How to grow a garden bindweed from seeds. Tropical flower bindweed stellate for your garden Bindweed convolvulus tricolor blue

garden bindweed belongs to the genus Bindweed (lat. Convolvulus) of the Bindweed family. There are more than 250 species of plants in this genus, the main unifying feature of which is the shape of the flowers. Representatives of the genus grow in areas with a temperate and subtropical climate. The scientific name of the genus comes from the Latin verb meaning "to roll up" and explains the need of many species to wrap their stems around other plants, using them as a support. The most common among bindweeds is field bindweed - the same bindweed weed that affects crops and private gardens.

Planting and caring for bindweed (in brief)

  • Bloom: from early June to autumn.
  • Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings - in March, planting seedlings in the garden - in mid-May.
  • Lighting: bright sunlight or penumbra.
  • The soil: permeable, preferably loamy.
  • Watering: moderate, but regular, especially in drought. The most moisture-loving species is the Mauritanian bindweed.
  • Top dressing: if necessary, pour under the bush wood ash or add a solution of a tablespoon of Nitrophoska and a tablespoon of Agricola for flowering plants in 10 liters of water at a consumption of 3 liters of fertilizer per 1 m² of land.
  • Garter: it is advisable to install supports for the plant immediately when planting seedlings: the sooner you guide the plant along the support, the easier it will be for you to take care of it.
  • Pruning: at any time if necessary.
  • Reproduction: The plant reproduces well by self-sowing. To prevent the bindweed from clogging the entire garden, remove its flowers immediately after withering so that the ripened seeds do not fall to the ground.
  • Pests: aphid.
  • Diseases: powdery mildew.

Read more about growing bindweed below.

Bindweed flower - description

The life forms of bindweed are numerous. In nature, annual bindweeds and perennial bindweeds are found. They may be herbaceous plants or semi-shrubs with erect or creeping stems up to 4 m long. Bindweeds have creeping rhizomes with filiform roots. The leaves of plants of this genus are usually simple, entire, alternate, petiolate, lobed or serrated, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped. The flowers that open early in the morning are arranged in axils one or three, or collected in inflorescences. The corolla of the flowers is bell-shaped or funnel-shaped with barely pronounced lobes. The fruit is a box with seeds that remain viable for 2-3 years.

Bindweed in the garden is a nightmare for any gardener, but bindweed ornamental plant is a fast-growing vine that is willingly used landscape designers. Its bright green, flexible shoots and delicate flowers able to drape any vertical surface. The bindweed flower only breeds seed way. To achieve maximum masking of the object with bindweed in a short time, it is advisable to use seedling method plant reproduction.

Bindweed seeds are sown for seedlings in March, having previously kept them in water for a day. They are laid out in separate cups with drainage holes for outflow. excess water filled with moist compost soil or soil mixture consisting of one part peat and two parts fertile land. Sprinkle the seeds on top with loose soil and lightly press it with your hands. Do not sow bindweed in a common box, because it does not tolerate a pick. Contain crops at a temperature of 18-20 ºC, watering regularly, and after two weeks, shoots can be expected.

Bindweed seedlings need to moisten the soil as it dries and to fertilize with a solution of mineral fertilizer in a weak concentration every two weeks.

Planting bindweed in the garden

When to plant bindweed

Once installed warm weather and the threat passes return frosts, bindweed seedlings after preliminary hardening are planted in the ground. Usually the necessary conditions arise in mid-May, although there are years when bindweed seedlings are planted in the first decade of June.

Choose a well-lit place for the plant: under the bright sun, the bindweed liana will bloom for a long time and profusely. The plant needs soil that is permeable, preferably loamy, although in general bindweed is not picky about the composition of the soil.

How to plant bindweed

The site for bindweed must be prepared in advance: dig up, introducing 2-3 kg of peat for each m² of area, and level it. Before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly so that they can be easily removed from the cups. Seedlings are planted by transshipment of seedlings into holes located at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other. After planting and embedding, the seedlings are watered again.

bindweed care

Growing bindweed in the garden

One of the important points in the care of bindweed is its watering, which should be regular and sufficient. Moisture deficiency can lead to dropping of buds, however, excessive moisture also does not will go to the plant to the benefit. In a normal summer with normal rainfall, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the bindweed, but if it’s hot, don’t forget to water it, especially if you grow an ampelous Moorish species.

