Sponge for grouting tile joints. Grouting tiles - the choice of composition and proper application

They say "Starting is half done". But, as practice shows, the final stage of work is no less important. This also applies to the process of laying tiles. Rather, its final stage - grouting. A well-done job can hide some cladding defects, while poor grouting ceramic tiles spoils the whole look of perfect styling.

The technique described in the article is suitable for both wall and floor ceramic tiles.

Types of grouting materials

In the modern construction market, there are two main types of grouting materials. The first is based on cement, the second is based on epoxy.

Grouts based on cement are dry mixes. They are diluted in most cases with water, less often with latex. There are also ready-made grouts on sale, but their cost differs significantly. In addition to cement, the mixture includes various additives, the presence and ratio of which forms the difference between the grouts.

All available compositions cement base, designed for grouting ceramic tiles, are divided into 3 classes:

dry hardener;
industrial cement;
latex mix.

Epoxy grouts In addition to the epoxy resin, they also include a hardener. A mixture of components of this building material allows to form between ceramic tiles strong seams, resistant to shocks and the action of various chemical substances.

This type of grout is used, as a rule, in commercial premises and enterprises. Firstly, epoxy compounds are more expensive than cement ones. Secondly, they have a more viscous consistency, which causes certain difficulties during operation: epoxy grouts are used if the thickness of the laid tiles is more than 12 mm and the width of the joints is wider than 6 mm, otherwise the grout simply cannot seep into narrow joints.

Joint width between tiles

Width between tile joints~3 mm is one of the most popular

The width of the joints between the tiles to be laid depends on the preferences of the installer: some people like the joints wider, some narrower. Strictly established dimensions no. There are only recommendations that allow you to choose "your" option. So, for example, when laying tiles with side dimensions of 10 - 60 centimeters, it is recommended to make seams of the order of 3 mm. But if the tile has irregular shape, to which you do not want to draw attention, it is better to leave the gaps wider, but not more than 12 mm.

Over 12mm grout seams you should not do it, because with an increase in size, their strength decreases proportionally. Cracking of such a joint can be avoided by adding coarser sand to the grout and strictly observing the proportion between the diluted mixture and water (than more water, the less durable the seam will be).

Some are afraid that their seams will be wide and make another mistake: leave such a small distance between the tiles that it is then difficult to fill them with grout properly. As a result, water seeps into the lining through the seams.

Choice of grout color for tiles

As a rule, the color of the grout is matched to the color of the tile. There may be some deviation in tone - a tone lighter / darker, but designers do not recommend making a sharp contrast. Of course, sometimes they do this, but this is a rather bold decision.

If you need to choose the color of the grout for the tiles laid on the floor, then you should not give preference to the white composition, even if the tile itself white color. After a few days, the seams will turn gray, and with a dirty tint. It is for this reason that light gray grout is selected under white floor tiles.

The grouting process

And now directly about grouting. This process consists of several stages and requires careful preparation.

1. Preparation of tools and materials

So, what can we use?

Materials:

grout
sealant

Tools:

scraper with rubber nozzle or roller
paint roller or paintbrush
stitching
wooden stick with sharpened end
grater
bucket
sponge
piece of cloth
plywood (when laying tiles on the floor)

Do not ignore the means personal protection. These include rubber gloves and goggles. If you have to work with a grout containing cement, then a respirator will not be out of place.

2. Preparation of grout solution

The grout is prepared, as a rule, in a dry and clean bucket:

Initially, about 70-75 percent of the required volume of liquid is poured into the container.
The dry ingredient is gradually added to the liquid (water or liquid latex additive according to the instructions).
After all the dry ingredients have been added and thoroughly mixed, the remaining liquid is added in small portions.

You should constantly check the consistency of the resulting mass: the liquid can be used to prepare the grout somewhat less than indicated in the instructions.

When the grout is ready, it must be allowed to brew. Enough 10 minutes. During this period of time, the remaining dry lumps will have time to soak in the liquid.

After such an “infusion”, the grout should be mixed again, but already so that it becomes completely homogeneous (homogeneous).

3. Applying grout to the seams

You can apply the grout with both a large and a small spatula, the main thing is that the grout fits snugly into all the seams

Before you begin to apply the grout, you must make sure that the adhesive on which the tiles were laid is completely dry. AT without fail debris should be removed from the seams.

Do not forget about the separators between the tiles, which, despite the assurances of some manufacturers, can be left in the seams, it is better to eliminate them. The fact is that by rubbing the seams over such “crosses”, you risk ruining the entire appearance its finish: the grout above the dividers will lay down more thinly, acquiring a slightly different color after drying.

Glazed tiles can be grouted immediately, otherwise the top and sides of the tiles must be sprayed with water.

The grout mass is applied to the surface of the tile with a trowel, then distributed with a grout, as if pressing into the seams, and not covering them. The denser the spaces are filled, the stronger they will be.

