Do-it-yourself installation of drainage trays. Drainage trays: how to install them correctly. The disadvantages of plastic trays are

Drainage trays are used in places that are known for heavy rainfall. all year round, as well as in areas with clay soil. Since the water flows after heavy rains and melting snows wash away the layer suitable for growing different cultures, it has to be refilled from time to time and chernozem purchased for this purpose. These trays help eliminate this problem by providing a system that wastewater will be removed along the trays, and not spread over the site. In this article we will tell you how to make concrete drainage trays with your own hands.

Such systems, arranged on the site, can be performed using different schemes. However, it is important to steadily follow a number of important rules:

the slope of the trays during the installation of rain sewers should be approximately 10 mm per linear meter;
how fewer corners in drainage and turns - the better;
moisture should not drain into the garden: on the contrary, it must be removed from it.

In cases where rather complex drainage has to be done within the boundaries of the garden, where perennial trees or extensive shrubs grow, then the very the best way in this situation, a branched system. How does she look? Water flows out of the site in two places, therefore, there will be not one exit, but two.

It can also often be that the surface of everything personal plot quite uneven, so it is extremely difficult to make a normal slope there. In this case drainage system they do it differently - all the slopes that will occur when laying concrete drainage systems must correspond to the height that is available there at each elevation of the site.

For sites with more or less flat surface applied standard scheme drainage, known as linear. Several channels are dug, located parallel to each other, after which they are connected at a point with the smallest slope.

To understand how to do concrete trays drainage, it is necessary to understand the principle of their action. In autumn and winter, a considerable amount of precipitation falls on the site near the house or cottage. Subsequently, they spread over the adjacent territory, flooding the lowlands, creating dampness in basements and spoiling the wall decoration. If there are properly made concrete trays around a private house, then the water will go through them and then be diverted away without creating problems on the site.

What are the advantages of concrete trays that are made by you personally? First, it is economy. Although it is not very easy to make them, it will be cheaper than buying such factory-made trays in a store. Secondly, this individual sizes, because some trays from the store will have to be cut if there is a turn in the gutter trench, and at home you can fill in the trays of the desired length and shape.

By the way, about the form. The semicircular shape is considered optimal, through which water passes with little or no resistance. However, since this form is not easy to make, trays are most often made according to the following scheme. From boards or sheets of laminated plywood with a thickness of 10–15 mm, a structure is made U-shaped. To give strength, the panels in the formwork are fastened with rolled metal corners.

When the main part of the formwork is done, the molding part is prepared, which is made from a pipe sawn in half lengthwise. It is important that the surface of the pipe used is smooth, because thanks to it a semicircular part of the tray will be formed, along which wastewater will flow. It is best to make at least 10 such formworks, otherwise the process of filling the trays for the entire drainage system may be delayed indefinitely.

For the molding part, the sewer is ideal plastic pipe suitable diameter, since its surface is smooth. There are practically no pores on such a pipe, which makes it possible to pour concrete much better.

Now the formwork is completely ready and it is possible to deal directly with the pouring of concrete trays, from which the drainage system will subsequently be installed. For concrete, you will need the following materials:

Portland cement M400 (characterized by great strength and resistance to frost).
Sand without clay impurities.
Rubble.
Reinforcement Ø 6 mm.

The ratio of cement, sand and gravel can be used either as 1:2:4 or 1:3:5. The latter ratio makes it possible to obtain more concrete with the same amount of cement, but its strength will be somewhat lower than in the first case. The resulting solution should be sufficiently viscous, but not flowing or too thick.

Why is reinforcement necessary? It significantly improves strength future design, and also will not allow the tray to break during its removal from the formwork. Thanks to reinforcement or meshes, quite long trays can be made from it.

Trays are made in four approaches:

First, a mold is prepared in which the tray (or several at once) will be poured, as well as the molding part.
Reinforcement is made and laid in a mold (several longitudinal rods or mesh).
Knead and pour the solution into the formwork.
After the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed and the finished drainage trays are removed.

When choosing screws or nails, it is important to choose the right length. It must be large enough to securely fasten the structure. If in some place screws or nails go inside the formwork, then their length should be somewhat shorter - subsequently they will not allow the tray to be pulled out of the formwork and can even damage it by chipping off a piece of concrete.

So that the water in concrete mix, did not flow through the bottom and walls of the formwork, they should be closed plastic wrap, preferably at least 200 microns thick.

