Mandatory priming of the walls before laying the tiles. Coating waterproofing: stages of work Do I need to prime before tile

Please note that the prices indicated in the article are current in the spring of 2017.

First and foremost: do I need to prime the wall before laying the tiles? In my opinion, a primer is not needed only if a few conditions are met:

The wall surface is solid(that is, it does not have crumbling or peeling coatings - weak plaster, paint, etc.);
It provides excellent adhesion tile adhesive, that is, it has a relief surface with good adhesion;
The wall is not dusted. Dust will noticeably weaken the adhesion of the adhesive to the base;
The surface does not absorb water well. and, accordingly, will not cause the tile adhesive to dry prematurely.

Ideal scenario - laying tiles on brick wall solid red brick. The fired clay has a low hygroscopicity, and the masonry joints provide good adhesion to the adhesive.

A primer is absolutely necessary if:

You are going to lay tiles on walls with loose plaster;
The base for laying tiles is heavy concrete. On the surface of a monolithic or slab partition, cement glue does not hold well.

Do I need to prime the floor before laying tiles on the screed or floor slab? Let's just say it's highly desirable. Otherwise, the adhesion of the tile to the base will deteriorate due to the absorption of water by the floor and, accordingly, the drying of the adhesive before the end of the hydration of the cement.

How to prime

What soil to use for ceramic tiles? The answer depends on the type of surface.

Plaster, masonry, drywall, GVL

For GVL, brick and block walls (including plastered), a penetrating acrylic primer. It solves several problems at once:

Glues the dust remaining on the surface and thereby ensures the most reliable adhesion of the tile adhesive to the wall;
Penetrating into the structure of the wall material, increases its strength;
Reduces water absorption and stabilizes the drying time of the adhesive.

Here are a couple of samples of penetrating primers:

Image

Description

Knauf Tiefengrund: ready to use acrylic primer deep penetration. Country of production - Russia. Suitable for highly absorbent surfaces (GKL, gypsum and chalk plasters). Price per kilogram - from 65 rubles.

Eskaro Aquastop Professional: concentrated moisture insulating primer. Country of origin - Russia. Eliminates the penetration of moisture into the structure of the main wall (including from tile adhesive); particularly ideal for bathroom walls and other damp areas.

Promotes better adhesion of the layer fine finish with a base.

May be added to mortars. Before use, it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Price per kilogram - from 300 rubles.

Concrete

What kind of primer to apply on the floor or wall of monolithic reinforced concrete under porcelain tiles or tiles?

Here the main problem will be the adhesion of tile adhesive to a weakly absorbent base. The simplest way increase the adhesion force - an increase in the surface area that can be achieved by making the base rough, giving it a relief texture. To do this, apply adhesive quartz (with the addition quartz sand) primers.

Is it necessary to prime the floor with a leveling screed? Let's put it this way: the adhesion primer will definitely not get worse, while it guarantees reliable adhesion between the tile and the base. Whether the tile will hold securely enough without priming is unpredictable; primer will eliminate the element of chance.

Let's get acquainted with the samples of adhesive soils:

Image	Description
	Knauf Betokontakt: intended for application on concrete bases before fine finishing (in particular, before laying tiles). Average consumption - 350 grams per square meter. Country of origin - Germany. Price per kilogram - from 100 rubles.
	Prospectors Concrete-contact: primer for substrates made of heavy concrete, which improves the adhesion of the finish to the base. Country of origin - Russia. Consumption - from 250 grams per square surface. The price of a kilogram is from 70 rubles.

Adhesive primers are produced colored (usually reddish or pink colors), which allows you to visually control the priming process.

Tile

Can tiles be laid on old tile? And if so, how do you pre-prime it?

I answer both questions:

Can;
On the old tiles the already familiar quartz primer is applied. In particular, the manufacturer of concrete-contact "Prospectors" specifically stipulates such use of a primer; after its application, the tiles can be pasted over with a new tile using ordinary tile adhesive, plastered or putty.

Plywood

Is an adhesive or penetrating primer suitable for plywood or chipboard?

No. In the case of materials based on hygroscopic cellulose, the purpose of the primer is to prevent the base from absorbing moisture. However, any soil water based will only cause the chips or veneer to swell. I lay tiles on plywood like this:

The base is twice impregnated with drying oil heated in a water bath;

It is desirable to impregnate the sheet on both sides and along the edges, otherwise uneven swelling of the veneer can lead to its deformation.

