How to treat metal from rust before painting. Painting a rusty gate
The surface cleaned with a brush will need to be carefully smoothed with a grinder. If you are faced with the task of cleaning a large surface of metal, perhaps the best option will use sandblasting machine. This device will help get rid of rust quite quickly, without spending special efforts. In addition, such a machine will help you cope with rust in hard-to-reach places where manual removal would be impossible.
Chemical rust removal
To remove rust, you can also use special chemicals that simply dissolve it. These agents primarily include strong alkalis and acids. If you decide to use this method, be extremely careful when working with chemical reagents.Rust can not be removed, but turned into a durable film using chemical converters. Such transducers can be purchased in the form of an emulsion or suspension. However, such tools have their drawbacks, for example, they add their own shade to the paint with which the metal is covered, in addition, the metal layer becomes somewhat thicker due to the use of these tools.
Degreasing
The next step in preparing the metal is to clean it from dirt and remove grease from the surface. Without these procedures, the painting will also be of poor quality. Wipe the metal surface using a strong detergent. These products are often made with citrus oils, which are very effective at cleaning rusty surfaces. After such cleaning, the metal may appear rust spots. You can get rid of them with an ordinary solvent by wetting a piece of material in it.Primer
The cleaned surface should be carefully coated with an inhibitor primer containing iron oxide or zinc chromate. Apply this remedy following the instructions for its use. Try not to use spray guns, the primer may not fill the entire porous surface of the metal.Painting
Apply 2 coats of paint to the metal surface, it can be either matte or glossy. Use a brush or roller to apply paint. These tools will ensure maximum contact with the surface, leaving almost no unpainted areas.Metal products are often covered with a rusty coating under the influence of natural conditions. It is strongly not recommended to apply paint on a surface covered with rust.
Instruction
Rust can damage separate sections metal, and can cover the entire metal surface. Getting rid of this plaque is quite simple, but if this is not done, any, even the highest quality paint, applied in a thick layer, will not last long. The process of metal oxidation will continue, and rust will corrode the iron, penetrating deeper and deeper. Treatment of metal products and structures before painting significantly extends their service life, helping to prevent oxidation.
At the first stage of rust removal, a metal brush is used. With its help, the metal is thoroughly cleaned of loose deposits. On large surfaces, it is better to use an impeller equipped with a cleaning wheel. First you need to buy a corrosion converter, this tool can be found in any store building materials. The surface cleaned with a brush is treated with this composition, applying it with a brush or spray. When a corrosion converter comes in contact with rust, chemical reaction, which transforms rusty metal into a dark solid. After the cleaning process is completed, the surface is opened with a layer of soil. You can start painting only after the primer is completely dry. The paint is applied in at least two layers in order to minimize the access of moisture to the iron surface.
If the items that have been exposed to rust are very small and cannot be cleaned with mechanical devices, they are processed by washing. To do this, pour a rust remover into the container and leave it in it. small parts for a while. After washing, rust residues are removed and treated with a special varnish that prevents reappearance corrosion.
Products made of iron and its alloys are highly susceptible to corrosion - spontaneous destruction under the influence of external environment. To stop this process and protect the metal from damaging effects, its surface must be painted over.
If the rust is not covered large plots or the metal product itself has not big sizes, you can use the usual paints and varnishes designed for metal coating. In this case, it is necessary in advance. To do this, use metal scrapers and brushes, chisels. This process is both laborious and messy, but it is absolutely necessary for the paint to adhere well and last for a long time.
In the event that large areas are covered with rust and the product itself is large, it is not necessary to clean its surface of rust before painting. You need to use special paint applied directly to rust. These are paints that belong to water-dispersion primers, which include phosphoric acid. Thanks to her, chemical composition rust is transformed and modified, and over it is formed polymer film, reliably protecting the metal surface from moisture. This modification of rust and scale slows down the corrosion process by preventing the penetration of moisture, but under the film, the process can develop further.
For rusty metal surfaces, solvent-based two-pack formulations consisting of base and hardener can also be used. They contain corrosion inhibitors and targeted additives based on epoxy resins. These are, for example, primer enamels: "Rzhavoyed-universal", "Gremirust", "XV-0278", or a mixture of an organic solution of a copolymer of vinyl chloride with vinyl acetate with the addition of epoxy resin "XC-500". The disadvantage of such waterborne paints is small selection colors, in addition, they have matte surface and are characterized by relatively high porosity. In addition, such coatings can only be used at temperatures not lower than + 8 ° C and at air humidity not higher than 75%. But as a preliminary priming before the subsequent application of solvent-based paints, they may well be used in more extreme ones.
