Making blocks with your own hands. Installation for the production of building blocks with your own hands. Production of building blocks. Do-it-yourself cinder blocks: manufacturing instructions

Expanded clay concrete has good performance characteristics, due to which it is widely used in the construction industry. To build a house from it, it is not necessary to order finished material. You will save a lot if you make expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands. For this, you do not need to purchase expensive equipment or raw materials.

Required materials and tools

When building a building from a large number of expanded clay concrete blocks (for example, you decide to build your own house), you will need to stock up on special equipment:

• a concrete mixer (it is better to take a capacity of at least 130 liters), depending on the company, its cost can be 9.5-12 thousand rubles;
• a manual machine for vibrocompression: it can be purchased at a hardware store for 7.5-10 thousand rubles. or order directly from the manufacturer; molds for pouring in such designs are already provided, so you do not need to buy or make them separately; if desired, it can be made by yourself from a metal countertop and an old working engine.

As practice shows, with special equipment and a sufficient supply of molds for a full day, when working together, it is quite possible to get about 160 blocks. A mechanical machine for manufacturing allows you to make 1-4 blocks in one cycle (1-2 minutes). If you take a few more assistants who will bring, fill in raw materials and drag already finished products, then the number of finished products will increase by 2 times.

A small number of blocks can be made without special equipment. In this case, you only need to choose a suitable container for mixing the solution and make molds for pouring.

mold making

To make the blocks yourself, you can use both a common formwork and several separate forms. The matrices are assembled from two side parts in the shape of the letter "L" and the pallet (bottom) of the product. They can be made from an ordinary 20 mm board, metal sheet or plastic. The standard block has a size of 39x19x19.

It is better to fasten wooden forms with metal corners and sheathe the inside with thin-walled metal. Otherwise, they will absorb moisture from the solution, which may affect the strength of future products. If the metal is not at hand, you can miss side walls and the bottom of the tank with machine oil. It will also protect the matrix from moisture.

Voids in the blocks are provided not only to save the solution, but also to create air gaps in the walls to increase thermal conductivity. To create hollow products, three round or rectangular cylinders must be installed inside the molds. So that they do not move, they are interconnected, and then screwed with self-tapping screws to the side parts of the form.

To obtain voids in the manufacture of a small number of blocks, you can even use ordinary plastic bottles. In such cases, to make them heavier, it is better to fill them with water. It is necessary to insert them into the form after filling it with a solution of 2/3.

So, our forms are ready. It remains only to prepare expanded clay concrete.

Solution preparation

Expanded clay concrete is easy to knead with your own hands. To obtain a high-quality mortar, cement, sand and expanded clay are mixed in a ratio of 1: 3: 8. Water is added at the rate of 200 liters per 1 m 3, although its amount also depends on the initial moisture content of the dry mixture. For the manufacture of expanded clay concrete blocks, we need:

• expanded clay with a strength of P150-200: it is better not to use fractions larger than 5-10 mm, since the blocks will turn out to be shapeless, and their strength will be much lower;
• sand: to receive quality products use gravel-enriched sand; ordinary river sand is not recommended;
• cement M400-500;
• water;
• plasticizers: they are often used as ordinary liquid soap, washing powder or dishwashing detergent, you will need 1% of the total amount of cement; for a 130 l concrete mixer, you can take about 70 g of soap; it is possible to increase the plasticity of the solution not only with the help of soap, but also by adding clay, lime or wood ash to it.

When mixing a high-quality homogeneous solution, it is important not only to observe the proportions, but also introduce the components into it in a certain sequence. First, the exact amount of water is measured. Expanded clay, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed together, and only then the resulting dry mixture is introduced into the liquid. The prepared solution should have a consistency similar to softened plasticine.

How to make expanded clay concrete without a concrete mixer? In this case, you will have to work hard, thoroughly mixing the solution with a shovel. In this case, it will be necessary to dilute the solution in small portions - after all, unmixed lumps can affect the quality of the final products. The solution is ready. The last question remains - how to make expanded clay concrete blocks?

Since expanded clay lightweight material, in solution, it will constantly float up, which is why the production of a large number of products requires a vibrating machine. In its absence, each form will have to be compacted with narrow wooden block until "cement milk" appears. Full-bodied products can be pressed with a manual rammer.

Using a vibrator greatly simplifies the work. The solution is poured into steel molds, its excess is removed. Next, the engine turns on for a couple of seconds so that the solution settles a little. We level the solution, remove its excess and turn on the vibrator again for 5-7 seconds. We turn off the car. To get the molds out of the machine, it is necessary to scroll its handle to the stop.

For more information on how to make durable expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, see the video.

Drying

In the form of blocks will dry for about 2 days. During a wet and rainy period, this time can be longer. It is better to store ready-made expanded clay concrete blocks on pallets, 3-4 pieces in a row. The air gap between the pallets will allow the finished products to dry more evenly.

It is necessary to finally bring the blocks taken out of the mold under a canopy, so that direct rays of the sun and raindrops do not fall on them. In the heat, they are moistened with water and covered with cellophane film. You can start working with them after 1-1.5 weeks. However ideal option there will be their monthly drying - only during this time the cement will fully gain brand strength. Before starting work, the blocks must be cleaned of irregularities. You can remove the dried influx of the solution with an ordinary knife.

The cost of blocks made at home

Expanded clay blocks made by hand, the cost will come out much cheaper. If you want to know how much you can save, do the following simple calculations. About 10-11 hollow blocks are obtained from 100 liters of solution. To mix this amount of solution, we need:

Material	Quantity, kg	Cost per kg in Moscow and Moscow region, rub.	Amount, rub.
Cement	7,7	4,80	36,96
Sand	23,1	3,40	78,54
Expanded clay	61,5	1,40	86,10
Water	7.7 l	–	–
Total:	100 l		201,60

The cost of 10 blocks will be 201 rubles. 60 kop. Accordingly, 1 piece will cost 20 rubles. 16 kop. Let's say you need 776 blocks to build a 4x7x3 m garage. Their cost in making their own hands is 15 thousand 664 rubles.

