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Plant hippeastrum (lat. Hippeastrum) belongs to the Amaryllis family. There are about 90 types of hippeastrum. The name of the flower consists of two roots of the ancient Greek language, meaning "horseman" and "star" in translation. Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis, but you should know that beautiful amaryllis (the only representative of the genus) grows naturally in southern Africa, and hippeastrum grows in the tropics and subtropics of America, in particular, in the Amazon. Amaryllis and hippeastrum are relatives belonging to the same botanical family, but representing different genera. Hippeastrum was introduced to Europe in the 16th century, and in 1799 the first hybrid of the plant appeared - Johnson's hippeastrum.

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Planting and caring for hippeastrum (in brief)

• Bloom: Aug. Sept.
• Lighting: bright diffused light (south, southwest or southeast windows).
• Temperature: 17-25 ˚C.
• Watering: at the beginning of the growing season - sparse, with the appearance of a peduncle before flowering - plentiful, but not excessive. It is recommended to use the bottom watering method.
• Air humidity: common for residential areas.
• Top dressing: from the beginning of the growing season - 1 time in two weeks with liquid mineral fertilizers for deciduous plants, and from the moment the peduncle appears - in the same mode, but with solutions of mineral fertilizers for flowering plants.
• rest period: from October to January.
• Transfer: once every 3-4 years after flowering or before the start of the growing season.
• Reproduction: seeds, babies and dividing the bulb.
• Pests: scale insects, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs.
• Diseases: peronosporosis, burn fungus, red rot.

Read more about growing hippeastrum below.

Hippeastrum flower - features

Hippeastrum flowers - bulbous perennials. The rounded, sometimes conical hippeastrum bulb consists of a short thick stem and closed scales. The size of the bulbs, depending on the species, ranges from 5 cm to 10 cm in diameter. At the base (bottom) of the bulb is a bundle of cord-like roots. Hippeastrum leaves are linear, grooved on the surface, keeled below, 50-70 cm long, 4-5 cm wide, arranged in two opposite rows. In some varieties, the leaves may be purple in color, but they are mostly green. An umbrella-shaped inflorescence of 2-6 bisexual flowers 13-15 cm long and up to 25 cm in diameter is formed on a cylindrical, hollow, leafless peduncle 35-80 cm tall. The flowers, funnel-shaped or tubular, are located on long petioles, the color of the flowers is very different: dark red, bright red, orange, pink, white, etc. The fruit is a tricuspid capsule, spherical or angular, in which small hippeastrum seeds ripen. Germination of freshly harvested seeds is almost one hundred percent.

Home hippeastrum has several features, which you need to consider if you decide to grow it:

• varieties with light and white flowers form few full-fledged seeds;
• in summer time hippeastrum is best kept in the garden, dug into the ground;
• the timing of flowering hippeastrum can be adjusted by timing it to certain dates - this is very convenient, given that blooming hippeastrum - lovely gift replacing an expensive exquisite bouquet;
• each hippeastrum flower blooms for only ten days;
• for distillation, you need to use only large bulbs in which a large supply has been accumulated nutrients.

In the photo: Hippeastrum flowering

Hippeastrum care at home

How to care for hippeastrum

You need to keep the hippeastrum in a well-lit place, best of all on the south, southeast or southwest window sill, covering the flower from direct sun rays and turning from time to time around the axis so that it maintains a compact form. Temperature during the period active growth 17 ºC to 25 ºC is preferred. As already mentioned, in the summer, hippeastrum feels great in the fresh air, but you will have to arrange it in nature in such a way that it does not suffer from waterlogging.

Water the hippeastrum at the beginning of the growing season, you need very little, gradually increasing watering only from the moment the peduncle appears - a signal that the plant has begun the growing season. As the flower arrow grows and before flowering begins, watering should become plentiful, but, nevertheless, moderate, so that the earth in the flowerpot is moist, not wet.

It is best to irrigate from the bottom or irrigate from a pan, gradually adding warm water until it gets wet. earthen clod. Avoid getting water on the bulb.

After flowering, watering is also gradually reduced to a complete cessation.

In the photo: Growing hippeastrum at home

When the hippeastrum peduncle reaches 12-15 cm in height, water the soil with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and after 4-6 days feed the plant with phosphate fertilizer. In general, hippeastrum is fed at the beginning of the growing season twice a month with liquid mineral fertilizer for deciduous plants, and after the appearance of leaves and for better education buds - fertilizers for flowering plants in the same mode. Make sure that the concentration of minerals is not too strong, otherwise, instead of fertilizing the plant, you will burn its roots.

Remember to dust the leaves under a warm shower or wipe them regularly with a damp sponge.

Hippeastrum transplant

Hippeastrum is transplanted every three to four years before a dormant period or before leaving it. It is very important to choose the right pot for a flower: the distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot should not be more than 2 cm. The soil should be approximately the following composition: two parts of perlite (or coarse sand), leafy and soddy soil and one part of humus. The soil must be sterilized before use. Don't forget about drainage layer. Planting hippeastrum is carried out by transshipment in order to cause as little harm as possible to the root system of the plant. The bulb is placed in the ground so that at least a third of it is above the surface.

Hippeastrum reproduction

Hippeastrums reproduce by seed and vegetative methods. Sowing seeds is best done immediately after they are collected, while they have one hundred percent germination. If the seeds are allowed to dry, then the ability to germinate becomes only thirty percent. Actually, sowing seeds is a simple, routine procedure, so it makes no sense to talk about it, especially since the seed method can only be used if seeds are available, and they can appear if you are engaged in artificial pollination of a flower.

It is much easier to carry out reproduction in a vegetative way, namely, by separating hippeastrum babies from the mother bulb. Do it during the transplant. Separated with a sterile sharp instrument, the baby, having treated the cuts on it with crushed coal, we plant it in a separate pot and do not deprive it of two years young plant foliage even when dormant.

In the photo: How the hippeastrum blooms in the apartment

There is another way of vegetative propagation of hippeastrum - by dividing the bulb. It is carried out in November, when the bulb contains maximum amount nutrients. Remove upper layer substrate so that only the lower part of the bulb remains in the soil. Remove outer dry scales. Cut off the leaves, grabbing a little of the top of the bulb. Cut the bulb vertically into four equal parts so that the cuts reach the surface of the substrate, vertically insert plastic or wooden needles with a diameter of 5-6 cm into the cuts so that the parts of the bulb do not close. Care for the bulb like an adult plant, not allowing the substrate to dry out. As soon as the leaves appear, fertilize and continue to fertilize in the usual way. In the spring of next year, divide the bulb and plant the parts in individual flowerpots.

Hippeastrum rest period

The dormant period of hippeastrum is from September to January. If your plant spent the summer holidays in the yard, then by the beginning of autumn it is time to bring it into the house. At the same time, they begin to gradually reduce watering, as a result of which the leaves of the plant dry out. After complete drying, the leaves fall off on their own, and the stem is cut off, the plant is transferred to a dry and dark room, put the pot on its side and stored at a temperature of 6-12 ºC without watering for 6 to 8 weeks until the moment when it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up.

