Brick filter well. Filter well - what it is and the nuances of work. Necessary tools and materials

Let's return to the “METHODOLOGICAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CALCULATION OF THE QUANTITY AND QUALITY OF WASTEWATER AND POLLUTANTS TO BE ACCEPTED IN SEWERAGE SYSTEMS OF SETTLEMENTS”, and let's talk about filtering wells and underground filtration fields, as I promised in the third part.

I quote the document: Filter well The filter well consists of a bottom filter, walls and ceiling. The bottom filter is made in the form of a backfill of gravel, crushed stone, sintered slag with a particle size of 15-30 mm inside the well and at outer surface walls 300 mm wide. To the height of the filter, the walls of the well are made with evenly distributed holes with a diameter of 40-60 mm with a total area of about 10% of the wall surface. The walls of the filter well are made of precast concrete, monolithic concrete or solid clay bricks (in the latter case, holes are provided due to gaps in the masonry).

Strictly speaking, a filter well can be made from anything that is at hand. old barrels, rubble stone, tires .... It is important that you get a container of the required volume and with “leaky walls”. She doesn't have a day. Instead, a filter made of small pebbles, brick battle, the mentioned gravel, crushed stone, slag, expanded clay, etc. It is also not necessary to make a high filter inside the well, a 200-300 mm layer is enough. It will clog more often, but it will also be easier to clean.

But sprinkling with crushed stone around the well is very necessary, since it is precisely this that is the “working part” of the filtering well. Holes in the walls of the well, at the same time, must be made to the entire height of the well, from the supply pipe to the bottom of the crushed stone backfill inside. Of course, making a well from reinforced concrete rings is much easier and the result will look more elegant than a well from rusty old barrels. But it will also cost more, installation is harder, and the result is the same. The design of the product is still hidden by the ground, but the functionality is preserved. Choose for yourself, here, as they say, to each his own.

I will continue to quote: ... Supply tray wastewater the pipeline is placed 100 mm above the top of the bottom filter, and the open end of the pipeline should be located in the center of the well ... This is, if you still decide to make a well with a sufficiently high backfill inside. If you followed my advice, then it is better to leave the open end of the pipe on the edge inner surface well (it’s easier to clean), and its tray will have a mark just below the exit mark from the septic tank, taking into account the slope of the pipe that drains into the well.

Filter well: 1 - base (plate); 2 - coarse-grained filter material; 3 - perforated riser pipe; 4 - ventilation riser; 5 - weather vane (cap); 6 - bulk soil; 7 - distribution tray; 8 - cast iron hatch; 9 - waterproofing from roll material; 10 - supply pipe; eleven - brickwork in a run;

The estimated filtering surface of the well is calculated based on the load on the area of the bottom filter inside the well and the area of holes in the walls of the well to the height of the filter, which is 100 l/day per 1 m2 in sandy soils and 50 l/day per 1 m2 in sandy loamy soils... And if in loam? Take these numbers as a guideline for a rough estimate. To calculate accurately, you need to have data on the filtering capacity of your soils, and this is a very troublesome business. If you want to do “according to science”, call geologists and order surveys from them, which costs a lot of money. If you want to be “homemade” - proceed from these numbers, and for loam, increase the radius of the filter sprinkled with gravel.

The base of the filter must be located at least 1 m above the groundwater level. With a distance between the filter base and the groundwater level of 2 m or more, the load can be increased by 20% ... Without geological surveys, you will hardly know what your groundwater level is, especially since it is subject to seasonal fluctuations. You should act like this: as soon as you feel an increase in soil moisture when digging a hole under the well, if a decent depth has already turned out, stop digging - you are at the target. If the depth at the same time turned out to be very small - take a chance, dig until a puddle of water appears. Assess the depth. If the pit less than a meter it turned out - you are out of luck, dig in and don’t think about the filter well anymore, you need another solution. If it’s a meter and a half or two or more, everything is fine - build a well.