Before you start grouting a large area of tile, you should find out how quickly this composition dries. To do this, grout is first applied to not large plot. It is possible that everything will continue to be done in pieces of 1-2 m 2, or maybe it will be possible to process 9-10 m 2 at once.

4. Removing Excess Grout from Tile

Remove excess grout with a sponge or soft cloth

After filling the joints, remove excess grout with a grater. This is the so-called dry removal. After it, the grout is allowed to set and the excess is wet removed. For this procedure, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (preferably with rounded edges).

At the first stage, using a sponge, remove all excess grout from the surface of the cladding. Do this with gentle circular motions, if necessary, rinsing the sponge from sand and cement particles and squeezing well.
At the second stage, it is necessary to check all the grout seams, whether they are even. If a marriage is detected somewhere, it can be corrected with the help of jointing, a wooden stick with a sharpened end. They trim the edges of the seams with the same sponge, gently moving it along the seam, removing the protrusions and filling the recesses with grout. As a result, all seams should have the same shape and depth.
Then the final cleaning of the cladding from grout residues is done: with a clean and wrung out sponge, slowly and smoothly run along the seam on one side, then on the other. So process the entire surface of the laid tiles. Do not forget to rinse the sponge and make sure that it does not pull the grout along with it. If this happens, the seams are not aligned very well, they have a lot of grout that needs to be removed. After wet cleaning the seams must be allowed to dry (15 minutes), and then remove the plaque on the tile left from the grout with gauze or a soft cloth.

5. Finishing seams with sealant

A thin, neat layer of transparent sealant will protect your walls and floor from moisture.

Tile joint sealers include silicone, lacquer, or acrylic to prevent excessive water absorption and staining of the finish. Before applying the sealant, the tiles and grout in the joints must be allowed to dry well (this takes several days, weeks).

Sealant is applied to the seams strictly following the manufacturer's instructions this material. It is convenient to use a paint roller when performing work (in the case of covering both seams and tiles) or a small brush (in case of sealing only seams). Often, small tubes of sealants are sold with a brush on the end (as in the picture).

Careful maintenance of tiles includes regular coating with sealant at intervals of 2-2.5 years. When processing only seams, it is necessary to remove the sealant that has fallen on the tile immediately.

Repairs may seem endless if you "pull the cat by the tail." In fact, each stage of the work is not so difficult, if you approach the matter competently and smoothly. This attitude requires to itself and grouting between tiles. It is imperative to rub the seams, as this will improve the aesthetic appearance and help hide various defects in the cladding. If the work is done poorly, then you can easily spoil all your work. Therefore, today we turn to the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles so that the kitchen only pleases with its brand new transformation, and all possible flaws are veiled as best as possible.

To make it clearer for you, we have compiled today's material into three main parts:

1. How to grout the seams on the tiles correctly?
2. How to remove grout?
3. If the grout is cracking...

Preparatory work

Grouting should not be started without making sure that the tile adhesive is completely dry. Before performing work, you should also clean the seams themselves from dust, debris and other dirt. Those. the surface for grouting must be prepared. Do not forget to remove the dividing crosses. It is highly undesirable to leave them, because after rubbing these places will immediately catch your eye - the grout will lie thicker, and therefore will differ in color from the seams above the separators.

The side edges of each tile must be wetted with water if you are dealing with unglazed tiles. The fact is that the grout contains moisture, and the unglazed surface tends to absorb it. But it is necessary to wet the edges of the tile carefully so that moisture does not accumulate in the tile joints, and large drops of water are not visible on the tile itself. Otherwise, excess moisture will damage the grout, causing it to crack over time. Usually, manufacturers write all necessary instruction on grout packaging.

If glazed tiles were used in the kitchen, then you can rub the seams on the tiles immediately after the glue has dried. Tiled edges do not need to be wetted.

How to grout the seams on the tiles correctly?

Before grouting ceramic tiles, you need to prepare all the necessary tools in advance. So, you will need:

Grout
- rubber spatula or rubberized roller, trowel bag
- a respirator (it is needed only for cement grout)
- a piece of plywood (if you are grouting tiles on the floor)
- sealant (what it is for, we will also tell)
- a small brush or paint roller
- sponge and clean cloth
- bucket and water
- protective equipment (goggles and rubber gloves)

Progress

There are two ways to grout tile joints: with a rubber spatula or using a grout bag. Choose the method that is convenient for you.

Important: tiles must be clean! It should be free of dust, dirt, and glue residue. The grout lines need to be cleaned too! And the tiles must be dry before grouting.

How to grout tile joints with a spatula or grater?