For tile stickers, I use sanitary or universal silicone sealant , dotted on the tile. High-quality sealant (for example, products from Henkel) adheres perfectly to wood impregnated with drying oil. For tile joints, I recommend using the same sealant or a special silicone grout, which is easy to match the color of the finish.

How to prime

How is the floor primed before tiling? How to properly prime the walls under the tile with your own hands?

For different primers - different technologies.

penetrating soil

All types of penetrating primers are applied in two steps without drying before applying the second coat. The surface of the wall must be pre-cleaned of loose plaster, paint, grease and oil stains. Tools - wide brush, roller or spray.

adhesive primer

The instructions for surface preparation are the same, but the primer is applied in one layer using a roller.

Priming with any soil is carried out at a base temperature of at least +5 degrees.

Useful little things

In the end - answers to a couple of questions that the reader may have.

How much dries primer before laying tiles on a primed surface?

Penetrating primer applied in two stages - at least 4-6 hours. This time can be extended up to a day high humidity in room.

Concrete-contact dries completely in 12 hours at relative humidity 50% and a temperature of +23 degrees. At 65% and 20°C the drying time is extended to 24 hours.

How to wipe primer from the tiles, if she had time to grab?

Acid-based household cleaners. For example, German Sillit or domestic Sanitol. With the same success, you can use concentrated vinegar essence (of course, with all precautions - you will have to work with gloves and a respirator).

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions of the dear reader. To learn more about primers used before laying tiles, the video in this article will help you. As always, I look forward to your additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

From the author: hello dear readers. Renovation in the kitchen and bathroom is not complete without laying tiles. Which is quite logical, because it is a multifunctional and visually attractive material. Great if you have a proven master you can trust repair work and listen to advice. What if it doesn't exist in your area? Today we will conduct a step-by-step debriefing with recommendations from experienced craftsman and answer the current and frequently asked question: is it necessary to prime the walls before laying the tiles, and how to lay them correctly.

Selection and layout of tiles

Considering design, functionality and technological nuances, there are many things to consider. Let's try to figure it out together. First of all, when choosing a tile, you need to decide on the design and type of layout, and only then go to the store. Exactly in this order, and nothing else!

The basic rule of layout is to arrange the tile so that there are no obvious “stubs” and trimmed pieces of the tile, to create an ideal visual picture. This is difficult for both the beginner and the masters, and there are two reasons for this. The first - when laying, you do not consider it necessary to pay attention to the final visual perception. And the second - you are forced to work within a strict budget. What to do in this case? Measure out, look for layout options, combine them and do not forget that savings during repairs are not always justified.

Ways of laying tiles:

classic or “seam-to-seam” - rows of tiles are stacked end-to-end with one another, forming long and perfectly even tile joints;
with an offset - the tile is laid according to the principle of imitation of a brickwork pattern;
rhombus - a tile in the form of a square or rectangle turns 90 degrees, forming diagonal tile joints;
at an angle, herringbone with an attachment - to obtain a square or square tile pattern rectangular shape placed diagonally: one to the left, the other to the right;
modular installation;
combined.

You should also pay attention to the following parameters:

texture;
color, clarity of the picture;
configuration;
thickness, dimensions (all tiles must be the same thickness and match in size: height and width) and ideal angles of 90 °;
absence of defects: cracks, chips, small cobwebs on the glaze of the tile;
The material must be suitable for wall cladding.

We recommend that you arm yourself with approximate calculations by the time you go shopping total area, take measurements, determine the location of sockets, switches, pipes and take into account that about 10% more will be required to fit your number of tiles.

Important: make sure that all tile packages are from the same batch. Unfortunately, you may encounter the fact that the tiles, having the same characteristics, will differ in color palette!