In more aggressive environments for finishing two-pack solvent-based paints with a higher degree of protection and a wide range of colors, or the recently appeared one-pack solvent-based protective and decorative coatings for rusty metal surfaces, should be used. These modern paints and varnishes have more a high degree protection, due to the presence of aluminum powder in their composition. It has a high reflectivity and protects the metal surface from any kind of radiation, while reducing its temperature, making the operating conditions more comfortable. The use of one-package solvent-borne protective and decorative coatings significantly reduces the cost of painting rusty surfaces and reduces the time for repair work.
Tip 4: Paints for rust - a simple solution to a complex problem
Cleaning large surfaces from rust is long, messy and troublesome. I really don't want to do this kind of work. It is good that there are many paints and enamels for rust, they greatly facilitate the process of painting an old metal surface.
Why Rust Paint Can Work Faster
If you do everything right, painting an old rusty garage can take a very long time. The complex interweaving of pipes is also not easy to clean from rust flakes. This work is long and dirty.
Regular paint won't stick to rusted areas and will peel off very quickly if you can somehow fix it. The composition of anti-corrosion enamels for metal includes special components that penetrate the metal through the smallest pores and stop the destruction.
No sanding required before applying paint old surface to bare metal, it is enough to fan the flakes of the old coating, which themselves are ready to fall off.
What are rust paints?
1. "Rzhaved universal" - enamel primer, designed for indoor and outdoor use. This paint is used to protect metal structures from corrosion in adverse conditions that promote rust. Also, "Rzhaveder Universal" stops the corrosion of alloys, strengthens the surface of concrete and even wood. The paint can be applied to those structures that are operated at temperatures from - 60 to + 100 ° C.
2. The Hammerite product line has many of the most different colors by rust. Hammered enamel with silicone additives restores the resistance of the metal surface to adverse atmospheric conditions. Suitable for processing ferrous and non-ferrous metals, concrete, plastic, wood. The anti-corrosion effect lasts 8 years.
3. "Nerzhamet" - anti-corrosion paint with alkyd resins and polymer additives in the composition. It can also be applied directly to the surface without pre-treatment.
4. Primer-enamel on rust from Novbytchim is used for painting and protecting surfaces that are partially or completely corroded. This is a 3 in 1 product - a rust converter, a decorative top coat and an anti-corrosion primer.
5. TICIANA alkyd rust enamel primer is used indoors and outdoors. This tool is well suited for strengthening the surface touched by rust and creating anti-corrosion coating. TICIANA prevents the further spread of rust under the paint layer.
6. Poli-Hammer enamel on rust, in addition to all the above advantages of other materials, has excellent decorative qualities. The old rusty metal surface after the Poli-Hammer treatment becomes outwardly similar to a noble one. an antique.
Before applying any of the above products, the metal surface must be cleaned of rust, dust and dirt, degreased. The easiest way to do this is with special means, corroding rust. The most popular and effective is the Rzhavoyed-Universal enamel primer. This composition will simultaneously clean and prime the metal. Among this series there are compounds that color the surface. Therefore, wanting to saturated color, it is enough to apply a second layer of Rusty Eater.
What is the best paint for rust?
Lot positive feedback from garage owners metal fences, boats about rust paint Hammerite. It belongs to the category of quick-drying (2 hours is enough), but for quality coverage at least two coats are required. This composition is recommended to be used only in warm, not wet weather.
If there is no time or desire to pre-clean the metal, you can use the "Nezjamet" paint. It is made on the basis of alkyd resins, dries quickly, corrodes rust. But it should be noted that when applying this paint to an uncleaned surface, the coating layer will be embossed in places. On the prepared and primed metal, the paint will lie more evenly, which will provide the product with an attractive finish. appearance.
If you need the most a budget option paints for rust, you can buy Iron Minium. This product has excellent covering power. It can be used if you need to quickly bring a garage, fence or anything else into proper shape. "Iron minium" lays down well and, thanks to a thick layer of coating, effectively masks any flaws. But you need to know that in the fight against corrosion it is less effective than the above means. However, during long period time will retain the look that was obtained after staining.
