An overview of low growing lawn grass that doesn't need to be cut. Types of lawn grasses: photo and description Lawn grass with yellow flowers

Mastering a new country cottage area, many are planning a lawn device. If the land in the chosen place is flat, some kind of grass grows on it, you can just start mowing it regularly - and you will have a green lawn. But if there was a forest on the site of the site, or the land needs to be dug for other reasons, you will have to start planting the lawn in accordance with all the rules. We will tell you how to make a lawn in the country with your own hands, what kind of lawn grass to buy, how often the lawn needs watering and mowing.

What is a lawn? This is a specially arranged, leveled area, sown with various turf-forming or creeping low-growing plants. Lawns can be sports, decorative and special purposes.

Sports lawns are created at stadiums, hippodromes and other sports grounds. Special-purpose lawns are needed at airfields, slopes of highways and railways, hydraulic and other structures. Ornamental lawns adorn gardens, parks, boulevards of cities, backyards and summer cottages. Depending on the location and composition of growing herbs, they are divided into the following classes.

First class (highest) - parterre lawns. They are created in the main parts of the architectural composition of the garden, near fountains, sculptural groups, ornamental ponds etc. The main requirement when designing parterres is that the area of ​​the main background should prevail over the area of ​​flower beds and other details in the composition. If the area of ​​flower beds is equal to the area of ​​the herbal base or prevails over it, the impression of fragmentation and variegation is created, there is no integrity in the perception of the whole picture.

The second class is landscape gardening lawns. They must be decorative, long-term, shade-tolerant, resistant to mechanical damage, as well as certain conditions and drought tolerant. Herbs in this case should be selected with a solid turf and various types of tillering.

Third class - meadow lawns. They are created by improving the existing herbage, surface treatment of the turf and overseeding with appropriate grass mixtures.

Lawns have been known for over 3,000 years. We find the first mention of grass-sowing in the Bible, both in the old and in the new Testament. In Persia, so-called grass carpets were made in gardens before new era. Hundreds of years before the new era, one of the first lawns was created in the Chinese imperial park Cheu.

Do-it-yourself lawn: site preparation

First of all, carefully remove debris from the site (stones, bricks, slabs, boards and chips, foil, plastic bottles, bags, film). Never bury rubbish in the ground. This will not create favorable conditions for the growth and development of herbs. Plants in the places of such burial grounds will lag behind in growth, overwinter poorly, and get sick.

The soil for the lawn should be sufficiently moisture-absorbing so that the plants do not experience a lack of moisture. At the same time, water should not accumulate on it, as this leads to the loss of plants. Drainage obligatory in those areas where water stagnates after snow melting, rains, irrigation. Arrange it as follows.

Remove the fertile layer. A layer of gravel (10-15 cm) is laid on the infertile subsoil and compacted. Then a layer of sand (10 cm) is poured and also compacted. Fertile soil (10-15 cm) is sprinkled on top, rolling it with a roller weighing at least 100 kg. The skating rink can be replaced with a barrel by pouring water into it.

On heavy clay soils before digging, from 10 to 15 kg / m2 of sand are added and, digging, mix it with the soil. On light sandy soils add 4-5 kg/m2 of peat.

Digging the soil- one of the most necessary and difficult activities in preparation for sowing. The time for digging the site is dictated by the weather: the soil should be slightly moist, not dry. During digging, it is necessary to carefully select and remove stones, roots of trees and shrubs, perennial weeds from the site, break up clods of earth.

The earth is compacted when it is slightly weathered and dries out after digging. Using a long (2-3 m) flat board, tying a rope along the edges and dragging it around the site, check whether its surface is sufficiently leveled. Stomp on the site, walk along it in small steps. When trampling down, do not let go of the rake: level the ground, collect stones, roots, debris. In addition, it is advisable to walk on the ground with a skating rink.

After digging, compacting and leveling, it is recommended to keep the area under fallow and for several (4-6 or more) weeks to destroy weeds, dormant seeds or pieces of rhizomes that will gradually germinate. To stimulate the germination of weeds, the site is watered immediately after leveling. These procedures take a lot of time, but very effectively clear the site of weeds.

In Europe, lawns appeared after the Crusades. From the 16th century, lawns began to be arranged for various games. First in the Netherlands for golf. Then this game (and for her, the lawn!) spread widely in Scotland and England, and later in the USA.
At the end of the 19th century, sports lawns appeared in Russia. The first lawn mower was invented by Edwin Budding in 1830 in Great Britain. English landowners can also be considered the pioneers of lawn laying: it was in the first half of the 19th century that the types of grasses that gave the best results when sown were selected.

Lawn grasses, lawn planting and watering

For sowing, as a rule, mixtures of herbs are used, and not individual species. A mixture of several (3-5) types of grass adapts and survives on the site more easily under various weather conditions than lawn grass of the same type.

The composition of the mixtures usually includes the following types of grasses: fescue (red, sheep, reed), bent grass (thin, or shoot-bearing), meadow bluegrass, perennial ryegrass. They are unpretentious, have a low growth rate, high winter hardiness and drought resistance, actively resist pathogens, pests and weeds.

How many seeds are needed for sowing? Sow 40-50 g / m2, or 4-5 kg ​​per 1 weave. When buying seeds, keep in mind that in the spring of next year, for overseeding and repairing the lawn, an additional approximately 0.5 to 1 kg of seeds per hundred square meters will be required. When stored for a year, the germination of seeds decreases, but slightly (by 1-2%).

The best time to sow a lawn- spring (May) or late summer (second half of August), when the soil is warm and there is enough moisture. You can sow throughout the summer, even in the very heat, if you regularly water the plants and protect the crops with covering material (lutrasil, spunbond). Covering materials can protect the lawn from birds and wind.

Before sowing, the seeds are thoroughly mixed by adding sand or dry earth (1: 1). The mixture is divided into two (or more) equal parts and one part is distributed over the surface of the soil, passing along the site, the other - across. Places along the paths and along the edge of the lawn are sown somewhat thicker. The sown seeds are lightly covered with a rake into the ground - this will protect them from drying out.

