Which bimetallic batteries are better: we compare the characteristics of which batteries are better than aluminum or bimetallic. How to flush a radiator. Hydraulic, hydropneumatic and chemical cleaning Anti-yellowing agent for bimetallic radiators
Sooner or later, heating batteries in residential areas become contaminated. As a result, their energy efficiency is significantly reduced, and especially advanced cases worsens them appearance. As a result, you have to look for an answer to the question of how to flush a heating radiator in an apartment or country house using available funds.
Instructions for cleaning metal batteries depend on many factors, among which, the type heating system, type of production materials that were used in the manufacture, configuration, dimensions, etc. Only after you have decided on all the listed factors, you can choose the right cleaning agent and the method of its application.
In this article, we will talk about those internal flushing methods that can be used to remove deposits. of varying complexity. Moreover, the methods that will be discussed in the article can be implemented by hand with minimal spending.
Purging in apartment buildings - how effective is it
AT apartment buildings, where the heating is centralized, the issue of cleaning the system from bottom sediments is solved by blowing.
Annually, before heating season, utility companies purge the system with compressed air. In some cases, instead of compressed air water is pumped in by a compressor under the maximum allowable short-term pressure.
In the process of blowing, bottom sediments from batteries and pipes rise and are washed out. In addition, in the process of such work, you can find out how strong the connections of pipes and radiators around the apartment are.
How effective is purging and can it be dispensed with without resorting to other means?
You need to understand that the purge was originally designed to clean bottom sediments from systems with cast iron batteries. Today, apartment owners everywhere are abandoning cast iron in favor of compact and energy-efficient bimetallic and aluminum structures.
Moreover, by raising bottom sediments, blowing is unable to clean up those contaminants that are deposited directly on the internal surfaces. And finally, the question of how to flush clogged radiator cells from the inside is faced not only by apartment owners, but also by residents country houses equipped with autonomous heating systems.
From the foregoing, the following conclusion can be drawn. Purging in apartment buildings is useful, but in addition, from time to time, it is necessary to clean the batteries more thoroughly, using tools specially designed for this.
Cleaning of cast iron products
Before flushing a cast-iron heating radiator, it is necessary to prepare a place outside the house where the planned work can be carried out. In addition, it is necessary to agree with assistants who will help dismantle a radiator weighing 40-50 kg, move it from place to place, and then reinstall it in its original position.
Important: Scheduled works are carried out before or after the end of the heating season, when the water is drained from the system.
Instructions for conducting cleaning works next:
- Unscrew the bottom plug with a gas wrench to let the water drain. Therefore, we immediately stock up on a ladle that will fit under the battery and a bucket into which we will pour water as the ladle is filled.
After the water is glass, we unscrew the battery from the pipes, carefully remove it from the holders and take it out into the yard. - We screw the plugs so that only the top holes remain open.
- Pour a solution of soda ash into the radiator and hot water
. The proportions of the solution can be found on the package of soda.
It is convenient to pour the solution through a funnel. The amount of solution depends on the number of sections. On average, it takes about 2 liters of liquid to fill one cast-iron section.
Leave the battery filled with cleaning solution for about 1-2 hours. - After two hours, we pick up a rubberized mallet and half-heartedly tap each section. Next, we shake the battery so that the solution starts to move.
- After that, unscrew one of the bottom plugs and drain the entire solution. Already at this stage, you will notice that instead of the initially clean solution, a brown slurry will flow, consisting of liquid and deposits beaten off the walls.
- Next, in place of the removed plug, we hermetically attach a hose, the other end of which we attach to faucet. Turn on the water and wait for it to flow from the upper holes. After the water flows out clean, flushing can be considered complete.
Tip: It is advisable to combine cleaning of batteries inside with cleaning the surface outside.
Moreover, for removing old paint to metal, a wide range of washes, gels and other similar chemicals are on sale.
Cleaning of bimetallic structures
Caustic soda - the optimal agent for the preparation of washing solutions
Washing bimetallic heaters is not much different from washing cast-iron counterparts. The only significant difference is that bimetallic structures accumulate deposits much more slowly.
As in the previous instructions, you can use a solution of soda ash and hot water. Nevertheless, we will consider the features of the use of other means that are likely to be in every household.