The rest of the care for bindweed is simple: weeding the plant will be required only after planting, and as soon as the bindweed gets stronger, it is no longer afraid of any weeds. Growing bindweed may require the establishment of supports, and the sooner you do this, the better. Guide the bindweed shoots along the supports in a timely manner, and if the plant has spread too much, you can partially trim it without any harm to the bindweed. There is no need to remove wilted flowers or apply top dressing, but if it seems to you that the bindweed is not growing fast enough or blooming poorly, feed it with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Agricola for flowering plants and 1 tablespoon of Nitrophoska in 10 liters of water at the rate of 2.5- 3 liters per 1 m² of planting. You can also sprinkle wood ash under the bush.

Pests and diseases of bindweed

Bindweed is very rarely sick, pests do not bother him either. Powdery mildew can sometimes appear on it, for which the plant is treated with a Bordeaux mixture or other fungicide. It damages the bindweed aphid, which acaricides will help you get rid of - Aktellik, Antitlin or Aktara.

Bindweed after flowering

Bindweed is grown in annual culture, but if you want to save it, dig it up, transplant the plant into a pot, and let it winter in a bright frost-free room. In the spring it can be planted again in the garden. But since bindweed reproduces well by self-sowing, you will most likely see fresh seedlings of the plant in the spring in the place where it grew last year.

How to get rid of bindweed

When looking at a well-groomed garden bindweed, one simply cannot believe that his field relative can cause gardeners a lot of trouble. But this perennial has amazing vitality and endurance. He is able to strangle any plant in his tenacious embrace, and if you find a modest bush of field bindweed in your garden or vegetable garden, start fighting it immediately. Try to pull all its roots out of the ground with a rake. If you failed to do this, and the weed began to take over the garden, you will have to resort to herbicides - Tornado, Roundup or Lintur preparations. Start by applying "point strikes" and repeat the treatment several times.

With the total occupation of the site field bindweed in early spring, while you have not planted anything yet, dig up the soil, select all segments of the roots with a rake, and then cover the area with dark material that does not transmit light - roofing material or black film: without access to oxygen and light, with strong heating, the bindweed is unlikely to be able to survive. But just in case, on this site in current year do not plant anything but white mustard, which will not give the weed a single chance to survive. You can also sow fescue or bluegrass.

If the bindweed appeared in an already sown garden, you will have to weed daily, and the roots and stems of the bindweed with seeds must be burned. Herbicides are best used topically or after harvest. In autumn, the soil is dug deep, the bindweed roots are removed and burned. Resist the temptation to compost them because they might re-sprout.

Types and varieties of bindweed

There are not so many garden types of bindweed. We present you the most popular of them.

Mauritanian bindweed (Convolvulus sabatius = Convolvulus Mauritanicus)

beautiful plant for hanging baskets and containers, the shoots of which, covered with delicate gray-green leaves, reach a length of 50 cm. The flowers of this species are most often a light lilac hue.

Bindweed (Convolvulus bicuspidatus = Convolvulus fischerianus)

originally from Asia, Siberia and the Caucasus, where it grows on the dry slopes of the mountains, along the sandy banks of the rivers and in the mountain steppes. It has recumbent, ascending, slightly curly stems 30-40 cm long, glabrous or pubescent, arrow-shaped leaves on petioles 3 to 7 cm long and solitary pink flowers on long peduncles.

Everyone wants to decorate their home. Often this is done with . Between everyone possible types often choose modest, but beautiful - decorative bindweed. Let's see what this plant needs.

Garden forms of bindweed

The only difference is when to plant. Growing from seeds is often chosen because they need to be planted later and germinate in large numbers.

Soil preparation

The plant loves loose, with normal soil. Black earth would be best.
When you find suitable land for planting, first add sand for better flowering, after loosening the ground. Stir this mixture. Before planting, they bring into the ground (2-3 kg / sq. M).

Important! Peat is best applied just before planting bindweed.

Before planting, you need to place the seeds in water for two to four days. This is necessary for better germination. Swollen seeds can be planted.

Sowing seeds in open ground

Consider how to plant when we have everything ready. Prepare the peat before planting. You can immediately buy for better plant development.

Timing

Seeds are planted after soil preparation, in April - May. It is better to choose a warm sunny day.

Scheme

We make small furrows - approximately 2 cm deep. We plant the prepared seeds not densely, at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other. From above we fall asleep with loose earth, lightly tamp.
should be done twice a week. Under good conditions, sprouts appear in a week.

Bindweed is successfully used for decoration. This plant is perfect for creating, and compositions, flower figures.
It is specially planted to shade the territory and plant flowers there that love the shade. Among such plants, trillium and others can be used. You can also separate sectors with a bindweed.

He will look good with who are too climbing plants. Arbors and facades of houses are also decorated with flowers and protected from the sun.

