Features, advantages and disadvantages of a ceiling chandelier with a fan. How to connect the fan in the bathroom to the switch. How to connect a chandelier with a fan connection diagram

A fan is a device that creates a stream of air for cooling or circulates it to eliminate unpleasant odors or remove harmful substances. Fans in everyday life are used as:

desktop or floor devices for creating comfortable conditions in hot weather;
exhaust devices in kitchens, bathrooms and toilets;
in computer technology for cooling power units: power supply, processor, hard drives, as well as for housing ventilation;
in welding inverters for cooling power electronic components.

Fans fail, but not in all cases you need to rush to go to a specialized workshop. The cost of repairing some products is sometimes commensurate with the cost of buying new ones. Therefore, it is better to try to repair them yourself.

Do-it-yourself fan repair

Signs of malfunction mechanical fan parts are:

outsiders noises at work;
deceleration rotation, while the rotation of the shaft of the switched off device by hand occurs with effort;
full stop, in which the rotation of the fan shaft by hand is impossible or requires considerable effort.

To electric faults include:

actuation protective devices (circuit breakers) when the fan is turned on;
smells burnt or overheated insulation during operation;
deceleration rotation during free rotation of the shaft of the switched off device;
interruptions in operation when changing modes.

Untimely eliminated mechanical faults progress in development and lead to electrical problems. Prolonged operation of the fan with jamming on the shaft leads to overheating and failure of the motor windings. A loose bearing allows the motor shaft to move in a radial direction, which leads to damage to the stator windings.

Therefore, if signs of a malfunction are found, it should be immediately addressed.

Troubleshooting

Household fans do not include rolling bearings or the like, which are replaced in case of failure. They install plain bearings, the shaft rotates in bronze bushings. They are permanently pressed into the body. But, even if they are taken out of there, there will be nothing to replace them. Therefore, such bearings must be lubricated in a timely manner. Once they work “dry” for some time, the clearance between the shaft and the bearing will increase. This will lead to axial runout of the shaft, resulting in extraneous noise, a decrease in speed and an increase in the rate of bearing wear. This is especially fatal for computer coolers.

Used for lubrication machine oil, but it is better to use spindle. If the house has sewing machine, then the oil for its lubrication - the best way for fan bearings. For lubrication, the fan must be disassembled to get to the bearings. For coolers and some exhaust fans, it is enough to peel off protective film from one side.

Pay attention to the presence pollution bearing. In some cases, you will have to disassemble the assembly, clean it, and then reassemble and lubricate it. You do not need to apply a lot of lubricant: one or two drops are enough for normal operation of the bearing. The rest will be sprayed all over the body at the first start. Drops of oil inside the housing do a good job of collecting dust.

If, after lubrication, there is still noise during operation, the beating of the shaft, then the product will have to be thrown away. The plain bearing cannot be replaced.

Troubleshooting the electrical part of the fan

When the fan stops completely, you need to check the serviceability power cord and switches operating mode. This will require a multimeter. best method power cord checks - measure the voltage at the fan input terminal block or at the places where the cord is connected to its internal elements. Be careful when checking: do not touch live areas with your hands. After checking, immediately remove the plug from the socket.

The serviceability of the switches is checked by measuring their resistance in the "on" position. They can fail with frequent switching. It is best to immediately measure the voltage on the electric motor, but for this you need to know wiring diagram fan. And also - the principle of its operation and control of the rotation speed.

Speed control is carried out by switching the outputs from the engine. In this case, one of its windings has a number of taps (taps), by switching which the number of turns on the stator changes. With this scheme, you need to measure before and after the switch to find out if it is working. If the voltage is on, but the motor does not rotate, you need to measure the resistance of its windings. If the device shows a break, then the engine is to blame for the malfunction.

Another element, the malfunction of which leads to the stop of the fan, is phase shifting capacitor. In circuits where it is used, the motor has two windings. One of them is connected to the power supply directly, and the other is connected through a capacitor that performs a voltage shift on it in phase by 90 degrees.

If the capacitor fails, the winding either does not receive power, or there is no phase shift. In both cases, the motor will not rotate. You can check the health of the capacitor with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. In this case, you need to choose the largest measurement limit. Before connecting the device, the capacitor must be discharged by closing its terminals to each other.

If at the moment the multimeter probes are touched, readings appear briefly, and then it shows a “break”, then the capacitor is good. If its readings are zero or infinity and do not change, then the capacitor is out of order and needs to be replaced.

The operating voltage of the new capacitor should not be less than that of the replaced one, and the capacitance should correspond to the original one. Its value is calculated in relation to the parameters of the motor winding, if it is changed, then the phase shift angle will be more or less than 90˚, and the fan will not start, or will rotate more slowly.

Attention, do not confuse the conclusions of the windings. Before disconnecting, mark the wires and draw how they were connected. Take additional photos of the assembly before disassembly.

If breaks in the motor windings are detected, the repair ends. You can try to find the place of the break or make sure that the winding is burned out (this is indicated by the darkening of the color of the insulation of its wires). But rewind modern home appliances economically impractical, and in order to carry it out at home, you need to have the professional skills of a wrapper. Therefore, devices with burned-out electric motors can be thrown away without remorse.