Water the crops in the evening, with soft sprinkling, so that the seeds do not wash out, abundantly, so that moisture penetrates the ground to a depth of 10 cm, but do not allow the formation of puddles and prolonged stagnation of water. dry hot weather hopes for rain can turn into seed death if you leave crops without watering for several days. At the same time, the seeds will swell and hatch, and then dry up before they germinate.

Seedlings appear on the 7-21st day after sowing, depending on weather conditions. On average, it takes 2 weeks for seeds to germinate.

In the middle of the twentieth century, there was a revolution in the science of lawns: special varieties herbs, highly effective pesticides have been created to control pests and pathogens, complex mineral fertilizers for lawn grass stands, the main processes in the care of grasses were mechanized.

Lawn Care: Mowing

In the first year, do not give the lawn a big load, try to walk on it as little as possible. Try to protect it from pets, especially dogs.

lawn mowing not only maintains its appearance, but is also an excellent weed control agent. Most of them do not tolerate haircuts, and after two or three such procedures, you will say goodbye to them forever. Mowing also helps plants to grow on the surface of the soil, forming additional shoots, creating a dense sod, growing with rhizomes.

We must also take into account the fact that each mowing is big for plants. It is easier for them to recover if no more than 1/3 of the stem is cut at a time, no matter how high it is.

The first mowing, as a rule, is carried out during the period when the soil and grasses are dry and the latter reach a height of 10 cm. For the first time, the very tips of the grass are cut off, no more than 1 cm. Lawn mower knives must be sharp. During subsequent haircuts, the knives are gradually lowered lower and lower.

Grass density, its resistance to trampling largely depend on the root system of plants. The more often we mow the lawn and the more we walk on it, the worse the grasses take root, the mass of the roots decreases. To save and restore the root system, give the grass rest periods. This is possible if the ground part grows to a height of 12-15 cm.

Next time we will tell you how to protect the lawn in the country from diseases.

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When shopping for lawn grass, keep in mind that a regular lawn needs to be mowed every two weeks (maximum three) and it's hard work. 3 years old, normal flight. Do-it-yourself lawn: what kind of lawn grass to buy, how and when to sow.

You must have wondered if it is possible to create a lawn based on ordinary grass if it is regularly cut and kept in a well-groomed condition. If you conducted such an experiment, you probably noticed that a lawn made of ordinary grass is hard, even prickly, you can’t especially lie on it and don’t look like barefoot. Grasses specially used for turf are selected for properties that distinguish them from wild species.

Lawn grass does not need to be sown again every spring, and self-seeding does not affect the degree of density of the lawn, this is the merit of tillering (shoot formation), which is included in the set useful properties lawn grass. Lawn grass creates a dense turf that prevents weeds from sprouting and allows you to keep the lawn in an aesthetic form longer. Lawn grass is characterized by the presence of small and delicate leaves, which makes it pleasant for tactile perception, causing sensations of touching something velvety, soft.

To create a lawn, a very limited set of grass species is used, which, thanks to breeding work, have been enriched with many varieties and forms.

How to choose seeds

Naturally, when choosing grass seeds, the intended functions and purpose of the lawn must be taken into account, since different types of lawns will need different grass mixtures. The main components for almost all grass mixtures are bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass and some other herbs, the differences between grass mixtures are the result of a combination of different varieties and proportion of herbs. The varieties bred by breeders have certain qualities useful for the lawn - good tolerance to drought or frost, bright light or shade.

Popular ornamental varieties are bluegrass and fescue, they tolerate a short haircut well and create a dense lawn of rich green color that is comfortable for the eyes. An important advantage of bluegrass is its high resistance to trampling, a small minus is the slow growth rate in the early years.

To give the lawn more dark shade, use just more bluegrass.

Another type of lawn grass, ryegrass, is valued for its good sod, which makes it very useful when you need to restore damaged areas of the lawn. Seeding advice, suitable type soil and other conditions are usually placed on the seed package. Therefore, when choosing lawn grass seeds, we recommend that you carefully read the information provided by the manufacturer on the packaging, from which you can find out the composition of the grass mixture, release date, seeding rate and other useful information.

A few tips when choosing lawn grass:

• seed quality must be confirmed by a state or international certificate;
• you should choose a grass mixture that is optimal for your lawn, taking into account its type and purpose;
• needs to be taken into account natural features a plot with a lawn (type of soil, the factor of the presence or absence of groundwater, the degree of illumination, the cardinal direction, etc.);
• When buying grass mixture outside your area, ask your consultant if it will suit the climate in your area.

What is better for the lawn: grass mixture or monoculture

For lawns of high quality (usually parterre lawns), one or two types of grass are used more often. Herbal mixtures for such lawns are used less frequently, and always from varieties characterized by an even texture and color. Basically, one winter-hardy species grass can create almost any type of lawn.

A quality grass mixture should include perennial varieties cereals with good germination rates. Each grass in the grass mixture has its pros and cons, competent selection implies that the pros of some grasses will balance the cons of others, and thus the lawn will be more resistant to changes in weather, soil quality and other factors external environment. Therefore, grass mixtures are used to create a lawn when there are adverse conditions ( bad soil, shading) or there is concern that the main grass will successfully adapt to the conditions of the planting site. In general, grass mixtures are more in demand when creating do-it-yourself lawns, while monocultures are used for professional lawns such as sports fields for football, field hockey, etc.

Types of grass mixtures

Grass mixtures differ in the varieties of their constituent cereals and other features, which gives them different properties and allows you to use it for different purposes. Grass mixtures can be:

• fast - with their help, you can restore a damaged lawn in a minimum time;
• shady - adapted for planting in shaded places;
• solar - the opposite of the previous variety, well adapted to the bright sun and heat;
• universal - to a certain extent combine the properties of shady and solar grass mixtures.