Did you know? Using bindweed as the hero of a fairy tale, the writer Anna Sakse was able to convey the image of a person who, with the help of flattery and lies, uses others for his own purposes.

flower care

Convolvulus flowers can seem a bit complicated to care for. But difficulties arise only at the initial stage of landing. Growing up, the flowers need the same care, only in a smaller amount.

After planting, in order to avoid sudden changes in temperature, it is recommended to protect the beds.
This will also help in the fight against, because such material can serve as a quality. You can remove the covering material when there is a threat spring frosts and sudden changes in temperature will be minimal.

Watering, weeding, loosening

Weeding should be done as soon as it appears. If you use mulching, then there will not be many of them.

It is necessary to monitor the development of sprouts: weak and frail plants need to be removed, gradually planting grown flowers at a distance of 20-30 cm.
adult plants need as the earth dries up. With a lack of moisture, the bindweed will fall off the buds. Loosening the earth should be done once a week so that a lot of water does not evaporate.

You feel truly comfortable in the garden only if it has secluded corners that make it possible to relax or gather for a conversation without attracting the attention of strangers. Of course, you can quickly put up a blank fence or build stone wall, however, wood, stone and metal cannot create the desired atmosphere. Only living walls exude comfort.

Garden creepers as living walls

Creepers - climbing and climbing plants - will quickly close building construction, taking into account the characteristics of their growth. Clematis and rank wire will be needed to support their shoots.

Ivy and parthenocissus you don’t have to tie them to the supports, they cling to the rough surface of the walls with thin sucker roots. fallopia and wisteria they wrap around poles as thick as a finger or a strong wire. All vines, both annual and perennial, are distinguished by a stubborn desire to reach up.

If you need dense greenery and flowers to close and lower tier, then immediately after planting, let part of the shoots along the trellises horizontally. Then, from the axillary buds, many new shoots stretching upwards will soon appear. This method avoids the situation when the plant bushes on the crest of the wall or on the top of the support, remaining bare from below, and, in addition, stimulates the growth of numerous new shoots.

girlish grapes

Ten fastest climbing and climbing plants

Plant these plants in your garden where a natural screen is required - living wall will literally grow before your eyes.

annual creepers

Perennial creepers

Tall flowers and shrubs will also make a good living wall.

Walls as high as a person are not always needed. In small gardens, large elements quickly "eat up" the space. As an alternative, flowering shrubs and tall flowers can be planted around the seating area.

When selecting plants, consider flowering time, tillering and growth rate. Buddley David(Buddleja davidii) and American maple(Acer negundo) form tall bushes in their first year and are easily managed with pruning afterwards.

Bindweed home care

Bindweed is an elegant climbing annual plant, ideal for vertical gardening. The length of the hairless stem reaches 3 m, there are species with creeping and erect stems. The leaves are arranged alternately, broadly ovate or heart-shaped, with a pointed apex.

Flowers solitary, large, funnel-shaped. The color is blue, pink, white, purple, there are varieties with two-tone flowers, as well as terry forms. Blooms all summer until the end of the growing season.

The fruit is a box with rather large seeds. Bindweed prefers sunny areas protected from the wind with fertile, light soil. Curly species require support. Bindweed is propagated by seeds.

Sowing is carried out in the spring, seeds are planted in open land at the end of April or seedlings in March, placing several pieces in pots. It is recommended to soak the seeds before sowing. The grown seedlings are transplanted, rolling with a clod of earth.

The plant withstands spring frosts, usually the seeds do not overwinter, but there are species that give self-sowing.

Materials on Bindweed

In this section you will find posts on the care, cultivation, watering, reproduction of Bindweed. Community users share tips and secrets among themselves.

A huge number of photos. The purpose of our project is the exchange of experience so that each project participant can learn how to care for a plant at home. Register.

How to grow sunny bindweed2

I want to tell you how to grow a plant like bindweed. Bindweed grows very quickly in just a month, it will be able to cover your veranda, protecting you from the sun. It just doesn't need much care.

You only have to plant the seeds in ordinary soil and just water this plant, that's it and all the conditions for care. Of course, in the cold and rainy ...

Solar Bindweed0

Bindweed is most beautiful when it grows in the sun. Flowers bloom early in the morning and delight us with their beauty during the day, but they live only one day. The plant needs to be watered once a week, but very plentifully.

In especially hot weather, you need to water more often. Every third watering should be added complex fertilizers. Bindweed is best grown outdoors...

Bright bindweed4

Bindweed not only beautiful plant but also useful for landscaping. I had to decorate old fence- please! - beautiful and practical.

And I sowed bindweeds only once, now they bloom on their own and in the spring they sprout together on their own, you just need to weed out the unnecessary ones, otherwise it will not work. beautiful fence, but thickets. Bindweed is very...

