Oven plaster (30 photos): the secret of professional finishing. What is plaster and how to work with it? Rough plaster

Modern technologies make it possible to build a house without using plaster at all. However, it still remains a popular finishing method. Moreover, decorative plasters are gaining more and more popularity. They are already used not only on stone walls, but also on light frame partitions. In our material, we talk about everything that a future homeowner needs to know about plastering.

Why is she?

With the help of plaster, you can perform various tasks.

1. Protection of walls from atmospheric moisture and overheating in the sun. It is for this purpose that plaster was invented in ancient times in India and the countries of the Middle East. At that time, this was relevant because bricks made of raw clay were used in the walls. With the spread of baked bricks, the need for additional protection dropped. However, in the 21st century, the protective function of plaster is again in demand. It is used, for example, on facades frame buildings sheathed wood boards. The composition of such plasters includes polymers that provide elasticity even after drying. Plaster also plays a protective role on walls made of aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks.

2. Alignment of walls and corners. Speaking of construction own house, then it is desirable to minimize the alignment of the walls with plaster here. It will be cheaper and faster to use a brick with good geometry and to involve a qualified bricklayer to remove the corners. But if the walls are being built in an emergency mode, then you have to level the flaws with the rule.

3. Surface preparation for ceramic tiles. Yes, sometimes tiles are glued directly to brick walls. But the result is unlikely to please the zealous summer resident. There is an overspending of glue, a delay in the timing of work and not the best appearance. The problem is that thick layer tile adhesive “floats” along with the tile: irregularities appear on the already leveled row as it sets. So best foundation for tiles, this is a smoothly plastered wall. Moreover, even the most expensive plaster is cheaper than tile adhesive.

4. Warming of external walls. For this, plaster mortars with porous fillers are used. The most common are perlite and vermiculite. Some developers with the help of "warm plaster" reach the norm of the calculated thermal conductivity of the wall. It is hardly worth following this example if there is no certainty that the plaster layer will turn out to be of the same thickness along the entire contour. The energy-saving effect of "warm plaster" should rather be assessed as additional measure for a very cold winter.

5. Decorative effect. Decorative plasters are used both indoors and on the facade. Their peculiarity is that you can create a unique texture on the wall. One of the most popular decorative effects on the plaster - "bark beetle".

In expensive interiors, Venetian plaster is often used. This is the opposite of the deliberately rude "bark beetle". The glossy translucent surface layer creates excellent conditions for the play of light and color.

Types of plaster

Plaster solutions can be classified according to a variety of parameters. But we will leave scientific research aside and consider the issue in an everyday way. Let's just analyze the most popular types of plasters.

1. Cement-sand mortar. It is used for leveling walls and as a base for tiles for indoor and outdoor use. Cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:4 or 1:5 by volume. To make the plaster dense and durable, the components are sifted through a fine sieve with a cell of 1-2 mm. If you do not sift, then creating, if necessary, a thin layer of plaster (less than a centimeter) will be problematic. The plaster will peel off.

Instead of water for mixing, it is better to use milk of lime. To do this, lime is diluted in water, according to the instructions on the package. Lime gives the solution viscosity. To improve the adhesion of the solution to the wall, some craftsmen add PVA glue to it. Approximately 10 grams per 5 liters of water. On sale there are special plasticizers for plaster compositions. They replace both lime and glue at once.

You can buy a ready-made mixture in bags, and then you don’t have to bother with sifting the ingredients and measuring the proportions. But there is a chance that the manufacturer's recipe will not satisfy you. Especially when it comes to inexpensive brands.

If you do not have confidence in the sufficient vapor permeability of home-made cement plaster, then it is better not to use it for the exterior of heated buildings.

2. Plasters for foam concrete walls. The problem of vapor permeability for foam concrete is even more relevant than for bricks. Therefore, manufacturers are developing a special formulation of plaster solutions for foam concrete.

If the house is supposed to be plastered from the inside and outside, then it is better to take the mixture for foam concrete from famous brand. Moreover, inside its layer should be twice as thick as outside. This technique will ensure that you do not "ban" moisture in the wall.

3. Gypsum plaster. It is applied to finishing of walls and ceilings in dry rooms. In theory, it can be made from building plaster but no one does that anymore. Ready mix is bought in bags. The gypsum in it is sufficiently crushed, and it contains polymer additives. They make the mortar sticky and the finished coating resistant to cracking.

Gypsum plaster, made according to modern recipes, can be applied to the walls in a thick layer, it also sticks to the ceiling. Note: gypsum plaster from different batches can vary greatly in shade - from pink to brown.

4. Mineral decorative plaster with the effect of "bark beetle". Sold in bags as a dry mix. In addition to sand, cement and polymer additives, it contains round stones with a diameter of several millimeters, which help to create decorative grooves. It is called mineral because of its composition, most of which is given to sand. It is applied on a leveling layer of sand-cement plaster. Suitable for indoor and outdoor work.

5. Acrylic decorative plaster. Sold as a ready-to-use paste. The binder is acrylic-based polymers. The filler can be sand and stone chips in various ratios. Sand with a small amount of large pebbles gives the effect of "bark beetle". Homogeneous pebbles with a diameter of 2-3 mm create an "orange peel". Venetian plaster contains fine marble powder. The final pattern is created during application.

The basis for decorative acrylic plaster should be:
- homogeneous,
- color matched
- smooth,
- dry and clean.

Under these requirements, a brick wall plastered with sand cement, and a light plasterboard partition can be suitable.

To prepare drywall partition To apply acrylic plaster, you need to do this:
- seal the joints between the sheets using a special gypsum putty and reinforcing tape;
- cover the surface with a uniform color filler based on white cement with a reinforcing mesh and prime.

Walls made of OSB or DSP are not allowed to be putty. If the plaster is light, then the surface can be prepared with white water-based paint. If the surface is dark, then you should do acrylic primer. Please note that the seams between OSB or DSP sheets will show up over time, no matter how elastic the plaster is. Therefore, in the design of the wall, decorative overlays on the seams, for example, from wooden slats, should immediately be provided.

Operating procedure

Let's take an example of how to level a wall with cement or gypsum plaster, and then apply decorative coating"under the bark beetle".

So, step by step.

1. We install stainless steel beacons. For this, it is better for beginners to use special plastic clips. They are attached to the wall with dowels and screws.

We put two extreme lighthouses at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the corner. The beacons that will be between them are located with an arbitrary step. But still we advise you to keep a distance of no more than 1.4 meters. So it is more convenient to work with a one and a half meter rule.

All beacons should be in the same plane, and therefore adjust the extreme lines according to the level. Then a thread is pulled between them. All intermediate beacons are aligned along the thread.

2. We prime the wall to reduce its moisture absorption. We don't want the wall to immediately draw the moisture out of the fresh plaster before it ages. The choice of primer depends on the type of surface. It is enough to pour water over a wall made of rubble bricks with unfilled seams. Red facing masonry with embroidered seams is best treated with an acrylic primer. For "silicate", "concrete contact" is suitable. This is a mixture of polymers with coarse sand. So the plaster will adhere better.

