Selection and organization of installation of the drainage system. Do-it-yourself installation of a gutter system Installation of long hooks of a gutter system

For an experienced roofer, installing a modern gutter system is not difficult, but an inexperienced person may not be aware of some of the nuances that in the future lead to serious problems. Of which the most common are deformation, bending of the gutter, leakage and destruction of the facade from constant moisture.

Moreover, only one small installation error can serve as the cause of all this. And therefore, how to fix the gutter so that it has served faithfully for more than one year, we will tell you now in the most detailed details.

How to choose the right mount?

In total, to fix the drain, you will need the following fasteners:

• brackets on which you will attach the gutters. It will not be difficult for you to choose a suitable mount, based on the shape and dimensions of the purchased gutters.
• Clamps – special devices, which allow you to attach drain pipes to the wall. Such fastening is also selected depending on the type and size of the drain pipes. Also decide on the material for making the clamps: if it is plastic, then it has two attachment points, while metal ones have one, long hardware.

On sale you will find hooks of two types:

• Long ones are attached to the crate, to the rafter legs.
• Short ones - to the frontal board, according to the original plan or due to the fact that the roof has already been installed.

The distance between the hooks should ideally be about 50 cm, maximum - 60 cm. If you use long hook holders, it is better to screw them through the crate directly to the rafters, then the drainage system itself will be more durable.

At the end of the installation, both long and short hooks from above must be covered with a cornice strip.

Of course, according to all instructions, long hooks must be fastened under the roofing directly to the crate. But often there are situations that it’s not easy to remove the old roofing just like that, just like lifting it up.

For example, it is old, so such hooks are often screwed even onto the cornice filing. Despite all the illogicality of this method, in practice it often turns out to be rational and sometimes the only possible one.

Basically, according to the rules, metal hooks are used for a metal drain, and plastic - for plastic. Today, copper hooks are rarely but still used:

How to properly position the brackets?

At this stage, you will have a completely expected question: how are the gutters attached to the roof itself? Hooks for them are mounted to the frontal board, windshield, to the cornice overhang or directly on rafter legs.

The mount is installed on the rafter legs when there is no frontal board as such, in principle, or it is important to leave it untouched for the sake of a certain aesthetic effect. But, if the roof is already ready, then the only rational option- this is the fastening of fasteners to the frontal board:

Sometimes fasteners for the drainage system have to be installed directly to the roof sheathing. For this purpose, special elongated clamps are used, which are fixed at two points. Brackets are attached to the rafters (through the crate) only pre-bent.

Often, home craftsmen try to save money and put the brackets too far apart, although the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 60 meters. If this rule is violated, over time, the gutters are deformed and gradually damaged under the pressure of the weight of water, ice and snow.

It is also important to be careful with the location of the brackets so that they are not too low or too high relative to the edge of the roof. If the hooks are lower than necessary, rainwater from them it will be bad to fall into the gutter, it will become splashed and streaks will go on the facade.

Sometimes such an installation error even leads to breakage and breakage of the fastener itself. And rightly so, if the gutter protrudes slightly beyond the edge, at least half of its width. If the gutter is installed too high, then the mechanical pressure on it and its fastenings will be many times greater than the norm, and the gutter system itself will have to withstand a load of falling snow.

At the end of the installation of the fastener, it is important to correctly install and align each hook:

Also keep in mind that when installing metal tiles, an anti-condensation film with an allowance is also used:

How to fix the gutter yourself?

When installing any gutter system, it is extremely important to take into account the thermal movement of the gutter and its structural elements, which, depending on the material of manufacture, work differently in tension and contraction.

According to the rules, the only movable element of this kind should be a hinged complaint, which is mounted without additional gluing - only on a latch. And modern manufacturers take care of this by making a special, so-called expansion mark inside the gutter, which helps to assemble in accordance with the air temperature that exists at the time of installation.

Here's how to properly mount the gutter directly on the eaves:

How to fix modern plastic gutters?

In total, you will need the following tools for installing a plastic drain: a cord, a hacksaw or a grinder, a screwdriver or a screwdriver, a puncher, a pencil, a tape measure, a ladder, a hook bender or a vice.

Let's look at an example of how to properly install a plastic gutter system. In total, it will be enough for you to spend about a day for this lesson. The main thing is to correctly calculate the slope of the gutter towards the funnel, so that the water flows easily and the melted ice quickly falls down. According to building codes, for each running meter it is desirable to make a 1 cm slope. Then follow these instructions:

• Step 1. So, we mark the hooks: lay them out on flat surface close to each other.
• Step 2. Now on the hook where the gutter will be mounted, make notches as many centimeters as necessary to create a slope, and mark this place with a pencil.
• Step 3 Attach a ruler and draw a line from the first mark to the last. The line will not turn out to be horizontal, as you understand, and it is along this line that you will mount the brackets.
• Step 4. Next, if you have metal hooks, then you will need a special hook bender, if not, then a small vise. They should be clamped along the line and bent towards you.