The cost of one finished product is on average 80 rubles, that is, 776 blocks will cost 62 thousand rubles. 80 rub. Thus, the manufacture of expanded clay concrete blocks at home is more profitable - after all, we save a solid amount of 46 thousand 416 rubles.

Each of us needs a family and our own comfortable place for permanent residence. Someone wants to have an apartment in big city, and someone dreams of living where you can grow vegetables and fruits, keep pets, have a house suitable for habitation, and all the necessary outbuildings. But line it all up necessary premises from purchased building materials, not everyone can afford. In this case, we think about whether it is possible to build a house from hand-made material.

Aerated concrete blocks - light construction material Therefore, when building a house, there is no need to strengthen the foundation.

This question was asked by all generations before us, so a sufficient number of ways to obtain building materials from improvised means have long been known.

Most optimal solution in this case, it is the construction of housing on their own from what can be obtained directly on the spot.

Elements of the supporting frame: 1 - the first row of blocks based on mortar; 2 - additional honeycomb blocks; 3 - annular reinforced belt; 4 - reinforced concrete floor slabs; 5 - heat-insulating gasket; 6 - monolithic reinforced concrete distribution belt; 7 - lintel reinforced from concrete; 8 - lintel made of concrete; 9 - waterproofing; 10 - base.

The most accessible of the materials that can be found everywhere is the earth, or rather, the soil, which is under the fertile layer. Since ancient times, both residential buildings and other buildings were built from the ground, but more often in those areas where there was little forest. Blocks were made from this material using plastic molding or tamping, as well as using formwork (the soil was simply stuffed into it very tightly).

For example, if do-it-yourself work on building a house is planned without a basement, then the soil that was taken out for the arrangement of the future foundation will be enough to build the walls of a one-story house. If you make a basement, then the house can already be made two-story. For walls, the soil that is taken out during the construction of a pool, drainage or well is also suitable.

Previously, it was not possible to mechanize at least some part of the manufacturing process of such a building material, but in our time, of course, you no longer have to mix the necessary ingredients with your feet, because special mechanized devices have been invented for this.

With the advent of special mechanisms, the situation with the construction using improvised materials has changed significantly for the better. Using an electrified tool, you can make material - mix it and compact it. And the result is no worse than in ancient times, but it takes much less time and physical effort.

The authors of the equipment in question managed to create a tool suitable for compacting concrete and other construction low-moisture mixtures and materials, as well as soil masses. And this invention, affordable to many, will make it possible to produce most of the building material and parts directly at the construction site.

Soil manufacturing technology

With this machine it is possible to form wall blocks from local raw materials, incl. from the soil using the "zone injection" technology.

The production process of this device is based on the reproduction of the natural effect called "fluid wedge". home technological feature consists in the fact that the form, the molding powder mass and the supercharger simultaneously move in it. And all this without any vibrations and noises. This eliminates the need for such traditional processes as dosing mass, control of product size and pressure, which inflates the punch in similar molding plants.

In the molding machine called "Mini-supercharger" MN-05, a dense and uniform structure is formed throughout the entire volume of the mold, and the dimensions of the product always correspond to the shape in all respects. When switching to another material, no changeover of the equipment is required. And in the process, the effects of elastic aftereffect, air entrapment and overpressure are excluded.

Block laying sequence: a - single-row dressing system; b - multi-row dressing system; c, d - multi-row dressing system in a mixed way (numbers indicate the sequence of masonry).

MN-05, which has no analogues in the world, is intended not only for the manufacture of single-format blocks for building needs, with its help it is possible to independently manufacture bricks, and various racks, blocks, slabs for window sills and much more, which is necessary when building a house with your own hands. The raw materials for MH-05 can also be different kinds soils, and, and industrial waste, and other materials.

This molding kit is indispensable for owners of garden and summer cottages, cottages, farmers, landscape designers and architects, as there are endless opportunities for individual creativity both in the construction of a house and in the improvement of any territory, whether household plot or a park.

Everyone has the opportunity to work with this device. Nothing complicated needs to be done. And at the same time, the cost of building a house is several times lower than usual. Here are some parameters of products that can be made on MN-05 (name, size in millimeters and one-time quantity):

• raw brick from a soil block - 65x120x250 - 4 pcs;
• concrete block for paving - 65x120x250 - 4 pieces;
• paving slabs 250x250 - 2 pieces;
• concrete gas stone - 65x120x1000 - 2 pieces;
• flat tiles -120x250 - 4 pieces;
• window sill plate - 50x250x1500 - 1 pc;
• window jumper - 50x250x1500 - 1 pc;
• concrete facing tiles- 250x250x15 - 2 pieces;
• reinforced concrete post-column - 65x65x100 - 3 pcs;
• concrete tray - 65x250x100 - 1 pc.

The “flowing wedge” phenomenon makes it possible to obtain unique properties of the material: its density reaches 99%, which prevents elastic stress, transverse delamination and expansion of compacts, since air is not trapped.

Manufacturing in a block form

It is better to make a mold for making blocks with a removable bottom, so it will be easier to take out finished blocks.

There are other technologies for making blocks for construction and other building materials for the house with your own hands from improvised materials (clay, sand, lime, sawdust, earth bit) and from cement.

The technology that will be discussed now is similar to the technology called "tise" (technology + individual construction + ecology), but this one is modified and universal, since it can be used to make building blocks with voids (sand and cement mortar ), and without them (clay, sand, sawdust, cement, lime, earthbite).

The durability of block structures using this technology is greater than that of those made by traditional methods - up to 100 years or more. With the help of such blocks, it is possible to erect buildings up to 4 floors.

The process of making a block with your own hands:

• preparation of a solution (sand-cement or other);
• setting the block form to exactly horizontal position;
• pouring the solution into the mold (and, if necessary, ramming it);
• after 5-10 minutes, the pins and internal structures are removed to form voids;
• removal of the mold from the manufactured structure, further drying of the block.