3. We apply the first layer of plaster. This process is also called "splattering". To do this, the solution is made quite liquid, similar in consistency to sour cream. It is thrown with force onto the wall with the help of a ladle. The task of the first layer is to cling to the wall as best as possible. To do this, the solution must fill all the bumps.

4. After the first layer has dried apply a leveling layer at the level of the beacons. If it turns out to be more than 2.5 centimeters, then it is better to do it in two steps. It is more convenient to work together. One person applies the solution to the wall with a spatula or trowel, the second one smooths it out with a rule. Do not forget to wipe the rule often with a wet cloth so that the surface is smooth.

5. We are waiting for the plaster to dry and evaluate the result. Small flaws can be polished. To do this, use a special board with a fixed on it sandpaper or grinder.

6. We are waiting for the complete drying of the plaster. It all depends on the weather here. Guaranteed time - 4 weeks. Now everything is ready for applying the decorative coating.

We will apply the popular "bark beetle". Its specificity lies in the fact that the base will be visible in the grooves. But if it shines through from below gray plaster, it will turn out ugly. Therefore, you need to think in advance what colors to take. The "base" may differ from the main color of the plaster, but must be in harmony with it. If the plastered wall is planned to be painted, then it is better to make the “base” white, that is, the same as the plaster itself. This is how we will do it.

1. We cover floors, doors, etc. with protective material.
2. We cover the wall with acrylic primer type ST 16 or acrylic water-based paint white. We are waiting for drying.
3. Stir well acrylic plaster in the bucket and get to work.
4. With a large rectangular trowel, apply the paste to the wall. There is no need to make long smearing movements. The movements are short, pressing, directed strictly from the bottom up. With force we press the solution to the wall. Periodically moisten the trowel with water. The thickness of the layer is set by the size of the filler stones. Thus, we cover the entire wall with mortar from corner to corner. You can't stop.
5. After about five minutes, the mortar on the wall will begin to set and stop sticking to the fingers and trowel. So, it's time to form a pattern. We take a polyurethane grater in our hands and make light short vertical movements along the wall with it. The pressure is minimal. It is not our task to tear off the newly applied plaster. The grater should pick up only the pebbles in the paste. When moving, they leave grooves behind them. This is the bark beetle pattern.
6. Sometimes a fringe is obtained along the grooves. It can be pressed down with a damp sponge for washing dishes.
7. The next day - painting the wall. Instead of paint or over it, you can use a special transparent varnish. The lacquered surface is less dirty and easier to clean.

Good luck with your work and may the repair be completed quickly!

Do-it-yourself wall plastering is recommended only for those home craftsmen who have experience in finishing works. In the absence of such experience, one should choose small plot walls or take a sheet of drywall and practice on it. If the result is far from desired, it is better not to try to save money, but immediately contact a construction company. Others are advised to follow the instructions provided.

Wall plastering can be carried out in two ways. In the first case, the solution is simply applied to the walls, and then leveled with a rule. In the second, before plastering the walls, paint beacons are installed or threads are pulled to indicate the level. This operation is required only in case of very uneven walls. These two methods of wall plastering are considered the main ones, but each master can make small adjustments to the technology.

Process features

Depending on the material from which the walls were made for plaster, as well as on their location (outside or inside the building), different plaster mixes and application techniques. Before you plaster the walls with gypsum plaster or other composition, you need to know some of the nuances of finishing various bases.

brick walls

Such structures are usually finished with cement-based plasters. In some cases, a little lime is added to them to increase the plasticity and moisture resistance of the material. The thickness of the plaster layer on brick walls should not exceed 3 cm. It is also recommended to use a reinforcing net to strengthen the layer.

When finishing a brick wall, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh to strengthen the plaster layer

If it's about facing brick, it is quite difficult to work with it. Its surface is very smooth, so the solution can fall off even if a reinforcing mesh is used. Such material must first be impregnated with special primers, only after that proceed with the finishing.

concrete walls

Smooth surfaces of this type are pre-treated with primers containing quartz sand or flour. This material increases adhesion and provides a tighter contact of the plaster with the wall. To finish such surfaces, cement-based plasters are used, to which a little gypsum or lime-gypsum mixtures are added. For rough concrete walls, ordinary cement plasters without additional components are sufficient. The main thing is to treat them with "Betonkontakt" before plastering the surface yourself.

Concrete walls are recommended to be treated with a primer "betonkontakt"

Aerated concrete walls

If the building was erected or insulated with gas or foam blocks, then they will be quick and easy. At the preliminary stage, it will only be necessary to treat the walls with deep penetration impregnation. Such surfaces can be plastered with concrete or lime mortars.

On a note! At the moment, hardware stores offer a wide range of plasters suitable for certain surfaces and operating conditions. Manufacturers indicate the proportions in which the mixtures need to be diluted, and give various recommendations for use, so there will be no problems with the choice.

Necessary tools and materials

To plaster a wall, stock up on the following: consumables and tools:

mortar, primer (acrylic or "Betonkontakt"), putty;
painting beacons, self-tapping screws, dowels;
screwdriver, hammer, metal shears or grinder;
perforator with a set of drills and a mixer nozzle, a mixing container;
building level, plumb line, tape measure;
thread, marker or pencil;
spatulas (wide and narrow), brush or roller, usually stroked.

In addition, you need to take care of work clothes, protective gloves and a hat. The above list is quite large, but the main ones here are a puncher and a set of drills, everything else is not very expensive.

Plaster work

There are several stages of wall plastering. Only with full observance of each of them can you get quality coating, which will serve long years.

Preparatory stage

Plastering walls with your own hands requires careful preparation.

First of all, you should get rid of the old coating. It is necessary to remove paint, wallpaper or decorative plaster. The starting layer of plaster can only be left if it is strong, otherwise it will also be knocked down.
After that, you need to tap the entire surface of the wall with a hammer to identify weaknesses that are sealed with putty or cement-sand mortar.
Metal elements that can be obtained are removed from the wall (these can be nails, self-tapping screws, and so on), and the reinforcement is cut with a grinder and treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
Before plastering, furniture and other surfaces are also covered with a film.

Preparatory work before plastering

Marking

First you need to check the walls with a building level and find out the deviation, for this you need to apply it to different parts surfaces horizontally and vertically. After that, you need to find all the bumps and depressions, applying the rule to the wall. Mark these defects with a marker or pencil. If the deviations are more than 3 cm, it is necessary to remove the bumps with a grinder, and fill the cavities with putty.

Now you can proceed directly to the marking under the paint beacons. You should start from the corners of the room, stepping back 30 cm from them and drawing straight vertical lines from ceiling to floor. Then step back 160 cm from the drawn line and draw the next one, and so on until the end of the wall. After that, you need to decide on the length of the beacons. In this case, it should be taken into account that you should retreat 15 cm from the floor and ceiling and mark these points. Holes are drilled at the points and dowels with self-tapping screws are installed.