At this stage, we install all the hooks, while checking the bend angle. Please note that the angle of bend for all hooks should be the same, and only the place of bend along the line is different.

So, step by step:

• Step 1. Take the hook with the smallest bend and screw it to the eaves. You should get the highest side of the complaint attachment and the lowest.
• Step 2. Make sure that the edge of the roof is exactly in the middle of the hook. This is important so that the snow moving down in winter does not damage the gutter and rainwater falls exactly into the funnel.
• Step 3. Now pull the lacing or strong thread between the first and last hook, and attach all the remaining hooks clearly along this line. The distance between the hooks should be between 50 cm and 65 cm.
• Step 4. Now we take the gutters and mount them. Please note that modern drainage systems have special strips along the edges of the complaints that simply snap into place, and a well-thought-out rubber gasket protects them from leaks. It is usually black and hard to miss.
• Step 5. Now install the gutter cap. It should be placed first with inside hook and press on its outside.

It is important that the mounted gutter is perpendicular to the ground:

We continue with the installation of the drain:

• Step 1. In the next step, measure the distance from the funnel to the gutter connector, and at the same time keep in mind that during the installation process it will go into the funnel and connector up to 7 centimeters.
• Step 2 Install the funnel so that it is 20-30 cm from the edge of the roof.
• STEP 3. Cut off another piece of complaint. It is most convenient to cut a plastic gutter with a regular hacksaw with a fine tooth, or with a grinder with a thin circle for metal.
• Step 4. Now we pick up a funnel. Please note that it has special sides - these are the limiters to which you need to insert the gutter.
• Step 5. We mount the funnel and gutters.
• Step 6. Now we move on to installing the knees. The knees need to be installed on drainer funnel and turn towards the wall.
• Step 7. After that, we take the second knee, and measure the distance between them. The second knee must be secured with a clamp.
• Step 8. The next step is to measure the distance to the knee of the drain. It will be convenient to fix the clamp to the wall using self-tapping screws with press washer in 30 mm or dowels, if you have brick house.

The following step-by-step photo illustration will help you consider the process in more detail:

How to fix metal gutters?

Modern metal gutters do not always have mechanical latches, and therefore their parts must be joined by cold welding or using special glue:

Let's look at the technology of fastening a metal drain in more detail. So, all the parts necessary for assembling such a system are manufactured with high precision even at the factory, thanks to which the elements are assembled in single system you can independently and without much straining:

• Step 1. The first step is to take the exact dimensions and make a mounting scheme for the future drain to accurately calculate the number of pipes with fasteners, gutters and brackets, gutter plugs, funnels and their connectors. And get it all from a quality manufacturer.
• Step 2. To set the correct slope of the gutter (5.0-10.0 mm is enough), fix the first and last brackets, and then stretch the cord between them.
  Step 3. Now let's move on to the installation itself. First, we install gutters with the obligatory maintenance of the desired slope along the roof slope. Install the fixing brackets along the perimeter of the roof at a distance of 0.50 m.
• Step 4. Several parts of a metal gutter in one length will be easier for you to connect on the ground using rivets and special sealant. Those ends of the gutters that will not drain water, close them hermetically with plugs.
• Step 5. Next, install the downpipes, which should be fixed in necessary places on the walls. Connect the sections of pipes together with clamps.
• Step 6. Check the verticality of the pipes with a plumb line.
  metal roof drains.
• Step 7 Now connect the gutters to the pipes and funnels.
• Step 8. And finally, install the lower drain elbows in the desired direction.

Fashionable copper gutters are fixed according to the same principle as ordinary steel ones:

But the hardest part is installing the drain. complex shape:

Be sure to check the installed drain for reliability and leaks, simply pouring water into it from garden hose:

How to install a heating cable in the drain?

Just to save installed drain from breaking ice with the very first cold weather, today they are installing cable system heating. She represents electrical cable, which is stretched around the entire perimeter of the roof. It works in temperature conditions from 0 to minus 15 degrees, and even in the presence of ice and water on the roof.

Such cables are equipped with a temperature main official sensor. They are installed along the edges of the roof with south side, and such sensors regulate the on-off of the cable system.

So, any gutter is always subjected to constant loads during its service. Especially if in your area it rains, snows quite often and there are strong winds. In addition, ultraviolet radiation and wind-blown debris have a devastating effect on the drain. And therefore, even a well-installed gutter system always needs to be looked after!

The ideal option is when the calculation of the drainage system is thought out at the drafting stage common project: this will make it possible to comply with the technical regulations, according to which the installation of gutters is carried out before laying roofing material. However, it often happens that this procedure is carried out already on finished roof, which is associated with a number of difficulties.

In what situations the drain is attached only to the frontal board

Mounting the hooks of the drainage system only on the frontal board is possible in cases where ventilation of the under-roof space is carried out using special holes in the filing of the overhangs - the so-called. "perforated soffits". This is the simplest and most inexpensive type of ventilation, but its efficiency leaves much to be desired.