In this way, you can make up to 40 blocks per day with your own hands. And building blocks made in block form have significant advantages over panel or brick blocks:

• very significant reduction in construction costs;
• use of economical equipment;
• no need for heavy lifting and transport vehicles;
• availability of building materials;
• minimal waste;
• ensuring high strength of the structure;
• high thermal insulation of the house;
• environmental safety and high level comfort;
• during operation there are no high costs for maintenance and repair.

Building blocks from wood concrete

The main composition of the wall blocks includes wood chips and concrete.

Arbolite blocks are lightweight building wall blocks that are made from wood chips(usually from coniferous trees), water, sawdust, chemical reagents and cement. In the sixties of the last century, the production of such blocks was carried out by more than 100 factories throughout the country. But after the approval of panel construction, production was discontinued.

Nowadays, it is possible to make blocks of wood concrete for building a house with your own hands, with strict observance of all technological requirements. The requirements of GOST, according to which wood concrete was previously made, involves the use of wood particles, the size of which is strictly 40x10x5 mm. The number of leaves and needles cannot exceed 5% and should not exceed 10% of the bark.

For the manufacture of a considerable amount of cement is needed, which worsens thermal insulation properties material. It is because of this that wood chips are considered an ideal option as the main raw material.

Arbolit - perfect material for the manufacture of bath or sauna walls.

Experts recommend using sawdust and shavings, because wood chips can serve both for heat and for reinforcement. The ratio of sawdust and shavings can be either 1:1 or 1:2. Before use, in order to avoid rotting from chips and sawdust, sugar must be removed, and for this it is necessary to keep the material outdoors for 3-4 months. Without this procedure, swelling of the blocks is possible in the future.

During aging, it is necessary to periodically shovel chips with sawdust, but if this is not possible, then the mixture must be treated with calcium oxide. A solution is prepared at the rate of 150-200 liters of a 1.5% solution per 1 m² of raw materials. The processed mixture is left for 3-4 days with stirring several times a day.

For the manufacture of wood concrete is required. Experts recommend using Portland cement 400 grade, and liquid glass as additives, slaked lime, aluminum sulfate and calcium sulfate.

Additives are prepared in the amount of 2-4% of the mass of cement. The best combination of additives is considered to be a mixture of 50% calcium sulfate and 50% aluminum sulfate, or in the same ratio of water glass and calcium oxide.

Process features

If possible, you can prepare both shavings and sawdust with your own hands using special machines and processes, but you can also purchase this raw material in finished form and already processed.

This material is soaked in water with the addition of liquid glass. And to speed up the process of hardening and mineralization of the material, calcium chloride is added to the mass. In order to carry out disinfection, you need to introduce slaked lime.

And only after all these preparations, the mass is kneaded in a concrete mixer along with cement and other necessary ingredients. Next comes the filling of special forms with the resulting material, while it is necessary to compact the mixture with a manual rammer, a vibropress, or pneumatic or electric rammers.

Material shaping

Experts recommend making forms for blocks from boards and upholstering their walls with linoleum in order to make it easier to remove building blocks. With manual tamping, it is done in layers, made of wood and iron-studded tamper. After the block is aged for a day, and then removed. Then it is left under a canopy for full refinement to the desired strength. In this case, it should be covered while still wet for hydration.

The optimal temperature and time for this is 15 degrees and 10 days. At lower temperatures, longer holding times will be required. it is important not to allow the mark below zero and do not forget to periodically water the blocks with water.

Expanded clay blocks

You can do it yourself and. First of all, for the manufacture of expanded clay blocks, you need to prepare a special form. You can run it from a regular board. The form is made from a pallet and two halves, resembling the letter "G". The boards must be treated on the inside with machine oil or beaten with tin. At the ends, special closures should be installed that will not allow the form to disintegrate or change size.

It will be a little more difficult to make a form with void formers for expanded clay block with voids, but this is offset by the economical consumption of expanded clay mixture. If desired, schemes for them correct manufacture can be found in articles on the subject.

The size of the form can be arbitrary and depend on the construction tasks, but the following sizes are more often used:

• 39x19x14 cm;
• 19x19x14 cm.

In addition to the form, you will need the following tools:

• Master OK;
• shovel;
• buckets;
• container for primary mixing of components with water;
• metal plate for final mixing of expanded clay concrete mass;
• water, sand, expanded clay.

Component ratio

To do quality mix, have to take:

• 1 part of the binder - cement grade not lower than M400;
• 8 parts of expanded clay (approximately 300-500 kg / m³). It should be added that about 5 kg of expanded clay fraction from 5 to 20 mm is placed in a bucket of 10 liters;
• sand - 3 parts without admixture of clay and other components;
• 0-8 - 1 part water.

Experts advise adding a teaspoon of any washing powder for greater plasticity of the solution.

Proper mixture casting

With a trowel or shovel, you need to carefully pour all the components into a container of water and let this mass settle for some time. It is then transferred to a metal sheet and brought to the desired state by thorough mixing.

After ready mix placed in a mold and subjected to vibration special device that generates vibrational impulses. You can get by with tapping with a shovel on the sides of the form.

After two days, the rammed block must be carefully released from the mold by unhooking the shutters on it, and in this form it should be left to harden for another 26 days.

A standard expanded clay block weighs from 16 to 17 kg, and it takes about 1.5 kg of cement, 4 kg of sand and 10.5 kg of expanded clay. Having made some simple calculations, we get that each block costs about 25 rubles with average cost ready-made expanded clay for 30 rubles without delivery.

Aerated concrete blocks

For the preparation of blocks of aerated concrete, the following components are needed:

• Portland cement;
• quicklime;
• sand;
• water;
• a small amount of aluminum powder.

You will also need:

• concrete mixer;
• forms for blocks;
• metal strings, in order to cut off excess mixture from the top of the molds;
• shovel;
• measuring utensils;
• buckets;
• individual protection means.

The components are taken in the required proportion: quicklime and Portland cement - 20% each; quartz sand— 60%; aluminum powder - less than 1% and slightly more than 9% - water. All this is mixed in a mixer until the consistency of sour cream.

Molds for casting aerated concrete experts advise to purchase ready-made, preferring metal and plastic molds. And the finished mixture is poured into such forms, filling it in half, since gas formation will raise the mixture to the rest of the mixture in some time. And if the mixture rises above the edges, then the excess is cut off by the strings.