Calculation of the number of seeds

Gardeners are familiar with the concept of "seeding rate", which is also applied to lawn grasses and represents a value that determines the minimum number of seeds needed to plant a particular piece of land. This norm for different grass mixtures does not coincide and depends on the varieties-components of the mixture and, in addition, it is influenced by soil properties and other environmental conditions. Seeding rate value implies that seeds are used good quality with high germination rates, and sowing is carried out according to the rules.

Gardening specialists have developed a universal norm, suitable for almost all grass mixtures and areas, it is 50 g per 1 m 2, or if you take larger numbers - 5 kg per 1 are. This norm takes into account that sowing may deviate from the prescribed recommendations in terms of uniform distribution of seeds, germination, depth of embedding in the soil, etc. He will tell about ornamental types of cereals and herbs.

We sow the lawn ourselves (video)

Using a seeder when sowing, 25-30 g/m 2 will be enough, with manual sowing this figure will increase by 10%. Smaller seeding rates will lead to insufficient density of the grass cover, increasing the likelihood of weed germination. Exceeding the seeding rate can also have Negative consequences- there may not be enough water in the soil and useful substances necessary for the formation beautiful lawn. If you have any lawn experience, tips and tricks for seeding and the cereals used, please share them in the comments.

Reviews and comments

(3 ratings, average: 4,33 out of 5)

Lera 01.11.2015

I have 2 small lawns sown with lawn grass. One lawn is sown with narrow-leaved bluegrass, and the other with ryegrass. The first lawn looks much more aesthetically pleasing, the grass is even, stuffed like a carpet, and soft, pleasant for bare feet. And ryegrass even looks tough, its bushes are larger, the leaves are thicker and wider. But it grows faster and the color is brighter.

Chamomile 11/19/2015

Is there any way to determine the quality of seeds? We bought a grass mixture, sowed it. The lawn rose, but somehow in bunches. It turned out a clearing all in bald patches. It seems to be taken in a trusted specialized store, but this is how it happened.

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The decision to buy a lawn is not always justified. In some regions of our country, especially in the north and the far east, standard lawn mixtures germinate extremely poorly. However, this is no reason to forego a beautiful lawn, as there are grass varieties that are more hardy than American ryegrass. Let's talk about them.

Any lawn is a modified by selection meadow grass. Some varieties of lawn are artificially created plant crops. Since the main markets for turf mixes are England, Europe and the USA, most breeders create crops designed specifically for climatic features this region. The pinnacle of development was ryegrass. This grass has soft, beautiful leaves and a poorly developed root system. As a result, the formation of tussocks is almost completely eliminated, and grass growth is minimized. Which in turn allows you to mow the lawn only once or twice a month.

Unfortunately, ryegrass is extremely sensitive to temperature. The heat is fatal for him, the cold freezes the root system. Heavy rains wash out the bushes, leaving bald patches on the lawn. Lawn seeds of other grasses improve the situation somewhat, but a number of problems remain.

The most famous domestic lawn grass is bluegrass meadow. In its purest form, it

• grows up to 30-40 cm,
• has rather hard leaves,
• forms a thick thick layer turf,
• requires regular trimming, at least once a week,
• blooms profusely during the growing season and scatters seeds around the site, which leads to the germination of grass where it should not be.

In addition, bluegrass does not tolerate shade well and does not grow under trees.

If we talk about other domestic herbs, they have the same disadvantages. Therefore, it makes sense to think about other options for arranging a beautiful and well-groomed lawn.

Lawn plants

For the convenience of qualification, we divide suitable options on the:

• full carpet,
• flower carpet.

A full-cover carpet is a culture that is able to create a monolithic coating adapted to any type of climate and does not require serious painstaking care. The most common:

• clover,
• thyme,
• european hoof,
• michenia nettle leaf,
• creeping tenacious,

Clover is able to create thick, rich carpets that are very pleasant to walk on. Due to the powerful root system, it is impossible to trample the clover lawn. In place of damaged plants, new ones will quickly grow. In addition, during flowering, clover lawns are transformed and become extraordinarily beautiful. Shearing is only needed at the end of the growing season to eliminate flower stalks. Of the disadvantages - deep roots are difficult to uproot.

Thyme or "incense" is another popular solution. Outwardly, it, perhaps, most of all resembles a classic lawn, with the exception that twigs with small leaves grow around thin stems. Walking on thyme is not very pleasant, in addition, during flowering, the lawn will turn into a small apiary. To avoid this, you will have to cut the grass twice a month or even more often, depending on the climate.

European hoof is very similar to clover, with the exception that its leaves are much larger and resemble a horse's hoof. Although the root system is well developed, it does not go deep into the ground, so the use of the hoof is limited only to regions where the ground freezes by a maximum of 7-10 cm.

Michenia nettle is a very interesting plant from the Far East. Its peculiarity is that in the first year of life the stem grows by 80-150 cm and falls to the ground under its own weight. The nodes of the plant take root, forming beautiful long shoots with wide juicy leaves of a bright green color. The next year, the process is repeated, increasing the density of the carpet. The grass blooms with large purple buds that look very impressive. It is only necessary to start mowing the lawn for 3-4 years, it is enough to repeat the procedure every few years, when there will no longer be room for new shoots to take root.

The tenacious creeper does not look very attractive, never forms dense carpets and is valued solely for the fact that it grows even in places where shading is 60 percent or more.

Perhaps the most interesting option- it's moss. Few people know that there are a huge variety of varieties of this plant, each of which, over millions of years of evolution, has ideally adapted to the conditions of the region of growth. This allows you to make a lawn from local moss, which will ensure its 100% survival. Regarding decorative and functional features:

• pleasant to the touch
• does not trample
• does not bloom
• does not need trimming
• practically does not need care,
• prevents the emergence of weeds,
• does not impoverish the soil,
• in a healthy state it has a uniform color from greenish marsh to emerald green.

If needed nice lawn, adapted for walking, relaxing and even children's games, moss is the best option. In terms of visuals, it is much inferior to the options listed above.