Look at the packaging of the purchased grout. It should indicate the right proportions for dilution of grout (do not forget to check the expiration date). Carry out all the manipulations according to the instructions (for this you have prepared a bucket). Ready grout is suitable for use in just 20 minutes. So don't dilute too much. The grout is distributed with a trowel (choose with glued porous rubber) or a rubber spatula. Now, using a spatula or grater, lay a slide of grout on the tile and begin to distribute. The tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and the grout should be applied with diagonal movements. Try not to smear the grout on the surface of the tile, but rub it into the seams, pressing it in with force. If the seam is filled with substance tightly, then proceed to the next one. Your task is to fill all the voids and corners around the tile well with mortar.

When the first 5 minutes have passed after filling the joint with grout, wipe the tile with a damp cloth. It should not be too dry or too wet. Water can wash out the grout or change the color of the grout.

Do not start wiping a large area at once! Choose a work area of 1 square meter and gradually move on. So you will understand how soon the grout will seize in order to start removing excess.

How to grout the seams on the tiles with a grout bag?

Typically, a grout bag is used on surfaces that are difficult to clean later. A trowel bag is similar to a pastry bag in many ways. First, a special tip is put on the bag, the width of which is equal to the seam between the tiles. Then grout is added to it, which is squeezed directly into the seam through the tip.

Start filling the tile joint from top to bottom. Those. placed the tip in upper part, began to squeeze out the grout, leading the hand down, and then in the same way, squeezing out the substance, leading the hand up. And so on, until the seam is tightly filled with mortar. It is very important to do this work not around each tile separately, but along the entire length of the seam. Start with horizontal seams first, and then move on to vertical ones.

Another nuance of working with a grout bag is the compaction of a dense layer after setting with a smooth metal tube with a diameter greater than the width of the tile joint or jointing. Those. when you filled the seam, and the grout seized a little, it needs to be tamped. Consider this moment! Therefore, it is necessary to squeeze the grout into the seam a little more so that after tamping there is no gap. Instead of a tube, you can use the end of a toothbrush. Try to keep all seams looking the same.

It takes about half an hour to completely set in the seam of the compacted grout. After that, you can start removing the excess. How this is done is described below.

How to remove grout?

The grout is removed in three steps!

Stage one - dry removal

When all the seams are grouted, take a grater with porous rubber glued on. She will remove excess grout from the tile. Hold the tool at a 90 degree angle to the tile. Start moving the grater diagonally with respect to the tile joints. It is impossible to drive a grater horizontally or vertically, since there is a high risk of damaging the worn seams. Then you have to add grout to them again. After removing all excess grout, wait for it to fully set and only then proceed to wet removal.

Stage two - wet grout removal

Grout in tile joints seizes and hardens much longer than grout on tiles. If in the first case, the time can stretch up to half an hour, then in the second, only a few minutes can suffice. To make sure that the grout in the seams is completely dry, you need to strongly moisten the sponge with water and wipe a small area of \u200b\u200bthe seam with it. If the grout stretches behind the sponge, then it is not completely dry. We'll have to wait some more. Wet removal begins only after the grout has completely dried in the tile joints.

Then take a sponge with rounded edges, moisten it with water and proceed with careful circular movements on the tile, gently comparing the seams. This is how, gradually, all excess particles of sand and cement will be removed. Don't forget to rinse the sponge and change the water in the bucket. Remember that water can wash out the grout in the joints. So don't overdo it. Leave the seams to dry for 25 minutes.

Stage three - remove grout residues with acid-containing products

After wet grout removal from the tile, you may be left with a small white coating on tiles or hardened grout stains that cannot be removed with water. To get rid of these defects, use acid-containing products. For example, Deterdek or Litokol.

If you have tiled the floor, then to dry it better, cover the tile with plywood.

Sealant will help the tiles stay beautiful for a long time

We think that a lot is already clear from the title itself. Sealant helps prevent stains on ceramic tiles and prevents seams from being absorbed excess moisture. The most common range of sealants is based on silicone, varnish or acrylic. Choose based on the type of tile and grout you have used.

Cover the tiles with sealant only when the joints are dry (the grout drying time is indicated in the instructions) and ceramic tiles. Therefore, first take care of the cleanliness of the surface. Sealant can cover both the entire tile as a whole, and only the seams. In the first case, you need a small paint roller, in the second - a small brush. If you pass only the seams with sealant, then remove the excess that has fallen on the tile immediately.

It may be necessary to cover the tile with sealant again in a couple of years. The actions are all the same.

What type of grout to choose for tile joints?

All grouts can be divided into two main categories: cement-based or epoxy-based. When choosing grout for tiles, always read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. For example, a silicone sealant in your case is not suitable for tile joints. Its purpose is to fill the voids between the tiles when laying on another surface. Be careful!

Cement based grout

It is sold both in the form of a dry mix, which should be diluted, and already finished version. You understand that everything that is ready is more expensive. Cement-based grouts differ in additives - industrial cement, dry hardener, latex mixture. They should only be used in special means protection - a respirator, goggles and rubber gloves. Take special care of your eyes and hands. cement grout can adversely affect the lungs and skin, cause inflammation and eye irritation.

