How to make a neat seam with silicone sealant. Seal the seams between the bathroom and the wall with silicone sealant. Preparing the caulk gun
At finishing seams, joints, as well as in the repair various surfaces it is customary to use mixtures for sealing - sealants different composition. In order for the work to be done efficiently, it is not enough to take the tool and place it in a crack. The application of sealant must be carried out in accordance with a number of requirements, from opening the package to painting the already cured composition.
The first thing to do correctly is to choose a sealing compound in accordance with the work performed. In this case, it is necessary to take into account where the sealing is carried out, inside or outside the room, how much the composition will be exposed to different precipitation and temperatures, whether it will need to be painted, and what is the desired service life.
To work with wooden structures use correctly polymer compositions on an acrylic base. They can be dyed after application. They are also suitable for sealing windows, walls and ceilings, but in this case it is better to give preference to acrylic siliconized compounds. They are more plastic and less afraid of moisture.
For wet environments where the seams are constantly in contact with water, a silicone-based compound with anti-fungal properties is best suited. This type is the most popular for various types works.
Sealants are sold in tubes. For easy use, the package must be opened correctly. To do this, the tip of the tube is cut at an angle. It has a cap that comes with it. The already prepared tube is loaded into a construction gun and fixed.
If everything is done carefully and in the correct sequence, use silicone sealant will be easy. To start filling the seam, you need to insert the tip of the tube deeper into the crack and carry out moderate uniform pressure along the joint.
To obtain high-quality sealing, you must adhere to the following sequence:
2. Once again, make sure the seam is dry.
3. Apply mounting tape on both sides of the crack.
4. Apply the prepared sealant to the working area.
You need to start applying the composition from the corner, holding the tube at an angle. You need to try to squeeze out the tool evenly along the entire length. After the main work, you need to create with a spatula correct form seam, treating the tool with a solution of soap. You can then remove the tape.
Can be removed with a spatula or cloth excess material. Subsequent work is carried out after the composition has dried, the time of which is individual for each sealant.
How to apply silicone sealant
The rules for applying silicone-based sealant do not differ significantly. However, you should be aware of some features. Dries silicone compound up to two days, while its surface becomes dry after half an hour, which does not indicate the possibility of further work. During the entire drying period, care must be taken to ensure that liquid and moisture do not get into the seam.
Before sealing the seams with silicone, it is important to remove the remnants of the old material:
- Mechanically - with a knife, sandpaper, spatula.
- Special washes and solvents.
A small amount of the product can be removed with gasoline or alcohol. But you can also buy tools specially designed for this. Some will only help soften the silicone mass, but then it will be much easier to remove it.
There may be such a problem as uneven filling of the seam, the appearance of protrusions and indentations. In this case, you should not be upset, but you need to remove the excess material that has not yet dried with a knife dipped in soapy water. Many use a finger to smooth the seam, which is practical and convenient. But it is important to moisten your hand in water.
When performing individual work, additional components are taken into account as part of the tool. Qualitative composition a quarter consists of silicone polymer, rubber mastic by 5%, acrylic putty and thiokol by 3%, epoxy resin by 2% and cement additive by 0.5%.
If the product contains antiseptic components to prevent mold and mildew, it cannot be used for joints that come into contact with food and drinking water. Such mixtures are not suitable for filling aquariums and terrariums.
Professional craftsmen recommend using silicone compounds for external works for filling small gaps window frames from the side of the room. This will provide a long period of operation, as they withstand Sun rays and UFO.
For sealing glass, mirrors, mosaics, you can pick up good colorless sealants. Floor slots are best treated with a sealant of dark colors.
Silicone sealants are available different types, because they are universal, and you can choose a tool for almost any joints, seams and cracks. They are easy to work with, in addition, all the necessary information indicated on the package.
On the video: How to work with silicone? Doing neat seam!
Additional materials and tools
In order for everything to go well and not have to be redone, you need to prepare the necessary tools. In this case, it is better not to save money, since an uncured composition can be dangerous, and it is better to carefully prepare. For example, you can remove excess material with your finger, however, it should be remembered that if the skin is sensitive, irritation may occur. Other consequences such as allergies, peeling of the skin and nails are not excluded.