Hippeastrum bloom

How to make hippeastrum bloom

• First of all, bulbs can be processed before planting hot water 43-45 ºC for three hours. After such a temperature extreme, the plant blooms in three weeks.
• Second way effects: from August, stop watering the plant, move it to a dry, dark place and keep it there until the end of January, then resume watering. After a month and a half, you can enjoy the flowering of hippeastrum.
• And the third way beliefs: cut off all the leaves of the hippeastrum in July and do not water it for a month, and with the first watering, introduce liquid complex top dressing (to avoid burns, first moisten the soil through and then apply fertilizer).

In August or September, your hippeastrum will bloom like a pretty little one.

In the photo: Handsome white hippeastrum

Hippeastrum does not bloom - why?

Sometimes this happens due to a lack of nutrients, because the hippeastrum plant is voracious, and there is very little soil in the pot, so it is quickly depleted. For this reason, top dressing should be sufficient and regular, as well as watering.

And it happens that a plant throws all its strength into pest control, such as spider mites, scale insects, and then it’s not up to flowering.

Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the soil is waterlogged, when the bulb begins to rot.

In the photo: How hippeastrum blooms

Hippeastrum after flowering

As soon as flowering is over, the plant needs to be prepared for rest, because the quality and timeliness of the next flowering directly depends on how correctly you prepare the hippeastrum for the dormant period. From mid-September, watering stops completely, and after the leaves fall and the wilted peduncle is trimmed, the plant is placed in a dark dry room with a low temperature, where the hippeastrum will be until the end of January or the beginning of February. Then the pot with the bulb is placed in a well-lit place, watering and feeding are resumed, and the next period of active hippeastrum growth begins.

Answer: Hippeastrum is sometimes erroneously called amaryllis, but with amaryllis - Amaryllis belladonna, growing in South Africa, they only have in common that they both belong to the Amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae).

If you buy amaryllis, then it must be written Amaryllis belladonna and then, at the request of the manufacturer, the name of the variety can be indicated.

It is believed that amaryllis blooms in a leafless state, and hippeastrums are leafy, but this is not always the case. If this statement can be considered correct with regard to amaryllis, then hippeastrums sometimes also bloom without leaves. The most important external difference during flowering is that hippeastrum has a hollow peduncle, while amaryllis does not.

2 . How do you send your hippeastrums to rest?

Answer: And I sent all the hippies to rest without watering on the refrigerator. It is dry and warm there. A month later, the leaves turned yellow and went limp (before that, I had also unsuccessfully put them to bed for 1.5 months). After another half a month, she pulled it out, peeled off all the dried roots, soaked it for company with new ones in potassium permanganate, planted it back in a pot in new land and watered once. Didn't water anymore. Now, after 2 weeks, buds are growing in a race with new ones. And among the purchased 1 bulb was completely dormant. Now 2 spouts of the peduncle have come out.

The article on the site pages briefly describes three options for growing hippeastrum in room conditions.

Another option for a quick retirement: the bulb is dug out of the ground and, without cutting the leaves, is placed on its side. In this position, life processes quickly stop and the bulb “falls asleep”.

3. Hippeastrum has faded. What's next?

Answer: Cut the faded arrows in half. As the remaining stem dries, just unscrew it. After flowering, hippeastrums are not sent to, but intensively begin with complex fertilizers. He sleeps for 2 months. per year, the remaining 10 - blooms and grows.

4. How to feed hippeastrum?

Answer: At the All-Russian Exhibition Center in pavilion Semena, an excellent fertilizer from the NPP VIOST company is sold. It's called "Universal". A small bag costs 4r, for watering it is bred for 10l. For spraying - 2l. Excellent for stimulating growth and for ornamental foliage. Made on the basis of mixture No. 2 according to Mittlider, it only dissolves much more easily (almost immediately). It costs the same. Stimulates flowering. From him, except that the rotten stump will not bloom.

Answer: It is not necessary to feed the bulb during flowering, as it blooms due to accumulated fertilizers, that is, the next flower arrow begins to form from the nutrients that should come after flowering.

Once a week after flowering until retirement, you can feed fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. I feed Kemira Lux.

Answer: I fertilized some bulbs last year during flowering with tomato local fertilizer on the advice of friends from the flower club. I marveled at the advice at first, and then, after reading the composition, I realized that they were quite right. There proportions N-P-K - 4-6-12. As a result, the bulbs are now strong and, to put it mildly, not thin for the next flowering season. I myself would not choose this fertilizer for anything, I would use something traditional for flowering plants with a high content of phosphorus. The fact that potassium is actually even better, if more during the flowering period, would not have occurred to me. Although, again, on the advice of experienced gippiastrum growers, I now alternate feeding with this tomato contraption and Pokon bought in Moscow for flowering.

During flowering, fertilize through each watering. After the death of the arrow, about once every three weeks.

Answer: When the peduncle of the forcing bulb appears, the first top dressing is approximately when the arrow with a bud is five centimeters (not counting the bud, they are very different in size) - our English liquid fertilizer with N-P-K proportions of 4-7-9. That is, phosphorus is also present, which helps flowering, as it were, and potassium, which guarantees the laying of buds and generally supports the bulb so that it does not lose much strength. Further, when we say the first and second arrows fade, I also switch to liquid fertilizer N-P-K 4-4-12. This is the same tomato top dressing that they “surrendered” to me at the club. I usually manage to feed her four times. Further, while the bulb stands with tops until May-June, I feed Pokonovsky fertilizer N-P-K 7-3-6 - again from the considerations that nitrogen is needed during the growing season and potassium is needed by the bulbous "for life". In the summer, almost all of my adult bulbs bloom for the second time, however, you can’t predict the exact time here. During the second flowering period, I manage to feed the first fertilizer a couple of times.

In principle, in all three, all sorts of other elements are present and they are all diluted in different ways, one at 5 ml per half liter of water, the other in a different way. If it is important, I can write off everything from the labels in detail at my leisure.

This is what happened if you interfere with the fertilizer yourself from what you can always find in stores.

Period: Budding, flowering. N-P-K - 4-7-9 (pour into 1 liter of water).

• 18g/l Potassium sulfate 9g/l K2O
• 17.5g/l Double superphosphate 7g/l P2O5

Period: 1-2 months after flowering. N-P-K - 4-4-12 (pour into 1 liter of water).

• 8g/l Carbamide (urea) 4g/l N
• 24g/l Potassium sulfate 12g/l K2O
• 10g/l Double superphosphate 4g/l P2O5

Period: 1-2 months after flowering. N-P-K - 7-3-6 (pour into 1 liter of water).

• 16g/l Carbamide (urea) 7g/l N
• 12g/l Potassium sulfate 6g/l K2O
• 8g/l Double superphosphate 3g/l P2O5

Usual dosage 5ml (bottom cap) plastic bottle) for 1-2 liters of water. Every week or every other week.

Comments: from my point of view, the second and third top dressing should be changed, that is, 4-4-12 feed to rest the bulbs or re-bloom, but the theory says so.

5. Is it possible to make hippeastrum bloom 2 times a year? Mine has just faded - can it be put back to sleep for a couple of months after some time?