Epoxy grout

For such a grout, you need wide seams. For example, tile joints less than 6 mm wide and tiles up to 12 mm thick are not suitable for epoxy grout. It simply cannot penetrate there, because it has a rather viscous consistency.

If the grout cracks

It may happen that after a couple of weeks the grout suddenly began to crack. And there are several reasons for this:

1. The grout dilution technology specified by the manufacturer was not followed. Those. you have added too much water. Therefore, when excess moisture began to evaporate, the grout layer began to sag - hence the cracks (the grout mass in the tile joints decreased).

2. The tile itself can also absorb water from the grout.

3. The instructions for grouting always indicate the width of the joints for which it is intended. If you ignored this point, then the appearance of cracks is inevitable.

4. Unleveled surface for tiling.

Options for correcting the situation:

1. If you used white grout, then in defective places with an ordinary construction knife, carefully scratch the grout and apply a new one over the old layer.

2. If you used colored grout, then the method described above will not work. The new color can mix with the old layer and give a different shade at the end. Therefore, you will have to completely remove the grout from the seam and fill it with a new one. Removing grout from all tile joints is very expensive. Great risk of damaging the tiles. Therefore, do it only in places of cracking.

Important!!! If you do not pay attention to the cracks, then over time they will only expand. Therefore, it is better not to let everything take its course.

What grout to choose for tiles?

The color of the grout plays an important role. For example, white grout in combination with dark tiles will emphasize the laying geometry, and in the opposite situation, it will smooth it out. Dark grout fades over the years, and white is covered yellow coating(you can try to wipe it off with a melamine sponge).

The grout is applied to the seams of the tiles to hide the small chips and notches remaining on the edges of the facing material. Silicone and epoxy compounds protect walls from the accumulation of moisture and fungus, cement varieties improve adhesion between individual fragments. Jointing begins with a choice quality material, preparation of a plastic solution and preparation of sutures for the procedure.

Grout varieties

Seams in the living room and bedroom are processed cement mixtures. They consist of a binder obtained from gypsum and clinker, colored pigments and additives that are responsible for the rapid hardening of the paste and its plasticity. Cement-based grouts are inexpensive, have a variety of color scheme but not resistant to moisture. Compositions are rarely used to process seams in the bathroom. Instead of water, a latex plasticizer is added to the solution, which will be in regular contact with various liquids and steam.

Seams in rooms with increased level humidity is rubbed with epoxy. The composition of the powders includes hardeners and pigmented resins. Epoxy grouts are expensive, but they are stain resistant and detergents do not absorb moisture. Solutions prepared from pigmented resins are thick and viscous, so only professionals who have repeatedly sealed joints between tiles can handle them.

Corner and deformed seams are treated with silicone sealants. They are not as durable as cement and epoxy mortars, but they have several advantages:

mask the defects of the facing material;
resistant to moisture;
have antifungal properties.

Silicone sealants come in a variety of colors, but over time they can turn yellow. The solutions are elastic, but with regular contact with food, they become loose and gradually begin to crumble.

Seams up to 5 mm wide are rubbed with cement or epoxy mixtures. Large joints between tiles are sealed with compounds that contain sand. The additive increases the strength of the grout, but makes the surface of the joints rough. Solutions with sand come in only two shades: gray and white.

Part quality mixtures should include:

impregnation;
varnishes;
cement;
latex.

The components provide the elasticity and strength of the paste. Bath and kitchen grouts should contain antifungal agents.

Solution preparation

Beginners can buy at construction stores liquid mixtures that do not need to be diluted with water. It is enough to open the package and seal the joints. But ready-made formulations expensive and stored less than dry powders for the preparation of solutions.

Usually, 250-300 ml of water is taken per 1 kg of dry mix. Some manufacturers have different proportions than the standard. Before preparing the solution, you need to carefully study the instructions, which indicate the ratio of the workpiece and the liquid.

The grout is mixed with water in a clean bucket or basin. If old cement or other solutions remain on the walls of the container, they will react with the grout, its elasticity and tightness will decrease.

Pour 50–60 ml of water into a bucket. Add a quarter of the grout, knead the mass with a spatula or hands. The paste is brought to homogeneity. Gradually pour in water, then pour out a new portion of the powder. Ready solution insist 10-15 minutes, and then apply to the prepared seams.

Liquid grout should not be stored for more than 12-24 hours. It becomes covered with a film, becomes unusable. It is better to mix as much powder and water as needed per 1.5 square meters. m.

Seam preparation

The gaps after removing the fixing crosses are cleaned of the remnants of tile adhesive and dirt. The dried mortar is scraped off the edges of the facing material with a spatula or clerical knife. Instead of tools with an iron blade, a wooden stick is used. It does not leave nicks and scratches, but slows down the process.