Marking rules for plaster beacons

Then pull the cord from corner to corner horizontally - near the ceiling and floor. The result should be two parallel lines. The cord will cross the rest of the vertical lines, marks should be made at the intersections, holes should be drilled and dowels should be installed without self-tapping screws. The result should be two rows of holes running exactly in the same line.

Primer

This stage is mandatory, since the duration of the operation of the future surface depends on it. The primer increases the adhesion of the wall, so the plaster will hold better and longer on it, in addition, primers can serve as antiseptics, improve surface ventilation and serve to remove dust. Deeply penetrating compounds are used when finishing brick walls or surfaces made of cellular concrete; for smooth ones, you can get by with Betonkontakt.

The selected primer is poured into a paint container, and a roller or brush is dipped into it, then the tool is pressed against a special surface on the container and the entire area is treated. After applying the first layer, you need to wait about 2-3 hours, then repeat the procedure, and leave the walls to dry for 10-12 hours.

The priming process improves the adhesion of the plaster to the wall, which means that the coating will last much longer.

Beacons are installed using the following technology:

First, the upper self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes, after which a rule is attached to one of them and it is checked how deeply the lower self-tapping screw needs to be screwed in so that a straight vertical line forms between their caps. This can also be checked by making a plumb line from the top screw. Thus, all fasteners are checked and adjusted.
Then you need to stretch two diagonal lines between the caps of the fasteners, then put a beacon under them and draw it to check if the beacons will subsequently protrude. If the product catches the thread, you need to double-check the level of the screws. Next, pull the cord between the upper and lower fasteners and also check them with a beacon.
Now you need to calculate the distance between the upper and lower dowels and cut off the beacon profile so that it recedes 5 cm on each side.
After that, prepare a little plaster according to the recipe given by the manufacturer on the package.
Then they collect the solution and apply it to the wall along a vertical line, after which they take the cut off beacon and press it into the solution so that it is at the same level as the caps of the screws. This operation is best done with a partner in order to simultaneously press the beacon from above and below.
At the end, you need to check the correct level and remove the screws from the wall.
Thus, profiles should be installed along all marking lines and the mixture should be allowed to harden.

VIDEO FOR A BEGINNER: preparing walls for plastering and installing sinks

Let's talk about how to properly apply the plaster mortar.

Wall plaster

Consider applying the material to the wall using the example of a gypsum composition.

Areas in the corners, near the floor under the ceiling remain unprocessed. The technology of gypsum plaster walls implies their finishing after the main area has dried.

Making corners and squares near the floor and ceiling

The application of gypsum plaster to these areas is carried out very quickly. It is recommended to start from the ceiling. Before applying the plaster to the remaining surfaces, again prepare a solution of the same consistency as for the main area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. A solution is collected on narrow spatulas and gently stretched. If you get a small overlap - it's okay, it can then be sanded with sandpaper. In the same way trim the area near the floor.

The plastered wall element is also leveled as a rule, cutting off excess material. The corners are made using the same technology, but the perpendicularity of the walls is constantly checked with a square. Instead of lighthouses, the finished surface of the wall now serves as a guide.

Checking the perpendicularity of the walls on the square

At the end, you need to check the surface for cracks, if any appear, they should be repaired liquid solution and level it with a rule. You also need to check the coverage with a level, if there are differences of more than 1 mm, they are removed with the sharp edge of the trowel.

After that, beacons are removed from the wall, and the resulting strobes are sealed with mortar, the plastered area is leveled. Then the seized surface is treated with sandpaper. Plastering with gypsum plaster does not require finishing.

This completes the gypsum plaster. It remains only to wait for the coating to harden, after which it can be operated. Required time specified by the manufacturer.

Plastering walls is one of the stages of repairing premises. Application of the mixture may be necessary in a new building with bare load-bearing structures or in old houses with uneven or dilapidated walls.

For non-professionals, the question often arises, which mixture to choose and how to apply it correctly, for this you need to know the features of the materials different types and their scope. If a beginner takes up the work, then you should start with the basics, with what plaster is, what compositions are there, whether you can apply them yourself or entrust the work to professionals.

When choosing a material, it is necessary to take into account a number of features: the properties of the mixture itself, the characteristics of the base, the method of application. The combination of these factors affects the appearance, service life and quality of the alignment.

Plastering walls poses a big task - to level the irregularities of the base wall by applying a concrete or gypsum mixture. And sometimes give the surface a decorative look. Depending on the composition and size of the differences, it is performed in different ways.

The main principle of choosing plaster is its purpose. It is necessary to consider where the work will take place: indoors or on the facade. What properties should the mixture have, and what is the base for finishing made of.

All plasters are divided into three large groups:

simple (for leveling the surface);
special (compositions with additives to improve individual characteristics);
decorative (finishing coatings that do not require additional processing).

The internal plaster of the walls of the house requires that the composition be safe and perfectly smoothed. For outdoor work, a mixture is required that is resistant to adverse environmental factors.

Cement

Dry mix of cement and sand. The ratio of components in the composition is on average 1 to 2-5, respectively. Before application, mix with water to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Cement plasters are used for interior and exterior. To improve plasticity and adhesion, plasticizers and PVA glue are added to the composition. When working in rooms with high humidity and on the street, slaked lime is added to the solution.

Apply 3-5 layers. The maximum thickness of one is no more than 20 mm, optimally 10 mm. The total thickness of the coating can reach 100 mm, but reinforcement will be required.

The task of this composition is to even out irregularities for further finishing. Suitable for brick, concrete and wooden bases. Before applying, we prime the surface, then we plaster the walls in three stages (spray, primer, coating).

Apply by hand and by machine, leveled with spatulas and the rule.

Gypsum

The mixture is based on gypsum powder, fine filler and polymer additives. It does not tolerate moisture and temperature changes, therefore it is used only for interior work. It is sold as a dry mix for preparing a solution with water.

The maximum layer thickness without reinforcement is 5 cm. Can be applied on any substrate. Suitable for creating a smooth surface for painting or wallpaper. Dries in just a few hours ready solution must be used within 40 minutes.

wall plaster technology plaster composition different from cement. The mixture is applied in one layer, leveled with a rule, small irregularities are corrected with a spatula.

decorative

Mixes decorative plaster perform two functions at once: hide minor defects and give an aesthetic appearance. Additional finishing is not needed. Pigments and insoluble granules of stone, sand, and plastic are added to such compositions.

Depending on which mixture and wall plastering technique is chosen, a different pattern, relief, pattern or texture is obtained.

Produced on acrylic, silicone, silicate and mineral base. If you follow all the rules of wall plastering, it adheres well to any bases. There are compounds for outdoor and indoor use.

Silicone

Silicone-based compounds perform external and internal plaster walls. The mixture remains flexible even after drying, thanks to which the surface is not afraid of sudden temperature changes and mechanical damage. It tolerates moisture well, therefore it is applicable in the decoration of the bathroom and kitchen.

