How do cacti grow? Reproduction, sowing and transplanting cacti. We grow a unique hybrid: how to vaccinate

This perennial plant, belonging to the aroid family, has other names: Ethiopian zantedesky, calla, lilikalla. It is considered to be the motherland South Africa. From there, the ancestors of modern gladioli "came" to us. That is why the principles of agricultural technology of these two plants have some similarities. But gladioli are more susceptible to disease, but with proper care, callas bloom longer, and it is not difficult to keep them on the site.

From about 1687 this tropical beauty started to cultivate. large plants with a white flower, can reach a height of 1.5 meters, they are descended from the Ethiopian calla. And there are varieties with multi-colored “spreads”, they originated from Calla Elliott (golden yellow) and Calla Remann (pink-red), such plants grow on average up to 70 cm, by the dormant period they usually completely lose their leaf mass.

It is customary to call a calla flower an inflorescence of an ear, similar to a yellow candle, which is wrapped in a “spread” (covering leaf). And the true flowers of the plant are inconspicuous and small, but they exude very pleasant aroma, which can be compared with vanilla. In modern varieties, the bedspread can be yellow, purple, orange, raspberry red, burgundy, pink. Sometimes during the flowering period, the color of the "spread" changes slightly. And all this against the background of elegant bright green heart-shaped arrow-shaped leaves, in some species they are covered with silvery spots. In Ethiopian callas underground part represented by a rhizome, and in other representatives - by tubers or tuber-rhizomes.

It grows very well in the garden and the Mango variety propagates. Peduncles gives abundantly, coloring "spreads"

Orange-yellow, coral-red spots gradually appear. The leaves have a beautiful silvery pattern.

Conditions for zantedeschia

In nature, calla lilies have chosen places for themselves around rivers, on moist, heavy clay soils, sometimes silty. Experience shows that not only clay soils the plant feels good, but also on loose loam. That is, sand, humus and peat can be added to the soil. The reaction of the medium is preferably slightly acidic. Choose a sunny or semi-shady site. It is better to plant callas near the pool, fountain or summer plumbing. The soil layer should not dry out, this will have to be especially monitored, because the plant big leaves, evaporating a lot of water. But it is also impossible to fill in callas, their rhizomes can quickly rot. Callas definitely need a dormant period (at least two months), otherwise they will not bloom.

Callas in the garden

When buying, inspect the tuber, it should not be overdried, shriveled and lethargic. The larger the tuber, the more likely it is that you will see flowers on the plant this season. Tubers purchased in February or March should be wrapped in a napkin and placed in the refrigerator, in the box where you usually store vegetables. It is necessary to “wake up” the tuber in April. To germinate, plant the tuber in a small pot to a depth of 4 cm. Please note that the side of the tuber with tubercles (buds) should be at the top, and the smooth side should be at the bottom. First, let it stand on a sunny window, then this pot can be taken out to the balcony or placed in a greenhouse on suburban area. In open ground permanent place transplant your callas by transshipment only when there is no chance of a return of night frosts. When transplanting, you can deepen the plant a little - to a depth of 5 cm. If it is not possible to germinate tubers, then it is allowed to immediately plant them in a flower garden in May days. Next, the transplanted plant should be watered. MirSovetov will remind you that good and plentiful watering after transplantation and in summer is especially important for calla lilies. In autumn, callas usually have enough natural precipitation. During the season, it is necessary to carry out 3 top dressings - with a diluted solution of mullein or liquid mineral complexes. It is worth remembering that with an excess of nitrogen, the “spreads” can become deformed and turn green, and few flowers will appear. Flowering continues from mid-summer until October. Each flower looks great for a month and a half, then the cover leaf begins to turn green, then it is better to remove the peduncle so that seeds do not form, in which case the tubers will increase.

About digging up tubers and storing them

Around October, the tubers must be dug up, having managed to do this before frost. Then rinse the underground part. Do not immediately cut off the leaves and roots, let the callas lie down in a cool place and dry, for example, in a garage or shed for 2 weeks. During this time, the nodules will stretch out everything useful material from the roots and leaf mass, better prepare for the dormant period. Then separate the leaves and cut off the roots. It is not necessary to immediately separate the children from the tuber in the fall (and there are 5-6 of them). It is desirable to divide the division in the spring, then the children will grow up, and the separation will be easier - according to the formed separating film. You can not divide the rhizome, then you will get a chic bush with many peduncles. For two or three years, callas adapt to your garden plot, you will learn to understand your plants, for their care they will repay you with beautiful unusual colors. They don't even need to be sprayed. different means from pests and diseases.

Storage of tubers is possible in the refrigerator (in containers for vegetables), on a glazed balcony, in the basement, the temperature should be about +5 degrees. In the basement, it is convenient to put the tubers in boxes, filling them with coniferous sawdust or peat.

How callas grow in greenhouses

I remember that callas were my class teacher's favorite flowers, so we always looked for these plants for her by the holidays. This is how they are now grown in greenhouses and greenhouses. Plant soil, volcanic slag and peat are taken as a substrate in equal proportions. Another 2 kg of manure is taken per square meter. Ridges are made from east to west, 15 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. Large vegetative cuttings are planted in September on prepared soils. The base of the false stem must certainly be at ground level, then all plants take root successfully. Now the plants need good watering for intensive growth of leaves. At night, the temperature is required from 6 to 12 degrees, and during the day it should rise to 14 degrees. By November 10, flower arrows will appear on the plants. After December 15, the first cutting is already carried out flowering plants. If the bedspreads are half-blown, then the callas will stand in a vase for 14 days. watering in greenhouse conditions carried out twice a week. Fertilizers (nitrogen and potassium sulfate) are applied 2 times a month.