To prepare concrete for pouring and the trays themselves, you will need certain tools. These can be devices that work from electrical network voltage 220 V, as well as hand tools:

two shovels - shovel and bayonet;
trowel or trowel;
a wheelbarrow or bucket with which concrete can be transferred and poured into the formwork.

From power tools you need the following:

a concrete mixer (if it is not there, you can ask friends for a while or rent it);
a hammer drill or impact drill, as well as a nozzle for a mixer (if there is no concrete mixer, and the solution will be kneaded by hand).

Shovels are needed to throw mortar into the concrete mixer, and then collect concrete from the wheelbarrow and pour it into the formwork. A trowel is usually leveled upper layer poured tray.

When composing a grid of reinforcement bars, it is necessary to place them at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other both vertically and horizontally. The mesh can be tied together with a knitting wire or welded by electric welding. To prevent the reinforcement inside the tray from rusting and rotting, the edges of the rods should not reach the walls of the formwork and the molding part by 5 cm.

When the reinforcement is laid, the formwork can be poured. How to make concrete correctly was described above. It is advisable to use a construction vibrator during pouring - an apparatus necessary for compacting concrete and removing air bubbles and excess water. If it is not there, you can take a piece of reinforcement or something similar and compact the concrete with this up and down movement.

When the concrete is poured, it is necessary to immediately use the molding part from the pipe, thanks to which the top of the mold will turn out in the form of a semicircle. For best effect you can sprinkle the top of the poured form with dry cement, which was used in the manufacture of concrete, in order to “ironize” the surface, that is, to give it greater strength. And the pipe can not only be pressed into a fresh mixture, but scrolled several times in different sides without pressing too hard - so the semicircular surface will have a greater smoothness.

It takes 28 days for the concrete to fully cure. However, after a day, the formwork can be disassembled - the concrete has reached the degree of preliminary solidification, that is, it has not gained full strength, but it will not fall apart in the hands. The resulting tray must be rectangular shape, and its inner cavity is semicircular, smooth, without pits, cracks and other defects.

Before laying the trays, you need to dig rectangular trenches for them in accordance with one of the selected installation schemes. The bottom of the dug trench is not filled up large quantity sand (so-called sand cushion) to make it easier to adjust the slope of the tray.

The slope of the trays itself is measured in two ways - with a level or a level with a bar (rail) tied to one of its edges. The second method is more imperfect, but it will help those who do not have a level. When the slope is adjusted along the entire length of the trenches, the trays can be laid. At the end, you can check their performance by pouring only water there first, and then water mixed with sand (imitation of runoff after heavy rains). If nothing remains in the trays, then everything is done correctly.

If the trays run near walkways or through concrete, they can be covered with gratings that will prevent debris from accumulating there, as well as secure the movement of people.

This video shows how you can make concrete trays at home:

The need to get rid of excess precipitation and its consequences has been known to people since ancient times. Drainage designs have changed and improved, starting this way from dug sewage pits to combined complex drainages from modern materials.

The installation of guttering is a common procedure these days to ensure that rainfall and meltwater are carried away from the surface.

Thanks to drainage systems, the foundation of the building is protected from destruction, water and dirt do not accumulate on the site adjacent to the house, the slopes are protected from collapses, the aesthetic appearance and cleanliness are preserved.

Drainage trays occupy a central place in the entire drainage system, they can be made of polymer, concrete and plastic. Each type of drainage tray has its advantages and disadvantages in use and installation, each installation has its own characteristic features.

installed step by step in the following order:

a trench is being prepared in accordance with the diagram in the place where the tray will be installed;
a concrete step is made by laying concrete in uniform layers along the bottom of the trench;
plastic trays are located in the trench in the center;
slopes are concreted to give the system stability.

They are connected to each other by a butt method. To do this, there is a tongue on one side of the tray, and a groove on the other. To significantly increase guarantee period plastic trays, the joints are sealed.

They can be open or equipped with rain grates. Drainage trays with gratings prevent large debris from entering the drainage system and create optimal conditions for passing traffic.

To fix the grate to the plastic tray, you must:

install the main mounting system in the tray by unscrewing the bolt from it;
attach the bolt to the puzzle located on the grate;
until it stops, firmly fasten the bolt, checking the reliability of installation;
the stamped grate is attached very easily: the locks located at the edges of the grate are bent, the grate is fixed in the tray.

