Honeysuckle small berries what to do. Honeysuckle edible: learn the secrets of growing. Why do we need a snowberry and comfrey next to honeysuckle

About varieties. Speaking of berry crops, one cannot help but recall the earliest and unpretentious - very valuable honeysuckle berry. Even 20 years ago, the set of varieties was very scarce and limited to varieties with low taste qualities of the berry, it was bitter and crumbled. In recent years, breeders have bred many excellent varieties with a sweet berry and resistance to fruit shedding - varieties of the Barnaul Institute of Horticulture named after Lisavenko. Not bad varieties of Krasnoyarsk, Chelyabinsk and Nizhny Novgorod selection. New varieties are mostly sweet, fruitful and do not crumble. The best of the best for these indicators are the varieties Bakcharsky giant, Chulymskaya, Silginka, Bakcharskaya jubilee and Sibiryachka. Berel and Fire Opal have bitterness, but these are the most productive varieties. Their yield at 8 years of age is up to 8 kg per bush - this is a little more than a bucket of full-fledged and very healthy berries. For comparison, the yield of old varieties Blue Bird, Blue Spindle and others is from 1.5 to 3 kg per bush.

What is valuable and useful for this relatively new culture for our gardens - honeysuckle? First of all, it gives us vitamin products before anyone else. It’s mid-June outside, there’s still nothing in the garden except for onions and radishes, and on your table there is a long dark berry with a blue bloom. As soon as the first berries begin to turn blue on the bushes, children especially pinch them with pleasure, the lips and tongue from it become the same blue. Natural strong colors of honeysuckle berries consist of valuable trace elements iron, copper, manganese and iodine, which is so lacking in our food.

Landing. Honeysuckle enters the growing season very early, its leaves bloom early and flowering falls on the 1st or 2nd decade of May, so it is recommended to plant it as soon as possible. earlier in the spring or in autumn. Some gardeners are in a hurry to plant honeysuckle seedlings in August. Do not hurry! There are certain time frames. Planting of berries begins on September 10, fruit - even later. This is due to the physiological processes occurring in plants. shrub and fruit trees must prepare for winter, important nutrients must move from the leaves to the bark. The bark and wood should mature, coarsen. Only in this case the plant will winter well and then take root. For successful pollination, you will need to purchase 2-3 different varieties, only in this case will high yield on all bushes. This is due to the fact that honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant. The presence of different varieties on the site is required.

Very often, novice gardeners are confused by the appearance of the acquired seedlings, which have flaky bark, often removed with ribbons - this is a phenotypic feature of the culture that has nothing to do with the poor quality of the seedling. For this reason, it is often called the "shameless plant" among the people. The main sign of good quality is a developed root system and the presence of living buds on the branches, which are now easy to detect.

Honeysuckle is planted nearby, at a distance of 1.5? 2m from each other. Honeysuckle does not grow well and bears fruit on sandy soils, so in such places it is necessary to fill the pit well with organic fertilizers, leaf humus and soddy soil with the addition of wood ash and superphosphate, and water well after planting. Honeysuckle seedlings are planted directly, deepening the root collar by 3–5 cm. Unlike many seedlings fruit crops honeysuckle after planting is not pruned.

Where is the best place to plant honeysuckle? Many recommend sunny places for her - this is clear to a fool, everyone loves the sun. But my many years of experience in growing honeysuckle tells a different story - honeysuckle is perfectly reconciled with shade and partial shade. For example, from a bush located in partial shade, I get a higher yield than from those located in the sun all day. This is very easy to explain. In nature, honeysuckle grows in the undergrowth along the banks of rivers, so it is not afraid of partial shade. Feel free to plant it where there is no sun for half a day, and you will be with the harvest.

From honeysuckle you can make a beautiful hedge, growing, it gives dense thickets, through which it is difficult to get through. The indisputable advantage of honeysuckle is that it is not very loved by pests and has practically no diseases, the harvest is stable over the years. Winter-hardy, drought-resistant, requires minimal attention, and most importantly durable, can grow in one place up to 40 years.

Growing Features. The first three years, honeysuckle grows very slowly and only for 4-5 years gives a good increase. Honeysuckle is a long-lived culture, in nature specimens whose age exceeded 50 years were found. On the garden plot honeysuckle can grow up to 25 years. Anti-aging pruning begins at the age of 10 years. By this time, the honeysuckle bushes are strongly thickened and the growth of annual shoots, on which the main crop is formed, is significantly reduced. To constantly maintain one-year growth, it is recommended to cut at least one old unproductive branch every 2 years.