Try to purchase calla varieties that are already adapted to the conditions of Russia. Then you will not have problems with rotting, drying out and loss of planting material. But imported plants often upset gardeners with the absence of flower stalks in the first seasons after planting on the site.

Callas are a perennial of the genus Aronnikova (aroid). The main place of growth is South America and Africa. Its relative is the calla bog (calla). In its genus, this is the only representative that grows only in the Northern Hemisphere.

This flower is also called Ethiopian calla or richardia. This is favorite plant many gardeners because of the spectacular unusual flower and beautiful leaves. It is suitable for both outdoor and indoor cultivation. room conditions.

Among the eight main types of callas, 3 are distinguished. They are used by breeders to obtain new varieties.

Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica)

This is a type of tall calla lilies, which are characterized by large foliage. Under natural conditions, its height reaches 1 m. This is a rhizomatous plant, and during the dormant period it does not shed its leaves and does not go into hibernation. Only its growth is suspended. The flowers are predominantly white or green.

Popular varieties:

Nicolai- a plant 1.5 m high. The leaves are dark green in color, large flowers (diameter more than 10 cm) of a greenish tint. Suitable for outdoor cultivation.

green goddess- a variety with unusually beautiful funnel-shaped flowers of a bright green hue. Plant height is about 0.9 m. Suitable for both open ground and indoor cultivation.

Albomaculata- a plant with a white large flower in the form of a candle. It has a vanilla aroma.

Schone Zweibruckerin- a tall plant (1 m) with dark green flowers, which are covered with a waxy light bloom. In diameter, the flower reaches 15 cm. Its heart-shaped leaves are light green in color.

Calla Remanna (Calla rehmannii)

Variety undersized species with a height of up to 0.5 m. A plant with narrow green leaves up to 30 cm, which sheds during the transition to winter dormancy. Small flowers of red, burgundy or pink. Propagation with tubers. Suitable for growing indoors.

Popular varieties:

Evening- the variety is distinguished by its uniqueness. The flowers are dark, sometimes black-blue or black-lilac. There are varieties with a purple border.

Indian summer- This rare variety with unusual compact forms. A bright red flower with a touch of pomegranate color.

Chameleon- the grade is ideally suited for cultivation in pots. A plant with dark green leaves that are covered with white speckles. The flowers are golden and peach tones.

Calla Elliott (Calla elliottiana)

The plant is characterized by a small height and large heart-shaped leaves with white dashes. The flowers are variegated, the inflorescences are yellow-green. This tuberous variety reproduces vegetatively.

Known varieties:

yellow corner- one of popular varieties calla eliott. The color of the stem from green gradually turns to yellowish. A flower with a pale yellow, sunny tint. The leaves are bright green speckled.

Vermeer- the plant is characterized by high decorativeness. Carved leaves with white dots. The edges of the flower are white with a smooth transition to burgundy towards the stem.

black-eyed beauty- the leaves of the plant are dark green in color with large white spots. A wide flower of a light yellow hue with a rich purple middle, in the center of which is a corn-yellow stamen.

How to grow callas outdoors

Callas are great for growing outdoors. Secured necessary care, they will delight with their flowering for a whole month.

The plant requires enough space in open glades. Doesn't tolerate summer heat well. Therefore, it is good to plant next to shrubs or trees so that they create light partial shade.

For callas, places where there are no drafts are selected. They can harm the plant.

soil for callas

The soil for growing plants should be fertile and slightly acidic. Ideal ground for a flower is a composition of peat and leaf humus, garden soil and sand. Before planting, be sure to drain to prevent stagnant water near the roots.

Since calla is a moisture-loving plant, it would be nice to allocate a place for it near a reservoir, where additional moisture will flow to the leaves from the air.

Planting calla lilies in spring

To plant a flower in open ground, they wait for the last frost to stop and sufficient heating of the soil and air. Usually this process is carried out in early May.

How to prepare planting material for planting

For this purpose, it is planned to use strong and strong tubers. In a wrinkled and lethargic state, they may not take root. Before planting, the tubers are processed. Acquired planting material held at the bottom of the refrigerator.

Having passed all the stages, the tubers are ready for planting.

How to prepare the site for planting

The site must be cleaned and dug up, adding sand and leafy humus in the same proportion. The soil must be provided with good drainage. Adding needles to attract earthworms, acidify the soil. Be sure to use a mineral complex fertilizer.

Planting tubers in the ground

In wells prepared in advance, plants are placed 5–10 cm deep. The wells are placed between each other no more than 0.4 m. This takes into account the size of the tubers. They cannot be pressed into the ground. The tubers are lightly sprinkled on top.

Many gardeners in early spring tubers are planted immediately in shallow pots, which were previously disinfected, and the soil was calcined in the oven. Planting depth - 3 cm. In order for the plant to wake up, in April they are placed on a balcony or in a greenhouse. When transplanting, the tuber is transferred with a clod of earth very carefully to avoid breakage of fragile roots.

Do not worry if there are no shoots for the first 14 days. The sprouts do not stretch up until the root system is formed, which lasts almost 30 days.

Planting callas in autumn

Planting calla lilies in autumn in open ground is not carried out. Before the onset of cold weather, they will not take root and die.

Garden calla care

Like many ornamental plants, callas need special care. If they are created optimal conditions cultivation, the flowering period will begin 2 months after planting, and will continue until the arrival of the first cold weather.

Watering and spraying for callas

The plant is characterized by such a physiological feature - the initial formation of the root system, followed by germination. In order for the roots to form properly, the tubers are not watered for 2 weeks after planting until the first shoots appear. This will come in about 3 weeks. During watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not get on the tubers.

It is better to moisten the soil around the edges of the hole. When the first leaves appear, you can water regularly in moderation up to twice a week, taking into account weather conditions.

If it's cool outside, reduce watering if it's worth it. hot weather- increase. Do not allow overmoistening or dryness of the soil.

Top dressing when caring for callas

Adding humus to the hole during planting will allow you to feed the plant with only mineral fertilizer throughout the entire growing season in compliance with the exact proportions. Otherwise, excess nitrogen will provoke an increased growth of calla greens, which will negatively affect flowering. Liquid fertilizers with a balanced content of potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are the best option when choosing top dressing.

If the soil is not provided with humus, mullein diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10 is brought in throughout the season.

If there is no need to collect seeds after flowering, it is worth cutting off the peduncle. This will prolong the flowering time.

Callas withstand temperatures of -2°C. In places with a more severe climate, it is grown as annual plant. Before night frosts come, the faded plant is dug up, keeping the green part. It is left indoors at a temperature of +5 - 10 ° C for 14 days.

At this time, there is a transition of nutrients from the leaves to the rhizomes and tubers. After two weeks, the leaves are cut off, and the tubers are washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and dried. At the final stage, the tubers are placed in well-ventilated packages and stored at a temperature of +5 - 15 ° C until spring.

Compliance with the temperature regime during the dormant period is necessary for further flowering, because it is at this time that the formation of a flower bud occurs.

Recommendations for growing calla lilies at home

In cold climatic conditions, where cold winters and cool summers dominate, it is unlikely that calla lilies will grow in a flower bed. Calla lilies with compact rhizomes are planted in pots and grown indoors.

Growing features

The natural place of growth of calla lilies is the openings of rivers with a mild and warm climate. Growing it at home, it is necessary to control soil moisture, especially during the growing season.

When forming a peduncle, a long period of illumination is required (at least 12 hours).

To successfully grow this plant, it needs a certain dormant period. Given our climatic conditions, this time falls on winter.

Pot and soil selection

This process should be given due attention. To grow Ethiopian calla pick up enough big pot, whose diameter is not less than 40 cm, and the height is 0.5 m. If you use a small container for planting, in case of top dressing, only the green part will develop, flowering will not occur.

The pot must have drainage holes. Pebbles or expanded clay should be laid at the bottom.

When choosing soil for planting, porous structures are preferred. Thereby excess moisture leaves the pot, providing the plant with natural respiration. Usually it consists of peat (1 hour), sand (1 hour), leaf humus (1 hour), soddy land (2 hours). You can cook it yourself, or buy it in the store.

Planting callas indoors

The landing process is almost the same for both cases. The bulbs are laid to a depth of about 10 cm. When planting several bulbs in a decorative container, keep a distance of 12 cm. This will allow the roots to develop well.

Features of care

Due to the peculiarities of the origin and structure of calla, caring for it is somewhat different compared to others. indoor plants.

Lighting

Calla needs good lighting throughout the year. Best grown in indirect sunlight. The plant feels its shortage especially in winter - there may be no flowering, only the development of stems is noted.

For white callas, lighting is required during the dormant period. In colored varieties, due to its lack, the characteristic color is lost.

Optimum temperature

For all types of calla lilies combination high temperature and low humidity is detrimental. This creates favorable soil for pests. With a sharp temperature drop, the plants stop flowering.

For white varieties, during the growing season, maintain a temperature of +18 - 20 ° C, for color - + 20 - 24 ° C.

Watering and spraying

Growing callas indoors, pay special attention to watering. Plants are demanding for regular watering and moist soil. Dryness causes cessation of growth. Especially in need of moisture are white callas growing in marshy places.

During their active growth watering should be plentiful, and is carried out when the topsoil dries up to 1 cm. After 15 minutes, the remaining water is drained.

Colored callas do not need such watering. It is impossible for water to stagnate in the pan, this can cause rotting of the root system. The water temperature for irrigation should be +18 - 22 ° C. It is required only when the soil dries up to 3 cm.

To create a flower comfortable conditions humidity in the room should be 70 - 80%. To help the plant, it is sprayed 2 times a day. Wiping the leaves with a wet rag is suitable, and placing wet expanded clay or moss on a pallet.

Callas foresee a change in the weather. With the appearance of dewdrops on the leaves and bedspreads, rain can be expected.

Necessary top dressing

In plants planted in a pot, as they develop, the roots grow, fill the pot, absorbing everything useful elements from the ground. If calla is constantly kept indoors, it needs timely feeding and complex fertilizer. This will allow the flower to develop properly.

If the plant does not receive the full amount of heat and sunlight, it needs fertilizer and top dressing.

For this purpose, universal complex fertilizers are used with an interval of 1 time in 2 weeks. Application nitrogen fertilizers unacceptable until the moment the flower begins to bloom. As a top dressing, urea or infused water is added to the soil. eggshell. Such procedures must be carried out carefully. With an excess of fertilizers in plants, the edges of the leaves turn yellow and dry out, or even die.

Calla care after flowering

After flowering, plants need to establish the desired temperature regime, proper lighting, watering, humidity and top dressing. These conditions will help the flower to move from one stage to another harmoniously, without stress.

White callas are characterized by slow winter growth. Their flowering occurs in winter and spring time. They rest in the summer. And the cessation of growth of colored callas, the fall of leaves occurs in winter and ends in March-April.

reproduction

The division of the rhizome

One of available ways reproduction of callas is considered to be division of the rhizome. During the period of active growth, abundant growth occurs, which surrounds the maternal rhizome. Having dug it up for the winter, the root processes and the main stem are separated and planted in pots. In the spring they can be planted in a flower bed.

Propagation of flowers from bulbs

When growing calla lilies, children quickly grow on its bulb. If it is not replanted annually, young shoots will cover the entire surface of the soil, which will make it difficult to care for them. Transplanting plants from one such flowerpot will allow you to get enough planting material.

When extracting a tuber from the soil, it is necessary to carefully manually separate each baby with a kidney. It can be used when planting, both for open ground and for a pot. A slight delay in removing the bulbs leads to the fusion of the children and the mother tuber. Then the rhizome is simply broken into several parts.

Crushed coal is used to sprinkle the resulting wounds.

Propagation with seeds

For callas, reproduction is possible with the help of seeds. The presence of pollinating insects in the room is not always observed. Often, in order to obtain seed material, pollen from one flower to another is transferred manually with a brush.

Seeds do not need to be stored. Fresh - the best germination. After collecting, immediately wrap in a damp cloth and leave in a warm room. After two days, they will begin to hatch. The swollen seeds are sown in moist soil for growing seedlings.

To prevent rotting, do not water before germination.

To moisten the soil, the pan is filled with water, which will flow through the drainage holes. The dried top layer of soil is sprayed with a spray gun.

When the first sprouts appear, the pot is placed in a bright place and the temperature is maintained at + 22 ° C. Seedlings dive into separate flowerpots after two months, and plants are planted in a permanent place in a year.

Some flower growers do not practice picking, they sow 2 swollen seeds in glasses. Having chosen a strong one among the shoots that have appeared, it is left, and the other is thrown away or transplanted into another pot.

Young plants require watering as the soil dries out.

Diseases and pests

Callas at home are affected by aphids and spider mites. Helps get rid of pests soap solution for application to leaves. If this remedy does not work, insecticides are used for treatment.

High humidity provokes damage to the flower by fungal diseases in the form of:

1. gray rot - the appearance of a grayish coating on flowers and leaves. Fungicides are used for processing;
2. brown rot - drying out of leaves and peduncles. To eliminate, stop watering, add hydrogel to the soil, treat calla with fungicides;
3. bacterial rot - darkening of the bases of leaves and peduncles with gradual wilting and yellowing of the ground part. The disease is practically not treated, the affected plants are destroyed;
4. anthracnose - the appearance and gradual increase brown spots on the leaves until a reddish circle with a light middle is formed. The affected parts are removed, the whole plant is treated with fungicides.

By fulfilling the basic conditions for keeping and caring for callas, the appearance of diseases and pests can be avoided.

For cutting, it is more practical to breed flowers in winter garden or greenhouse. And in an apartment or house, flowerpots with callas will become a great interior decoration that creates a good mood.

Calla - perennial herbaceous plant, which is very popular both in room and in garden culture. In areas with warm climates, these flowers can grow in gardens all the time.

In a temperate climate middle lane and to the north, calla lilies are planted in open ground in the spring, and dug up for the winter and stored in a closed, cool room. Thanks to large leaves and unusually shaped flowers, these plants become a real decoration of gardens and parks.

In the article you will learn everything about planting and caring for garden calla lilies in the open field, as well as how to propagate flowers.

Types and varieties of callas for growing in the garden

There are the following types of these plants that grow well in garden culture:

• Ethiopian calla;
• Calla Elliot;
• Calla Rehmanni.

Each of these species has many varieties. There are also hybrid intervarietal forms.

Ethiopian calla- a tall plant, reaching a height of 1-1.5 m. Its underground part looks like a rhizome. The flowers are large, their bedspreads are white.

The most popular garden varieties of Ethiopian calla:

• "Childsiana" - a variety with snow-white flowers and a bright orange, almost red center;
• 'Green Goddess' is a two-tone green and white variety.

Calla Elliot – tuberous plant reaching a height of 50-70 cm.

Its leaves are dark green in color, and the flower bedspreads have bright yellow or golden hues.

Elliot calla varieties:

• 'Black Magic' has a yellow flower spathe with a wavy edge;
• "Captain Chelse" - a variety that has a purple flower cover with a yellow edging;
• "Mango" - a hybrid form, characterized by flowers of an intense yellow-red hue.

Calla Rehmanni- a small tuberous plant, the flowers of which are painted in pale pink.

There are many varieties of this species, characterized by a variety of pink, lilac and even almost black flowers.

• "Bolero" - a variety with a crimson flower cover, dark at the base;
• "Captain Rosette" - a variety with flowers of a delicate pink hue;
• "Black Beauty" - the variety has flowers with a maroon, almost black, veil and a light stripe along the edge;
• "Magestic Red" - distinguished by monochromatic bright red flowers.

Planting callas in the garden

Callas are planted in open ground in spring at the end of April or at the beginning of May, when warm weather no night frosts. All types of these plants love slightly acidic soil. Therefore, before planting, it is necessary to prepare a nutrient substrate in advance, consisting of leaf humus and sand in equal parts. You can add some peat there for acidification.

A place for planting must be chosen so that the plants are in partial shade. The best place for planting callas - a site under the protection of tree crowns. It is possible that the flowers are in the sun in the morning, and in the afternoon - in partial shade. Do not choose windy places for them.

Very wet areas of land are not suitable for growing callas.

Despite the fact that calla is considered a marsh plant, in abundant watering only rhizomatous varieties of Ethiopian calla are needed. colored tuberous species and varieties are afraid of stagnant water in the soil, as their tubers often rot from this. For planting, choose well-drained areas, and watering is carried out as needed.

Before planting colored callas, it is necessary to disinfect their tubers in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then dry well.

This is done in order to prevent rotting of tubers. It is recommended to remove all damaged or rotten areas, and cover the sections with a solution of brilliant green or rub activated charcoal into them.

Rhizome varieties of white callas do not need to be subjected to this procedure. Their rhizomes rarely rot, they are not afraid of waterlogging.

When planting, tubers and rhizomes should not be buried in the soil.. They should be 3-4 cm below the ground. The distance between them should be at least 30 cm. During planting, complex mineral fertilizers: 30 g per 1 square. m area.

