Today I will venture to disassemble the master class from one French site. Unfortunately, the original did not have verbal accompaniment, so everything was done with my own guesses and knowledge on this issue lying around in my head.

So what will we end up with? This. Enough stylish table made in wood and leather. and not just a table, but a folding table.

1. So, the first photo. Cut out the main shape for our... uh, maybe we should call these legs. In general, cut out the shape for the legs of the table. The photo shows one thick layer, but this is not gluing and not thick cardboard, as it might seem at first glance. it's just that the author apparently cut all 6 supports (3 for one side and 3 for the other) in one go. This is very reasonable, because with this approach, the tol will be more symmetrical and, hopefully (), will not stagger.

2. Now we collect each support. We start from the middle, from the middle bar. When making groove cuts, it is best to make them at the same time on the middle bar for the second support. You should get something like this:

3. Now we fill the grooves with mates. The width of all inserts should be equal, and the height should correspond to the height of each specific element to which they are attached (well, I think this is quite clear from the photo).
I want to say that the exact dimensions of the table are unknown, I don’t think it’s big, most likely it’s something like coffee table, but the same design can be extrapolated to a more serious subject, for example, to make a table for the living room. Why not? So you will have to set the width and height of all the details yourself in accordance with the overall scale.

To strengthen the joints, we use quick-drying glue - a moment or, even better, we use a glue gun for this.

4. Using the same glue gun, glue the side parts of the sheets to the main central part of each support on the sides. As you can see, the table part is already quite stable)). Here in this photo it is not yet visible (it will be noticeable in the next ones) that the author, when gluing the side support into one whole, strengthened the joints by additionally gluing the edges of the "lattice" in pieces, so it turned out that the constituent elements of the side supports seem to consist of a double sheet.

Remember that there should be two such pieces.

5. Only on last photo we have not closed the outer sides. On the next photo they are already neatly covered with cardboard plates. The author omitted this procedure in his photo-MK, but there is nothing particularly complicated here. We cut out a cardboard rectangle along the width of the side support, slightly bend it, winding it, for example, on a stick to give it a curved shape, and attach it to the side parts of the supports with a glue gun. You can try sticking it all in one layer, bending it accordingly. But the author, and this is really more convenient, cut the rectangle into two parts and pasted them joint-to-joint separately. In this photo, we already have two supports with sidewalls and the bottom of the table is also glued here: a thick layer is glued to the lower parts of the supports (you can pre-glue two sheets).



6. Now, on the basis of the glued bottom, we make the following grid:

Inserts in the grooves in the central part are not needed yet, just cut them out, try them on and put them aside. and we cover the grid to the right and left of the central part, again with layers of cardboard glued with a glue gun.



7. It is not visible in the next photo, however, a grating (stiffening ribs) should again go on top of the first layer. they must be very carefully adjusted so that they are almost flush with the upper edge of the oval cutout in the side supports, so that the layer laid on top lies tightly on the stiffeners themselves and is glued to this very upper edge of the oval cutout. In general, see the photo:

Yes, and do not forget about the grooves in the central part. Now they can be filled.

At the same time, we finished the inner sidewalls of the table supports. As you can see, I’ll lower it and everything is pasted over from the inside.



8. Now drawers. How to make them, I think, is quite clearly visible in the photo. It's all about measurement accuracy. The only reminder is that we make the front "lid-wall" from two layers (although it would be possible to strengthen the entire box in a similar way ..)









But such partitions not only organize the space inside the box, but also strengthen it.

9. The next stage. Now back to the top again. On the surface of the sheets on both sides of the central part, we again glue the stiffeners, measuring them so that they are flush with the common surface of the side supports. At the same time, we close the side "insides" of the table with sheets.

10. Now what is our countertop. We also remember that our table is folding.
The tabletop consists of a lower thick sheet (two sheets can be glued together), the perimeter of which is equal to the perimeter of the table surface. the top cover sheet is the same. Two sidewalls are sealed tightly with narrow strips. in the end the table looks like this:

But the internal structure is like this:

These elements are removed from the sides of the table and folded, forming a small addition:



11. Decorating. Honestly, I didn’t really understand what exactly the author did. If anyone thinks of it - write.

I tend to believe that the alignment went with ordinary kraft paper, then it was painted on top with several layers of paint, sanded to get rid of the joints (yes, all joints should not be pasted over with paper tape). The outer lids of the drawers and the tabletop are finished with leather-look material. This can be obtained in needlework stores for book binding) and in the construction and wallpaper departments there should be something similar. The top is dark lacquer.