For a more complete flow of air, a gap under the crate is used. This implies a lower location of the frontal board and fixing the brackets exclusively on the crate. The disadvantage of this method is the risk of board collapse under snow load. The decision on the appropriateness of one or another approach to the installation of gutters is made by the owner of the house.

Another reason to install gutter hooks on the frontal board - installation of drainage structures after the completion of the main construction works. A common situation when buying unfinished house with expensive roofing: in order not to start a laborious procedure for dismantling it, it is easier to attach the gutters to the frontal board. The same algorithm of actions is selected when replacing the drainage system.

The third reason due to which the brackets can only be installed on the surface of the frontal board is the use of anti-condensation waterproofing film. As the installation rules say, it must necessarily go to the overhang of the cornice, which implies the possibility of installing gutters exclusively on the frontal board.

Common ways to install a drainage system

Installation instructions for the gutter system involve the use of special mounting hooks. According to building codes, they can be installed on solid crate (soft roof), on the surface of the rafters or on the outside of the windboard.

There are seven main ways to install a gutter:

1. To the rafters. Some beginners count on being able to lift a couple of sheets of roofing material to secure the hooks to the batten after they're done. roofing works. However, as practice shows, it is not so easy to do this, because you have to dismantle several rows roofing screws. As a result, ugly holes remain in the places where they were installed, which will need to be covered with patches.
   To get out of the situation, the lining of the boards on the roofing material is used, which avoids its deformation when removing and unscrewing the screws. Concerning slate roofs, then special wooden inserts directly into the waves of the material: they are machined in advance, exactly according to the profile. In this case, a through fastening of the drain through a slate sheet and a wooden insert is used.
2. On the front board. The simplest method of mounting mounting brackets to an already completed roof is to install them on the surface of the windboard. At the same time, the frontal board itself is often designed as a separate decorative element. metal roofs best equipped with steel short hooks, mounted on metal strips. If we are talking about a light gutter made of plastic, then an ordinary wooden windboard can serve as the basis for fixing it.
3. With the help of crutches. There are situations when the frontal board is completely absent. The way out of this state of affairs can be the installation of special crutches made of metal or wood into the wall. They will act as a mounting base for the gutters, which in this case are mounted on studs or beams.
4. Support brackets. Small adjoining buildings are allowed to be equipped with brackets on supports or other devices.
5. Stealth brackets. Fasteners are offered for sale, which are almost invisible after installation. It's all about the direction of fixation: in this case, it is carried out from above. The installation step of such structures should not exceed 40-70 cm, in order to avoid deformation under the influence of snow and ice loads. If the brackets provide for fastening to the crate or top of the rafters, they are bent to the shape of the roof slope.
6. Adjustable fasteners. This is innovative development, which allows, by tightening the screws, to adjust and adjust the brackets for a particular angle of inclination of the roof. This will eliminate the need to check the bend radius for each individual fastener. Such a product consists of two main moving parts: they are positioned relative to each other, depending on the required fixation height.
7. Installation directly on the surface of the roofing material. On sale are expensive fastening structures that allow the installation of gutters in the most difficult situations when a brittle or corrugated coating is applied. It is important to understand that this approach to installation is only allowed to be taken in areas with a low level of rainfall.

As a result, we can say that the degree of reliability of fastening directly depends on the correct installation of the gutter. It should be understood that the drain is not designed to effectively withstand the snow load: this is the task of snow retainers and special heating cables.

Closer consideration requires the technology of installing the gutter hooks of the gutter system on the finished roof.

Calculation of the required number of hooks, gutters, pipes

To calculate the required number gutter elements the formula is used (B + H / 2) x C

Explanation of designations:

• B is the horizontal distance between the overhang and the ridge.
• H is the height.
• C is the length of the roof.

All parameters are indicated in meters.

The order of installation of drainage elements on the surface of the windboard:

1. On the surface of a previously mounted board, a horizontal line is marked at the most high section gutters. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser level.
2. The resulting marking is transferred to the entire length of the gutter. In this case, a slope of 3-5 mm per linear meter of the drain should be taken into account.
3. Next, the numbering of all fastening hooks is carried out. When marking, it is important not to forget the slope of the gutter. To change the radius of the hooks, a special hook bender is used.
4. The first step is to mount the first and last hooks. Next, a cord should be pulled between them: it should be at the very bottom of the gutter. Using the resulting guide, it is quite simple to install the rest of the fasteners.
5. When determining the location of the funnels at the ends of the gutters, their size is taken into account: the funnel must be attached to the surface of the board, and circle its outline with a pencil. A 45 mm edging is left between the edge of the contour and its center. To cut a hole, use a regular hacksaw or special scissors for metal.
6. Finished frames bend outward, inserting the grooves into each other. It is necessary to observe the correctness of putting on the front parts of the gutter: in this case, the spout should be in the curl itself.