Tip: Considering that bimetallic structures are an order of magnitude lighter than cast iron, flushing can be done in the bathroom or in the shower room.
Of the flushing agents, the price of which is low, you can apply:
- means for removing blockages in pipes of the "Mole" type;
- means for cleaning automobile radiators;
- whey;
- 70% vinegar essence.
In addition to the listed products, in many hardware stores you can buy reagents specially designed for flushing heating systems.
Flushing instruction bimetallic radiators next:
- On the initial stage pour clean water, shake the battery and drain the contents.
- Next, fill in the chemical reagents or the previously listed funds.
- We drain the reagents after an hour and rinse the heater with hot water.
Important: Rinse inner space must be especially careful, since the remaining reagents can lead to a gradual oxidation of the metal.
Cleaning of aluminum structures
Now let's look at how to flush an aluminum heating radiator. cleaning aluminum batteries carried out not so much to remove blockage, but to prevent pollution. The fact is that aluminum is a non-ferrous metal that oxidizes less than cast iron and steel.
As a result, preventive work can be carried out no more than once every 2-3 years. However, much depends on the quality of the coolant circulating in the system.
As a rule, deposits on the walls of aluminum radiators are formed due to the fact that the content of magnesium, sodium, calcium, iron and a number of other salts is increased in the coolant. inorganic substances. This situation is typical for a centralized heating system, while in autonomous systems ordinary tap water is used as a coolant.
The easiest way to prevent such deposits is as follows - flush the radiator citric acid and clean the interior with clean warm water.
On sale there are many reagents and cleaning products made on the basis of certain reagents. You can use these products for cleaning aluminum structures with extreme caution so as not to provoke destructive oxidative processes. Therefore, before purchasing this or that product, make sure that it will not cause oxidation of the aluminum surface.
First of all, you need to ensure rough cleaning water entering the system. For this in modern boilers special filters are installed. If there is no filter, it must be purchased and installed at the entrance to the system.
In addition to installing the filter, we use reagents from time to time. Chemical reagents pour into the system, and they circulate through it, removing scale from internal surfaces.
Conclusion
Now that we know how to clean radiators, we can make our home's heating system more efficient. More useful information on the topic you will find by watching the video in this article.
Heating systems bring warmth and comfort to the house, but radiators require meticulous care. For example, modern bimetallic batteries simply need to be wiped from dust and dirt, while cast iron batteries, in addition to cleaning, need to be periodically painted.
How to properly care for radiators?
Cleaning
You can clean the batteries from dust and traces of dirt using a brush previously moistened with water. To wash away inside batteries, it is better to wrap a rag around the brush.
Another type of cleaning can be called a “wash” with a spray gun. By pouring water into it, you can easily remove pollution from inaccessible areas of the batteries. A jet of water can easily cope with this, wash away dust and dirt. The main thing is not to forget to put a rag under the section that can absorb moisture. As soon as the remaining excess water drain from the radiator, it should be thoroughly wiped with a dry cloth.
Painting
Old cast iron sections and pipes are especially in need of care. From time to time it is necessary to tint them with fresh paint. To do this, it is best to buy specialized paints or enamels for radiator batteries. Such paint is able to withstand heat and will protect your batteries from yellowing, while conventional paints, especially on water based, after the first heating day, they may bubble and peel off.
First you need to prepare the paint and brushes of different lengths. Then you should clean the batteries from dirt, remnants of old paint and traces of rust. The best way to do this is with sandpaper. Next, degrease the place of painting with acetone. And only after that you can apply layers of paint.
Gently mix the paint in the jar. Most optimal solution- apply two coats of paint, but this must be done with a break of a day between layers. Remember that Painting works carried out only in ventilated rooms!
Important: the heat dissipation of batteries depends on the selected paint. It is possible to increase it by 10-15%, if you pick up the right paint. Terracotta enamel or zinc white is best suited for painting radiators. But in no case should you take paint containing aluminum (silver). Such paint will reduce heat transfer, and if you apply too much on the batteries thick layer, it will be even worse. But silicone-aluminum paints or aluminum based on heat-resistant varnishes are quite suitable.
If you do not have time to deal with priming, it is best to use specialized paints that conduct heat. You can also easily make your own. To do this, all you need is aluminum powder and nitrocellulose glue of your choice. Mix two parts glue with one part powder. The consistency should be like low fat sour cream, if it is too thick, use a thinner to thin it out.