Naturally, excavation should not be carried out during the “wet” season, when it is difficult to assess the level of standing groundwater. The area of the well in the plan should be no more than 4 m2, the total depth - no more than 2.5 m. avoid their mutual influence. And don't forget (I've said this before) that before you decide to install soil filtration facilities, you need to make sure that this will not affect the quality of groundwater used for water supply needs. Otherwise, you cannot avoid a conflict with sanitary doctors or neighbors (I do not undertake to assess what is more terrible for you). Underground filtration fields Continue reading “Guidelines...:

Underground filtration fields consist of a network of irrigation pipes laid to a depth of 0.5-1.2 m from the ground surface to the top of the pipes (depending on the depth of soil freezing), and the distance from the pipe tray to the groundwater level must be at least 1 m ... This should be understood to mean that the pipes must lie below the freezing depth of the soil. In Moscow, this depth is 1.4 meters. Naturally, this is an average value and it depends on many different factors. Including what kind of winter it will be like in 2005-2006 or warmer.

If you break this rule, cold winter everything will freeze and until spring you will have to use exclusively a chamber pot. Therefore, calculate: from above, the depth limit is not less than the freezing depth, and from below, no closer than 1 meter to the groundwater level. If you fit within these boundaries, build a field for health. If not, think about other structures. You may ask: “Why do we need these fields at all?” They are needed as an alternative to the filter well or as an addition to it. This, if I may say so, is a “lying well”. ... Sanitary protection zone from the fields of underground filtration to a residential building should be taken equal to 15 m ... Absolutely right. I do not recommend breaking. As with the installation of a filter well, contamination of drinking groundwater entails liability. Up to criminal. According to law. “In life”, you may not be caught on this, but behave barbarically in relation to sources drinking water not worthy of a civilized person. And to drink such water from your own well is simply stupid.

Irrigation pipes are laid in the form of branches up to 20 m long from the distribution pipeline. The distribution pipeline with a diameter of 100 mm is laid with a slope of 0.005. Irrigation and distribution pipelines are mounted from asbestos-cement non-pressure or plastic pipes... Again, you can make anything with any available pipe. Consider only their service life in the ground. If it suits you, everything is fine. Also remember that plastic pipes much easier and more convenient to install than asbestos-cement and steel.

B - distribution well; B - schemes of underground filtration with parallel drains; G (top and bottom) - diagram collector system underground filtration fields.

4 - ventilation riser; 5 - weather vane (cap); 6 - bulk soil; 7 - distribution tray; 8 - cast iron hatch; 9 - waterproofing from roll material; 10 - supply pipe; 11 - brickwork in a run; 12 - floor slab; 13 - concrete ring; 14 - outlet pipes (drains); 15 - distribution well; 16, 17 - single-chamber and two-chamber septic tanks; 18 - drains; 19 - field boundary; 20 - collector; 26 - plugs; 29 - sewer fittings.

In the places of branches of irrigation pipes on the distribution pipeline, manholes are arranged. On branches to irrigation pipes in concrete tray wells, grooves 30 mm wide for control dampers should be provided ... As you understand, both are expensive. You can do without it by excluding distribution pipes and wells in general, and place irrigation pipes in a fan, i.e., diverging along the radius from the filter well, which, in this case, will also become distribution.

Single stage sand and gravel filter. 5 - weather vane (cap); 6 - bulk soil; 9 - waterproofing from roll material; 21 - irrigation network; 22 - coarse and medium-grained sand (1...2 mm); 23 - water collection (drainage) network; 24 - gravel, crushed stone, coke with a particle size of 5 ... 30 mm;

Irrigation pipes with a diameter of 100 mm should have holes with a diameter of 5 mm directed downwards at an angle of 600 to the vertical and staggered every 50 mm. Under the pipes, it is planned to backfill with a layer of about 200 mm and a width of 250 mm from crushed stone, gravel or sintered slag, while the pipe is immersed in the backfill by half the diameter ... You can use ready-made drainage pipes, covering them from above with unnecessary plastic or roofing material. Measure out millimeters, when drilling holes there is no need, do it “by eye” - you will save time. And do not drill asbestos with drills for metal - they quickly become dull, and without sharpening the drill is enough for 1-2 holes.