A set of tools for working with silicone sealants:
- Construction gun, scissors.
- Paper wet wipes and soft rags with clean water.
- Alcohol, professional degreaser or acetone.
- Mounting tape and adhesive tape.
Fund consumption
To save money, even before buying a material, you need to calculate it required amount. It should also be borne in mind that the compositions have a certain shelf life, and it is better not to purchase them for future work. The consumption of the silicone mixture according to the standards is 300 ml per 17 running meters with layer thickness up to 4 mm. At the same time, the recommended layer thickness for high-quality sealing is 3.5 mm. A smaller volume of material will affect the quality, the seam will depressurize faster and will be more susceptible to external factors.
The wide scope and convenience when working with silicone sealant are due to its technical specifications. They have a number of features that determine the possibility of using for indoor and outdoor work.
Features and properties of a silicone-based sealant:
- Good elasticity- it can be used to isolate movable joints subject to slight deformation, which is compensated, the composition does not collapse under the influence of temperature and weather factors.
- Increased strength- this is due to its flexibility, it can also withstand temperatures up to plus 200 degrees, and some high-temperature compounds up to 300 degrees, they are resistant to deformation and durable.
- Increased level of adhesion to different materials – silicone base provides good adhesion to plastic, wood, glass, concrete, metal and many other surfaces.
- Resilience to factors external environment – sealants on silicone do not lose their properties on open sun, some can be used in humid environments, in frost and in areas with severe climatic conditions.
Silicone compounds are acidic and neutral. At internal works, as well as for joints metal surfaces it is better to choose the second option. Acid ones are cheaper, but at the same time chemical reactions become a factor in the corrosion of the material.
There are also one-component and two-component. The first can be used in the form in which they are sold. Two-component formulations must be mixed in a certain proportion. It is more convenient to work with ready mixes, then the probability of error is reduced.
There is nothing complicated in working with silicone sealants. The packaging is easy to open and insert into the gun. The composition comes out without difficulty under pressure. However, the curing time and the temperature at which they can be handled must be taken into account. Some compositions dry quite quickly, so you need to do everything with them faster in order to have time to correct the shortcomings. Separate products are unsuitable for sealing in case of poor weather conditions. It should also be borne in mind that the silicone composition will not stick to a wet surface.
When working with sealant, you must not forget about the rules of personal safety. The frozen composition is safe, but in liquid form can damage mucous membranes and skin. Therefore, it is better to wear a mask and gloves. After personal safety, you need to take care of decorative surfaces so that they do not get contaminated with sealant. For this it is convenient to use masking tape.
How to use sealant (2 videos)
Using silicone sealant (21 photos)
With such tools, you can safely start replacing the sealing joints.
In kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, it is often necessary to seal the joints with silicone sealant. With little experience and necessary tools anyone can do this well.
Sealing joints with silicone sealant is an eternal topic. Some consider it a banality, others are not sure if they will succeed. And these fears are justified, because often it is those very "pros" who leave behind unsightly or even leaky seams.
Of course, you need to know a few basic things, and of course, have a little experience. Before sealing, you can practice, and when you achieve satisfactory results, start working on the sink, tub or shower.
Old silicone not only looks ugly, but also does not fulfill its direct function - sealing the seams.
used sealant
Even the best sealant will not last forever, so one day it will have to be changed. If you are sealing brand new plumbing fixtures, you must first remove the old silicone. For it the best combination mechanical and chemical means.
Sealant must first be removed mechanically, better with a special plastic spatula. Besides what he has comfortable shape, it has the advantage of not damaging the surface.
Remove the old silicone mechanically, preferably with a spatula. special form for silicone.
Metal tools can scratch plastic and leave dark marks that are hard to remove on enamel. But when you're removing silicone from tile joints, don't be afraid to use a sharp knife to literally cut the old silicone out of the joints.
Apply a silicone remover to the remaining silicone and let it work as instructed.