Loach-hedge2

Loach or hedge - the decoration of your garden Who has ever seen such hedge, these charming blue gramophones, you will definitely want to plant a loach in your country house. The loach has the ability to wrap itself around trees, lattice fences.

Propagated by seeds, which are sown in spring in open ground. That's how it...

Svetlana

Use of bindweed in the garden1

The most unpretentious garden flower this is a bindweed. It is very beautiful with its bright and varied colors in the form of a large bell. With the help of this flower, you can make hedges and fences.

It will look very nice if, for example, the old dry wood they will completely braid a lot of bindweeds, especially if they are also diverse ...

Angelica

Unexpected Joy1

A few years ago, I decided to sow the overseas beauty dichondra, having seen enough pictures on the Internet in which the shoots of this bindweed hang several meters. Either the pictures were photoshopped, or I did something wrong, but the focus failed. I have grown a rather modest bush with small leaves and quite inconspicuous, inconspicuous ...

Choosing loaches for the garden

Like any diligent gardener, you, of course, try to decorate your summer cottage with decorative elements. It can be picturesque flower beds, clipped shrubs original form, decorative reservoirs and bridges.

The list of attractive decorations for giving can be continued almost endlessly - it all depends on your imagination and the ability to creatively approach the process of decorating the site. Loaches for the garden they not only have an unusual appearance, but also allow the gardener to hide resting places from prying eyes, as well as site imperfections, for example, low-key fences and various buildings. Loaches in the garden can be of a wide variety of shapes and colors, the choice is yours.

Let's look at the most popular plants: 1. Clematis- a real treat for the eyes, creates an impressive spectacle during flowering, leaving no gardener indifferent.

This is a very densely growing variety of loach, is a perennial plant with a variety of colors.2. Ipomoea purpurea or farbitis pleases the eye with white, purple, pink or purple flowers.

Such a plant can grow up to 4 meters in height in just one season, covering the support with a dense green carpet. 3. Ipomoea blue(see the right figure above) is very similar to the purple morning glory, the difference is only in the color of the flowers and the height of the plants (the blue morning glory reaches 2-3 meters in height) .4.

Ipomoea tricolor or red-blue is a rather unusual representative in the garden. A whole range of colors is presented to the gardener to choose from: from blue to red-pink tones.

From left to right: Ipomoea purple, blue and tricolor.

5. prince reaches 3 meters in height per season, and can grow even in places with a cold climate.6. Hop- it is unpretentious, remarkably grows on any soil, and also does not need top dressing and careful leaving.

Creates a whole green wall, has a beautiful decorative effect.7. decorative beans not only beautiful, but also useful. It can be eaten, and it grows very quickly. Already by mid-August, you can enjoy the harvest.

The plant is also very hardy, blooms until frost.8. honeysuckle curly looks luxurious in vertical gardening. When choosing loaches for a garden, you can be guided by the following tips: - beans, clematis and morning glory are well suited for a gazebo or wall; - fences can be decorated with hops, honeysuckle or prince; - vineyards can be grown on wooden or plastic nets, and on the fences - blackberries, which will become additional protection household plot.

Curly perennial flowers.

The main advantage of curly flowers for the garden is that they are able to decorate buildings, enliven the summer cottage, make it cozy and close to nature. Loaches in the garden are planted to decorate fences, create shady arches and pergolas.

Loaches growing around country arbors create a romantic atmosphere In order not to plant climbing plants every year, I recommend paying attention to climbing perennial flowers, especially those that are not demanding to care for. The most spectacular and rather unpretentious perennial climbing plant is clematis. They grow quickly.

They easily endure our winters, provided they are covered for the winter with covered material or cardboard boxes. Some varieties of clematis bloom in the year of planting. There are varieties of clematis that bloom on last year's branches.

Basically, flowers appear on new branches. Clematis has large large flowers that bloom in July. Clematis flowers are mostly blue, purple and white. The most spectacular - terry flowers.

Clematis are planted to create arches and pergolas. It is better to plant clematis in a well-lit place, and at the same time this place should be protected from the wind. Otherwise, when the climbing shoots begin to grow, with wind fluctuations, they may break.

The way out of this situation is to make a support from plastic mesh, clinging to which the perennial loach will grow. Clematis grows well near the chain-link mesh. They do not grow immediately, but after a few years you will get a very picturesque flowering hedge.

Some varieties of clematis need to be pruned for the winter. If your variety of perennial clematis does not require pruning - remove the whips for the winter, lay on the ground and cover.