The load in sandy soils per 1 m of irrigation pipes is 30 l / day, in sandy soils - 15 l / day ... And in loams it is even less, therefore, either increase the gravel layer or, plus, sprinkle with sand. Or lengthen the pipes. ... For air inflow at the ends of irrigation pipes, risers with a diameter of 100 mm should be provided, the height of which is 2000 mm higher than the planning marks ... This indication, of course, is correct, but such risers look painfully unaesthetic. Hide them or disguise them. Can you twist it climbing plants, you can generally make an element of garden architecture out of the riser by adding something highly artistic - go for it, and you will have a garden decoration, and not a ridiculous two-meter pipe sticking out of the ground.

E - surface placement of the filter at high level groundwater; G - drain device with polymer or asbestos-cement pipe; Z - the same from brick; And - filtering trench in section. 4 - ventilation riser; 6 - bulk soil; 9 - waterproofing from roll material; 21 - irrigation network; 22 - coarse and medium-grained sand (1...2 mm); 23 - water collection (drainage) network; 24 - gravel, crushed stone, coke with a particle size of 5 ... 30 mm; 25 - slag; 26 - plugs; 27 - humidification zone; 28 - brick tray.

Details about filter cassettes and drainage into the reservoir are in the next chapter, and now a few words about the notorious nitrates and nitrites, the dangers of which have not been mentioned recently only by the lazy. Here's what the World Health Organization has to say about it: RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF THE QUALITY OF DRINKING WATER, GENEVA 1994, Nitrates and nitrites are natural ions that are part of the nitrogen cycle. When the concentration of nitrates in drinking water is less than 10 mg/l, the main source of nitrates in the human body are vegetables. If nitrate levels in drinking water exceed 50 mg/l, drinking water will be the main source of total nitrate intake. Extensive epidemiological data support the accepted recommended value for nitrate nitrogen of 10 mg/l. However, this value should not be expressed in terms of nitrate nitrogen, but in terms of nitrate itself, which is a chemical hazardous to health, and therefore the recommended value for nitrate is 50 mg/l.

The recommended value for nitrites is 3 mg/l. If you translate these numbers into human language, then you can safely “feed” your vegetables with nitrates through soil filtration of wastewater, and do not worry about anything. They will pick up exactly as much nitrates as they need. In any case, fertilizing your favorite tomatoes with fresh mullein, you will saturate them much more with nitrates. I'm not talking about parsley - the champion among horticultural crops by the content of nitrates, but this “record” is the norm for her. However, I was not going to write an article about gardening, so on this short excursion into “ green World"Allow me to stop.

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But such devices can be expensive. If there is no desire to pay big money, then you will have to work with your own hands. As treatment plant you can equip a filter well. This design will remove pollutants from the drains and drain the purified water into the ground. And we will describe the device of the filtering well and the technology of its creation in this article.

What is a filter well?

The design itself will be a container without a bottom. Filter elements are placed in it. Effluent, entering the tank, passes through the filter and is cleaned from the solid fractions of the pollutant. In addition, they are cleaned by microorganisms that live in the sludge formed on the filter particles. The effluent then seeps into the ground.

A similar design is often used as an additional cleaning device for septic tanks. Such additional processing significantly improves the degree of purification. Depending on the type of septic tank, it can reach up to 95-98%.

The filter well can not be installed in all areas. Here it is necessary to take into account some factors:

The soil should be sand or sandy loam. If this is not the case, then the water will simply fill the container and will not be able to penetrate the soil.
The depth of groundwater should exceed 2.5 meters. Otherwise, effluents will penetrate into aquifer without being sufficiently cleaned.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding with the construction of a filter well in a private house, it is necessary to choose the right place. First of all, it is worth observing sanitary requirements. According to them:

the well should not be closer than 10 meters from the residential building;
it is impossible to erect such structures in the immediate vicinity of sources of drinking water (wells or wells). The distance between them must be at least 30 meters. But this parameter will be optimal if your house is on clay. If the soil has good moisture permeability, then the distance between the water source and the filter well must be increased to at least 50 meters;
also do not build a well near neighboring plot, step back 3–5 meters.

In addition, the allotted area should be enough for the construction of a filter well. Its dimensions may be different, depending on the drains. But overall dimensions should not exceed two by two meters.