Wall surface preparation

The tile is laid only on an ideal surface, so do not be lazy and make every effort to eliminate defects. This is difficult process, but extremely important, especially for a beginner. What will need to be done:

remove furniture from the wall;
if possible, we remove the plumbing;
we evaluate the level of wall surface difference with a spirit level: if there is a difference of 5 cm or more, we consider the option of using moisture-resistant drywall as a base for tiles. Many people ask themselves: is it necessary to use moisture-resistant GKL. So, in the bathroom, only (!) Moisture-resistant drywall is mounted in front of the tiles;
hide pipes, sewer outlets, electric wires(provide option possible repair or substitutions)
we clean the wall from the old coating, stains, fungus;
if you had paint on the wall, remove and make notches;
plastering, checking building level surface and primed. The primer is necessary for adhesion (adhesion of other finishing materials with working surface). Under no circumstances should this procedure be neglected;
Apply two layers of coating waterproofing.

Your wall is ready to go and it's time to tile!

Choosing the type of solution

Now you can think about choosing a solution for laying tiles with your own hands. Previously used for this cement-sand mixture with the addition of PVA or Bustilat glues. You can also use the old and proven methods, but why? Stores offer ready-made formulations two types: in plastic buckets(mastics, ready to use) and in bags (dry mixture, which only needs to be diluted with water).

What do the professionals use? Almost everyone prefers dry mixes, as they make it easier to adjust the layer thickness and make changes. Mastic is used only if there is an ideal drywall base.

Getting ready for work

Wall cladding and tiling require special tool, so before starting work, prepare everything according to the list:

Master OK;
notched and rubber spatulas;
hydraulic level or laser level;
drill with a special nozzle for kneading glue (you can do without it);
roller for work with a primer;
metallic profile;
wire cutters;
tile cutter or grinder with a diamond wheel;
tiled plastic clamps in the form of crosses;
corundum bar for grinding the edges of tiles;
nozzle for a drill "ballerina", for obtaining round holes on the tile.

Advice: as part of the savings, you can rent a drill, grinder, tile cutter on the construction market.

And, of course, you need a mortar or mastic, a waterproofing and primer mixture, a grouting compound. How to calculate correctly required material? In the case of tiles, this is a mathematical calculation of the area; with mixtures, glue and mortar - careful reading specifications and terms of use. And what to do with grout? We suggest using our online calculator, for this you need to enter in free fields required dimensions and click the "Calculate" button.

Wall tiling: step-by-step work technology

Before us is a prepared primed wall with perfect surface, two layers of coating waterproofing, defects have been eliminated, tiles have been calculated and selected, a mortar or glue is at the ready - let's proceed to tiling the walls.

The process itself, no matter how the masters scare us, is simple. There are a lot of video recommendations on how to lay the tiles, so you can always use visual instructions.

Let's go through the steps classical scheme styling.

We mentally determine the sequence of work: decide from which angle you will start work, draw up a map of the layout of the tiles and the installation of sockets, switches, faucets and pipe outlets. If necessary, stack the tiles in the order in which you will be gluing them to the wall. You can make notes on the tile itself with a pencil, where the top and bottom are, indicate the direction of the drawing.

We mark the wall. There are several points in the room suitable for starting. Option one: we start marking from above, so that visually you have a whole row in front of your eyes. When calculating, keep in mind that up to 3 mm is allocated to the gap between the tiles.

The second option: you can do it simply by laying out the tiles starting from the corner and focusing on the floor line, but this is provided that your floor is perfectly level and you have previously checked it with a building level. If you do not plan to lay tiles on the entire wall, you can easily start marking from the floor:

the first row begins with an indent from the floor the size of one tile element, we can say that we are making a full-fledged second row;
bottom line can be fixed with metal profile and dowels, after adjusting it according to the construction level;
draw a wall with a marker or pencil, highlighting the work area.

Important: when repairing, tiles are first laid on the wall and only then on the floor!

We prepare glue or mortar and arm ourselves with a notched trowel:

apply the mixture with a spatula to a small section of the wall;
we wet the tiles with water before laying, then apply the solution, so we prevent the glue from drying out and keep the moisture we need. We press the tile to the wall and align it taking into account the level indicators;
we check how the glue is distributed over the surface, and whether voids have formed under the tile, we immediately remove the excess with a sponge or a damp cloth. This can be determined by light tapping with a rubber or wooden mallet;
install plastic clamps in the form of crosses and lay the second tile;
repeat the operation and do not forget to control the level of the row with a spirit level.

Important: tile joint should not coincide with the joints of the tiles, thanks to the clamps you can maintain the same distance between the tiles.

