Coloring. Wall painting with water-based paint improved Painting simple and improved difference

ORDER OF LENIN

MOSORGSTROY

TYPICAL TECHNOLOGICAL CARD
FOR WATER EMULSION AND OIL COLORING
WALLS AND CEILINGS

Moscow - 1983

Typical flow chart developed by the design and technology department finishing works trust Mosorgstroy (L.K. Nemtsyn, A.N. Strigina) and agreed with the Department of Finishing Works of Glavmosstroy (V.I. Malin).

The map shows the technological sequence of work for water-based and oil painting, there are sections on safety, workplace organization, and the quality of the work performed. A standard set of tools and fixtures is given.

APPLICATION AREA

1.1. The technological map was developed for water-based and oil painting of walls used in the decoration of residential, civil and industrial buildings and structures.

1.2. The scope of work covered by the map includes:

preparation of surfaces of building structures for painting;

surface painting building structures indoors with water-based paints;

painting surfaces of building structures indoors with oil paints.

1.3. Type of painting: simple, improved, high quality, painting colors are set by the project.

2. ORGANIZATION AND TECHNOLOGY OF THE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS

2.1. Painting work inside the premises should be carried out after the completion of general construction and special works with the exception of parquet flooring, linoleum stickers, flooring made of synthetic materials. Window frames must be glazed. Before the start of painting work at the construction site, surfaces must be accepted with the participation of work foremen and foremen in accordance with the requirements of SNiP III -21-73 "Finishing coatings of building structures".

2.2. Surface preparation and painting may be carried out at an air temperature of at least 10 °C and ventilation providing relative humidity air is not more than 70%, the humidity of the surface of structures should not be more than 8%.

A. Preparation of surfaces of building structures for painting

2.3. Requirements for surfaces to be prepared for painting (GOST 22844-72).

Table 1

	Permissible deviations						Limit dimensions local defects, mm
	surface from plane	planes from the vertical walls	husks, usenkov, window and door slopes, pilasters		slope from the design position in width	rods from a straight line (for the entire length of the rod)	Limit dimensions local defects, mm
							shells		bulges (height) and depressions (depth)
							diameter	depth	bulges (height) and depressions (depth)
Improved coloration	no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height up to 3 mm inclusive	1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 10 mm for the entire height (length)	1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 5 mm for the entire element	7 mm	3 mm	3 mm	8,0	5,0
High quality painting	no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height up to 2 mm inclusive	1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 5 mm for the entire height (length)	1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 3 mm for the entire element	5 mm	2 mm	2 mm	3,0	3,0	2,0

2.4. It is allowed to prepare for painting the surfaces of building structures and their junctions (corners, junctions, joints) that do not have deviations from the design position given in Table. , as well as through and shrinkage cracks, opened to a width of more than 3 mm.

2.5. Surfaces to be prepared for painting should be free of dirt, stains and efflorescence. The surfaces of industrial products must meet the requirements of the standards for these products. Plastered structures should not have plaster detachments from the surface of structures, traces of a trowel tool, or mortar streaks. Surfaces lined with sheets of dry gypsum plaster must not have:

violations of fastening sheets;

delamination of cardboard from gypsum from the end of the sheet by more than 20 mm;

tearing of cardboard with exposure of gypsum for a length of more than 30 mm;

more than two broken corners in the joint of sheets over the entire surface and more than one broken corner in one joint.

Surfaces lined with asbestos-cement sheets to be prepared for painting should not have bevels, rips, sags, or distortions.

2.6. When preparing surfaces for painting, the following technological operations should be performed:

surface cleaning;

surface smoothing;

jointing of cracks;

priming;

partial grease;

grinding of greased places;

solid putty;

grinding;

second solid putty;

grinding.

2.7. They clean the surfaces and cracks on it from dust, dirt, splashes and streaks of the solution using metal scrapers, a bream, artificial pumice stone fixed in a holder or a hinged grater (Fig.,). Fat stains are washed with a 2% hydrochloric acid solution with a brush; efflorescence on the surface is swept away with brushes, the cleaned places are washed and the surface is dried to a moisture content of not more than 8%. Cracks are embroidered with a plaster knife or a metal spatula to a depth of 2 mm.

Surface priming

2.8. For painting with water-based compositions, the first priming of the surface is performed with a soap maker prepared in accordance with TU 400-2-143-77 (Notice No. 1 on extension until 1982) from bone glue, drying oil, laundry soap and water.

Soap primer at a construction site is prepared from a concentrated base (jelly) produced by the Stroydetal plant of the Mosotdelprom trust in the form of briquettes weighing 1 kg. The jelly is used for 10 days in summer and 20 days in winter. To prepare the primer, the weight part of the jelly is poured into two parts of hot water ( t= 80 °С). Then the composition is stirred until the jelly is completely dissolved, 3 parts are added cold water and mix thoroughly again. Before use, the primer is filtered through a sieve with 625 holes/cm 2 . The primer must be homogeneous, without traces of delamination, undissolved pieces of soap, and also without grains of sand and other debris. Apply a primer mechanized way using an electric spray gun or spray gun. To obtain a uniform primer layer, the fishing rod is moved along the surface at a distance of 0.75 m from the seam, while simultaneously making smooth circular movements in a spiral. The second and third priming is carried out with a paint composition diluted with water to a viscosity of 40 - 43 seconds according to VZ-4, applied using a roller.

2.9. Before painting with oil compositions, the surfaces are pro-oiled with the following composition:

drying oil, kg - 1

pigment for subcolor, kg - 0.05 - 0.1

solvent (turpentine, gasoline, etc.), kg - 0.05 - 0.1

Pigment is introduced into drying oil with thorough mixing and the mixture is passed through a sieve with a mesh of 918 resp./cm 2 . Before use, a solvent is added to the composition to a working consistency.

The second and, if necessary, the third primer is performed with a color scheme to match the color of the final color, diluted with drying oil or emulsion to a more liquid consistency.

The primer is applied to the surface in a thin, even, continuous layer, without gaps, carefully shading. The primed surface should have an even color without separate glossy or matte spots.

2.10. Embroidered cracks, shells and other irregularities are filled with putty using a steel or wooden spatula. After the greased places dry out, they are polished with a pumice stone inserted into the clip, or with a sanding skin fixed in the clip.

2.11. Putty used to fill cracks, sinks and leveling surfaces should be a homogeneous non-separating mass, have the property of strong adhesion to the surface, and be easily leveled on the treated surface. Putty is prepared centrally at the Stroydetal plant and delivered to the construction site packed in plastic bags weighing 15 kg. At the place of work, the putty is passed for grinding in the CO-116 paint grinder (if necessary).

The first solid putty should be done with a composition that differs in color from the first primer layer and the partial grease layer.

The putty is applied in a uniform continuous layer 2–3 mm thick “on the strip” with a metal or plastic spatula, followed by smoothing and removing excess putty until gaps of the lower layer appear from under it. Putty should fill only the cavities. The second and subsequent solid putties are performed with a composition that differs in color from the first, etc. (rice. , ).

2.12. Grinding of solid putty is carried out using mechanical grinders IE-2201A with sandpaper, reinforced on a wooden grater, pumice stone until a smooth surface is obtained, followed by dust removal with a vacuum cleaner.

2.13. Surfaces prepared for painting should not be bleached, and should not have deviations exceeding those given in Table. , cracks in places of puttying, emerging stripes and spots (GOST 22844-72).