Answer: I think that it is unnecessary to send the bulbs to rest twice, adult well-groomed plants themselves willingly bloom twice a year, especially if they are kept outdoors in summer sunny balcony and even the presence of leaves does not interfere with this. Moreover, they write in the literature that hippeastrums can be cultivated without a dormant period and will bloom twice a year, though not when the owner wants, but when they themselves want it, but by a certain day, then they are satisfied with a well-deserved rest.

6. I bought a hippic already with an arrow (35 cm). Should I water it through the pan a little at a time?

Answer: Watering through the pan is undesirable. I pour mine from above in a thin stream into the edge of the pot warm water once a week (but this is during flowering and leaf growth). Once it blooms already, then you can water it normally, not a little bit. Such watering should be at least until August.

7. For the first time I send the hippeastrum to rest, I did everything according to the instructions, and now I’m starting to tear off the penultimate half-dried leaf, when suddenly I see an arrow under it (already about 10 cm). Do I need to water it now, because it seems to be like a dormant period? And is it possible to make it so that flowering falls on December 31st or will it bloom just in time for this date ??? (Date of post 07.12)

Answer: Usually hippeastrum blooms three weeks after the appearance of the arrow ... To slow down flowering, the plant is placed in a cool place and not watered. In my opinion, it is too late to slow down the 10-cm arrow.

8. I bought a hippeastrum in a box with an arrow and a bud. All roots stick out. The bulb itself looks completely dry. What will we do?

Answer: transplant of course into normal soil immediately!
Practice shows that the gippik in any state (even flowering) tolerates a transplant. Forcing bulbs are tenacious, with roots just more careful.

9. When transplanted, the bulb was found to have more than doubled in size in a season - this is my first bulb. Maybe overfed? And to what size do they grow? Is it necessary to adjust the size of the bulb (for example: without feeding)?

Answer: If the bulb has grown, then it's great. Adjust the value only in the direction of increase.

10. Are soft bulbs a disease? And mechanical damage will not lead to the death of the bulb?

Answer: It depends what you mean by "soft onions". The bulb is usually a little soft to the touch when it dies off the top layer, in principle this natural process. If it is very soft, then it may already be rot.

11. I examined and felt the bulb - in one place it turned out to be soft! I dug up - half of the roots were rotten, that part of the bulb that was sitting in the ground was soft. The next course of action?

Answer: Your next steps:

• remove the top layer of scales from the bulb;
• remove rotten roots;
• treat with Fundazol or Maxim;
• dry thoroughly for at least a day;
• plant in light soil, burying quite a bit, just sprinkle the roots. Over time, sprinkle the earth;
• water very carefully until the leaves appear, trying not to soak the bulb;
  put in a warm place.

12. After processing the bulb with Maxim, all the husks flew around. The bulb is naked, is it bad? There were burn spots on it, when scraped, they disappear. Do I need to scrape off (or cut out) all this redness from the bulb (there is not very much of it), or will it all come off by itself and can I plant it in the ground without fear?

Answer: Plant at 1/3 and then in case of spread of the disease, you can always sprinkle again. If the bulb is "naked" it is not desirable to expose it to direct sunlight until the upper scales turn brown.

13. What does a “red burn” look like and how does it harm the bulbs? In the summer, in good light, the bulb sometimes has a scattering of red spots.

Answer: This is a protective reaction to excess light: the plant forms organic light filters that reflect, as a rule, exactly the "red" color. After all, the maxima for chlorophyll lie in the red and blue regions. After shading the plant, these spots will disappear by themselves.

14. I noticed that there are red spots on the neck of the bulb. I took it out of the ground and took off the old scales, and there - on the one hand, the bulbs generally rotted to two scales, some of the roots are red.

Answer: Red rot is one of the most dangerous diseases of amaryllis (hippeastrum). It manifests itself in the appearance of red cracks on the bulbs and shoots of the plant. The reason for the appearance of red rot are fungal spores brought by the wind. And often they are already contained in the bulbs bought in the store.

But even a severe lesion can be cured by the following set of measures:

• shake the plant out of the pot, remove the upper dry scales, as well as all diseased scales;
  in more or less healthy people, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue and sprinkle with crushed coal;
• cut off all dead roots;
• if the plant is in a state of growth, shorten the leaves;
• dry the processed bulb for 5-7 days;
• pickle it before planting with a solution of foundationol (you can limit yourself to surface spraying with a 1.2% solution);
• plant the bulb in a new substrate, excluding humus from it and adding chopped sphagnum. Almost the entire bulb should be above the soil. In the ground, leave only the roots and the bottom. This will allow you to monitor the condition of the bulb and process it in time in case of a recurrence of the disease.
• spill the substrate properly with a solution of foundationazole or Maxim. Subsequent watering should be minimal, in no case should water fall on the bulb. A pot with an onion for the recovery period is best placed in a cool place.

Remember: it is better to play it safe in the fight against infection or even abandon a diseased plant than to infect all your pets (source - Svetlana Kononova's website "Flowers of Life").

15. Do bulbs need to be peeled to light scales before planting?

Answer: And as for the husk, I only remove what is clearly already to be removed. And so, the more you clean off yourself, the more likely it is that the upper living layer will begin to die off, which will lead to a decrease in the bulb.

Answer: If the bulb has lost a lot of weight, remove a loose-fitting couple, leaving a pair of brown ones that fit snugly. It is not necessary to peel the bulb until the living light layer.

16. Does anyone highlight hippeastrums?

Answer: For 10 years now, hippeastrums have been blooming for me at this particular time, when it is dark and cold, in principle, they don’t need light for this, well, maybe the flowers will be a little bit paler than in summer, but in order for the buds to form, they need the most sunny place, in principle, it’s also not necessary, I go to work past the house, on the window with north side, the magnificent hippeastrum grows and blooms every spring, only because of the lack of light he has to tie up the leaves. So highlighting the hippeastrum is absolutely unnecessary.

17. My hippeastrum has faded, forming a baby, in which the first leaf is also pecking. Should I transplant now without separating the babies or wait (how much?) Until the baby grows up and separate it during transplantation?

Answer: The separation of children, IMHO, is best done when they appear and 1-2 leaves, so as not to waste time on the development of both the child itself and the maximum thickening of the parent. I emphasize once again that not a single hipp transplanted with leaves died when only the roots were planted in the ground, and in this state the bulb perfectly tolerates any disinfection, degassing and decontamination :) both on the roots and on the bulb itself.

But, you can separate the children before the rest period. The most optimal scheme, if the dormant period is arranged - send the mother to sleep after dying off and pruning the dried leaves, and the baby - in fresh soil, and leave it in the light with the usual (well, slightly reduced for winter, of course) watering. If you don’t want to force yourself to sleep, then you do the same thing - with autumn transplant just separate the baby and plant separately. Now, after flowering, I would not separate it.

18. Excuse me, what place does a flower arrow usually sprout from?

Answer: it can come out of any sinus of the bulb, this does not mean any pathology, do not worry. See photo (hippian arrow). From a variety of places, one is strictly in the center, two on the sides and one more pecks also almost in the center. Even if there is only one peduncle at a particular moment, it will not necessarily grow from the crown itself, from the center of the neck.