We overwrite the inter-tile seams, having previously cleaned the joints of debris and dirt. Please note that grout may be different shades, so you can easily match it to match the tile or contrast with the main background. How to rub properly:

prepare the grout according to the instructions;
rub into the tile joint area with rubber spatula, the excess on the surface of the tile is immediately wiped with a damp sponge;
in the bathroom and in the kitchen additional application of sealant is required to protect against high humidity.

Laying tiles - technologically difficult process. Compliance with all the nuances of technology will create a reliable flooring capable of lasting for a long time in any conditions. In rooms with high humidity(bathroom, bathtub, shower room) without fail waterproofing must be installed. It will prevent damage to the materials that make up the floor from moisture.

What are the waterproofing methods?

Waterproofing under floor tiles may be:

roll or pasting;
coating.

Roll waterproofing

Roll waterproofing is a material based on polyester or fiberglass. It is necessarily impregnated with special hydrophobic substances - usually modified bitumen.

For styling roll waterproofing it is necessary to use a special torch or moisture-resistant adhesives. Therefore, installing the material with your own hands on the floor can cause certain difficulties.

To mount the roll web on the prepared base, several overlapping strips are spread, after which they are carefully glued. Another significant disadvantage is short term waterproofing service.

Coating mixtures

The group of coating waterproofing under ceramic tiles includes many mixtures that are easily applied with a roller or brush. For the installation of a moisture-resistant floor layer, large labor costs are not required.

Depending on the basis, coating materials are divided into the following groups:

polymeric;
bituminous;
cement-polymer.

Bituminous mixture

Bitumen mix for tiles is inexpensive, which attracts many buyers. But the material has many disadvantages. This is the need to work with molten and hot bitumen, which requires certain experience and skills.

Bituminous waterproofing is not durable. Regulatory term services of such coverage - 5-6 years. After applying the molten bitumen in the room, it remains for a long time bad smell from which it is impossible to get rid of.

Polymer-cement mixtures

Polymer-cement mixtures for ceramic tile flooring are the best option, combining good quality and low cost. The material is made from cement, polymer additives and mineral fillers. It has high vapor permeability and provides reliable protection from moisture.

Cement-polymer floor waterproofing is sold as a dry powder, which is mixed with water before use. After preparation, the solution has a limited time of use, so for its application it is necessary to have certain skills.

Another drawback of the material is its absolute non-plasticity. This negatively affects the service life of the waterproofing layer.

Polymer compositions

The best materials for waterproofing a tile floor are one-component polymer mixtures. The ready-made solution is applied without much difficulty on the prepared base and provides reliable protection. The resulting coating is characterized by high plasticity and long term services. The only drawback of the material is the high cost.

Features of the preparation of the base

Before waterproofing the surface and installing the tiles, it is necessary to properly prepare the base, which implies the following:

the base must be perfectly dry and free from contamination;
in the presence of oil stains or traces of paint, the floor is cleaned with mild degreasers or special detergents;
minor irregularities or damage to the floor are removed by grinding or milling;
if necessary, you can treat the base with a stiff brush with a metal bristle;
if cracks or deep potholes are found, they are sealed with a mortar or special putty;
it is recommended to fill the seams between the walls and the floor with a special sealant;
after setting the surface, a primer is applied to it, which improves the adhesion of the base to the waterproofing;
after drying the material proceeds to the main work.

Tile installation technology

Laying technology tiled flooring on the floor with waterproofing does not differ from the method of work when there is no moisture-resistant layer. The material is installed using special glue, followed by jointing. The installation of the waterproofing itself depends on its type.

Waterproofing device by coating method

To create a high-quality waterproofing layer by coating, you must follow the following instructions:

A one-component waterproofing mixture is diluted with an organic solvent in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer.
The first layer is applied to the floor with a wide brush, going to the surface of the walls by 20 cm.
The recommended layer thickness is 1-3 mm. You should not try to lay a lot of waterproofing mixture at a time.
After complete drying of the surface, a second layer is applied in a perpendicular direction to the first.
Without waiting for the complete setting of the surface, it is sprinkled with quartz sand to improve adhesion with tile adhesive.
After the surface has dried, excess quartz sand is removed with a stiff brush.
Ceramic tiles are being installed.