Table 2

Requirements for surfaces prepared for painting

Type of finish	Permissible deviations
Type of finish	surface from plane	from the vertical or horizontal of window and door slopes, pilasters, husks, mustaches	curved surfaces from the design position	rods from a straight line (onfull lengththrust)
Improved coloration	no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height of up to 2 mm	1 mm per 1 m of height or length, but not more than 4 mm for the entire element	5 mm	2 mm
High quality painting	no more 2 irregularities up to 1.5 mm deep or high	1 mm per 1 m of height or length, but not more than 2 mm for the entire element	3 mm	1.8mm

Surfaces prepared for painting should be checked in any place, but at least in three places for unevenness and local defects.

Painting surfaces of building structures indoors with water-based paints

2.14. Emulsion paints are produced by industry different colors ready to use. Before use, the paint is thoroughly mixed, brought to a working consistency by adding water. It is impossible to apply water-based paints on surfaces previously treated with vitriol.

2.15. For the first coloring, the viscosity of the water-based paint is adjusted to 50 - 70 s, according to VZ-4, and for the second - 70 - 80 s. The surface is painted with rollers on elongated handles directly from the floor or with brushes. Before this, a handbrake brush is used to layer the ceilings and baseboards and paint the inner corners.

Painting surfaces of building structures indoors with oil paints

2.16. Oil paints are a suspension of the corresponding pigment (iron minium, mummy, ocher, etc.), rubbed on drying oil.

Before use, they are brought to a paint consistency by diluting with natural drying oil in an amount of 30 - 40% by weight of the thickly grated paint. After dilution with drying oil, if necessary, dilute with white spirit in an amount of not more than 5% by weight of the diluted paint.

If the primer is applied by hand, it is prepared according to the recipe specified in paragraph . Drying oil is added with stirring to the thickly ground paint of the same color that the coloring composition should have for subsequent coloring.

When applying the primer by air spraying, a VM emulsion (water:oil) is used, which is prepared centrally at the Stroydetal plant of Mosotdelprom. The emulsion is delivered to the construction site ready for use in cans.

Apply the emulsion using an electric spray gun or spray gun, see p.

2.17. Painting with water-based and oil paints is carried out with rollers or brushes. When painting with a brush, it is immersed in a container with paint for 1/4 of the length of the bristles. First, the paint is applied in bold, somewhat receding stripes from one another and shaded in the transverse, and then, finally, in the longitudinal direction.

When painting with a roller, the roller is lowered into the bath and rolled once or twice on an inclined grid, squeezing out excess paint. Then the roller is rolled over the surface. Coloring is done in two or three passes with a roller: the first pass is carried out by vertical movements of the roller; the second - in a horizontal direction, shading the applied layer. With each subsequent pass of the roller, the previous one should be overlapped by 3-4 cm (Fig. ).

2.18. Flattening is performed with the end of a dry brush without pressing on the flute by reciprocal movements of the flute until the brush marks and streaks are completely removed from the surface (Fig. ).

2.19. Trimming (if necessary) is performed with a dry trimming brush, applying light blows to the freshly painted surface (Fig. ).

2.20. Painting must be carried out in compliance with the "Safety in Construction" and "Fire Safety Rules for Construction and Installation Works".

Particular attention should be paid to the following: painting work at height should be carried out from inventory scaffolding, stepladders, universal trestle tables, mobile towers and other inventory devices. When performing work on flights of stairs it is necessary to use special scaffolds (tables) with different lengths of support posts installed on the steps.

The work floor must behorizontal and have railings.

It is allowed to store painting materials only in places specially provided for by the PPR.

When preparing paint compositions with a paint grater, the following precautions must be taken:

prevent overheating of the electric motor during the operation of the paint grinder;

do not leave a working paint grinder unattended;

do not allow unauthorized persons who have not undergone special training to work on the paint grinder.

Persons at least 18 years of age who have undergone special training and have received a certificate for the right to work with these tools are allowed to work with electrified tools.

Protective goggles must be worn when cleaning the surface and grinding. When washing surfaces with hydrochloric acid solution, workers should wear goggles, rubber boots and gloves. Dilute the acid by slowly pouring it into the water. Prepare and store paints, varnish, solvents should be in separate buildings equipped with ventilation. Containers for adhesives and paints should be stored in a specially designated place outdoors on a designated area, at least 30 m away from the place of work.

2.21. The front of painting works is divided into sections. The size of the occupants is determined taking into account the output reached by the link, each occupancy must consist of an integer number of apartments in residential buildings, a whole number of premises in administrative, school and cultural buildings. In industrial buildings, the grip should consist of an integer number of spans.

2.22. Oil painting work water-based compositions are carried out by specialized units of two people each: painters of the 4th and 2nd category. First, both members of the link prepare the surfaces for painting, that is, they smooth or clean the surfaces and expand the cracks. Then the painter of the 4th category performs the priming of the surfaces with an electric spray gun or roller. After drying the primed surface, the painter of the 2nd category performs a partial lubrication of individual places, then both members of the link perform continuous puttying of the surface, then polishing it. The second priming, puttying and subsequent painting of the surfaces are carried out by both members of the link.

3. TECHNICAL AND ECONOMIC INDICATORS

Table 3

Labor costing

Rationale	Type of work	Labor costs, man-hour.
Rationale	Type of work	oil painting	water emulsion
ENiR § 8-24 tb. 4 p. 4	Surface Smoothing
- » - p. 5	Crack jointing	0,33	0,33
- "- p. 7	Priming (proolifka)
- » - p. 10	Partial grease
§ 8-24 tb. 8 p. 3	Sanding smudged areas	0,76	0,76
§ 8-24 tb. 7 p. 4	First solid putty	15,5	15,5
- "- p. 6	Sanding putty
- "- p. 4	Second putty
- "- p. 6	Sanding putty
tb. 7 p. 12	Priming
- "- p. 15
- "- p. 13	Coloring the first roller
- "- p. 14	Coloring the second roller
- "- p. 15	Flattening (when painting with a brush)
Total:	Production per 1 worker per shift	78,59 10 m2	61,09 12 m2

4. MATERIAL AND TECHNICAL RESOURCES

4.1. The need for basic materials and semi-finished products

Table 4

Name of materials	Unit rev.	For 100 m 2 of surface
Name of materials	Unit rev.	water-based coloring	oil painting
Drying oil	kg
Kohler ready for priming under oil painting	- » -
Soap primer (under water-based coloring)	- » -	10,1
Drying oil	- » -
Paints for highlighting (surface pro-oiling)	- » -
Glue-oil putty (partial lubrication)	- » -
Glue-oil putty (solid puttying)		45,7	45,7
first	- » -
second	- » -	28,7	28,7
Color oil	- » -		22,8
Drying oil	- » -		11,6
Water-based paint
first	- » -	18,7
second	- » -	14,2

4.2. The need for machines, equipment, tools and fixtures per link

Table 5

Name, purpose

Quantity, pcs.

Painting work should be carried out in new apartments a year after moving in, and then, in subsequent years, at least once every 5 years. Ceilings and non-wallpapered walls in rooms are recommended to be whitewashed every 2 years. It is advisable to whitewash the kitchen, pantry, bathroom, toilet 2 times a year - in spring and autumn.

Preparing for painting work

Before you start painting, you must:

choose the colors of the walls in the rooms;
determine the type of paint (glue, emulsion in nursery rooms or oil in the kitchen and bathroom)
determine the required amount of paint, depending on the area of walls, ceilings, etc .;
prepare necessary tools for painting work.