To make a side connection, you need to make a small hole in the side wall of the tray, connect the trays at right angles, seal and plug.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic trays

The advantages of such trays are much greater than their disadvantages. The main advantages are:

throughput. Smooth walls are not covered with growths, for which debris can cling and accumulate over time;
durability, which is caused by resistance to stress, chemicals, temperature differences;
light weight, which facilitates the transportation and installation of such a system;
several holes, which makes it possible to vary when docking with a sewer pipe;
installation is so primitive that one person can handle it without special education and specific or expensive equipment;
extensive area of application - from intensive areas with a large number of pedestrians to small courtyard areas.

The disadvantages of plastic trays are:

unreliability at temperatures below zero. Plastic may burst when severe frost or because of the weight of passing traffic;
possible deformations over time due to different coefficients of expansion of plastic and concrete. In addition, the plastic tray may fall out of the concrete trench over time;
due to the lightness of plastic, it must be pressed when connected to concrete, which requires additional effort.

Materials and tools

Materials for installing the plastic system:

plastic trays of various brands and applications.

Components that provide extensive rainwater runoff:

grating stamped;
cast iron grate;
storm water inlet;
storm water inlet;
sand trap;
fasteners and plugs;
plastic adapter for creating a line of trays with different heights.

Instruments:

concrete;
sealant;
saw with diamond disc;
a hammer;
hacksaw;
shovel;
plastic trays in the required quantity.

To properly install a plastic drain, the following materials are needed (quantity depending on the length of the drain):

gutter;
45 degree turns on pipes;
plugs;
funnels;
brackets;
connecting elements.

Tools for installation: puncher, grinder, screwdriver, marker, building level, knife.

Installation scheme

Photo: plastic tray installation diagram

Photo: docking diagram of plastic trays with a sand trap and sewer pipes

Step by step installation

Step by step installation of plastic trays for drainage can be done as follows:

distribution and installation of brackets evenly 500-600mm apart with a given slight slope, which will allow in the future not to overflow the water over the edges of the gutter, but to go into the pipe;
installation of water intake funnels. To do this, glue is applied to the end of the funnel and fixed to the roof with brackets;
cutting a hole in the funnel with a hacksaw and attach it to the plastic with a special glue;
direct installation of a plastic gutter. It should be noted that the first fastening is best done under the pipe elbow at 45 degrees. Plastic drains must be fixed from each other at a distance of approximately 50 cm, the slope of the gutters is 2-3 mm.

Many collect the entire drain on the ground, and then fit it vertically on the brackets. This requires at least two people and two ladders.

When assembling plastic drain on your own, it is better to collect the drain at the top, which is not difficult due to the lightness of plastic trays and other constituent elements.

Leaving water in the drainage system can flood the foundation of the house, so storm sewers are necessary.

Important! For quality work storm sewer a special list is needed - these are storm sewer trays, storm water inlets, a collector-water collector, a storm water well, a sorption filter.

The following steps are required for:

install the outlet of the drainpipe to determine the location of the cast iron or. Use pegs to measure at the installation site;
for a storm water inlet, you can use a pit or cheaply and simply make it yourself, the approximate dimensions of the receiver are 400x400, 600 mm deep;
dig a channel for laying downpipes;
dig a well to filter the flowing water. The recommended size is 1000x1000mm, no more than a meter deep;
we lay the pipe, the end from the side of the pit should stick out by 60 mm, from the side of the well - by 500;
plastic or concrete. We construct wooden formwork, plug the pipe hole;
grate installation.

Photo: installation of storm sewers

Installation of concrete trays

Concrete trays are mounted in a ditch on a concrete base in asphalt, concrete or tiles. The concrete thickness depends on the load class. The base is usually made of B25 concrete. The sides are fastened in the form of slopes.

The width of the slopes also depends on the load class. The correct deepening of concrete trays is checked as follows: after installation extreme point on the grate should be 4mm below the road point.

Concrete trays are interconnected and sealed. If the drainage is connected at an angle, the concrete tray and grate are sawn.

If the concrete tray is installed in asphalt, it is recommended to cover the gratings with fiberboard. Vehicles must not be driven onto the concrete tray.

When installing concrete trays, one should not forget about expansion joints. The connection of concrete trays is carried out through a sand trap using a pipe 100-160mm or using a vertical branch pipe installed at the bottom of the tray.

Important! When installing concrete trays, it is necessary to annually clean the system from debris and dirt.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of concrete trays are obvious - reliability and simplicity, special wear resistance. It should be noted that the scope of application of concrete trays is especially effective in Russia due to its special climatic conditions.

Concrete trays withstand strong temperature overloads and retain their functionality. In addition, many concrete gutters and trays are resistant to various mechanical loads.

Modern concrete trays are made by a special vibrocompression method; metal inserts are added to improve the class of the product and increase its wear resistance.