On batteries that are clean from dust and dirt, paint should be applied in three layers. The interval between applications is 45 minutes.
From aluminum foil it is also possible to make heat-reflecting screens, it is also glued under the wallpaper near the batteries. To make it more convenient to stick the foil, batteries are installed fiberboard sheets or plywood. This will help distribute the heat evenly throughout the room.
Bimetallic radiators, which, as the name implies, are made from a composition of two metals, began to be produced more than fifty years ago in European countries. They quickly gained wide popularity due to their reliability and operating efficiency when installed in any heating system.
Which bimetallic batteries are better to choose, and what should you pay special attention to? This question always arises for all those who decide to replace the old heating appliances for more modern options, different and high operational characteristics, and respectable appearance.
Today, the production of bimetallic radiators has been established in Russia. Domestic products are quite popular, and have fully justified themselves when installed in central heating systems.
General design principles
This type of radiators consists of two main parts, made of different metals.
Internal channels are made of of stainless steel, external heat exchanger casing made of aluminum
Their inner part is made of stainless steel or, less commonly, copper, since these metals are highly resistant to the aggressive environment of a heated coolant. Pipes made of these materials are arranged vertically and horizontally, and it is through them that the coolant circulates.
The outer part of the radiators is, in fact, a casing equipped with fins, which is made of. This metal has excellent thermal conductivity and quickly warms up, giving off heat to the premises, which is why it was chosen for the outer part of the structure.
The inner and outer parts of each section of the radiator are joined together by injection molding or spot welding. Sections are assembled into a battery using steel nipples and heat-resistant rubber gaskets, designed for temperatures up to 200 degrees. However, in addition to such batteries, there are also monolithic radiators made of the same materials.
Crimping passport pressure of bimetallic batteries different manufacturers may vary - this indicator depends on the material of manufacture of internal pipelines and dimensional parameters. If, during the pressure testing of certain models, a test pressure of 35 atmospheres was created, then they will be able to withstand water hammer, during which pressure drops reach 25 ÷ 30. This allows the use of such radiators in central heating systems, which sometimes do not differ in the stability of the coolant pressure.
Due to the high thermal conductivity, bimetallic devices turned out to be even more efficient than the familiar cast-iron batteries.
In appearance, bimetallic radiators practically do not differ from aluminum models. However, they can be distinguished by weight, because due to the steel pipe "core", bimetallic batteries are heavier than aluminum ones, by about 50%. In order not to make a mistake when choosing, you should definitely study the certificate of conformity and other accompanying technical documentation, which must be attached to the batches of products, and is located at the seller of a specialized store.
Bimetallic and semi-bimetallic radiators
In addition to bimetallic, semi-bimetallic radiators are also produced. You need to know how they differ from each other, and which ones are better.
- Bimetal devices
In real bimetallic radiators, only the outer casing of the device is made of aluminum.
Their production process consists in the fact that ready-made all-steel cores, laid in special forms, are poured under pressure with aluminum, which conducts heat well, but is not resistant to aggressive environments and high coolant temperatures. In bimetallic versions, aluminum does not come into contact with the liquid medium in any way and serves only as a heat exchanger. A design made according to this principle is ideal for installation in both central and autonomous system heating.
In some models, the core is made of copper, not stainless steel - such batteries are usually used for installation only in an autonomous heating system, where special antifreezes are used as a coolant. Steel pipes, even stainless ones, with some similar antifreezes "behave" not so adequately.
Water is not the only possible type coolant
For dusting the circuits of an autonomous heating system, in addition to water, other liquids are also used - this may be due to the peculiarities of the operation of the system or the requirements of the boiler equipment. More about - in a special publication of our portal.
- Semi-bimetallic batteries
For semi-bimetallic radiators, the internal channels are made of different metals. So, vertical pipes can be stainless steel, and horizontal pipes can be aluminum, as in conventional aluminum radiators. There is also the reverse. In a word, they do not “pull” on full-fledged bimetallic ones.
