How to make piece parquet at home. Working with artistic parquet: How to do it at home. Laying our parquet

Among the variety of modern floor coverings, parquet has always favorably stood out for its excellent characteristics. It is elegant and solid, practical and comfortable. Such a floor will decorate any home. It is warm, pleasant to the touch, durable and durable. To lay such a floor covering, it is not at all necessary to order an expensive team of workers - it is quite possible to make parquet with your own hands.

Before carrying out such work, it is necessary to determine the type of parquet, the variant of its installation. This will depend on the consumption of material and what appearance accept the room. It is necessary to take into account the level natural light, the direction of laying the panels, their configuration.

After that, the preparation of the base is carried out, it must be strong and as even as possible. After completion of the work, the floor needs to be cycled, i.e., it must be polished so that it becomes perfectly even and smooth. Finishing stage- This is varnishing. Before this, the parquet will need to be toned to give it the desired color. Tinting is not a mandatory step. If you want to give parquet floor originality, then you can apply tinting.

Which parquet to choose for laying?

Before buying parquet, you need to decide what type of board is suitable. Manufacturers today offer variety of options, products can be used for different conditions. For example, only for large or small rooms. All types of parquet boards are usually divided into the following groups:

Types of laying parquet "herringbone".

Parquet single-strip board. It is made using a special technology, the integrity of the wooden plate is preserved during processing. The coating is most suitable for flooring in large rooms. One-strip parquet perfectly conveys beauty natural wood, its natural structure.
The parquet two-strip board in the upper part consists of 2 dies. This makes it possible to use the coating not only in large, but also in small rooms.
The parquet three-strip board is original and unique. 3 dies are placed on one board, the surface is composite. It is this type of coating that is confused with the so-called piece parquet.
Not so long ago, beveled parquet was used only for the most expensive and elite interiors. The parquet is beautiful, it looks luxurious, solid and expensive. Today it is used for large halls, for bedrooms and living rooms with an exquisite interior.
A parquet board with a special coating and impregnation is used for rooms with high level patency, ballrooms and sports halls. In addition, there is a special waterproof variety, which is recommended for use in kitchens, dining rooms, hallways, halls.

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The process of laying parquet with your own hands

Anyone can handle parquet flooring.

Flooring methods:

floating laying;
laying with the use of special parquet glue.

There is another option for laying when the planks are additionally fastened with nails. This method is rarely used, there is no expediency in it. Floating laying consists in the fact that the planks are joined together by a tenon-groove connection. This is the easiest way, anyone can do it.

The floating method is called because the parquet is not connected to the base, a single coating is above it. This allows you to properly control temperature and humidity changes. The floor does not warp, cracks and cracks do not appear on the surface, there is no creaking. During laying, it is necessary to retreat about 1 cm from the walls - this will be the temperature gap.

Laying should begin on a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which is laid on a leveled base. Then you should lay a layer of sound insulation, for which cork is excellent. Its porous structure and unique properties make it possible to give the flooring the necessary characteristics. The floating cover is different high quality, if necessary, it can be easily repaired, i.e. replace damaged slats.

Adhesive laying of parquet is quite complex, requiring attention and labor. To complete the work you will need:

parquet planks of the selected type;
special parquet glue;
notched metal spatula;
electric drill with a nozzle construction mixer for mixing mixtures.

Before starting work, the base must be leveled, then covered with a layer of soil to ensure excellent adhesion of the adhesive and the base. The primer is selected depending on whether the floor is concrete or wood. Work should only start when room temperature, the humidity level should be normal. Glue is applied to the base after the primer has dried. small areas, as the mixture will become unusable after 20 minutes.

Planks are fastened not only with glue, but also with a lock connection. This installation method is the most durable. You should move from the far corner to front door. After the parquet is laid, it is necessary to grind the floor surface, for which special grinders with various nozzles.

The first scraping is done using coarse sandpaper, then it is necessary to process hard-to-reach places and corners with an angle grinder. The last scraping is done using fine sandpaper. It allows you to give the floor smoothness.

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Plans for laying parquet boards

You can make parquet with your own hands according to a variety of schemes. Today, the most popular are the following styling schemes:

deck board (the most common laying method);
herringbone;
diamonds;
squares;
Sheremetyevo star;
mosaic, or wickerwork.