One of the most expensive and high-quality rust-fighting products is Alpina paint (Direct auf Rost). It belongs to the category of primer enamels and was specially designed for processing. This paint is different in that it does not contain lead, which is present in many other formulations. It is almost odorless, durable, has good covering ability. Before applying it, it is enough to clean the metal only from dirt and dust.
19.08.2014 09:39
Rust - main enemy iron and some other metal alloys, which occurs during the oxidation of the material. At the same time, it appears quite quickly, since it is impossible to block the access of oxygen and water to iron structures.
If you nevertheless chose some iron structures for your home or summer cottage, then you will definitely face the question: how to protect the metal from rust?
Many homeowners usually just paint the damaged metal, but this usually does not solve the problem. The paint is peeling off, the rust is reappearing. Because of this, almost every season iron structures need to be updated. by the most simple solution problem is the purchase of special anti-corrosion paint. Then the surface does not need additional pretreatment, as the specialized paint is usually applied directly to the rust.
Such paints combine several means at once. Firstly, it is a rust converter, the main element of which is usually phosphoric acid. Interacting with the decay products of iron, this acid forms on the surface protective film which protects the metal from impact environment.
Secondly, it is an anti-corrosion primer. If the rust converter is struggling with defects that have already appeared, then the primer performs leading role in the further protection of the metal. The most common epoxy primer is the most versatile. But depending on the location of metal structures, you can choose paint with other types of primer: polyurethane primer is more expensive than epoxy, but its protective qualities are higher; alkyd primer is necessary for metal structures that experience frequent temperature changes, it has a high degree of frost resistance.
And, finally, the third element of the composition of anti-corrosion paint - actually decorative element. Here you can choose the color of your choice.
Another advantage of anti-corrosion paint is quick drying and no smudges. To date, the use of this paint is the fastest and easiest way to deal with rust. The service life is enough for several years, and repair work will take a couple of hours. Main disadvantage this paint is a high cost. But if you look at the problem rationally, then other methods are just as costly, because you have to choose from only two options: 1) painting rust almost every season (you will have to use many more cans of paint);
2) buying all three paint elements (rust converter, primer, just paint) separately, which will also cost a pretty penny. Moreover, both of these methods require more time, since pre-cleaning rust is a must.
We recommend rust converters of the Docker Chemie GmbH group of companies in Russia, available for order on the website http://smivka.ru/catalog/preobrazovateli-rzhavchiny at an affordable and favorable price. High quality products will pleasantly surprise every customer.
Metal is strong and durable.
Its enemy is rust, which can completely destroy products made from it.
The answer to the question of how to paint rusty metal is essential in order to keep iron structures in working order for as long as possible.
The main causes of rust are interaction with oxygen contained in the air and constant contact with moisture.
This process is very fast, sometimes a few days are enough for a new product to become covered with rusty dots.
- Metal brush, spatula, sandpaper is an old, well-known method. It is practical only in those places where it is easy to penetrate and where the layer affected by corrosion can be easily removed.
- A special nozzle for a drill will greatly simplify the work.
- Kor-brush and petal circle for the grinder - effective method when the area of the damaged metal is small and has a flat shape.
- Sandblasting installation allows you to remove rust even 15 years old. With this unit, you can clean a large area of a metal surface in a matter of minutes and without much effort, even in the most inaccessible places.
- Citric acid is used if the product has not been painted and can be immersed in citric acid for 24 hours. There is another option with this compound: treat the surface with it, and then cover it plastic wrap and secure it so it doesn't slip. This method helps even with a thick layer of rust and in places where mechanical methods do not help.
If you apply table vinegar with a sponge to the treated area and rinse, you can easily remove thin layer rust.
- To get rid of a thick layer of rusty plaque, on metal structure Orthophosphoric acid is applied with a brush or sprayer. It is left for 12 hours, then washed off with soapy water. Extreme care must be taken so that acid does not get on the face, hands, eyes, while working in rubber gloves and goggles.
- Rust converters have appeared relatively recently. They are usually in the form of an emulsion or suspension, which is applied for several hours after the peeling layer has been removed. It reacts with rust and forms insoluble iron phosphate. Then the iron salts are washed off large quantity water.