Be careful - instead of full-fledged bimetallic radiators, there is a chance to purchase lower-quality and reliable semi-bimetallic radiators
This type of battery is not suitable for central heating, since the coolant there often does not differ high quality and fashion to contain a sufficiently large concentration of alkali. In contact with aluminum, such a composition can cause corrosive processes, which, among other things, will "capture" steel elements installed in combination with aluminum. In addition, the differing thermal expansion of these metals can even cause the elements to move when subjected to extreme high temperatures, which is fraught with the occurrence of leaks and even more serious accidents.
Such radiators are often confused with bimetallic ones - outwardly they are generally indistinguishable. Not really understanding the intricacies, they are often preferred because of the more affordable cost. However, as can be seen from the description, they differ quite significantly in their reliability.
In extreme cases, a semi-bimetallic type of radiator can be installed in an autonomous system. But still, if it is decided to make the heating of a house or apartment as reliable as possible, then it is better to refuse semi-bimetallic radiators, and opt for real bimetallic samples. Be sure to consider this when buying.
Monolithic or sectional bimetallic radiators
As already noted, collapsible bimetallic radiators are produced, which consist of sections fastened together with nipples, and monolithic non-collapsible ones.
AT sectional version each of the sections inside the horizontal pipe segments has a multidirectional thread on both sides, designed to screw in the connecting nipples with sealing gaskets.
This design is the main significant disadvantage of sectional batteries, since these joints can be damaged from, for example, low-quality coolant, which significantly reduces their service life until the next preventive intervention. In addition, leaks most often occur at the joints of the elements, under the influence of high temperatures and high pressure in the system.
To avoid these unpleasant moments, another technology for the production of bimetallic radiators was thought out. It lies in the fact that first a one-piece welded copper or steel manifold is made, which fits into special form and pressurized with aluminum. These bimetallic batteries are called monolithic.
And this bimetallic radiator is a monolithic assembly
Both types have their own strengths and weaknesses.
The lack of a collapsible scheme has already been mentioned. And the main advantage of such batteries is that if one of the sections is damaged, you won’t have to change the whole one completely, since it is quite enough to make a bulkhead - to replace or simply remove only the failed element.
In the event of any leakage in a monolithic radiator, it remains only - they have practically no maintainability.
Selective comparative characteristics radiators of both types are shown in the table:
Often the decisive criterion is the question of cost. The fact is that the monolithic type of radiators has more high price than sectional, and this difference can be up to 20%.
When using monolithic bimetallic batteries, it will not be possible to vary the total thermal power- reduce or increase the number of sections. Therefore, before purchasing them, it is necessary to carefully calculate how much power is needed to heat a particular room. It will not be difficult to choose the right option, since monolithic bimetallic radiators are produced in different sizes both in length and height.
When choosing between sectional and monolithic batteries, the features of the heating system should also be taken into account. For example, if they are planned to be installed in an apartment of a high-rise building, then it is better to choose a monolithic type of device, since the pressure in the heating system of high-rise buildings is often quite high, water hammer is not excluded. and connecting nodes of sectional batteries may not withstand it and leak.
Selection criteria for bimetallic radiators
When choosing a specific model, in addition to the characteristics already mentioned above, there are other points that will directly affect the quality of the heat exchange devices and the duration of their operation.
- The design of the radiator must withstand water hammer and high pressure. This is especially important to consider when installing them in central system heating. Be sure to pay attention to the test pressure indicator.
- The battery material must be inert to the aggressive environment of low-quality coolant with increased level alkali or acidity. This factor also mainly applies to batteries installed in multi-storey buildings.
- The material of manufacture must also resist the occurrence of electrochemical corrosion.
- Radiators must be resistant to mechanical impact, that is, their outer casing must have sufficient strength. To check the quality of the aluminum used ( aluminum alloy), you need to try to bend the rib with your fingers. In a poor-quality product, the ribs bend easily, and sometimes they can even crack or break.
- Internal ribbed channels should be made of one metal, and it is better if it is high-quality stainless steel.
- Wall thickness inner pipe should be at least 3÷3.5 mm.
- Gaskets are an important element in the sectional design of the battery, since the reliability of the connections will depend on their quality and elasticity, so they are most often made of rubber or silicone. Check quality sealing ring You can bend it several times with your fingers. If the gasket is rigid and inelastic, then it is clearly not enough for a long time.
Particular attention to the quality of the nipples - they must be made of durable steel
- High-quality steel nipples should be installed in the sectional radiator, in which the internal “antennae” will not break when the sections are twisted and the thread will not “gobble up”. The fact that the nipple is of poor quality can be recognized by the softness of the metal of manufacture.