19. And my hippeastrum arrow is stuck in the leaves. The first arrow bloomed gorgeously, there are no leaves, and the second one got out 1 cm and got stuck.

Answer: The peduncle is stretched due to lack of light. Try to put it at the bottom of the window for a few days so that it reaches for the light. Just don't overdo it.

20. Can I plant several bulbs in one pot?

Answer: Can. Looks great. This year I started a couple of exotic sibister varieties for the first time. Here I’ll take a closer look at them and the next one I’ll definitely fit into the interior more beautifully, in a large bowl, several bulbs of the same variety or different ones, selected according to the color scheme.

"Why doesn't the hippeastrum bloom?" - this question was asked by every grower who cannot wait for beautiful buds. This is due to errors in care, forcing in general unpretentious plant slow down your growth. Eliminating them and providing indoor hippeastrum good conditions, you will achieve a beautiful and bright flowering.

Why there are no flowers - the main reasons

Several main reasons can affect the natural flowering process of hyperastrum:

• No transfers. Adult hippeastrum needs transplants, it is best if they are carried out every 2 years. It is also recommended that every year after flowering, change 3 cm of the top layer of soil in a pot for a mixture of the same composition;
• Nutrient deficiency. If the hippeastrum does not bloom for a long time, only the leaves are visible, and you can only dream of an arrow. The reason for this may be hidden in the lack of top dressing. The plant reacts positively to the application of fertilizers to the soil; nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compounds for bulbous flowers are suitable for this. You can use both liquid and dry dressings, which are added to the water during irrigation or applied directly to moist soil;
• Absence the right amount Sveta. Hippeastrum needs good lighting to bloom, so it's best to place it on a southern windowsill. With insufficiently bright light, the laying of the kidneys does not occur;
• Too much big pot . If the plant is planted in a spacious container, it will direct all its forces to the growth of leaves. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom, it needs a pot where, when planting the bulb, no more than 2-3 cm will remain to the brim;
• The presence of children. Over time, the bulb begins to produce children, which, if not separated during transplantation, will inhibit budding. That is why, in the case when the propagation of the hippeastrum variety is not the goal, it is best to remove new bulbs from the mother plant;
• The bulb is too deep. Often, it is this reason that prevents the growth of the arrow, since a plant planted in this way will never release a peduncle. Similar mistakes when planting in a pot are made by beginners who still cannot boast of sufficient experience in handling hippeastrums. In this case, you should take note of the following rule - the bulb should always be only half in the ground.
• No dormant period. If the hippeastrum does not go into hibernation, this may adversely affect the frequency of its flowering.

How to make hippeastrum bloom at home

The secrets of care for flowering lie in observing the rules of planting, feeding, watering and organizing a dormant period. By providing the flower with good conditions for growth and development, you can achieve not one, but several blooms.

Correct fit

1. The substrate must be prepared in advance, taking turf, leaf soil, humus, sand or peat in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1.
2. Expanded clay or crushed brick is placed in the selected pot at the bottom, which will act as a drain excess moisture and prevent its stagnation.
3. Then the soil is poured, the bulb is placed in it with the roots down.
4. The bulb should be only half in the ground, next to it you need to tamp the soil with your fingers.
5. After planting, the plant is placed on a bright windowsill and needs moderate watering.

Feeding and watering

Proper watering is a guarantee that the bulb will not rot and will be able to release a healthy peduncle.

How to water

• Hippeastrum prefers moderately moist soil, so you need to “water” it only after the soil has dried.
• In no case should moisture fall on the bulb and leaves, so it is best to water the flower in a pan.
• However, you cannot use cold water, especially if the plant stands on a cold windowsill in winter - this can provoke the development of fungi.

How and what to feed

• As for dressings, they cannot be carried out until the bulbs are completely rooted in a new pot. If you ignore this rule, the plant will begin to "fatten", and soon you are unlikely to wait for flowering.
• Also, the hippeastrum refuses to release an arrow when overfeeding - you can determine it by the dark green color of the leaves.
• For top dressing, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering indoor or bulbous plants.
• Budding is promoted by fertilizers with a high phosphorus content, but they are effective only in sufficient light.
• The frequency of fertilizing for adult bulbs is 2 times a month, while it is better to slightly reduce the concentration indicated by the manufacturer on the package.

We send hippeastrum to "rest"

Sometimes indoor hippeastrums they can “ignore” the dormant period - a lot of time passes after flowering, and the leaves, instead of withering and drying, simply delight the eye with their healthy appearance. In this case, it is necessary to stimulate "hibernation" artificially by putting the bulb pot on its side.

• Absence a large number light (preferably dark rooms);
• Temperature conditions in the range from 10 to 18 degrees.

At the same time, it is necessary to reduce watering and fertilizing - after about a month, the leaves will begin to dry on the flower, which can be cut off only after complete wilting. It is strictly forbidden to remove the green deciduous mass, since the bulb receives the necessary nutritional components through it.

Putting the pot vertically is not worth it - in a supine position, it should stay up to 3 months. Why? - if you raise it earlier, the hippeastrum will begin to grow foliage and again refuse to bloom.

What to do if the hippeastrum does not bloom: a radical way

If the long-awaited arrow has not appeared, you can influence the hippeastrum in a different way. With the onset of summer, the flower is planted in open ground where it should be left until autumn. After the bulb has gained strength, it is placed back in the pot.

If you do not want to plant a non-flowering hippeastrum in a flower bed, you can simply take the pot out into the garden. Over the summer, he will have time to grow a sufficient number of leaves and will delight with bright flowering.

Source: https://rastenia.info/tsvetyi/gippeastrum/pochemu-ne-tsvetet.html

How to make hippeastrum bloom

The answer to this question is simple: the flower is not properly cared for. Hippeastrum is useful to endure for the summer in the garden. It is better to place it in the shade under a tree, where the plant will not suffer from too active sunlight, lack of moisture.

It is important during this period to water regularly and periodically feed(full mineral fertilizer + 0.5 teaspoon of sodium humate per bucket of water). On such " summer holidays» The flower will gain strength and after a period of rest will please with beautiful buds.

Hippeastrum does not bloom if soil is not suitable. It needs to be transplanted into light soil. Replant to new soil every 3 years. Few Nutrients- feed the plant once every 2 weeks complex fertilizer.

Hippeastrum does not bloom in too large a pot. Transplant the plant into a small shallow one, the diameter of which is one centimeter larger than the diameter of the bulb.

At the plant there was no dormant period- stop feeding and watering, cut off the leaves and put in a dark place for two months. Then put on sunny window sill, and after the appearance of peduncles, water generously. Feed after a day or two.

Infested with diseases or pests- spray with special preparations.

Bulbs, less than 7 cm in diameter rarely bloom - provide high-quality and regular nutrition so that it forms faster and gains strength for flowering.

Too much moisture- before watering, the soil should dry out completely, water it into a pan. At the bottom of the pot, put 2 cm of expanded clay for drainage.

Hippeastrum usually does not bloom unless it has been provided with a dormant period in the fall in a cool room without light and watering for several weeks.