Some products are made of fiber-reinforced concrete, concrete, combined with fiberglass, the characteristics of which include increased impact resistance.

An important factor of concrete trays is their correct installation and competent scope. So, there are concrete trays general purpose, class C, section 100, load up to twenty tons.

For movement freight transport more powerful drainage is needed, super-class concrete trays are made for it for maximum load.

The only drawback of the average concrete tray is its low impact strength, especially this characteristic has great importance during transportation.

As mentioned above, for special kind works are made especially durable concrete, trays from which are used on runways, in industry.

Thus, when installing a concrete tray, you need the help of a specialist who will help you understand the class of concrete required for a particular drainage and correctly install it.

Materials and tools

The tools needed for installation are a hammer, a shovel, a hacksaw, a hand saw with a diamond blade. Hand saw with a diamond blade will be needed for sawing iron gratings and concrete trays, in case the drainage channel is installed at an angle.

Installation materials - concrete trays, concrete, gratings, sealant, crushed stone, sand.

Installation scheme

Scheme of installing a concrete tray in asphalt

Photo: scheme for installing a concrete tray in asphalt

Scheme of installing a concrete tray in concrete

Photo: scheme for installing a concrete tray in concrete

Scheme of installing a concrete tray in a tile

Photo: scheme for installing a concrete tray in a tile

Step by step installation

Photo: installation storm tray cutaway

To mount concrete trays, you need to perform the following sequential steps:

according to the characteristics of the drainage system, its area, type of surface, as well as the amount of expected precipitation, a drainage system diagram is drawn up and models of drainage gutters and other materials are correctly selected. Consideration should also be given to the degree physical activity, water composition (if the environment is too aggressive, drainage is treated with a special chemical);
according to established scheme, trenches are prepared, where concrete trays are subsequently mounted. For mounting accuracy, it is recommended to use a marking cord. At the bottom of the trench, you need to install a concrete substrate, 10 cm in size. It should be noted that the width of the trench should be twice the size of the tray, and the depth is calculated in such a way that after installation rain grate was five centimeters below the surface;
in the center of the trench, concrete trays are mounted and poured with concrete;
grids are attached to the installed trays.

Video: installation of concrete drainage trays

Installation prices

After spending comparative characteristic prices for installing drainage trays, an approximate table of prices in the Russian Federation for interpretation, turnkey installation, for certain types of work. To find out the exact price, you need to know the specific scope of work and the company that will carry out the order.

Thus, the rich assortment offered modern market, allows you to inexpensively install drainage trays of varying complexity depending on the required drainage.

The design of the installation of trays is simple for any person, even those who are not initiated into the art of installation. The duration of the operation of the drainage trays is so huge, and the costs are so scanty, that the preference is always given to the system of drainage trays.

Storm sewers are designed to drain rain and melt water from the house itself, as well as the garage, paths and hard-surfaced areas. What type of sewage system to prefer, what functional elements to make up, how to independently plan and install such a system, we will describe in this article.

Storm sewers are needed to drain rain and melt water from the foundation of the house, outbuildings and the yard. largest area catchment area - the roof - should be equipped around the perimeter with gutters and drainpipes, from which water enters the storm sewer - a drainage system, which is a network of channels with elements of the functioning of the system.

Type of storm sewer

Depending on the type of channeling, storm water can be:

linear;
point;
mixed type.

Linear consists of surface gutters placed along the tracks and covered decorative lattice. Gutters can be made independently from concrete, as well as assembled from purchased products- steel, concrete or plastic, drawn up in a line with sealed joints. The branching of the gutters can be significant, gathering in separate sleeves from buildings and paths into a common collector.

Point sewer means a single receiver from each drainpipe, covered with a grate, after which the water enters the underground sewer pipeline. Pipes from individual point water intakes are also collected in one line.

The mixed type is used if, along with a linear network, there is a need to make separate point water intakes located away from open gutters.

Storm sewer elements

The composition of the storm sewer network is determined by whether you intend to use rainwater (for example, for irrigation), treat it or dump it into common system drainage without unnecessary manipulation.

The system may include the following elements:

Open trays (linear part).
Rain inlets (dotted part).
Door trays (can be made in the form of a point storm water inlet).
Sand traps.
Lookout well.
Collectors.
The pipeline of the closed part of the sewer.
Sewer hatches.

Purchased linear sewer trays and storm water inlets are easy to install, have a stable geometry, and are compatible with other elements. The cost and resource depends on the material, correct installation, climate. In private houses, trays are installed in class A (pedestrian zone) and B (car zone) according to the load. Choose the right length to minimize the number of joints.