The same applies to malfunctions of electronic fan speed control devices.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

An acquaintance contacted me with the following problem - his radio-controlled chandelier does not turn on.

Let me remind you that a radio-controlled chandelier can be controlled either from the control panel or by pressing the switch.

In this case, the chandelier stopped responding to both the remote control and the switch.

I think that the problem is quite relevant, therefore, in hot pursuit, I decided to write an article that will help save money and deal with such a problem on my own, not only for ordinary consumer citizens and home craftsmen, but also for electricians who have not yet mastered the wiring diagrams of such chandeliers.

Before you start troubleshooting and repairing a chandelier with a control panel, you need to know its device and connection diagram.

Device and diagram of a chandelier with a control panel

Chandeliers with a remote control can only be with incandescent lamps, can only be with halogen lamps, can only be with LED lamps and may be combined.

In my example, just the same combined chandelier with halogen lamps and LED lighting is presented.

This is what it looked like when it was brought to me.

Looking at such a knot of wires and blocks, there is no desire to understand further, as in principle, and did the electrician, who was originally invited to troubleshoot. He simply took off the chandelier, took his hard-earned 200 rubles and recommended looking for another electrician to repair this chandelier.

But there is nothing supernatural in the scheme. It is only at first glance that this impression is created, but believe me, everything is not so difficult.

So let's go in order.

Of the whole variety of radio-controlled chandeliers, their device consists of the following modules of the same type:

radio control unit (controller complete with remote control)
block of halogen lamps
block of led lamps

Consider the purpose of each block separately.

A chandelier radio control unit or controller - in fact, this is a wireless switch that can be controlled using a control panel (RC) or using a conventional single-gang switch. This radio control unit is also called a switch, which means "switch" in English.

The chandelier in question is equipped with a radio-controlled Wireless Switch type Y-7E.

Specifications of the Wireless Switch Y-7E Controller:

supply voltage 200-240 (V)
number of output channels - 3
output channel voltage 200-240 (V)
the power of each channel is not more than 1000 (W) when connecting incandescent lamps or halogen lamps
the power of each channel is not more than 200 (W) when energy-saving lamps are connected
range of the control panel - 8 (m)

The connection diagram of the Wireless Switch Y-7E controller is shown on its case.

The controller is powered through a single-key switch (in the diagram, it is marked with the letter K) as follows:

phase (L) is connected to the red output (Red wire)
zero (N) is connected to the black output (Black wire)

For clarity and more better understanding wiring diagrams for a chandelier with a control panel, I will lay it out sequentially in the form of fragments.

Here is a fragment of the power supply circuit of the Y-7E controller through a one-button switch.

For those who have forgotten how the one-button switch is connected -.

The Y-7E Wireless Switch Controller has three output channels with the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - brown output (Brown wire)
phase of the second channel - white output (White wire)
phase of the third channel - blue output (Blue wire)
common zero - black output (Black wire)

The remaining one white conductor is the signal receiver antenna from the control panel (PU). It doesn't need to be connected anywhere.

A fragment of the Y-7E controller connection diagram without a connected load.

As you can see, the supply zero (N) and the common zero at the controller output (N) have the same wire color. This is due to the fact that this conductor is single and it does not break in the controller - these two conductors are soldered to one terminal. In principle, they can be interchanged.

And here appearance controller board Y-7E, but we will return to it later.

As I said just above, our controller has three output channels, which means that three independent lighting groups can be connected to it. In our chandelier it is:

1st group of halogen lamps
2nd group of halogen lamps
LEDs (backlight)

Yes, by the way, in addition to three-channel controllers, there are: single-channel, two-channel and even four-channel. The meaning is the same, the difference is only in the number of output channels and the controller control algorithm, so I will not consider them separately.

We figured out the output channels, now let's move on to the loads.

Block of halogen lamps

The block of halogen lamps consists of:

power supply (transformer)
halogen lamps

Here I will only point out that in our chandelier, Jindel GET-08 electronic transformers with a voltage of 220/12 (V) and a power of 160 (W) are used to power halogen lamps.

As a load, halogen lamps with a G4 base, with a power of 20 (W) in the amount of 6 pieces, are connected to the transformer. Each lamp is connected to the transformer terminals in parallel.

Attention! Never install higher power halogen lamps in the chandelier, otherwise the transformer will fail or the cartridges will melt.

Let's return to the next fragment of the scheme.

An electronic transformer for the 1st group of halogen lamps is connected to the first channel (Brown wire) of the controller.

The electronic transformer is made in accordance with the PUE:

phase (input) - brown
zero (input) - blue color

The output wires have the following colors:

phase (output) - white
zero (exit) - gray color

All wire connections in the chandelier are made using end insulated plugs (KIZ).

The plug is made of transparent nylon, through which you can see the depth of entry of the cores into the sleeve and the result obtained after crimping.

Then the resulting isolated connection is further isolated with heat shrink tubing, and the tip is tightened with a tie-clamp. It turns out a fairly reliable and high-quality connection.