The finished surface can have a “bark beetle”, “lamb” relief or imitate marble (Venetian). It all depends on how to plaster the walls, what tools to use and what size and shape. particulate matter in composition.

Sgraffito

Sgraffito is not a separate type of plaster, but a method of applying it. Using this technique, you can create carved color drawings. As a result, the plastered walls look like real paintings.

To create a beautiful effect, pigments are added to compositions on a different basis and plaster is applied in several layers that differ in shade. Further, patterns, ornament, figures are cut out on the dried finish.

Decorating walls with sgraffito plaster requires skills and experience. A person who knows how to draw and work with a mixture will cope with such a task.

Venetian

These mixtures imitate smooth or embossed marble surface. Composed of a polymer binder or lime, pigments and mineral dust. Since it is necessary to apply plaster in 5-6 layers, the work takes a lot of time. To get a marble pattern, the mixture is applied unevenly, gradually creating overflows of shades.

Depending on how the plaster is applied to the wall, the intensity and depth of color, contrasts and texture of natural stone varies.

Textured

Textured plaster creates an imitation of stone, wood and leather. It can contain any binder and solid fillers of various fractions and shapes. The larger they are, the more pronounced and embossed the pattern will turn out.

This plaster is used for interior and exterior wall decoration. For the former, the fillers are thinner, so the texture is elegant, for the latter, they are large, creating a rough relief.

The better to plaster walls

Which plaster is better for leveling walls depends on a number of factors: the size of the differences in the base surface, resistance to moisture, type of finish, operating conditions.

Criterion	Cement	Gypsum	decorative
The amount of irregularities	Up to 100 mm	Up to 50 mm	8 to 17 mm
moisture resistance	Yes	Not	Yes
Finish coat	Suitable for tiles, wallpaper and painting (subject to puttying)	Under wallpaper and painting (puttying is not required)	Additional finishing is not needed
Operating conditions ( temperature regime, humidity)	from -50 to +80 degrees, at any humidity	From +5 to +30 degrees Celsius, only for dry, heated rooms	From -50 to +75 degrees, tolerates a humid environment well
Recommended area of application	Facade of the building, rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, industrial buildings)	Bedroom, children's room, corridor	Depending on the type of binder, you can choose the composition for outdoor and indoor work

Important! The plastering of the walls in the apartment requires environmental safety from the mixture, therefore it is forbidden to use the composition for outdoor work indoors.

The application of plaster on the wall can be carried out different tools: wide and narrow spatulas, a special machine. For decorative compositions use rollers with embossed nozzles, a trowel, an applicator, brushes.

Ways to level walls

What kind of plaster is better to choose for leveling the walls is already clear, it remains to determine the method of its application to the surface.

Plaster can be applied to walls in two main ways: without beacons (by eye) and along beacons. The first method involves applying and leveling the mixture with spatulas, a rule or a trowel, suitable if the surface has minor differences up to 2-3 cm. The second method is more reliable and accurate. For him, a plane of metal profiles is pre-set on the walls.

You can determine the size of the differences using a plumb line or building level, and then choose which wall plastering technology is more suitable.

Plaster internal walls apartments are more often performed without beacons, since the differences are usually insignificant. AT industrial buildings with high ceilings it is better to use beacons.

Necessary tools and materials

To plaster the walls you will need a large set of tools and materials:

Hatchet or hammer with a pick (for removing old coating or protruding parts);
Brush (for applying a primer);
Priming composition suitable for the type of base;
Plumb or building level (to control the plane during operation);
Square (for deriving corners);
Large capacity (for mixing the solution);
Construction mixer;
Plaster spatula and trowel (for adding mortar to areas where it is not enough);
Wide and narrow spatulas;
guide beacons;
Rule and trowel (to level the layer);
Plaster corners (for reinforcing outer corners).

In order for the plastering of the walls with your own hands to be of high quality, it is necessary to study the technology of applying the mixture. If you are a beginner and not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals than to re-plaster the walls. They have all the materials for wall plastering in stock, and they know exactly what is best for plastering walls.

Preparatory stage

Preparatory work consists in surface treatment before applying the first plaster layer. The nature of the work is determined by the type of foundation:

Brick surface preparation. For better adhesion, you need to fix the reinforcing mesh or make recesses in the mortar between the bricks. This is followed by cleaning from dust and debris and a primer.
Preparation of concrete walls. If the material is not very dense, shallow cuts are made with an ax, then treated with concrete contact.
Surfaces of foam blocks are coated with a deep penetration primer.
Preparation of wooden walls for plaster. It is necessary to fill the diagonal slats in 5 cm increments so that the solution is better kept on the surface.

On the surface of the walls there should not be large protrusions, lagging behind the old coating, metal elements, dust and debris. After the base has been prepared and the primer has dried, you can begin the process of applying the plaster.

Application technology

Plastering walls begins with the preparation of the solution. To do this, the dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. Concrete and brick walls wetted with water so that the plaster sets longer and does not lag behind the surface.

The plastering technology includes three stages. This is the sequential application of three layers of a mixture of different density and thickness.

Instructions for plastering walls with your own hands:

Spray. This layer is the most liquid in consistency. It is thrown onto the surface with a trowel with little effort. Then lightly level with a falcon. The thickness of the plaster layer is 5-10 mm.
Priming. When the first layer has set but not yet dry, apply the second layer. It is thicker and thinner. It is placed on a falcon and applied to the wall, then leveled wide spatula, sweeping movements. One portion of the plaster should be enough for about 1 sq.m. area.
Nakryvka. Layer thickness 2 mm. The solution should be thick. It is superimposed on the seized soil. His task is to even out all the small irregularities. The mixture is no longer thrown, but smeared with a spatula, pressing a sharp edge to the surface. It is applied with movements from the bottom up. You can move in an arc. After the mixture has set, the surface is rubbed with a trowel.

Other methods of applying plaster are also practiced. For example, in one layer, without spraying. This method is suitable for those who do not have professional skills, since only a person with experience can properly plaster walls.

Grouting plaster

The last stage of plastering is grouting. Its task is to bring the surface to perfect smoothness. It is necessary to start grouting the surface when the last layer of plaster has hardened. The work is carried out in stages using different tools:

Grout with a trowel wooden surface set layer of coating. It is necessary to smooth out the traces of the spatula and tubercles. It is performed without pressure in a circular motion.
Smoothing with a grater with felt in sharp, straight movements.
Smoothing with a float with a rubber or metal strip. These tools prepare the surface for painting. Move first vertically, then horizontally.

After grouting, the wall is cleaned of dust and coated with a primer. You can proceed to further finishing when the surface dries well.

What is plaster on lighthouses

The process of leveling walls with lighthouses begins with the installation of profiles that will set the desired level.