It is especially important to thoroughly clean those places where the rust forms several layers and falls off in pieces.
Degreasing and priming
Degreasing is carried out using gasoline, acetone, turpentine.
Using a brush, roller or sprayer, they process metal.
Then wash off using a piece of cloth.
Also suitable for concentrated soap solution or diluted detergent.
After that, you must wait until the surface is completely dry.
The primer is used to close the pores and make the surface more even.
It also provides good adhesion of the paint to the metal.
When choosing a primer, it should be noted that some of its types are highly specialized, intended for use only with certain types of coloring agents, while others are universal and suitable for almost all types of paint.
- GF-021 - liquid gray color. It is diluted with a solvent. Its main function is to remove traces of corrosion. It can be applied without subsequent treatment with any paint. It takes 12 hours for it to dry completely. It is characterized by low heat resistance - can withstand temperatures up to 60 degrees.
- Primer GF-031 perfectly protects against corrosion. She is not afraid high temperatures(up to 200 degrees). It is based on glyptal varnish. She has yellow. For dilution, it is recommended to use xylene, solvents (for example, RS-2, RKB-1). This primer has so high quality, which is used in the aircraft industry for coating surfaces. It is sold at retail; the price is affordable.
- Priming mixture VL-02 contains phosphoric acid, which, destroying metal particles, creates a continuous film. Its basis is polyvinbutyral. For dilution immediately before use, solvents R-6, 648 and RFG are used. It dries in record time - in just 20 minutes at a temperature of + 22 ° C. It is combined with almost all enamels and paints based on organic solvents. It is especially good to process galvanized, aluminum, stainless steel with it.
- Primer suspension AU-1417R contains pigments, urethane and rust converter. The presence of the latter makes it possible to process black steel without preliminary cleaning of rusty metal. Urethane is a chemical widely used in the production of polyurethane foam. It provides a high degree of adhesion of this primer to the metal. Thanks to the pigments, you can choose suitable color and use AU-1417R as the main paint. Then it is applied in several stages. It is important to wait for the complete drying of each layer. Also, this suspension goes well with polyurethane enamels.
It is advisable to use a brush or roller when applying the primer. The sprayer does not always provide 100% coverage of all notches and cracks, especially if the surface of the object has a highly porous structure.
Paint selection
After priming, painting is carried out in the main. When choosing how to paint rusty metal on the street, it is important to consider the basis of materials. It must be compatible with the previously applied primer layer.
If such a layer is absent, then choose such coloring agents that simultaneously solve the problem of rust and provide the desired shade of the product. Such materials contain polymer components that neutralize the oxidative process.
Phosphoric acid, often used for this purpose, corrodes rust. It acts where it was not possible to remove traces of corrosion and protects the metal.
Under the action of such paints, a continuous film is formed that does not allow air and moisture to pass through. This prevents the formation of rust.
Paints offered on the market can be divided into ordinary enamels, acrylic (water-soluble and insoluble), resin-based, alkyd.
Types of paints
Acrylic paints are diluted only with water. They are considered combination paints because they combine three processes (surface cleaning, priming and painting) into one. They are applied directly to rusty metal.
Their composition is unique in that it neutralizes rust, protects the metal from future corrosion and gives a beautiful appearance. The cost of these paints is quite high.
Their benefits include:
- No need to clean off rust.
- Long service life of the painted surfaces at observance of all technological requirements.
- No microcracks under mechanical loads.
- Breeding does not cause significant damage to the environment.
- Ease of use.
- Can be used for both external and internal works even in rooms with high humidity.
A distinctive feature of such paints is their good adhesion to the metal, even if there are remnants of the previously applied layer. They are mixed and applied to a degreased metal surface.
As a tool, you can use any device for painting works. They are based on water, respectively, they must also be diluted with water.
Paints based on epoxy resins are called solvent-based and two-component. They can also remove rust. As the name implies, they have two components: a base and a hardener.
Epoxy resins create a strong insulating film. Hardener sold separately.
The quality of painting depends on the proportion in which these two components are mixed. Usually the hardener is not more than 10%. More specific instructions are given on the packaging of each product.
If necessary, these paints and varnishes are diluted with special active thinners. Drying time is 4 to 10 hours. These colors give a wide color scheme and are attractively priced.