An electronic transformer for the 2nd group of halogen lamps is connected to the second channel (White wire) of the controller.

The color marking of the wires here is similar to that of the first transformer.

Let me remind you that halogen lamps cannot be touched with bare hands on the bulb - only through a glove, napkin or rag, otherwise they will quickly fail.

LED block

And it remains to consider the connection diagram of the third channel at the chandelier.

In the chandelier under consideration, a simple LED driver Aled (Jindel Electric) GEL-11101 with a rectified output voltage of 3-3.2 (V) is used to power the LEDs.

The driver is connected to the third channel (Blue wire) of the controller.

The driver wire marking has the following colors:

phase (input) - red
zero (input) - red color
"+" (exit) - black color
"-" - White color

From 2 to 22 LEDs can be connected to the output of the GEL-11101 driver. In our case, 15 LEDs are connected, which smoothly change their color during operation.

All LEDs in a circuit are connected in series. Naturally, if at least one LED fails, the entire branch will not burn. So if you stop burning Neon lights in the chandelier, then first of all you need to start by checking the LEDs.

LEDs are very easy to change. They are simply inserted with their pins (legs) into the appropriate connector. The main thing is to observe the polarity when installing them.

Alternatively, a jumper can be installed instead of a burned-out LED. The driver allows you to work with fewer LEDs, but do not get too carried away with this, otherwise the life of the LEDs remaining in operation can be significantly reduced. The jumper can be used as a temporary solution to the problem.

Operating modes of a chandelier with a control panel

As I said at the beginning of the article, the chandelier can be controlled in two ways: using the remote control remote control(like) and using a conventional single-gang switch.

The chandelier control panel is programmed for a specific frequency and radio signal code, and can only work with the controller that came with the kit. Keep in mind that the remote control from another chandelier will not work for you, so if you lose the remote control, you will definitely have to buy another controller.

button A
button B
button C
button D

When button A is pressed, the first channel of the controller is switched on, i.e. the 1st group of halogen lamps will light up. Pressing button A again turns off the first channel. Similarly, with buttons B and C, only they control the second and third channels, respectively. But when you press the D button, all three channels are controlled at once.

If you control the chandelier with a single-key switch, then when the key is turned on for a short time, the first channel will turn on, when the key is turned off and then turned on, the algorithm will switch to turning on the second channel, etc., i.e. there is a sequential switching of the controller channels. And then the channel control cycle is repeated.

When the power is turned off for a long time, the controller algorithm is reset to its initial state.

In principle, if the batteries are dead in the remote control or you have lost it altogether, then it is quite possible to control the chandelier with a switch, although this is not very convenient.

Diagnostics and repair of a chandelier with a do-it-yourself control panel

We figured out the connection diagram of the chandelier with the control panel, and now we need to diagnose our malfunction.

Let me remind you that the chandelier in question does not turn on, either from the control panel or from the switch.

In principle, everything is simple. Since there is no radio control, it means that the controller (switch) falls under suspicion first of all. But you need to be 100% sure of this. Therefore, I decided to exclude it from the circuit and connect all three lighting groups directly to the 220 (V) network in order to check the serviceability electronic transformers for halogen lamps and driver for LED lighting.

To do this, I put together the following diagram.

As temporary connections, I applied .

We turn on the machine and look. All lamps should light up, provided they are good and their power supplies are good. As you can see, in my case, all the lamps are on, with the exception of a couple of halogen bulbs.

I will immediately replace the burned-out halogens with halogens with similar parameters: G4 base, voltage 12 (V), power 20 (W) from the Navigator.

From here we draw the obvious conclusion that the cause of the malfunction in the chandelier was found - the Y-7E switch failed.

During an external examination of the Y-7E board, I did not see burnt and charred elements.

Only now I noticed some kind of “track” on the MKR-X2 capacitor, but most likely the factory varnish was so casually dripped.

By the way, the controller is powered in a transformerless way according to a circuit with a quenching capacitor, i.e. the following are connected in series to the 220 (V) network: a capacitor MKR-X2, a diode bridge, a zener diode and a load. The excess voltage of the network “falls” on the capacitor, and at the output of the diode bridge the voltage is already about 12-13 (V) direct current. The signal receiver is powered from a source 5 (V), which is converted from a voltage of 12 (V).

Relay coils are connected to voltage 12 (V) ( blue blocks), whose contacts switch the load of the output channels.

As you can see, the relay contacts are rated for current up to 10 (A) at a voltage of 240 (V), although in technical specifications channel power is limited to a power of 1000 (W) or a current of 4.5 (A), i.e. even there is still some stock.

The article has already come out quite voluminous, so I will tell you about troubleshooting and repairing the Y-7E controller another time - subscribe to the newsletter so as not to miss the release of new and interesting articles.

Now you need to purchase a controller similar in power and number of channels, connect it accordingly and check its operation.

My friend bought a Sneha B-837 controller. It is quite suitable in terms of power and number of channels. Its cost was 535 rubles (as of the date of writing the article).

Similar devices can be purchased for more low prices, for example, on well-known Chinese platforms such as AliExpress.