If the silicone residue could not be removed with a spatula, you can try chemicals to remove it to soften it up a bit. After that, we will simply remove the remnants.
Carefully remove softened silicone residue so that lumps do not spoil the new silicone.
Preparation for sealing
Sealing with silicone, like gluing, depends on the condition of the substrate. The more thoroughly the surface is prepared, the better sealant will stick. After thorough cleaning the seam and the area around it should be well degreased. Better with technical gasoline than detergent.
Detergent will be needed later to smooth the sealant. Surfaces must be dry before applying silicone.
The seams and the area around must be cleaned and degreased with technical gasoline.
If you can squeeze a perfectly smooth "caterpillar" of silicone out of the tube, you're in luck. It doesn't always work, and sometimes it's just not possible. In order to ensure that even in this case the edge of the sealant is perfectly even, you can help yourself with adhesive tape. Tape it around the seams so that excess silicone doesn't go where you don't want it to. Remove the tape after applying the silicone, and immediately smooth the silicone.
Seam sealing
The easiest way to squeeze the silicone sealant out of the tube is with a hand gun. If the seam is long, you need to loosen the gun handle and press again.
There is also a cordless gun and an air gun that will force out the sealant at a constant rate until the tube runs out of silicone. Of course, applying silicone with such tools is a joy, but for an amateur master, their price is high.
When using tape, apply silicone with smooth edges without any problems.
Regardless of which extrusion gun you use, the tip should be cut at an angle. There is usually a line on the tip where to cut correctly, depending on the desired width of the silicone strip to be applied. The farther from the tip you cut, the thicker the strip of extruded silicone will be.
A correctly cut tip can, with a uniform dosage of silicone, level its surface to the desired shape.
Remove excess silicone with a rubber spatula with the appropriate profile (radius, bevel).
For a perfectly even shape of the joint with silicone, a rubber spatula with different profiles is used.
Seam smoothing
If you managed to fill the seam with silicone evenly and with straight edges, it is enough to smooth it with the pad of your finger, which before we wet it in detergent. Silicone could stick to a dry finger and instead of smoothing, you would damage the surface.
We only smooth the silicone with our finger, but do not try to form it, it would end badly - the material under your finger will begin to accumulate, squeeze out on the sides and the sealant will have jagged edges. Not only does this not look pretty, but it often causes the silicone to peel off.
Masking tape will help make the edges of the silicone even.
Then carefully remove the masking tape while the silicone is still soft.
If you are using adhesive tape, you can mold silicone without fear, because the excess silicone will be removed with it. Although most old masters prefer to use their fingers for this, there is another interesting tool for smoothing, primarily for shaping the silicone in the seams.
This is a rubber spatula that will shape the applied silicone - any radius or bevel perfectly evenly along the entire length of the seam. Excess cement that sticks on the sides and near the seam is simultaneously wiped off the surface or adhesive tape.
The silicone is applied using a sealing gun, either frame or closed.
Silicone sealant is produced in two main types - acetate, and neutral. Acetate can be identified by the smell of vinegar during curing. It is slightly cheaper, but not suitable for sealing where there is contact with plastic, plaster or wood. For these purposes, a slightly more expensive neutral silicone is preferable.
Both types are also available in a variant listed as sanitary silicone with added antifungal agents.
The applicator nose must be cut at an appropriate angle before applying the silicone.
Unlike acrylic, silicone sealants cannot be painted; conventional paints do not adhere to them. Therefore they are made different colors, so that they can harmonize with the base or with cement joints between tiles. Transparent silicone is used for "invisible" seams.
Dear friends, now I will tell you how to properly and accurately make a silicone seam. Many craftsmen often say that silicone is not quite comfortable material for work. After I give you some secrets, it will be no problem for you to make the perfect silicone seam.
So where is silicone used?
Silicone is used everywhere where you need to protect against water leaks such things as adjoining the toilet between the bathroom and the wall, etc. Silicone is used in many applications. Therefore, now I will talk about the technology of applying this building material firmly embedded in our lives. Silicone is sold in tubes.