Deck laying is the simplest.

Parquet slabs are laid with a shift of the board in each row, it is best to start work from the wall opposite the door.

The scheme is great for any premises, including small ones. There are many varieties of the deck scheme, you can independently lay the following options:

chaotic laying scatter;
board shift by 1/3;
board shift by ½;
chaotic diagonal scheme;
diagonal shift by 1/3;
diagonal shift by ½.

Laying piece parquet in a herringbone pattern: a - beacon tree, b - groove and tongue connection, 1 - grooves, 2 - combs, 3 - parquet planks.

The herringbone pattern is used for a parquet board, which has a spike on the corner sides, the joints are directed in one direction. The stacking angle of the dies can be 45 degrees or 90.

Varieties of the herringbone scheme:

regular diagonal at 90 degrees;
diagonal at 90 degrees in 2 strips;
diagonal at 90 degrees in 1 bar;
straight laying at 45 degrees;
direct scheme in 2 and in 1 bar.

It is best to lay such a scheme on glue, the surface should be perfectly aligned. One of the most popular schemes for making parquet with your own hands is laying with squares and braiding. You can use this method for any room. You can combine straight and diagonal patterns, use slats different size, shapes and colors.

Parquet board has become a very popular flooring in recent years, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, when purchasing a quality floor covering, his correct installation and compliance with the recommendations for operation, even in a humid room, the parquet board can last for a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to buy quality coating- its durability depends on proper styling. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try doing this yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying a parquet board with your own hands is a step-by-step instruction with illustrations.

The structure of the parquet board

First of all, let's remember once again what lies under the term "parquet board".

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring has remained very popular for many decades. In particular, the parquet board has become popular recently, when eco-style is reviving in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and proved to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products around the world, while remaining a leader in this field of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

The top layer of the parquet board is made of high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the appearance of the parquet board depends on the quality of this material, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as the color shade. The slats are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
For the manufacture of the middle layer are usually used conifers wood. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and give increased stability to the material. This layer consists of equally wide (20 ÷ 30 mm) perfectly processed dies, which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. On it, as a rule, lock connections are located - figured grooves and spikes.
The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully sanded, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which after application hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. Such a floor covering does not need additional varnishing after laying.

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board

Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
parquet board, quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with the image of a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. AT best case, the laminate can be coated natural veneer glued on MDF.
In parquet board solid wood is used only for the top layer, and piece parquet is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first. However, the parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than the parquet, as it has the construction described above - the alternation of layers with different direction fibers. Parquet is rather moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, parquet slabs begin to deform - to bend and warp.
Compared with the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to lay, as it has big sizes. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made even base for coatings and instructions for its installation.

It is not so easy to lay parquet, and therefore professional masters, whose work is quite expensive, are engaged in its flooring.

In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. With parquet, making corrections will be much more difficult.
Unlike parquet, parquet board goes on sale with a protective coating applied and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its flooring, requires scraping, and then coating with special oil or
A parquet board can imitate parquet, the slabs of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, and also in the form of plank floorboards.
The parquet board perfectly imitates the wooden floor. And the latter is rarely made of valuable wood, as it costs too much. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
The service life of a parquet board is 20÷30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its operation. In contrast, parquet and massive board have a longer service life, but require more careful care- sanding of painting or coating with varnish or oil. However, it must be clarified that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, which have thick enough upper layer 6 mm, can be polished 10 or even more times.

To summarize, we can conclude that the design of the parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs from laminate and linoleum in its environmental friendliness. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low in any way, however, its installation can be done independently, while it is unlikely that it will be possible to cope with the laying of natural parquet on your own.

Substrate preparation for parquet flooring

Parquet flooring can be laid on various grounds - concrete floor, plank or plywood floor, and even on an old, but durable floor, lined with ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large recesses, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

The preparatory measures before laying the parquet board include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

The first step is a thorough revision of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks widen and are sealed with concrete or other composite repair mortar(special putty). Separate recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions are broken. Small flaws can be smoothed out by laying a special substrate on the floors.
In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible that the irregularities are 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more than that.
If the quality of the base does not fit into the permissible errors, then alignment will have to be arranged. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or you can bring the floor into a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.