Newly planted callas are well watered. But you need to make sure that water does not fall on the tubers from above. It is best to water the soil between the rows of planted tubers. Rhizomes of white varieties can be watered from above, this will not bring them any harm.

Sometimes, before planting in the ground, flowers are germinated indoors in pots or containers. In this case, plants planted in the ground adapt better to new conditions, get sick less and bloom faster. When planting sprouted tubers or parts of the rhizome, it is necessary to protect their tender root system. Flowers are planted by transshipment along with an earthen clod.

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Garden calla care

Garden calla care is quite simple. This plant develops well in a wide temperature range from 15 to 25ºС, so it will not be difficult to create optimal conditions for it in the spring and summer. This flower tolerates heat with difficulty and only under the condition of abundant watering.

basis successful cultivation garden calla is timely watering. All species, and especially rhizomatous varieties, do not tolerate drought well. Therefore, they need to be watered regularly, making sure that the soil never completely dries out. Usually tuberous callas are watered twice a week, and rhizome - 2-3 times a week. With the onset of summer heat, watering should be increased.

Rhizome and tuberous callas are watered differently. Rhizome varieties are not afraid of excess moisture and do not suffer from root rot. Tuberous flowering plants should be watered so that water falls as little as possible on top of the tuber. This will prevent rotting and death of plants. During the entire growing period, they are watered between rows.

In the area where garden callas are grown, it is necessary to maintain high humidity. Usually that is why they are planted under the crowns of trees or near a reservoir. And regular watering helps to provide the necessary conditions for their growth and development. Just don't water the plants. Stagnation of water in the soil is just as harmful to them as drying out.

In the process of growing these flowers in the garden, they need regular weeding and loosening of the soil.. Weed the area as weeds grow 3-4 times a month. Loosening the soil is carried out after each watering to ensure air access to the roots of plants.

Usually, after fertilizing the soil at the time of planting, no further top dressing is required. Sometimes, if the soil on the site has insufficient acidity, you can water the plants with acidified water once a month. citric acid(1 pinch per 5 liters of water).

How to properly dig and store callas in winter

In autumn, callas are dug up and transferred to a cool place for storage. They are removed from the soil with leaves and roots no later than mid-October, since it is undesirable to keep them in the garden with the onset of frost.

The dug out tubers and rhizomes are stored in a cool, dry and closed room for about 2 weeks. During this time, the leaves of the plants will wither and the roots will dry out. After that, the withered leaves are carefully separated, the roots are cut off, and the rhizomes and tubers are washed and carefully examined.

In the presence of damage or decay, it is necessary to remove the diseased parts by smearing the sections with brilliant green or falling asleep with activated charcoal.

It is useful to withstand tubers for 1 hour in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The planting material prepared in this way is dried in a dry and ventilated room. After that, it is packed for storage.

Calla lilies are best stored in perforated paper bags at a temperature of about 10ºС.. The room in which the plants are stored must be dry and well ventilated.

During storage, the planting material is periodically opened and inspected to prevent waterlogging and decay. At the end of March or beginning of April, callas are transferred to the living quarters and kept at room temperature 2 weeks before landing in the ground. During this time, the buds on the tubers wake up, and the plants prepare for the start of the growing season.

Diseases of garden calla

Garden callas are most often affected by common diseases such as wet rot and yellow spot.

Wet rot is a bacterial infection. Her signs:

• Rot of peduncles and leaves;
• Sluggish rotten roots;
• The presence of rotten brown spots on the tubers.

You can save the plant only at the beginning of the disease during wintering or before planting in the ground. All diseased parts of the tuber are removed, the sections are covered with a solution of brilliant green. If the disease manifested itself in the summer, the diseased plant must be removed from the planting and destroyed.

Yellow spot is a viral disease. Its main manifestations:

• leaf curl;
• flower deformation;
• Light spots on the leaves.

Methods for the treatment of this disease have not been developed. For the purpose of prevention, thrips are destroyed - pests that are its carriers. Insecticides are used to control thrips.

Of the pests, aphids and spider mites most often attack garden callas. Timely processing planting preparations "Aktellik" or "Fitoverm" will help to completely get rid of harmful insects.

Reproduction of garden calla

Garden callas are propagated by seeds, tubers and rhizome division. The first method is used extremely rarely, because it is too time-consuming and lengthy. Most often, garden specimens are propagated by one of the vegetative methods.

For sowing, only varietal seeds are used. Seeds obtained from flowering plants in the garden, most often do not retain varietal properties. Before planting, they are germinated on a wet napkin or cotton wool at room temperature. This is done in February or early March.

The hatched seeds are used for sowing. They are planted in 2 pieces. in small temporary pots. Watering is carried out in the lower way - by immersing the pot in water. The emerging sprouts can be planted on a garden bed in open ground.

Tubers propagate colored callas. Daughter nodules are formed on their mother tubers.

During the wintering period, they ripen and are easily separated from an adult plant. The nodules are planted on a separate bed and looked after as if they were adult plants.

By dividing the rhizomes, the Ethiopian calla and its varieties are propagated. Its powerful rhizome, growing, gives separate root shoots, the so-called root children. In the spring, after wintering, the root babies are separated from the mother plant.

They can be planted in flower pots for germination or immediately in open ground on a separate bed for young plants. They are cared for like adult callas.

Now you know how to grow callas in the garden, and you can learn about caring for callas at home.