If this element is of poor quality, then when the battery is unwound or twisted, the key hooks will definitely break off, and then the nipple will have to be sawn with a grinder, and then its parts removed from the section holes.
- The width of the front part of the radiator fin should not be less than 70 mm, since if this parameter is smaller, the heat transfer from the device is significantly reduced. It is best if the size of the section in the section is 80 × 80 mm - such parameters are guaranteed to give high heat transfer.
Optimal depth and width of sections - about 80 mm
Some manufacturers use a marketing ploy - they reduce the price of their products by reducing the size of the sections, which significantly reduces the overall thermal power of the device. Therefore, when choosing a radiator, it is advisable to have a tape measure or ruler in your pocket - so that you can control the optimal size.
- For a high-quality battery, the thickness of the protruding ribs should be at least 1 mm.
If the thickness of the fins is less than 1 mm, then this most likely indicates an insufficient quality of the product, since the strength of the radiator casing is reduced in it, and the heat transfer is not so high - due to the low heat capacity of too thin heat exchange plates.
But on this model, the thickness of the ribs is clearly underestimated - it's worth considering ...
- You also need to know that if a manufacturer saves on high-quality nipples and gaskets, this indicates that the entire product, with a probability close to 100%, is not of high quality, and it is better to immediately refuse it.
- You should not buy devices for which the manufacturer gives guarantee period only 1 ÷ 2 years, despite the fact that the service life of bimetallic sectional batteries is 25-30 years, and monolithic ones - even about 50 years. Such a small guarantee suggests that the manufacturer himself is not confident in his products.
Advantages and disadvantages of bimetallic radiators
positive their qualities are as follows:
- Bimetal radiators fit perfectly into modern interiors both residential and office space.
- This type of radiators is often produced with different color design. If not found desired color, self-coloring is allowed. For this process, special heat-resistant paint formulations are used that can withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees.
- Smooth surfaces and rounded corners make these radiators safe enough from the point of view of the possibility of injury, and therefore suitable for installation in children's rooms.
- The advantage is a fairly long guaranteed service life, subject to the choice of high-quality radiators and their correct operation.
- Bimetallic radiators can be installed in any heating system, even with low-quality coolant.
- This type of device, unlike other modern radiators, is able to withstand high intra-system pressure and temperatures up to 130 degrees.
- One of the key advantages of such batteries is a very high heat transfer.
- Such devices, as a rule, are equipped with a thermostat, which allows you to set the desired temperature for their heating. Its adjustment occurs almost immediately, due to the small cross-section of the channels.
- The number of radiator sections for each particular room can be easily calculated independently using the mathematical formula that will be given below. Correct calculation will help to avoid extra costs when buying radiators, their installation and further operation.
Spending half of his life in heated rooms, sooner or later a person will glance at the heating radiator. Getting ready to build a house or make overhaul in the apartment, you will have to think about whether you chose the right radiator. Or change your mind before it's too late. Put cast-iron ones familiar from childhood, or, like a neighbor’s, steel ones. And in the office - aluminum. But there are also bimetallic radiators, what is it? Let's try to understand, because there is still time.
But first, you will have to briefly familiarize yourself with other types of radiators, this will help us further.
Here they are bimetal competitors:
cast iron
- grandfather of radiators. But there is still gunpowder in the flasks. It heats up slowly, but it takes a long time to cool down, which means it keeps heat well. Interruptions in heating do not scare. Grandpa is not afraid of rust, God forbid everyone has a lifetime. Fifty years. The lagged appearance has recently been replaced by a modern, elegant one.
Disadvantages - fragile, afraid of shock and heavy (one section weighs 8 kg), requires reinforced brackets.
Steel
radiators are more modern, the appearance is already more pleasant. They warm up quickly, the volume of water circulating in them is small. The main advantage is the ability to withstand high water pressure, which is important in central heating conditions. Let's remember this, as we remember the disadvantage - a small heat transfer.
Aluminum
radiators - even more modern look. Has a lot of advantages.
It weighs little, they are mounted on less durable brackets, compared to cast iron and steel.