1. Place the hippeastrum bulbs in a thermos with very warm water for 3 hours and, after treatment with foundationazole, immediately plant in a tight pot.
2. At the end of summer, cut off all the leaves, put a dark paper cap on the pot and do not water for a month.
3. It is better to remove the pot from the windowsill so that it does not heat up in the sun.
4. After this period, lightly water and then feed with fertilizer for flowering houseplants.

Without a dormant period, there will be no flower stalks

As we have already found out, the hypeastrum does not bloom without it. In late August-September, the plant needs to be prepared for rest. They dig it up and plant it in small pots, one or two bulbs each, deepening them only halfway into the ground. The distance from the bulb to the edge of the pot should not be more than 1 cm.

Hippeastrum does not bloom in large and deep pots. If the flower was not planted in the garden, but stood all summer in an apartment or balcony, then we skip the previous paragraph.

• Completely stop feeding and gradually reduce watering.

• Stop watering altogether after 2-3 weeks.
• Cut off all the leaves.
• We move the pots to a cool place.
• We cover the top with an opaque material.
• Leave in this state for 2 months at temperatures up to 200 C.

Important: hippeastrum during the dormant period can survive a short-term drop in temperature to -1, but the buds die even at 5 degrees above zero. We place the pots in the pantry or basement, but not on the street.

How to get hippeastrum out of dormancy

We remove the opaque cap and immediately transfer it to the light, pour quite a bit of water into the pan. As soon as the peduncle appears, the hippeastrum can be generously watered.

We do it in a week first feeding hippeastrum fertilizer for flowers with the addition of sodium humate.

Second time we feed the hippeastrum when the peduncle reaches 20 cm in length, and the third and subsequent top dressings are done after flowering.

In what soil to plant hippeastrum

1 option- buy soil for flowering plants and add perlite, biohumus to it. Option 2- mix in equal proportions sod land, sand and peat in equal parts.

Care for hippeastrum after flowering

After the flower wilts, the stem must be cut at a height of 3 cm from the bulb and fed. After a month, you can organize a dormant period if you want to achieve flowering twice a year. You can simply take care of all summer like an ordinary flowerpot or plant it in the garden. Next, we proceed according to the scheme described above.

How more leaves on the plant, the more likely it is that the hippeastrum will produce two peduncles. If less than 4 leaves appeared during the season, there will most likely be no flowering. Transplant the bulb into nutrient soil and feed regularly.

One leaf grows in about a month. Hippeastrum is very demanding on the quality of nutrition and care. Children can not be separated from the mother plant. As mentioned above, the hippeastrum feels good in cramped conditions, so over time you will get more flower branches in one pot.

Source: https://avgulen.com/gippeastrum/

GIPPEASTRUM: why does it not bloom at home? What to do?

We tell you why hippeastrum does not bloom at home and what to do with it. We describe how to make it bloom and give the best recommendations.

We also consider caring for hippeastrum after flowering and what to do next.

Why hippeastrum does not bloom at home: what to do?

The hippeastrum plant belongs to the Amaryllis family, which is why it is often confused with Amaryllis. However, these are two separate types of plants and they differ, in particular, in the flowering period and homeland.

Hippeastrum (Central America) blooms mainly in winter, while amaryllis ( South Africa) - summer. This is very beautiful flower, widely used throughout the world.

Depending on the size of the bulb and condition, hippeastrum is able to bloom at home and twice a year.

• Important factors for flowering are proper care, landing, and following some simple rules.

LANDING. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom at home, it is very important to plant it correctly. Correct fit and transplanting a plant is the basis for successful growth, development and flowering.

1. Choose before boarding right size hippeastrum pot. It is necessary that at the level of planting the bulb, there should be about two centimeters of free space around it.
2. Next point: planting depth. Ideally, the bulb should be 55-65% of its size in the substrate and the remaining 35-45% outside.
3. Optimal nutrient substrate: we take one part of peat, sand and soddy soil, and two parts of leafy soil. Be sure to drain at the bottom of the tank.
4. After planting, water the flower for a good compaction of the soil mixture.

Hippeastrum does not bloom, what should I do? rest period

From about the end of August, stop feeding and watering so that the plant “dries out” the leaves and it is easier for the bulb to leave for a dormant period.

• In autumn, the hippeastrum has a dormant period, in which the foundation is laid for future flowering. Preparation for flowering consists of several stages.

At this time, reduce watering. Usually in October, dead leaves are cut off, and the plant is placed in a dark place with a temperature of + 10-12 ° C. Usually in some cool cellar or basement.

Important! Never cut the leaves of the plant, they contain nutrients, let the leaves dry themselves.

Hippeastrum dries the leaves, getting from them useful material necessary for the bulb for further development. It is rarely watered and mostly in a pan so that the substrate in the pot is not completely soaked, but the roots do not die.

The awakening period can be controlled independently: either try to make the bulb wake up earlier, or vice versa, delay the time of its awakening. Or let the bulb wake up when it's comfortable.

1. A month before the moment when you want the hippeastrum to bloom, it is taken out to a warm place (+ 23-26 ° C).
2. Before the appearance of the flower arrow, they do not water and cover from above (for example, with a pot) so that light does not fall on the bulb. A few days later, the flower awakens and a flower arrow appears, and then leaves.
3. From the moment the arrow appears, it is necessary to resume moderate watering of the bulb with warm water. After the flower arrow reaches a length of about 10 cm, you need to remove the shelter (pot).
4. Immediately transfer the flower to a well-lit place and begin to water abundantly. To increase the flowering period, it is recommended to remove the pistil.

How to make hippeastrum bloom at home?

If you follow all the previous tips and properly care for the flower, then you can try to apply some tricks.

One of the ways to make hippeastrum bloom at home is to plant a flower in open ground for the summer.

1. At the end of spring frosts, the hippeastrum bulbs are planted in a semi-darkened place in the garden with good soil. Usually large bulbs are separate from small ones. It can be planted in small beds, around which ditches are made for irrigation so that the bulb does not rot.
2. The bulbs are immersed in the soil by 2/3 and the roots are carefully straightened.
3. During the absence of rain, the flower is watered abundantly, about once every ten days, and more often.
4. Hippeastrum is fertilized in late June-early July with mineral fertilizer, supplementing it with half a teaspoon per 10 liters of water, sodium humate.
5. In August, watering must be stopped, and soil loosening should be continued.
6. In the second half of September, before autumn frosts bulbs are dug up. Usually during this time they significantly increase in size and are replenished with children.
7. Hippeastrum is transplanted back into pots, after cutting too long roots from large bulbs and separating the children. Children are planted separately from large bulbs.
8. After transplanting, the plant is watered and then pruned to transition to dormancy.

blooming hippeastrum

Hippeastrum: home care after flowering - what to do?

It is important to properly care for the plant after flowering. At this time, the foundation is laid for its next flowering at home.

1. As soon as it has faded, it is necessary to cut the peduncle 10-15 cm from the bulb. It is better not to delay pruning as seeds begin to form after flowering, which negatively affects the condition of the bulb.
2. After that, let the remaining parts of the hippeastrum peduncle dry so that they can be removed without effort and risk of damage to the bulb itself.