Installation of beacons is carried out as follows:

They are screwed into the wall near the ceiling and floor along a self-tapping screw, their position is leveled with a plumb line. Their hats should be in the same plane.
Measure the distance between the screws, subtract 5 cm and cut off a profile fragment equal to the value obtained.
Draw a line between the screws with a pencil.
Throw the tubercles onto the line in 3-4 places with a plaster solution, press the profile into them so that its plane converges with the caps of the screws. Remove fasteners.
Repeat the procedure at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the first beacon. Thus, a plane is created along all the walls of the room.

This completes the installation of the beacons, and you can begin to apply the first layer of the mixture. After the plaster has been applied completely, the beacons are removed and the areas where they were located are leveled.

Do-it-yourself wall plastering

Do-it-yourself plastering can be done if the differences are not very large and the layer of the mixture does not exceed 2-5 cm. It is worth applying only mixtures for rough leveling and easy-to-use decorative ones. For example, to decorate a wall Venetian plaster with their own hands without experience - too reckless. Difficult formulations are best left to professionals.

Some compositions can be prepared independently. Cement plaster consists only of cement and sand, knowing the desired ratio of components, you can prepare a mixture.

How to make plaster:

Pour cement of a grade not lower than M200 and 3-4 times more sand into a large container or concrete mixer (depending on what fat content of the composition is needed) and mix dry;
Pour water in small portions until the desired consistency is obtained, periodically mixing the composition;
To improve plasticity, you can add a little detergent(at the rate of 30-50 ml per 5 liters of water).

The finished mixture must be used within an hour. Since plastering with your own hands can be delayed, it is not worth preparing a lot of mortar at once.

If we plaster ourselves, then we need to take care of protecting the skin from the composition, as well as cover the furniture and the floor in the room where the work takes place.

Since plastering walls with your own hands is not at all easy without experience, you can preview the video of how the masters do it.

You can save a lot on plastering walls in an apartment only if you prepare the solution yourself and apply it yourself.

You can cut costs a little more by saving material:

Dilute the composition with water in small portions in order to accurately have time to use it;
Carefully monitor the differences in the wall, perhaps in some places it is enough to cut off the bumps and the consumption of the mixture will be reduced;
Apply only two coats without covering, but this is acceptable if the differences do not exceed 1-2 cm.

Plastered walls improve the heat and sound insulation of the room, acquire a flat and smooth plane, ready for further finishing with thin coatings - wallpaper and paint. Some types of compositions also have decorative functions. You can apply the mixture in different ways, but it is important to do everything right, otherwise the coating will not last a long time.

By far the most durable and durable material for rough wall decoration is cement plaster. Unlike other materials, plaster is applicable for both indoor and outdoor work, and with the addition of the necessary plasticizers, it has heat resistance. wall plaster technology cement plaster not so difficult, because of which it is possible to perform this work with your own hands.

Surface preparation

Depending on the type of wall, the application of cement mortar requires some preparation. There are three main types of walls - stone, brick and concrete. So, let's start in order.

A stone wall is distinguished by the fact that the stone from which it is built is relatively easy to work. For example, after stretching the lighthouse cords, as a rule, protrusions are found that can be easily cut down with an ordinary ax. This must be done in order to avoid a thick layer of mortar and overspending of the material. Before starting work, the stone wall is moistened with water. Any experienced plasterer will confirm that brick walls are ideal for mortar application. The only requirement is to clean the seams to a depth of 1-1.5 cm, for this reason, brickwork is made into a wasteland, for better adhesion of cement mortar to it.

A rather difficult task is the plastering of concrete walls. Smooth surface and the water-repellent property of concrete greatly reduce its adhesion, and the usual cement mortar it just won't stick to it. There are three options for improving the adhesion of a concrete surface.

splashing of the wall;
plaster mesh;
applying a layer of adhesive mixture.

Spraying a concrete wall is done with a liquid solution. The solution is thrown on the wall thin layer using a bucket. This treatment of the wall guarantees good adhesion of the next, thicker layer. In cases where there is no time to plaster the wall in several layers, you can attach plaster mesh, thanks to which the poured solution will not slip. To ensure the highest adhesion of the mortar to the wall, it can be opened with a primer, after which a thin layer of adhesive mixture (such as ceresit CM11) is applied with a notched trowel.

It should be remembered that when plastering any wall, it must be cleaned of dust and moistened with water.

Installation of beacons

Experienced craftsmen sometimes do without additional beacons and marks, but if you decide to plaster the wall with your own hands and want to do it, achieving maximum quality, then you can’t do without additional guidelines. The first thing to do to ensure the wall is perfect is to stretch the beacon cords using water or laser level. The cords are pulled so as to hide all the irregularities of the wall and provide a minimum layer of mortar. After stretching the cords, you can begin to install beacons.

Beacons for plaster mounted on alabaster

Lighthouses are of two types - from a pure solution and metal. As a rule, it is much easier to use a ready-made metal beacon by simply placing it on the mortar. But you can make beacons from mortar mixed with alabaster for faster setting.

To install beacons, you will need a fairly thick solution, it is easier to level it, for the reason that it does not float. A metal beacon can be installed by vertically throwing a strip of mortar 10-15 cm wide onto the wall and sticking a beacon on it. Then, using a rule and a plumb line, align it relative to the plane of the wall. The beacon, consisting of a solution, is also leveled using the rule, only the excess solution should be cut off, waiting until the solution strip seizes a little.

Beacons must be installed exactly not only by themselves, but also relative to each other, so when installing the next beacon, do not forget to check it against the beacon cord, which must be stretched from corner to corner of the wall. After the beacons grab, you can pull the solution along them - like on rails with your own hands, without any special mastery skills.

Solution

The plaster mortar is prepared from coarse, non-clay sand, which should be sieved. The proportion is usually made 1:4, that is, one shovel of cement and four shovels of sand. But there are other proportions, depending on the further purpose of the wall. For example, if it is planned to lay tiles, then it is better to make the plaster mortar stronger - 1: 3.

Lime mortars require a much smaller amount of cement and provide thermal insulation for the premises plastered with it. Lime gives the solution viscosity and is easy to apply and level. But due to the low density and small amount of cement, cement-lime plaster does not cling to the wall surface so well and is not used for outdoor work. If a plastering work are held at sub-zero temperature(up to -15⁰C), then chlorinated water is used to prepare the solution. The rest of the proportions remain the same.

Table for calculating the amount of required solution

When plastering stoves and fireplaces, the solution is made with the addition of salt. Brine it seizes for a long time, so you need to add alabaster to it. Salt is added at the rate of 1 kg per 10 liters of water. Such a solution after setting has increased heat resistance. The density of the solution is made based on the thickness of the required layer and the type of wall.

Cape solution

After we have set the beacons and made sure that they have dried sufficiently, we can start throwing the solution. The solution is applied to the wall in one or more layers. The minimum layer of cement-sand plaster is 10mm. If the irregularities of the wall require the application of a solution of more than 50 mm, then after the first application, you need to wait until the first layer has set, and then apply another layer. Before applying the next layer, you need to make sure that the first layer has hardened enough, otherwise it will come off and you will have to start all over again. The application of the solution is done in three main ways:

with the help of a plasterer;
ladle;
spreading with the help of a semi-terre and a bean.