If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle “ brickwork", that is, in a run. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.

Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent dust.
If the board is to be laid directly on concrete surface, then a substrate is laid under it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in slabs and rolls.

A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, as it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.

Both rolled and slab materials are stacked end-to-end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a substrate, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull parquet boards along with it. In addition, the old flooring absorbs various odors during its operation, which the new parquet board cannot hide.

You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:

- an electric jigsaw, a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;

- rubber mallet - for tamping rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and building level;

- square and tape measure;

- regular and notched trowels;

- a special bracket for pulling boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.

- tamping bar. It can also be "store-bought" or homemade;

- expansion wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you need to once again conduct a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the floor surface before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains under the surface can seriously harm the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the street is quite large. In the room where the coating will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity should be 30 ÷ 60%. For “tracking down”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.

Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, it is necessary to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying. There is an opportunity to immediately determine the most good size cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
Segments of boards, reported in a row, must have a length of at least 500 mm.
When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
Parquet boards are laid "in a run". This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
Given the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.

- The easiest option, which is most often chosen for laying, is to mount the board along or across the room. At the same time, it is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and the longitudinal installation will lengthen it. Such an "optical game" will help solve the problem of a room that is too long or narrow.

- The second installation option is a diagonal masonry. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, as more her amount. This installation method is excellent for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut off clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the coating begins from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled, along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.

Technology of installation of a parquet board

Understanding the technological methods of laying this coating, you need to consider all aspects.

So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, deal with their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" parquet flooring

Such laying of a parquet board is carried out without fixing the coating to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking joints located along the edges of the boards.

Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

To "pros" This technology can include:

Simplicity and speed of laying.
Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
Possibility to replace individual floor boards in case of damage.
Ease of dismantling the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back into one of the rooms.
The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, as the design has the ability to expand the material.
Savings on the purchase of glue.
The floating cover can be operated immediately after the completion of the installation work.

"Cons" this method of laying can be considered:

"Floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 "squares".
It is not recommended for laying in rooms where a high load will be placed on the floors.
The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary under it. However, this material will cost less than special glue.

Adhesive way to install parquet boards

The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a particular type of parquet board.

Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. Wherein special meaning acquires a clear adherence to all technological recommendations, tested by masters and proven its importance.

Adhesive method installation is used if the board is planned to be laid on a concrete coating, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the first floor of the house, where there is a high probability of dampness penetrating the ceilings and walls, then it is best to soak the floors waterproofing compound deep penetration, which will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only on the floors, but also on the lower part of the walls, with a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
The next step, along one of the walls, a parquet board is laid, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, keeping the flooring level.

Further, adjusting the length of the last board in the row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula over an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wide more than the outer line of the row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
Now it's time to lay the parquet board on the glue layer. It must immediately be precisely joined to each other using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

When the entire row of boards is laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws, through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
Then on concrete base the adhesive mass is again applied and distributed over its surface.
In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already pasted board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

If the two rows do not fit snugly against each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth bar is attached to the edge of the outer row, which is gently tapped with a rubber mallet so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board. Melted tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
In this way, the entire floor covering is glued.
Do not allow adhesive to come into contact with front side parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, a clean rag should always be at hand.
When the surface of the floor of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2-3 days, without giving it any load. It is necessary to consider measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging.
After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards must be treated with an acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from getting under the boards from the outside.
When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of skirting boards, as well as an interior threshold.

It must be said that the adhesive method of fastening is selected if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

To positive aspects adhesive mounting coatings include:

The possibility of using this material on any size area.
Higher resistance to increased loads.
The method is suitable for mounting a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped above a warm water floor.

To shortcomings adhesive laying include:

The cost of purchasing glue.
Possibility of operation of the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
More complex installation of the coating.
The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
Difficulty replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying a parquet board on can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the wall on them plywood.

If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case, it is guaranteed that it will not bend under external load. In addition, lags must have large enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and fit on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the lag width.

The second option involves fixing the lag to the base in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.

Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by setting the lags in a horizontal plane according to the level.

Logs, selected under the flooring of the parquet board, must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

Depending on how much you plan to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled with special racks or studs.

If the floors along the logs are arranged in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is a must waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, a dense plastic film or roofing material.

Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulation material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.

Then, along the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of plywood are fixed, between which a compensation gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood coating in increments of 150 ÷ 180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.

Installation of a parquet board using "floating" technology - step by step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	So, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on a leveled and primed base. In the case under consideration, for this purpose, polyethylene film. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on horizontal surface floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall masking tape. But, nevertheless, it would be better to choose a dense film - this will reduce the time for work that will be required for gluing it.
	The next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it can be completely replaced with cork rolled or board material. First, only one backing sheet is laid roll type along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if you cover the room completely, it will interfere with work, moving one way or the other. Usually, the flooring is laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room.
	After that, a pre-compiled scheme for laying the material is taken and prepared spacer wedges, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. It is temporarily pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The step between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next, laying the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks at different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected, they seem to snap together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards are set exactly to the width of the previous board. If one of them is moved to outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. This illustration clearly shows how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, using a tape measure or a metal ruler, measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to avoid accidental errors during measurement, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance already from it.
	The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its wrong side. Further, according to the mark along the building corner, a line perpendicular to the edges is drawn, along which, using circular saw or an electric jigsaw is cut.
	The prepared segment is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while expansion wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of the castle, located along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it must be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed to join the boards first along the length of the row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row, and then connected to the previous board. In the same way, the entire floor covering is laid. However, probably in any room there are places that complicate the work.
	So that the board lies neatly near the front door, and the threshold is in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame it is washed down to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not yet fit into place, as it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards into doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a sub-threshold along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet to be laid, it is necessary to draw a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the substrate material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the footboard to the base.
	Further, through the mounting holes provided in the footboard, marks are made with a marker or pencil. Then the footrest is removed, and holes are drilled along the markings.
	Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then, a footrest is installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel-plugs located in the base.
	Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, cannot be lifted and fastened with a lock, as happened during the installation of the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, carpentry or other glue is applied to the cut sections of the boards with a strip, designed to fasten wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under door frame and advances to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut lock lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the beam provided for this, using a hammer, since there should not be a gap in the connection of the board with the main coating. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge into the doorway. They are laid with an edge on a footrest fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the footboard. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between two metal strips threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board in the next room, then instead of a metal threshold, you can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins with the bottom one. At the same time, it must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower profile element and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for parquet flooring is heating pipes that go into interfloor overlap. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a piece of floor material behind them, along the wall, but such laying will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying the board in front of the pipes and noting their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a building square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously marked lines.
	Thus, points will be found at which holes will need to be drilled.
	A drill bit is required to drill holes. desired diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a 30 mm diameter bit was used.
	The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut must go through the middle round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which, the rest of the board moves to the front of the pipes and joins with the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames, in appearance resembling bagels. Connectors are provided in these masking parts, allowing them to be divided in two and installed on different sides of the pipe, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the passage of pipes through the floor covering a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen, who are installing parquet boards for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating.
	In case of loose pressing of the boards of the last to the previous row, it must be tightened with special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, bent up edge. Knocking is carried out until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the coating and snaps into place.
	After pulling up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and move on to installing and fixing the skirting brackets to the wall.
	These details may be different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of plinth it is planned to arrange the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall with a step of 400÷500 mm.
	The plinth can have a flat or curly shape. Usually with it inside a cable channel is provided for communication. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid into it.
	Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is selected, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open the channel through which the skirting boards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, a strip returns to its place, which will disguise the caps of the mounting screws. Important - the plinth may have a different design, fastened in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the flooring - only to the wall!
	The last step with sharp knife the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to make a “floating” laying of a parquet board on your own, having leveled and properly prepared the base for its installation.

And at the end, traditionally - a small video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.

Video: Adhesive method of laying a parquet board on a plywood base

Art parquet- This is a floor covering laid in a special way. When laying it, the drawing is made up of two types of wood (sometimes more are used), and the details of the drawing consist of elements of different sizes.