"Festival of Flowers" warns! In no case do not tear out the peduncle immediately, as you can expose the hippeastrum, after flowering, to the risk of decay or disease.

• Immediately after flowering, actively fertilize and water the plant so that it can quickly replenish the expended energy.
• Also during this period, it is advisable to change the upper 2-3 cm of the substrate to a new one once a year.

TRANSPLANT HIPPEASTRUM AFTER FLOWERING

As the size of the bulb increases, about once every 2-3 years, a month after flowering, the hippeastrum is transplanted into a new pot.

Children with roots can be separated during transplantation, and if you want to get more flowers in one pot, you can leave it.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? Other reasons

• If you take proper care, follow the plant, and tried the previous method to stimulate the flowering of hippeastrum, but there is no result, then perhaps your plant is simply not ready yet.

Most likely, the bulb does not have enough strength to bloom and is less than seven centimeters in diameter. This happens quite often.

INTERESTING ON THE TOPIC:

1. THE MOST UNpretentious HOUSE PLANTS AND BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS!

2. FLOWER "FEMALE HAPPINESS": WHAT ARE THE VARIETIES?

We wish you a successful hippeastrum care experience and beautiful flowering!

Source: http://FlowersHoliday.com/pochemy-ne-cvetet-hipperastrum/

Enthusiastic flower growers face a difficult task: how to organize flowers on a small window sill small garden, which will constantly delight the owners exuberant bloom. It must be said that in winter time not all plants can bloom, and they have their own reasons for this. Some fall into "hibernation", others do not have enough heat.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?

As for the hippeastrum, this beautiful representative of the flora can bloom twice a year, throwing out a peduncle, on which several huge "stars" subsequently bloom.

Sometimes the creation of a bouquet is canceled and in order to stimulate this process, the grower has to make an effort.

The skills and abilities of lovers of bulbous plants will help to understand the problem from the inside and make the right decision.

Description of hippeastrum

In the world there are 80 plant species and another 600 hybrids. Each of them is beautiful in its own way, because nature itself and the best breeders worked on such beauty. The underground part of the plant is a bulb, from which several leaves and a peduncle grow. The beauty of the bouquet is preserved for two months.

For reproduction, one of the planting materials is necessary: ​​seeds, children, bulbs. Interestingly, when propagated by seeds, you can get a plant with a new shade of a star if two stars took part in pollination. different plants. In order for the hippeastrum to bloom, you need to follow the rules:

1. Create a temperature regime.
2. Monitor the illumination of the windowsill.
3. Organize a dormant period preceding the formation of buds.

Some specimens are able to please the owners twice a year, but this requires good conditions. Experienced flower growers manage to achieve flowering by a certain date and in holidays give good mood to all households.

What stimulates the plant to shoot arrows?

When purchasing planting material in a store, you need to pay attention to its condition. Peel the bulb from the upper scales and inspect it, this is the only way to identify pests and hidden diseases. So:

• A spot with a red border indicates the presence of stagonosporosis.
• The possibility of fungal diseases is judged by the moisture content of the scales.
• Traces of insects will be visible through an optical device - a magnifying glass.

How to make hippeastrum bloom?

Before burying the material in the substrate, pickle it in a solution of potassium permanganate or other antiseptic. Then:

1. Prepare a flowerpot. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the bulb itself.
2. Put a layer of drainage on the bottom.
3. Prepare a mixture of peat, sand, sod land, taken in the same amount.
4. Pour it into a flowerpot, sprinkle with clean sand. Watch the soil level, it should not reach the edge of the pot by 1 cm, this will facilitate loosening.

A plant transplant is carried out once every three years, the bulb itself remains viable for 10 years.

Conditions that positively affect flowering

The decorativeness of the hippeastrum is achieved by creating a certain environment. Its main features cannot be neglected, you need:

• Use a cramped pot.
• Maintain planting depth.
• Do not prune flower stalk with faded stars.
• Do not fertilize a plant that has not had time to take root.
• You can not feed the flower before flowering.
• Take care of the onset of a period of rest. The bulb accumulates the energy necessary to drive out the arrow during "hibernation", organized by its own forces. Darkening and 13 degrees of heat will completely suit the flower.

Hippeastrum fell in love with flower growers for their non-capricious character. He feels comfortable during the heating period, when the radiators dry the air. Knowing some of the features of its content will help to understand what prevents the plant from blooming:

1. Too spacious a pot will cause the hippeastrum to begin to “fatten”.
2. With each transplant, choose a container whose edges are a couple of centimeters away from the bulb.
3. Observe the planting depth: the body of the onion should not be immersed in the soil mixture more than half.
4. Watering is carried out through the pan, so as not to moisten the thickened underground scaly part. When someone gets wet excess water drains from the tray.
5. Feeding the plant is not carried out, even if it has managed to bloom, but has not yet taken root. You can check it like this: take the arrow and shake it from side to side. If the bulb remains mobile, but it is too early to fertilize. You will learn about rooting by growing leaves, sometimes they appear a few months after planting.
6. Feeding waterings are not carried out before flowering, discard them even in the absence of leaves. You can start fertilizing only after throwing out the arrow.

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom?

The cardinal method that stimulates the flowering of hippeastrum is as follows:

1. Plant the stubborn in open ground in the summer.
2. When the plant grows leaves, dig it up and transfer it to a cellar or other room that is not too dry. This must be done before the first freezing of the soil.
3. The period when the leaves dry up will not last long. During this time, all the nutrients migrate to the bulb.
4. 4Now transplant it into a pot and put it in a dark and cool place, that is, create a “hibernation” phase.

After a month, put the flowerpot on the windowsill and wait little miracle- long and abundant flowering.

Source: https://moycvet.ru/uhod/pochemu-ne-cvetet-gippeastrum.html

Hippeastrum: cultivation and care at home, photo why it does not bloom

Bulbous indoor plant hippeastrum is famous for its gorgeous flowers different colors and forms.

At home, they mainly grow hippeastrum hybrid, which is distinguished by a large bulb, long leaves and a peduncle up to 1.2 m long.

When flowering on this peduncle, several large buds with a short tube are located at once. The color of flowers can be red, pink, yellow, white, hybrid.

Hippeastrum care - basic rules

A native of Latin America, hippeastrum at home pleases with its flowering several times a year. In most cases, the appearance of buds occurs in the winter season.

However, some flower growers rarely see the flowering of their favorite plant. Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? The answer to this question can be simple - the wrong care.

In this article, we will try to describe in detail all the secrets for caring for hippeastrum at home.

Lighting

The plant loves light and grows well on south, southeast and southwest window sills. It is desirable to cover it from direct sunlight, especially during flowering. Otherwise, the buds can get burned and quickly wither.

In order for the flower to retain its compact shape, it is recommended to periodically rotate it around its axis. In winter, it may not have enough light, so backlighting is required. fluorescent lamps. Light day should last at least 10 hours.

The soil

Why does the hippeastrum not bloom? The reason may be that too dense soil without nutrients is chosen for the plant. For exotic flower the soil should be loose and consist of several components. There are several options for its preparation:

1. Turf land, sand, peat (1:1:1).
2. Coarse-grained sand, soddy soil, leafy soil, humus (2:2:2:1).
3. Leafy earth, humus (3:1).