If there is no urgent need for a controller, then for a while the chandelier can be left connected directly from a single-gang switch without a controller.

The kit even comes with a stand for the remote control. It can be placed near the sofa or bed so that the remote control is not lost.

We connect the purchased controller according to the above scheme. The difference will be only in the colors of the wires of its output channels.

The Sneha B-837 controller has three output channels, which have the following wire markings:

phase of the first channel - blue output (Blue)
phase of the second channel - white output (White)
phase of the third channel - yellow output (Yellow)
common zero - black output (Black-Neutral Out)

I connected the wires of the controller with the wires of the chandelier using NShVI bushings with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. I inserted two conductors, pressed them with PKVk-6 press tongs, insulated them and you're done.

We check the performance of the chandelier, both from the control panel and from the switch key. Only instead of a key, I will switch with a two-pole machine.

The chandelier with remote control is working properly.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in repairing a chandelier with a remote control. The main thing is to sequentially check the serviceability of all lamps, electronic transformers, power supplies and the radio control controller.

And already by tradition, watch the video based on the materials of this article:

At the end of the article, I would like to add that controllers with a control panel can be used not only as lighting control, but also for other loads, for example, remote control of blinds, curtains, cornices, gates and other electrical devices.

Addition. Watch the video where I replaced the transformer for halogen lamps at a similar chandelier:

P.S. That's all. I hope that this article will help you figure out how to connect and repair a chandelier with a remote control. Thank you for your attention.

Differences in installation

In the hot season, a large fan under the ceiling performs the functions of normalizing the microclimate in the room better than other models of fans. The air flow from it covers a large area. And even at low speeds, the effect is very pleasant for the residents. The fact that the fan takes center stage in the ceiling, which is usually used for a chandelier, does not cause problems, since in some models the functions of the fan and the chandelier are combined.

But fastening to the ceiling of an ordinary chandelier and combined model are somewhat different. For an ordinary chandelier, a hook is enough, which is provided in any room. It is motionless and is not affected by other forces except for the force of gravity. And when the impeller rotates, a torque is generated. It is directed in the direction opposite to rotation. And this feature should be taken into account by the suspension of a ceiling fan of any design, especially combined with a chandelier. In the absence of a rigid fastening, axial movements will appear during the rotation of the impeller.

For high ceilings

A simple ceiling fan does not catch the eye during these movements. But the movement of light bulbs in a chandelier with a fan will create an unpleasant lighting effect in the room. Light and especially shadows will move. If the ceilings in the room are high, false ceilings are usually installed. The base of an ordinary chandelier is made according to the level false ceiling and hung on a chain or on a cable. For a chandelier with a fan, these extensions cannot be used. In this case, the best extension would be metal pipe. Its diameter should be such that it is put on the ceiling hook with two holes made near its end. These hook holes should be diametrically opposed.

The pipe is also convenient for arranging wires inside it. Although the wires are connected, as if to one device, they actually create two separately operating circuits. After all, during the day when the impeller rotates, the light of the lamp is not needed. Therefore, to control lamps in the simplest circuit, you will need the same thing as for a chandelier. And the fan has its own a separate scheme. It allows you to adjust the speed of the impeller. The connection diagram of the simplest model is shown in the image below. It has one lamp and one speed of rotation of the impeller. Therefore, to control such a chandelier - a fan, a switch with two keys is enough.

Variety of models

The number of lamps can be three, five, and sometimes more. The speed of the impeller can be divided into two or three steps and even continuously adjustable. You can also smoothly adjust the light of the lamps using dimmers. There are many models of such combined structures and it is unlikely that they can be standardized with several schemes. In order not to experience problems with the installation of the connection diagram for such a chandelier, when buying, you need to make sure that the accompanying documentation is available and everything is clearly stated in it regarding connecting the product to the mains.

If the wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan turns out to be too complicated to assemble it yourself, there will surely be specialists who will do everything necessary. When the selected model contains sensors for controlling lighting, or the speed of rotation of the impeller, there is a separate control unit, the possibility of programming is better to solve the issue immediately upon purchase by calling a specialist in order to connect such a chandelier with a fan. DIY complex scheme you can not only not collect, but also disable something.

Podvi.ru

Wiring diagram chandelier fan

What is the wiring diagram for the fan adjacent to the chandelier

The plan for connecting a fan with a chandelier is convenient. This device combines two devices in one, provide general lighting of the room and create air movement in hot calm weather, while saving on air conditioning. Most often, these fans are located in office buildings or small rented workshops, but can also be located in everyday life. When buying such a fan, make sure that the instructions are included in the kit. Former manufacturers they added a section on the scheme of work to it, but due to frequent cases of copying, they stopped doing it.

But if you do not go into details, then the plan for connecting ventilation inside the chandelier is quite simple. An engine is built into the illuminator, which can be switched on either by a separate switch or switching combinations (re-switching on), or together with the illuminator. The last fan connection scheme is not recommended for use, and is quite rare. It is not recommended due to the limitation of such a scheme - when the lighting is turned on, the fan always works, which in cold weather unnecessarily. The recommended connection scheme is separate, when the operation of each function is controlled by its own switch.

A simple diagram for connecting a fan and a chandelier

If you are choosing a fan with a chandelier for your home or home workshop, pay attention to the way the chandelier is grounded, in apartments it is TN-C. In office buildings or change houses, grounding methods may vary, so you can make a mistake. Depends on grounding required amount wires connected to the fan and shield. Caution TT type grounding must never come into contact with other electrical appliances. If we talk about the TN-C system, then two cables, phase and zero, will be pulled through the shield to the illuminator.

It will be necessary to connect zero and PE on the distributor through the terminals. Attention: observe safety precautions. When working with electrical appliances, it is necessary to de-energize the network, and use a multimeter to check the absence of voltage on the wires. Only after that start work. On the distributor for connecting wires, use the terminals, in no case make twists.

In new homes, you can already use the system grounding TN-S. Its use is recommended and is a priority for safety.

The use of TN-S implies the presence of a three-core copper cable in the wiring, one of the cores of which serves to ground the circuit and is connected to the ground electrode in the switchboard. Accordingly, the device must have a ground cable that is connected to this core. The fan connection scheme is different, but it is not possible to voice all of them. When buying, read the instructions, use the proposed recommendation.

ampersite.ru

How to assemble a chandelier with a fan yourself? Simple recommendations with a photo

Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a fan

Air circulation is very important, so the combination of a ceiling chandelier with a fan creates optimal conditions for work. Such lighting devices can provide fresh air at any time of the year. Reviews of these models indicate that the rotation of its elements does not lower the degree in the room.

At the price of lighting fixtures with a fan are different:

in a low price category, which you can buy very inexpensively;
at an average price based on family budget, choose the appropriate quality;
There are luxury models, their price is quite high.

If someone wondered how to connect a chandelier with a fan on their own in three-phase network, here you can find information on this issue.

Before you start connecting a chandelier with a fan, it is important to decide on the choice of its location so that the light falls evenly without disturbing the general mood of the room. If you plan to connect it to the place of the last chandelier, then you can skip this item.

Next, determine the approximate weight of the chandelier and if you find that it weighs more than 13-15 kg, you need to install a beam to help hold the chandelier. If you skip this step, you can damage the wires or the surface of the ceiling. AT ordinary apartments it is unlikely that such a heavy chandelier will be found, therefore, most likely, you can do without installing an auxiliary beam.

Junction box installation

Before you start connecting the chandelier with a fan, you must connect the junction box to the power cable. This must be done carefully and carefully, following all safety regulations.

The heart of the design, that is circuit diagram, should be connected at a distance of a little more than 10 cm with the installed box, a supply of wires after connecting the cable is necessary in case of damage to the wires. Then you need to close all the wires with a special cover. All wires must be insulated and the box tightly bolted.

There are already many reviews that are full of pleasant words in favor of such a design. This is not surprising, because buying such a lamp means giving yourself a soft, pleasant coolness along with gentle lighting. Air conditioners consume a large amount of electricity, which cannot be said about ceiling chandeliers-fans, which can be bought in a specialized store. For example, you can find high-quality, refined and functional model in " Leroy Merlin».

Moscow stores have established themselves as reliable suppliers quality designs, where you can easily find a wide variety of lighting fixtures and inexpensively. A photo of a chandelier with a fan will help you get to know the design better. In addition, the photos that are in this article can be a great helper in choosing a chandelier suitable for dealing with stuffy and stagnant air in the room. The price of a chandelier with a fan is low compared to an air conditioner and it is still more profitable to purchase such a design than an air conditioner and a chandelier separately.

ogodom.ru

How to connect a chandelier with a fan?

The first step is to turn off the plugs in order to de-energize the apartment, if possible, you can de-energize only the area where the chandelier will be installed. It will not be superfluous to make sure that there is no voltage in the sockets of the sockets and on the wires; for this, indicator screwdrivers. Three wires should hang from the ceiling, usually different colors, you need to make sure that they are in good condition, then remove the insulation from the edges and unbend them along different sides from each other so that there is no possibility of their contact.

There are few differences in how to connect a chandelier with a fan from connecting a regular chandelier. The main thing is the ceiling box. For such a chandelier, it is necessary to remove the standard ceiling box and install the one that comes with it. As a rule, it should be located on the ceiling rafters, which will securely hold the mechanism during rotation.

Now you need to determine which wires are "phase", and which, in turn, are "zero". To do this, you need to turn on the voltage and check each of them with an indicator: in the case of a “phase”, it will glow, there should be two such wires. You can find out which wires are responsible for what on the chandelier by reading the installation instructions or by looking at its diagram.

Then you need to turn off the voltage again and start directly connecting the fan chandelier. To do this, you need to hang it on the ceiling mounts and connect the wires according to the principle: phase to phase, zero to zero. At this stage, one must take into account important point: wiring in the apartment and on the chandelier can be made of different materials, therefore it is recommended to use connecting blocks. If you are sure that the wires are the same, you can connect them directly to each other.

It is necessary to adjust the height of the chandelier. The distance from the blades to the ceiling should not be less than 25 cm, however, above the floor level, the chandelier should be at a height of more than 2 meters, otherwise A tall man may be injured. Before you put everything in its place and collect the tools, you need to turn on the power and check if everything works correctly. If not, you need to look for where the error was made.

www.uznay-kak.ru

Chandelier fan + photo

Not every family can afford to buy an air conditioner. Therefore, many people prefer to escape from the sultry heat with the help of a more budgetary, but still effective device, which assumes the presence of a fan in the design. It has many varieties and modifications, one of which is a chandelier with a fan, using which you can not only cool, but also get good lighting in any room.

Advantages

Previously, such devices were common in public canteens and in large rooms industrial purpose. They were not released for use in living conditions. But modern chandeliers often equipped with a fan, making the ceiling light fixture multifunctional.

Among the advantages of chandelier-fans are the following:

Design features and varieties

Design options using a lamp with a fan of various models and in various interiors are shown in the video:

Such devices are made from a variety of materials. These are plastic, glass, metal, wood, fabric inserts, etc. It will organically complement any interior, thanks to the variety of models offered.

You can use a ceiling fan for the most different rooms, where its functions will become simply irreplaceable:

Many models of such ceiling fans are equipped with additional features, for example, the ability to change the fan speed, as well as direction, reverse, remote control, and others. They are divided into universal, having the ability to use in almost any room, and household for home use.

In addition, such a ceiling fan, due to the presence of lighting lamps, may have different kinds illumination - color or with halogen lamps.

Selection and connection rules

When choosing a chandelier with a fan, you should pay mandatory attention to such parameters of the device as:

Fan blade diameter. They are chosen depending on the height of the ceilings in the room, and the dimensions of the blades themselves will affect the intensity of the airflow. If the ceiling height is less than 3 meters, then you should choose a ceiling fan with a blade diameter 2-2.5 times smaller than the area being blown. In addition, the number of blades can vary from 1 to 10. The most common fixtures with fans of 3-6 blades.
Lighting options. In this case, the choice depends on required level lighting that varies and changes with different quantities used lamps and their power, as well as the size of the chandelier itself.

Connecting such a lamp with a fan is quite simple and a person familiar with the installation features of conventional chandeliers will not cause difficulty. This procedure is also facilitated by the connection diagram of a chandelier with a fan, which is usually included in the delivery of the device.

For work, you may need accessories and tools such as a construction knife, screwdriver, puncher (if installed on concrete ceiling), dowels, insulating tape.

Important! When installing such a device, you should take care of sound insulation. ceiling structure if it is made of drywall or tension systems, as the vibrations created by the fan can make the use of such a lamp too noisy.

At the very first stage, a special ceiling hook is fixed, on which the entire structure will be held. To do this, a dowel is hammered into the ceiling, and a hook is attached to it. Three wires are used for connection - for a lamp, for ventilation and a zero phase.

Attention! If there is no experience in working with electrical communications, then it is better to entrust the installation of the device to professionals.

All wire connections must be insulated. If a two-gang switch is used for control, then the wires that depart from it are stripped in turn and connected to the wires of the chandelier. In this case, one key turns on the lighting, and the second one starts the fan.

Conclusion

Choosing a chandelier equipped with a fan for a room, you can get a multifunctional device that will not only provide the necessary degree of ventilation and coolness in the room, but will also be safe for health. It will also help save space and energy.

bouw.ru

Installing a chandelier with a fan

Since ancient times, people have dreamed of a device that creates a refreshing air flow. The first attempts to collect mechanical device, capable of replacing and surpassing fans and fans, were undertaken as early as the 16th century. In the 19th century, a device was invented, thanks to which the rotating impeller moved the air, bringing a feeling of coolness. The impeller was set in motion by the pressure of water, which was supplied through a pipe or hose. There was an attempt to use for this purpose and steam engine.

But the widespread distribution of such devices became possible only thanks to Thomas Edison: with the advent of the electric motor, the fan turned from an inefficient and cumbersome structure into an extremely useful device that creates comfortable conditions.

Since that time, hundreds of models have been created that fully meet the various requirements set.

The types used in everyday life include floor, table and ceiling fans. Next, we will analyze the issues related to the installation of the latest version.

One of the advantages of fans over split systems, in addition to cost-effectiveness, is the ease of installation, which can be carried out without the involvement of specialists.

Installing a "ceiling" is a little more complicated than installing a conventional chandelier. Therefore, if you have minimal skills in performing electrical work, you can start fixing and connecting the device yourself.

Ceiling fans are distinguished by the material of manufacture, the diameter, number and size of blades, power, design and other parameters.

As a rule, all modern models are equipped with a lamp, and the lamp can work separately, a fan separately, or all together.

Ceiling height and room size the most important criteria for selection. The distance between the floor and the blades should not be less than two meters and thirty centimeters - such standards are adopted in order to prevent injury from rotating elements.

The traditional and most successful location of the device is the center of the room. If the room is small, the air flow created by a single fan can provide a comfortable stay in it. In the case of a large area of \u200b\u200bthe room, it may be necessary to install two or more "ceilings".