The mixture in the forms is aged for 6 hours. In this state, the blocks will already be ready for cutting into smaller pieces after the formwork is removed from the precast molds. When cutting, it is necessary to form gripping pockets and grooves for the fingers.

Next in industrial environment the blocks are autoclaved to cure, but these machines are very expensive, so if you make your own, the blocks will cure naturally.

The removed and cut blocks are kept indoors for another day before they can be stacked one on top of the other. Such material can be used to build a house only after 28-30 days, when the blocks gain their final strength.

Whatever method is chosen for preparing material for building a house with one's own hands, in any case, the construction of buildings from it will come out cheaper, and in some cases also much more environmentally friendly, stronger and more comfortable than using industrial material.

To make a cinder block with your own hands is quite within the power of a skilled builder. At a relatively low price for this species building materials, the desire to save money sometimes turns out to be predominant, and craftsmen make attempts to cast the required number of concrete blocks on their own. This is especially true for those who require elements of a non-standard shape or size.

What the cinder block is made of is clear from its name: the main component of the mixture is coal slag. The binder in the mixture is building cement. The secret of neat and durable blocks is the correct proportion of components. The most famous and tested is the following composition of the cinder block:

• coal slag (blast furnace or from the state district power station) - 7 parts;
• major river sand- 2 parts;
• gravel or crushed stone with a fraction of 5-15 mm - 2 parts;
• cement M400-M500 - 1.5 parts;
• water - 1.5-3 parts.

The amount of water in the solution may be different depending on the method of manufacturing concrete parts. When pouring into conventional cinder block molds, without pressing, it is recommended to use a mixture of a more liquid consistency to fill the corners of the matrix well with it.

When vibrocompressing, a plasticizer for concrete (or PVA glue) can also be added to the mixture at the rate of 5 g per 1 cinder block. Considering that 36 pieces of finished products of a standard size (40x20x20 cm) will come out of a bag of cement, it is easy to calculate the amount of additive. The plasticizer makes concrete more resistant to moisture and reduces the risk of cracking in the product during drying.

Block Forming Methods

Form for cinder blocks

How to make a cinder block with your own hands, if special equipment is not used? With a small amount of construction (garage, bathhouse, etc.), the required number of concrete elements can be made by pouring the mixture into ordinary forms, similar to the formwork for the above-ground part of the foundation. The only difference will be that inside the space must be divided into separate chambers that form the body of each concrete product.

How to make a mold for a cinder block with your own hands is shown in the figure on the left. The number of simultaneously produced products may be different. It depends on the availability of boards of the required length for the formwork walls. The indicated cell dimensions (20x20x40 cm) are suitable for the production of a standard block. If necessary, you can make a formwork with cells right size(for a semi-block, for example, 20x20x20 cm or others). The outer walls of the formwork are made of planed boards desired width. Between themselves, they can be fastened with sliding grooves. On the inner sides long boards make cuts under the dividing plates. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that in assembled condition the form should have perfectly right angles at the junction of the walls and partitions. Depend on this appearance finished product and convenience for the builder himself when laying well suitable friend to other elements.

Void formers in idle time wooden form there may be glass bottles that need to be placed in the poured solution. In this case, a certain amount of the mixture will be forced out of the formwork, therefore, when using this method, the cells should not be filled to the top. After installing the bottles, you need to ensure that the solution in all cells is at the level of their edges.

In the manufacture of the matrix more complex design(picture, right) make void formers from wooden cones, fixing them at the bottom with nails or self-tapping screws. The presence of handles in this form makes it possible to move it for installation on a vibrating table.

Before pouring the composition into molds of any design internal surfaces should be lubricated with used motor oil or similar.

This will prevent the mixture from sticking to the mold and make it easier to remove when the blocks are ready. It is necessary to remove the mold with this method of making cinder blocks with your own hands no earlier than 24 hours after filling the cells. Finished products must gain strength for another 1 month before use. After that, walls of buildings, fences, etc. can be erected from the cinder block.

How to make a vibrating machine?

Making a cinder block at home by casting takes a lot of time. The quality of the obtained products is somewhat inferior to that which can be obtained using the vibrocompression method. But this requires special equipment - machines for cinder blocks, which you can buy or make yourself.

most accessible and easy installation- vibrating table. To create such a machine for cinder blocks with your own hands, you will need:

• boards or metal profile for the base;
• metal plate or wooden shield;
• motorcycle damping springs;
• two-shaft electric motor with a power of 0.5-0.7 kW.

To build a machine for the production of cinder blocks with your own hands, you will also need working tools: a drill, a grinder or a saw, welding machine etc. Using the drawings (figure), House master able to assemble a frame for the base, on which 4 springs are fixed. On top of this structure it is necessary to lay a solid wooden shield or metal plate. The worktop can be fixed to the springs by welding or threaded connection. The dimensions of the base and table top must be sufficient to accommodate the existing molds, or the matrices themselves can be made to fit the existing slab.

On the underside of the tabletop, it is required to firmly fix the electric motor. In order to create a vibration of the desired frequency and strength during its operation, eccentrics must be installed on the motor shafts. These can be metal plates with a hole displaced from the center or pulleys, on which a small load is welded from one end.

The purpose of these parts is to unbalance the uniform rotation of the shaft and create vibration during its operation, which will be transmitted to the countertop, mounted on springs. The size of the eccentrics or the weight of the load will have to be selected individually, depending on the engine power and speed.

The form with the filled solution is established on a table-top. When the engine is turned on and the vibration it produces, the solution thickens and settles a little. Making cinder blocks with your own hands using such a machine requires filling the matrix with a small excess. Pressing on a vibrating table is carried out until the concrete laid in the mold acquires strength, which makes it possible to remove the formwork and transfer the products from the countertop to the drying place. For a homemade machine, this time is best determined experimentally.

For a more complex model of the machine, sheet metal 2-3 mm thick and a welding machine will be needed. In this case, it is necessary to weld a box of the required size with cells or a single box from the metal, for the manufacture of 1 block. The dimensions indicated on the drawing (figure) allow you to obtain a product of a standard size of 20x20x40 cm.