Flower Lawn Carpets

Since most herbs bloom anyway, it makes sense to think about creating a flower lawn. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting that it is impossible to walk on it during the growing season, but the beauty of such a lawn will not leave indifferent even those who are not interested in gardening issues. The most popular cultures include:

• periwinkle,
• Goryanka Colchis,
• moneywort,
• sedum,
• meadow flowers.

Periwinkle is quite an interesting plant, as its foliage remains green throughout the year. In addition, the flowering period is quite long and, depending on the climate, starts from mid-spring and can last until early October. However, this plant is an extremely favorable habitat for various insects, especially spiders. If the lawn is large enough and is several years old, then mice will be the next frequent guests. It is not necessary to trim the periwinkle, and if this is done to drive away rodents, then it will recover for a very long time.

Goryanka Colchis or "flower of the elves" is very tender plant, with unusually beautiful flowers. Its only drawback for creating a lawn is its height of 30-40 cm. Thin stems break easily, and dead bushes do not recover on their own. Therefore, the creation of a whole lawn from Goryanka is not a very successful undertaking, since it will take a lot of effort to care for the lawn.

Meadow tea refers to low creeping plants, similar to ivy. It blooms with large beautiful yellow flowers. Meadow tea is very hardy and creates a low carpet suitable even for a picnic. The plant recovers on its own. Of the disadvantages - it is constantly necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity. On the open sun, without watering the plant will die within 8-10 hours.

If the task is to create a flower lawn designed exclusively for decorative purposes, then first of all attention should be paid to stonecrop. The plants of this family in the bulk are a low stem without leaves, ending in a beautiful large flower. Color occurs:

• yellow,
• Violet,
• blue,
• blue,
• purple,
• pink,
• white.

Some families grow into bushes 40-50 cm high and have a rich crown of leaves, so when buying a stonecrop, you should clarify exactly how the seeds will behave. Best suited stonecrop caustic.

Meadow flowers are a huge group of various annual and perennial plants. All of them are united short stature, endurance and unpretentiousness to the ground. A carpet of meadow flowers is suitable for walking, relaxing and playing sports. Even if the seeds come across annual plants, the next year, starting in April, the lawn will recover by itself. A huge plus is that the plants do not need to be looked after at all, including watering. There is only one drawback - at the end of October, the lawn dies completely and is an extremely unsightly sight. But, it is impossible to remove dried flowers, they serve as top dressing for the soil and protect the seeds from freezing in the winter.

Lawn care

As soon as wild plants enter the summer cottage, they automatically become cultivated. Therefore, certain rules must be followed:

• develop an irrigation schedule
• prepare the ground
• select appropriate fertilizers,
• clipping correctly.

Most creeping plants prefer a moist habitat, flowers are even more fond of water. Therefore, irrigation should be carried out in summer time early in the morning and late in the evening, during the demi-season, it is enough to water the lawn in the evenings, in winter watering is not needed. They stop it when the night temperature drops to 3-4 0 C. The only exception is meadow flowers. From excess moisture, they will begin to rot.

Soil preparation involves an accurate measurement of acidity. Naturally, it is quite simple to carry out liming or vice versa, to increase acidity, but this is an additional expense. It is better to choose a crop that is most adapted to the soil on the site.

Contrary to popular belief, not all plants need and even more love fertilizers. This issue needs to be studied in detail, since excessive addition of nitrogen-containing humus, saltpeter or other additives to the soil will negatively affect the lawn.

Creeping herbs are recommended to be trimmed once a year, after the end of the flowering period. At any other time, the plant will take damage to the bushes hard and become ill for a long time. Flowers are trimmed in the same way. It should be remembered that in regions with severe winters, temperatures of -20 0 C or more, cut stems are not removed. In addition, it is desirable to cover the lawn with a film in order to protect the roots and bulbs from freezing.

The green lawn is growing fast enough. Therefore, in the process of care, it is necessary to protect the future lawn with a special barrier. For these purposes, a sheet of tin is dug into the ground. Depth depends on how deep it extends root system. For clover, this figure is 20 cm, therefore, around the lawn, you need to make a fence of tin with a depth of 25 cm. It is important that the tin comes as close to the top layer of soil as possible.

For plants that take root directly from the stem, this method is not relevant. You have to control them manually.

Since some plants have similar care parameters, they are often combined with each other. This allows you to create a more attractive and vibrant lawn. But choosing crops for the lawn is worth it only after all the subtleties of plant care have been studied.

At the end of the topic, I would like to note once again that the only really justified, practical and fashionable replacement for the classic lawn is moss. So start review options better with him.

In addition to good germination, they have a relatively uniform color, they are frost-resistant and not too demanding on the nutritional value of the soil. Not surprisingly, all of these grasses are present in varying degrees in any grass mixture for lawns.

Depending on the purpose of the lawn, the specifics of the area and personal preferences, various compositions of herbs are selected, which are commonly called lawn grass mixtures. Whether it is a no-mow area or a trample-resistant turf, the composition of the grass mixture for lawns will differ in each case.

Garden lawn: composition of herbs

Caring for a landscape gardening or ordinary lawn does not require constant intervention. The grass cover is dense and hides the occasional presence of wild grasses, in particular wheatgrass. Therefore, some special lawn grass is not required - broad-leaved cereals with the addition of fescue, bent grass are suitable.

What grass to sow for a garden lawn?

Bluegrass (Poa nemoralis)

Perennial lawn grass that forms loose, soft tufts. It grows about 30–100 cm in height. The width of leaf blades is 1.5–2 mm. Flowering occurs in May-June, the size of the panicle is 10 cm.

This grass is usually included in the mixture for the lawn, broken at the foot of the trees does not require good lighting. Suitable for moist, acidic soil. But frequent haircuts of the Bluegrass forest lead to its loss and depletion.

Bluegrass meadow (Poa pratensis)

Ornamental lawn grass, perennial, grows up to 100 cm. Loose sods make up narrow leaves. June-July is the flowering period. The plant prefers meadows, fields, steppes, illuminated edges, is not afraid of trampling.
ON THE PICTURE:

Ordinary lawns, especially on light stony soils, shady areas almost always contain. It should be borne in mind that this lawn grass is unsuitable for planting on chalky and excessively moist soils. In addition, frequent low haircuts are contraindicated for her.

