the building.

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the closed drainage system is optimal, in the arrangement of which there are many secrets.

Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction fallacy (typical for people without experience, but with money) is the substitution of fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A well-insulated foundation still needs a drainage system! The reason lies in the depths of your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the level of groundwater.

Of no less importance is the relative height of the site on the ground - the smaller it is, the more relevant the drainage device around the house with your own hands. Rainfall and external soil permeability also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account even before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form of basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the stage of earthworks, when digging a foundation pit for a house. All other schemes for the removal of melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a sprawling shirt, although for objectivity we will consider them as well.

How to make drainage around the house - mounting options

There are only three of them, and the first two are carried out with big reservations. They carry a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

Open variant. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, a slit-like trench appears on its own site, which is fatally reflected in the impressiveness appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
Backfill option. The same open ditch, but covered from above with rubble, cinder blocks, rubble and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but technical operation filling system is fundamentally impossible. In case of emergency blockage of the drainage, it will be necessary to open the entire ditch, and it will be necessary to localize the problem area on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if looking for a treasure;
Closed variant. It is carried out by drainage pipes, it is safe and effective, it allows Maintenance and various ways arrangement. We will consider it in more detail: how to make drainage on the site with your own hands through buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

How to make drainage on the site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable ... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite extended - every 15-20 cm, at least 5 mm in size. Manufacturers rely on the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and the asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means that they are fragile, they can be damaged even at the stage of transportation and storage. However, some types of ceramic pipes are good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to increased moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, in place. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
Porous pipes are made of plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not need perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture is collected through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is provided with a significant diameter of pipes;
Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and efficient during long term operation - 90% of drainage work in private homes is carried out by them.

Drainage around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step by step instructions with practical advice how to make drainage around the house, consists of the following steps for its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step by step diagram

Step 1: surveyor

We determine the lower point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled up to it, there will be drain well. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogging of the soil will also not be superfluous. With the flat nature of the site, the presence of tall grass and other external complications, theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - you can’t attribute it to items of constant construction necessity.

Ditches around the house should have a slope of at least 1 centimeter on running meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture will go through our drainage, with fine sand and loam, inner surface pipes will eventually become covered with plaque. So you have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the amount of earthwork, but will serve to the benefit of the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digging

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself should exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. drainage works are carried out at the stage of excavation, because they still dig it out "with a margin" sufficient for laying pipes. For the digging stage of work, a sharp bayonet shovel is needed, and a shovel assistant will not be superfluous - to lift the soil up.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked with a bubble level for compliance with the required slope.

Step 3: backfill and cover

At the bottom of our trench, crushed stone of fractions of 10-15 mm is poured - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is laid on top and rammed. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be precisely maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually poorly recognized, especially in a narrow trench. Again using the level, the uniformity of the slope is important for the long-term gravity flow of water in the drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench with the approach to the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side is covered with geotextile, this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips, we make a wide overlap. From above, we again fall asleep crushed stone, already of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: finally drainage

On the second crushed stone surface are laid drainage pipes. Their joints are isolated special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the backyard.

The pipe line is pulled to the inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water with top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error is easy to correct. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be filled up.

Water has a destructive power, so drainage around the house should be a top priority for the owner of a private structure. If the walls begin to get wet or stains of moldy fungus are visible on them, and puddles appear in the basement, it means that the process of destruction of the building has already begun. This results in horrendous cracks and warps in doors and windows. Create reliable system waterproofing is possible on its own, although this may be sufficient complex process. But the result will be that the drainage around the house and the blind area will successfully complement each other, and also create reliable protection housing from destruction

The Importance of Planning

There are several common reasons why rainwater and meltwater accumulate at the base of buildings. A lot depends on:

As a result, intense flows regularly wash away the foundation. During the thawing of snow deposits, groundwater rises, and the soil begins to subside. You simply cannot do without a good drainage system.

However, before you make drainage around the house, you must consider the following points:

All this preparation will end with a carefully designed scheme of the waterproofing system. It should be noted the places where inspection and storage wells will be located. Calculate the amount of consumables:

This will require various tools. These include several types of shovels: bayonet and shovels. A wheelbarrow will need to take out excess land, and a puncher will make holes. A pickaxe, a clerical knife and other accessories will not interfere with the master.

Step-by-step instructions for constructing a drainage system

There are several options for installing these drainage systems. Some dig ordinary ditches around the perimeter of the building.
Strengthen them with boards or other material. The disadvantage of such structures is that they spoil the entire interior of the site and quickly become unusable.

Storm drains (surface drainage around the house) are mounted at a certain slope to the base. They are made up of pipes top part which is presented in the form of a lattice, detaining debris. Instead, special gutters or trays can be used.
Unnecessary moisture will get into them and drain into the place allotted for it. Such a drain is ideal for regions with a humid climate, where it rains very often and there is a lot of snow.

Backfill waterproofing is recognized as the most durable and reliable. Each type of house foundation has its own scheme for installing such drainage. For example, before the slabs are poured, the drainage device must already be laid. Otherwise, you'll have to fiddle around a bit. This does not apply to strip and pile supports.