Tile adhesive is removed not only from the edges, but also directly from the seams. A spatula with a pointed blade or a screwdriver will do. The tool should penetrate to a depth of 5–6 mm. Gaps after processing with a spatula are cleaned with a stiff brush or a paint brush. She will remove the remnants of debris and glue.

Floors and walls after removal frozen solution vacuumed. This is one of better ways cleaning the seams from building chips, glue and dirt. After the gaps between the tiles, wipe with a damp cloth or soft sponge. When they dry, start applying the grout.

If the surface of the tile is porous, close the edges masking tape. Use a tape 3-5 mm wide, which is glued along the seams. It is difficult to wash porous ceramics from grout residues, you will have to paint over stains special formulations. It's easier and cheaper to buy a roll of tape.

Application and tamping

The seams on the wall are overwritten after 7 days, when the tile adhesive has completely hardened. The gaps between the tiles before work are moistened with water. The liquid is applied with a thin brush. Moisture ensures adhesion of the grout to the substrate.

The seams on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen are covered up after a day. The owners of the apartment cannot forget about the existence of these rooms for the whole 7 days. They regularly use the toilet, stove and sink, bring dirt and debris into the room. It gets into the seams and reduces their hygiene and tightness.

The gaps between the tiles before grouting are treated with antifungal compounds. The preparations are applied after cleaning the seams from building glue and dust. Leave for a day until dry. Apply the grout with a rubber spatula. Additionally you will need:

a bucket of warm pure water without detergents;
large sponge with hard surface;
cable with a diameter of 0.5 mm smaller size seam.

A thick paste for grouting gaps between the plates is poured into a small tray or bowl, which is convenient to hold with one hand. The second compresses the spatula. A little mass is scooped up with a tool and applied to the seam. The grout is rammed with a rubber blade so that voids do not form between the dried mass and the wall. The smaller the portion of the paste, the easier it is to distribute it over the gap between the tiles.

Well-packed grout is elastic and dense. Beginners will realize that there are no more voids when the spatula cannot penetrate the joint filled with paste. The tool will meet resistance.

The remains of the grout are removed with a spatula, which is set perpendicular to the seam. The rubber blade moves slowly down or to the side. Excess paste is returned to the grout container. Divorces are not washed off immediately, but after 20-30 minutes.

Seams after processing are left to dry. The paste will take 20 minutes to become plastic. Until the grout has completely hardened, the formation and jointing of the gaps between the tiles is carried out.

In a bucket with warm water dip a clean sponge or rag and wring it out thoroughly. If there is too much liquid left in the rag, it will soak into the grout. Moisture is the cause of bright spots on the seams. They stand out from the background pale grout and they look ugly.

Sponge dipped in water is carried out along the gap between the tiles. hard surface will remove upper layer grout, because it should be 0.2–0.3 mm lower than the edge of the tile. With a rag, wipe off the remaining paste from the ceramic surface until it dries. After each processed seam, the sponge is dipped into a bucket and rinsed. The foam blank, on which the grout remains, washes out the dried paste and leads to deformation of the seam.

It is not necessary to grout the gaps between the tiles. The procedure is designed to form flat and smooth seams without depressions and pits. You will need a cable 15–20 cm long. Before work, the workpiece is washed or wiped with a damp cloth so that dirty stains or stains do not remain on the surface of the grout.

The cable is lightly pressed with a finger into the plastic paste and carried out to the corner of the tile. The grout that has come out of the seam is removed with a damp sponge. If the mass has become bumpy, you need to run the cable through it a second time. The pits and depressions left after the jointing are carefully sealed with fresh grout. Prepare a small portion of thick mastic and apply to problem areas with your fingers. Press in and leave to dry. If there is too much grout, there may be areas that differ in color from the rest.

Final processing

Mastic that has come out of the seams is swept away with a dry rag. Paste particles that have had time to dry are removed from the ceramic surface with a grater. The tool is shaped like a wide scraper with a rubber nozzle.

The grater moves diagonally. The wide blade is positioned perpendicular to the seam. Pieces of putty that have separated from the wall are removed from the tool by hand. It is impossible for lumps of mastic to fall into the gaps between facing material. They can damage the dried grout layer, and you will have to re-treat the seams.

Important: It is very difficult to remove dried paste from embossed or glossy tiles. It is recommended to remove the remains of the grout immediately, before they have hardened, and wipe the edges of the tile with a rag or toothbrush.

The ceramic surface is cleaned of mastic residues with a damp sponge or rag. Wet grout removal is carried out 20-30 minutes after the paste has been removed with a grater. Glossy gloss tiles will be returned special solutions, which include:

lemon juice;
ammonia;
table or apple cider vinegar;
mustard powder;
salt;
toothpaste;
detergent.

One component or a cocktail of several ingredients is diluted with water. The sponge is moistened in the solution and carried out along the wall. If a stretching trace of the color of the grout remains on the surface of the tile, you need to wait another 10-15 minutes.