Correct positioning of gutters and funnels

The gutter is mounted with the following sequence:

• First you need to install a funnel and nearby gutters.
• The edges of the gutters are fixed with self-tapping screws to the surface of the windboard.
• The fastening of the funnel and the gutter continues until their profiles completely match.
• You should carefully check the degree of slope and the location of the fasteners.
• Next, the profile of the gutters is installed on the brackets, followed by docking. To close the empty ends, special plugs are included in the package.
• Funnels and pipes in the wall are connected with bends.
• After that, you need to install the pipe bracket.
• At the end, the marking of the direction of installation of the drain is carried out, for the installation of vertical parts of the structure.

The connection of modern metal drains occurs with the help of sealing clamps. For connection plastic gutters can use latches on clamps, rubber seals and cold welding. During these procedures, it is important not to forget about linear expansion compensation.

You can also use special grids for the drainage system to clean the flowing water from various debris that falls on the roof surface from nearby trees (branches, leaves, needles). In the event of blockages, drainpipes begin to clog, which in winter time fraught with freezing of water inside the drains, with the threat of their rupture.

How to install and fix downpipes - instructions

First of all, you need to decide on which wall it is better to install them, and what method of fastening will be optimal in this case:

• On the surface of three-layer walls, only the upper front layer can be used for fixing brackets. With its thickness of 90 mm, the anchor is set to a depth of 60 mm. A layer thickness of 120 mm will require a deepening of 80-90 mm.
• Drilling of double-layer walls is recommended to be carried out upon completion of its finishing: the depth of the holes is 60-90 mm. When immersing the dowel, it must enter the second layer of insulation, after which it is allowed to screw the fastener.
• On a single-layer wall, the bracket is fastened with screws or expansion dowels, with an immersion depth of more than 60 mm.
• In the case of wooden frame walls the holder should be fixed with self-tapping screws. For fixation in this case, it is convenient to use a sharp rod of great length.

It is best if the installation of vertical fasteners of the drainage system is carried out during the construction of walls.

Features of mounting pipes to the wall

If installation is carried out on finished walls, the following rules must be observed:

1. Mounting downpipes carried out only from below.
2. Mounting holes should be small in diameter.
3. The drain pipe and the wall surface must be separated by a certain distance.
4. To protect the foundation from water flowing under it, a cut drain elbow is installed below.

Brick walls are equipped with plastic dowels, into which screws fastened with a clamp are screwed. Mounting on wooden walls is more convenient with special rods or plates with self-tapping screws.

How a vertical gutter system is attached:

1. Couplings are used to connect pipes.
2. When the lower tube is inserted, a gap is left.
3. Mounting of the holder with a trunk is made under the coupling. Tees are mounted in the same way.
4. At the end of the procedure, the lower outlet and the pipe are fixed.

Middle from eaves overhang it is desirable to place the corner pipe at a distance of 150 mm from the corner of the building.

The purpose of the roof over the house does not need to be explained. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the slopes of the roof, water inevitably falls on the walls and foundation. As a result, they break down very quickly. load-bearing elements building structures.

The destructive effect of water can be avoided by installing a roof drainage system. Before we start the master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage system has two signs of classification, which determine the technology of its installation:

1. According to the method of manufacture - home-made, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade gutter from the roof. Facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual gutter with your own hands speak in favor of this system. Manufacturing homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted according to a user-friendly scheme. The undoubted disadvantage is the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly rots. Among the conditional shortcomings are the difficulty of docking individual elements and a mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method involves maintaining all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can dock without problems various elements from different deliveries of the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the installation method, an adhesive system is distinguished (installation takes place using glue) and glueless (installation on sealing rubber bands).

Advantages of plastic gutters:

• immunity to ultraviolet. High-quality plastic drainage system will not burn out during the entire period of operation;

• not subject to corrosion;

• the adhesive system is maintenance-free, since the “ cold welding» during which the connection of elements occurs at the molecular level;

• strength;

• light weight;

• worker temperature regime-40°С +70°С;

• ease of installation;

• the presence of different colors;

• a wide variety of components allows you to create a gutter system of the desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

• plastic can break mechanical impact. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed on high-rise buildings. The plastic drainage system is mounted only on a low-rise private house;

• repair failure. A destroyed element cannot be restored;

• a plastic drainage system with sealing rubber bands requires periodic replacement of seals, which entails disassembly / assembly of elements;

• high coefficient of linear expansion.

Drainage system from metal profile has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with polymer coated(painted). The main difference between them is the cost and duration of operation. Appearance presented in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

• strength;

• reliability;

• withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;

• do not support combustion;

• operating temperature -60°С +130°С;

• dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

• high price;

• significant weight of the entire system;

• complexity of installation;

• small selection of colors;

• the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (an exception is a copper drainage system);

• a small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90°.

Which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, it is difficult to answer unambiguously, it all depends on the specific operating conditions and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the position of this classification, we will consider how to properly mount the drainage system with our own hands.