Cinder block making machine

The box does not have a bottom and needs to be installed on a flat base (metal plate). On its side (short) sides, for stability, you can additionally weld 2 pieces of pipe, longer than the width of the box. This will allow the structure not to tip over during vibration. Edges are welded onto the upper perimeter, which allow you to accurately fill the matrix.

In this case, the void formers are located on top and are metal parts that are round or square in cross section. Their width should become smaller as they go deeper into the cavity of the matrix, forming an inverted cone or pyramid. This is necessary for easy removal of the box from the product. The void formers are fixed on the walls of the box with a narrow metal strip.

Inside the box, at a distance of 20 cm from the lower edges, 2 stops for the pressure plate are welded. The plate must have handles for removing it from the product and slots in the form of a section of void formers.

To outside the matrix is ​​attached to an electric motor with eccentrics. When the engine is running for 5-15 seconds, the mass of concrete poured into the box is pressed. The pressure plate is gradually lowered onto the stops.

When the limiters are reached, a home-made machine for making a cinder block with your own hands must be turned off, the plate removed, and the box vertically raised. Transfer the product to a flat area for drying and curing.

In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently.

Wall blocks have many properties:

They are strong, durable, have improved frost resistance and fire resistance. There is also another property of wall blocks - an increase in the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises due to the thickness of the wall blocks without reducing the quality of heat transfer. That is why wall blocks are confidently replacing the usual materials for construction. Wall blocks will help you get high-quality building material at low cost, therefore - quality construction. A house built of wall stones will be comfortable and warm, and will also save a lot of money. Moreover, the cost of the wall blocks themselves compares favorably with other building materials. Wall blocks create a feeling of comfort due to the fact that they have a heat-resistant effect, so in a room made of wall blocks you will be cool in summer and warm in winter. That is why the cost of heating is one third less than in houses built of brick. Also positive property wall blocks is that the walls created from them are much lighter than the walls erected from bricks, thus creating less load on the foundation. This means that there is a guarantee that your house will not only be warm, but also durable and less prone to collapse. Plus, as exponentially, your costs for the delivery of wall blocks are reduced. Due to their weight (wall blocks are much lighter than, for example, bricks), the volumes of delivered material will be greater.
So, why should you choose wall blocks for building your house, the pros:

guarantee warmth, comfort, frost and fire resistance

increase usable area rooms due to their small thickness

do not reduce the quality of heat exchange in the room

installed in a short amount of time

at their price and at the cost of their installation costs are much cheaper than other building materials

DIY blocks

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles. Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the form, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped with roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the thickness of the walls is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215mm without voids can be called cold, 250mm - semi-warm, 510mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to guess wooden corks for fixing door and window frames.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, general form for multiple blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. To make it a little easier, I first made a manual concrete mixer from a two-hundred-liter barrel. Its axis of rotation is shifted by 10 cm relative to the center. I welded crosspieces inside. Thus, due to the eccentric rotation of the barrel and thanks to the crosses, good mixing of the mass was ensured. For 8 revolutions of the barrel, the solution was ready.

This way I made 500 blocks. They were enough for laying a warm barn measuring 6.2x4 m and an extension to it - a cold shed.

Despite the fact that the blocks are much larger in size and mass than ordinary red bricks, the masonry techniques and the tool kit remain the same. The dressing of masonry in the corners and on straight sections of the walls is also observed. At the beginning of the laying of blocks, it is desirable to make a red brick belt on the basement or foundation (after waterproofing). It should protrude outward from the base by 30-40 mm, protecting the latter from getting wet.

Building blocks by yourself

The building block of the standard sizes is very convenient in work. The masonry goes pretty quickly, but on the other hand they are not too heavy. In addition, the walls will turn out to be standard sizes, that is, 200 or 400 millimeters.
So, the easiest way to make a mold for blocks is from a cement-bonded particle board of at least a centimeter thickness. You can also take sheet metal. To be honest, almost any material will do, but when choosing, it is important to consider how durable the form will be, whether it will be saturated with moisture, how convenient it will be to get ready-made building blocks out of it, and so on. To be guided in the choice of material for forms, first of all, should be logic.
Of course, in order to make enough blocks with your own hands, one form will be extremely small. It is better to immediately make about five or ten forms, which will be enough to start. Further, if necessary, the number of forms can be increased.
As for block mortar own production, it is recommended to use one of the two options.
The first option allows you to make blocks of the so-called "cold concrete". To do this, take a traditional solution, which is prepared from sand and cement in proportions of one to four. In other words, for one part of good Portland cement, you need to take four parts of sifted building sand.
Warm concrete is prepared from cement, sand and expanded clay. The proportions in this case will look like one to four to one. That is, for one part of cement, you need to take about four parts of expanded clay and only one part of sand.
Making building blocks is not a difficult process. Forms are filled with a solution, the excess solution is removed with a trowel and I try to level upper part block. By the way, forms should be set to flat surface so that the solution diverges as evenly as possible under the influence of gravity.
After a few hours, the blocks can be carefully removed from the molds and laid out for complete hardening. They harden within a day, after which homemade blocks stacked on pallets for storage or carried directly to the construction site.

Building blocks at home

Nowadays, you can buy building blocks at any building market and building materials store. Their range today is very large, you only need to make a choice and you will be delivered your order directly to your home. How to make building blocks at home
But you can go the other way - you can make building blocks with your own hands. So, consider below the basic principles of how to make building blocks at home yourself.

First you need to decide what size you plan to make the building block. The following size is considered to be the running size today - 400x200x200 mm. Blocks of such geometric parameters not heavy, they are easy to stack when building a wall. With the help of such a block, you can easily make a wall of two types with a thickness of 200 mm and a thickness of 400 mm.