Note! It is necessary to determine the depth of the structure. As a rule, it lies in the range from 2.5 to 3 meters. But there is one thing to consider sanitary requirement- between the bottom of the well and the level of the aquifer must be at least 1 m.

After that, we determine the filter element. As such, you can use:

crushed stone;
gravel;
pieces of peat;
broken brick;
slag.

Note! It is very important that fractions are small, with maximum dimensions in 30 mm. Experts recommend using several types of filter media at the same time. Small gravel is poured at the bottom, and broken brick is laid on top of it.

As a result, silt will form on the particles of the upper layer, in which bacteria will settle. Passing through such a filter, organic residues in the wastewater will decompose as a result of the vital activity of microorganisms. Then they will pass through more dense layer crushed stone, and then into the ground.

The very shape of the filter well can be different. Depending on the material used, the design can be made round, square or rectangular. For the construction of walls, you can use ready-made plastic structures, burnt red brick, monolithic concrete, reinforced concrete rings and even old car tires.

We build a filter well

First of all, a pit is dug. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (by 20–30 cm) than the structure being created. Then we start building walls. If you use bricks, then they should not be placed close to each other. It is necessary to make holes 5 cm wide in a checkerboard pattern. This is necessary for the removal of treated effluents into the ground. Such perforation is made to the height of the filter layer or about 1 m.

If the filter well is constructed from concrete rings, then you should not buy new ones. Perfect for used products with various holes. In this case, there is no need to do the perforation yourself. You can buy special concrete rings with holes already made.

When laying concrete rings, you can use one trick. Even before digging the pit, lay the product on the ground in the place where the well will be located. Then, begin to evenly remove the soil inside the ring. The product under its own weight will begin to go into the ground. As soon as the first ring is completely buried in the ground, you can lay the second one on top and continue digging.

When erecting the walls of the well, do not forget to enter the sewer drain or septic tank outlet. Here it is necessary to take into account one nuance. The outlet of the pipe must rise above the level of the filter material by at least 15 cm. In addition, it is advisable to install wooden substrate to the place where the water jet will hit the bottom. Such a device will allow you to evenly distribute wastewater over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe filter, thereby increasing the degree of purification.

Once the construction of the walls is completed, you can start backfilling the filter material. Many experts recommend the following model. In the center of the well, material with larger fractions is poured, and fine - on the sides. In addition to backfilling the filter elements inside, they also need to backfill the space between the outer walls of the well and the pit. Thus, you will improve the outflow of water.

The upper part is closed with a wooden shield or reinforced concrete slab. In the ceiling, you need to leave room for a manhole (inspection hatch) and a ventilation pipe. The first is necessary to inspect and clean the filter layer. The hatch itself makes a minimum of 700 mm in size, so that a person can freely get inside through it. It is better to make it double and shift it with a heater. Ventilation is a must. A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm and a length of 1 m is suitable for this. It can be installed on the side.

After that, the entire structure is covered with roofing material and covered with soil. It is better to make the layer thickness half a meter - this is how you qualitatively insulate your filter well. From above, everything can be masked, for example, by placing a flower bed.

Video

In this video you will see the process of making a filter well from a concrete pipe:

An autonomous sewage disposal system is an indispensable part of the backyard infrastructure of any private house. The ways of its construction can be completely different: from connecting to utility networks common use, before creating their own innovative wastewater treatment system. An intermediate position between these two extreme options is occupied by a filter well.

What ?

Unfortunately, most residents of private houses in our country are unaware of the existence modern systems offline cleaning sewer drains. From generation to generation, the experience of building an ordinary cesspool, which is a container buried in the ground, passes.

And it's good that the container, because it may well be an ordinary pit without sealing the walls. But with the slightest mistake in choosing the location of the cesspool, with unplanned ground movements or a sharp rise in the level of groundwater, sewage from the classic cesspool immediately ends up in unplanned places.

Well, if this place is just the surface of the infield. It is much worse if sewage flows are within the reach of the water intake system. This can lead to big environmental problems.