You can cover with leaves and cardboard boxes. How to make a beautiful one for clematis, read the article Garden support for climbing clematis. Do not plant climbing roses next to clematis. Roses will grow and crush clematis. By the way, climbing or climbing roses are another curly garden flowers that look very impressive. But they require some experience in growing. First, you need to carefully choose a place for climbing roses if they are close ground water, then roses will definitely not grow. Secondly, ozam needs a lot of sun, then they are unlikely to grow around the gazebo, the gazebo still gives shade. And one more thing: the soil must be fertile, the place is protected from the wind, but not too hot, South side not suitable, southwestern is better. Therefore, as vines for the garden, I like clematis more, they are less demanding to care for. Pay attention to such curly perennial flowers as:

  • girlish grapes, especially for varieties with red decorative leaves. perennial creepers, ivy, climbing rose - unusual beautiful flower, with the disadvantage that it needs to be looked after, trimmed and covered for the winter.

tender bindweed

Bindweed an annual plant of the bindweed family. Dark green leaves, long creeping stems and large flowers, having the shape of a funnel, are very interesting and gentle. Bindweed or convolvulus in Latin means to wrap around.

Sometimes people call bindweed " beauty of the day”, because the tender bindweed blooms its flowers only during the day in clear weather. Maybe that's why, in the language of flowers, bindweed symbolizes stubbornness. Bindweed refers to grassy vines.

The bindweed is native to the southern European regions. There are about 250 species in the genus. In the first half of the 17th century, bindweed began to be cultivated and 14 species were bred. In horticulture common bindweed tricolor.

Bindweed tricolor- an annual ground cover plant, the height of which can be 15-20 cm. It has a branching stem that creeps along the ground, if there is a support, it curls very well, non-petiolate regular leaves of a linear-lanceolate shape, slightly pointed at the end and without pubescence.

At the end of the stems on thin pedicels, collected in several pieces, there are large flowers 4 cm in diameter. Corollas of flowers, funnel-shaped, have a tricolor color.

Yellow pharynx, in the middle the line of the limb of a white color, diverging to the side with stripes, the edges of the limb of a blue, pink, light blue, violet, purple color. With outside five-pronged calyx covered with few hairs.

Blooms in July until the end of September. The flowers open in sunny weather, and in gloomy rainy weather they don't open at all. After flowering, in place of flowers, dry two-celled boxes are formed, in which 2 seeds are located.

Bindweed is not whimsical photophilous plant, so it must be planted in open sunny places, but it blooms well and grows in partial shade. Bindweed can grow on any soil with a loose structure containing lime, prefers loam. Bindweed requires intensive watering in hot weather and during flowering, especially for young plants. After watering, do not forget to loosen the soil. Before planting seeds, the soil is fertilized with complete mineral fertilizers, and 2-3 top dressings can be done for the entire season, which will increase the duration and abundance of flowering. Bindweed is propagated by seeds.

They can be sown in May in pre-fertilized open ground. Nests are made at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, in which 3-4 seeds are placed. Shoots appear in 10-14 days.

The plant blooms in the second half of July. In order for the bindweed to bloom earlier, you can grow seedlings. Bindweed does not tolerate transplantation, so it is better then to plant seeds for seedlings, and peat pots, so that later they can be immediately buried in the ground in a permanent place. Bindweed is used as a climbing plant for vertical decoration, terraces, arbors, fences, outbuildings.

Bindweed is also grown in balcony and window boxes, in hanging baskets, planters. Flowers long time time pleases us with the riot of their colors. Having picked up the necessary flowers, you can admire this beauty all season long. Do you want a beautiful and original flower garden?

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Perennial Loaches for the Garden

How pleasant it is to sit in a shady gazebo entwined with grapes or ivy, admire the “gramophones” of morning glory or sweet peas climbing onto the veranda, and know that your privacy is reliably protected from prying eyes by a hedge of honeysuckle or hops. Climbing plants are ready to decorate any garden and emphasize its individuality. A beautiful element landscape design rightfully considered vertical gardening that have been in vogue since the Baroque era.

Perennial Loaches for the Garden are able to revive and refresh even the most boring places of your site in a short time. Thanks to their decorative properties, rapid growth and unpretentiousness, they rightfully deserve the love and recognition of many gardeners.

The choice depends on the purpose

From a wide range of climbing plants, presented in stores and markets, just run up your eyes. Therefore, first you need to decide on the purpose of their acquisition. These can be plants for decorating gazebos, house walls, hedges, hanging containers...

When choosing, you must take into account the characteristics of your site: climate, soil type, degree of illumination, etc. Exotic creepers are suitable only for the most patient and diligent gardeners, because they have a capricious disposition! Usually, creepers are usually divided into climbing, climbing and clinging.