Training

It all starts with the excavation of the foundation of the building. Plates must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and building materials. They must dry well. Then process the outer part of this wall in this way:

primed with bitumen-kerosene agent;
apply mastic made on the basis of bitumen;
on a still dry surface, attach a grid for putty (division of 2 mm);
apply the next layer of coating material 24 hours after the previous one has dried.

In conclusion, it is recommended to clean up the bumps with sandpaper so that the surface becomes smooth. When everything is prepared, you can proceed to the main process.

trench dimensions

A pre-designed site plan, even the most primitive one, will help to correctly mark the territory and use material economically. The foundation drainage device includes a system of properly dug trenches and securely laid pipes. Trenches must meet the following parameters:

distance from foundation less than a meter or 1.5 m;
the width is calculated as follows: 20 cm are added to the diameter of the pipe;
depth 50 cm below the laying of the foundation of the building;
the slope increases towards the place of liquid collection (1 cm every meter).

Plastic, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes are successfully used in the installation of drainage systems. Manufacturers produce polymer options these items, which are covered with a special shell. This non-woven filter cloth protects containers from the formation of sludge.

To do desired slope, it is necessary to add sand. After that special device it is worth tamping the dug ditch and filling it with a 10 cm layer sand mixture. Compact the bottom again, checking the level of inclination.

Pipeline laying

When the trenches are ready, they need to be tightly covered with geotextile material. Each side cut should protrude 30 cm or more, depending on the width of the trench. Pour large-caliber crushed stone / gravel onto the canvas, adjusting it to the slope of the ditch. Laying a pipeline drainage device around the house is as follows:

To prevent leaks at the junction of pipes, winding is used. Several layers of tape for insulation - the key to the tightness of the system.

All these plastic channels must be connected to the main pipe, which removes moisture to the water inlets. Then use river sand to fill the volume of the trenches. Pour the remaining soil over it until a good tubercle forms. Under influence external factors the earth will still sag. As a result, such an embankment will be equal to the horizon and without the formation of a depression.

During these works, you need to constantly check the selected slope. To do this, you can stretch a cord or rope along the house in advance, which will serve as a level.

Intakes/wells

To prevent water from accumulating in the drainage under the house, it should be removed. This can be done using special wells. Moreover, they are needed to systematically clean the structure and regularly service the system. In these wells, which must be removed from the building at a distance of 5 m, all excess moisture. They are installed below the sewer pipe (by 1 m), but not at the same level with groundwater.
Modern projects show that there should be four such water inlets on the site, at each corner of the task.

According to the standards, for drainage systems there are 4 observation type wells, and two - water collection. One is attached to the storm sewer.

The well located at the lowest point will be deeper than all the others. Its diameter depends on the size of the container installed in it:

plastic tank;
welded structures;
reinforced concrete rings;
casting structures.

Cover the bottom of the pit with geotextile material, and then attach the container to the ground so that it does not move in case of landslides. Fill voids with gravel mixed with earth.

In some cases, do-it-yourself drainage around the house requires additional costs. The reception point can be placed an order of magnitude higher than the sewers, then you need pumping unit. Sometimes the pipeline does not lie deep enough, so you will need to lay a heating cable.

All these time-consuming and costly procedures are worth it. Indeed, in this way the owner will be able to protect the monastery from the harmful effects of moisture. Only high-quality drainage around the house contributes to this. It is installed in several ways. Each master decides for himself which one to choose.

Video about drainage systems around the house

Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can drain the area on clay soils with your own hands.

Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.

If on peat soil or clay does not equip a drain or drainage system, then a little rain is enough for the plot of a country house or cottage to turn into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land long time, in addition, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.

Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.

As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:

determine the structure of the soil;
find out what is causing the high humidity.

According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth will be located various elements systems drainage type. After that, construction can begin.

Types of drainage systems

For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.

Surface type drainage systems

This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. You can put them on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of the building, near pavement or around the lawn.

Gutters are laid in the channel, they can be covered from above protective grille.

Deep drainage systems

If on clay soil it is necessary to divert a large volume of water, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.

Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.

How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.

The figure indicates:

A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20cm);
B - backfill soil (20cm);
C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
E - geotextile coating;
F - "pillow" of sand;
G - soil.

Formation drainage systems

This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the building (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.

It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of the building under which it is located.

List of tools and materials

To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:

shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
level (to check the slope);
stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
hacksaw for cutting pipes;
marking cord.

From materials for surface systems you will need:

geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
cement.

If you plan to do deep system, additionally, special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for their connection, will be required.

Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden

If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).

Self-creation of a surface system

The sequence of actions is as follows:

trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. At the same time, a slope towards the disposal site should be observed. drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
at the bottom of the trenches, a “cushion” is made of sand, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.

If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the gravel is poured cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements are installed (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.). From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.

Self-creation of a deep system

The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.

The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.

It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.

At the next stage, perforated plastic pipes. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.

Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.

At the last stage, the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled to the same level as the soil.

Photo: the central highway of the deep drainage system

As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.