Undoubtedly, each of these methods requires certain skills. And if you decide to throw a solution with your own hands, then you will need to practice a little.

Rule pulling

Having filled the plane between the beacons with a solution, it is pulled together with a rule or a large half-way, from the bottom up. It is necessary to tighten until the solution is flush with the level of the beacons. If cavities remain on the wall after screeding, they should be filled with mortar and pulled off again.

After the solution has seized a little and no longer floats, you should run the rule over it several more times, this is done until the wall surface is perfectly flat. When cutting off excess mortar, we keep the rule strictly perpendicular to the wall, otherwise there will be depressions.

Wall grouting

Usually for grouting, a solution with fine sand is kneaded. Grouting is carried out using a grater 15x20cm and (or) half a ter. Rub well internal corners, swiping it up and down the corner of the wall. Due to the fact that it is longer than the grater, the corners are perfectly aligned.

The main plane of the wall can also be rubbed with a trowel, but physically it is difficult and it is easier to use a small grater for this. If the grater is held in the right hand, then we rub it in a circular motion counterclockwise, if in the left, then clockwise. We carry out grouting by wetting the wall with water.

External corners and slopes

The outer corner is plastered quite simply. The first step is to completely plaster one of the walls and let it dry. Then, along the outer edge of this wall, a flat board is nailed vertically, setting it in level, and so that its edge is flush with the beacons of the next wall.

You need to nail the board so that it does not hang out. Next, plaster the next wall. After a few hours after the final grouting, the board is removed, and the irregularities and residues of the mortar remaining after removing the board are cut off and ground. Slopes are plastered in the same way:

We plaster and grind the main wall.
We let her dry.
We nail a flat board along the edge of the slope.
Plastering the slope itself.
Remove the board and grind again.

Ceiling plastering is done in two times. First, a shingle is sewn, consisting of wooden planks nailed to the ceiling, along and across. Then the first layer of the solution is thrown, which is not pulled together. The next day, with the help of a semi-terre, another layer is applied, which is pulled together and rubbed with the same semi-terre. Plastering the ceiling requires the master, special skills and experience.

Plastering round columns is done using a prepared template. Usually the column is plastered in several layers until a perfect circle is achieved. Plastering round and conical columns requires professional skills and special tools.

High-quality oven mixtures can be purchased from the SEV company. You can get acquainted with the full catalog of products, as well as prices, on the company's website http://sev-company.ru.

So the time has come when traditional stoves began to seem like a dense relic of the past, because the total gasification of private housing has practically replaced alternative fuel. Over the years, they have practically not undergone any special changes in decoration, since new materials were not actually developed.

In the photo - carrying out plastering of the furnace

This, of course, is in vain, since the oven is enough reliable source heat that does not suffer from interruptions in the supply of gas, electricity, diesel fuel or pellets. It is enough just to make a timely supply of firewood and coal, so the services of stove-makers are likely to be in price again.

Do-it-yourself plastering of a brick oven

In the article below, we will try to reveal one of the secrets of what should be the solution for plastering furnaces.

This question will inevitably arise when building a new or repairing an old heater. Agree, the conditions at the finish will be akin to extreme, since it will have to periodically heat up very much and then cool down. Far from every modern mixture can withstand this.

Modern technologies

In addition, do not lose sight of the environmental friendliness of the plaster, so that toxic substances do not enter the room when heated. It must also be elastic and have good thermal conductivity. The price of the finished mixture is very, very low.

Why plaster the oven

The question is far from being idle, since in the manufacture they try to make it durable and tight.

And, nevertheless, it is almost impossible to meet an unplastered stove, why:

Usage finishing material will decorate the interior of the room and ennoble the appearance of the building.
The clay mortar for plastering the stove, used in the form of plaster, is a safety layer that allows you to make the stove masonry stronger and more airtight. This is due to objective reasons. Since temperature changes, the masonry cracks, which can cause smoke to enter the room. This is negative factor not only for the interior, but also for health.

If you look at the shelves of hardware stores, the price of many heat-resistant modern materials outperforms conventional kiln plastering mixes based on clay.

For example, you can use a clay-sand mortar with the addition of lime or cement, a solution of lime and gypsum is also suitable. But, most often they try to use mixtures based on clay.

Clay brickwork

Tip: start plastering brickwork only after it has completely solidified, then shrinkage will not affect the result. Usually 30 days is enough.

Be aware that when you prepare a mortar for plastering an oven, the proportions between the components of the clay-sand mixture depend on the fat content of the main parameter, clay. For example, if it is oily, it is necessary to add 4 parts of sand to 1 part of clay.

Tip: to increase the strength of the plaster will help fiberglass or asbestos, which must be added to the finished mixture.

If you need to prepare a solution for plastering a chimney, you should know that it must contain slaked lime. Otherwise, it will fall off the brickwork due to condensation.

Furnace plastering technology

Below is a ready-made instruction for action:

Training

The surface of the brickwork should be prepared by cleaning it of dirt and grout residues (with a spatula or metal brush), as well as dust (with a soft brush).

Tip: clear the seams between the bricks to a depth of 5-10 mm so that the plaster clings to the base better.

Drive nails into the joints (l = 40-50 mm) in increments of up to 150 mm. They should protrude outward by about 10 mm.
Do not be lazy, treat the masonry surface with a primer.
A fiberglass mesh will also help you create a rough surface and give strength to the mortar. Attach it to the masonry with a liquid mixture.

Tip: Only plaster hot walls.

Plaster metal grid for solution

Process

Wet the brickwork with water. Apply the plaster solution in layers.
Make the first layer liquid, the consistency of sour cream.
Apply the second after the first has hardened, its thickness is up to 10 mm. Wait until he grabs.
Level the surface. To do this, wait until the solution sets, and rub all the bumps on it, after wetting it with water.

Tip: expand the cracks that appear after drying, moisten with water, fill with mortar and, after it dries, rub.

Solution Requirements

Oven plaster must have special characteristics that differ significantly from traditional cement-sand mortars used for home decoration. This is due to the conditions of her work - furnace masonry expands when heated, so it is extremely important that the finished mixture is elastic.

Solution preparation

The second parameter is the good thermal conductivity of the material so that the stove can quickly heat up the room.

For this purpose, various components are added to the solution:

clay;
asbestos;
fireclay;
salt;
fiberglass.

Simple clay and complex solutions based on it can be used. They can be purchased at hardware store or do it yourself.

Table for the preparation of plaster mixes

Mixes for plastering ovens

What solution to plaster the oven with is a serious question, since a lot depends on it. The components in the solution may have a different ratio with each other, depending on the fat content of the clay.

Its fat content is diluted with sand, respectively, the higher this parameter, the more sand will be needed. When mixing, the dry components are first joined together, where clay or lime is then added.