Among the varieties of meadow grass meadow, the most suitable grasses for the lawn are:

• 'Andante' - squat plants, characterized by increased resistance to diseases such as leaf spot.
• 'Connie' - turfs are undersized, painted in rich green. Grow densely. The variety is resistant to many diseases and trampling.
• ‘Compact’ - representatives of this variety with narrow leaves are also resistant to mechanical impact, are characterized by rapid growth, tolerate dry periods well.
• ‘Balin’ - increased endurance, disease resistance, rapid growth - the main characteristics of this variety.
• ‘Sobra’ - quite attractive and very resistant to external influences variety.

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua)

Usually an annual, but occasionally a perennial herb. Sods are from 5 to 35 cm tall, panicles are small - no more than 1 cm. The plant prefers to settle near the road, hides in ditches, quickly fills trampled places. If ordinary lawns only benefit from the presence of the annual Bluegrass, then in the parterre it is considered a weed.

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The species grows on any soil, great for a low haircut. At high temperatures leaves turn yellow and lawn grass may fall out.

Common bluegrass (Poa triviales)

Forms sods with short creeping rhizomes. Stem size 20–120 cm wide smooth leaves up to 6 mm, color - bright green. The species is distinguished by the ability to take root quickly, prefers heavy and calcareous soils, likes to settle in wet areas. However, the plant does not differ in particular frost resistance. In addition, common bluegrass loses its attractive appearance with prolonged trampling and is not resistant to drought.

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Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne)

A distinctive feature of this species is a pink hue at the base of young leaves. The leaf blades themselves are light green in color, 4 mm thick. Some cultivars are characterized by even narrower leaves, slow growth and good tolerance for short haircuts.

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The plant is a frequent component of the composition of grass mixtures for landscape gardening lawns. It tolerates heavy soils, is resistant to trampling, and can grow rapidly. Popular varieties Perennial ryegrass:

• ‘Figaro’ - multi-purpose use, increased resistance to trampling, dense cover and immunity to many diseases - the main differences between the perennial ryegrass ‘Figaro’ variety.
• ‘Taya’ - used when creating a multi-purpose lawn, providing a dense and healthy look of the coating. The main characteristics are resistance to drought, endurance, increased resistance to trampling.
• ‘Sakini’ - plants of this variety are characterized by slow growth, but quickly take root. Wear resistant.
• ‘Juventus’ - this variety was bred specifically as ornamental grass for lawns, creating a dense cover of green, medium-thick leaves. Plants are distinguished by increased resistance to stress, in particular - elevated temperatures, fungi that cause leaf rust.
• ‘Speed’ - representatives of this variety take root quickly, forming a dense, high turf that is resistant to wear.
• ‘Danilo’ - herbs suitable for forming beautiful lawns, with narrow green or dark green leaf blades. They grow densely, are resistant to wear.

Meadow fescue (Festuca pratensis)

Another perennial grass for lawns, equipped in medium-moist areas. When flooded with melt water, it can grow for about a month without compromising its health. In height it meadow plant can reach 140 cm, but usually much lower (30–100 cm). The leaves are narrow, flat. Meadow fescue blooms in June, panicle size up to 18 mm. Resistant to trampling.

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Timothy grass (Phleum pratense)

Plants form loose bushes, the height of the stems swollen at the base is from 15 to 120 cm, the width of green / gray-green leaves is up to 10 mm. It is added to grass mixtures for landscape gardening, meadow lawns.

Tufts of Timofeevka meadow are not afraid of trampling, they prefer moist heavy soils. A low haircut is contraindicated, as well as landing in sandy soil.

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Common comb (Cynosurus cristatus)

The height of the stem of this perennial is from 20 to 75 cm, the leaf blades are very narrow. Flowering occurs in June-July, with the formation of dense spike-shaped panicles.

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It grows well on light soils, in nature its usual habitat is meadows, glades. Resistant to trampling.

How to choose grass mixtures for parterre lawns?

The emerald green of the parterre lawn is distinguished by its uniform color and ideal Smooth surface. To achieve this effect allows the presence in the composition of the grass mixture for lawns Polevitsy various kinds, Fescue. But for pasture ryegrass, cereals with wide leaf blades, the entrance there is contraindicated. On the territory of Russia, Bluegrass meadow is usually used to create a parterre lawn. And of course, such a site requires regular low haircuts.

The best grass mixtures for parterre (or as it is also called "English lawn") include the following types of cereals:

Sheep fescue (Festuca ovina)

Perennial lawn grass that forms dense sods or tussocks. The height of the stems is from 20 to 40 cm, the leaf blades are very narrow - no more than 0.7 mm. Meadows, sands, boron, clearings, glades - the plant is widespread throughout Russia. Differs in good tolerance of regular mowing, drought-resistant, wear-resistant.

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In addition to the lawn, they are used to create rocky gardens, mixed borders.

The best varieties:

• 'Discovery' - hairy leaves of dark green color, form a dense herbage. Compared to other varieties of Sheep Fescue, ‘Discovery’ is the most drought tolerant and best tolerates soil salinity.
• ‘Triana’ and ‘Reedu’ - A distinctive feature of these varieties is increased drought resistance and the ability to adapt quickly.

Red fescue (Festuca rubra)

The rhizomes of this perennial form loose tufts. The base of the flat leaves is colored red with a brown tint, the width of the leaf blades is up to 2.5 mm., maximum height stem - about 80 cm. Flowering occurs in June-August, spike-shaped panicle up to 10 cm in size. In nature, it prefers glades, meadows, sandy soils. It is frost-resistant, tolerates trampling well, and is not afraid of shaded places. This type is part of almost all popular grass mixtures for lawns.

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Red fescue subspecies red (Festuca rubra subsp.rubra)

A rhizomatous grassy herb. The leaves are very narrow, grow in bunches. The plant is drought- and frost-resistant, feels good on light soils. It grows quite slowly, so it can be mixed with other slow growing species of Fescue. It is found both in parterre and sports lawns.