Usually manufacturers produce it in the same color as the fugue colors for tiles. Silicone is applied using an ordinary construction gun. The seam is aligned with rubber spatulas with a cut corner. The most popular spatula has a triangular shape and costs only 118 rubles.
For the formation of a seam, size 6 is most often used. The most important rule when working with silicone is that the silicone seam is formed with a soap solution so that we get a classic seam. The surface to which the silicone will be applied is cleaned and degreased. The next step is to apply silicone to the surface. It must be carried in reserve.
It is better to apply more than less. It is important to always have a washcloth handy. Most commonly used paper towels. After we have applied the silicone, we spray the place of application with an ordinary soapy solution. The best way to do this is with a sprayer. Then the spatula is also sprayed with soapy water.
After that, quite calmly remove the excess silicone with a spatula. The seam is ready. We get a smooth, perfect and flawless silicone seam. If you do not have special spatulas, the seam can be formed with your finger. But then it will be concave. What's wrong with a seam made with a finger? Since it is concave, the edges of the seam are very thin and begin to flake off over time.
The corner seam makes the edge thicker, so it is more durable. Experts recommend making a triangular seam.
We form the inner corner. For the formation inner corner silicone is applied to the junction of two surfaces. Then spray soapy water on the seam.
We also wet the spatula with soapy water. We draw a spatula along the seam and form an angle. The spatula must be held vertically. If it didn't work the first time perfect seam, again spray the seam and spatula with soapy water and carry out again. If somewhere the wall is stained with silicone, the excess can be removed with the flat side of the spatula.
I think that with the formation of a silicone seam with a soap solution, everything is clear. This technology is very simple.
Next, I will describe how to make a silicone seam using masking tape. This technology is used when it is impossible to spray soap solution. For example, the junction of a painted slope and a window.
In this case, you can not spray a soapy solution, because the slope can be ruined. Also tile joint and putty ceiling in the bathroom. Therefore, in this case, many masters use masking tape. The technology is different. At the beginning, masking tape must be glued onto the previously cleaned surface, leaving room for the seam. After that we apply silicone.
Silicone in this case must be applied very carefully. Then we remove the excess silicone with a finger. Immediately tear off the masking tape. If this is not done, the silicone will harden, and when you open the masking tape, we will get a sloppy silicone seam.
Now I will tell you about the most common mistakes in applying silicone.
If silicone is applied little or allowed somewhere, then the seam turns out to be uneven, with pits. These pits have already been sprayed with soapy water, and therefore it will no longer be possible to make a perfect seam. In order to avoid this, apply silicone in excess. Second typical mistake when silicone is applied to a length of three (five) meters.
Now we will analyze how to properly silicone the seams between the tiles. This work must be carried out at the junction of the floor and wall tiles. This is especially true for tiles laid on underfloor heating, as in our case. Silicone compensates for thermal expansion and prevents cracks from appearing.
To seal these seams, I will use silicone plumbing sealant. It additionally has an antifungal additive. Also in the store you can easily choose the color of this sealant.
Preparation for work
Let's get to work.
First, with a dry rag, I remove dust and dirt from outer surface tiles. Inner space seams must be clean and dry.
Now we take the sealant and perform some operations with it.
First, unscrew the nozzle and cut off the tip of the tube with a sharp knife.
Be careful here - cut off the very tip, not the thread.
Now we need to properly cut the tip of the tube. Please note that the tip already has a 45 degree sag. We need to choose the last one. With a sharp knife cut off the tip at 45 degrees.
Now we will place the tube of sealant in the gun. To do this, we take the mechanical piston all the way back, install the tube and begin to move the piston forward.
We continue to move the mechanical piston forward so that the silicone sealant slightly protrudes on the edge of the tip.
Now the gun is ready to go.
Seam filling
We begin to fill the seams with silicone sealant. Set the gun at 45 degrees to all planes.
Slowly squeeze out the sealant, trying to fill the seam between the tiles as much as possible. The movement of the gun should be from the edges to the middle.
Avoid tearing the tip off the tile. If you tear off the gun, make sure that there are no gaps left later.
Don't worry if more silicone comes out somewhere. The most important thing now is to fill the cavities to the maximum. In the next step, we will remove all excess silicone, so the blots and flaws in the application will be corrected.
Having finished drawing on one of the sides, we move on to the next side. See what it looks like from the side. We slowly and slowly carefully fill the cavity of the seam so that in the future water does not get there, and this rule is typical not only for shower tray from tiles.
One of the features of this object is the use of tiles of different colors. In this case, we need to create a brown seam, and for this purpose I will use a sealant of a different color - brown. We carry out the sealing of the seam according to the same rules.
Now you can see that the brown and white sealant is docking.
Having sealed the seams at a distance of about two meters, I stop and use a conventional sprayer to apply a soapy solution on top in order to further adjust the seams and make them beautiful. The soapy solution should get on both the silicone and the tile.
After the silicone area has been treated with soapy water, I use a small makeshift fixture- a small wooden stick smooth surface processed at 90 degrees.
With this stick, we will successfully remove excess silicone, leaving the seam smooth, and most importantly even.
But before using it, we will prepare a container with soapy water and thoroughly wet the stick in a soapy solution. And the next operation should be done no later than 5-10 minutes after applying silicone.
Having installed the stick close to the tile, we stretch it along the seam.
Excess silicone will collect on a stick, dip them in a soapy solution. So excess silicone will not stick to anything, and your hands will remain clean.
We repeat the operation and collect the excess sealant further.
I also want to note that instead of a wooden stick, you can use ready-made special spatulas to collect sealant. Look for them at your local hardware stores.
I finished adjusting the seam and removing excess sealant. As you can see, my hands remained clean, and all the excess silicone ended up in this container.
I have siliconeed and adjusted the seam on two of the four walls of the shower tray, and now I can safely silicone the next two seams. This approach eliminates premature drying of the sealant before it is adjusted.
As you can see, the seams are quite neat.
We just have to wait for the silicone to dry completely.
I will also add that in new buildings it is desirable to silicone the joints of tiles on adjacent walls. This will avoid cracks during the shrinkage of the foundation.
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The junction of a bathtub or shower tray with a wall has always been and will be a problem node.
The fact that the sealing is done poorly, you can long time and not know. Your neighbors will be the first to know. Moisture accumulates gradually, after each shower and, over time, finds weak spots in floor waterproofing (if any).
It is good if the floor, under the bathroom, is made with a slope and the flowing water is noticeable. If not, then high humidity will create more ideal conditions for the development of the fungus.
There are several ways to close the joint between the wall and the bathroom. There are no simple and effective ones.
Accessibility and simplicity usually suffer from fragility and poor appearance. And high-quality sealing requires significant labor costs. Therefore, it is rarely performed.
The firm "Ravak" offers to install a decorative strip for bathtubs in the joint between the bathtub and the wall. Seal the joint and fix the bar to the silicone of the same company.
sealing the joint with a decorative strip “Ravak”
The recommendation is good. And probably correct. But the corner is noticeable, stands out strongly and does not paint the room. In addition, plastic, over time, turns yellow and becomes dirty, and is difficult to clean. This advice from “Ravak” has been around for many years and is not very popular. Although this method can achieve reliable waterproofing.
The most common method today is sealing with white plumbing silicone.
White color is the most optimal for any tile. It merges in color with the bathroom and is the least noticeable.
Long-term practice of this method brought out two manners of its execution. Both working and efficient, lead to the same result. Which one is better is hard to say. It all depends on who gets used to doing it.
First.
For this technique, it is necessary, in addition to silicone with a gun, to have a spray with soapy water and a plate for forming a slope on the sealant. The material of the plate can be anything, from a purchased special profile to the rounded end of the handle on a brush.
Application of silicone along the bath joint
The technology is simple. Apply silicone along the seam with a gun. At this stage, the main thing is to achieve a uniform thickness of the extruded silicone. The second step is to moisten the surface around the applied silicone. Its meaning is that, during the formation of the slope, the silicone is not smeared on the sides (and does not stick). A soapy, wet surface will prevent this. On a dry and clean surface, the sealant adheres firmly. Therefore, the joint to be sealed must be dry and clean.
Wetting the surface with soapy water
The next step is to form a slope with a plate. Some people use their fingers for this. The finger is soft and does not give clear edges. Dimpled silicone smears over the surface.
Formation of a silicone seam with a plate
Firm "STAYER" produces a set of special plates for the formation of a seam of silicone. If it releases, then there is a demand for such a device, then the method is popular.
STAYER spatula for forming a seam on sealants
Second way.
With this method, the cleanliness of the edges of the tile and bathtub is ensured with the help of two strips of masking tape, without wetting with soapy water. The tools and technology are the same. After removing excess silicone with a plate, the tape is removed. The edges remain even and the surface of the tile and tub is clean.
Adhesive tape before sealing
Removing excess sealant from the joint
Tape removal
Using this method, it is necessary to take into account one feature. The distance between the two tapes must be done taking into account the size of the bevel on the plate, which forms the seam. The diagram shows that if the silicone enters the paint job during the formation of the seam, then removing the tape, we undermine the edge of the sealant. The silicone at the edges will, in this case, have some thickness, and not fade away, as we planned.
Correct "A" and incorrect "B" distance between paint strips.
It is necessary to level the applied sealant quickly (within a minute), in one pass along the entire length of the seam. If interrupted, irregularities at the docking point will become noticeable. Therefore, you need to manage with one smoothing to align the joint. If you later try to trim it (after 3-5 minutes), the sealant becomes covered with a film and begins to stretch.
How long after applying sealant should masking tape be removed?
“Everything needs to be done at once and quickly. Until the silicone hardens. Then there is still a chance to smooth the seam in case of unsuccessful removal of masking tape.
If you remove the next day, when the sealant has already set, the edges of the seam will tear in different ways. A straight line will not work.
What is the disadvantage of sealing the joint with silicone?
- Silicone blackens from fungus.
- Fastening strength in case of improper execution, weak. If you pull on the torn piece, the entire tape will stretch.
Blackening of silicone in the bathroom
Removing old silicone in the bathroom
This may serve as an answer to the problem: “How to remove old sealant from a bath?”
You can easily remove it with sharp blade, but in some cases it is necessary to use, in addition, chemical method. Available for sale special means that soften the outdated sealant - Remover, Gasket, Penta-840. You can use nail polish remover (regular, manicure). In this case, it is better to wet a felt mitten. Hard bristles help to remove, and the wool will not fall apart (like a sponge), under the influence of a solvent.
The next way to seal the joint is the easiest and most affordable. This is a self-adhesive profile. Names may vary. border tape, self-adhesive tape. All produce - Poland, Ukraine, Russia.
An alternative to silicone - curb tape
Various types of border tape
Before mounting, remove the old silicone (if any), clean the surface of residues with a solvent and wipe dry. Then, remove the protective film from the profile and press it to the surface. Docking in the corner is done by cutting two profiles diagonally at the same time.
What are the disadvantages of this method?
Again, all the same plastic, and all - the same problems. Although the tape is less visible compared to the "Ravak" decorative strip. The Germans have a particularly interesting solution.
Self-adhesive profile produced in the EU
Removal protective film from curb tape
What is the most good way joint seals?
The most successful is the most dreary. I saw it by accident. Its meaning is to apply silicone to the surface of the tile during cladding. Make the seam between the tile and the bathroom minimal. This requires precise fitting of all tiles. The top of the tub is not level. Each tile is cut at the place of its installation.
Applying sanitary silicone to tiles when facing
Application of silicone to the end of the tile
You can’t do without silicone - the grout will definitely burst along the edge of the bath from temperature expansions or fluctuations in case acrylic bath. So that the silicone does not come off as a “sausage”, it is applied to the end and on reverse side tiles. Pressing down the tile, we connect both layers. It is already impossible to pull out without undermining the tile.
But for this method, it seems to me that it is necessary to additionally apply silicone to the end of the bath during installation.
Application of "Ravak" silicone on the end of the tub before installation