Watering

For development, growth and flowering important role plays proper watering. Waterlogging for hippeastrum can be detrimental, because in natural conditions it grows in dry areas.

It is best to use watering through the pan. In about 30 minutes, the soil will absorb required amount water, and its remains will need to be drained.

Do not leave water in the pan, as the roots will begin to sour, which will lead to rotting of the bulb.

The dormant period of the plant begins at the end of summer. At this time, the frequency of watering is reduced. The pot should be placed in a cool place, preferably in the basement. Care must be taken not to dry out the roots. To do this, sometimes they can be moistened.

If the hippeastrum does not bloom, then perhaps the conditions for a dormant period, which should last for two months, were not created for it. After that, the flower is again placed in a bright place, but until the peduncle appears, do not water it.

In order for the peduncle to grow, and not the leaves, watering should not be plentiful. More often and more abundantly, the plant is watered when the “arrow” is 7-10 cm.

You don't need to spray the leaves. It is enough to wipe them from time to time with a damp cloth.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to start feeding the flower after the appearance of the “arrow”, which should reach a height of about 7 cm. From now on, fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium should be applied every two weeks. In flower shops, you can buy special fertilizer for blooming bulbous flowers.

As organic matter, a solution of bird droppings (for 5 liters of water - 35 grams) or mullein (for 5 liters of water - 125 grams) is suitable.

Hippeastrum - transplant and reproduction

As soon as the flower fades, the withered buds are cut off, and the bulb is transplanted into a pot, which should be 6 cm larger in diameter. It should be buried in the ground by 2/3. Not enough strong plant transplanted once every three years.

Hippeastrum can be propagated in three ways:

1. Daughter bulbs.
2. The division of the main bulb.
3. Seeds.

The easiest way is to use the first two methods. Bulb for propagation should be well developed and strong. It is divided into two parts so that an even piece of the bottom and scales remain. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated or charcoal.

Bulb slices or babies are planted in a container with a mixture of peat and soddy soil. During their engraftment, the soil should be moist (but not wet), and the air temperature should reach + 24-25 degrees.

As soon as young plants adapt, they are transplanted into separate pots, which should be quite a bit over size planting material. Optimal distance between the edges of the container and the onion - 5-6 cm.

Onions should not be buried more than half in the ground.

Pests and diseases

Of the pests on the hippeastrum, a worm can settle, spider mite, scale insect, aphid. You can get rid of them by periodically rubbing the leaves with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If it is not effective, then it is recommended to use Fitoverm or Aktelik.

Red burn mushroom, red rot and false powdery mildew are the most common plant diseases. The reasons for their appearance can be waterlogging, lack of light, excess light, heavy soil. All affected parts must be removed. The bulb must be treated with Fundazol or Fitosporin.

Why hippeastrum does not bloom - care mistakes

Too abundant or insufficient watering, lack of nutrients, improper maintenance during the dormant period - all these may be the reasons for the lack of flowering of an exotic plant.

When growing hippeastrum at home, flower growers often face other problems:

1. Flowers blacken or darken - high humidity and low temperature.
2. Flowers wilt, leaves turn pale- excess or lack of moisture.
3. Bulb Chopping- insufficient lighting, the appearance of children, too abundant flowering.

If the plant has faded and is in a cool place, but still continues to produce leaves, then it is possible:

1. The bulb is sent to "hibernation" early. Sluggish scales speak of it. In this case, it is recommended to transplant the flower, and continue to water and feed.
2. The plant has completed its rest and it is time to bring it out into the light if the bulb has grown and is dense.

It is necessary to send to rest only dense plants that have recovered during the growing season. healthy bulbs. For young onions that have never bloomed, a dormant period is not needed. An overgrown plant before "rest" is recommended to be seated in separate containers.

To date, a lot of varieties of hippeastrum have been bred. The most beautiful of them are Joker, Evergreen, Benfica, Amorise, Alfresco, 98-60, Magnum. There are over 200 varieties of this amazing flower. Knowing all the rules for care, in winter you can admire the insanely beautiful exotic buds. Moreover, caring for hippeastrum is not at all difficult.

Hippeastrum - bulbous flower with oblong dark green leaves and large inflorescences of various colors. We will talk about how to grow this handsome man at home and how to care for him in our article.

Translated from Greek, the name of the plant under discussion means "star" and "cavalier". Hippeastrum is native to the tropical forests of Central America. It belongs to monocot plants and has more than 80 varieties. They are distinguished by the color of the inflorescence and the shape of the bud. Some varieties are bred outdoors, and some are grown at home.

The most common species is the garden hippeastrum. The flower has a large bulb, reaching 20 centimeters, half of which is hidden in the ground. Oblong leaves of a belt-like or ribbon-like shape are combined into a basal rosette about 40-50 cm long. Funnel-shaped or bell-shaped inflorescences are collected 3-4 pieces on a peduncle up to one meter high.

Common types of plants are:

• hippeastrum bright red is distinguished by red inflorescences with greenish stripes;
• hippeastrum reticulata has flowers with pink stripes;
• hippeastrum palatial blooms with beautiful red flowers.

Other popular varieties include:

1. Hippeastrum flower Lady Jane. It reaches a diameter of 20-25 cm. Petals are pale orange in color with pink-yellow stripes in the center and wavy edges.
2. In the Papillio Butterfly variety, the bulb has an oblong shape. The name of this variety arose due to the shape of the flowers - they look like butterflies of pale white color or yellow-green. In the center of each petal is a bright crimson stripe.
3. Hippeastrum Leopolda has dark green belt-like leaves. The flower is rich red, which gradually turns into white at the ends of the petals.

Hippeastrum: growing features

A nice feature of the hippeastrum is that the flowering time can be selected and timed to coincide with some event.

• Usually, hippeastrum bulbs are bought in autumn and winter, when the flower is at rest.
• Before spring landing in the soil, the bulb must be soaked in warm water for 2-3 hours (the so-called plant forcing).
• Then it must be planted in the ground so that almost 1/2 of the head is above the ground.

It is important to know! If it is necessary to achieve a quick appearance of a peduncle, you need to water the plant when planting, then put it in a warm, lit place and stop active watering.

High humidity reduces the growth of peduncles and accelerates the development of foliage. This is one of the reasons for the passivity of the hippeastrum. In addition to making the plant happy bright colors next season, he needs bright lighting and good care after the previous bloom.

Hippeastrum care at home

The plant cannot be called very capricious, therefore every attentive flower grower is able to provide care for it.

Ground Requirements

To grow a flower, you need to purchase soil for bulbs, which is sold in any horticultural department. You can make your own mixture.

It consists of:

• sod land;
• river coarse sand;
• peat;
• and good humus.

The soil ratio looks like this: 2:1:1:1.

Suitable for these purposes and any fertile, heavy mixture of turf, humus and leafy soil with the inclusion of sand.

Temperature, humidity, lighting

The plant is suitable for normal room temperature. AT summer period+ 18-23 degrees should be provided, and during "sleep" in winter - 10-12 degrees of heat.