Plastic tray with grid

Trays and storm water inlets are covered with gratings for aesthetic reasons, for safety and quality. coarse filter from large debris. Lattices can be cast iron, plastic or steel.

Sometimes water is diverted from the drainpipe through an open concrete gutter

Door trays have a container for collecting water, which is not discharged anywhere. If a visor is installed above the door and there is little water, then such a device is convenient. If there is no visor or slope towards storm trays, it is better to install a storm water inlet.

Sand traps are used to trap sand, earth, grass and other debris that enters the storm drain. Without these devices, the pipes will quickly overgrow, and you will have to clean them. They produce products from plastic, steel or concrete, and according to the class of loads, they must correspond to the trays.

An inspection (revision) well is required to monitor the condition and, if necessary, clean the channels. They equip it in places that are stressful from the point of view of hydrodynamics: connecting side hoses, sharp turns, on especially long straight sections (35-70 m, depending on the diameter according to SNiP) - where clogging is more likely. The device is a container or shell covered with a lid.

Revision well - installation

Drop well - when changing the depth of the pipeline

Homemade concrete well

Accumulative collectors are a purchased or home-made tank, if necessary with additional system filtration or, if the storm sewer is connected to domestic wastewater, a bio-treatment system. After the collector, wastewater can be used (irrigation, household needs), diverted to its own pond, the nearest reservoir or a common drainage system (permit is required).

Drainage pipes with holes are collected excess moisture from the soil and diverted to the storm drain, if the site does not have a separate drainage system.

Distribution pipes can be made of PVC or HDPE, completely smooth or two-layer, with an outer corrugated part. Cast iron and concrete pipelines are almost never used for these purposes. Pipe class - for outdoor sewerage. We will discuss the calculation of the diameter of the pipes below.

System materials must be selected taking into account strength, inertness to corrosion, resistance to mechanical damage and temperature changes, ease of installation, and service life.

Before performing work, it is necessary to draw a future network, determine the installation locations of its elements, compile a list and estimate of upcoming purchases.

The scheme is developed, starting from the drain points and to the collector or drainage well. The open and closed part of the route, network drops along the laying depth are applied to the site plan, the installation sites of sand traps and wells are indicated. The diameters and lengths of pipes, the number of branches, connecting elements are determined, the volume of excavation and installation work is outlined.

1 - garage; 2 - revision well; 3 - drainage tray with a grate; 4 - house; 5 - storm water inlet; 6 - door tray; 7 - sand collector; 8 - HDPE pipes; nine - drainage pipes with perforation; 10 - a tank for collecting and cleaning rainwater

The scheme may include additional elements: plugs, siphons, check valves(collector binding).

Advice! When working out the scheme, consider the laying of other communications and pipelines in your area. They shouldn't interfere with each other.

Calculation of system parameters

For normal operation of stormwater, determine:

discharged water consumption;
pipe diameter;
pipeline slope;
padding depth.

The discharge water consumption depends on the area from which water is removed and the intensity of precipitation (according to SNiP-2.04.03-85, Table 4). The volume of discharged water is calculated according to the formulas for rain and melt water, in detail, taking into account the correction factors set out in Section 3 "Methods for calculating the volumes of organized and unorganized runoff", Kaluga, 2011 (there is a calculation algorithm in SNiP, but it is more complicated) .

AT general view the calculation formula looks like this:

Q is the volume of water that the system must divert;
q20 is the intensity of precipitation;
F is the area of surfaces from which water is planned to be drained;
Ψ is a correction factor depending on the coating material of the site from which water is collected.

At the confluence with other flows, the costs from each storm water inlet are summed up, the diameters of the pipes become larger. In practice, for individual sections of storm water country house with a plot they take pipes Ø 100-150 mm, for the main line - Ø 200 mm.

The slopes of channels, trays and pipelines are taken according to SNiP-2.04.03-85, which determines minimum values for:

Ø 150 mm - 0.008 (8 mm per 1 linear meter);
Ø 200 mm - 0.007 (7 mm per 1 linear meter).

For individual trays of any section, the minimum slope is 0.005 (5 mm per 1 running meter). Some reinforced concrete products immediately have the desired slope, indicated by an arrow.

In practice, it is desirable to make the slope greater than the minimum: 15-30 mm per 1 linear meter. m.

The depth of laying domestic storm sewers is less than drainage if both networks are installed on the site, and averages 30 cm.