But there is also a classification according to their functional characteristics. Some of the most popular types of vines can be divided into three groups.1. fast growing plants able to colonize large space: honeysuckle-capricole, clematis, wild grapes, akebia.2.

Summer creepers that can wrap around columns and cover walls with a beautiful carpet: sweet pea, nasturtium, common ivy, creeping kobe, morning glory, thunbergia.3. Ground cover vines oriented to 4 cardinal directions:

  • for the north: ivy, hybrid clematis and others; for the south: nasturtium, honeysuckle, ipomoea "Morning Glori"; for the east: liana round tree pliers, girlish grapes, various types of weaving roses; for the west: clematis Montana, hops, wisteria.

The most unpretentious loaches include girlish grapes, actinidia, lemongrass, kampsis, Dahurian moonseed, tecomu.

Don't forget the humus!

When choosing a planting site, it is important not to make a mistake, as it affects the development of the plant. Loaches should not be planted on the corner of a building. The distance from it must be at least 90 cm.

Because of the vines growing close to the wall, fungi can quickly develop, and the structure will begin to rot. The gap between the wall should be from 15 to 30 cm. For the same reason, you should not plant loaches near downpipes or next to any type of sewer.

Invasive plants are best kept away from vines. When preparing the soil for planting loaches, it is necessary to flavor it with a sufficient amount of humus. It retains water well and does not allow the soil to dry out quickly.

The hole for the creeper should be spacious enough (60x60x60 cm) and contain drainage, for example, from pieces of brick. For the speedy growth of loaches, the soil is fertilized organic fertilizers or compost. Further, the plants are fed regularly.

But the frequency, type and amount of fertilizer for each type of loach is selected individually.

Need support and care

Almost any liana needs good support. Suitable as it wooden lattices, ladders, hedges, pergolas, ropes and arches. It is important to choose from them what will be convenient for your vine and appropriate within your landscape design.

Materials for support should be selected strong and not subject to erosion or stretching. Avoid freshly painted surfaces, then the plant will breathe easier. You need to install the support carefully, trying not to damage the root of the vine. In the first week, the loaches are thirsty.

And while the plant has not taken root properly, it must be regularly watered and the soil loosened. But excess moisture for vines is detrimental. Periodic haircuts are useful for their lush hairstyles, otherwise any support may not withstand under their dense vegetation.

Young shoots are pruned in spring, and older ones - at the end of their flowering. It is necessary to take into account the aggressiveness of some vines: they quickly capture the nearby territory, oppressing other plants on the site.

Easily propagated and grow quickly

Largely perennial garden loaches easily multiply and within 2 - 3 years are able to completely cover the walls of 1 - 2-storey buildings. They are fairly cold hardy. They tolerate temperature changes and lack of light well.

Many creepers are distinguished by decorative flowers, leaves and fruits, strength and elasticity of shoots. The fruits of some loaches are nutritious and medicinal properties: grapes, lemongrass, blackberry, actinidia and others. For open terraces, balconies and loggias more suitable annual plants because perennial loaches die off in autumn.

This plant also has many other names - the Spanish flag, bladed mine, lobata mine, bladed kvamoklit, etc. The origin of the liana is tropical, in its homeland it is a perennial, but in our climate its cultivation is possible only as an annual plant.

plant description

The stem of the plant is strong, twisting, reddish in color. Grows up to three meters in length. The leaves are three-lobed, heart-shaped, near each leaf there are also three thin stipules.

Liana flowers are drop-shaped up to 2 cm long, collected in spike-shaped unilateral inflorescences 15-25 cm long. The peculiarity of the inflorescences is that at first glance they are closed all the time. The flowers are initially red, which then changes to orange, and by the end of flowering the flower becomes a hue from lemon yellow to creamy white. The flowering of the plant lasts from the end of July until the beginning of frost, that is, more than two months.

Plant appearance

Star bindweed is interesting in that on the same plant there are flowers with different shades of petals at the same time. Separately, this is not so attractive, but when they are together, a truly rare pattern is created in the flower bed. Nothing like it and changing every day.

Many gardeners appreciate it for the fact that during flowering, bindweed creates a whole carpet of leaves and flowers, the density of this living cover is such that under it it is impossible to even see the trellises or the walls of the gazebo. At the same time, the plant does not really need a garter. Unless at the beginning, and then the flexibility of the shoots allows the bindweed to climb any support.

There are few varieties of bindweed, more precisely, only one. Therefore, if you hear that there is such and such a variety of star bindweed for sale exotic creepers, then keep in mind that you are simply being deceived. Also, as the name of the variety, sellers, unknowingly or deliberately deceiving buyers, may use other names of the plant that were named above.