But the ordinary cesspool it is quite possible to modernize it so that it will play the role of a treatment facility, albeit not very effective, but still. We are talking about filter wells, which advantageously combine the low cost of construction (a little more than that of classic cesspools) and enough effective system wastewater treatment (slightly less than entry-level septic tanks).

How does a filter well work?

Let's make a reservation right away that a filter well can guarantee you the purification of no more than one cubic meter of sewage per day. However, such equipment is quite easily scalable - just build several more filter wells at some distance from each other and the volume of wastewater they treat will increase significantly.

In addition, the filter well can be used in combination with other water treatment facilities. For example, it can be placed as additional equipment when installing septic tanks, and partially cleaned sewage from septic tanks will undergo additional cleaning in the filter well. After passing the septic tank and filter well sewer drain will be already so clean that it can be freely dumped directly into the ground.

By the way! The name "well", indicated in the description of this hydraulic structure, is rather conditional. Drainage-absorbing trenches, a filtration field located underground and other similar structures can have the same cleaning effect.

Conditions for the construction of a filter well

Unfortunately, a filtering well cannot be built on any site. The most critical factor in the placement of filter wells is the level of groundwater and the presence of an aquifer near the cleaning structure. In any case, the level of the aquifer should be no higher than the bottom of the filter well, no closer than a meter from it.

Besides, certain influence the choice of a place to build a filter well is the composition of the soil in your area. The most optimal would be to place a filter well on sandy soils and sandy loam, peat also has excellent filtering functions. But if your site has a deep layer clay soil, placing a filter well on it does not make sense.

Before designing a filter well, pay attention to the area of its bottom, which also differs depending on the composition of the soil on the site. So filtering sand cushion may be at least three square meters, and on sandy loam such a pillow can be one and a half square meters.

When creating a filter well in sandy soils, to prevent shedding of the walls, they can be lined with brick or stone.

Another factor influencing the construction of a filter well is the depth of soil freezing in your area. For effective work well in winter, it is necessary that its bottom, even in the most harsh winters guaranteed to be located below the freezing line of the soil. For Russian regions located in middle lane, this value is about one and a half meters.

The basic device of the filter well

Most the best option the device of the filter well will be its location after one sludge chamber. Such a scheme is perhaps the most reasonable in terms of the price-quality ratio.

With this type of device autonomous sewerage drains through a single pipe are first sent to a concrete well with a bottom, which is a sump. In the sump, the effluents are at rest and as a result, light fractions of contaminants and gases dissolved in water float up, and heavy fractions of contaminants settle to the bottom of the tank. Approximately in the middle of the height of the settling well, a bypass pipe is installed, which takes the settled drains already into the filtering well. Through the filtering well, the treated effluents are sent to the ground.

For such a system, a filter well with walls consisting of reinforced concrete rings is mounted. The total depth of such a structure can be up to three meters, but the maximum depth must be at least a meter higher than the maximum groundwater level on your site.

As already mentioned, several filter wells can be built on the site. When designing their location, it is necessary to choose a place so that between the heads of the well shafts there are at least two diameters of the wells.

Choosing filter materials for the well

The most popular materials for creating a filter pad in a drainage well are peat bog segments, medium-sized crushed stone, brick fragments, coke, slag fractions, etc. similar materials. It should be noted that the largest fraction in the filter pad should not exceed 3 centimeters.

With the constant operation of the filter pad, activated sludge is formed on it. It consists of colonies of microorganisms, which, in the course of their life, process organic residues into elementary chemical substances. Thus, additional purification of sewage effluents entering the well is provided.

The general principle of operation of the filter well is as follows:

at the bottom of the well, first, a filter pad made of crushed stone of small fractions is laid, then brick fragments and slag are placed on top of it;
material similar in composition is used for backfilling between the walls of the pit and the walls of the well;
in addition, the soil layer located under the bottom of the filter well also cleans the incoming sewage.

How to choose the shape and material of the walls of the filter well

In principle, the shape of the filter well can be any, but it is desirable that it be round - this will ensure a more uniform distribution of pollutants throughout the volume of filtered effluents.

As for the material for making the walls, the following building materials are the most optimal: red brick, monolithic concrete or reinforced concrete structure, clay brick. One of the most popular materials are ready-made.