Storm sewer installation

The scheme has been worked out, calculations have been made, all elements of the system have been purchased. At the first stage, gutters and pipes are mounted on the roof.

The next step is markup. future system on the site: with a tape measure, pegs and ropes. Having outlined the laying of the route and the installation of a sand trap, wells and a collector, they begin earthworks.

Linear sewer trays laid on coated paths are mounted taking into account the preparation of the pillow so that their upper edge does not protrude above tiles, asphalt or cobblestones (the level of the surface to be drained). Trays must be installed in a dug and compacted trench on a sand or sand-cement substrate. So the product will be securely fixed and last longer. After installing the trays, the joints between the individual segments are sealed and the entire channel is covered with a grate.

Scheme of laying the drainage tray: 1 - sand cushion; 2 - concrete base; 3 - soil; 4 - artificial base; 5 - asphalt concrete pavement; 6 - drainage tray with a grate; 7 - thermal seams (bitumen, sealant); eight - paving slabs; 9 - leveling layer; 10 - base

Important! When laying the trays, do not forget to determine the slope towards the collector with a level.

Simultaneously with the trays, according to the scheme, sand traps are built into the system (at the water inlet from the tray into the pipe) and revision wells.

Storm water inlets are mounted, to which a knee is attached at a slight slope, and a closed distribution of pipes with fittings is carried out to the collector or the place of water discharge. Pipes of closed wiring are laid in dug trenches on a sand cushion.

When connecting a storage collector to the network, you need to make sure that it is dug below the level of pipelines and thermally insulated with a layer of sand and gravel.

Before covering the wiring with sand, tiles, earth or turf, you need to carry out hydraulic tests, locate leaks and repair. Only after positive result system test is closed.

The site is beautiful, the house, buildings and paths are protected from excess moisture!

Sun, air and water are ours best friends. Of course it is. But sometimes a large number of water is causing completely unnecessary problems. And its constant addition in the form of snow and rain will turn the problem into a difficult one to resolve. If this private house or country cottage area, then the territory will become swampy, mud will squelch underfoot, and the beds and vegetable gardens will cease to please. Moreover, they torment the owners to the point of stupefaction. And if the house is in a low place, then water will appear in the basement, flood the foundation, the whole structure will rot ...

But you can easily stop this nightmare. And with your own hands, which is very important. There are well-designed drainage systems from the site or house, available necessary equipment and material for its installation. By the way, there is also an old-fashioned way to save from excess moisture- digging ditches. This is laborious work, but there is a more modern and comfortable view site protection is sewerage.

Drainage of the place where the house is located, country house or another building, can be of 2 types:

Surface drainage channel.
Deep removal of moisture through pipes.

Deep drainage is installed in those places where ground water are close, as well as if a private house is being built on low, swampy areas. To do this, use perforated pipes that lead water to the nearest reservoir, pond or storm sewer. Surface drainage in one form or another is used in almost every area. However, a single network - sewerage systems - will provide both landscaping, security, and high quality life.

Surface drainage

The best option would be to plan the removal of excess moisture from the house or site even in the process of planning the construction of the building. But it happens that this is not necessary during construction or is simply not taken into account, which can be caused by the absence of a drainage system. Over time, the landscape changes, the soil sags in some place, the neighbors, on the one hand, raised their beds, built bridges, or, on the other hand, completely abandoned gardening; yes, there can be many options: you never know what kind of situation can develop. So, there was a need to divert water. It is best to install a drainage system, and not to patch up in places, you know, the miser pays twice. You can save a lot if you make your own.

You should know that there are several types of surface drainage:

Linear.
Spot.
Drainage field (network of pits).
Combined.

Linear sewer works in unified system, forms a drainage channel, collects water over the entire area along the lines of built-in gutters, hence the name. It is similar to the ditches that gardeners dug in the last century along the perimeter of the entire territory, added trenches in other places or dug a drainage hole where waterlogging appeared. And even now in some areas you can see ditches, they perform the same functions as the drainage system. The inconvenience lies in the fact that they are overgrown with grass, covered with sand, debris. In addition, such pits are traumatic. But without problems (only a shovel is needed), everything can be done with your own hands.

Construction assembly

Modern sewer drainage or drainage systems are installed on the basis of earthworks. Then trays, a sand trap are selected, taking into account the dimensions. The length of the tray is 1 meter, the width is from 70 to 150 millimeters, but the depth can be very different. How more water need to be taken away from the site, the wider and deeper it is necessary to select the gutters (plastic, metal, polymer concrete). Do-it-yourself drainage channel is installed in the following order:

The entire channel line must be built so that it runs at an angle. Based on 5 mm per 1 meter of line length. So the water will not stagnate, will not bad smell from stagnation, the gutters will always be clean. And this is the key to the long-term functioning of the entire system.