Alkyd paints and enamels are sold ready-to-use. They are based on artificial alkyd resins and organic solvents. After complete drying, the surface becomes glossy. If the paint is too thick, you can use white spirit or turpentine to dilute it.
It is easy to use and allows you to color large areas behind a short time. After drying, it forms a hard film of rather considerable thickness, which prevents the influence of environmental factors. It provides a wide range. Its disadvantage is strong toxicity.
Water-dispersion formulations save money. Paints with anti-corrosion additives and rust converters are more expensive, but they save effort and time on cleaning the surface. In addition, they create a durable elastic coating that remains unchanged for a long time.
Painting process
When painting metal products, it must be borne in mind that such a temperature heated by the sun can far exceed the ambient temperature.
Painting hot products can lead to unwanted defects.
On the other hand, painting on wet, damp or condensed surfaces is unacceptable.
Fog also creates excess moisture. The weather during the painting of metal products located outside must be dry.
To apply paint, you can use the following tools:
- Paint brushes (it is necessary to carefully monitor so that stains, stripes and drops do not form; good way for products with a complex shape).
- Rollers (preferably 30 cm in length; moving the roller from top to bottom, you need to overlap the strips).
- Spray paint sprayer (the most economical option).
One-time painting rarely gives the expected result. Usually it is necessary to make 2-3 layers, sometimes four or more. Allow at least 3 hours for the paint to cure before applying the next coat.
Painting rusty surfaces in a cellar
When deciding how to paint rusty metal in, you need to be guided by the same principles as for the street, and choose from the same materials. In doing so, the following must be taken into account:
What is the ventilation in the cellar
Coloring agents with converters contain concentrated acid. When inhaled, it damages the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract. These chemical burns are difficult to treat. To avoid harm to health, you need to create good ventilation.
In those cellars where this is not possible, a respirator should be worn while working with chemicals. This creates inconvenience in work, but protects the respiratory system.
There is another: choose paints and varnishes without a rust converter in their composition. Then you need to minimize the coloring time due to the toxicity of such materials and the lack of protection for the mouth and nose.
How dry is the surface
The question is not superfluous, since the humidity in the cellar is usually significantly increased. It is not recommended to use special rust converters here, because they are washed off with water and then the surface has to be dried for a long time.
It is better to resort to mechanical cleaning methods, if the shape and size of the object allows.
Is it possible to achieve drying of the surface in a natural way
In deep cellars, condensation forms on any surface. Sometimes they have stagnant water. Then hardware need to be dried. Various types of heaters are suitable for this.
A hair dryer will also come in handy. AT summer time additional doors open and exhaust hole to speed up the process.
Treatment of metal surfaces damaged by rust is not an easy task. To achieve, you need to clean, prime and paint the product, or use special combined coloring agents that combine all these steps.
How to paint a water barrel is shown in the video:
Many of us are familiar with the situation when we suddenly needed to paint a metal surface, and it turns out to be all covered with rust. And with a question "how to paint rusty pipe" faced by everyone who lives in old Soviet-built houses.
Indeed, under the influence of an aggressive external environment, metal surfaces often rust. Many do not pay attention to this and just paint over the rust. However, after some time, they are convinced that it was still worth preparing the metal for painting correctly. Not only does the rust-painted surface look very unaesthetic, but the paint begins to peel off from it very quickly.
This short article will tell you how to properly prepare a rusty surface for painting.
Depending on the amount of rust and the degree of its penetration into the metal, you can use one or more of the following steps to prepare the painted surface for painting.
Mechanical cleaning of the surface from rust
The first thing to do, of course, is to remove big chunks rust by mechanical cleaning of the surface. Usually, a metal brush is used for this. manual cleaning or a metal attachment on a grinder or drill to speed up the process.
The stage of mechanical cleaning from rust, unlike the subsequent ones, is mandatory, although quite laborious. However, even if you finish the pre-painting process at this stage, your painted surface will already look much better and the paint will last much longer.
After cleaning the surface in this way, it is highly desirable to smooth it with grinder in order to remove and even out all the bumps and scratches on the metal. Of course, if you have a very large surface to paint, it will be faster and easier to use a sandblaster, but not everyone has access to such equipment, so we will not delve into this issue.