How to build your own filter well

Consider the order of construction of one of the most popular modifications of the filter well. Such a structure is formed from ready-made reinforced concrete rings.

Step 1

We choose a place for the construction of a filter well. Since it will have direct contact with the ground, we place it away from water sources. Please note that over time, the thickness of the filter pad may form a large number of sediment that will have to be pumped out by a sewer truck, so provide a place for transport access.

Step 2

We dig a pit to the diameter of the finished reinforced concrete rings. It can be done mechanically using an excavator, or manually. In order to dig a shaft under concrete rings manually, it is necessary to proceed as follows:

install the first ring in place of the future well;
start digging inside the ring, throwing the earth out;
under the influence of its own weight, the ring will sink into the ground;
after the first ring has sunk into the ground, a perforated gasket is installed. It can be, for example, bricks. The holes will ensure that relatively treated effluents from the liquid column go into the ground;
the second ring is installed and the digging of the pit continues.

Step 3

We place in the filter well a sewer outlet pipe or a bypass pipe coming out of the septic tank. In any case, such a pipe should be approximately 10 centimeters higher than the top surface of the filter pad.

Step 4

We place a filter pad at the bottom of the well. We produce with the same composition backfill between the walls of the pit and the walls of the well.

By the way! Practice shows that the best option would be to place a filter element with a larger fraction in the center of the well, and smaller ones closer to the walls. The outlet of the sewer or bypass pipes should be located in the center of the well so that the incoming drains fall onto the gravel with a large fraction.

Step 5

Over the filtering well the overlap is placed. It can be made using ready-made reinforced concrete slab or using durable wooden planks. If you want to use the filter well around the clock, then it would be wise to equip it with two covers, between which to place a layer of thermal insulation. Mineral wool or foamed polymer sheets can be used as a heat-insulating layer.

To ensure maintenance of the equipment, an inspection hatch with a cross section of at least 70 centimeters is placed in the ceiling.

The remaining space is covered with soil also to provide thermal insulation.

In the overlap of the filter well, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a ventilation pipe, the upper end of which should be located about a couple of meters above ground level. Thus from the well will be removed unpleasant odors. In order to make the filter well head more attractive appearance it can be disguised as a garden bed or an alpine hill.

As you can see, even with minimal technological skills and a small set of building materials you can install a filter well on your own personal plot. Complete with a settling well, it may well play the role of a full-fledged autonomous sewer system.

If you watch the video tutorial attached to the article, you can learn more about the procedure for building filter wells.

Video - Filter well

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There are many ways to dispose of wastewater, so they usually choose the one that is financially feasible. An effective and at the same time the most popular option is to use a filter well. The design is traditionally used in areas with a small amount of wastewater, for example, in a country house or in a country house.

Why is it needed

Its main task is to ensure the process of waste disposal by passing them through porous soil. The structure makes it possible to excess moisture outside the water-saturated area.

Tip: install the filter well only in an area with porous soil.

These include sandy and sandy soils.

from a residential building - 10 m;
from a drinking source - 30 m.

Device

The design of the filter well is a system that allows sewer pipe discharge wastewater from the house by gravity to a septic tank or other settling chamber. From where they then also fall into the filter well, after which they seep into the ground.

It consists of a shaft up to 3 m deep, which is lined with brick or reinforced concrete rings, sometimes other materials are used.

Filtration wells occupy an area depending on the type of soil. According to calculations, 1 m 2 of sandy loamy soil can filter out about 50 liters of wastewater per day. At the same time, sandy is able to cope with 100 liters.

If you know the approximate volume sewage water per day, you can choose the area of the future structure. The traditional size is 2 m x 2 m and a depth of no more than 2.5 m.

Tip: when making your own hands, try not to exceed these parameters.

If you need to increase the total area, it is better to make several filter structures. In this case, the distance between them should not be less than the sum of 2 diameters of the structures.

Do not discount another point - the level of groundwater. From the bottom of the device to the water horizon must be at least 1 m.

Filter manufacturing features

Get crushed stone, brick fragments, pieces of peat, coke, slag. Make sure that the dimensions of the filter material do not exceed 30 mm.