To create a form with which building blocks will be made by hand. We recommend that the form be made into several blocks at once, this will significantly speed up the work process and the prepared concrete will be better used. You can make construction at home as full-bodied and with cavities. A mortar for blocks is made using cement and sand, while the proportion must be maintained 1 to 4 (this is the so-called cold concrete). Also, you can add expanded clay, sawdust, slag or glass to the concrete mixture (such concrete is also called warm concrete). Many people ask themselves: how to make building blocks yourself in such a way that they do not stick to the form and have a flat and smooth surface. outer surface. To do this, you need to do the following - apply machine oil to the walls of the mold, and even better working off.

When pouring building blocks at home, the form must first be filled by 45-50%, then the concrete should be compacted and the mixture should be uniformly shaped. After that, you can fill the form completely again, tamp, level the top side, remove the remains of the concrete mixture from the brick form and let it harden. The concrete mixture should be allowed to harden for about 30 minutes. Then you carefully remove the form and you can carry out the next cycle of work. The blocks will fully harden only after 24 hours. Care should be taken to ensure that the blocks are protected from direct sun rays and rain.

So, you already know how to make building blocks yourself at home, now you can safely get to work. And if you make a form of at least a dozen blocks for one run, then a day you are quite capable of making 120-150 blocks without outside help

In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently. Our article will tell you how to make building blocks with your own hands.

Determine in advance the desired dimensions of the future building block. The most common and most popular size: 400x200x200 millimeters. Such a building stone is not too heavy, but the thickness of the wall can be 200 or 400 mm (depending on personal preference).
For future building blocks, it is necessary to design forms. It is advisable to use a cement-bonded particle board with a thickness of 10 mm and sheet metal (2-3 mm). A stone mold can also be made from wood that has been sanded on the inside.

Make the form into one or more blocks (this will speed up the process of making building stone). Do-it-yourself blocks can be hollow or solid (depending on personal preference), which affects the design of the mold.

For "cold concrete", prepare a mortar for blocks from cement and sand (proportion 1: 4), and for "warm concrete" - from cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1. Then fill the "raw" block shape halfway. Tamp the solution (you can use the handle of a shovel) and only after that complete the form with the missing “raw materials”.

Align the upper surface of the future block with a building rule, that is, remove excess mortar with this tool. After thirty to forty minutes, carefully remove the block from the mold, and form a new building stone in it.

For complete hardening of the solution, the blocks are carefully transported to a special place, protected from the sun and rain. The blocks will fully harden in twenty-four hours.

Lightweight wall blocks and their advantages.

In addition to the traditional material for building walls - bricks, wall block materials such as expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete and foam concrete are increasingly used in private housing construction today. What are their differences, features, advantages and disadvantages?

LEAKED CONCRETE.

Features: Expanded clay concrete blocks are made from expanded clay (foamed and fired clay), used as a filler with fractions of 5-10 mm, water and cement.
Pros: By thermal insulation characteristics superior to brick, gas and foam concrete. Resistant to moisture. High strength, frost resistance

AERABLE CONCRETE

Features: Aerated concrete is obtained by adding a blowing agent (aluminum powder) to a mixture of lime, cement, quartz sand. The material gains strength at high blood pressure and high temperature in autoclave ovens. Aerated concrete is porous both inside and outside, i.e. its porous. Products are manufactured in the factory, so the quality of products is guaranteed.
Advantages: Greater geometric dimensional accuracy, higher rates of heat and sound insulation, strength.

FOAM CONCRETE

Features: Foam concrete (non-autoclaved cellular concrete) are made from a mixture of water, sand, cement and a foaming agent. It hardens naturally in special forms. The structure of foam concrete is closed bubbles different size. Products can be produced privately, directly on the construction site. Homemade blocks do not always correspond to the declared characteristics.
Advantages: Due to the closed pore structure, moisture absorption is lower.
Aerated concrete and foam concrete have a high accuracy of geometric dimensions, which allows them to be used during installation with adhesive mixtures, rather than ordinary masonry mortar. The thickness of the seam from the adhesive mixture is 2–3 mm, and from masonry mortar- 10–12 mm. This makes it possible to make the wall almost homogeneous, as warm as possible.

The common advantage of all considered materials is:
The large porosity of the materials provides high thermal insulation properties, excellent sound insulation characteristics. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the material, the walls "breathe". The blocks are non-combustible, do not melt and do not emit harmful substances when heated. Due to their low weight, they significantly reduce the load on the foundation.

The common disadvantage of all considered materials is:
Despite the high thermal insulation performance, walls made of these materials need to be insulated. The porosity of the blocks requires mandatory protection of the walls of the building from atmospheric precipitation. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the vapor permeability of the structure.

In aerated concrete and foam concrete, an additional disadvantage can be considered low bending strength. Reinforcement must be carried out every three rows of masonry. A strip monolithic foundation or a monolithic basement is required.

How to make a wall block

Building blocks have a lot of advantages. Among them are the convenience and speed of construction of buildings, the relative cheapness of construction, and others. Wall blocks are one of the few materials with which you can build a house from scratch almost alone. If you have a lot of free time and not a lot of money, you can try making wall blocks yourself.

You will need

Cement brand M400;
- filler (expanded clay, slag, etc.);
- SDO additive (wood saponified resin);
- sand;
- shovel;
- containers for measuring and stirring the solution;
- block form.

For 1 m³ of expanded clay concrete M75:
- cement M400 - 250 kg;
- expanded clay - 1.05 m³;
- sand - 0.2 m³;
- wood saponified resin (SDO) - 0.3 kg;
- water - 0.25-0.35 m³.

For 1 m³ cinder block M50:
- cement M400 - 200 kg;
- slag - 0.7 m³;
- sand - 0.25 m³;
- lime - 50 kg;
- water 0.1–0.15 m³.

Instruction

1 Choose the type of block that suits you best

Wall blocks can be made on the basis of various binding components and fillers. Cement is used as the main component. The choice of fillers is much wider. It can be sand, expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. Depending on the type of fillers and their ratios with each other, it is possible to obtain a material that differs in strength, thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, frost resistance. In the manufacture of wall blocks with my own hands most often, slag or expanded clay are chosen as fillers. Slag and expanded clay blocks have good operational properties- high thermal insulation combined with sufficient strength - and at the same time relatively cheap. Slag can often be purchased for free or at a meager price.