Installation of a drainage system - instructions

Like any building process, the technology of installing gutters includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems, depending on their bandwidth. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and gutter. Visual system round section 125/100 and square section- on the picture.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own dimensions of gutters, pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to dock systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is necessary so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

Choosing a drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

• get acquainted with the maximum level of precipitation in your area;

• calculate the area of ​​​​the slope (S). Not all, but the largest in size. It is its size that will determine the choice of gutter

S \u003d (A + B / 2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs(the slope angle does not exceed 10°) the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

After the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or diagrams of planes with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then the installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

We will illustrate, using the example of a house, how to calculate the amount of materials for installing a drainage system.

Gutter gutter - semicircular (semicircular section) and rectangular (rectangular section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is fixed with the help of hooks and brackets, which are installed in steps of 60-90 cm, ensuring that the slope of the gutter is at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the base of the roof. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Gutter dimensions - sold by the piece in 3 and 4 m.p.

For a house the size of our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meters - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the nearest whole gutter length. The fewer connections, the easier, more reliable and cheaper the installation will end up.

• Gutter angles (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Mounting method: mounted on external and inside corners roofs.

We will need 4 outside corners and 2 inside corners, all 90 degrees.

If a house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. A variety of angles can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves at the desired angle. Parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

• Gutter funnels, connectors, gutter plugs.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. Connectors can be - 5 or 17. Depending on the features of the installation of a particular system. In most drainage systems, corners are fastened directly to the gutter. But in some - with the use of a connector.

In drainage systems where installation is carried out with the use of glue, conventional connectors and expansion joints should be used.

Compensatory is installed with a roof length of more than 8 r.m. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. Such a connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the gutter during heating / cooling. For our example, 4 regular connectors and one compensating one would be required.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 m.p. gutters. If the length of the wall is longer - you need to put two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 m.p.

• Gutter hooks.

Hooks can be long or short. The first ones are designed to hang the gutter on the rafters and are attached before the installation of the roofing material. The second (short) ones are used for attaching the gutter to the frontal board, respectively, it is possible to install it on a finished roof, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. At the same time, installation is mandatory near corners, funnels, plugs and at junctions. In our example - 68 hooks.

• Downspouts (for vertical drain), pipe fittings/brackets.

The pipe can be round and rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed to fix the pipe to the wall. According to the installation method, they distinguish between “on a stone” (for fixing on a brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixing with hardware) and “on a tree” (for fixing on wooden walls(beam, log, OSB). fixing with screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation sites. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which the installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 m. You need to round up, since the joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if you have a house height of 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or for other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation near the knees is mandatory.

• Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the design of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) we need two universal elbows (8 in total) and one drain (4 in total).

Distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be taken into account when calculating.

Installation of a drainage system made of plastic (PVC)

1. Installation of drain funnels (roofing, storm, water intake) on the roof.

The gutter hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination with respect to the funnel is 2° or 3-4 mm. by 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope with the help of a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more advisable to install the gutter in the following ways:

• Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the ramp.
• Double slope: "from the middle" or "towards the middle."

In the first case, the middle gutter is at the highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, two extreme gutters are at the highest point and the water moves to a funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Mounting of the common and compensatory gutter connector (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. Equal distance from them.

4. Cut the gutter into blanks of the desired length. It is desirable to clean the place of the cut.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is laid on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled in the right place of the gutter using a crown.

Some manufacturers label funnels in such a way as to simplify installation. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature overboard, the chute is set at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements that does not use adhesive when installing.

If provided, at the junction of the gutter and funnel, a sealing gum is installed.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be smeared with glue or sealed with an elastic band.

The compensation connector is mounted without the use of glue.

Nuance. In order for the water to flow in a given direction, it is better to make a “teardrop” at the end of the drain pipe.

7. Installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out according to the same scheme.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or sealing rubber bands.

8. Fastening clamps and installation of downpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

The installation of the pipe begins with the installation of the elbow (if necessary) or the pipe in the funnel.

Glue or rubber compressor required.

Nuance. The lower pipe is inserted into the upper one with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall with a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is mounted.

The ebb must be mounted so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, a low tide diverts water into a canal drainage system or directly into a drainage well.

Installation of a plastic gutter system - video

Installation of a metal drainage system

Step-by-step guide, instructions for installing gutters for a roof made of metal profiles with your own hands.

1. Installation of two extreme brackets.

They can be installed on truss system or at cornice plank(frontal).

Advice. For a normal outflow of water from the roof, the angle of inclination of the gutter towards the funnel should be 3-4 mm per 1.m.

The bracket is mounted on three self-tapping screws.

With a wall length of more than 10 m, a simple (straight) slope is performed. If the length is more than 10 m - double.

2. Open the gutters.

The place of the saw is cleaned with a file.

Advice. The movement of the saw is carried out in the direction "away from you".

3. Cutting a hole for the funnel.

Advice. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the funnel.

1. Weir systems.

The main task of the drainage system is providing controlled runoff of precipitation and its removal to the ground or to the storm sewer system. Two size lines (125x90 and 150x100) allow the use of this drainage system in various areas of construction. For low-rise buildings, it is recommended to use a 125x90 gutter. Forlarge cottage construction, as well as for industrial and civil facilities, it is rationalthe use of a drain with a size of 150x100. The presented water collection systems are produced according to the leading European technologies.logic and comply with all European standards. All elements of the system are designed to maximize easy installation and durability. The complete set of each drain is calculated individually.