Chemical surface cleaning
If it is not possible to remove all rust mechanically, it makes sense to use chemicals. These are acid-based products that simply corrode and dissolve rust on the surface.
Do not forget that when working with such products, as with any acids, you should be very careful and follow safety measures.
Degreasing, priming and surface painting
After removing the main layer of rust using one of the above methods, for a good adhesion of the paint, the surface must be degreased. Any strong detergent will work for this.
Next and final stage preparing the surface for painting is coating it with a primer. This step should not be skipped if you want your surface to look smooth and evenly colored. Apply primer as directed mechanically or with a sprayer.
That's it, now you can paint. Apply the paint to the surface using a brush, roller or spray gun. It is recommended to paint in two layers, so that there will definitely not be any unpainted areas on the surface.
And if the metal has rusted so much that there is no point in painting it, it may be worth replacing the part with a new one and getting rid of the old one. You can do it even with a little extra money. Where to hand over scrap metal you can find on this site. They will gladly accept your metal products and pay good money for it.
Mitka 02-10-2008 23:19
As support pillars for the intake slabs, I used bush pipes, which, apparently, rusted on the outside.
I want to paint directly on top of the rust, without prior sanding (for painting as many as 50 posts 4m long). In this regard, the question is: how to paint with such thermonuclear, so that it lasts for as long as possible?
passerby 03-10-2008 08:54
Without processing, nothing can be painted so that it holds. Loose rust will still need to be removed. For speed, I advise you to do this with a grinder with a radial metal brush. I painted such poles-pipes in exactly this way - I cleaned them with a "grinder" with a metal brush (only with a radial one - the "cup" gives a very strong vibration) and covered it with paint-primer "on rust" (Yaroslavl pr-va, or something .. .) they stood for a year - nowhere did anything fall off the coating.
petrovich 03-10-2008 11:39
I remember there was some kind of crap in the old days, adding paint, it was called a rust converter.
Mitka 03-10-2008 11:39
What about Hammerite? Should you spend? Or are there domestic analogues "for rust" of the same durability?
passerby 03-10-2008 12:16
What about Hammerite? Should you spend? Or are there domestic analogues "for rust" of the same durability?
Hammerite - paint is not bad, but expensive enough. And it also requires surface preparation - removal of loose rust. I used the Yaroslavl paint-primer for rust to paint the pillars (I don’t remember the name exactly - something like “rust stop”) - it’s holding up fine so far. True, the paint has wintered for a year - but so far it is holding on. I think that it is not necessary to buy expensive paint for fence posts - the thickness of the pipes is such that they will burn out even without any protection in 15-20 years. And if you paint - then if the paint does not fit too well - on next year can be repainted.
Ann 03-10-2008 12:50
And why is it bad to shed with zinc first, and then paint with paint?
passerby 03-10-2008 12:59
quote: Originally posted by Ann:
And why is it bad to shed with zinc first, and then paint with paint?
Quite good. But in terms of 50 pillars - how much will it be necessary to buy also "zincar"? And is it worth it? As I wrote above, pipe pillars do not require corrosion protection for 50 years, especially since no one will prevent them from rusting from the inside.
Nafigvajag 03-10-2008 13:09
Two years ago I put up a fence from the same pipes. I cleaned it with a grinder with a rough flip, welded the upper ends with round lids, otherwise it will pour water and tear ... I painted it with hammerite, while they are standing, everything is fine ...
Mitka 03-10-2008 13:28
In general, it turns out that you will need to clean it with a grinder ... Blah, there you will need to carry 150 meters.
passerby 03-10-2008 13:42
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
In general, it turns out that you will need to clean it with a grinder ... Blah, there you will need to carry 150 meters.
Carrying and so will come in handy on the site. However, you can simply clean it with a metal brush - the main thing is to tear off the loose layer, it is not necessary to clean it to bare metal (in my opinion) ...
Mitka 03-10-2008 14:13
I'll scrape 50 pillars with a brush
passerby 03-10-2008 14:17
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
I'll scrape 50 pillars with a brush
Mitka 03-10-2008 14:24
Do you need to wipe the posts after "cleaning"?
passerby 03-10-2008 14:27
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
Do you need to wipe the posts after "cleaning"?