The plant does not require additional moisture, but is photophilous and must be kept on a window from the southeast or southwest. During the "sleep" flower can be placed in a room with poor lighting.

Watering a flower

When watering, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of liquid on the bulb.

• When the plant comes out of "sleep", it should be watered as needed.
• With the appearance of the arrow of the peduncle, watering is reduced until it reaches a height of 10-20 cm. After that, watering is increased.
• After flowering, regular watering is recommended, as bulbs, leaves and flower stalks are growing.
• With the onset of autumn, watering is reduced and practically stops by the end of September.
• When the flower spends the winter in a cool room, the plant can be watered once every 30-45 days. If in a warm place, then it is watered occasionally and little by little.

Top dressing and fertilizer

You need to start feeding the hippeastrum from the moment when the first leaves begin to appear, and the arrow of the peduncle grows to a height of 15 cm. But you can do this later.

At the very beginning of the growing season, fertilizers should contain nitrogen and potassium, and during the flowering period - phosphorus and potassium. It is recommended to fertilize the plant 2 times a month, and 30 days before the onset of dormancy, top dressing should be stopped.

Pruning and transplant

By the end of autumn, the leaves should die off on their own due to reduced watering and deterioration. natural light. Healthy greens should not be cut, because during natural death all the necessary substances move to the bulb. If a couple of green leaves remain on it, which will not interfere with the storage process, they can be left.

It is advisable to transplant hippeastrum once a year. Either before the flower goes to sleep, or before the start of the growing season.

It is important to know! The pot for transplanting should be deep, and the distance between the bulb and the surface of the pot should not exceed 2 cm.

1. When transplanting a flower, you need to ensure good drainage. You can take fine gravel or expanded clay.
2. Prepare the soil from the same parts of the earth, humus, sand, and sod.
3. The roots are not cut off in the process. Only dry ones are removed, and the place of the cut is sprinkled with fine charcoal.
4. The hippeastrum bulb should be placed two-thirds into the soil so that the rest is on top.

Flowering and dormancy

• Young plants usually bloom once a year, in winter or in early spring. And adults bloom in the summer, if they are well looked after.
• Basically, two, less often three peduncles are formed.
• Inflorescences are laid inside the bulb every 4 leaves.
• Leaves usually grow on both sides alternately, but when laying peduncles, two leaves grow side by side, on one side.
• The number of leaves and inflorescences depends on the care, the better it is, the more flowers there will be.

Hippeastrum needs rest to bloom indoors. Usually the dormant period lasts from early October to late December. For its onset, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering and top dressing from the end of August, and at the end of September, almost completely stop the flow of water. Basically, in hybrids, the leaves completely dry out and then they must be carefully removed. There are varieties that retain leaves for the winter, but new ones do not grow.

• When wintering in a warm room, it is necessary to monitor the root system so that it does not dry out, and sometimes water it.
• And in a cool room, the plant must be watered no more than once a month.

If you wish, you can artificially create a dormant period to get flowering more often than once a year.

It should be borne in mind that for hippeastrum summer is warm, good watering and top dressing, and winter is dry and cool (10-16 degrees). Therefore, by artificially providing such conditions, you can achieve additional flowering.

Hiperastrum reproduction

Hippeastrum propagation occurs in three ways: seeds, babies and dividing the bulb. Breeding a plant with seeds justifies itself exclusively in selection, due to the difficulties with collection. Recommended at home vegetative reproduction hippeastrum - bulbs or babies.

The number of children in the hippeastrum is small, depending on the variety and the conditions in which the plant is located. Babies appear regardless of the season and are carefully broken off during transplantation.

Large varieties are propagated by scales, because they usually have few children.

1. It is necessary to wash the bulb, cut the leaves to the root collar and reduce the roots to 2-3 cm.
2. Then it should be cut into pieces with a clean knife. You can get up to 16 parts, depending on the size of the bulb. Each of them should have a part of the bottom.
3. Pieces should be powdered with "Kornevin" or another root growth stimulator and planted in containers with coarse sand or moss so that the tops are on the surface.
4. Germinate plants at a temperature of at least 20 degrees.

Disease and pest control

Red rot is one of the most intractable hippeastrum diseases.

1. It is necessary to cut out all the infected places, cut off the dead roots, and treat the cut points with "Fundazol" and sprinkle with crushed wood ash.
2. You can soak the onion in the Maxim solution (fludioxonil) for half an hour. The treated bulb then needs to be dried for a week and planted in new soil and a new pot.

When watering with the Maxim solution, the soil will be disinfected. If possible, crushed sphagnum should be added to the soil. The bulb must be planted so that it is 2/3 above the soil - this will allow you to monitor its condition. Watering should be minimal and make sure that water does not get on the bulb.

Pests for hippeastrum are spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. They are found mainly on the leaves and under the scales of the bulb. Those pests that are visible must be removed with gauze moistened with an alcohol solution, and then the plant should be treated with Karbofos or Actellik.

• If the plant has a low peduncle or several underdeveloped leaves, this indicates a disease of the bulb or its underdevelopment.
• The diseased state of the bulb is also indicated by its softness, lethargy, the presence of brown or black spots.
• A bad sign if there are areas of rot on its surface or at the base.
• An alarm signal when insects hover around the plant.

With excessive moisture, the bulb must be dried and treated with the Maxim fungicide or a solution of maroon potassium permanganate.

1. It happens that the reason is a lack of nutrients. Accordingly, the flower must be regularly watered and fed in sufficient quantities.
2. The next reason may be waterlogging of the soil and rotting of the bulb.
3. When infected with the listed pests, the plant will also not bloom.

There are several tricks for the hippeastrum to bloom:

• The plant is finished watering in August, placed in a dry and dark place. And then start watering at the end of January. The plant will flower within 40 days.
• The bulbs are treated with water, the temperature of which is 44-46 degrees, for three hours. Then put the flower in a warm and well-lit place. The plant should not be watered until the arrow of the peduncle appears and then it should bloom within three weeks.
• In the middle of summer, the leaves are pruned sharp object treated with alcohol, and stop watering for 30 days. After this period, water and feed with complex fertilizer. By September, the plant will bloom.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

Amaryllis and hippeastrum are often difficult to distinguish, because they are so similar - bulbs of large diameter, from which slender arrows come out with flowers resembling a large bell. Amaryllis "Beauty" (A. belladonna) is rare, and the flower that sellers give out for him, in fact, is not.

Various shades of hippeastrum petals are striking:

• creamy white;
• purple;
• rich red;
• pale pink;
• bright orange;
• sometimes with streaks of a different color.

The hybrid hippeastrum flower has hollow peduncles, and up to 6 flowers are formed in its inflorescence. Amaryllis has dense flower stalks, and up to 12 flowers in the inflorescence.

Hippeastrum blooms in winter or spring, has a belt-like leaf up to 50 cm long, which usually grows after flowering, and a funnel-shaped flower 12-15 cm in diameter. Amaryllis blooms in autumn, in a leafless state, and has a flower up to 8 cm in diameter.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that although hippeastrum requires proper attention and personal care, the result is worth it! An unusual, spectacular plant will surely please everyone around with bright and delicate flowers.