In order for the drainage channel to function in a full-fledged way, it is necessary to periodically clean not only the sand trap, but the entire water path. Systems will not only extend the life of a residential building, but will also give you the opportunity to enjoy good harvest to have solid ground under your feet.

Water Sewer Material

How to choose the right trays, gutters for storm sewers? It all depends on the place where the drainage channel is installed. If there is no heavy load in this place in the form of cars, walk-behind tractors and other heavy equipment, then plastic gutters are quite suitable. They are produced with the addition of special stabilizers for resistance to aggressive environments, and are also frost-resistant. For places with a heavy load, concrete trays with reinforcement, with galvanized plates, are suitable. Polymer concrete channels from natural stone, which is glued with synthetic resin, can withstand a force of up to 55 tons.

The water intake grate covers the entire surface drainage, it must also correspond to the received load. For the area of movement of pedestrians and cyclists, load class A is suitable (withstands 1.5 tons), for access roads and parking lots road transport- B (12.5 tons), class C can withstand 25 tons.

The service life of gratings depends on their material. So the cast-iron decorative gutter cover lasts 25 years, but the galvanized one only lasts 10 years. But the choice is always up to those who often establish the entire system of life of the economy with their own hands.

About point sewerage

Point sewerage is used to collect and remove moisture from roofs. You can install it yourself. Roof drains will save the foundation from rapid destruction. The destruction in this place occurs imperceptibly; if there is no sewerage, then water flows to the foundation, to the base of the foundation, under the blind area, wets the basement, early frosts form ice, which breaks not only the frozen soil, but also more strong materials. First, cracks appear, then the wall begins to crumble. And then there is no stopping the process of destruction, it acts like a domino principle.

The drainage system from roof structures only at first glance seems unnecessary, in fact it is necessary element the quality of the building.

So, point type sewerage, its peculiarity is that the collection of water is carried out in certain points. First of all, these are places drainpipes. At these points, a storm water inlet is installed, which is connected by pipes to the storm drain.

Connecting a point drain to a storm sewer

The storm water inlet consists of plastic container, siphon partitions and baskets with a handle. It is in the basket that water from the roof initially enters, and with it some debris. Debris remains in it, and the liquid flows further. The basket should be emptied from time to time. Unscrew the screws, remove the grate, pull out the basket, throw out the trash. Doing it yourself is easy.

Correctly installed systems drainage, including drainage from all roofs, will greatly extend the life of the house.

Drainage trays are used in places that are known for heavy rainfall all year round, as well as in areas with clay soil. Since water flows after heavy rains and melting snow wash away the layer suitable for growing various crops, it has to be topped up from time to time and black soil purchased for this purpose. These trays help to eliminate this problem by creating a system whereby wastewater will be removed along the trays, and not spread over the site. In this article we will tell you how to make concrete drainage trays with your own hands.

Drainage system device

Such systems, arranged on the site, can be performed using different schemes. However, it is important to steadily follow a number of important rules:

the slope of the trays during the installation of rain sewers should be approximately 10 mm per linear meter;
the fewer angles in the drainage system and turns - the better;
moisture should not drain into the garden: on the contrary, it must be removed from it.

In cases where rather complex drainage has to be done within the garden, where perennial trees or extensive shrubs grow, then the best option in this situation is a branching system. How does she look? Water flows out of the site in two places, therefore, there will be not one exit, but two.

It can also often be that the surface of the entire infield is quite uneven, so it is extremely difficult to make a normal slope there. In this case, the drainage system is done differently - all the slopes that will occur when laying concrete drainage systems must correspond to the height that is available at each site mark.

For areas with a more or less even surface, a standard drainage pattern, known as linear, is used. Several channels are dug, located parallel to each other, after which they are connected at a point with the smallest slope.

Fill mold device

To understand how to make concrete drainage trays, you need to understand the principle of their action. In autumn and winter, a considerable amount of precipitation falls on the site near the house or cottage. Subsequently, they spread over the adjacent territory, flooding the lowlands, creating dampness in the basements and spoiling the wall decoration. If there are properly made concrete trays around a private house, then the water will go through them and then be diverted away without creating problems on the site.

How to make sure that water is drained through the tray quickly and without delay? It is believed that a trench with a slope of 30 ° will allow the water to leave quickly. Although this is true, a trench with such a slope will soon wash out and then collapse. Making concrete trays is the best option, because they are not afraid of moisture and will do their job perfectly. Such trays can be purchased in stores, or you can make your own. How - see below.