Be sure to wipe with white spirit before painting. It won't take much time, white spirit won't take too much either.
DrLupus 03-10-2008 15:39
I make it easier. Kuzbass varnish, aka "Bitumen varnish", right on rust. I clean off the rust only if it is completely ... It falls off like cakes. Metal brush.
And so, if without thick layers, then the bitumen process easily stops - it does not let air into the metal. Cheap and cheerful.
There are also disadvantages. It dries badly, although if you don’t sit on the fence backwards, then don’t care.
Color - only black is obtained, this may not suit everyone.
Mitka 03-10-2008 16:16
quote: Originally posted by Rombal-Cochet:How did you ruin nature?
Why do you need such terrible fences?
Sorry for the offtopic, I couldn't resist looking at the photo.
Well, you have to live with us for a start. Then we'll see what kind of fences you will put up ...
TAURUS 03-10-2008 16:42
maybe smear grease, lithol, cannon fat with something greasy ... wrap it with foil and into the ground?
ASDER_K 03-10-2008 17:32
Without processing, nothing can be painted so that it holds. Loose rust will still need to be removed. For speed, I advise you to do this with a grinder with a radial metal brush. I painted such pillars-pipes in this way - I cleaned them with a "grinder" with a metal brush (only with a radial one - the "cup" gives a very strong vibration)
+1
quote: Originally posted by Passerby:
And it's not as long as it seems. If you take a good metal brush, it will take you 3 minutes maximum for 1 post. After all, as I wrote above - it is not necessary to clean up the metal, just remove the rust. Perhaps it will be even faster than a grinder ...
sizzle 50 poles to wave ... I tried - on the third I went for a drill with a brush ...
sergeant 03-10-2008 17:42
quote: there carrying 150 meters will be needed.
What for??
clean from dirt and rust in one place, and drag the poles to their places as needed.
psm 03-10-2008 18:19
quote: Originally posted by Passerby:And it's not as long as it seems. If you take a good metal brush, it will take you 3 minutes maximum for 1 post. After all, as I wrote above - it is not necessary to clean up the metal, just remove the rust. Perhaps it will be even faster than a grinder ...
Gastrobaiten?
Mitka 03-10-2008 18:50
quote: Originally posted by Serjant:
What for??
clean from dirt and rust in one place, and drag the poles to their places as needed.
Everything is already installed
cocoa 04-10-2008 12:42
Although I have not 50 tons of poles, but a little less than half of this. So I welded and painted bitumen with a working-out, for a dozen already and I don’t even fit.
True, the first two years I didn’t podkhldil. sticky and smeared. And then dust, dirt ate up and there are gray-burmaline, but judging by the photo, the color is purple for you. Yes, it’s also cheap, and if you also add a wax with paraffin there, and smear it hot on any rust, I guarantee it will last longer than iron.
Sincerely.
P.S. Also pour inside the mining pipe with a smear along the generatrix.
Mitka 04-10-2008 14:39
pipes are already welded on top. Damn, I can't find bituminous varnish anywhere
Mitka 04-10-2008 14:43
And another question: if bituminous varnish open, then it will be possible over time, for example, in a year, to cover it with paint?
cocoa 04-10-2008 23:33
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
cover it with paint?
I'm afraid it's unlikely. I have on old apartment the cast-iron sewer riser was first painted with bituminous varnish (it is cheaper for the housing office), and I already painted two layers on top. And after a while this lachok got out with such spots, I didn’t know what to do.
Sincerely.
cocoa 04-10-2008 23:39
quote: Originally posted by Mitka:
Damn, I can't find bituminous varnish anywhere
It is now called Kuzbass varnish and costs less than dirt. Identity nothing decision something that is in the country iron painted by him. For a long time, at least five years, but it can already be refreshed, although it will stand for a long time.
Sincerely.
Mitka 05-10-2008 01:04
In general, I bought a 3-component alkyd enamel"Rzhavostop" Tomorrow I'll clean everything up, wipe it with white spirit and paint it. I'll post the results.
alchemist 07-10-2008 14:24
hamerright or mastic for cars, we painted such a chain-link and poles without stripping, made it thinner and forverst.
7 years defended and at least henna
Mitka 07-10-2008 15:34
Rust was obscenely small. All cleaned up with a brush, painted. It turned out nice. Let's see how long they last.