Seed preparation and planting

There are two ways to plant seeds: directly in open ground or planting to obtain seedlings. In the first case, the flowering of the plant begins traditionally for our latitudes - from the end of July. In the second, the beginning of flowering comes much earlier, and you can admire this process much longer, because it will also end with the arrival of frost.

  • preparation of seeds for planting in the first case is that they are soaked in a warm howl for a day. Seeds that float to the surface of the water during this procedure are unsuitable for planting, so they can be safely thrown away. After soaking, the seeds can be planted in the ground, this is usually done at the end of April. After the earth warms up well. It is advisable to cover the plantings with a covering material in order to avoid frost damage, the latter is recommended to be removed as soon as this threat ceases to be relevant. Usually, the first shoots appear a week after planting. As the seedlings grow, they must be thinned out, leaving a distance of about 20-25 cm between them, this is enough for further normal growth;
  • the second way is growing through seedlings. Way in our latitudes due to climatic features considered more preferable than the first. The beginning of seed preparation is similar to the first - we soak them in warm water for a day, we also remove the emerging ones, the rest must be planted in separate pots. We put 1-2 seeds in each container. We put the pots in the room where it is necessary to maintain average temperature at 20 degrees and after 10-14 days you can observe the first shoots. We plant in open ground in May, the plant must be removed from the pot without damaging earthen clod on the roots, and in this form we place it in the landing hole. We leave a distance of 50-60 cm between the pits.

seedling material

Many gardeners disinfect and disinfect seeds before planting, for this they are placed either in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in a fungicide solution. It is enough to support the seeds in such a solution for a couple of hours before planting in the ground and the plant's immunity to various pests and diseases will be higher.

The soil can be used ordinary, dug out of your garden. But a purchased specialized one is best, or cook it yourself. To do this, mix in equal proportions humus, peat and sand.

Care

Very simple, the plant is not particularly demanding on it, so even a novice gardener can easily grow it. But still, we’ll tell you what a plant may need during growth and flowering.

  • firstly, the tropical origin provides that the star bindweed adores the sun. Therefore, we plant it only in the sun, no shade. The soil needs to be neutral - loam, sandy loamy soil is perfect for these purposes. The plant does not care about summer heat, direct Sun rays do not provide any negative impact for his growth. But still, regular watering is indispensable here, in this case the flowering will be more magnificent. But you should know that with excessive abundant watering there will be an increase in deciduous mass, but flowering will, alas, be weak. Or it won't exist at all;
  • secondly, as a top dressing should be used better fertilizer organic origin, bindweed somehow "negatively" refers to mineral supplements. And from organic it is best to use rotted compost, peat and wood ash. Ash is best applied at the beginning of formation flower buds- they will be more magnificent and plentiful;

organic fertilizer

  • and thirdly, it is necessary to constantly loosen the soil after each watering or past rain. Do not forget to constantly remove weeds, but if you are reluctant to bother with weeding, then you can mulch the earth. This step will solve several problems at once: cope with weeds, keep moisture in the soil.

The care task is made much easier by the fact that in the case of star bindweed, dried inflorescences from the plant do not need to be removed.

Bindweed needs to be indicated in the direction in which his creepers should crawl. Otherwise, instead of an even flower carpet, you can get a chaotic heap with a bias in one direction. In addition, excessive density begins to interfere with neighboring plants, so you still have to take care of pruning the bindweed.

Insecticide

The plant shows striking resistance to various diseases and pests. For example, he can get sick only if there is a plant affected by the disease in the neighborhood. The treatment is simple - removal of the affected parts of the plant and treatment with insecticidal preparations. Also, the plant can be treated with them as a prophylactic.

Bindweed after flowering

In the region of the Urals, Siberia and other areas with a cold climate, star bindweed is grown as an annual plant. Therefore, after flowering, withered leaves and inflorescences are recommended to be removed. If the flowering period has not yet been exhausted, and the weather is warm, then this will prolong the flowering of the plant. After the first severe frost, the vine is recommended to be removed completely.

It makes no sense to dig up rhizomes, as well as to cover, the plant cannot withstand cold winters. Self-sowing also breeds poorly. In this case, it is recommended to collect the seeds, and on next year plant seedlings. Given that hybrid varieties star loach does not exist, it is perfectly propagated by seeds, without compromising the quality of seedlings and subsequent plantings.

You can collect seeds in August-September, by which time they have time to ripen. Earlier collections will not provide good seed germination. Also, the seed material should be dried in the sun, stored in paper envelopes in a dry place. AT southern regions the plant winters well and reproduces well by self-sowing.

If the crops begin to thin out, then seeds can be harvested from autumn, and in early spring, simply sow them on the existing garden bed.