2 Decide on the block brand

The strength of the building block, characterized by its brand, is determined by the relative content of cement and fillers. By increasing the amount of cement and sand relative to expanded clay and slag, it is possible to increase the strength of the block. However, it should be remembered that at the same time its thermal insulation properties are reduced. Between strength and thermal insulation, it is necessary to find a middle ground.

3 Decide on block sizes

The most common is the standard size 390x190x188 mm. However, you can make blocks of any size. Before settling on a specific size, you should determine the thickness of the wall of the building for which the blocks are intended, and then, based on it, choose the size of the block.

4 Make, buy or rent a block making machine

You can do without a machine tool by making the simplest collapsible forms (matrices) from sheet metal, wood or plastic. However, in this case, a large number of molds will be required, since the poured blocks will have to stay in the molds for some time to harden. Slag block machines, due to the presence of a vibrator, allow you to unload the block immediately after molding. If you intend to produce a large number of blocks, it is better to do this with a machine. The time gain will be huge.

5 Prepare the working mixture

Measure all the components (cement, sand, slag or expanded clay, lime) in the required proportion and mix them well in the sealing container. After that, add water with LMS dissolved in it. Depending on the moisture content of the water fillers, it may be necessary to different amount, so add it gradually, stirring and evaluating the mobility of the mixture. Don't over water. The stiffer (less mobile) the mixture, the stronger the blocks are obtained.

6 Fill the mold with the mixture

If you are using manual collapsible forms, when pouring, carefully compact the mixture in the form with a trowel or shovel - until the surface is smooth and covered with thin layer water. When using a cinder block machine to compact the mixture, it is enough to turn on the vibrator for a few seconds (5-8).

7 While the blocks are curing, keep their surfaces moist. This can be achieved by regularly watering the blocks with water or by coating them with plastic wrap. The blocks should solidify when in the shade.

Cinder block is one of the most requested materials for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is distinguished by its low cost and the possibility of its independent production at home.

Cinder block - wall stone

This building material is intended for low-rise construction. There is an opinion that if cement of a “high” grade is included in the mixture, then home-made blocks can be made solid foundation under the bath or house. However, the foundation blocks must withstand huge loads, so the blocks should be purchased at the factory, and not made independently.

Cinder blocks are:

• hollow;
• corpulent.

Due to sufficient strength characteristics, solid cinder blocks are used for cladding and construction of load-bearing walls, as well as partitions. At the same time, hollow products have good heat and sound insulation. Due to voids, raw materials are significantly saved, which means that the cost of production is much lower.

Cinder blocks are also used as an additional insulation in the construction of frames.

How to knead a solution to create a cinder block?

The name of the building material "cinder block" speaks for itself. This means that the main component of the solution will be the slag obtained in the blast furnace, which should be sieved through a special sifter (sieve).

We will need:

• 7 parts of the main filler (they will serve as slag);
• 2 shares of gravel having fractions of 5-15 mm;
• one and a half parts of cement (it is best to take the brand M 400, 500);
• about 3 parts water.

In addition to slag, other components can also act as the main element: clay, expanded clay, sand, gravel, crushed stone, gypsum and many others. It should be noted that if you have chosen blast-furnace slag as a filler, then other additives are prohibited to use. If you want to get a colored cinder block, then you can add chalk or red bricks brought to small crumbs into the solution (they should be crushed).

In addition, during the production of cinder blocks, make sure that the solution does not spread.

Name of components	Qty components	Density, kg/m3	Water absorption, %	Мрз, cycles not less than	Compressive strength, kg/cm2
Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Crushed stone, kg (m3) Water, l (depending on the humidity of the components)	500 900 (0,52) 900 (0,52) 100...200	2350	4	200	410
Cement, kg Screenings, kg (m3) Sand, kg (m3) Water, l	500 920 (0,54) 1150 (0,7) 100...200	2160	4,5	200	400
Cement, kg Sand, kg (m3) Water, l	600 1550 (0,9) 100...190	2200	5,3	200	436

Tip for obtaining durable blocks: a plasticizer must be added to the solution (you can buy it at any hardware store). Then you will get not only durable, but also frost-resistant and waterproof blocks.

When you are going to independently establish the process of creating cinder blocks, you should understand that there is no universal solution recipe. Each master, through trial and error, selects his own unique formula. If you are a beginner, you can resort to the standard.

Cinder block production methods

There are two ways to get such blocks on your site.

1. With the help of formwork, that is, a form made of lumber or steel sheets.
2. Based on the work of a special machine.

Video - Making a cinder block by hand

Video - Cinder block walking mobile machine

Video - Cinder block making machine

Tools and materials for the production of blocks:

• forms (wood or metal), or vibration machines;

  2,3,4 - pallet blanks. 5,6,7 - framing the matrix from below (corner 25x25). 8 - bar for fastening voids. 9 - void. 10 - the upper plug of the void. 11 - lower plug of the void
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

• concrete mixer;
• spatula for leveling;
• shovel for pouring mortar;
• solution.

Instructions for making your own mold

The design of the form has the following form: bottom and side walls. Between a pair of transverse boards or sheets of metal, you should fix the crossbars at the distance you need. Maintain a step corresponding to the size of the required cinder block.

Since it will be difficult to get the finished product out of the mold, the design of the container must be collapsible. For production efficiency, make formwork designed to receive 4-6 cinder blocks.

To make a mold in order to create cinder blocks, you will need:

• sheets of iron 3 mm thick;
• iron strips 5 mm (several pieces);
• cylinders, 4 cm in diameter;
• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• chalk for marking.

Stages of manufacturing a single detachable metal mold

Step 1. We mark the sheet according to the size of the blocks: we need two longitudinal sides and two transverse ones. We cut our plates with a grinder.

The width of the longitudinal plate is 210 mm, the length is 450 mm, the transverse plate is 210 by 220 mm.

Step 2 Wings, 3.5 cm high, should be welded to the bottom of the mold for the cinder block so that the mold does not travel, and a handle to quickly release the poured solution from the mold.

Step 3 Notches are made along the contour of the transverse and longitudinal walls in order to hook the mold on the longitudinally installed walls.