Sponge is carried out on a ceramic surface, removing the remnants of mastic. The foam blank is rinsed after each tile so that no stains remain. When old mortar acquires a dirty shade, prepare a portion of the new.

After wet cleaning, carefully inspect the seams and fill the grooves left after the sponge. Wait for the grout to dry, then polish ceramic surface with a dry soft cloth to restore the tile to its original shine.

The mastic is covered with a layer of silicone sealant until it dries completely. Protective material must be used for processing seams in the bathroom and kitchen. Translucent paste prevents the appearance of fungus. The sealant is applied with a thin brush if only the seams need to be processed. The foam roller grips both grout and ceramic tiles.

Clean and dry facing material is polished. Spray the surface with a glass and mirror cleaner, and then wipe the tile with a soft cloth until it begins to shine.

Even a beginner can fill the gaps between the facing material with mastic. The instructions will tell you how to prepare the grout of the correct consistency. Hands will get used to the spatula in 5-10 minutes, and after half an hour the beginner will determine by eye how much paste to put in the seam. The main thing is not to be afraid of tools and follow the recommendations so that everything works out.

Video: a master class on grouting floor tiles

The final step after laying the tiles is sealing the seams between the tiles. In addition to the aesthetic component, a properly made joint will allow the coating to "breathe", prevent the ingress of excess moisture and dust, and ensure its long-term operation. Further, it is shown how do-it-yourself tile grouting occurs, and nuances are considered that will help to avoid mistakes.

What is this article about

Preparatory work

Regardless of whether it is planned to cover the seams on the walls or on the floor, it is required to clean the surface of dust, mortar residues, glue and remove all spacer crosses. Before grouting tiles, the surface and side cuts of unglazed tiles should be moistened with water from a spray bottle or treated with a transparent sealant. If you neglect this advice, then the tile will take away some of the moisture from grout mixture which will cause it to crack. In addition, it may stain. Before sealing the joints, it is better to treat them with an antifungal agent.

Types of grout

To answer the question of which tile grout is better, you need to conditionally divide it into the following types:

cement compounds. Most popular among beginners. Sold dry and ready-made. You need to dilute to the state of liquid sour cream, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Considering that the mortar used hardens quickly, it is more economical to purchase a dry mix and prepare it in batches. Leftovers may come in handy in the future to renew the grout. Minus - the seam, has a rough structure, cracks, gets dirty;
epoxy. Suitable for seams floor surface, that is, places with increased load and humidity. If the distance between the tiles is 1-4 mm, then it should not be sealed with an epoxy mortar, it will not be drawn into the joint. It is important that the gap between the plates is at least 5 - 6 mm. This will facilitate the application and rubbing of the mixture, since in its finished form it has a viscous, tight structure. The seams are smooth, resistant to chemical and mechanical influences. Minus - a short interval before setting, as a result, it is difficult to remove residues from decorative surface. Expensive in cost;
polymeric. They contain silicone that is not sensitive to temperature changes. Suitable for floor tiles when arranging a warm floor;
epoxy cement. This grout for tiles is used more for outdoor work. It is resistant to environmental influences.

Please read the instructions before purchasing to determine if this grout is compatible with the adhesive used to lay the tiles. Whether the solution needs to be infused or not.

Required Tool

Since you need to apply the grout on the tile quickly, you should prepare in advance:

rubber gloves, goggles, it is desirable to have a respirator;
rubber spatula;
a container for preparing a solution;
water, grout, sealant;
foam sponge, polishing cloth;
window cleaner;
roller or thin brush.

Main stage of work

If the grouting of ceramic tiles will be carried out on a vertical plane, then work is carried out from top to bottom. If on horizontal surface then from the far wall to the door. Instructions on how to properly grout the seams on the tile:

Putty is prepared in a small container. It should be noted that the hardened solution is not diluted again, it is thrown away;
Initially, you need to grout the tiles on an area of 1 - 1.5 square meters. This will allow you to evaluate how much a portion of the grout will last, how long it will take before it sets. To have time to remove excess mortar from the decorative surface in time.
Next, it must be applied with a rubber spatula to the seams between the tiles. During the work, the spatula is held at an angle of 30 degrees, the mixture is rubbed with diagonal movements in relation to the line, pressing the solution with force to fill the joint more tightly. Excess is removed along the seam line. How to make putty joints more accurately? Professional grouting technology is almost the same. They take a special bag (similar to a pastry bag) with a straw at the end and process first the horizontal and then the vertical seams. This significantly reduces the time spent when cleaning the remains of the solution on ceramic tiles. The solution layer should not go beyond the borders of the tile;
How to seal the seams between the tiles and the wall? In places where the tiles adjoin the walls, use silicone sealant. It has an antimicrobial effect, protects against moisture penetration;
In order for all lines to be the same in depth, you need to properly wipe the seams. Someone picks up a piece of sheath from the wire and finishes the seams until they are completely set. Someone is using their forefinger and conducts them, giving uniformity to the joints. A stick rounded at the end, a round spatula will also work;
It doesn't matter if you want to grout tiles on the floor or on the walls, after 15-20 minutes after grouting, you need to check if the tile surface can be cleaned. To do this, a dense foam rubber sponge is carried out along the wall. Soak it in water first and wring it out. If the grout does not reach for the sponge, then the closed gap has seized and the base can be cleaned. You will need a bucket clean water. The sponge is moistened, squeezed well and with light, circular motions, wash off the remnants of the grout mixture.