Installation by pasting method

When carrying out waterproofing work with a pasting method, it is necessary to adhere to the following instructions:

Rolls are spread on the prepared floor. waterproofing material to straighten it up.
The floor surface is treated with bitumen-based mastic.
Prepared strips of material are laid on the floor with an overlap of 100-150 mm.
The floor surface is heated with a special burner or hair dryer to a temperature of +50°C.
Rolled waterproofing becomes plastic and sticks to the floor.
All joints formed on the floor surface are additionally treated with mastic.
After the waterproofing layer has hardened, a primer is applied to increase adhesion to the tile and adhesive.

Laying tiles on the floor with a screed device

If the subfloor is uneven, it must be leveled before laying ceramic tiles, which is often done using special dry mixes. They can be leveling and self-levelling.

In the first case, the thickness of the poured screed can reach 100 mm. For the device of the subfloor, guide beacons are installed, taking into account required level the created base under the tile. The leveling mixture is carefully distributed over the entire surface using a rule. Only then can you start laying tiles.

From self-leveling mixtures, you can create a screed with a thickness of 10-20 mm. They have a liquid consistency, so they spread over the entire surface of the floor, creating a uniform layer. On the resulting perfectly even and smooth base, you can easily lay any tile with minimum consumption glue.

Why is waterproofing carried out?

The main purpose of the waterproofing layer, which is laid before installing the tiles, is in warning negative consequences caused by water intrusion into the floor structure. These include:

the appearance of mold and fungus, which adversely affect the human body;
destruction of the floor structure;
seepage of water into the lower floors due to emergency water leaks.

This result can be achieved only by observing the technology of work on the installation of a waterproofing layer of high-quality and modern materials. It is best to involve professionals who have relevant experience in this process.

Video: Laying tiles

In order for the surface of the base to be ready for subsequent finishing work, it is primed with special compounds. This technology allows you to ensure good adhesion of the tile and the surface of the wall or floor. This allows the tile to adhere firmly to the base. Finishing in this case is durable and aesthetic.

Applied without fail. It is not recommended to skip this step. There are many on sale today various means allowing you to get the job done quickly and efficiently. How to choose and apply a primer, you need to know in detail before repairing.

General characteristics of the primer

studying, what primer to treat the walls before laying the tiles, it should be considered General characteristics. Such solutions have a special composition. It is applied to the walls, floor before carrying out various finishing works. The primer improves the adhesion between the tile and the substrate.

On sale are products that have good water-repellent characteristics, and also prevent the formation of fungus and pathogens.

Primer components differ in film-forming properties. The composition may include resins, drying oil, as well as other substances. Their type and ratio varies depending on the manufacturer and application of the primer. In the production of such compositions, new scientific developments are used, which ensures high reliability of the presented funds.

Does the base need to be primed?

Many property owners who carry out repairs on their own are interested in Do I need a primer before laying tiles? At professional builders no such question arises. Regardless of the characteristics of the base, it must be primed. This is especially necessary for loose, soft or crumbling surfaces. If they are not pre-treated, the tile simply crumbles after a while.

Even a solid base of concrete blocks is recommended to be primed before finishing works. This will qualitatively impregnate the pores of the material. The tenacity of the solution when finishing the surface with tiles increases significantly.

The primer allows you to save on the amount of tile adhesive. Its consumption when applying tiles on a treated base is significantly reduced. Wherein appearance finishes will be better. Tiles can be installed evenly.

Primer types

A high-quality primer, the price of which will correspond to the capabilities of the buyer, is today represented by various manufacturers. However, it should be understood that there are two main types of them.

The first category is a primer for absorbent surfaces. This, for example, can be brick, putty or concrete. Such solutions penetrate deep into the base. They are available as a concentrated liquid.

The second group includes a primer for water-repellent surfaces. This, for example, can be porcelain stoneware, metal surfaces. In this case, applying the solution will improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface. Smooth surface will become rougher. This primer looks like a paste. When choosing the required composition, it is necessary to evaluate the type of surface on which the tile will be glued.

Compound

Exist a large number of types of primers that differ in composition. When choosing, the properties of such solutions should be taken into account. One of the most popular is acrylic primer. She possesses universal characteristics. This wall primer white. It is most often used in modern construction. Such a product is not suitable only for metal surfaces.

Another popular variety is alkyd primer. She possesses increased strength. It is used for non-absorbent surfaces. But it is not suitable for drywall or plaster.

Primers that incorporate gypsum, cement or lime are also popular. They are designed for concrete, brick, plasterboard surfaces.