For painting work, the following tools are needed:

putty knife- for minor repairs plastering, sealing holes and cracks, cleaning walls and ceilings;
metal brush- for cleaning walls, ceilings, radiators, pipes, etc.;
grater- for a zatirka and polishing of a surface of walls and ceilings;
brush-brush- for painting walls and ceilings with adhesive and water-based paints;
flute brush(flat brush) - for painting with oil paints; it can also be used when painting with water-based paint;
paint roller- for covering walls with water-based and oil paints;
round brush- for painting radiators, pipes, doors, windows oil paint.

For whitewashing ceilings, adhesive, lime, water-based compositions are used.
The walls of the rooms are painted with adhesive, water-based compositions, enamels and varnishes.

Many colorful compositions are not complete without glue. When painting, animal glue is used. It is mezdrovy and bone. Mezdrovy glue has a darker color. Available in the form of tiles, powder, cereals. Bone - lighter, sold in the form of tiles. Benign joiner's glue has a light brown or brownish-yellow color without spots, shines on a break.

A solution of animal (carpentry) glue is prepared as follows:

tile adhesive is crushed into pieces, put in a jar, poured cold water so that it covers the glue layer a little, and leave it to swell for 12-18 hours. The jar of glue is placed in another large bowl with water and put on fire, stirring constantly. When the glue dissolves in water, it is ready to use. 10% strength glue used in finishing works is 100 g of glue dissolved in 1 liter of water.
It must be cooked in small quantities, because after 3-4 days it rots and loses its properties.
Instead of animal glue, synthetic CMC glue can be used:
400 g of CMC glue, up to 1 kg of chalk and pigments are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Such compositions are stored long time. Glue coloring is simple, improved and high quality. With simple painting, the surface is cleaned, smoothed, primed, painted.

Improved painting includes the following operations:

cleaning, surface smoothing, crack filling, first priming, lubrication, grinding of lubricated areas, second priming, painting. With high-quality painting, in addition, two more solid putties, sanding, a third priming, and trimming are performed.
Adhesive painting is carried out only in dry rooms. Oil painting of plastered walls in living rooms is not recommended, as it natural ventilation premises. Sanitary-technical devices are painted with oil and enamel paints.
Before painting, the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt. Expand the cracks and close up with a solution. Grease stains are removed with caustic soda or warm solution laundry soap. The red spots (streaks) formed on the ceiling are removed with copper sulphate.

Vitriol is dissolved in hot boiled water:

1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water (the dishes should only be enameled). With a brush moistened with a hot solution of vitriol, smear the stain, after which the entire ceiling is treated with vitriol, especially carefully if it is heavily smoked. After 2 - 3 hours, the ceiling will dry out and, if the stains appear, it is necessary to corkage again, it is possible with a cooled solution.
It is good to paint over especially corrosive spots with paint, and then putty, otherwise the whitewash will not fall. Remains old paint are removed. Walls covered with lime or adhesive paints are moistened with warm water and washed with a washcloth. If the nabel is thicker, it is pre-soaked with hot water and removed with a scraper.
Multi-layer whitewashing of adhesive paint is moistened with a 3% hydrochloric acid solution and removed with scrapers. Oil paint can be softened if a paste of 1 kg of lime paste and 1 kg of sifted chalk, mixed and diluted with a 20% solution of caustic soda, is applied to the surface with a spatula to a paste-like mass. The mass is applied to the wall with a layer of 1.5-2 mm.

After an hour and a half, when the paint softens and begins to bubble, it is removed with a staple or a knife, and the surface is washed first with water, then with a 1-2% solution of hydrochloric acid or acetic essence, rinsed again with water, wiped with a rag and allowed to dry for 2- 3 days.
Whitewash the ceilings with brushes 2 times. First towards window openings, then diagonally. When working, the brush must be held perpendicular to the surface of the ceiling. It is recommended to put on the brush handle half of the old rubber ball, on which the flowing paint will linger during operation.
For whitewashing, special spray devices can also be used.
Wall painting begins

after complete drying of the ceiling. Paint should be vertical from top to bottom. Glue paint should be applied on a warm surface, then it comes off the brush or paint roller better.
When applying paint with a brush or roller, you need to drive in one place no more than 2 times, otherwise the applied paint will peel off, reach for the brush or roller.
To make it easier to remove the old oil paint from the wall surface, it is ironed with a hot iron through the foil until softened, and then scraped off with a spatula.
When painting with oil paint, the old paint, if it does not have swelling and peeling, is not removed.
Lacquers are washed off with appropriate solvents.

All surfaces must be well dried before painting. Humidity of plaster or concrete before painting should not exceed 8%, wooden surfaces - 12%. Surfaces painted with lime paints may be wetter.

Adhesive painting technology

The surface prepared for painting is primed. Without a primer, the color will be uneven and spotty. Primers can be of a strictly defined purpose, for example, for adhesive painting, or universal.

Under adhesive coloring you can prepare vitriol primer. To do this, 100-150 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 3 liters of boiling water, 200 g of dry wood glue are boiled separately in 2 liters of water, 250 g of 40% laundry soap is diluted in 3 liters of water.

The soap solution is poured into the adhesive solution, mixed thoroughly, 20-25 g of natural drying oil are added and mixed again. Then a solution of copper sulfate is poured in a thin stream, 2.5-3 kg of sifted chalk is poured and topped up with water - 10 liters of primer should be obtained. Table salt is added to lime to give it strength. Drying oil added to the primer softens the film and improves color adhesion.

If the amount of drying oil indicated in the recipe is slightly increased, the quality of the primer will not deteriorate, but rather improve. When preparing a vitriol primer, soap without drying oil cannot be used, otherwise it will curdle in a solution of vitriol.

The surface is covered with the prepared composition, allowed to dry and puttied. For putty, 1.5 liters of a 10% solution of animal glue are mixed with 10 liters of vitriol primer and sifted chalk is added until a pasty consistency is obtained.

When preparing a vitriol primer and putty, one must remember that vitriol should be diluted only in non-metallic dishes (enamelled, clay, plastic). You can store vitriol primer for no more than 5 days.

After drying, the surface is cleaned, primed and, after allowing the primer to dry, proceed to painting. All pigments can be added to adhesive colors, with the exception of red lead. If the color is prepared from different pigments, then each of them is soaked in a separate bowl. Adhesive paint compositions are prepared as follows. For a day or two, the sifted chalk and pigments are soaked in a separate bowl.

Water is poured so much that a creamy mass is obtained. The pigments are well mixed 2-3 times. The soaked pigment is added to the white color scheme in separate portions. Everything is well mixed. To check the color of the pigment, the resulting color is smeared on a piece of glass and the glass is dried over a fire.

If the color of the color scheme needs to be strengthened, then more pigment paste is added if it matches the specified color, it is fixed with glue, gradually pouring in the adhesive solution. After the first portion of the glue, the solution becomes very thick, but you can’t add water to it, you need to wait a bit. After mixing, the adhesive paint liquefies.

If there is not enough glue, the paint will get dirty, if there is too much glue, the paint film will crack. Therefore, the glue is poured in a thin stream into the color scheme, checking it for gluing, drying it on glass. If the color gets slightly dirty, it means that there is enough glue, but if shiny stripes appear, it means that there is a lot of glue and you need to add water.

Kohler should have sufficient density. They check it like this:

put a drop of color on a clean glass and put it vertically - the color has sufficient density if the drop flows down by 20-30 mm.

chalk - 1 kg, ultramarine - 50 g, dry tile adhesive - 80.100 g, water - 78 l

Convenient to use semi-finished product Whitewash painting».

Adhesive paints (casein, dextrin and bone glue), ready-to-use varnishes are produced in the form of dry paint compositions, which must be diluted with cold water immediately before use (1 liter of water per 1 kg of dry paint). First, dry paint is dissolved in 0.6 l of water, then 20-40 g of drying oil, the remaining water are added to the solution, and everything is filtered through a sieve. The prepared solution should be stored for no more than 24 hours.

Dextrin paints or paints on bone glue should be mixed with warm water in a ratio of 1:

1, let the mixture stand for 5-6 hours, and then stir again.

It makes no sense to keep glue paint for a long time, since its color changes after a few hours, and it brightens.

Lime paint technology

Surfaces are cleaned, as well as for glue painting, moistened with water and primed. There are several primer recipes. Here is one of them. In 10 liters of water, stir 5 kg of lime dough. Separately, 100-200 g of table salt or 400 g of aluminum-potassium alum are dissolved in 4 liters of boiling water.

This solution is poured in a thin stream into the lime paste and diluted with water to 20 liters. Everything is filtered through a sieve with cells of 1X1 mm. To fix the whitewash compositions, alum, drying oil or table salt are used.

The whitewash composition using salt is prepared as follows. Salt is dissolved in hot water (100-150 g per bucket lime mortar). In 5-6 liters of water, stir 3-4 kg of lime dough, add a solution of common salt and dilute with water to obtain 10 liters of solution.

Pre-soaked dry alkali-resistant pigments (ochre, iron minium, soot, mummy, chromium oxide, umber, burnt bone) can be added to it in the form of a paste.

To white mortar did not give a yellowish tint when painting, ultramarine (blue) is added to it.

On the top of the wall, the paint is laid strictly horizontally, for which a strip is drawn with a brush along a horizontal line beaten off with chalk at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ceiling, and then the walls are painted with a roller or flywheel brush. Paint 2 times.

Lime paints are mainly used for exterior works when painting plastered facades. . Indoors, they are used when finishing basement walls and ceilings, as well as other damp rooms.

Since lime is usually easier to obtain than high-quality chalk, it is advisable to use lime paints when finishing dry rooms. For example, ceilings can be whitewashed with lime, plastered wall surfaces can be painted with lime paints, etc.

If you need to paint with lime a surface previously covered with an adhesive composition, be sure to remove the old chalk from it, as lime paints can peel off

Oil painting technology

After cleaning and repairing the plaster walls, they are covered with drying oil with the addition of pigments or grated paint. The pigment is taken within 10% of the weight of drying oil. Drying oil can be used in any color and variety. Of the pigments, ocher, minium and mummy are preferable.

Dry pigments are better than grated paint, as they create a roughness on the surface, which ensures strong adhesion of the paint. The drying oil is preheated. Sometimes proolifka is performed twice. With improved or high-quality painting, the walls are primed with liquid paint to match the color of the main color scheme in the proportion:

drying oil natural - 100 g, thick oil paint - 600.1200 g

Putties for oil paint are used semi-oil or oil. (Recipe for oil putty, see p. 379.) To obtain a semi-oil putty, 20 g of liquid soap is dissolved in 200 g of 10% hot adhesive solution Add 1 kg of drying oil, 250 g of turpentine or white spirit (lacquer kerosene), 50 g of desiccant and a little chalk, stirring continuously. Then put the rest of the chalk until a loose dough is obtained. After the putty dries, the wall is sanded and painted.

Oil paints are ready to use(liquid) and thickened (pasty). Thickly grated paint is diluted with drying oil before use (150-600 g of drying oil per 1 kg of paint).

If the oil color is prepared from several colors, then the drying oil is poured into the paint, which is the most in the color, to a working density and, mixing thoroughly, in small portions, the rest of the color of the paint until the color is obtained desired color. If necessary, it is diluted with drying oil.

Thick oil paint can also be diluted with turpentine, but then the surface will be matte. You can adjust the degree of glossiness of the surface by adding turpentine to paint diluted with drying oil. The strength and glossiness of a surface painted with oil paint will increase if it is covered with oil varnish.

To speed up the drying of the paint, desiccants (liquid oxides of some metals) are added to it. They are used to speed up the drying of oils, oil paints, drying oils and varnishes, and light driers are added only to light paints and not more than 3-4% by weight of the paint, otherwise its strength will decrease. When applying the last layer, the desiccant is not added to the paint.

You can improve the gloss of oil paint by adding 4C oil-resin varnish to it.

To get the right color of oil paint, sometimes you have to mix several different colors together. However, some paints cannot be mixed.

For example, zinc white - with barite yellow, zinc yellow, azure, cinnabar mercury white lead - with mercury cinnabar, lithoponic white, barite and zinc yellow, ultramarine lithopon white - with zinc white, crown yellow, green lead, chrome, cobalt purple titanium white - with crown azure yellow - with mercury cinnabar, barite yellow zinc yellow - with cobalt blue, ultramarine, cobalt violet.

With all colors, you can mix emerald green, chromium oxide, ocher, mummy, mars yellow, umber, iron minium, malachite, burnt bone, black grape and some others.

The paint is applied in a thin layer in two steps. The second layer is applied after the first has dried. Oil paint is applied in wide strokes along the surface, and then shaded across the stroke and again painted along.

A little more about paints, varnishes, enamels. Briefly, the words "enamel", "lacquer", "paint" are deciphered as follows:

enamels and paints- opaque, matte, glossy varnishes -1 transparent.

Varnishes and enamels are made on the basis of synthetic resins, paints - on the basis of drying oil or polyvinyl acetate emulsion. About what connecting element is included in the paint, enamel, varnish, you can find out by the letters that are next to the name.

MA - paints on drying oils from vegetable oils Gf___ enamels on glyphthalic varnishes PF - enamels on napentaphthalic varnishes NC - enamels based on cellulose nitrate KO - on organosilicon varnishes FA - on oil-phenolic varnishes MCH - on urea-formaldehyde resins EVA (VA) - based on polyvinyl acetate VS - based on vinyl acetate copolymers PVA - based on polyvinyl alcohol BG - based on bitumen AK - based on acrylic resins UR - based on polyurethanes MS - based on melamine-styrene resins AC - based on alkyd-urethane resins.

Letters are followed by numbers. They signify the following:

1 and 5 - can be painted both outside and inside, 2 - only inside, 0 - primer, 00 - putty.

Paints, the designation of which begins with the indices MA, GA, PF, FA, belong to the alkyd group. They can paint dry walls - plastered, concrete, wood, chipboard. All of them are compatible with each other, they can be mixed in various proportions. The same thinners, solvents, putties, primers are suitable for them.

The solvents for these paints are turpentine, white spirit, RS-2 solvent.

Organosilicon enamels - KO - are suspensions of pigments and fillers in an organosilicon varnish, to which a solvent is added. These enamels adhere to concrete, plaster, metal, wood, plastic, glass. Can be used for both outdoor and indoor work. These enamels withstand temperature extremes well, therefore they are suitable for painting heating radiators, pipes, fittings.

To dilute thickened paint or enamel, to reduce their viscosity, white spirit, turpentine, as well as special thinners and solvents are used - No. & euro46-651, KR-36, RML-218, RS-2, R-40, designed for different type colors. They can also be used to wash painting tools.

Drying oils . For repair work in the house, drying oils natural, "Oksol" and combined are most often used.

Natural drying oil is made on the basis of hemp or linseed oil by heating with the addition of a desiccant. It is used for impregnation of wooden surfaces before coating with paint, as well as for dilution of thick oil paints and whitewash, preparation of primers.

The paint, diluted with natural drying oil, gives a hard and fast drying film and can be used for both indoor and outdoor use.

Drying oil "Oksol" produced by oxidation of vegetable oils (sunflower, soybean, etc.) with the addition of a desiccant and solvents (turpentine, white spirit). Drying oil "Oksol" is used only for internal work. It is not recommended to use it for breeding paints intended for painting the floor.

Combined drying oils (K-2, K-3, K-4, K-5) are mainly used as a semi-finished product for the manufacture of oil paints.

Painting with volemulsion (water-dispersed) paints

Water-based paints are used for both exterior and interior work. They can be used to paint wooden, concrete, plastered, stone, primed metal, glass, plastic and other structures.

They cannot be used for painting coatings made of adhesive paints, varnished surfaces.

The surface before painting should be prepared in the same way as before painting. oil formulations. It is impossible to prime with solutions containing copper sulphate - it forms with paint chemical compounds, as a result of which the properties of the latter deteriorate.

Before use, the paint must be thoroughly mixed and, in case of thickening, diluted with water to a working viscosity.

Water-based paints are easily applied to the surface with a brush, roller, spray gun and form durable coatings. The duration of drying of the coating (at a temperature of 18-23 ° C) - no more than 30 minutes, complete drying - about 2 hours.

Paints VD-VA-17, VD-KCh-183, VD-AK-111 are intended for external finishing works, VD-VA-129 for external and internal works, VD-VA-27A, VD-VA- 224, for toilets (rooms with high humidity) - VD-VA-224.

Surfaces painted with these paints are easy to clean with water.

While working with water-based paint, the windows in the room must be closed until it dries. The paint is "afraid" of drafts and frost. Frozen and thawed, it is not suitable for consumption.

After work, you should immediately thoroughly wash the dishes and brushes with water, as the dried water-based paint is not washed off. When starting painting work, close the floor and furniture. Furniture can be wrapped in plastic and tied. Newspapers should not be laid on the floor:

they are easily knocked off, torn, dirt still gets on the floor.

It is better to take thick paper and glue it with one large “carpet” right on the floor. After finishing the whitewashing and painting work, it can be rolled up with the trash and thrown away.

Window frames and doors must be washed or wiped with a damp cloth before painting. Glasses are recommended to be rubbed with an onion cut in half or with a swab dipped in vinegar:

this will help to easily remove stains from oil paint from the glass. You can cut strips of thick paper and stick them on the glass with flour or starch paste.

After two days, wet the paper and remove it, and remove the traces of the paste with a damp cloth.

Before whitewashing, grease your face and hands with a greasy cream, put on gloves. When the work is done, make a warm hand bath to wash off the lime that corrodes the skin. During whitewashing, make sure that lime does not get on your face, eyes, as it causes severe burns.

What color to paint the walls of the rooms? This is important not only from an aesthetic, but also from a hygienic standpoint. It is known that various colors affect a person in different ways:

red is tiring, green is calming, orange and yellow are invigorating. Cold colors - blue, green, gray - evoke a feeling of great spaciousness.

Do not paint the walls of the same room in different colors. Changing the tone is possible in a niche (darker) and other selected parts of the room, subject to varying shades within the same color.

It is not recommended to paint the ceiling in the color of the walls, as this visually reduces the already low ceilings in our apartments. By tradition, the ceiling should be white, and the wider the white stripe between the edge of the ceiling and the colored walls (at least 15-20 cm), the higher the room will appear. It is also better not to highlight the frieze on the wall that separates the color of the wall from the color of the ceiling.

The walls in the apartment should be covered with light colors in soft colors.

There are 3 groups of colors:

cold - blue (cyan), green, violet warm - yellow, red, orange neutral - white, black. Primary colors - red, blue, black, white, yellow. Other tones are obtained by mixing the main ones, and reducing the intensity by adding white paint.

When choosing wall colors, it should be remembered that glue paint becomes lighter after drying, while oil and emulsion paints darken. Therefore, before the final decision on the choice of color, make a test on the wall (paint a small area), which will show the true color of the prepared paint. If the room is painted in one color, the ceiling and walls are first primed, then painted.

After that, window sashes, doors, window sills, platbands are wiped of dirt and paint and painted with oil or enamel paints. Lastly, baseboards and floors are painted.

If the ceilings and walls are painted in different colors, the ceilings are primed and painted first, then the walls. After that, the panel is taken away, windows, doors, platbands, window sills and baseboards are painted. When pasting walls with wallpaper, the ceilings are first primed and painted, then doors, platbands, windows, window sills, baseboards, and then the walls are pasted over with wallpaper.

Rub heavily soiled walls before whitewashing with sand or wash with water. If there are rain stains or soot on the walls, ceilings, whitewash them first with lime mixed with zoloif. In places where the walls adjoin the ceiling or to each other, forming an angle, there are more total passes during painting Therefore, these places must first be cut with a brush, and then, carefully unpriming the paint, painted in the usual way. In order for the color to be uniform, the paint must be mixed more often. To do this, you can use a piece of bent wire inserted into a drill.

From above, it is advisable to cover the jar with a cardboard circle and pierce the wire through it. Having typed paint with a brush, it is slightly squeezed out on the edge of the dish.

The brush must be kept perpendicular to the surface to be painted during operation. It is convenient to paint large surfaces with a roller. However, before applying it, you should paint the wall corners, joints with windows, doors and other places where it is inconvenient to paint with a roller. The width of the strip painted with a brush should be at least 7-8 cm.

Coloring with a roller begins with several strokes crosswise, and then rub them. A lot of paint on the roller, as well as on the brush, is not gaining.

The foam roller is indispensable for obtaining an even, smooth color. It can be quite difficult to dip it in the paint so that it is all evenly covered with a thin layer of the coloring composition.

The paint must be poured into a basin or a wide bowl, lightly immerse the roller in it and begin to slowly turn it with a thin wooden stick or a piece of wood until the paint is absorbed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roller.

The paint should be applied in a thin layer. If it is not possible to cover the surface at one time, it is necessary to paint it again after the first layer dries. -Two or three layers of paint are always stronger than one thick one. When painting walls, water-based compositions are applied lightly with a brush, and in one place they are carried out with a brush no more than two times.

On the ceiling, the first layer is applied perpendicular to the window opening, the second - parallel to it. If the windows in a room with different sides, then the last layer is applied along the length of the ceiling.

Wooden surfaces are painted for the last time along the grain. In hot weather, glue paint should be applied in the morning or in the evening, when there is no heat. After whitewashing the ceilings and walls, doors and windows are easily washed from white smudges with a mixture of water and vinegar (1 part vinegar to 2 parts water).

Enamels and varnishes should be used heated, for which the dishes with them are placed in hot water, bringing the temperature up to 60-80 °C.

Some enamels are made on volatile solvents, so it is recommended to heat them in a sealed container. It must be remembered that solvents are flammable. A number of enamels are produced only for mechanical spraying. They are not suitable for use with brushes, as the solvent quickly evaporates from them.

So that the whitewashed surfaces do not get dirty, you can add chemicals to the whitewash that replace starch - Alba, White Emulsion, Shershknas, Velte, Meadows, Sina, Elegant (with bleach ).

for oil paints - on turpentine, gasoline for oil varnish- toning pastes on drying oil for glue paint - mixed on glue water for chalk dough - pigments on water. If there is a fingerprint on the paint that is not completely dry, dampen with water forefinger and wipe the imprint with it.

To destroy brush marks, freshly painted walls are fluted with special brushes - flutes.

To improve the appearance of the surface to be painted, it is treated with a brush designed for this purpose - trimming.f On oil and enamel paints with long-term storage a thick film is formed To prevent this from happening, put a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and pour a little drying oil or machine oil on top.

If a film has formed on the surface of the paint, it is not necessary to filter it. It is enough to lower a part of the nylon stocking into the jar and dip the brush right through it. The paint is used completely, without loss. So that the oil paint does not dry out, the edges of the jar in which it is stored are smeared with paint and the jar is covered with a piece of glass.

If you've only used up some of the paint, tightly cap the remaining paint can and turn it upside down. The crust that forms on the opposite side will not interfere with the reuse of paint. New brushes should first be held in water for 50-60 minutes. From water, they swell and increase in volume - this allows you to protect the bristles and hair from falling out and thereby ensure high quality coloring.

Before working with oil paints, wetted brushes should be dried and worked with them for 20-30 minutes. rough plaster or on a brick, wetting them in paint. In this case, the protruding hairs will even out.

With long breaks in work, the brushes should be washed well from oil paints:

first - in kerosene, turpentine or white spirit, then - in soapy water. Brushes from glue paints are washed in a clean warm water(and it is recommended to wash them every day), then wring out and give them the shape of a torch.

After enamels, paints, varnish, even long-dried brushes can be restored if they are boiled in 9% vinegar. Immediately after working with oil paints, rinse rollers and brushes well in gasoline and place in clean water. AT unheated room it is better to store them in a bucket with kerosene, turpentine or in the same paint that was used for work, but so that they do not touch the bottom of the dish, that is, in a suspended state.

So that the brush used for working with oil paints does not dry out, it should be put in a jar of solvent, put a plastic bag on top of the jar and the handle of the brush and tighten it on the jar with an elastic band. After nitro paints, nitro enamels, brushes can be washed with solvent No. 647, then placed in clean water. For winter, when stored in cold conditions, it is better to fill them with the same solvent or rinse them well, dry them and wrap them in rags.

Painting built-in or hanging cabinets begins with hard-to-reach inner walls. It is most convenient to paint the bindings of window frames, skirting boards, panels and the lower edge of doors with a small flute (about 5 cm in diameter). When painting window frames, pay attention to the corners. Paint or enamel is shaded along the binding bars. Painted bindings are left open for two days so that the paint is completely dry and not. stuck to the boxes when closing the binding. The door begins to be painted from the panels, then they move on to the protruding surfaces. Smooth the paint with an almost dry brush with light strokes from the bottom up. The paint is first applied across, then shaded along the door. Platbands are painted in the same way.

Skirting boards are painted along with the use of shields. Chairs, tables, stools begin to paint with inside, putting them with their legs up, and then turn over and paint from the outside. In order not to stain the floor with paint, place covers under the legs of furniture from cans. Known for simple and quality way coloring of wooden surfaces. Fresh, good quality cement is rubbed on a stone with milk until the density of oil paint and with a brush in 2-3 steps is applied to an unpolished wooden surface. Such processing not only protects window frames and other wooden objects from the influence of the weather, but also makes them fireproof.

1.1. The technological map was developed for water-based and oil painting of walls used in the decoration of residential, civil and industrial buildings and structures.

1.2. The scope of work covered by the map includes:

preparation of surfaces of building structures for painting;

painting surfaces of building structures indoors with water-based paints;

painting surfaces of building structures indoors with oil paints.

1.3. Type of painting: simple, improved, high quality, painting colors are set by the project.

2.1. Painting work inside the premises should be carried out after completion of general construction and special works, with the exception of parquet flooring, linoleum stickers, flooring made of synthetic materials. Window frames must be glazed. Before starting painting work at a construction site, surfaces must be accepted with the participation of work foremen and foremen in accordance with the requirements of SNiP III-21-73 "Finishing coatings of building structures".

2.2. Surface preparation and painting may be carried out at an air temperature of at least 10 °C and ventilation providing a relative air humidity of not more than 70%, the humidity of the structure surface should not exceed 8%.

2.3. Requirements for surfaces to be prepared for painting (GOST 22844-72).

Table 1

Type of finish

Permissible deviations

Limit sizes of local defects, mm

surface from plane

planes from the vertical walls

husks, usenkov, window and door slopes, pilasters

slope from the design position in width

shells

bulges (height) and depressions (depth)

Improved coloration

no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height up to 3 mm inclusive

1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 10 mm for the entire height (length)

1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 5 mm for the entire element

High quality painting

no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height up to 2 mm inclusive

1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 5 mm for the entire height (length)

1 mm per 1 m of height (length), but not more than 3 mm for the entire element

2.4. It is allowed to prepare for painting the surfaces of building structures and their junctions (corners, junctions, joints) that do not have deviations from the design position given in Table 1, as well as through and shrinkage cracks opened to a width of more than 3 mm.

Violations of fastening sheets;

Exfoliation of cardboard from gypsum from the end of the sheet by more than 20 mm;

Tears of cardboard with exposure of gypsum to a length of more than 30 mm;

More than two broken corners in the joint of sheets over the entire surface and more than one broken corner in one joint.

Surfaces lined with asbestos-cement sheets, to be prepared for painting, should not have rims, rips, sags, or distortions.

2.6. When preparing surfaces for painting, the following technological operations should be performed:

Surface cleaning;

Surface smoothing;

Jointing of cracks;

Priming;

Partial grease;

Grinding greased places;

Solid putty;

Grinding;

The second solid putty;

Grinding.

2.7. They clean the surfaces and cracks on it from dust, dirt, splashes and streaks of the solution using metal scrapers, a bream, artificial pumice stone fixed in a holder or hinged. Fat stains are washed with a 2% hydrochloric acid solution with a brush; efflorescence on the surface is swept away with brushes, the cleaned places are washed and the surface is dried to a moisture content of not more than 8%. Cracks are embroidered with a plaster knife or a metal spatula to a depth of 2 mm.

Surface priming

Soap primer at a construction site is prepared from a concentrated base (jelly) produced by the Stroydetal plant of the Mosotdelprom trust in the form of briquettes weighing 1 kg. The jelly is used for 10 days in summer and 20 days in winter. To prepare the primer, the weight part of the jelly is poured into two parts of hot water ( t= 80 °С). Then the composition is stirred until the jelly is completely dissolved, 3 parts of cold water are added and again thoroughly mixed. Before use, the primer is filtered through a sieve with 625 holes/cm 2 . The primer must be homogeneous, without traces of delamination, undissolved pieces of soap, and also without grains of sand and other debris. The primer composition is applied mechanized using an electric spray gun or airbrush. To obtain a uniform primer layer, the fishing rod is moved along the surface at a distance of 0.75 m from the seam, while simultaneously making smooth circular movements in a spiral. The second and third priming is carried out with a paint composition diluted with water to a viscosity of 40 - 43 seconds according to VZ-4, applied using a roller.

2.9. Before painting with oil compositions, the surfaces are pro-oiled with the following composition:

drying oil, kg - 1

pigment for subcolor, kg - 0.05 - 0.1

solvent (turpentine, gasoline, etc.), kg - 0.05 - 0.1

The second and, if necessary, the third primer is performed with a color scheme to match the color of the final color, diluted with drying oil or emulsion to a more liquid consistency.

The primer is applied to the surface in a thin, even, continuous layer, without gaps, carefully shading. The primed surface should have an even color without separate glossy or matte spots.

2.11. Putty used to fill cracks, sinks and leveling surfaces should be a homogeneous non-separating mass, have the property of strong adhesion to the surface, and be easily leveled on the treated surface. Putty is prepared centrally at the Stroydetal plant and delivered to the construction site packed in 15 kg plastic bags. At the place of work, the putty is passed for grinding in the CO-116 paint grinder (if necessary).

The first solid putty should be done with a composition that differs in color from the first primer layer and the partial grease layer.

2.13. Surfaces prepared for painting should not be bleached, and should not have deviations exceeding those given in Table. 2, cracks in places of puttying, emerging stripes and spots (GOST 22844-72).

table 2

Requirements for surfaces prepared for painting

Type of finish	Permissible deviations
Type of finish	surface from plane	from the vertical or horizontal of window and door slopes, pilasters, husks, mustaches	curved surfaces from the design position	rods from a straight line (for the entire length of the rod)
Improved coloration	no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height of up to 2 mm	1 mm per 1 m of height or length, but not more than 4 mm for the entire element
High quality painting	no more than 2 irregularities with a depth or height of up to 1.5 mm	1 mm per 1 m of height or length, but not more than 2 mm for the entire element

Surfaces prepared for painting should be checked in any place, but at least in three places for unevenness and local defects.

Painting surfaces of building structures indoors with water-based paints

2.14. Emulsion paints are produced by the industry in different colors, ready for use. Before use, the paint is thoroughly mixed, brought to a working consistency by adding water. It is impossible to apply water-based paints on surfaces previously treated with vitriol.

Painting surfaces of building structures indoors with oil paints

2.16. Oil paints are a suspension of the corresponding pigment (iron minium, mummy, ocher, etc.), rubbed on drying oil.

If the primer is applied by hand, it is prepared according to the recipe specified in paragraph 2.9. Drying oil is added with stirring to the thickly ground paint of the same color that the coloring composition should have for subsequent coloring.

Apply the emulsion using an electric spray gun or spray gun, see clause 2.8.

2.18. Flattening is performed with the end of a dry brush without pressure on the flute by reciprocal movements of the flute until the brush marks and streaks are completely removed from the surface (Fig. 6).

2.19. Trimming (if necessary) is performed with a dry trimming brush, applying light blows to the freshly painted surface (Fig. 7).

2.20. Painting must be carried out in compliance with SNiP III-4-80 "Safety in Construction" and "Fire Safety Rules for Construction and Installation Works".

Particular attention should be paid to the following: painting work at height should be carried out from inventory scaffolding, stepladders, universal trestle tables, mobile towers and other inventory devices. When performing work on flights of stairs, it is necessary to use special scaffolding (tables) with different lengths of support posts installed on the steps.

The working platform must be horizontal and have railings.

It is allowed to store painting materials only in places specially provided for by the PPR.

When preparing paint compositions with a paint grater, the following precautions must be taken:

prevent overheating of the electric motor during the operation of the paint grinder;

do not leave a working paint grinder unattended;

do not allow unauthorized persons who have not undergone special training to work on the paint grinder.

Persons at least 18 years of age who have undergone special training and have received a certificate for the right to work with these tools are allowed to work with electrified tools.

2.21. The front of painting works is divided into sections. The size of the occupants is determined taking into account the output achieved by the link, each occupancy should consist of an integer number of apartments in residential buildings, an integer number of premises in administrative, school and cultural buildings. In industrial buildings, the grip should consist of an integer number of spans.

2.22. Works on painting with oil and water-based compositions are carried out by specialized units of two people each: painters of the 4th and 2nd category. First, both members of the link prepare the surfaces for painting, that is, they smooth or clean the surfaces and expand the cracks. Then the painter of the 4th category performs the priming of the surfaces with an electric spray gun or roller. After drying the primed surface, the painter of the 2nd category performs a partial lubrication of individual places, then both members of the link perform continuous puttying of the surface, then polishing it. The second priming, puttying and subsequent painting of surfaces is carried out by both members of the link

fluffy_child , Good morning!

In the original, your rate sounds and is spelled out like this:

1.TERr62-16-9-Painting with water-based compositions of wall surfaces. previously painted with oil paint with a clearing of the old paint of more than 35%;

2.TERr62-17-9-Painting with water-based compositions of ceiling surfaces. previously painted with oil paint, with a clearing of the old paint of more than 35%

I draw your attention to the fact that the prices for walls and ceilings are different.

Further, I do not agree with what the estimators write earlier, the use of 45% of the total volume is incorrect, since the price itself already takes into account the amount of work on surface preparation by your 45%, see above. with clearing of old paint more than 35%

Now, what is included in the prices, namely, what is the scope of work with improved painting (see Appendix 2. Technical part TERr62):

1.Cleaning from pollution,

2. Clearing loose paint

3. Jointing of cracks

4.Prooiling cleared places and potholes

5. Lubrication of potholes and cracks

6. Grinding greased places

7. Putty of cleared and greased places

8. Sanding putty

9. Priming of puttied and greased places

Improved water-based wall painting

PAINTING WALLS WITH WATER-EMULSION PAINT

Below is the first part of the instructions for painting walls with water-based paint.

After completing all the preparatory work (leveling the walls, putty, wallpapering, etc.), you can start painting the walls. The requirements for the quality of the surface when painting putty walls (without wallpaper for painting) are the same as when painting the ceiling (smooth, smooth, without scratches, surface). It should be remembered that matte water-based paints are less demanding on surface quality than glossy ones.

When painting putty walls (without wallpaper for painting), three layers of paint should be applied, and the first layer is a primer. As a primer, you can use water-based paint, which is supposed to be the main color of the walls, although it is most preferable to use the primer recommended by the manufacturer of this paint.

When painting walls with wallpaper, two layers of paint are sufficient (primer is excluded).

Stage 2. Wear gloves.

Pour the water-based paint into a clean bucket (it is recommended to use Terraco 16 liter plastic buckets with a lid). While adding water, bring the milk to a consistency with a mixer. Attention! If you work with thick paint, then when it dries, more saturated joints of the paint stripes will appear.

White water-based paint, such as POWERTEX, can be tinted to the desired color using a tint, for example. When working with color (liquid or powder), it should be pre-diluted with water-based paint in a shallow dish, such as a glass (# 8776; 100 ml). Gradually adding the resulting mixture to the main paint (mixing with a mixer) to achieve the required saturation.

The approximate consumption of water-based paint for walls (a room with a ceiling area of 16 m²) is 6 -7 liters.

Wait until the foam settles.

To paint the walls, you will need a roller with a fur coat (a fur coat for a roller, creates the effect of orange peel, pile height 16-18 mm), a brush.

Wetting the roller with water-based paint using a bath, while the paint in the bucket, before pouring into the bath, mix thoroughly with a mixer.

Before starting to paint the walls, it is necessary to impregnate the coat of the roller with water-based paint, i.e. roll it out on a clean, even surface, for example, the back of unnecessary wallpaper laid out on the floor (1-1.5 m² is enough).

When painting putty walls (without wallpaper for painting), additional illumination is required to control the uniformity of surface coloring (in terms of thickness and texture of the paint overlay). In this case, a cartridge with an electric lamp is used ( energy saving lamp white light at 15 W, it is recommended to use a lampshade). Unlike incandescent lamps, it is safer and practically does not heat up the cartridge.

When painting walls with wallpaper, lighting with an electric lamp is not required.

Copying site materials is allowed. A link to www.otdelochka.ru is required.