For the first time, artistic parquet was mentioned in interior descriptions at the beginning of the 16th century. The process of its manufacture was equated to the weaving of complex and expensive carpets. It was used in the design of palaces and houses of the nobility. In the history of arts and crafts, he occupies a special place.

artistic styling- long and laborious handmade, so it has always been very expensive. Sometimes a craftsman can use about sixty types of wood to create original drawing with a smooth transition of colors and shapes. The work requires care and a responsible approach to the choice of wood: its properties are taken into account, as well as the conditions in which the flooring will be used. It is necessary to measure the humidity of the room and know the average temperature in it so that the installation does not deteriorate over time. Not every specialist will undertake such work, but thanks to modern developments, craftsmen have the opportunity to decorate the interior with their own hands.

Choice of wood

Artistic parquet in the interior of any room will look expressive if you choose the right material for its manufacture. Usually hardwoods are used: oak, larch, ash, walnut, maple and others. This choice is explained by the fact that a hardwood floor lasts longer, is easier to repair, and its laying is easier and faster.

Also, the quality of the coating is affected by the technology of wood processing. The beauty of the drawing depends on how the log is cut. There are such types of cuts: rustic, tangential, radial and transverse. Art parquet is usually made from cross-cut wood.

Techniques for the production of artistic parquet

There are several ways to draw a picture:

marquetry - the drawing is drawn from different strips, which are then glued to the base shield. This is the most popular way to make a pattern;
Count - the method lies in the fact that patterns are created by cutting grooves into which ebony is inserted. This is the old way, which is not used now;
inlay - laying the pattern occurs at a certain depth of the base. The decoration uses fragments of amber, metal, mother-of-pearl. Artistic parquet laid using this technique is more expensive and more susceptible to external influences.

Pattern selection

The layout of the parquet involves several variants of the ornament. Most often they are:

drawing "socket" - its details are made in the form of circles or ovals located in the middle of the composition. For its implementation, up to twenty types of wood are used;
modular art parquet - assembled from separate shields, which, in turn, are recruited from a certain number of dice. In this case, geometric patterns are usually drawn up;
"border" - usually used to divide space, in addition to geometric patterns, animal and plant motifs are used here.

Art parquet has several advantages over conventional parquet. First of all, it is its durability. This quality is provided by hardwoods used in the work. It is also distinguished by its high environmental safety, the ability to perfectly retain heat in the room. But the main thing is the unique styling, which gives originality, expressiveness to the room in which it is used.

Among the shortcomings, the owners of this type of flooring note a tendency to mechanical impact, high price. Some people don't like the fact that laying ends with scraping, and this is accompanied by noise and increased dust formation, however, laying ordinary parquet is also not complete without this procedure.

Making artistic parquet at home

If you want to contemplate the artistic parquet in your home, but hold back high price, you can try to make your dream come true with your own hands. Having made a decision, it is imperative to invite a specialist technologist to assess the room where the work will be done: a professional will determine the humidity, temperature, and help with the choice of base. Then a design project is drawn up. It is best for a beginner to choose a simple pattern such as "Christmas trees", "checkerboards" and the like: they will suit any interior and will not cause difficulties in execution. After that, the quantity and cost of materials are calculated, tools are selected, and all estimated costs are summed up. Having completed all the preparations, you can start making artistic parquet with your own hands.

Work is recommended to be carried out at a room temperature of 17 to 23 degrees and a humidity of 40–60%. Particular attention should be paid to the sub-base of the parquet, since the durability of the service and the strength of the floor covering itself will depend on its quality. Waterproof plywood is recognized as the leader among the bases, which is attached to the base with screws, waterproofing is preliminarily laid under it. Parquet on plywood is fixed with glue and nails.

Recently, self-taught masters have the opportunity to facilitate the work of self-laying parquet. There are ready-made modules on sale, which you can then assemble yourself. It is good to complement the design of the parquet with rosettes and friezes, for the manufacture of which are used special machines: their curvilinear shapes will contribute to geometric pattern expressiveness and originality. Artistic parquet, made by hand, subject to all the rules and technologies, will delight owners with beauty, elegance, luxury and sophistication for many years.

You will need

- building level
- wooden slats
- twine
- gypsum or alabaster
- concrete mortar or special ready mix
- plastering rule

Instruction

Install two guide rails at the edges exactly building level. Select the installation height according to the required screed thickness. Stretch several parallel strings between the slats. If the twine is not level, level it by raising or lowering one of the slats. Then install several plaster beacons at short intervals, setting them on plaster or alabaster. The beacons should lightly touch the strings (but not pull them!), and be parallel to the bars that you installed in. Thus, the room will be divided into small squares.