It warms up very quickly, does not corrode. And, remember this, it has the highest heat transfer among all competitors. Disadvantages - short service life and low operating pressure. Let's note this as well.
The design of the bimetallic radiator.
So, here it is at the top of the chain of development of radiators - bimetallic. As the name suggests, the construction uses two metals. Most often, steel and aluminum. There may also be a combination of copper and aluminum, but more on that later.
What gives a combination of two metals? See how the radiator works.
Its vertical and horizontal channels are made of steel, so the radiator has the advantages of steel competitors (remember) - the ability to withstand high water pressure. But the disadvantage is that aluminum is designed to compensate for the small heat transfer, from which the casing of the product is made.
Advantages inherited from steel and aluminum radiators. Steel core increases service life and working pressure. The pressure indicated by the manufacturers is from 20 to 35 atmospheres. Aluminum provides high heat transfer and corrosion protection, and adds lightness to the structure. The service life is 20 years.
Radiators are also produced, in which only vertical channels are made of steel, that is, water flows through an aluminum tube. They are cheaper than the previously described model, but their working pressure is not the same, the lack of a classic aluminum radiator is manifested. They are called semi-bimetallic or pseudo-bimetallic
Details about the characteristics.
The parameters of bimetallic radiators are indicated in the product data sheet. Let's read it, having previously dealt with the terminology.
Heat dissipation.
The amount of heat that one section of the radiator gives off at a water temperature of 70 ° C in it.
For cast iron and steel batteries, this figure is not more than 100 watts. The leader has aluminum sections, the figure is 200 watts.
For bimetallic radiators, the indicator ranges from 160 to 180 watts. Not bad.
The limiting temperature of the coolant. The ability of the radiator to withstand the declared temperature during its entire service life. Usually it is 90°C.
Operating pressure.
We have already talked about it. Let's figure out what this indicator gives.
For a low-rise residential building, with its own boiler for a working pressure of 2-3 atmospheres, it is better, of course, to take an aluminum one. And it's cheaper and less heat transfer. Well, except that the service life is smaller.
But in the central heating system, the pressure reaches 10 atmospheres. The aluminum will break. We'll have to put bimetal. Working pressure up to 35 atmospheres. But carefully read the passport, there may be other numbers. Especially if the aluminum channels are horizontal.
Lifetime.
Everything is clear from the name. Of course, bimetallic does not compete with cast iron radiator with a lifespan of 50 years. But 20 years is not bad, compared with an aluminum competitor.
Aesthetic look.
The lightness and elegance of the design, the elegance of the forms of a bimetallic radiator, will give a hundred points ahead of cast iron and steel, but it can easily be confused with aluminum.
Number of sections, center distance
. The center distance shows how many millimeters the lower radiator manifold is from the upper one. Standard values, 200, 300, 350, 500, 800 mm. The manufacturer produces batteries assembled from an even number of sections, usually from 4 to 12. But a qualified craftsman, if necessary, will sort out the battery for you, connecting any number of sections together. A variety of sizes and thermal power of radiators will allow you to solve any problem of space heating.
Disadvantages of bimetallic radiators.
Unfortunately, this section is indispensable. Main disadvantage is the price. The most expensive segment of the market. You will have to pay for quality.
Another disadvantage is that the core of the radiators is steel. Therefore, they rust, especially when air enters the system. This disadvantage is overcome by replacing the steel core with copper or stainless steel. However, this will further increase the cost of the product. It's up to you to buy any option.
Calculation of the number of battery sections.
For each square meter of area, 100 W of heat power is required. Example, corner room, two windows and area 30 square meters. Power required (30 X 100) + 10% = 3300 watts. Ten percent we threw on corner room. The same must be done for the first and last floors. We chose a radiator with a power of 170 watts per section. Thus, we need 20 sections, 10 for each window. We take with a margin. Better in winter once again ventilate than to freeze.
Our calculation is very approximate and is valid only for multi-storey residential buildings. If you are building your own detached house, then contact the designer. The specialist will make a calculation taking into account the thermal conductivity of your home.
Installation of heating radiators.
Installation of any devices must be carried out by a specialist. Bimetallic radiators are no exception. The radiator must be fixed strictly horizontally in level, at a distance of 200mm from the floor and from the window.
Each radiator must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane, a device that bleeds air from the heating system. Before installation, the system must be flushed to prevent dirt from entering the radiators.