The removal of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life and capital building, and dacha building. A simple drainage system in the device will save underground concrete structures from gradual erosion, and cellars from flooding. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?

A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build efficiently the current system collection and withdrawal natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulations and the real experience of builders of low-rise buildings.

We will talk in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their device, the specifics of operation. We will give arguments in favor of choosing a particular type of drainage. brought to your attention useful information supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.

When designing a drainage system, first of all, determine the goals that are planned to be achieved. They may consist in draining the entire site, in protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.

From existing systems drainage can be divided into two main types - open and deep (closed). The first one can be used for needs Agriculture, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage It is used to drain water in summer cottages and cottage areas, to protect buildings from the negative effects of high groundwater levels.

The organization of the drainage system is necessary with a high groundwater table, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage to protect against the aggression of underground water concrete foundation and reduce the hydraulic load

Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer branches intended for disposal. atmospheric water. Provided that they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.

Image gallery

#1: Open Drainage Device

Open drainage is the simplest and most economical way to drain water, which can be used under the following conditions:

the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
the site is located in a lowland, into which flows naturally rainwater during a period of abundant fallout;
there is no natural slope in the relief of the site, which ensures the movement of excess water towards the street.

Open drainage is arranged in areas with a high GWL, the mark of which is most often due to the location of the land allotment in a lowland or the clay composition of soils that do not pass or very weakly pass water into the underlying layers.

The drainage system, designed to drain excess groundwater, works great in tandem with a storm drain, the work of which is to collect and remove precipitation (+)

Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie the work and place the storm water inlet under the gutters to the blind area.

Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require a diagram. It is a trench 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are at an angle of 30 °. They encircle the territory along the perimeter and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm sewer.

Areas with a slope towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, in front of the house, water is pulled out across the slope. gutter, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the runoff towards the street, into a ditch.

If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse gutter is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.

The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need for regular cleaning of the gutters from silt and dirt, which periodically accumulates in them. This type of drainage is not recommended for pavement, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the web

The length of the lines for water flow, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.

Drainage ditches can be reinforced against erosion with reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed bottom

If the site is considered more or less even, and its level of waterlogging is not too high, then the simplest drainage system can be dispensed with.

Along the foundation of the fence, at the lowest point of the site, they dig a ditch with a width of 0.5 m, a length of 2-3 m and a depth of 1 m. Such a drainage system, although it will protect against a high groundwater level, and perfectly cope with precipitation.

So that the edges of the ditch do not collapse, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. Excavated soil is used for filling low-lying places in the territory

Over time, this simple drainage system may become inoperable due to gradual siltation. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geotextile. It is laid on the ground, after backfilling the ditches are overlapped with it drainage layer. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.

#2: Building an Efficient Stormwater Drain

Storm sewerage is necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water falling in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear catchment devices.

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The first type of water collectors is installed under organized risers. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.

Water entering the sump moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common well-water collector, or to a collector well, from which it moves to a centralized sewer network or gutter.

The storm water inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. Devices are made from durable plastic or cast iron (+)

Elements storm system with point water collectors are also drains, drains, dampers. Some manufacturers provide for the possibility of connecting storm water inlets with roof drains, as well as with underground drainage systems.

In addition, ready-made production models provide for the presence of sand traps and waste bins, which simplify the maintenance of the system.

Device with installed decorative grille should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the track, the ground

This is a system of gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where the accumulation of water is most likely, but highly undesirable.

For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it

The collector well in the example is designed to partially discharge the collected water into the underlying soil layers and to partially drain the excess outside the site into a public sewer. Drains from a septic tank, storm water and drainage will be connected to it. To drain excess water, a sewer pipe located below all will be installed.

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#5: Organization of combined systems

On the site near the house, you can also organize a combined drainage system. For example, runoff from drainage and stormwater can accumulate in the same collector well. In this case, the collector for collecting wastewater must be constructed taking into account the load from both systems. In addition, storm sewers may include point and linear water collectors.

With this scheme, storm water and drainage are laid independently of each other (in parallel). Only a collector collecting wastewater from both systems can be common

It must be remembered that the mistakes made in mixed type drainage, can even lead to a rise in groundwater levels, flooding of basements, cellars. The main disadvantage is the drainage of water from drainage system into underground drainage.

When these two systems are combined, water from the roof enters the drains and seeps into the ground. This is especially active during strong and prolonged precipitation. As a result, water, instead of leaving the system, seeps into the soil and saturates it with moisture.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1 Scheme surface drainage and its installation:

Video #2 Do-it-yourself trench drainage system around the house:

Video #3 The nuances of designing and building a drainage system:

When designing a drainage system around a private building, it is highly desirable to first consult a hydraulic engineer. Failure to comply with the rules and conditions of dewatering can lead to subsidence of the soil, houses, roads.

This is especially important to consider when arranging deep drainage. Therefore, it is better to draw up a drainage scheme around the house even at the planning stage, then all the nuances of construction and drainage will be taken into account in one project.

Those wishing to talk about their own experience in the drainage device are welcome to post comments. You can write them in the block below. Here you can ask questions and publish photos on the topic of the article.

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