Then make it thin concrete mortar. To do this, dilute the cement-sand mixture at the rate of 1 part of cement to 4 parts of fine river sand. Stir and gradually add water until the mixture reaches a semi-liquid state, in which it is already possible to pour easily, but water does not yet separate. Pour each square separately, after pouring, remove the excess mortar with a plaster rule.

Leveling the floor underneath is quicker and easier if you use ready mixes, the so-called self-leveling floors. They are much easier to prepare and level the solution, but somewhat more expensive. cement mixture.

The wooden floor, if it creaks or requires a little, disassemble to the lags and shift the flooring. If their strength is beyond doubt, then this step can be skipped and simply carefully cycled or sewed onto it with floor plywood 8-10 millimeters thick.

Production of quality parquet flooring directly depends on the condition of the existing base and the choice of laying technology. Compliance with this principle when working with parquet will ensure comfort and coziness in the house.

You will need

- plywood;
- leveling mixture;
- glue for parquet;
- dowel-nails;
- Grinder;
- a vacuum cleaner;
- parquet varnish.

Instruction

Clean the surface of the subfloor from dust and dirt. Eliminate with building mixtures for leveling all screeds and irregularities. Use a mortar with high peel strength. This is very important, because the tree, due to its hygroscopicity, changes its properties under the influence of temperature and humidity. geometric parameters. AT winter period it gives off moisture, as a result of which it narrows. In summer, on the contrary, the parquet plank expands, trying to get off the plywood, which, in turn, transfers stress to the floor screed. The leveling compound must successfully withstand these conditions.

After leveling the screed, lay the plywood sheets intended for fixing the parquet plank on top of it. Cut the plywood into squares with sides of 0.5 m. To compensate for the expansion that occurs with changes in temperature and humidity, leave a gap of 0.8–1 cm between the squares.

Using a special adhesive for parquet, attach the plywood to the screed, and then nail it with dowel-nails. The latter will ensure uniform adhesion by pulling the sheets to the screed. This is also very important, because even small gaps will cause the parquet floor to creak.

Parquet is one of the main and most popular types of natural wood flooring. Parquet floors have many positive qualities, such as practicality, environmental friendliness, durability.

Wood for parquet flooring

For the manufacture of parquet floors, traditionally, hardwood is used. In turn, this wood can be divided into local (growing in Central Europe) and exotic (Africa, South America, Southeast Asia). Oak parquet is the most common, durable and beautiful. This type of parquet has a pronounced wood structure.

It is ideal for parquet, as it practically does not change the level of humidity and has a high stiffness index. Mature oak wood has shades from light brown to yellowish brown. Very elegant variegated oak. White oak acquires a grayish tint after polishing. Red oak creates a good contrast with light walls and perfectly harmonizes with the furniture.

Over time, oak darkens a little, which gives the floor a touch of noble antiquity. Beech parquet is smooth, it does not have a clearly defined wood pattern. Beech wood has a lower density and therefore it is easy to process, it is well sanded and polished. Beech wood is light, with a reddish-yellow or grayish tint.

So-called mahogany parquet - Merbau (red oak) parquet is different beautiful pattern wood, durability and hardness. In addition to the listed types of wood, alder, ebony, doussia and other types of wood are used to make parquet with their own hands.

Floors from parquet boards

It can be laid on the logs, laid on separate pillars, on a concrete base. The location and fastening of the logs should be done in such a way that the parquet boards laid on them do not sag.

The room for parquet floors must be dry. At the same time, the logs are laid on concrete or brick columns up to 250 mm high, standing on the ground at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other. For stability, brick columns must be made one and a half two bricks.
First of all, it is necessary to lay waterproofing on the posts from two or three layers of roofing felt or roofing felt, on them - antiseptic wooden or other gaskets, on the gaskets - logs 40-60 thick and 100-120 mm wide. Logs can only be joined on posts.

The surface of the columns should lie on the same level. The logs are preliminarily well dried, antiseptic and dried again (they should also lie on the same level). With damp soil underground, it must be dried, and the columns must be waterproofed at the level of 150 mm of soil and it is imperative to perform a second waterproofing along the top of the columns.

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