Since you will have to actively grout the seams on the tiles, it is important to pay attention to two aspects:

keep the water and sponge clean so that stains do not form;
prevent the accumulation of water in the seams and their washing out.

If the solution still hardens, then it is removed with an abrasive grater moistened with water, then with a sponge made of foam rubber.

Professionals recommend treating the tile gap with an antiseptic solution. And in order to ensure the sealing of the seams at the tiles on the floor, they are processed epoxy resin. At the end of all work, the surface is wiped with a dry cloth or rag to completely get rid of the grout. Polishing with toothpaste, table vinegar, lemon juice, with ammonia will remove the remnants of the grout and give the surface a finished glossy look. You can cover the surface with a transparent sealant, for this use a paint roller. It should be noted that on the tile on the floor, the grout dries within two weeks. To ensure that the grout is completely dry and not damaged, plywood is laid on the floor.

Seam care

It is important not only to properly wipe the tile, but also to care for it during operation. It is necessary to constantly monitor the cleanliness of the seams, treat them 2 times a month with disinfectants. Bleach joints with peroxide or soda.

Save the rest of the dry mix, as cement-based grout will have to be used repeatedly. What are the recovery options?

to update the color, overwrite the seams sandpaper, dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner and covered with special paint;
if the height from the old seams to the edge of the tile is 2 mm, then they are rubbed with large sandpaper, dust is removed, moistened, a new layer is applied;
or get rid of old seams completely. To do this, soften them with an acidic composition and remove them with a joint expander. They clean it with coarse sandpaper, remove dust, wash it with an alkaline solution (soap is diluted), wait for it to dry, remember how to use the grout and get to work.

The decorative coating will last long years. It is only necessary to correctly lay the tiles and make the grout that meets the requirements of a particular room. Keep the seams clean and then the beauty and durability of the tile will delight you every day.

When grouting after tiling, two significant results can be obtained. First, a harmonious surface is created that will fully comply with design ideas. Secondly, the possibility of mold and mildew is neutralized, and general pollution is also reduced. Naturally, the work must be carried out in compliance with certain rules.

There is a certain period of time that must be waited before necessary measures. So, the grouting of ceramic tiles is carried out one day after laying the material. Much depends on the glue used. Why can't we wait longer? There are several reasons for this:

On the second day, the mixture used for lining retains a little elasticity. This means that it will be easy to remove when cleaning the seams. Subsequently, you will have to make much more effort.
The moisture remaining in the solution promotes better adhesion. Of course, it is possible to wet the gaps additionally. But this can lead to some disadvantages: it becomes liquid and less elastic. Working with such a mixture is much more difficult.
Open seams get dirty quickly. Small particles of dust and dirt quickly get into open holes and clog them. This leads to the fact that it becomes much more difficult to apply the solution.

It becomes extremely clear that such work must be done on time. Then it will be possible to get a coverage that will meet all the necessary requirements.

Grouting after laying ceramic tiles is carried out after a day

Solution preparation

For work, you can already use ready mix, which is sold in hardware stores. It just needs to be mixed well before use. There are also dry solutions, they have to be diluted in advance. For cooking you will need the following:

Water room temperature. She is allowed to settle beforehand so that possible inclusions settle to the bottom of the bucket.
Mixing container. It should be comfortable to work with, and also be larger than the intended amount of the mixture. It should be borne in mind that the amount of material being prepared must be such that it is used up before drying begins.
Spatula or trowel. This tool is essential for kneading. Of course, you can use a drill with a mixer attachment, but given the small amount of mixture being prepared, this will be a pointless exercise. It is better to do everything by hand to get the desired result and not to collect the solution from the walls of the container.

Grout mortar is best kneaded with a spatula or trowel

The cooking process looks like this:

Each grout for tile joints contains instructions from the manufacturer. It indicates the amount of water needed to prepare the desired volume of the mixture.
Water is poured into the mixing container. Next, a small part of the material is poured. Now you should mix the composition well. If it turns out too dry, then more water is added, or vice versa.
All components must be diluted to a pasty state. After that, the grouting solution is left for five minutes. Then the stirring is repeated.