Data drainage systems made of cold-rolled, hot-dip galvanized steel with double-sided coating based on polyurethane. Modern polyurethane metal coating is characterized by increased resistance to impact.tvyu ultraviolet, chemical substances and provides high resistance to corrosion and mechanical damage.Thus, the presented products with a double-sided polyurethane coating have a number of advantages overgalvanized (unreliable and aesthetically repulsive) and copper (requiring professional installation and very expensive) drains. This is perfect combination prices and quality.

2. Tool for installing the drainage system.

Electric drill, screwdriver and self-tapping screws, metal shears, metal saw, riveted machine and rivets, bits and nozzles, wooden or rubber mallet, water level, twine, marking pencil, tape measure, sealant with a gun.

3. Calculation of the drainage system.

1. Determine the catchment area (vertical projection of the slope onto the ground) by multiplying the length of the projection by its width.

2. Select the dimensions of pipes and gutters according to the table.

3. Determine the number of drainpipes. For every 10 meters of slope, there should be one downpipe. Maximum allowable length slope 12 meters. Examples of the location of downpipes on a gable and on a hiphowling roofs are shown in the figure.

A distinctive feature of waterWaste systems GrandLine - optimal jelly depth ratioba and diameter of the drainpipewould. With a pipe diameter of 90mm gutter depth is 83mm,width is 125mm. sameforehead with increased depth profile cross section implies much large area catchment.

So undeniable advantage of this waterdrain is a big prostarting capacity in comparisonnyu with other analogues.

4. Installation of gutter holders.

	Installation of long hooks is carried out on the rafters or on the cornice board before laying the cut.good material. If the hooks are installed after complete device roofing,it is necessary to use compact or short hooks for fastening to the frontal board, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
	Long hooks provide greater reliability and strength of the gutter system.themes. Both those and other gutter hooks should be installed in increments of 600-900mm, if the pitch iswider than the specified limits - the system may not withstand the snow load in winter. IfThe number of hooks is calculated as follows: n=L/B, where L is the distance between the lanethe last and the last hook, B is the allowable distance between the hooks. When calculating the amounthooks, additional hooks must be taken into account, which must be installed at the ends gutters, as well as on both sides at the junction of the gutters and the junction of the gutters with the corners.
	For better flow water along the gutter towards the funnel, it is necessary to ensure the slope of the gutter not less than 5 mm per linear meter. To do this, the hooks are installed with a vertical offsetwe eat, calculated as follows: h = 0.005xL, where L is equal to the distance between the laneswith the last and last hook. Thus the vertical offset between the first and lasthook on a slope at maximum length gutter 10m will be 5cm. Therefore, beforeinstallation, the hooks must be marked taking into account the vertical displacement, then fastened the first and last hook and pull the cord between them and mount the remaining hooks along it. Before installing the hooks, make sure that the cornice is horizontal, if it is not strictlyhorizontal, it is imperative to take this circumstance into account when marking the hooks.

5. Installation of gutter funnels.

Mark the intended locations for the funnels and cut into the gutter with a hacksaw or with metal shears V-shaped hole 100-110mm wide - for drain125x90, or 120-130mm for a drain 150x100. For effective work V-shaped systems the hole should be as large as possible. Distance from top edgethe forehead to the cutout should be at least 15mm. Recommended distance between the end of the chuteba and funnel is 150mm. Put the funnel on the gutter, securing the rolled sidenoah in the castle on outside gutter, and then fold the funnel tabs into the gutter.

6. Installing the gutter plugs .

Plugs are installed on the ends of the gutter that do not fit with other elements. It's tiredscrew a plug onto the end of the gutter, seal the joint silicone sealant, in case notuse rivets if necessary. For a tighter connection, use a rubber band. mallet. One ear of the plug covers the curl of the gutter, and the second close bends backthe bottom part of the gutter. For additional fixation, the ear can be fixed with a self-tapping screw.

7. Installation of the gutter

Insert the gutter into the hook and secure and secure the outer edge of the gutter with the capthin fixative. Using a screwdriver, bend the plate retainer on the inside of the gutter and fixtrim the inside edge of the gutter.
Continuation of the edge of the metal tile roofing sheeting should hang over the jellybom 50mm. The continuation of the slope line from the edge of the gutter should be located at a distance40mm, but since the gutter has a slope, in practice this distance can be from 20mm at the beginning slope and up to 70mm at the end.

8. Installing Gutter and Corner Connectors

The connection of a gutter to another gutter or to a corner of a gutter is made end-to-end using gutter connector. The gutter connector is equipped with a special rubber gasket, whichparadise provides a tight connection of the gutters, and also compensates for the temperature extension. When connecting the gutters to each other and with the corners of the gutter, it is necessary to leavethe distance between the gutters is 3-4mm. For greater reliability, seal power jointshorse sealant. To install the connector, it is necessary to bend the lock by 60-90°, then put the connector with the rolled side on the back of the gutter, align the connectortel and snap the lock on the outer part of the gutters. Fix the lock by returning the latchto the original position.