Tip: add 200 g of salt to a bucket of clay-sand mortar to increase its strength.

Below are recipes for how to prepare a mortar for plastering the oven yourself:

First the composition of the mortar for plastering ovens, which is often used for plastering oven surfaces: 1: 1: 1 / 10: 2 (clay, lime, asbestos and sand). The components of the mixture must be thoroughly mixed with each other, it should be brought to the desired condition with water, which must be gradually added to the container.

Second way: 2:1:1 (sand, clay cement M400 or M500). First, mix the clay with water to make a thick dough. Then add asbestos, cement and water to the solution, mix thoroughly. The density of the mixture should resemble steep sour cream. The disadvantage is that it takes 60 minutes to work out the solution.

The consistency of the finished solution

Before you make a mortar for plastering the oven, you must understand that there is water and a binder aggregate in any composition, which can be alone or mixed with other components, in particular, lime and cement. When using high-strength gypsum mortar, remember that it sets within 6 minutes, and after 30 minutes it is unusable.

Conclusion

The finished mixture for plastering ovens must have special characteristics, in particular, be elastic. When preparing a solution from the recipes indicated above, or from store mixes, this must be taken into account.

Properly prepared solution is evenly and easily applied to the surface, and smoothed out without problems. Watch the viscosity, which you adjust with water, do not exceed the rate of sand, otherwise the plasticity of the solution will suffer. In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Fur coat for the oven.

(how to plaster the oven)

Before plastering, the surface of the furnace must be well prepared, and before applying the solution to the furnace, it must be heated so that the solution is applied to the hot walls.

Furnace surface preparation.

When the masonry is finished and the stove has stood for at least a month, you can begin the preparatory work. The oven is cleaned of clay mortar, the same is done with the seams, which are cleared to a depth of at least 1 cm. This is the most simplest way, providing a sufficiently strong adhesion of the plaster to the masonry.

There is also a more reliable preparation for plastering. It consists in the fact that after jointing the seams and removing the solution from them, nails from 100 to 110 mm long are hammered here, preferably at a certain angle. They must be hammered in so that the caps protrude 5 mm above the surface and recede from each other at a distance of 15-18 cm; vertically - through 2-3 rows of masonry.

A wicker mesh with cells of no more than 20X20 mm is attached to the nails with soft furnace wire. Thus, an increased roughness is created, providing a more reliable fixation of the solution on the surface of the furnace.

If the mesh is too soft and closely adjacent to the surface of the furnace, a steel wire 2.5-3 mm thick is laid under it near the nails and also fastened to the nails.

Plastering solutions use several compositions, measuring the source materials in volumetric parts and adding asbestos or finely chopped slag or glass wool to reinforce the solution. All components of the solution must be thoroughly mixed.

Recipe 1.

One part clay, one part lime paste, two parts sand, one tenth asbestos.

All components are laid at the same time and mixed, adding water and bringing the solution to the desired density.

Recipe 2.

One part of clay, two parts of sand, one part of cement grade not lower than 300 and one tenth of asbestos. First, clay and sand are mixed together and water is added in such quantity as to obtain a thick dough. Then asbestos and cement are introduced and everything is mixed again, water is added until a solution is obtained like thick sour cream. The solution should be used within an hour, counting from the moment of preparation.

Recipe 3.

One part gypsum, two parts lime paste, one part sand, two tenths asbestos.

The lime dough is mixed with sand and asbestos until completely homogeneous, getting a thick dough. They take one part of gypsum, mix it with water until the density of liquid sour cream, add two parts of lime mortar, mixing everything thoroughly and getting the so-called winding. Density is regulated by water. This dressing is applied to the surface of the oven for 5-6 minutes from the moment of preparation, until the solution has set. Zavodki should be prepared no more than two liters - for the specified period for beginner plasterers, this is quite enough. It is impossible to mix the thickened winding with the addition of water, since after that it does not set well, dries out, cracks and does not have the necessary strength.

Recipe 4.

One part clay, two parts sand and one tenth asbestos. This solution is the weakest. It should be said that the thickness of the plaster is considered good at 10 mm, sometimes it is adjusted to 15-20 mm, but this is already superfluous.

Plastering is carried out along the hot walls of the furnace. First, they are moistened with water, then a liquid creamy solution is applied - this layer is called spray. As soon as it seizes (gets stronger a little), a second layer of mortar is applied to it - a soil thicker than a spray. It is recommended to apply layers with a thickness of 5-7 mm. After setting the soil, the surface is finally leveled - overwritten. If the thickness of the plaster is 15-20 mm, then the solution is applied in three steps, each time leveling the layer of the solution - so it is then easier to overwrite. It is impossible to cover the soil with a thin layer and pure gypsum dough: during subsequent grouting, such a layer does not have strength.

Grouting is done after the mortar has set, but still soft enough. Wooden, metal or plastic grater is taken right hand; in the left they hold a brush, which, if necessary, moisten the plaster with water. The grout is carried out so that the plaster is clean and smooth, without missing places and rubbing. If cracks form on the plaster during drying, they are expanded (cut), moistened with water, covered with the same solution and rubbed again.

It is best to paint the plaster with lime whitewash, to which is added, mixing well, table salt diluted in a glass of water (100 g per 10 l of whitewash).

The right solution for plastering the oven: proportions, composition, instructions

Salt gives the whitewash strength, and it does not shoal. Whitewash is applied once or twice, but no more: a thick layer, drying out, may crack.

A few more articles from the section "Your house and apartment"

On the page "Books — for free" you can download FREELY some materials of the "Bonus" section immediately.

Oven masonry requires additional finishing to give the body strength and tightness, as well as just for beauty. The most reliable and easy to manufacture is plaster. Sometimes it is enough to update it to get new building, and the newly folded oven must be plastered. To do this, a refractory mixture is prepared, which must contain reinforcing heat-resistant fibers. You don't have to buy it from the store how to plaster an oven You can use a solution prepared by yourself. Its basis is clay, and the quality of the cladding depends on the choice of its grade.

What to plaster?

The plasticity of the mixture for plastering furnaces depends on the fat content of clay, because the fatter it is, the better the lining. Standard solution consists of 1 part clay and 2 parts sand. However, various ingredients should be added to it, which increase the plasticity and degree of thermal conductivity. Such additives for plastering ovens are:

asbestos (0.1-0.2 parts by volume of the mixture)
lime (1-2 parts of the total volume)
gypsum (1 part of the volume of the solution)
cement (1 part of the total volume)

Salt is popularly considered a reliable ingredient, which is added at the rate of 200 grams per bucket of the mixture. It becomes heat resistant and durable. At the same time, the following composition is considered to be of the highest quality, which is used most often to plaster the furnace:

clay (1 hour) + lime dough (1 hour) + sand (2 hours) + asbestos (1/10 hour).

The ingredients are poured into a container and filled with water.