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• ‘Pernille’ - is valued for its narrow, very strong leaves, dense cover and increased resistance to diseases.
• ‘Diego’ - Glossy pale green leaves delight the eye throughout the growing season.
• 'Laxton' - this variety is distinguished by a dense cover and increased resistance to rust. Due to its glossy leaves, it looks good on home lawns.
• ‘Rapid’ , ‘Ruby’ , 'Echo' - most famous varieties, are popular as drought tolerant and reliable herbs.

Variable red fescue (Festuca rubra commutata)

Parterre lawns are not complete without this species. It coexists without problems with other cereal grasses, the most aggressive of which can displace Red Fescue. The plant takes root quickly, forming a dense turf without shoots. Good for low shearing, drought tolerant, prefers light soils.

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Dog bentgrass (Agrostis canina)

The height of this perennial grass is not more than 30 cm. The rhizomes are thin, short, the shoots take root on the surface, forming an elastic dense turf of rich green hues. The plant likes to settle on waterlogged peat soils, but it also develops other types of soil well. Differs in frost resistance, well transfers a lack of lighting.

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The first year grows at a slow pace, the formation occurs in the second, more often in the third year.

Thin bentgrass (Agrostis capillaris)

The short rhizomes of this perennial form into a loose turf cover. The height of the stem is 10–60 cm, the width of the delicate bright green leaves is up to 4 mm.

Prefers glades, sandy soils, mixed herbs low-growing meadows. The grass is characterized by slow growth, regular shearing allows you to form a neat grassy canvas with a dense structure. resistant to frequent pruning, but does not tolerate trampling.

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White bent grass (Agrostis alba)

A distinctive feature of this lawn grass is the ability to form numerous offspring shoots, as well as a branched root system that holds the soil well. In this case, a strong elastic turf is formed. Dark green leaves reach a width of 2 mm.

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The grass grows slowly in the year of planting, loves light soils, but tolerates sandy and loamy soils well. Resistant to trampling and frequent pruning. Decorative with proper care up to 10 years of age. It is used in lawns for various purposes.

Shooting bent grass (Agrostis stolonifera)

Perennial loose soddy grass-like grass with a length of creeping shoots up to 40 cm. Flat short leaf blades are painted in light green color, reach no more than 5 cm in length, up to 2 mm in width. As the name implies, it is capable of producing long side shoots, which easily (and most importantly - independently) take root in case of damage mother plant. This property often attracts inexperienced gardeners and often leads to uncontrolled growth of cereals with the capture of any more or less free space.

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The plant prefers loamy, sandy and sandy soils, but it is also not afraid of saline and acidic areas. Frost-resistant, resistant to spring weathering. However, in autumn it requires as low a haircut as possible, otherwise the grass will be withered in spring.

Varieties of Polevitsa shoot-bearing:

• ‘Prominent’ - high density of herbage, narrow dark green leaves make it possible to use this grass, in particular, for arranging golf courses. The variety is distinguished by increased resistance to pink spotting.
• ‘Cromi’ - forms magnificent lawns, suitable for formation of a cover of a golf course. Provides dense herbage and is resistant to low mowing. Differs in winter hardiness.

Grasses suitable for meadow lawn

A meadow is an area with herbaceous plants whose stems are relatively stiff. Strong trampling of such a lawn is contraindicated. Exactly like a frequent haircut, which is enough once a month.

The composition of the grass mixture for the meadow lawn should include the flora characteristic of the local natural area. In particular, this may be:

Soddy pike (Deschampsia cespitosa)

Light green leaves up to 3 mm wide. and stems 30 to 100 cm long form turf tussocks. Very decorative grass, prefers swampy meadows, banks of water bodies, is characterized by the ability to form whole thickets. Good for mixborders.

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Dispersed beskilnitsa (Pussinellia distans)

Perennial turf grass with stems 15 to 50 cm long and dark green leaves about 55 mm long. width. In nature, cereal can be found on the banks of reservoirs, along dirt roads, saline soils. Not seen in culture.

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Bonfire soft (Bromus mollis)

An annual, rather ornamental grass, not demanding on the type of soil. Flowering is long - May-September. Responds well to mowing.

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Awnless Rump (Bromopsis inermis)

Perennial grass, has a cord-like rhizome with root shoots. The stem grows up to 100 cm, dark green leaves are quite wide - from 4 to 10 mm. The habitat of the cereal is sparse forests, meadows, river sands. The awnless rump is distinguished by its unpretentiousness, resistance to mowing and trampling, and is not afraid of shaded and waterlogged areas. Responds well to nitrogen fertilization.

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Hedgehog (Dactylis glomerata)

Shade-tolerant perennial grass, grows to a height of 35–120 cm. The leaves, reaching a width of 5 to 20 mm, have a light green color. Prefers meadows, can settle along roads. The hedgehog grows well on fertile soils, but with sufficient aeration, it feels good on heavy loamy and moderately acidic soils.

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Cranked foxtail (Alopecurus geniculatus)

One or two-year-old plant up to 40 cm high with green leaves. Due to the violet-colored anthers, the flowering Foxtail cranked is especially decorative. The banks of water bodies, wet marshy soils - this is where you can usually find representatives of this species.

Meadow Foxtail (Alopecurus pratensis)

Perennial lawn grass, forming loose sods. The height of the stems is from 50 to 120 cm, the width of the juicy green leaves is from 4 to 6 mm. The anthers of the cylindrical inflorescence are white-pink, the flowering period falls on June - at this time the plant has the most decorative appearance.

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Meadow foxtail prefers sandy, poor soils, is not afraid of prolonged flooding by rain and melt water, and is good at mowing.

Creeping wheatgrass (Elymus repens)

The perennial has very long branched rhizomes and stems from 50 to 120 cm long. Leaf blades up to 10 mm wide. Prefers glades, meadows, coastal sandy soils. The plant is not suitable for parterre and landscape gardening lawns, where it is considered a weed. Component of a grass mixture for lawns for special purposes, a component of lawns.