How to breed a plant

This is not difficult, because the roots of the plant simply freeze in winter frosts and in the spring they can be easily removed after digging the earth. Self-seeding may be difficult, with the further development of an ornamental plant into a weed. But if autumn is time to collect seed pods, then this can be avoided.

Video

For more useful details about growing star bindweed, see the video

Conclusion

As you can see friends landing this exotic plant tropics is not such a difficult task, as is the subsequent care. But you will get the original and beautiful decoration your garden, gazebos.

The name "bindweed" is usually associated with climbing plants, and more often with field bindweed - a weed that almost everyone had to fight on their site. Oddly enough, there are non-curly garden molds of this plant, very similar to the well-known climbing morning glory in the culture.

Rod Bindweed(Convolvulus) has more than 250 species of both climbing and non-climbing annuals and perennials. All of them are united by a common feature - the presence of funnel-shaped flowers, acquiring from various kinds and varieties of lilac, blue, blue, crimson, pink or white shades. They bloom early in the morning for only one day, but this does not affect the decorativeness of plants - abundant flowering successive flowers continue all summer.

In culture, two garden forms of bindweed are grown: tricolor bindweed, or small bindweed (Convolvulus tricolor) and Mauritanian bindweed (Convolvulus mauritanicus). These annual plants of the bindweed family are in fact non-climbing, densely flowering shrubs 20–45 cm high. They are most often planted to decorate balconies in pots or hanging baskets, although they can also be used as ground cover plants in mixborders, discounts, on rocky hills. Flexible shoots of Mauritanian bindweed, covered with delicate lilac flowers, form lush cascades when grown in containers and blend perfectly with others. ampelous plants. Large (up to 5 cm) flowers of tricolor bindweed can serve as an excellent background for other decorative, not so abundantly flowering plants. Flower shops usually sell mixtures of seeds of several varieties of bindweed tricolor, which should also be taken into account when planting it: bright carpet crimson, blue and pink flowers with a golden center can be an excellent center of the composition.

Bindweed garden perennial

For planting bindweed on the site, you should choose brightly lit places with any permeable garden soil. In partial shade, the plant will also be able to grow, but it will bloom more abundantly in the sun. Bindweed seeds can be sown in April - May immediately in open ground or in March for growing seedlings. Before planting, for better germination, they are soaked in water for a day.

Peat (2 - 3 kg / sq.m) is introduced into well-loosened soil in the garden plot in April - May, shallow grooves are made and watered. Seeds are not sown very densely in the grooves, sprinkled with loose earth on top and lightly tamped. The bed is covered with a covering material and it is watered from a watering can 2 times a week. At favorable conditions shoots appear within a week. When the danger of return frosts has passed, the shelter is removed and seedlings are thinned out (large ones are transplanted), leaving a distance of 20–25 cm between plants. Later, weeds are destroyed in the garden, watering is carried out as
soil drying out. It should be noted that with an excess of moisture, the tricolor bindweed grows well, but it will bloom weakly, and the fall of the buds and leaves of the Mauritanian bindweed may indicate insufficient watering. Before flowering, during the budding period, wood ash can be scattered between the bushes, and then once a month, add complex water to the water for irrigation. mineral fertilizer(15 g per bucket of water). It is not recommended to fertilize the bindweed excessively: the plant branches well from this, but may not bloom at all. Flowering begins in June and continues until mid-September. In place of faded inflorescences, fruit-boxes with seeds are formed, which should be collected for further reproduction, although bindweed can give excellent self-seeding.

Bindweed garden perennial fast growing

To get an early flowering bindweed on a balcony or garden plot, the seeds are sown in pots in March. Prepare the soil by mixing 1/3 peat, 2/3 fertile soil and a small amount of sand. Among the seeds soaked for a day, hatched seeds are selected and sown in shallow containers at a distance of at least 10 cm from one another, or in different pots so that the growing bindweeds do not get tangled with each other. At a temperature of 18 - 20 ° C and regular watering, shoots will appear in 2 weeks. They are not watered too abundantly, adding mineral fertilizer to the water every 15 days. In May, bindweed seedlings are determined on a plot for a permanent place, leaving a distance of 20 - 25 cm between planted plants.

During the cultivation of bindweed, care must be taken that the shoots and leaf plates are not covered rusty spots. When they appear, treatment with fungicidal preparations should be carried out.

garden bindweed known as unpretentious plant and at good care and planting in lightly fertilized soil, it can suddenly grow to unusual sizes, turning into a flowering mound for the whole summer. Decorate your balcony, stairs or path to the garden with these plants, and you will never get bored with such a neighborhood.