Aphid. Honeysuckle, as a rule, is rarely affected by pests and, in particular, by aphids. However, there were years when calls were actively received to me with complaints about what to do, all the honeysuckle was in a smoldering state. If the bushes are without berries, you need to urgently treat with any preparation for aphids (actellik, sherpa, spark). If a bush with a berry, then arrange aphids "puzzle", prepare an infusion of wood ash (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), dissolve a quarter of a pack in it laundry soap. Spray with this solution, the affected bushes 2-3 times, depending on the degree of damage.

www.shubina.info

Why doesn't honeysuckle bear fruit? Why does honeysuckle bear fruit poorly?

1. Young bush. A bush of wild honeysuckle (its berry is small and bitter) lives up to 100 - 120 years! Therefore, it begins to bear fruit only at 5 - 7 years. Cultural honeysuckle (with sweet and larger berries) lives up to 15 years, but also begins to bear fruit, at 5 years. Advice: wait a bit - let the bush grow.
2. Color killed by frost. Since this is the earliest flowering shrub, the weather can present its surprises. Although the bush itself is winter-hardy, the flowers are the most delicate organs, and can die, even when they set fruit. Advice: in the fall, fill the trunk circle with sawdust - they hold snow and ice under them for a long time, do not allow the earth to thaw. Your honeysuckle will bloom later than the neighbor's, but it will definitely give a harvest.
3. No more insects. Very early spring: the bushes are already blooming, but there is no one to pollinate. Advice: again, salvation is the introduction of sawdust in the fall, to delay the flowering period. The introduction of various rotten meat under a bush attracts only flies and other scavengers. Honeysuckle won't help.
4. Different varieties. It is a cross pollinated plant. Plant at least one "savage". Don't be afraid of wild honeysuckle. The bitterness from the wild berry disappears when the jam is frozen and cooked. And in terms of useful substances and vitamins, it is far ahead of the cultural one! Advice: it is best to plant cultivated and wild varieties together.
5. Lack of sun. Honeysuckle will not bear fruit in the shade! This is a photophilous plant. Even being in the light, 90% of the berries are formed at the ends of the branches, and even the leaves do not want to grow in the middle of the bush. Advice: or transplant honeysuckle, or clean up the neighbors.
6. Wind protection. The honeysuckle flower itself is designed in such a way that the insect still needs to “tinker” with it, and for this there should be no wind. Advice: plant a bush in a place protected from the wind, and if this is not possible, make the walls yourself - shelters.
7. decorative varieties. Yes, these are bred - "Tatarskaya" and "Kaprifol". It blooms beautifully, but does not produce useful berries. Advice: take a closer look - double flowers are only for beauty.
8. Micronutrient deficiencies. Wild varieties can grow even on poor soil and bear fruit, but this will not work with cultivated ones. Advice: humus is needed in spring, phosphorus in summer, ash in autumn.
9. Bush aging. In cultivated varieties, it is observed already at 8-10 years. Advice: it is necessary to carry out rejuvenating pruning: in summer, after picking berries, cut off all branches by 20–30 cm, bring the shape of the bush to the shape of a “ball on a leg”. On the next year the bush will “rest” and gain strength, and in a year the annual fruiting will begin again.
10. Diseases. Pests, as a rule, bypass honeysuckle, but diseases can lie in wait. Advice: the bush should be ventilated, so you need to cut thickening branches. And autumn dusting with ash!



Honeysuckle Tatar - flowering shrub for a hedge. But the berries are poisonous!



Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a flowering liana, also with poisonous berries.



Common honeysuckle - blooms imperceptibly, but very useful!

It is not for nothing that this berry was called like this: HONESKY - giving LIFE and YOUTH!

There are several reasons.

11. Honeysuckle is still young. However, it begins to bloom quite early, still a small bush.
12. It flowers but does not bear fruit. This means that either there are no pollinators, or during pollination there was bad weather (long rains) and the pollinators were not working. If everything is in order with pollinators, then the reason is the lack of minerals - primarily phosphorus, potassium, manganese. Throw complex mineral fertilizers under the bushes, or better, pour them with a solution of these fertilizers.
13. Honeysuckle does not bloom and, accordingly, does not bear fruit. This may be due to a lack of minerals (see above) or due to the aging of the bush. The honeysuckle bush lives for about 10 years, then slowly fades away. The first sign of extinction is the lack of flowering. Rejuvenate it with root suckers if available. If you have a bush for a long time and suddenly ceased to bear fruit - this is a sure sign of aging.
14. Disease. The bush can be damaged by pests that can eat roots, settle in branches, or eat young shoots. Honeysuckle has bactericidal properties, so its pests are rarely eaten, but still eaten.

www.bolshoyvopros.ru

Why blueberries do not grow well

Why garden blueberries do not grow is the question of many novice summer residents who have not figured out the nature of this culture. But blueberries are one of the most useful berries, and besides, they are incredibly tasty. In stores, it is quite expensive, and not everyone has the opportunity to collect it in the forest. Therefore, for many gardeners, growing blueberries on their site can be a great solution. We analyze the errors of growing tall blueberries.