The grass is polymorphic, sometimes gray and green, hairy and naked. Any soil is suitable for its cultivation.

The correct composition of the grass mixture for lawns: we prepare it ourselves

Manufacturers usually sell ready mixes grass seeds for lawns with a balanced ratio of different species. But, having the necessary planting material, you can mix the seeds by yourself. We give examples of the most common grass mixtures for various classes lawns.

Gardening:

• Thin bent - 1 part;
• Red fescue - 2 parts;
• Fescue red changeable - 3 parts;
• Bluegrass meadow - 4 parts.

Parterre:

• Red fescue - 2 parts;
• Thin bent - 8 parts.

Lugovoi:

• Meadow fescue 1 part
• Red fescue 3 parts
• Perennial ryegrass 6 parts.

The functional "duties" of the lawn can be compared to the purpose of the living room in the house. In addition to decorative purposes, this part suburban area can serve as a place for children's games or picnics. In this article, we will talk about the correct choice and planting of lawn grass.

It should be noted right away that green lawn has the ability to improve the microclimate of the suburban area due to:

• effective control of airborne bacteria;
• excellent absorption of dust and vibrations;
• reduce the cost of eliminating weeds.

But to create a beautiful and healthy lawn, it will take a little effort and time. At the initial stage, you will need some knowledge about the types of lawn grasses. After all, they are the basis for creating a high quality lawn.

Depending on the timing of growth, there are three main types of herbs:

• annuals;
• biennial;
• perennial.

Annual plants live only one year. In them, after the seeds ripen, all the ground and underground organs die off. These include annual ryegrass and bluegrass.

Biennial grasses (multiflorous ryegrass, hop alfalfa) are characterized by the formation of stems, leaves and roots in the first year of life, and fruiting shoots (fruits, seeds and flowers) in the second year.

As for perennial grasses, their development phase provides for:

• death of shoots in the first year;
• the appearance of buds at the root of plants;
• growth of shoots from these buds next year;
• annual vegetative renewal of the root system.

The most successful solution would be sowing on the site of perennial grasses. Their most important characteristic is life cycle. It depends on the speed of flowering grasses. Plants that differ in slow development from germination to flowering have the maximum period. These should include:

• bent grass;
• red fescue;
• meadow bluegrass.

Grow fast enough:

• pasture wheatgrass;
• rootless wheatgrass;
• multicolor ryegrass;
• comb.

Highly important criterion for lawn grass is the degree of development of the root system. On this basis, plants are divided into:

• loose bush;
• rhizomatous;
• rhizome-loose bush;
• tap root;
• dense bush.

In loose shrub grasses (meadow fescue, comb grass, rootless couch grass, most types of ryegrass), the root system is located near the earth's surface. They have one tillering node and an above-ground sprawling bush that gives many shoots.

Rhizome plants (white bentgrass, bluegrass, meadow foxtail and several types of red fescue) are characterized by the close location of the root process to the surface of the earth. Underground shoots have several nodes at once. Thanks to rapid growth new root system, the appearance of stems and the constant presence of herbage during long period time.

Such rhizomatous-loose shrub grasses as red fescue, meadow bluegrass and bentgrass have long and short roots. This leads to a dense and uniform settlement of the soil. In most cases, these plants are the basis for creating lawn cover High Quality.

Taprooted grasses include red and white clover, blue alfalfa, horned rock and sainfoin. Their distinctive feature is the presence of a dominant shoot, which is located near the surface of the earth. The growth of young shoots is carried out on a large tap root, which becomes thicker every year and penetrates into the soil to the maximum depth. Such plants are distinguished by an attractive lush bush that does not require special care.

The tillering node of densely bushy grasses (furrowed and sheep fescue, belous) is located above the surface of the earth. New shoots are attached to old shoots. When grass grows, bumps appear. For this reason, planting and caring for dense bush plants is done very carefully.

There is another classification of lawn grasses, which depends on the height of the shoots. Distinguish plants:

• upper tier;
• middle link;
• lower tier.

The upper tier consists of light-loving herbs. They have thick stems, reaching up to 1 m in height. These lawn grasses include:

• vicoleaf sainfoin;
• creeping wheatgrass;
• awnless fire;
• narrow-skinned bastard.

Plants of the middle link (yellow alfalfa, hybrid clover, pasture ryegrass, meadow timothy grass, meadow fescue) reach a height of up to 0.6-1 m. The main advantage of their use is that after cutting they begin to bush well. And this makes the lawn more attractive.

When creating the lower tier, grasses are used that have thin stems and grow up to 0.7 m. These include:

• meadow bluegrass;
• red fescue;
• white clover;
• horned loon;
• bent.

After mowing, a dense, squat coating is formed.

Especially popular is the planting of lawn grass, which is a mixture of plants. Moreover, mixtures of herbs are produced for various climatic and soil features of the area.

The most versatile of them is the Lilliput lawn compound. It consists of seven components that are characterized by increased resistance to many environmental factors:

• 3 types of red fescue (Reverent, Oliva, Independence) - 55%;
• meadow bluegrass Brookclown - 20%;
• red hairy fescue Helena - 10%;
• thin bent Highland - 10%;
• shoot-bearing bent grass Kato - 5%.

Variety of lawns and distinctive features of the right cover

There are two main types of lawns:

• special;
• decorative.

The former are also called sports surfaces. They are designed for sports and children's games. Sports turf is resistant to increased loads. It can host friendly matches in football, tennis, field hockey and badminton.

The main goal of a decorative lawn is to create a stylish and harmonious landscape design. Moral satisfaction and attractive aesthetic properties are the main advantages decorative coatings for a person.

It is these two qualities that make the second type of lawns more in demand. Moreover, there are plenty to choose from. Decorative lawns are divided into:

• parterre;
• Mauritanian;
• roll;
• meadow.

Parterre smooth lawn coverings are distinguished by an excellent landscape. They will look great around flower beds and along long avenues. Walking on parterre lawns is undesirable. Therefore, they act only as original decorative elements.