Mounting order:
we mark the mounting points of the brackets, taking into account the requirements of a particular model,
we strengthen the brackets with dowels,
we install the radiator on the brackets with horizontal sections between the columns of the sections,
We connect the radiator to the heating circuit with a tap.
Here we will say a few words about increasing the efficiency of the radiator. First, during installation, you need to make sure that there are no burrs in the internal channel. In the future, it will serve as a dam for water pressure. This is especially true for soft copper cores. Secondly, wet cleaning dust increases the heat dissipation of the device. Thirdly, you can not place the battery too close to the wall or floor. If the pure white color of the radiator has faded or turned yellow, it is not worth repainting it annually, thermal conductivity can drop to almost zero under a thick layer of paint.
Did you know that by placing a reflective foil screen on the wall behind the radiator, you can seriously increase heat transfer.
It is also necessary to say about the quality of water in the heating system. Pseudo-bimetallic radiators, like aluminum ones, suffer greatly from poor-quality water in the system. And very hard water can clog bimetallic products with scale.
In central heating systems, the water is already properly prepared for operation. In your home, you will have to take care of this yourself. We purify the water with a filter, let it settle, reduce the hardness with the help of chemicals (for example, AquaShield softener).
Manufacturers of bimetallic radiators.
Good pseudo-bimetallic batteries offers Russian company Rifar. Its products, having won Russian market went for export. Produces seven varieties of radiators. Popular models are Rifar Flex, Monolith. The color of the radiators is white. The number of sections in the battery is from 4 to 14 pieces. Rifar gives a guarantee on products from 10 to 25 years.
The German company TENRAD offers a fully bimetallic design in its products.
Innovative solutions of German engineers are protected by patents, including in Russian Federation. TENRAD BM radiators are produced with center distance of 500 and 350 mm connecting pipes.
Reliable batteries are offered by the Italian company Global Style. Specifications their products can be called the benchmark in the industry. These models include radiators Global Style Extra and Global Style Plus. But you have to pay for elitism, Global Style batteries are not cheap.
Radiators are produced with a center distance of 350 and 500 mm, with the number of sections from 6 to 14 pcs. The manufacturer offers a guarantee of 10 to 20 years.
The British company BiLUX offers highly efficient bimetallic radiators.
Models are available with center distances of 200, 350 and 500 mm. The design of the batteries is highly reliable, the manufacturer's warranty is 10 years.
Heat in the house is impossible to imagine without a good heating system. To maintain comfort, you need to sometimes take the time to care for the batteries. Modern bimetallic radiators require only that they be cleaned from time to time from dust and dirt. But on old cast-iron batteries, sometimes you still need to renew the paint. We will tell you in order about how to properly care for cast iron radiators.
cleaning
You can wipe the radiators with a regular long-handled brush. To do this, soak the brush in water and clean out all the dirt. Next, gently wipe all the elements of the radiator by wrapping a dry rag around the brush.
Even more convenient way cleaning radiators - flushing the battery with a spray bottle (nowadays, small household water spray bottles are sold in hardware stores in large assortment, for every taste").
Process
Type water into the sprayer, put more rags (rags) under the battery or place a basin. With a sharp jet of water, you will perfectly wash away dust and dirt from hard-to-reach areas of the battery. After washing, wait until all the water has drained and wipe the battery again with a dry cloth. That's all!
Painting
Batteries of the old type require painting from time to time. For this purpose, it is necessary to use a special enamel or paint for radiators and heating systems. modern paint for radiators, when dried, withstands significant temperatures (as a rule, resistance to temperatures of + 100ºС), and thanks to special additives white enamel on a painted battery will not turn yellow.
Process
Prepare small brushes (including long-handled ones) and/or paint sprayer (see paint or enamel package for recommendations on choosing paint tools).
Clean the surface of the battery from dust, scrape off rust and flaking old paint. Degrease the surface with acetone. Those parts from which you will remove the lagging old paint, sand with sandpaper.
Mix the enamel thoroughly, then paint the battery in accordance with the recommendations on the paint package (often the surface should be painted in two layers with a break of 24 hours).
Important: all work with varnishes, paints and enamels must be carried out only in a well-ventilated area or on fresh air. Put on before painting rubber gloves and goggles for the eyes.