In some cases, it is required to draw a separate line from the shield to the installation site - if the laid wiring is not able to withstand the load from the engine and lamps turned on at the same time.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the electricity. Then you should check the presence of a phase using an indicator - do not neglect this simple operation, especially since it will not take much time for it.

At the first stage, in addition to turning off the power supply, the preparation of tools is carried out. If the fan is to be installed on site old chandelier, then the next step is to dismantle the lighting fixture.

In most cases, it will also be necessary to replace the ceiling electrical box, which, as a rule, is designed for the weight of only one chandelier. Instead of a box, a special block is installed.

Next, you need to assemble the structure according to the manufacturer's instructions. Let us immediately clarify that in some models the blades and the lamp are screwed onto the ceiling after the rod is fixed. However, in most cases, the fan is completely assembled at the bottom.

The blades to the rod with an electric motor must be screwed as securely as possible, the lamp is fixed with high quality, but carefully so as not to damage the elements.

The wires for connection are pulled out through the central hole.

Do not forget to screw the lamp and close it with a ceiling. Now the assembled device must be securely fixed on ceiling.

on a concrete base, the device is fixed with dowels, mounting brackets with screws;
if the ceilings are suspended or slatted, the fasteners are placed on the main ceiling. This approach is explained simply: the significant weight of the "ceiling", reaching 20 s overweight, requires high-quality fixing. In addition, it is necessary to provide a gap between the decorative ceiling and fasteners so that during engine operation, vibration is not transmitted to the stretched material of the decorative ceiling and does not create noise.

It is necessary to connect the wires of the fan and the wires of the ceiling electrical box in the sequence indicated in the instructions, since manufacturers use different color coding.

The fan is usually mounted on a bracket, to the terminal block of which power is supplied with ground, and then the control unit is connected to the connectors.

After all the connections are made, we proceed to the last phase: we fix the cover, which will give the whole structure aesthetics and completeness.

diskmag.ru

How to connect a fan to a switch

Surely you had to deal with such a situation in your life when there is an exhaust fan in the bathroom and it is turned on with a conventional switch. Often, bathrooms in hotels, sanatoriums, boarding houses, guest houses are equipped this way. Maybe someone from acquaintances or friends saw such a hood? By the way, this is very good idea. And if your bathroom is not yet equipped with such appliances, we advise you to think about installing it. In this article, we will talk about the advantages of the device and how to connect a bathroom fan to a switch.

Advantages

The bathroom belongs to the rooms with high humidity. BUT excess moisture leads to the appearance of fungi and mold, various unpleasant insects, such as centipedes and wood lice. If the bathroom large sizes, it can be equipped various furniture(cabinets and shelves), and high humidity causes separation of materials. Also in the bathrooms are metal constructions(towel warmers, towel holders and toilet paper), moisture accelerates their rusting.

Humidity is also often accompanied bad smell dampness. And it's even worse when the neighbors downstairs smoke in the bathroom, and ventilation duct brings these scents to you.

Condensation also constantly collects on mirrors and walls, which can lead to premature destruction of the tile.

natural ventilation does not always cope with humidity and “aromas” in the bathroom, sometimes it is further enhanced with the help of exhaust systems. One of these options is the fan.

Channel Check

Before connecting the fan, it is necessary to check the condition of the ventilation shaft.

Some advise this way, how to bring a sheet to the vent thin paper. It should be attracted if the hood is good. But it’s still more reliable to check with a flame, you can use matches or a candle. Light a candle and bring it to the hole, the flame should, as it were, stretch towards the channel. If this does not happen and the flame is even, then the ventilation duct is clogged and needs to be cleaned. To do this, you need to contact the special housing and communal services.

Connection methods

Installing a future fan is half the battle, the main thing is to bring a power cable to it. If the bathroom is already done good repair, it will be difficult to do so. The ideal option will be mounting ventilation device at the stage repair work, then the cable can be laid in the walls. Otherwise, he will have to come up with some decoration or plug into an outlet.

Consider the options for connecting a ventilation device:

Scheme of parallel connection of a fan with a light bulb. In this case, both the fan and the lamp will work from one switch at once. That is, the ventilation device will begin to rotate at the same time as the light bulb lights up, and will be in operation as long as the light is on. The undoubted advantage is the simple and cheap execution of such a scheme. However, there are many downsides. If the switch is off, then the fan is not working, and this is not enough to ventilate the room. You will have to turn on and additionally leave the light on for a while. On the other hand, the fan will always work when the light is on, and when a person takes water procedures He doesn't need those drafts.
Circuit from the switch. This method is definitely good, because it eliminates the stupid operation of the hood. That is, the device turns on and off only when it is needed. You can install a switch separately for the fan, or mount a 2-key switching device and power the lighting from one key, and the ventilation device from the second. This option will increase costs, as it will require large quantity cable. After all, the device is already connected directly from the switch by a separate line, and not parallel to the lighting.
The latest models of fans are already equipped with automation, in particular a timer. To connect such a device, you will need a three-core wire or cable, the third core is connected through a light bulb and is a signal. There are two options for the operation of such a fan. It can start at the same time as the lighting is turned on, and then turn off after a set time. Or vice versa, while the light is on, the engine does not start, and as soon as the light goes out, the fan starts to work, and then it turns off after a certain period of time.