Moorish lawns are non-standard and elegant coverings. They consist of flowering summer plants no more than 0.5 m high. This type of lawn does not require close attention. The main thing is the timely watering of the site. Coverage is updated once a year.

Rolled lawn covers are suitable for those owners of a suburban area who are interested in quickly creating a picturesque green lawn. They differ in simple laying technology. A load-resistant rolled lawn needs:

• deliver to the installation site;
• spread correctly;
• tamp and water.

The main purpose of meadow lawns is planting grasses in areas with a huge area. Moreover, not only grass is planted in the ground, but also various garden flowers. The presence of lighting will create favorable conditions in the winter.

Regardless of the type of lawn cover, it must meet a number of requirements. The main criteria for arranging a proper lawn are:

• effective weed control;
• normal growth after application of mineral fertilizers;
• resistance to freezing and disease;
• the fastest process of rooting plants;
• the presence of a powerful branched root system;
• ability to vegetative reproduction and growth on depleted soils;
• slow growth rates and the preservation of bright colors after a haircut.

Moorish lawn device

One of the most common decorative coatings is Moorish lawn. This is not surprising, since it has many advantages. The main ones are:

• probability of growth on any type of soil;
• minimum requirement for care;
• affordable price of lawn grass;
• low installation costs.

Moorish lawn is similar to a bright green meadow in which a variety of flowers grow. Conventionally, its creation consists of the following steps:

• selection of grass and flower seeds;
• definition of landscape configuration;
• soil preparation;
• sowing seed material;
• plant care.

When choosing grass seeds, it is necessary to comply with a number of requirements that are typical for the Mauritanian lawn. These include:

• the presence of undersized plants;
• the number of flowers in the lawn should not exceed 20%;
• mixing seeds with sand in a ratio of 1:3 before sowing.

The main herbs for the lawn are:

• annual ryegrass;
• common field bent;
• thin bent;
• red fescue.

As for flower seeds, preference is given to those that will bloom in different dates. The main condition is the low height of the plants. To decorate the Mauritanian lawn fit:

• cloves;
• hyacinths;
• calendula;
• terry tulips;
• primrose;
• dwarf zinnias;
• daisies.

When determining the shape of the area planted with lawn grass, proceed from personal preferences. Although in most cases the rectangular shape is the most common.

You need to start preparing the soil for the Moorish lawn in the fall. The site is dug up and brought in organic fertilizers. Further work is carried out in the spring. They provide:

• digging the soil to a depth of 10 cm;
• removal of weed roots;
• introduction ammonium nitrate(10-15 g/1 m²);
• watering the site;
• leveling and tamping the surface of the earth.

The need to compact the earth is due to the fact that in the presence of a load on the lawn:

• the soil will go down;
• from contact with shoes on the lawn, pits from traces will remain.

This will lead to a loss of attractiveness of the coating and complicate its care.

Sowing works are carried out in the following order:

• loosening the topsoil (2-3 cm);
• spreading seeds throughout the territory (10 g of seeds mixed with sand per 1 m²);
• covering the seeds with earth;
• watering the site (water from the sprinkler should pour, as in light rain);
• covering the planted area with plastic wrap for several days.

Moorish lawn care involves the implementation of timely:

• glaze;
• removal of weeds;
• treatment of herbal diseases.

In the presence of rot (fusarium), part of the lawn cover is removed along with fertile soil. If powdery mildew appears, then the plants should be treated with a fungicide and reduce the amount of watering.

Additional plant care includes spring cleaning of the lawn surface from dry grass, debris and leaves. After 2-3 years after sowing, the lawn is strongly compacted. In order for the access of air to the root system of grasses not to stop, it is necessary to carefully pierce the ground with a pitchfork 1-2 times a year.

Features of creating a sports lawn

A distinctive feature of a sports lawn is the need for a drainage system. The coating should not be in puddles or mud, and the grass should be moved without slipping.

The process of creating a drainage system involves the following work:

• the upper soil layer is removed to a depth of 0.5-1 m (depending on the level of groundwater);
• a slope of the lower part of the drainage to the extreme parts is created (for 1 m of length - 5-10 mm of slope);
• plastic or asbestos-cement pipes are laid at the very bottom of the trench with an interval of 5 m;
• holes are made in the pipes every 25-30 cm, which are covered with fibrous material;
• laying geotextile material;
• collector device (pipes are used, the diameter of which exceeds the diameter of the drainage pipes by 2 times);
• the slope of the collector pipes towards the water intake is provided;
• backfilling the trench with rubble.

Collector and drainage pipes do not need to be connected. Their ends are brought to the surface of the covered gravel. You also need to think about the construction of the well. It should have a diameter within 1.5 m, and a depth of up to 2 m (located below the collector).

After laying the pipes, a subsoil cushion is created. It consists of crushed stone, gravel and sand. It is better when sand and gravel have different grain sizes. The creation of a pillow provides for the consistent laying of materials, starting with a large fraction and ending with a fine one.

Conventionally, the filling of the trench from the bottom up will occur as follows:

• large granite rubble;
• small gravel;
• big gravel;
• fine gravel;
• sand.

The technology of the subsoil cushion device involves covering all communication elements of the drainage system with gravel and crushed stone. Sand is used to level the surface.

The size of the subsoil pillow can be completely different. The main thing is that its upper part should be at a level of 25-30 cm from the subsequently laid lawn. All layers are compacted, followed by watering. Be sure to make a slope towards the drainage collectors.

For crops of a sports lawn are used:

• red fescue (the main grass, which is part of the lawn in the range of 40-60%);
• meadow fescue;
• creeping bent;
• white bent;
• common field bent;
• meadow bluegrass;
• perennial ryegrass;
• common comb.

The grass planting technology for the sports turf is identical to the Mauritanian turf. The only difference is the seeding rate, which is 45-50 g/m². Seedlings are rolled when they reach a height of up to 5 cm. When grass grows up to 16-18 cm high, the first haircut is made.

Lawn installation video: