Fences for beds: what to make sides and borders in the garden from (20 photos). Beautiful and convenient: do-it-yourself fences for garden beds

Growing plants in the country is not an easy task that requires knowledge and a responsible approach. To beautify the site and provide favorable conditions beds are used for the development of vegetable and other crops. Find out their types and features of the organization with your own hands.

If you plan to organize beds in the country with your own hands, familiarize yourself with the features of the process. First, understand the concept: a bed is a partially isolated small bed on which, under suitable conditions, you can grow different cultures providing the right individual care.

When organizing beds, several points are taken into account:

1. The location depends on the specific crop being grown. Some plants require good lighting, while others feel better in shading. When choosing a location, you need to take into account the relief of the site. If the place is located in a lowland, moisture will accumulate in it, which is unacceptable for some cultures. When placing, ensure free access for convenient and unhindered care. To do this, do not place the beds far from water sources and do not arrange them at short distances from each other, otherwise it will be problematic to walk between them.
2. The form is determined by the preferences of the owner of the cottage. It can be standard rectangular or square, but it is possible to organize beds with unusual shapes in the form of figures. The territory also affects the shape, because the beds should organically fit into it.
3. What plants will be grown? They need individual care, taking into account the characteristics of a particular species, so the characteristics of the culture affect the choice of location in the country, the size of the beds. And some vegetables do not get along, so they need to be planted separately at a considerable distance.
4. Skills. If you are planning to organize beds on the site for the first time and do not have the knowledge, choose unpretentious cultures and simple garden beds. Deciding to create complex structures, you risk making mistakes and reducing or spoiling the crop.

There are several types of beds, and they should be considered in detail and separately.

Bed-box

A box-bed is a convenient and popular method of arranging a garden that allows you to create a separate isolated area for a particular crop, giving the area a neat, aesthetic and well-groomed appearance.

You can make a bed-box by preparing the place and fencing it with shields. To mark the boundaries and arrange the walls, sheets of polycarbonate or plastic, boards, slate (wave, flat) are used. It is advisable to choose a material that is practical and resistant to moisture, able to serve one season and maintain strength.

Do-it-yourself organization includes several stages:

1. Border designation. Draw them or arrange the pegs, taking into account the shape and size of the beds.
2. Wall installation. They are placed in the ground, in which furrows are preliminarily prepared. The soil must be compacted to ensure the stability and strength of the structure.
3. Fill in the earth and organic matter, alternating layers.
4. Plant your plants.

Note! Preparing for the winter of beds-boxes involves their collection. In the spring, the structure is erected, the soil is loosened and planted with the selected crop.

Garden beds with drainage

Drainage beds are relevant and necessary if the garden is located in a lowland, and clay or swampy. Excess and stagnant water are detrimental and provoke decay of the root system, so it is necessary to ensure timely constant drainage and optimal gas exchange.

To organize drainage with your own hands, follow the instructions:

1. Designate a landing site.
2. Remove a layer of soil with a thickness of 50 to 60 cm.
3. Sand is laid at the bottom of the formed pit, the thickness of the layer of which will be at least 20-25 cm.
4. Lay sawdust, humus and a layer of soil suitable for growing the selected plant on top of the sand.

High

high beds should be done in a lowland or heavily swampy area: raising the soil will prevent moisture stagnation and ensure timely drainage. Suitable option for gourds, potatoes, zucchini. The height can be from 30-35 cm to 70-80.

Step-by-step device of a high bed in the garden:

1. Prepare the box. It is possible to build it from plastic, boards, bricks, metal.
2. A metal mesh is installed at the bottom of the structure, providing protection against rodents. A geotextile is laid on top of it, preventing the germination of weeds.
3. Lay drainage, including expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles. The thickness of the layer is not less than ten centimeters.
4. Prepare the soil by disinfecting it and treating it from pests. Fill the box with soil, filling most of it and leaving sides about 5 cm high.

Good to know! High beds can be organized without boxes using bulk trapezoids or ridges. A compost layer is laid on the soil, which ensures the rise of the soil. Next, the earth is poured, landing is carried out. But the beds will last only one season, because during the winter they will sag under the weight of snow and get wet when it melts. If bear insects are common in the region, it is better not to use compost: pests quickly populate it and multiply, destroying the crop. The rise is provided by an embankment of soil.

vertical

A vertical bed will save space in the garden and will become great solution if the area is small. But the option is suitable for crops with a not very developed root system: strawberries, lettuce, cucumbers, herbs, tomatoes.

For organization, it is allowed to use boxes, special racks or containers. Can arrange vertical garden from improvised materials, making containers from plastic bottles and placing them on homemade frame assembled from boards or a metal profile.

French

In 2018, beautiful and aesthetic French beds are relevant. Distinctive features- concise geometric shapes, strict planted rows and paths between plantings. Guardrails can be made from finishing materials (terrace board, paving slabs), bricks. You can do it by planting leaf lettuce around the perimeter of the beds, undersized view greenery. Elevate zones if the ground is waterlogged or the site is frequently flooded.

English

lovers original ideas will appreciate the English beds, allowing a mixture of cultures. , garden area with trees and a garden do not have strict boundaries and form a single landscape design. One section may include flower beds, fruit crops, vegetable planting.

Spaces are left between the beds for free movement and comfortable care. The territory should not look neglected and abandoned, so carefully look after the garden, make sure that the land is free of weeds and fence the beds around the perimeter, for example, with stones or bricks (it can be irregular).

lazy

lazy beds suitable for beginners or very busy summer residents, as they do not require complex organization and time-consuming preparation. No need to prepare recesses and dig the soil to a great depth. It is enough to weed the ground, freeing it from weeds, slightly loosen it, then land. The spaces between the bushes are filled with mulch, which ensures the preservation of moisture and the prevention of its rapid evaporation, as well as protection from weeds. This greatly simplifies care and helps to collect good crops.

Advice! Lazy beds are ground and devoid of fences or raised and surrounded by borders.

Smart

Smart beds are not only original and beautiful, but also practical and productive. This way of organizing will create optimal conditions cultivation and increase yields.

Do smart beds it’s not easy on the site, because you need to raise them and fill them not with ordinary earth, but with special mixtures suitable for specific crops, consisting of compost, fertilizers, clean nutrient soil, organics. Landings are protected by reinforced high sides. It is advisable to raise the site itself in order to protect it from stagnant water and pest attacks.

Warm

Warm beds will allow you to get an early harvest and will be a good alternative to greenhouses. Planting heat will be provided by organic matter, which releases energy in the process of decomposition.

Arrangement is carried out at the end of autumn and includes several steps:

1. Remove a layer of soil about 50 centimeters thick. You can also make a box and install it in the prepared recess. A metal mesh can be laid at the bottom of a pit or container to protect against moles.
2. Lay on the bottom pre-scalded and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate sawdust. This layer should have a thickness of at least 15-17 cm.
3. Lay organic matter consisting of fallen leaves, turf, bird droppings or manure. Compact this layer to a thickness of 15 centimeters.
4. Lay organic matter that rots quickly, such as prepared compost. This layer is approximately 10 cm thick.
5. Lay a nutrient mixture that includes six parts of peat and a part of sand and sawdust. Add here a tablespoon of ash and superphosphate, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, zinc sulfate. The fertile substrate has a thickness of 20 cm.

With the first rays spring sun organics will release heat, warming the soil up to 40-45 degrees, which will allow crops to be planted much earlier. So you can grow plants with a small root system: cucumbers, strawberries, herbs, radishes.

garden fences

Arrange beautiful and neat beds and zone country cottage area fences will help. Try to organically fit them into the landscape design and do it correctly in order to protect the plants from negative influences and create an aesthetic appearance of the garden.

Used for fences different materials: polycarbonate, slate, metal, wood (boards or logs), stone, rods and pegs. lovers interesting ideas improvised means are used: plastic and glass bottles, car tires, old hoses.

Below are the characteristics of the main types of materials used for the organization of fences.

metal

Metal fences are quite durable, but they can be exposed to moisture for a long time and become rusty, which will not only worsen appearance sides, but also negatively affect the composition of the soil. thin metal subject to deformation after mechanical influences. Metal also heats up in the sun.

Galvanized

Galvanized railings are good performance: do not corrode, serve for a long time, retain properties, differ high strength and resistance to attack by pests and fungi. The beds will be reliably protected from wind and other natural phenomena, pests. Ready-made fences made of galvanized steel are light, easy to assemble, and have different shades.

A big minus is the high cost of structures. They also quickly warm up and transfer heat to the surrounding soil, raising the temperature of the soil and negatively affecting the root system.

Plastic

Plastic fencing is a modern solution. They are light in weight, are not attacked by pests and high humidity, serve for a long time and have affordable price. Light plastic will not get very hot in the sun. But the fences are subject to mechanical stress.

Approaching responsibly to the organization of beds in the country, you will equip the garden, ennoble the territory and get excellent harvest. Good luck to all gardeners!

Many summer residents suffer due to the fact that on the site groundwater are too high. Excessive soil moisture is not suitable for all plants, many develop poorly or die altogether. You can solve the problem by making high beds. With such an organization of landings, it is possible to control the degree of humidity. And a nice bonus to such a decision will be more early term maturation and a much larger yield.

Advantages and disadvantages

In addition to solving problems with waterlogging, high beds in the garden allow you to sow or plant plants 2-3 weeks earlier: raised above the ground, they warm up more actively due to the fact that the sun heats the walls. This is also facilitated by the decomposition processes occurring in plant waste, which make up a significant part of the backfill. Therefore, such beds are also called warm. If you put arcs on such a bed and cover it with spunbond or other similar material, then the crop can be harvested even earlier.

The device is more problematic in regions with a hot climate. The task in this case is not better to heat the earth, but to keep it from overheating. But this can also be solved: use materials with poor thermal conductivity, for example, wood, to fence high beds. For best effect you can make double walls, between which you can fill up, for example, sawdust, lay foam, or you can leave an air gap - best thermal insulation. outer wall in hot climates, it is better to paint with white paint or whitewash. It is known that light surfaces heat up less. In this case, it will be possible to save the root system from overheating: in the south, the earth sometimes warms up very much and the higher the plant is, the cooler it will be. And over the beds you can stretch the same covering material. It not only retains heat, but also protects against overheating.

Raised beds can also be a good outlet for infertile lands. It is more convenient to lay out the imported soil in the beds, and not distribute it throughout the site. Maintaining fertility contributes to the compost layer, which is located under the layer of earth.

The problem of arid regions is also being solved. In this case, the fence for the high bed is coated from the inside bituminous mastic or it is upholstered with a film, a rolled waterproofing material is laid on the bottom (on the grid) (the roofing material will quickly rot, so something from the modern type of waterproofing is better). Complete waterproofing cannot be achieved, but to keep moisture inside in sufficient quantities - yes.

Carrots - one to one. The best on a high bed, although the same variety was planted on a regular one

As you can see, with a balanced approach, almost any problem can be solved. There are few shortcomings in high beds, but they could not do without them:

• In most cases, you have to make a fence, and these are costs.
• The complexity of the process. Again, making fences takes time and also moves a lot of earth and plant debris, which is hard work.
• In rotting leaves, branches, bark, bears and other similar living creatures feel great. You have to fight them.
• Fertility has to be maintained by updating or completely replacing the "stuffing".

That's all the shortcomings. If you decide to arrange high beds, be prepared for considerable volumes works. But the harvest will be many times greater. For testing, you can make one or two beds. Then decide if you need them or not.

Dimensions

In one area there are very high beds and not very…

So, the dimensions of the high beds:

• Height - from 20 cm to 50-60 cm. Here, see what a difficult task is. The higher the bed is raised, the easier it is to process it - to bend less. But the earth and the rest of the "stuffing" will need more. Another point: if a small bed in height can be under the snow and will be covered from severe frosts, then the high one will freeze through: the sides will also be open. For those ridges where annuals are sown, this does not play any role, but for perennial strawberries, say, this is a problem. Therefore, the height is chosen based on these considerations. According to the experience of many gardeners for strawberries optimal height- 20 cm. Then we can hope that she will not freeze out.
• Width - from 60 cm to 1.2 m. Choose a distance that makes it convenient for you to process the bed. A distance of 60-70 cm is chosen if the approach to the garden is only on one side. If you can get to it from both sides, you can make a meter or more. It is important that the middle is processed without much stress.
• Long. Here everyone chooses based on the configuration of the site or their desire. There are no recommendations at all.

So that the bed is not too high, part of it can be deepened: dig in 20-30 cm, and already put walls on top. The removed soil will go to backfill (there is often simply not enough land), and the substrate from the lower rough layers can be made thicker. And in order to minimize the cost of maintaining such a bed, you can.

How to fence high beds

You can use anything that can hold the ground. The most durable curbs are made from brick, stone and concrete.

But the brick costs a lot, it takes a long time to fiddle with concrete. A concrete fence is made according to all the rules: first, the formwork into which the reinforcement is laid, then it is poured with concrete and they wait until it sets. But the service life is impressive - decades.

Fences for beds made of concrete are the most durable and will never "float"

A brick and stone fence is also folded according to all the rules: on a mortar with dressing. To reduce the consumption of bricks, the walls are placed in half a brick. And so that the earth does not move it, the rows are reinforced with a mesh.

But even in this case, you will need to install through the meter supporting pillars. If your soil is viscous, heavy, often waterlogged, such walls can be squeezed out. Therefore, put wooden or metal supports that will fix long walls or make small beds, as for

Fence for high beds made of expanded clay concrete blocks

They also make fences for high beds made of galvanized metal and slate. Slate can be used second-hand, you can buy a new one, wave or smooth - it doesn't matter. Cut the sheets into strips of the required width. There is no need to fear that it is harmful. In slate, asbestos is contained in a bound state, and it does not dissolve in water. It is harmful when it is sawed: the dust rises and enters the body through the respiratory tract. To reduce exposure, wear a respirator and wet the incisions.

They make plastic garden fences. Changed siding? Use it. There are old plastic panels - they are in business. But for plastic, a rigid base is needed. They make it from a metal mesh of thick wire.

Grids can become the basis for pebbles or pellets. Only in this case, a double frame will be needed, inside which stones or some other material are poured. This technique is called "gabion" and not only fences for garden beds are made from it, but also fences. But so that water does not seep through the walls from the gabion beds, the inside of the box is lined with a dense film.

The most popular fencing is wood. You can use boards, timber, logs. Wood is good for everyone, except that it rots.

And since all the conditions have been created in the high beds to activate this process, destruction occurs quite quickly. You can slow down the process somewhat by painting the boards or by impregnating them with a bioprotective compound. But there is still no guarantee against destruction.

But the material can be used cheap, and sometimes even junk: the remains after construction, slabs, old logs, pallets, etc. If desired, you can even make a fence out of branches. Only the bark is desirable to remove: it is under it that there are many larvae and woodworms. Although...they will also process the wood residue that you lay on the bottom of the backfill. But too many of them are also not needed, so, probably, it is still better to remove the bark.

From the same branches, only freshly cut, you can make a wicker fence. And it will also need to be lined from the inside with a film: to keep water and earth inside.

You can even use straw. It is tied into small bundles, which are interconnected with a wire. It simply cannot be cheaper, but it keeps water and temperature well. The only disadvantage of this option is that such a fence will last a maximum of two seasons, but rather one. But it can then be used as one of the layers.

There are high beds without a fence: the so-called bulk. The soil in them is poured in the form of hills.

To improve drainage, branches are laid inside such a ridge. To reduce the height of the bed (for example, under tomatoes), it is slightly deepened, throwing the soil to the side. After laying the branches, it is covered from above, often there is a need for additionally imported soil. If you can’t choose the row spacing deeply.

The disadvantage of this kind of garden: when watering and during rains upper layer soil is washed away. Therefore, they began to make boxes - to avoid washing out the soil.

Layers of high beds

Framing is only a small part of the job. You still need to fill the received box. It must be said right away that the thickness of the layers depends on the height of the bed that you have chosen, so if any values ​​\u200b\u200bare given, then only approximately. In addition to the size of the beds, the choice of plants affects the thickness of the layer, for example, the fertile one: 5 cm is enough for someone, and much more is needed for someone.

So, what to pour into a high bed - layers from bottom to top:

1. Fitted to the bottom metal grid with small cell or layer. You can put cardboard. Mesh and geotextile - protection against rodents and moles. Cardboard plays about the same role, but it is less effective.
2. Large wood residues: thick branches, branches, even chocks and bars. This layer serves, firstly, for drainage, and secondly, moisture accumulates in the wood. The more arid the climate in your area, the more wood you need. Moreover, the following wood layers too.
3. Shredded small branches, bark. Other coarse plant residues will do: corn stalks, straw. Their mission is also twofold. They store water, and when decomposed, they release heat and nutrients. But when using corn trunks and straw, keep in mind that the bed will soon sink: these remains quickly rot, but the yield will be high, and you can add fertile land on top.
4. Paper, thin cardboard. It is usually lined with a thin layer. Most often used packaging cardboard, because glossy paper not suitable, as well as newspapers: the lead base of the paint is not at all what you need to fertilize the plants. If there is an old unnecessary burlap (natural), you can lay it.
5. A layer of plant residues: foliage, grass, semi-decomposed sawdust. Be careful with sawdust: they strongly acidify the soil. So sprinkle them under plants that love acidic soil, or neutralize acidity by sprinkling them. good layer ash.
6. Fertile land.

In the last two layers, you can add a good portion of mature compost, as well as sprinkle deeper layers with it. This will speed up the “readiness” of the high bed for planting.

When is the best time to plant and what to plant

It is better to fill a high bed in the fall. During this period, there will be enough “material” and during the winter the processes inside will gain momentum. In this case, you can plant plants in the spring and hope for high yield. It can be done in the spring, but there are unlikely to be any significant differences in yield: the processes have just begun and will not be able to have a noticeable effect on the fertility of the backfill. Although you will definitely feel the difference in the amount of water for irrigation: much less water is required.

One of the high bed options: metal mesh and reinforced polyethylene film

Plant alternation

In the year of the device of a high bed, plants requiring high fertility can be planted on it: cucumbers, zucchini, zucchini, pumpkin, any kind of cabbage, eggplant, tomatoes, Bell pepper. The next year, you can plant greens - spicy-aromatic and leafy. Root crops feel good in the second year.

After harvesting the second crop, fertility must be restored. If the contents of the bed sagged, in the fall they fill up with good earth mixed with mature compost. If there is nowhere to fill up, remove part of the top layer (on a compost heap or in another box as part of the backfill) and replace it with fresh earth with fertilizers.

Raised bed for strawberries

It differs only in that covering material is spread over the finished “pie”. Holes are made in it, in which plants are planted. This option leads to the fact that moisture evaporates in minimal quantities, and weeds do not grow in the aisle. The second option - mulching the earth also works well, but evaporation is more intense.

Features of strawberries are that its roots are located mainly on the surface. Therefore, the fertile layer can be small. But this same feature leads to the fact that when severe frosts she might die. Although there is a process of decomposition inside the high bed, warming up the soil, if the bed is without snow and not covered for the winter, it may root system may freeze.

Raised bed for cucumbers and tomatoes

In its structure, it is no different. Is it only because they need poles and crossbars or stretched wire around the edges in order to be able to tie up bushes of tomatoes or lashes of cucumbers.

DIY high beds

Most often, questions arise not when laying layers in high beds, but when making a box. Since women often do a lot of gardening, right up to making fences for garden beds, many points may not be clear to them. To clarify the most difficult ones, we present photo reports of making a box from boards and slate - the most common fences.

From the boards

Several options for how to make high beds from boards were in the photo above. The main snag is usually in the connection at the corners. The easiest way is to overlap them: just put one to the other at 90 ° and knock it down with nails. But there are aesthetes who all strive to do the right thing. And that's right - cut down two boards at an angle of 45 ° and connect them like that. It is this option that will be shown in the photo.

To make it convenient to fix the fence on the ground, vertical bars or pieces of board are nailed in increments of 1.2-1.5 m, the length of which is about 20 cm more than the selected bed height.

The lower end of the bar or board needs to be sharpened - it will be easier to hammer the fence into the ground. Then we take a miter box or circular saw, and cut off the edges at a 45° angle. Putting two boards together creates a perfect 90° angle.

For strong connection with inside corner set the bar, to which we nail the boards.

Here's what happened. Only he lies "burdens" up. They are driven into the ground

It doesn’t take long to make a fence for high beds made of wood, but it’s even easier to connect the boards end-to-end, and nail metal corners for strength (pictured below).

From logs

It is not more difficult to make a similar box from hewn logs. For example, this option: two long sides from logs, and short ones from pieces of boards.

Whitewash the finished fence: both pest protection and a more attractive look.

from slate

When making beds from flat or wave slate there are also questions about how to fix it. The easiest way is to dig in. But this is uneconomical: you will have to make the stripes wider by at least 10 cm and still there is no guarantee that the slate will not “float” in the spring. In the muddy earth, it will simply be squeezed out with a mass. You can fix it, but extra time and effort.

Therefore, most often corners or pipes are driven in from one or both sides of the sheet, which clamp the slate and prevent it from deviating strongly. In the photo, the corners are driven in only from the outside: from the inside, the mass of layers of the high bed will press, so that the fence will not fall inside.

The joints of the two sheets are insured with a special welded plate. For reliability, they can be bolted to a wooden bar attached from the other side.

A piece of reinforcement with a welded plate - for insuring the junction of two sheets flat slate

Another option is to make a frame. Attach a bar or a corner to similar racks with welded plates - for whom it is cheaper. And to this frame, attach the slate cut into strips (it holds well with nails, but it’s easier with self-tapping screws).

Frame from a bar in a fence for a high bed

By the same principle - with guides - they make beds from plastic panels and others similar materials. As you understand, especially virtuoso skill is not needed here. The main thing is to keep well.

If you have not yet had time to dig up ordinary earthen beds in your country house, try modern and original ways garden equipment. A modular garden implies the obligatory fencing of the beds and the presence of paths between them. You can fence and fill the beds in different ways.

Miniature garden of Natus

Such an organization of space for growing greenery can be an excellent compromise between the desire to relax in the country and the desire to grow something with your own hands. Natusa arranged it like this: “The paths are laid with agrotex, and small gravel is on top - the sixth year in perfect condition, no hassle. But this is more suitable for fenced beds.

Rice. one. border tape does not allow rubble to crumble on the beds. A photo Natusa.

Rice. 2. Color combinations of different green crops create decorative effect. A photo Natusa.

Rice. 3. Despite the small size of the garden, there is enough space for everything: garlic, onions, lettuce, dill, parsley. A photo Natusa.

Minus the design of the tracks with crushed stone: the likelihood of crushed stone getting into the operator and into the lawn mower itself.

Budget fencing of a flower bed made of wood and plastic bottles from noparapone

The labor costs for the manufacture of such a fence are high, but everything is completely free, says parapone:“A couple of years ago, from the construction of a house, we had different-sized blocks of wood - round pieces of wood with a diameter of 8-10 centimeters. We sawed them into pieces 30-50 cm long, covered them with drying oil and dipped them halfway into melted tar. Next, they took ordinary plastic bottles, cut off the neck, drilled 2-3 holes in the bottom so that the water drained. Here, in these half-bottles, logs were inserted with the “tar” end down and the bottles were dug into the ground around the flower bed. It turned out very well. Plastic bottles and tar (I think it can be treated with impregnation, but it's expensive) protect the chocks from moisture. Excess moisture escapes through holes in the bottom. It is better to dig in such a way that the edge of the bottle is a few centimeters above the ground. If I did it now, I would cover the chocks not with drying oil, but with multi-colored paints - it would be brighter and more beautiful. And it is better to take chocks of different lengths - it looks more interesting. By the way, such a fence holds the sprawling earth perfectly. There is no photo from our site, but I found something similar, the principle can be understood.

Rice. 4. Photos from open sources on the Internet.

Budget fencing flower beds from the remnants of logs from Linek

linek acted even simpler: “And I persuaded my husband to file “pancakes” for me from the remnants of logs, and this is what happened now (I already pulled out the same-year-old ones).” The disadvantage of this method is the fragility of the fences.

Rice. 5. Circles dug in about halfway. A photo linek.

Paving slab fencing by zzzlata

If you have a few pieces of figured tiles left from the construction of the paths, then you can make such modular beds. You will also need sand. The tile serves as both a fence and paths for the approach.

Rice. 6. Photo zzzlata.

Minus: it is difficult to lay paving slabs evenly enough so that all the protrusions coincide, but everything is fixable, since the tile is not fixed rigidly, but is placed in a row on the sand.

If there is no time, effort or desire to make fences for a modular garden on your own, you can order ready-made metal fences for garden beds at the factory. Nath writes: “Two workers worked. Plus sensitive management of us, the owners. Done in 2 days. Paths between such beds Nath designed paving slabs several types.

Rice. 7. You can arrange the beds not only in even, strict rows, but also with such interesting patterns. A photo Nath.

Rice. 8. Minus: if the paths between the finished metal beds are decorated with sand, then after heavy rain or watering, the outer part of the sides will get dirty. A photo alisiak13.

Do-it-yourself galvanized beds from Ivolga17

Galvanized fencing will cost less than ready-made metal beds, and look no less decorative. Ivolga17 has lawn grass growing between the boxes, which allows you to keep the aisles and sides clean and gives an elegant look. The functionality of this method is also on top, writes Ivolga17: “Some people think that the earth dries out quickly in galvanization. In practice, I have found that this is not the case. We come and water only on weekends.”

Rice. 9. Decorative effect is enhanced by a competent approach to combining vegetable crops. A photo Ivolga17.

Rice. 10. Bright color accents look spectacular at the very beginning of the garden. A photo Ivolga17.

Beds with corrugated fencing from Tigra-NSK

Another option self-manufacturing metal fence beds offers Tigra-NSK: “My beds are made of corrugated board + the final rail to it, height 15-20 cm, width 100 cm, length 7 meters. Paths - tiles 50 cm. The size of the garden is 2 acres.

Rice. 11. “They decided not to make very high beds, they combined it with the philosophy of narrow rows.” A photo Tigra-NSK.

Rice. 12. “We didn’t actually raise the bed, but lowered the path, so it was more convenient for my husband to install the profiled sheet and lay the tiles. Then he already did the filling of the beds. A photo Tigra-NSK.

Technical details of the work Tigra-NSK: “The invoice says - galvanized corrugated board painted from steel 0.45 (white) 100 cm wide - 203 rubles / meter + final rail 36 rubles / meter (this is what is put on top of the corrugated board so as not to get hurt on sharp corners ). Then we cut the corrugated board into three parts of 33 cm each, dug in a part and left 15-20 cm on top. Soil was also taken out under the paths, covered with sand 20 cm and tiled on top - 200 rubles / sq.m. The corrugated board was cut with a grinder. Fastened with rivets and screws. The fences themselves and the laying of tiles are not long and relatively easy, we spend most of our time excavating, delivering sand, laying, digging.”

Rice. 13. “It is better to bend the sheet itself at the corners, and we cut the upper element with a grinder and fasten it with a self-tapping screw.” A photo Tigra-NSK.

Rice. 14. “The material is docked periodically along the length of the bed, the sheet is overlapped on the sheet and fastened with a self-tapping screw, as well as the upper element. In this variant, no excess material, beds of any length, any shape. A photo Tigra-NSK.

Rice. 15. Harvest from such a bed. A photo Tigra-NSK.

Triangular beds with a wooden fence from also mom and Alena22

About the advantages and disadvantages of such beds tells mom too: "First, having seen enough beautiful pictures in country magazines, I decided to make high beds only for aesthetic reasons. Really, my husband did. And only then did I understand practical benefits. Firstly, we used to dig a garden with a walk-behind tractor, and my husband is a busy man until you wait for him. Now I am one bed at a time, slowly, with a pitchfork, I don’t even dig, but loosen it, because during the laying of the beds I added sand and well-rotted manure, the earth is still very loose. Last year, I sowed beets in one of the beds, there were seeds left, for the sake of experiment, I decided to plant them nearby just in the ground. The difference is amazing. First, the tops, and then the fruits on the high bed were twice as large, and they sprouted earlier. Some carrots were up to 30 cm. The only inconvenience is that the earth dries out faster. Have to water more often. It is not difficult to process, they are also tripartite, so I process them from each side to the middle. I also remembered from the shortcomings: closer to autumn, when watering, the water began to seep under the boards, apparently, the earth sat down.

Rice. 16. Beginning of summer. “We treated the boards with a primer against decay. The beds are 15 centimeters high (the width of the board). A photo mom too.

Rice. 17. Midsummer. “I plan to put black agrotex between the beds and cover it with rubble.” A photo mom too.

I also received an excellent harvest in a modular garden with triangular beds. Alena22: “I also decided to make high beds last summer and did not regret it! Work has been drastically reduced. I have beds from 30 cm boards. I made cucumbers for cucumbers warm bed, took out the ground, laid branches, last year's grass, 10 cm leaves, and sprinkled earth on top - the cucumbers turned out great! 1 acre has been set aside for a vegetable garden. Every year I plant cucumbers without vertical support, but I don’t pin them to the ground.”

Rice. 18. The paths between the beds are laid with rubble. If you add marigolds, calendula and marigolds along the edges of the beds, it will not only be very beautiful, but also useful for the soil and growing vegetables. A photo Alena22.

Modular garden with rectangular beds Tatiana

Tatiana bypassed the problem of pebbles from the paths between the beds elegantly: she simply launched a wide, winding road paved with tiles around the garden. Dumping between beds Tatiana very beautiful: “At first I wanted to sow grass there, my husband persuaded me to use gravel and was right, it is much more convenient. The paths between the beds were made wide, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allows us.”

Rice. 19. The arrangement of the modules is also unusual, the beds are arranged with a shift, which makes the garden area modern and interesting. A photo Tatiana.

Manufacturing technology of high beds from bagira123

Bagheera's thorough approach123 is dictated in-depth study production of high beds and the desire to use only the most environmentally friendly and natural materials.

Rice. 20. The height of the boxes is convenient for the summer resident, it can be processed without leaning too much. A photo bagheera123.

The internal design and composition of the filling of the boxes was not chosen by chance, all layers are thought out. Bagheera123 writes: "I have side walls upholstered with old linoleum, due to which moisture is retained, and not absorbed into the boards. I make watering more plentiful. The top fertile layer of the earth is removed about 50-60 cm deep. Then to the bottom - cardboard, raspberry branches, garden debris, straw, everything that lies in the compost heap, humus, manure is possible (you need not rotted). The whole "sandwich" is laid with cardboard. Then the fertile layer returns. The hill that you got above the soil level, you enclose with boards. Under the cardboard favorable environment formed, it absorbs and is moist for a long time. This is very good for earthworms. Not every cardboard is suitable - you can not use it with a film. We need boxes, such as cigarette boxes, egg racks - blank cardboard without printing inks. My husband even puts cardboard in layers in a compost bin and spills it on top: it turns out a kind of lid that clogs the smell, and it’s useful and humid for worms that carry out their processing in a dark, humid environment.” But it is impossible to grow strawberries on such a high bed in the conditions of Siberia, writes Bagira123: “Strawberries were not lucky: I did an experiment, in the first year in the spring I planted 20 strawberry bushes in a high bed, during the winter it froze safely, although there was a lot of snow.”

Mini-garden with flat slate beds from hell

If your site is flooded in the spring, then this method will be a real salvation. On 0.25 acres heck arranged a magnificent modular garden of 25 beds meter by meter: “A slate sheet is 110 by 175. If you divide side 175 into 5 parts, you get 35 cm each. Approximately 10 cm is buried, the rest is the height of the beds. I cut off an extra 10 cm from a length of 110. I put the boxes at a distance of about 35 cm from each other and marked the entire garden around the perimeter with a curb. I deliberately did not make beds of large volume, and if they are built according to a 5-year cycle, everything in them will burn out. Therefore, I use the technology of 1.5-year-old beds: from autumn I bury grass on a bayonet, unripened compost (depending on crops, in some spring), release the compost heap - I pour all the rotted compost from the compartment into the beds, clear the paths, in the spring on the 20th of March in the snow I sprinkle the ashes, cover with a black film, fixing it with tape to the slate, and the soil is ready by May 1. Each year the crops are shifted one row to comply with crop rotation. I mulch with agrotex black and beveled lawn grass».

Rice. 21. “The caps are made for 5 beds - I plant watermelons, melons, zucchini, squash, pumpkins early. To prevent the cap from being blown away by the wind, there is a stretch. A photo heck.

Joints between two sheets (corner) heck fastened like this: “They cut the corners from galvanization - and into bolts with nuts, 2 corners per joint, 8 per bed, 200 corners for everything, 400 bolts and nuts, 800 washers.” She calls the main advantages the cleanliness of the row spacing during operation and the fact that the beds do not erode.

Rice. 22. "The paths are covered with old lutrasil, covered with rubble, the rubble is covered with wood chips." A photo heck.

For strawberries heck“I made a separate plantation 175 cm by 5 m, also from flat slate, a little lower, and a hose for drip irrigation didn't get out of there. I mulched everything with mowed lawn grass on a layer of newspapers. Watered every 3 days, but plentifully. The lawn is fenced with galvanized tape, and marble from expanded clay too. Flower garden near the pond from the lawn as well. The tape is dug in at 10 cm, sticks out from above to the height of the backfill layer.

How to make beds from boards in the country to get not only a well-groomed neat garden, but also practical benefits? Checkout garden plantings with your own hands, the easiest way is with the help of wooden borders.

This is what homemade beds from boards look like

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden beds

The disadvantage of wood is rapid deterioration, especially with constant contact with water and earth. However, if the material is treated with protective antiseptics, the service life can be extended by 10 years or more.

What wood for boards to choose

Any boards for fencing beds can be used: slab, timber, edged material, lining.

Step-by-step instructions for making beds from boards

The choice depends only on how much the buyer is willing to spend on the design of the beds.

1. Oak and ash. High strength and durable material, with excellent rot resistance. However, they are also expensive.
2. Larch. Great choice- larch has high strength and resistance to a humid environment.
3. Cedar. Wood conifers the best option for a wooden garden bed in the country. Good value for money and high quality.
4. Pine. Pine boards they are inexpensive, but do not have a long service life.
5. Acacia. Sufficiently strong acacia boards can be used for arranging beds.

Wood processing and protection

To extend the life of a wooden bed, the boards should be treated with protective compounds:

Dimensions of the beds from the boards

Everyone chooses the shape and size for the beds according to their taste and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse or plot that allows. There is general recommendations according to the size of the fence, at which garden bed will be most efficient:

• width from 90 to 120 cm;
• height from 15 to 50 cm.

The length of the fence can be any, however, with a large length, it is desirable to provide the bed with additional supports. Bed width the most important parameter. It is best to organize the area so that there are no more than two rows of crops in the garden. Firstly, with such a planting, all seedlings will receive enough sunlight and air. Secondly, for too much wide bed difficult to care for and water.
The height of the beds is chosen arbitrarily, as long as caring for it is not difficult.

Scheme with the dimensions of the beds from the boards

Depending on the type of soil and type of crop, the following advice is given on the height of the plant fence:

1. If the soil in the country is fertile, the bed can be low 15-20 cm. If the soil is stony or unsuitable for planting, from 30 cm. Some gardeners make the height of the beds up to waist level so as not to bow down when working.
2. The height of warm compost beds should be at least 50 cm. High beds with compost will reliably protect the roots of plants in the spring from unexpected frosts.
3. For early ripe crops of radishes, lettuce, onions, it is better to use beds above 20 cm for their rapid ripening.
4. If it is planned to grow potatoes in the beds, their height should be at least 40 cm.

Installation of a simple box of boards

The design of the fence for the beds is quite simple and can be easily done by hand. To work, you will need simple equipment and materials:

Instructions for making a box for beds

• boards - 2 short of the same length and width, 2 long;
• wooden posts made of timber, pointed on one side - 6 pieces;
• drill and screwdriver;
• wood screws or nails;
• shovel;
• hacksaw;
• a hammer;
• tape measure and level.

Work order:

A wooden garden bed of a simple design is ready. You can fill it with earth and plant fruit vegetable crops.

Do-it-yourself raised or raised bed

Raised beds have many advantages over traditional beds:

With all the undeniable advantages, high beds also have disadvantages:

1. It will take, albeit elementary, but carpentry skills and knowledge to build a raised bed with your own hands.
2. High beds dry out faster than classic ones, so if there are problems in the country with enough water for irrigation, such beds can become a problem.