Step 4. We collect our form.

Step 5. To create voids in the cinder block, we make hinged cylinders. They must be welded to a plate 3-4 mm thick, which should seem to penetrate the cylinders closer to the top. We make notches on the end walls of our container to hook them.

Video - Do-it-yourself mold for cinder blocks

Production of cinder blocks using a split mold

Forms have any dimensions. Standard sizes structures 90x190x188 mm, in private construction other sizes can be used, for example, 40x20x20 cm. In order to save material, it is better to use molds with cells of 4-6 blocks and cylinders (squares) to create cavities.

A metal self-made form (detachable) has the following appearance.

Consider step by step process production of cinder blocks.

Step 1. We mix the solution in a concrete mixer.

Step 2 Pour the mixture into our mold with a shovel. In this case, the mixture is thick. You can also use a liquid solution.

Step 3 Be sure to ensure that the solution fills the container evenly. To do this, we tamp the filled solution. We control the filling of the form to the brim. Aligning upper layer using a spatula.

Step 4 If the solution is dry, then a special lid should be used, the holes in which will block the bayonets in the mold. This device will help to compact our cinder block. For liquid solution this cover does not apply.

Step 5 We move our block to an open area for the purpose of further storage. After 30-40 minutes, remove the bottom, sides and top cover. For a better extraction of the cinder block, we will beat the walls and the longitudinal strip with the cylinders on top with an ordinary hammer.

Step 6 For complete drying, we need at least a day.

Production of cinder blocks using a vibrating machine

Step 1. We knead our solution, taking into account the proportions. Particular attention should be paid the right amount water, because cinder blocks should not spread when you remove them from the mold.

kneading

In order to find out the correct consistency of the mixture, conduct a small test. Squeeze the solution in your hand: if it connects in it, and does not blur when it falls to the ground, this is a good and correct solution.

Step 2. We fill our form with a solution, with a slide.

Step 3 . We turn on the machine for 2-4 seconds, after which the loaded composition will be compacted. We level the mixture with our hands so that the iron pins (cylinders) are visible.

Step 4 If there is not enough mixture in the mold, it needs to be supplemented, the clamp is inserted and the vibrator is turned on again. The completion of the formation is evidenced by the sediment of the clamp on the limiters.

Step 5 . Our vibroform should again be switched on for 6-10 s.

Step 6 . We close the top with a lid with holes for the cylinders. And we make another ramming by raising and lowering the lid 4-5 times.

Step 7 . Then, without turning off the machine, the form is removed - it is enough to take the machine to you.

Up to 500 cinder blocks can be produced per shift using a vibrating machine.

Step 8 . We dry the blocks for 5-10 days. The complete hardening of the resulting building materials will be completed after a month, while the humidity should be high and the air warm.

Step 9. After a day, the blocks can be transferred to storage places (they will not be broken), but they can only be placed together after a week. And if you still add a plasticizer to the solution, then after 6-8 hours they can be moved and stored.

Of course, it is not worth buying a vibrating machine for a single production, but special attention should be paid to tamping when creating cinder blocks (the quality of the product depends on this process). In this case, you can use a conventional grinding vibrator, on which it is enough to place our mold with the mixture.

Video - Production of cinder blocks using a vibrator

Features of storage of cinder blocks

The received products are stored in pyramidal piles, one hundred pieces at a time.

At the same time, they fit with small intervals. It is enough for you to dry the material for a couple of months, then you can start building a bathhouse, an extension or a barn.

What are the features of the production of cinder block?

In the production of cinder blocks, special attention should be paid to drying. So, for example, any dent or unevenness will spoil the building material. Another requirement for the quality of the material is the geometry. A large number of irregularities and flaws is a prerequisite for increased costs for finishing the erected walls. Therefore, in order for the product to turn out even, it is necessary to fill the form or vibroform to the brim. Do not skimp on pouring the solution with a slide, because the vibration will shake your mixture.

For better plasticity, when mixing the solution, do not forget to fill in the plasticizer at the rate of 5 g per block. This will save the product from possible cracks, increase strength and frost resistance. To build a small bath, you can knead the solution manually, but a concrete mixer will help speed up the process. It is enough for you to buy or borrow for a while a small unit with a capacity of 02-0.5 cubic meters. m.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

Before preparing the mixture, the slag is moistened 5-6 hours before. This will allow you to better bind the grains of cement and fractions of the filler. It should be noted that if you are filling wooden or metal molds without the possibility of vibrating, the mixture should be watery.

Pros and cons of using cinder blocks

The advantages of cinder block should include:

• the possibility of manufacturing in a summer cottage or in a private house;
• drying of the material can take place both in an autoclave ( industrial production), and in the open air (with self-production);
• a cinder block building carries minimal heat loss;
• the material is inexpensive;
• the construction of the building is carried out quickly, given big sizes blocks;
• when mixing the solution, you can, by changing the proportions, give it certain qualities;
• You can produce a cinder block of any size.

Disadvantages of cinder block:

• low frost resistance, but with the use special additive they can be upgraded;
• there are doubts in terms of environmental friendliness, especially for products made on the basis of blast-furnace slag;
• As for the liquid absorption characteristics, the material has strong moisture absorption and requires special protective coatings;
• fragility (this material is clearly not suitable for the construction of skyscrapers).

1. most high strength have blocks made with the addition of cement. Next location occupy blocks of lime.
2. If small granules are replaced with part of the sifted sand, then the strength of the products will increase slightly.
3. The combination of cement and lime (or clay) in a ratio of 3: 1 will save money, which will absolutely not win back on quality.
4. Before you start pouring the solution, the molds should be cleaned and wiped. This will prevent the resulting blocks from sticking to the bottom and walls. For such rubbing, diesel fuel, used oil, or similar means are used.
5. The density of the solution is a direct indicator of the rate of solidification. The thicker it is, the faster the block can freeze. The main characteristics of the quality of cinder blocks depend not only on the production technology, but also on the choice of solution. Below are different types mixtures, the use of which demonstrates certain characteristics imposed on the material.

Video - Cinder block. Instructions for a beginner