The experience of growing callas in a greenhouse of a candidate of agricultural sciences. Sciences K.S. Kocharyan:
"We make up the substrate for callas from plant soil, peat and volcanic slag in equal parts, with the addition of 1.5-2 kg of manure per square meter (soil pH 5, 5-6). In September, we plant large vegetative cuttings of callas in a greenhouse: in ridges 1.5 m wide and 15 m long, oriented from east to west Planting density - 10 pcs per square meter When planting calla lilies, it is imperative to ensure that the base of the false calla stalk is at the level of the soil, then there will be one hundred percent survival rate (when planting a little higher, the plants age prematurely and lose productivity, and when planted deeper, the earth gets into the leaf sheaths, which causes the leaves and the beginnings of inflorescences to rot).
After planting, the plants are watered abundantly, after which their leaves begin to grow intensively. If after the first watering the plants lean, they need to be corrected (restore vertical position). In autumn, to ensure intensive growth of leaves, the formation of inflorescences and their normal development, we maintain 6-12 degrees in greenhouses at night, 12-14 degrees in the daytime.
In the period from the end of October to the first decade of November, flower arrows begin to appear, and the first flowers are removed in the second half of December; mass cutting is carried out in January. The height of callas reaches a meter and a little higher; the diameter of the "veil" of the flower is about 15 cm. We cut the callas in half-opening (the spread of the coverlet is not more than 80% of its length) - then the flowers remain in the bouquet for about two weeks.
AT winter months the temperature in the greenhouse should be 14-16 degrees, but in extreme cold it can drop to 6-8 degrees at night (for plants, this goes without negative consequences). Regular, but moderate watering of plants is carried out twice a week. Once a month, we remove dying leaves and remove weak layers. Careful loosening of the soil in a greenhouse with callas (they have a superficial root system, root damage is undesirable) is carried out 1-2 times a month - only until the leaves close. We fertilize callas 2-3 times a month, applying per sq. meter 20 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of nitrogen fertilizers.
In the first year, the yield of callas is 40 inflorescences per square meter. meters, and in the second year the yield of inflorescences almost doubles.

In addition to the soil culture of calla lilies in a greenhouse for cutting, the experience of growing callas in a greenhouse in pots is also practiced - both cut inflorescences and flowering bushes callas in containers.

The answer was prepared by Ziborova E.Yu.

Cultivation of cacti by seeds is the main way of their reproduction. This is perhaps the most difficult and interesting section of culture. The question of when to sow cacti cannot be answered with calendar accuracy. The date of sowing depends on 3 factors: temperature, humidity and light.

In the vast majority of cacti, seeds germinate at an air temperature of 20-35 °. However, at temperatures below 27 °, the most dangerous enemy of seedlings develops - rot. Therefore, it is more expedient optimum temperature for sowing cacti, consider + 27-35 °. In addition to high temperature, it is necessary to create an increased humidity of the air and the substrate. This is not very difficult to do, having a greenhouse. Its description is given in the book about cacti by I. A. Zaletaeva (1972). In this greenhouse, it is easy to maintain the desired temperature and humidity, regardless of the time of year.

In greenhouses, when sowing, hotbeds with a thermostat are used, which maintain the set temperature. The well-known specialist in cacti, Walter Hage, believes that during the germination of seeds, the light effect of sunlight has greater value than thermal. The sun's rays contribute proper growth and the development of seedlings (especially after the first pick) and, conversely, have a detrimental effect on putrefactive and fungi. Currently, cultivators are quite successful in growing cacti with artificial lighting. For this, lamps are installed in the sowing greenhouse. daylight. However, it is very difficult to grow healthy full-fledged seedlings with only one artificial light; as a rule, seedlings stretch, the skin (epidermis) becomes thin, pampered. Such seedlings are easily exposed to fungal diseases, which often leads to the loss of a significant number of them. Our experience shows that it is better to sow cacti when the sun is peeking through the windows more and more often. In the conditions of Leningrad, this is the end of February - the beginning of March. The greenhouse or heated box containing the seedlings should be placed in a well-lit place. The direct rays of the sun are harmful to seedlings, and diffused sunlight is extremely beneficial. Only the right combination artificial and natural light makes it possible to grow healthy seedlings with the least loss.

Before you start sowing, you need to prepare the necessary utensils and land. There are many various tips choice of substrate for sowing. Each of the proposed recipes has its own advantages and disadvantages. The Austrian professor Buxbaum, for example, suggests sowing cactus seeds into finely crushed bricks. In his opinion, this provides seedlings with good aeration, uniform moisture, which in turn protects them from the development of algae - another pest of cacti. Since the brick does not contain nutrients, Buxbaum advises moistening it not with water, but with a solution of nutrient salts. A year later, the seedlings dive into the earth mixture.

Many authors recommend sowing cacti in well-washed river sand and making the first pick only in the second year, but sand, like brick, does not have enough nutrients, dries quickly and is very translucent. Frequent wetting of the sand, combined with high light transmission, is favorable for the development of seedling enemies - green algae. The roots of seedlings, which are in the sand for a year, “sick” for a long time when transplanted into the ground, which negatively affects the growth of seedlings.

Land for cacti should be sufficiently nutritious, porous, moderately moisture-intensive and sterile.

When sowing, we use an earthen mixture of the following composition: 1 part of well-rotted leafy soil, 1/2 part of fine, well-washed river sand, 1/4 of charcoal powder.

The leafy ground contains the necessary nutrients, so the seedlings develop a strong root system from the very beginning and grow well. Before use, it must be sifted through a fine sieve. The porosity of the earth mixture is achieved by adding river sand. Charcoal has the ability to absorb excess moisture and impervious to light. These properties reduce the possibility of algae spreading in the ground. Thus, the substrate recommended by us is sufficiently nutritious and breathable, does not dry out too quickly and is easily warmed up by the sun.

The prepared mixture must be subjected to sterilization in order to destroy the spores of fungi, which are always found in leafy soil. To do this, it is placed in a vessel, closed tightly with a lid and inserted into the vessel. bigger size; water is poured into the latter, heated to a boil, boiled for 10-15 minutes. Sometimes dry sterilization is used, i.e., calcining the earth on fire, but in this case the earth loses its beneficial features. The negative side of any sterilization is that beneficial soil bacteria are killed along with fungal spores, so sterilization should be done no later than two weeks before sowing, since only during this time the microflora is restored.

The seeds themselves, stored for some time in order to ripen them in fruits, can also be a source of infection. The pulp of the fruit gradually decomposes, and a breeding ground for diseases is formed. Therefore, on the eve of sowing, the seeds should be soaked for a day in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or chinosol. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seeds are completely immersed in the solution. After such processing of the land and seeds, they begin sowing.

For sowing, low pots or bowls are used, which are also pre-soaked for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate. The size of the pot or bowl is determined by the number of seeds and their size. First of all, the drain hole is closed with a shard. Then drainage is laid on the bottom: a layer of gravel, a layer of sand. Gravel and sand must be pre-sterilized. Pour the earth mixture over the drainage and lightly compact it with a rammer. The soil in the pot should be 2 cm below the edge of the pot or bowl to prevent the possibility of seeds falling over the edge of the pot when spraying and watering. The surface of the earth is carefully leveled. The seeds are carefully laid out, slightly pressed into the ground with a rammer and sprinkled with a thin layer of fine washed dry river or quartz sand so that they do not float when sprayed. Very small seeds (blossfeldia, parody) are not covered with sand. Seeds are best concentrated in the middle of the bowl, leaving a minimum distance between them. Each species should be sown in a separate bowl so that confusion does not occur. If this is not possible, then several types can be sown in one large bowl, fencing off each type with a plastic partition. After sowing, the soil is moistened. To do this, put the bowl in warm boiled or rain water so that only 1/3 of it is in the water, otherwise the earth settles very unevenly. As soon as the top layer of the earth begins to moisten, the bowl is removed from the water and placed in a greenhouse. The earth in the sowing bowls must be constantly evenly moist. Excess moisture, as well as lack, can lead to the death of small seedlings. One drying is enough to threaten the death of the entire crop. Seedlings should be watered from a small spray gun with well-settled or boiled water. Such water contains less lime and is less conducive to the development of algae, which are dangerous for seedlings.

AT natural conditions cacti quite easily tolerate temperature fluctuations. Crops also benefit from slight differences from warmer daytime temperatures to cooler nighttime temperatures.. However, a temperature drop of more than 10° has a negative effect on the development of seedlings: they fall ill and often die.

Most species of cacti, as long-term observations have shown, sprout on the 2nd-7th day. Seeds of the same species do not always sprout together: over the course of two weeks, more single shoots will appear. The first shoots, as a rule, are the strongest, the subsequent ones are weaker. If, after a two-week period, the seeds did not sprout or there were too few of them, you can try to raise the temperature in the greenhouse to + 40 ° during the day, reducing it to + 25 ° at night. You need to do this twice. Sometimes seed germination is delayed for several months due to the very hard seed coat. In prickly pear and tephrocactus, it is necessary to break the seed coat by sawing it with a sharp tool or rubbing the seeds between the planks, or soaking them in warm water for 3-4 days. Often, the seed coat does not fall off for a long time in ascended seedlings, which inhibits their growth. In this case, carefully remove it with tweezers. Sometimes seedlings lie on the surface of the earth, not having time to gain a foothold in the soil with their roots. In this case, with a pointed stick, you need to make a small hole near the roots, put the roots in it and carefully compact the ground around. Empty seed coats should be removed from the bowl, as they are susceptible to decay and promote the development of fungi. The success of sowing also depends on the degree of maturity of the seeds and their germination. The seeds of most cacti become viable only after they have passed the dormant stage. This property of theirs has been developed for a long time as an adaptation to life in the deserts. Indeed, the scorching heat and lack of moisture by the time the seeds ripen make it impossible for them to germinate immediately (unlike the plants of tropical rainforests!), but as soon as even the smallest amount of moisture enters the soil, the seeds sprout.

dormant period of seeds different types cacti is not the same and reflects the rhythm of their life in certain climatic conditions. In highland regions, where there are no long-term severe droughts, the seeds of cacti growing there are able to germinate immediately after they ripen (Rebutia, Ailostera, Frailea). In ferocactus, ariocarpus, cereus, the dormant period of seeds is much longer. Seeds of tephrocactus - plants of the highland regions of the Andes, where snow often falls and especially sharp seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations - it is necessary in winter, at minus 10-20 °, to put two weeks outside the window for freezing (stratification) and keep until sowing; only under this condition they germinate.

As soon as the first thorns appear on the seedlings, they proceed to the first pick. In our opinion, it is absolutely necessary. The soil in which the seedlings were located, as a result of constant moisture, becomes compacted and becomes airtight, which makes it difficult for the further development of the seedlings. In addition, with friendly germination, the seedlings will strongly crowd each other.

Dishes and land for picking are taken the same as for sowing. The sharp end of the picking stick makes a hole in the ground; then, with the other side, shaped like a spatula with a split in the middle, the seedling, together with a lump of earth, is removed from the bowl and lowered into the prepared hole (if the earth is very strongly compacted, it is better to shake it off the roots!). Seedlings dive to a distance of 3-6 mm and to such a depth that the cotyledons are on the soil surface. Very long roots need to be pinched to promote the formation of lateral roots. At the same time, tender roots are easily damaged, so the pickled cacti are placed in a greenhouse with bottom heating on well-moistened sand. Within 2-3 days, the seedlings are kept without watering at high humidity. After 2 days, they begin to carefully spray with hot (70 °) water from a spray bottle, and then gradually move on to watering. Only after that it is possible to accustom the seedlings to fresh air. Do it very carefully. At first, only a small gap in the greenhouse is left open. The duration of ventilation gradually increases, and watering is reduced, i.e., it is produced when the top layer of the earth dries up. You can spray the seedlings in warm sunny weather twice - in the morning and in the afternoon, so that by the evening, when the temperature begins to drop, they have time to dry out.

Picking is done three times: the first, as soon as the seedlings develop the first spines, that is, around April, the second - in early June and the third - in mid-August. Our many years of experience show that picking seedlings in the first year has a beneficial effect on their growth.

Necessary condition for normal growth and further development cacti is a dormant period. To do this, it is necessary to slightly change the mixture of earth for seedlings in the third pick. To it is added a small amount of clay soddy soil and crushed brick, no larger than buckwheat. Moisture-retaining clay will make it possible to water the seedlings less often, and brick chips absorbs excess moisture, giving it to the soil as it dries. The top layer of the earth must be sprinkled with fine gravel. This limits the possibility of rotting of the root collar and prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of the earth. At the end of summer, boxes or bowls with seedlings are placed closer to the upper light, and the room where they are located is heavily ventilated. Watering is gradually reduced. Seedlings overwinter at 10-12 °. Cold and dry wintering reduces the possibility of fungal development, helps to maintain the shape of seedlings and prepares them for flowering.

Caring for seedlings in the second year of life is almost no different from caring for adult plants. In the second half of March, seedlings after wintering are transplanted into fresh soil. It should contain more leafy soil and less clay soil. Before planting, the roots are carefully examined and processed: sharp knife cut off most of the roots, leaving roots about 1 cm long; then dip them several times in hot water(70-80 °), but so that the root collar is not in the water. After that, the roots must be powdered with sulfur powder. Seedlings can be planted only the next day. Before the appearance of young roots, seedlings shade, support high humidity air. Instead of watering, they are limited to spraying 2 times a day. Plants treated in this way will soon form a whole bunch of roots. Well-rooted seedlings throughout the summer do not shade even in the most sunny days, but at the same time it is necessary to maintain high humidity. If in winter time plants were kept under one artificial light, then they should be accustomed to sunlight gradually, and in the hottest time of the day a shade is needed! By the end of summer, seedlings of the second year of vegetation grow so much that they crowd each other and therefore in August they have to dive again.

In order to grow healthy seedlings, in addition to agricultural technology, it is necessary to know their diseases and measures to combat them. Young plants are more susceptible to disease than adults. The most dangerous enemies: mold fungi and rot. One of the causative agents of the so-called wet rot is a fungus cactus phytophthora (Phytophtora cactorum). Seedlings damaged by phytophthora first become transparent, watery, then turn yellow and finally completely limp, leaving behind a brown slurry. Such plants should be immediately removed with a small amount of earth, and the place where they were located should be treated with a disinfectant solution - chinosol or TMTD preparation (2 g per liter of water). It is better to re-pick all healthy seedlings from this bowl into fresh soil. blue vitriol, recommended by some authors in the fight against fungal diseases, burns the plant and harms the beneficial microflora. The first watering after sowing and picking is also best done with a solution of chinosol. In the fight against fungi, prevention is essential. In addition, it must be remembered that the development of fungi is facilitated by the lack of sunlight, low temperature, excessive dampness, stale air.

Another enemy of seedlings is algae that develops on the surface of the soil in sowing bowls. They make the soil airtight. It is difficult to fight them, therefore it is easier to create conditions in which algae cannot develop: water the seedlings with boiled water, avoid excessive soil moisture.

It is often necessary to observe the appearance white plaque(the so-called peel) on the surface of the substrate and on the bottom of the seedling. The formation of a crust is associated with an excess of lime in the substrate. With frequent watering, the surface layer of the earth becomes highly alkaline, which is detrimental to seedlings. Simultaneously with the formation of the crust, the development of blue-green algae also occurs. In this case, it is necessary to pick the seedlings into fresh soil. If the crust is just beginning to appear, you can water the crop with water slightly acidified with acetic acid (2-3 drops per liter of water). This procedure must be repeated several times. Often the formation of a crust comes from an excess of lime in the irrigation water. In this case, seedlings should be watered only with boiled, distilled or rain water. To avoid the formation of a crust, you can cover the topsoil with a thin layer of expanded clay. Plant seedlings in such a way that the root neck is on expanded clay. This will protect her from contact with the ground.

Growing trichocereus from seeds

Germinating cacti from seeds is necessary in sandy soil with good drainage. Ready land for cacti will be an excellent substrate, but with the condition of its sterility. Use small ceramic pots 5 x 5 cm as they allow the soil to drain water and prevent root rot. The temperature during seed germination should be maintained at 25-28 degrees Celsius.

For effective water supply, you can stretch small cotton wicks through the drain and lower them into a container of water. From above, the drainage is covered with prepared soil and a cactus seed is placed in the center. The seed should be sprinkled with a small pinch of earth. The pot should then be placed in a transparent plastic container with a lid and exposed to light. Watering during germination should be done as the soil surface dries with a sprayer.

Trichocereus traditionally germinate within two weeks. The first seedlings are elongated and spherical. After the seeds have germinated, replace the plastic lid of the container with gauze to allow for air exchange. Seedlings are more sensitive to light than mature plants. Normally, small cacti should be dark green. If they are reddish or brown, they are receiving too much light and need to be darkened. If they look yellowish then they are not getting enough light.
When the seedlings reach 3-4 cm, place a thin layer of aquarium gravel on top of the soil. This gravel will support the seedlings and protect the surface from drying out. If green mold or moss appears on the surface of the soil, it must be carefully removed.

After 4-5 months (when the spines of the cacti are fully formed) remove the gauze and shade the cactus for one or two hours a day, for a speedy adaptation. Water wicks can be removed and you can proceed to traditional watering.