It is necessary to mix the mixture correctly and quickly so that lumps are broken, and use a mixer nozzle for this. If cement or gypsum is used instead of lime, the mortar will be fast setting. In this case, the mixture for plastering the oven is prepared in small quantities, since it will harden in about half an hour. Thus, the amount of solution is calculated depending on the speed of work.

It should be noted that the plastering of stoves is carried out with the same solution as the lining of fireplaces. They are subject to the same requirements, only the area of \u200b\u200bthe body and design features distinguish oven.

Plastering the oven: how and with what to plaster the oven, recipes for solutions

That is why plasters for fireplaces and stoves do not differ in composition. Mixes can be bought at a hardware store, however, it is not always nearby, and ingredients can be obtained in any area.

Cladding process

Preparation of finished brickwork for facing is carried out in the following way:

The adhesion of the surface to the solution should be as reliable as possible. To do this, the seams of the masonry are cleared to a depth of 1 cm.
Further, nails are driven into these seams, leaving a protrusion of 5 mm (with a cap) on the surface. The pitch between the nails does not exceed 150 mm.
Then a reinforcing mesh with 20 mm cells is attached. It is tied to protruding nails with knitting wire. There should be a gap of 4 mm between the mesh and the body.

It should be noted that the plastering of furnaces is carried out when the body is heated. After it is well heated, it is sprinkled with water. In total, at least 3 layers of clay mixture are applied, while each of them differs in purpose, application method and name.

First, the plaster of the furnace is made up to 5 mm thick. This will be the first layer, which is called the splatter. It levels the surface, while the reinforcing mesh is not completely covered, but often remains visible through its small thickness.
After the initial layer has hardened, a second layer of the same thickness is applied. Here the consistency of the solution is thicker and resembles dough. This layer is called the ground, its purpose is to prepare the base for the front finish.
For the 3rd layer, the plaster for ovens is made again more liquid. This layer is decorative in nature, it is called a covering. The final result of the plastering of the furnace and the quality of the painting depend on it.

Nakryvka closes cracks, even imperceptible visually. Its standard thickness is 2 mm, and it is applied after the 2nd layer has completely dried. Here you can't just use gypsum mixture, since at the next stage of work it will lose its appearance. After the layers have completely dried, the plaster should be grouted with a float. You can use metal or plastic, and with a pre-prepared brush, you need to wet the surface before grouting.

The stove is rough - and the house is warm!

Stoves: Russian, Dutch, Finnish, coarse, like any other room stove - are designed to heat a small room. In this case, the Dutch oven performs only the function of heating. Russian, if a couch is attached to it, can simultaneously serve as a source of heat, and a kitchen stove, and the warmest bed in the world. The rough acts as a stove and a heating element, and it is easy to do it yourself.

Russian stove in the interior of the house

Interior with stove

The traditional material for facing the furnace is ceramic brick. Such material retains color and structure, while perfectly transferring heat to the room. The oven fits easily into the interior of a rustic or ethnic style kitchen.

How to plaster the oven so that it does not crack

Rough looks great in rooms with log or wooden walls, or interior details made of wood.

Stove with stove bench

A completely unlimited field for fantasies is provided by ceramic facing tiles. Its thermal conductivity characteristics are the same as those of ceramic bricks, but external qualities allow you to create a real work design art. Using the same tiles for facing the stove and part of the walls of the kitchen, you can create an integral harmonious ensemble.

modern stove

Furnace structure

The coarse is a more advanced design compared to the once-through furnace. However, its device is quite simple, and doing it yourself will require only some experience with bricks and careful observance of the instructions. The scheme of the furnace is as follows.

Blower - a chamber for the passage of air. Most often, the chamber is equipped with a door for regulating the air supply. Usually a grate is located between the blower and the combustion chamber.
The firebox is the actual working chamber where the fuel burns. Usually equipped with a door for loading fuel.
Convector or furnace flue - vertical channels for the passage of heated gas. The more revolutions the gas makes, the more heat is transferred to the room.

Chimney - a convector is often also understood as a chimney, but in the general case, a chimney is a pipe for removing gas from a room. Chimney in without fail must be equipped with a damper and a soot cleaning door.

Materials.

Brick - ceramic bricks are used for cladding, so the future appearance of the furnace should be taken into account when choosing. For the working chamber - firebox, you should choose a refractory brick.
Materials for the solution - clay, sand and fireclay powder.
Grids - if coal will be used for heating, and not just firewood, it is recommended to choose a cast-iron grate.

Doors - for blower, firebox and chimney.
Material for waterproofing - roofing material.

Foundation

Since the oven is a brick product, it also has a fair amount of weight. So the laying of the furnace must begin with the foundation. Having calculated the dimensions of the future furnace according to the scheme, mark up and dig a hole larger than the size of the rough by 25 cm. The hole is filled with rubble, broken brick and that similar material. Crushed stone is carefully compacted and filled with a liquid solution of cement with sand (1: 2). Then the pit is laid with one row of bricks and, after drying, is covered with roofing material. In the photo, the finished foundation looks like this.

masonry

For laying the stove, you need to use clay, not cement mortar with the addition of fireclay powder, since the surface of the stove will heat up quite a lot. Clay for this must be carefully sifted, poured with water and let it brew - at least eight hours, mix well before use.

Brick before laying is required to soak for 10 - 15 minutes - until air bubbles cease to stand out. Before laying, a row of bricks is laid out “dry”, for checking, and then with mortar, and must be wiped with a damp cloth. The excess solution must be removed, and the gaps must be carefully filled, literally pressing the solution. No gaps allowed. Each row of bricks must be checked using the building level - this is a guarantee of the strength of the future furnace.

Montage rough

A solid row of bricks is laid on the foundation, then the body and the blower door are installed, previously wrapped with asbestos cord, and four more rows of bricks are laid out until the door is closed. There must be a gap of at least 10 mm between the door body and the brick.

Then the grates are installed. To do this, cuts are made in the brickwork, exceeding the grate by 10 mm in size. In the photo, the cut looks like this. In the same way as the blower door, the firebox door is installed. Depending on the size of the working chamber, from 9 to 11 rows of bricks will be needed to cover the firebox door.

After laying the last row, install the slab. Right on the brickwork, the required dimensions are marked and cuts are made according to the size of the slab and its thickness. Then a mortar is applied to the brick and a slab is installed. The main part of the rough in the photo looks like this.

Chimney installation

Depending on the chosen type of furnace, different designs are carried out. In the simplest case, the heated gas rises to the top of the furnace and descends down the side channels. Then it enters the chimney itself and goes outside. When installing, follow one design feature: the first channel through which the gas rises must have outer wall three-quarters of a brick, and the side ones - half a brick. This operation requires labor and experience, so the help of a specialist may be needed, especially if a multi-turn type of chimney is implemented.

The proposed scheme is quite easy to modify: both to a simpler once-through stove that can provide heat for a small country house, and to a technological version with a large number of channels. In the same way, the rough can be transformed into a classic Russian oven with a stove bench, of which the rough was once a part. And in any case, a small or large indoor stove will fill the house with warmth and comfort.

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