When sewage enters the filter, sludge begins to form on it, which serves as a breeding ground for the reproduction of microorganisms. In the course of their life, they process organic matter into minerals, clearing drains.

Water filtered in this way penetrates through the sandy soil into the lower horizons.

You can create a filter in the following way:

determine the area of the filtering well from the calculation indicated above in the text;
prepare material for required quantity;
bookmark fine-grained gravel, put the next layer brick fight and slag;
fill the gaps between the shaft and the wall of the well with the same materials;
final purification of water will occur after they pass through the sandy soil layer.

The shape of the structure can be round or square, and also eats a conical filtration well.

Typically, the following materials are used for manufacturing:

monolithic concrete;
Red brick;
reinforced concrete;
prefabricated rings made of reinforced concrete.

When making a structure, do not touch its bottom, only line the walls around the perimeter. Through it, effluent will seep lower into the ground and be further cleaned.

How to make a filter well

Below is an instruction that can become a basis for you.

Make adjustments to it, but do not change the essence.

One of the most reliable structures that have proven their durability is a filter structure made of reinforced concrete rings, although their price is not the cheapest. They must be lowered onto the filter material, which must be evenly distributed in height. Put a stone on the bottom that will not allow the filter to be washed away by the falling stream of sewage.
You also need to make holes along their entire height in staggered order with a step of 200 mm. Leave a distance of 50 mm between them. In wells where the walls are lined with red brick, they are made using gaps in the masonry.

Install the pipe, through which sewage is supplied to the well, at a height of 100 mm above the bottom filter with a slight slope. Its end should be directed to the center of the shaft, under it, install a container for drains with holes.
Make a filter at the bottom of the structure. The material for it will be pebbles, crushed stone, sand and peat. At the same time, pour large particles in the center, small ones along the edges.
Make a cover for the well from above wooden shield or reinforced concrete covers. It should have a hole with a diameter of 700 mm or more. Close it with hatches, between the covers of which put insulation - mineral wool, burlap, etc. From above, close the structure with roofing material and fill it with soil about half a meter thick.
Fill the outer part of the well with sandy loam or sand up to the level of the inlet pipe. Its width cannot be less than 0.5 m.
Provide in the central part of the well, by analogy with the design of any type of septic tank, an air cavity with a cover and ventilation pipe. Its diameter should be from 100 mm, and its height - from 1 m.

Many people who live in private homes and do not have access to centralized sewerage are faced with the problem of wastewater disposal. She may appear in countryside, on the suburban area and in the city. Today there are several ways to solve this problem. The choice of a particular one depends on such factors:

domestic water volume;
soil type;
ground water level;
estimated budget of works and others.

But there is universal way disposal and wastewater treatment in a separate private area - this is a filtering well for sewage. It consists of special filters, through which water is purified and enters the ground. You can build a well on your own without big financial expenses.

A filter well is understood as a special underground building that performs the function of biological purification of domestic water. It is simply impossible to do without such a design if there is no possibility of utilizing water in another way on earth. Waste water is classified as domestic water, and after the rain, melting snow. If the plot has no slope, then surface water linger on it and bring great inconvenience.

The filter well does its job best on such soils:

sandy;
peat;
sandy loam.

Wells can be used as a full-fledged structure for water drainage, as well as an auxiliary one. As the main structure, a filter well is used when the daily volume of such a liquid is not more than 1 m 3. The well acts as an additional structure if auxiliary purification of water is needed, which then enters the ground.

The principle of operation of the well is simple. Through a special tube, water from the house enters the settling chamber. It is especially necessary if the house has a toilet. Then all the fractions will not settle at the bottom. A little above the bottom of the chamber there is an opening through which domestic water flows into the well, where it falls to the bottom of the filtration. It consists of pebbles, and after passing them, the water is significantly purified, and then gradually seeps into the soil.

Location and dimensions of the well

Before you start building a filter well with your own hands, you need to take into account such important features:

The mine should be located away from the house and outbuildings. The distance from it to the nearest foundation should be at least 10 meters.
If there is a well on the site with drinking water, then you need to maintain a distance of 25 meters or more from it.
The level of groundwater matters. Between them and the bottom of the shaft must remain 1 meter or more.