What are the advantages of concrete trays that are made by you personally? First, it is economy. Although it is not very easy to make them, it will be cheaper than buying such factory-made trays in a store. Secondly, these are individual sizes, because some trays from the store will have to be cut if there is a turn in the gutter trench, and at home you can fill trays of the desired length and shape.

By the way, about the form. The semicircular shape is considered optimal, through which water passes with little or no resistance. However, since this form is not easy to make, trays are most often made according to the following scheme. From boards or sheets of laminated plywood with a thickness of 10–15 mm, a U-shaped structure is made. To give strength, the panels in the formwork are fastened with rolled metal corners.

For the molding part, a sewer plastic pipe of a suitable diameter is ideal, since its surface is smooth. There are practically no pores on such a pipe, which makes it possible to pour concrete much better.

Filling trays in the form

Portland cement M400 (characterized by great strength and resistance to frost).
Sand without clay impurities.
Rubble.
Reinforcement Ø 6 mm.

Ready concrete is poured into the molds made, then a pipe is immediately pressed into it, cut along it. After a day has passed, the form can be disassembled, trying not to break it, but pull out the pipe (also preferably whole).

Why is reinforcement necessary? It allows you to significantly increase the strength of the future structure, and also will not allow the tray to break during its removal from the formwork. Thanks to reinforcement or meshes, quite long trays can be made from it.

Trays are made in four approaches:

First, a mold is prepared in which the tray (or several at once) will be poured, as well as the molding part.
Reinforcement is made and laid in a mold (several longitudinal rods or mesh).
Knead and pour the solution into the formwork.
After the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed and the finished drainage trays are removed.

If the formwork is done incorrectly, then the strength of the resulting trays will be low. In its manufacture, boards with a thickness of not more than 25 mm are usually used, always smooth and without knots. You can fasten boards with nails, but it is possible that under the pressure of concrete, nails will not connect two boards as well as wood screws. In addition, when constructing the formwork, it is imperative to use spacers, which can be made from pieces of bars equal in length to the width of the formwork.

So that the water in the concrete mixture does not flow out through the bottom and walls of the formwork, they should be covered with a plastic film, preferably at least 200 microns thick.

Necessary tools and fixtures

To prepare concrete for pouring and the trays themselves, you will need certain tools. These can be devices powered by a 220 V electrical network, as well as hand tools:

two shovels - shovel and bayonet;
trowel or trowel;
a wheelbarrow or bucket with which concrete can be transferred and poured into the formwork.

From power tools you need the following:

a concrete mixer (if it is not there, you can ask friends for a while or rent it);
a hammer drill or impact drill, as well as a nozzle for a mixer (if there is no concrete mixer, and the solution will be kneaded by hand).

Shovels are needed to throw mortar into the concrete mixer, and then collect concrete from the wheelbarrow and pour it into the formwork. A trowel is usually used to level the top layer of the tray being poured.

Reinforcement and pouring of the tray

When the reinforcement is laid, the formwork can be poured. How to make concrete correctly was described above. It is advisable to use a construction vibrator during pouring - an apparatus necessary for compacting concrete and removing air bubbles and excess water from it. If it is not there, you can take a piece of reinforcement or something similar and compact the concrete with this up and down movement.

When the concrete is poured, it is necessary to immediately use the molding part from the pipe, thanks to which the top of the mold will turn out in the form of a semicircle. For a better effect, you can sprinkle the top of the poured form with dry cement, which was used in the manufacture of concrete, in order to “ironize” the surface, that is, to give it greater strength. And the pipe can not only be pressed into a fresh mixture, but scrolled several times in different directions, without pressing too much - so the semicircular surface will have greater smoothness.

It takes 28 days for the concrete to fully cure. However, after a day, the formwork can be disassembled - the concrete has reached the degree of preliminary solidification, that is, it has not gained full strength, but it will not fall apart in the hands. The resulting tray should be rectangular in shape, and its inner cavity is semicircular, smooth, without pits, cracks and other defects.

Before laying the trays, you need to dig rectangular trenches for them in accordance with one of the selected installation schemes. The bottom of the excavated trench is covered with a small amount of sand (the so-called sand cushion) to make it easier to adjust the slope of the tray.

If the trays run near walkways or through concrete, they can be covered with gratings that will prevent debris from accumulating there, as well as secure the movement of people.

Video

This video shows how you can make concrete trays at home:

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