Improved water-based wall painting

Painting the walls in the apartment with water-based paint with your own hands

Preparatory work

Paint preparation

Paint application

Video: do-it-yourself wall painting instructions

AT modern construction there are many new materials for interior decoration. And yet, painting the walls in the apartment is not inferior to its position. The use of water-based paint allows you to choose for the room perfect color and even texture. Various ways applications, as well as textured rollers will help to display incomparable design variations. The main thing is to adhere to the basic rules and technology that requires painting walls with water-based paint.

How to prepare the walls for painting is already a separate topic and has a number of its own features and nuances of execution. We will assume that the walls are already ready, and are either a flat surface with finishing putty, or lined with one of the materials that is designed for further painting, for example, wallpaper, ceramic tiles, cork boards, etc.

Preparatory work

The entire surface to be painted is released. A space of at least 1.5 meters near it is also cleared. It is best to glue the strip on the ceiling and on adjacent walls at the junction with the surface to be painted and cover the floor. In this case, it is desirable to close the floor a whole meter from the wall.

The first layer to be applied will be the primer. It is necessary to ensure reliable adhesion of the paint and the surface. In addition, the absorbency of the entire surface is leveled, and due to this, the paint lays down more evenly without staining. The primer must dry sufficiently to form protective film. It's about 4-6 hours. You can check the drying time by checking the instructions for using the primer, as well as by touch.

Paint preparation

Water-based paint is sold quite thick in consistency. To get a uniform matte finish along the entire wall, it should be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly.

for stirring better fit low speed drill with a special mixer attachment. If it is supposed to depict textured drawings based on water-based paints on the walls, naturally, you can not dilute the paint with water and use it in a thick form.

Paint preparation can be done in advance before work, but it should be re-mixed immediately before painting the walls with your own hands. Once the desired consistency is reached, the desired color can be given to the paint. For this, various colors are used, by combining which and adding certain portions to the paint, you can choose the desired shade. It is best to entrust this to the masters. Most water-based paint stores have a special machine for computerized paint selection and production. The main thing is that the automatic selection takes into account that the color will change during the drying process of the paint. Moreover, it is especially important to prepare a sufficient amount of paint with one shade for painting walls in one room, otherwise it will not work to get an identical shade manually. In extreme cases, enough paint is diluted to paint the entire wall, then the difference in shade on other walls can be attributed to lighting or to give a special effect. However, these are already too high decorative materials.

Paint application

Of the tools, wall painting technology involves the use of the following: rollers, brushes, sponges. Select the appropriate one to create the desired effect. You can evenly distribute the paint using a roller. The brush is best for painting small areas and the edges of the walls at the joints with other surfaces. You can decorate the wall with a sponge using a thick paint solution and creating a slight texture. Using rollers with various lengths pile and its rigidity also allows you to achieve different paint distribution effects. Most best option#8212; This is a roller with a soft pile of medium length.

The paint is poured in a small portion into a special tray for rollers. You can buy one at any hardware store and they are cheap. The perimeter of the wall is traversed with a brush so as not to risk staining adjacent surfaces with a roller.

Further, in order to make it easier to apply paint with a roller, you should initially drag it out in it. It is best to use a sheet of thick paper or a board. It is enough to roll the roller until the pile is completely saturated with paint from all sides. After that, the painting of the wall begins.

You can start from any position. Best on top. So streaks and drops, which will certainly jump off the roller, will not spoil the already painted places and will subsequently be rolled out by the tool.

How many coats of paint will be required?

In order for the paint to be evenly distributed on the wall covered with finishing putty and the color of the entire wall to be correct, it is necessary that the walls of the room be painted at least twice, and preferably three.

This is due not so much to the thickness of the paint layer, but to the fact that the next layer will not be absorbed into the putty, even covered with primer, but will complement the first layer of paint. So you can grind the optimal amount of paint in each layer with high quality and get a normal result at a lower cost. Master painters know that even using a large amount of paint in the first layer will not lead to a normal result, unless smudges appear, which are then difficult to get rid of.

Subsequent layers of paint are applied after partial drying of the previous one, and best of all, complete. All the time allotted for drying the helmet, the room must be isolated from drafts. Also, contamination of previous layers of paint should not be allowed.

Different ways to paint walls

textured surfaces

Often when painting with water-based paint textured types of cladding, such as decorative plaster, the base color of the base is applied first. In this case, a roller with a medium, stiffer bristle is used to fill all the recesses, or a spray gun (spray gun). After that, using a bald roller or sponge, the protruding parts of the surface texture are carefully covered with paint of a different shade. This gives volume and the necessary visual effects.

Adding texture with paint

Also, the texture can be given with the paint itself. To do this, do not dilute it with water and leave it thick. AT simple version when applied with a roller, an uneven, rough surface is obtained, dotted with pimples. The more liquid paint choose, the more vague the picture will turn out. In addition, rollers are used with a textured surface or with scraps of material, such as leather, with which you can combine colors and get a variety of ornaments. One has only to take into account that when obtaining textured staining, the consumption of material increases significantly.

In addition to rollers for forming textures, plain walls in your interior they can perfectly diversify the rollers for applications.

We paint the kitchen

To paint the walls in the kitchen, it is very important to choose suitable paint, which would not wear out much in conditions of constant cooking. To improve the properties of the paint, it is better to open it with an additional special varnish, also on water based. Naturally, it is desirable to paint not the entire kitchen, because the places working surface stoves with a sink are better to lay tiles.

Painting the walls in the bathroom

The walls in the bathroom can be painted with water-based paint only if there is sufficient forced ventilation, because few paints can withstand high humidity environments without consequences. During the painting process and during the drying period, the bathroom must be closed from drafts and not filled with steam or moisture.

However, the moment with the absence of a draft applies to absolutely all options for painting surfaces. This will affect the quality of the coating itself, and in the case of wallpaper staining, it can lead to peeling along the edges of the strips.

Description:
HOW TO COLOR A WALL. Valuable advice from professionals.
What tool to use, how to paint, how to apply paint on a wall, without streaks and smudges. Watch, practice and enjoy good repair with Marshall professional paints!

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paint

Before starting work, prepare the surface to be painted. This is very important, otherwise you will not be able to achieve the desired result. Before painting, check that the surface of the walls is even.

High-quality wall painting (2-3 layers) price: m2 / 180 rubles.

Progress:

Before painting the walls, peel off old wallpaper and putty. The work is long, but it must be done carefully. If it remains on the walls old stuff, then it will cause the new one to lag behind. The surface of the walls must be completely cleaned.
After cleaning the walls from the old material, proceed to the priming of the walls. Wall primer is used to free walls from dust. After the primer, a film appears on the wall, which will ensure the durability of the putty layer that will be applied on top of the primer.
After priming, the walls should be leveled. Used to level walls. gypsum plaster. The plaster is applied with a spatula, rubbing. Try to make the walls as even as possible. After applying the plaster, you need to let it dry. Check that the plaster has dried well enough.
After applying the plaster, the walls are puttied, so that the walls become smooth. It takes place in two stages: the first is to apply the starting putty, the second is to apply the finishing putty. The surface of the wall is flat, so the task is to make it smooth. Putty should also be applied with a spatula, only the layer should be thin.
The next step is grinding. Before sanding, make sure the putty is completely dry. For grinding, you will need a respirator and a bar with a special mesh. Grinding takes place in a circular motion, removing all irregularities. After grinding, re-coat the surface of the walls with a primer, wait until it dries.
The final step is painting the walls. Pour the paint of the desired color into a cuvette, dip the roller into the paint, apply the paint with a roller to the surface of the walls. Apply paint gradually and evenly. For good result it is better to apply paint in two or three layers. Then the surface of the walls is painted evenly and the desired result is obtained.

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