The filter well device has an area depending on the amount of wastewater and the type of soil. For example, sandy soil with an area of 1m 2 can filter about 100 liters of water per day, and sandy loam - half as much. These data should be the basis for determining the size of the future structure. Of course, there are some restrictions on its size in a limited area. The depth of the filter well should not exceed 2.5 meters. total area 2 m 2. But if the calculation results in an area larger given value, then you need to make several wells. This happens quite often when land plot or the house is very big. They must be placed at a distance of at least two of their own diameters.

Building not recommended drainage wells on rocks, since in such soil water is not filtered and can fall into clean ground water. The filter well will also be ineffective for clay soil.

Filter well device

The well for filtration consists of:

bottom filter;
walls;
surface overlay.

Consider in stages the main components and rules for the arrangement of each element.

Bottom filter. Filter wells design must consist of a high-quality bottom filter that purifies water before it enters the ground. In the intended place where the water will fall from the pipe to the filter, you need to install a small wooden shield that prevents the bottom from washing out and evenly distributes water over the entire surface. After backfilling, there will be a distance of 20-30 centimeters between the filter and the pipe. As a backfill for the bottom filter, use:

crushed stone;
gravel;
expanded clay;
battle of bricks and stones.

The maximum size fraction should not exceed 70 mm in diameter. Backfilling should be done with a height of about 1 meter. Even if a settling chamber is used, a small amount of organic sediment will still form on the surface of the filter. Over time, it is gradually destroyed by microorganisms. It is not allowed to clean the filter well with bleach or other chemicals. To do this, once every couple of years (depending on the workload of the mine), you need to clean it with a special sewage machine or pump.

Walls. For the arrangement of the walls use the most different materials e.g. bricks, reinforced concrete rings etc. Often there is even a plastic filter well made from an old large barrel. But the plastic must be strong enough so that the earth does not crush it over time. Between the ground and the walls, you can make a small fence, which is then filled heat-insulating material. Very popular is a metal filter well from a pipe. In this case, you also need to pay attention to the thickness and quality of the metal. In this case, you will need to drill holes, which complicates the work a little.

The easiest option is to make a filter well from ready-made concrete rings, which are very strong and durable. In the walls you need to make small holes, about 4-6 cm in diameter. They should be done in a checkerboard pattern 10 cm apart. If the walls are made of brick or stone, then they are simply placed at a short distance from each other. In specially provided concrete rings already have holes. Externally, the filter well is filled with the same material, no more than 40 cm thick, and at the height of the filter.

Overlap. Absorption filter well in without fail must have not only a reliable overlap, but also ventilation. The latter is made in the form of a small pipe (diameter up to 10 cm) in the ceiling. It should be closed with a grate externally and be 70-100 cm above the ground. This height is especially necessary in winter, when snow can close the ventilation. Of course, such a pipe can negatively appear on the landscape, but it can be hidden by plants or painted in an interesting color.

The filter well device should have a hatch with a diameter of approximately 70 cm in the ceiling. There are two covers in it:

carrier, located on top;
weighting, located below.

If in winter the temperature drops to -20 degrees and below, it is necessary to protect the container from freezing. Otherwise, the backfill mixture with water will freeze and will not perform its function, and the mine will simply be flooded with domestic water. To ensure thermal insulation, the space between the covers is filled with any materials, such as foam, mineral wool, burlap and others. Additional protective materials can also be placed on top of the ceiling. It is also necessary to provide good thermal insulation for pipes from the house to the mine, because they lie at a shallower depth, so they can freeze in winter.

Good to know

Once the wastewater has been filtered, it can be reused to irrigate plants. For this, a special filtration field is created, which provides for the creation of a whole system of canals and drains located underground.

Thus, the filter well is quite simple, but efficient construction. It allows you to efficiently and without additional effort to clean domestic wastewater. The device of this structure is quite simple, and if you have elementary building skills, you can do it yourself. The well will purify the water without polluting environment, and if you make a special system, then purified water can be reused for household needs. To increase the efficiency of filtration, you can make a filter trench, a gravel filter, which cope with cleaning no less qualitatively.

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