9. Installation of drain pipes and final installation of the drain system.

Install the pipe brackets on the wall at a distance of no more than 1m from each other, but not less than 2pcs per pipe. In this case, first of all, it is necessary to fasten the brackets directlythe places of joints of the krub between themselves and the knees.For wooden and other soft walls, use brackets with fastening for self-tapping screws.In stone (brick and concrete) walls, before installing brackets, it is necessary todrill holes for hardware. Connect the pipe bends, downpipe, if necessary, connecting pipe,but plum. Length connecting pipe(L) are determined locally when the structure is assembled. Meter pipe grand line crimped on both sides, so if L<50см, используйте одну тру bu for two risers, cutting it. If the connecting pipe is used for one riser,the maximum pipe length is 90cm. Crimp top (10cm) cut off, otherwise docking with subsequent elements will not be possible. The drainpipe itself must be of such length that the drain elbow is at a distanceabout 200 mm from the ground or blind area (moisture-resistant base). At higher altitudes, waterwill splatter. Equip a storm sewer for an organized flow of water. Align the structure, then attach the gutter system to the funnel, adjustand snap the locks of the brackets by putting special dovetail clamps on the clamps.

10. Cleaning and post-installation care

It is necessary to periodically clean the gutters and funnels from accumulated leaves and other debris.latent elements. Once a year, carry out a preventive inspection of the drainage system.

NOTE: For high-quality and durable operation of the gutter system on pitched roofs, it is necessary install a snow retention system. This system prevents uncontrolledmelting of snow and ice, protecting the elements of the drain from unwanted deformation during a sharp differential load during the snow masses.

ATTENTION! Downspouts are mounted crimped down, otherwise leaks cannot be avoided!

Installation of a gutter system made of steel, zinc-titanium or copper does not require sophisticated equipment.

Instruments:

• Roulette.
• Mallet or rubber mallet.
• Screwdriver.
• Metal scissors.
• Pliers.
• Hook bending tool (bracket bender).

Instead of a screwdriver, you can use a screwdriver, and instead of scissors - a hacksaw.

1. Installation of hooks

To install gutters, short, long or universal hooks (brackets) are used. They are usually mounted on the rafters before the roofing materials are laid. Solid roof decking can also serve as a base for attaching hooks.

The gap between the brackets when using steel drains should be from 50 to 90 cm. Similarly, when installing zinc-titanium drains. For copper gutters, the step between the hooks is smaller - from 30 to 60 cm.

At the edges, at the junction between adjacent gutters and at corners, additional brackets are required.

Brackets are attached to the base with self-tapping screws. When installing copper gutters, the screws for them must be either anodized (with a copper coating) or made of stainless steel.

In order for water to flow freely towards the funnel, the gutters should be installed with a slope of 2 mm per meter of drain or 2 cm per 10 m. If two gutters must be installed on one roof slope, they are mounted with an inclination from the middle to opposite sides.

Markings that take into account the slope are applied before installation, and the brackets must be pre-numbered.

The bending of the hooks depends on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes and is carried out using a bracket bender. After that, the bracket must be tried on to the slope and, if necessary, bent additionally. First, this is done for one hook, and when the desired angle of bend is determined, the fixing screw of the bender should be tightened to the stop. This sets the bending angle for all other hooks on this ramp.

When bending, the front edge of the gutter must be 6 mm lower than the rear.

Installation begins with extreme hooks located at the upper and lower points of the future spillway (taking into account its slope). A cord is pulled between these hooks.

The roof covering may hang over the gutter no more than a third of its diameter.

Short brackets are attached to the front board or to the ends of the rafters in the same way as long ones.

Universal brackets can be used as both short and long hooks - but in the second case, special extensions are required.

The extension allows you to adjust the slope of the drain and increase it up to 5 cm, which increases the efficiency of water flow.

2. Preparing the hole for the funnel

The outlet for the funnel can be located anywhere in the gutter - depending on where it needs to be installed to redirect the flow of water into the pipe. In this place, markings are made using a funnel, as shown in the figure - with a gap of 45 millimeters on each side.

Then the hole is cut with scissors or a hacksaw, and its edges are folded outward. In the figure, the gutter is upside down (this way it is more convenient to mark and cut). On the mounted drain, the hole is located at the bottom.

3. Mounting

The gutter is inserted into the bracket in such a way that the nose of the bracket gets into the curl. After that, the gutter must be turned, as shown in the figure - in the direction of the roof slope until it clicks.

4. Connection

The stiffener is inserted from one side into the curl in such a way that it enters it approximately halfway. Then it is introduced in a similar way into the curl of the second gutter.

A seal is inserted into the connector - as shown in the figure, with the ribbed surface up. In this case, the seal is placed in such a way that at the curl it does not reach the edge by 10 millimeters.