It turns out a homogeneous substance, which has sufficient viscosity and elasticity. She is very comfortable to work with. But after a while, the properties will begin to deteriorate.

After mixing all the components, a viscous and very elastic mixture is obtained.

Grout technology

It should be borne in mind that grouting tiles with your own hands is carried out in several stages. The area of continuous work should be two square meters. This is how you get everything done right. Of course, when there is enough experience, the process is much faster.

Before grouting tiles, prepare essential tool: rubber spatula, grater, rags, sponge, spatula for forming a seam (smoothener).

Immediately before applying the grout, it is necessary to prepare the necessary tools and rubber gloves

The next steps are:

When unglazed tiles are used, they are pre-wetted. This is done with a sponge, which helps water penetrate deep into the joints. But this must be done very carefully, it is impossible to prevent the occurrence of streaks and the formation of excess moisture. When the material is glazed, this process can be skipped.
Advice! It is better not to use tile sponges that are used for washing dishes. There are other options, they are sold in departments for car service.
The pre-prepared mixture is applied to the grater for grouting. The tool is placed at an angle of thirty degrees to the surface and they begin to move it diagonally. This method is used due to the fact that when performing a horizontal or vertical movement, it is not possible to apply the composition evenly.

When applying grout to a tile, move diagonally

The grouting procedure requires some effort. It is necessary to press on the grater so that all possible voids are filled. You can also use a rubber spatula to work. But then the process will take much longer. After all, you will have to press the solution in small portions throughout the entire area of \u200b\u200bwork. The spatula is great for hard-to-reach places and corners.
On a note! Corners are a very prominent place that gets noticed a lot. Therefore, work in such areas must be done very carefully.
Having filled all the gaps in the selected area of work, proceed to the grout using the dry method. To do this, clean the grater from the remnants of the mixture and place it at an angle of eighty degrees to the surface. And again, all movements are performed exclusively diagonally. This makes it possible to remove excess composition. It happens that unintentional removal of the mortar from the seam occurs - then the mixture is applied again.
The surface is left for fifteen minutes. During this time, you can overwrite another area. Now it's time to use the wet method. To do this, the sponge is moistened in water, and very abundantly, and they begin to drive it diagonally. But before proceeding with these manipulations, they check that the putty is no longer removed from the seam. You have to experiment a little first.

The next stage is coming. It resembles the previous one, but the differences are that the sponge is well wrung out. And the movements should be circular. Excessive pressure should be avoided. Because it can be removed grouting material. It must be remembered that the sponge must be constantly rinsed and squeezed well.
On a note! Such a process can quickly spoil the sponge, turning it into a useless thing. Therefore, you should have a spare product.
Sealing between tiles is not finished. Next, it's time to use special devices to form beautiful gaps between adjacent elements. It is convenient to use a special spatula, it looks like a small round stick. When the procedure is completed, the next turn of the sponge comes. It is led parallel to the seam - erasing all unnecessary. It is possible to obtain a rounded seam. If this is not required, then the gaps are simply leveled flush with the tiles.

It seems that do-it-yourself grouting of ceramic tiles is coming to an end. In fact, it should be borne in mind that the event is quite long and requires further continuation. Now you have to wait until suture material dry enough, and it will be possible to begin to remove the remaining excess, which will be everywhere present on front side products.

For work, an irreplaceable sponge is used, which is well washed and squeezed. With quick movements, it is carried out over the surface to the length of an outstretched arm. Each successive pass must be parallel to the previous one. If everything is done correctly, then in this way it is possible to remove all the remnants of the solution. Of course, it will be difficult to do this completely, but it is not necessary. The main thing is to remove large excess from the tile, which will dry quickly.

Sealing

Sealing - required process, which is performed immediately after the completion of the trowel work. It is needed to give a seam increased strength. This will protect it from exposure to various chemicals and water. The choice of material is approached with all care. For work it is better to use compositions that are completely transparent. They are made from silicone.

On a note! This solution has a rather specific smell, similar to ammonia. Therefore, it is better to perform work in a respirator.

The sealing process makes the seam more durable

Before sealing joints protective compounds, are determined from next steps, which will be focused on the type of ceramic product:

Glazed material. All activities must be carried out very carefully. Such a surface is very easy to damage or even completely spoil. Therefore, the work area is additionally pasted over with masking tape. And for work, sealant is used in tubes, which is applied with a special gun.
Products without glaze. Many craftsmen advise covering the entire surface with a protective compound, including tiles. Of course, you will get a layer that will protect it from various influences, but this will spoil the whole appearance. In addition, there is a high probability that such a layer will peel off.

It becomes clear how to use grout and protective compounds. Sometimes it is believed that such work does not require compliance with many of the steps described. You can apply the mixture and quickly form a seam. But the result will be rather deplorable. Therefore, only strict adherence to all technological processes– a guarantee of reliability, quality and attractive appearance.

VIDEO: how to properly rub the seams on tiles

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