There are other types of primers. However, they are used much less frequently. Before buying, you need to study the features of the use of the product.

Manufacturer's choice

Today, a primer is presented on the building materials market, the price of which can vary significantly. The most popular manufacturers of such funds are the companies Ceresit, Knauf, Kaparol, as well as the domestic brand Prospectors.

Primer "Ceresit" is very diverse. Today its production is carried out in Russia. This allows you to reduce the cost (10 liters costs about 570 rubles) without losing quality. This is one of the best options.

The German manufacturer Knauf also offers a primer High Quality. On sale are universal and special formulations. The cost of such products is acceptable. A 10 liter canister will cost about 600 rubles.

The cost of the primer "Caparol" differs depending on its purpose. There are regular and special formulations. It is also a well-known, high-quality product.

The domestic manufacturer "Starateli" is one of the largest such industries in our country. The product range is varied. The cost of such a primer will be less. For 10 liters of solution, you will need to pay only about 400 rubles.

Preparatory work

Applied primer before laying tiles in the bathroom by special technology. First, the surface of the base must be properly prepared. Walls or floors must be thoroughly cleaned of debris, dirt and dust. You will also need to completely remove the remnants of the old coating. For example, if the surfaces were originally coated oil paint, it will need to be removed with a spatula.

If there are obvious defects, potholes on the surface, they must be covered with special solutions.

After preparing the surface, you need to pay attention to the tools. In a specialized store you need to purchase a roller and fly brush. You also need to prepare a special container for the primer. In such a bath it will be convenient to prepare the solution.

Application to an absorbent surface

Having prepared a brush, a bath and primer roller, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology of this process. It is necessary to purchase a concentrated product. It is diluted with water correct proportion immediately before application. It is convenient to do this in a prepared container.

On sale are ready solutions. They do not need to be diluted with water. Just pour the product into the bath and get to work.

The roller must be dipped in a primer. The product is carefully applied to the base of the wall or floor. In hard-to-reach places, the surface can be smeared with a brush. Next, you need to wait until the surface dries completely. The roller and tray should be washed. They can be used again.

Application on a non-absorbent surface

The tools for applying a primer to a non-absorbent surface will be identical to the previous process. As mentioned above, for such surfaces, the primer has a paste consistency. The solution must be thoroughly mixed before use. This is necessary so that all components are evenly distributed in the primer.

The composition is convenient to apply to the surface even with a brush. The work is done simply and quickly. , you should look at the packaging. The manufacturer must provide this information.

Tools must be washed with water. This primer is most often sold in large packages. It is used in the repair or construction of a house, large object. Otherwise, there is a lot of unused primer.

Cooking

Requires proper cooking if the manufacturer suggests it. When buying a concentrate, you must carefully study the instructions.

In order for the agent to penetrate deeply into the base material, it is required to apply two layers in a row. Moreover, it is very important that after the first application the film does not dry completely.

If you plan to apply a primer in two layers, for the first of them you should prepare a solution at a concentration of 1:16. It is applied to the walls or floor, and then immediately prepare the second portion of the product.

For the second layer, the concentration of water and primer should be 1:12. If the first layer has time to dry completely, the second time to apply the product is not necessary. In this case, the primer will not be able to soak well into the base.

Cleaning the surface from the primer

If for some reason the primer gets on the tile, it should be washed off immediately. Until the solution has dried, it is well removed from the surface with a damp cloth. However, in some cases, time is lost.

Must be applied in accordance with the above technology. Do not apply it to walls if the floor covering is not protected from the ingress of mortar. If the tile is already laid, it should be covered with a film. Only after that proceed to the processing of the walls.

If the primer has had time to harden on the surface of the tile, you should try to wipe it off first with water. You can cover the stains with damp cloths and leave them for several hours. After that, it is likely that the primer will wash off the coating. If this does not help, you will have to use a cleaner to polyurethane foam. The agent is applied to the contamination and left for a certain time (written in the instructions). Next, using a scraper, the hardened primer is removed from the tile.

Also, any alcohol-based solvents that are at hand are suitable for such purposes. Acetone, turpentine, etc. will do. The sooner the primer contamination is detected, the easier it will be to wash it off the tile.

Considering how to apply primer before laying tiles, everyone will be able to do this work on their own.

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