There are also fan models that are initially equipped with their own switch. It has the shape of a cord that comes out of the case. Pulling this cord starts and turns off the device. But keep in mind that such models are quite inconvenient to maintain. Fans are usually installed near the ceiling, and this place is difficult to reach in order to reach the cord every time.

Fan mounting

A two-wire cable must be laid to the installation site of the ventilation device. The fan model with a timer is connected to a one- or two-gang switch using a three-wire wire (the third wire will be a signal wire).

Make strobes from the junction box to air vent. Remember that you can only ditch with vertical or horizontal lines, there should not be any inclined ones. Do not make strobes closer than 10 cm to doorways. Lay the cable in the strobe and fix it with alabaster or cement mortar. One end of the cable must be brought out into the vent, the other into the junction box.

You can also run the cable in a corrugated pipe. Be sure to make sure that the corrugation is not located across the vent, it must be moved and secured to the side, otherwise it may obstruct the air flow.

The fan terminals are labeled English letters:

"L" for connecting the phase conductor;
"N" for connecting the neutral core;
"T" - this letter is in models with a timer, it indicates the place where the signal wire is connected.

In a cable, cores are usually distinguished by color. Zero conductor is carried out in blue color, phased in brown or white. Connect the cable cores to the fan terminals accordingly. Check the reliability of the contact connection.

To mount the fan in a ventilation duct, first remove the mesh top cover. On the bottom panel, to which the device itself is attached, there are four holes for self-tapping screws (usually they are included in the kit along with dowels). But if you already have tiles and you don't want to drill them, use an adhesive such as silicone or liquid nails(everything can happen, suddenly the tile will crack or the glaze will chip). Smear them back side covers, insert the fan itself into the ventilation hatch, and press the cover firmly against the wall, hold it for 1-2 minutes and release. Now replace the top decorative cover.

For more information on installing the fan, see this video:

And the connection diagram for a fan with a timer is discussed in detail here:

Switch mounting

Gates from the junction box must also be made to the installation site of the switch (in the case of walls made of drywall sheets used corrugated pipe). In the gates, it is necessary to lay a two-wire wire and fix it with a solution. The ends of the wire must be brought out into the junction box and into the hole for the switch.

The switch consists of a working part and a protective cover with a key. A socket must be installed in the hole. Now take the working mechanism, its contact part has two terminals for connecting wire cores. One terminal is an incoming contact, a phase conductor from the mains is connected to it. The second terminal is an output contact, the phase from the fan will be connected to it. Do it necessary connections and check the reliability contact connections.

Fix the working mechanism in the socket. Install the protective cover and put on the key.

If a switch with two keys is installed, then such a switching device has two output contacts, one of which must be connected to the fan, the second to lighting device. Accordingly, one key starts the ventilation device, the second turns on the lighting in the bathroom.

Wire connection

Now in junction box the following connections must be made:

Connect the neutral conductor from the mains to the neutral conductor of the fan.
Connect the phase conductor from the supply network to the conductor that goes to the incoming contact of the switch.
Connect the phase conductor of the fan to the conductor of the wire that comes from the output contact of the switch.

In case of two-gang switch in the junction box there will additionally be the following connections:

The zero core from the mains will still be connected to the zero of the lamp.
The phase conductor of the luminaire must be connected to the conductor of the wire that comes from the second output contact of the switch.

As you can see, nothing complicated. Be sure to consider installing a fan in the bathroom. Now they come up with a lot of trendy electric things, but half of them are a complete whim. But the ventilation of such a room as a bathroom is really not an unimportant issue. So this article is relevant and helpful.

The plan for connecting a fan with a chandelier is convenient. This device combines two devices in one, provide general lighting of the room and create air movement in hot calm weather, while saving on air conditioning. Most often, such fans are located in office buildings or small rented workshops, but they can also be located in everyday life. When buying such a fan, make sure that the instructions are included in the kit. Previously, manufacturers added a section on the scheme of work to it, but due to frequent cases of copying, they stopped doing this.

But if you do not go into details, then the plan for connecting ventilation inside the chandelier is quite simple. An engine is built into the illuminator, which can be switched on either by a separate switch or switching combinations (re-switching on), or together with the illuminator. The last fan connection scheme is not recommended for use, and is quite rare. It is not recommended due to the limitation of such a scheme - when the lighting is turned on, the fan always works, which is unnecessary in cold weather. The recommended connection scheme is separate, when the operation of each function is controlled by its own switch.

A simple diagram for connecting a fan and a chandelier

If you are choosing a fan with a chandelier for your home or home workshop, pay attention to the way the chandelier is grounded, in apartments it is TN-C. In office buildings or change houses, grounding methods may vary, so you can make a mistake. The required number of wires connected to the fan and the shield depends on the grounding. Caution TT grounding must never come into contact with other electrical devices. If we talk about the TN-C system, then two cables, phase and zero, will be pulled through the shield to the illuminator.

It is already possible to use the TN-S earthing system in new houses. Its use is recommended and is a priority for safety.

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