Between the gutters at the junction there should be a gap of 1-1.5 millimeters. The connector aligns with this line, after which the snap locks with a detent ensure a secure fit.

At the junction, additional brackets are required, which are installed 10-15 centimeters from the connection point on both sides.

5. Installation of corners

Corner drains can be installed in two ways.

1) Fastening through a stiffening element.

Brackets prepared for installation at the corner of the roof are first connected to the corner element. It is installed in hooks, and only after that the whole structure is fixed on the roof overhang with self-tapping screws. And then, through the stiffeners, the corners are connected to the adjacent gutters.

2) Rigid fixation.

• Tilt the corner element towards you and insert a curl of a metal gutter into its curl to a depth of 3 centimeters.
• Rotate the corner element in the opposite direction (away from you) so that its edge is inside the gutter.
• Treat the joint of the corner with the gutter with silicone sealant.
• Fasten the corner with the gutter with two rivets.

The next step is the installation of the finished structure.

• Install the prepared corner on pre-installed brackets on the roof slope (it is advisable to use additional hooks to strengthen the structure).
• Tie the corner to the adjacent gutters using connectors.

6. Installing the gutter support

The element, according to Westmet specialists, is necessary for more reliable fastening of the gutter and is mounted after installing the eaves apron. At the top, it is fixed with self-tapping screws. When using copper elements of the drainage system, fasteners with special corrosion protection are used - anodized or stainless steel.

In the lower part, the curl is wound under the curl of the bracket. For additional fixation, blind rivets can be used.

7. Mounting the semi-circular plug

The plug is installed as shown in the figure. Having tilted it by 15 °, you need to insert its curl into the curl of the gutter and turn it all the way so that the plug closes the end of the drain.

The junction of the plug must be sealed, for which you can use a silicone-based sealant or TEC 7 glue. For a more reliable fixation of the plugs, it is recommended to use rivets on steel gutters, and soldering on copper gutters.

8. Installing end caps

Flat end caps are mounted as follows:

• The rubber seal is installed, as shown in the figure, with the ribbed side up.
• The plug is applied to the gutter and by hand, with a light tap, “baited” on the end.
• After the correct alignment of the plug, seal and gutter, the plug is finally fixed with a mallet.
• The ear of the plug is bent to attach it to the back side.

The plug is designed in such a way that it can be used on any end - both on the right side and on the left.

9. Installation of funnels

Funnels that redirect the flow of water from a horizontal to a vertical plane are installed after the gutters are fixed to the brackets.

The funnel is attached in the place where the hole for it is cut. It is attached with the front seam to the front edge of the gutter, and the fixing plates must be bent at the rear edge.

To protect against debris that can get into the weir from the roof, a special grid "Spider" is provided.

10. Installation of universal elbows

If the roof eaves protrude less than 25 cm above the wall, then two adapter bends are sufficient to connect to the pipe. With a greater distance from the cornice overhang to the wall, an additional piece of downpipe must be inserted between the universal elbows.

To drain water from the basement of the building, it is desirable to install a drain at the bottom of the pipe. It can be both ordinary and decorated.

Both the elbows at the top and the elbows at the bottom are best secured with pop rivets.

11. Installing the pipe connector

If it is required to connect together cuts of downpipes that do not have their own socket, then a pipe connector is used. It has a socket, into which part of the pipe is inserted from above, and a narrow part, which is inserted into another part of the pipe from below.

12. Mounting the S-line

S-lines are used to bypass projections on the facade, the size of which does not exceed 5 cm.

These contours are mounted in the same way as universal knees.

13. Fixing downpipes

To fix drainpipes on walls made of any materials, a set of fasteners is used, consisting of dowels, hardware, clamps and decorative overlays.

Drainpipes are attached to the facade in increments of approximately 1.5 m:

• A hole is made in the wall for the dowel.
• The dowel is fixed in the appropriate place.
• The hardware is screwed into a decorative overlay.
• Using the key, the hardware is screwed into the dowel.
• The overlay is rotated in the opposite direction and thus pressed against the wall.
• If necessary, the lining is fixed with a sealant.
• A nut is screwed onto the hardware - in such a way that at least 5 millimeters of the hardware thread remains outside.
• The back of the clamp is attached to the hardware, after which it should be locked with a nut.
• A downpipe is inserted into this part of the clamp.
• The front part of the clamp is installed last, which connects to the rear screws.

On ventilated facades and facades with external insulation, it is desirable to fix drain pipes using an extension stud, as well as a connecting nut, which are not included in the standard equipment of the drainage system. They can be purchased separately.

14. Installation of drainage funnels

Sometimes a situation arises when water from the roof has to be diverted without the use of gutters - for example, in valleys or with a complex roof configuration. In this case, the installation of drainage funnels helps.

The installation method of these funnels depends on the specific features of the roof structure.

In all cases, when blind rivets are used during installation, they should be painted with paint that matches the color of the elements of the gutter system.