The main mistakes why garden blueberries do not grow

In general, growing blueberries is much easier than you might think. Basically, it requires care only in the first season, and in subsequent years, care is minimized, but the crop can be harvested in buckets! However, when growing even such an undemanding plant, some mistakes can be made. Here are the top four and how you can avoid them.



1. Unknown soil acidity

Most plants grow well in soil with a wide pH range. But not blueberries. She prefers acidic soil, somewhere between 4.0 and 5.0. Various plots gardens can have different pH values, and given that blueberry bushes live for several years, it is worth knowing the pH of the soil before planting.

If the soil in your area is not acidic enough, you can add sulfur, but it will take time for the soil acidity to change. If you want to plant blueberries this coming season, try using container plantings or raised beds with the right soil. Or carefully prepare landing pit like in this video:

Even if the soil is acidic, it will be good to add peat to the soil, pine needles, wood chips (not fresh) and even ground coffee. Remember, blueberries have the same root system as rhododendrons, they feed on mycorrhiza. Insufficient acidity does not allow the mushroom root to develop well and blueberries are deficient in nutrition (especially nitrogen), the leaves become light, chlorotic:


2. Lack of mulch

Blueberries have a superficial root system, which dries out unless a thick layer of mulch is used to protect the soil from moisture evaporation. It is recommended to cover the soil around the bushes with a layer wood chips 10 cm in spring and autumn.

Another benefit of mulch is that it inhibits the growth of weeds. Again, because of the shallow roots, blueberry bushes will suffer from weed competition for water and nutrients.

3. Insufficient drainage

Blueberries do not like "wet feet". Make sure the blueberry growing area is well-drained. Remember that this is not an annual crop, and it is better to choose right away appropriate place and properly prepare it.

4. Planting only one bush

Blueberries are not self-pollinating. At least two different varieties should grow close to each other so that they can pollinate each other. In other words, if you only plant one bush, you will end up with a pretty plant with attractive flowers, but no berries. In addition, it should be noted that not all varieties are equally well suited for pollinating each other. It is better to choose well-matched plants.



Now you know why garden blueberries do not grow or bear fruit poorly on your site. Analyze and correct errors before it's too late, otherwise you will lose not only the crop, but also the bushes themselves. I wish you success!

What to do if pepper seedlings grow poorly? Causes and control measures

Experienced gardeners like to grow their seedlings on their own, without resorting to purchase options. By investing your whole soul in your harvest, following the growth process from seed to large fruits, with proper control of growth, the most remarkable result is obtained. What a pleasure to hold the result of your own labors in your hands!

The process of growing seedlings is a complex and time-consuming task that requires skills and knowledge. Many questions often arise. For example, when to start landing? How to prepare for landing in the ground? Why pepper seedlings grow poorly and what to do?

Main key points indicated below. Pay attention to all the subtleties - the volume of the future harvest depends on it.

Wrong choice of soil



The quality of planting land is the main and main condition for successful seedlings. Just digging up land in the country is not enough to get a good seedling front.

What should be the soil for planting pepper:

1. Airy, crumbly, well-permeable to water. To achieve this result, the earth is mixed with sand or sawdust. It is better to use sawdust deciduous trees- birch, mountain ash, aspen, oak.
2. Have a pH neutral composition, that is, a certain level of acidity. This factor is very important, so you should take the choice of soil very seriously.

With an increase in acidity, much less is supplied to the roots of the plant. nutrients that are necessary for growth. Result: the plant dies of starvation.

Among other things, bacteria actively develop in an acidic environment, so it is unlikely that you can boast of a rich harvest.

If you are a gardener with experience, then a device such as a pH meter will definitely come in handy on the farm. It determines in a few minutes qualitative composition soil with a high degree accuracy.

Not friendly with technology? Then take on board folk methods:

15. Pour the earth with table vinegar - if the soil is neutral, then bubbles will be visible on its surface;
16. Grape juice help - put a handful of earth in a glass of juice. When the color changes or bubbles appear, feel free to pick up the ground for seedlings.

Also, the soil must have a useful environment for the germination of fruits. Particularly vigilant gardeners love to disinfect the soil, while actions often reach the point of absurdity. The soil killed by microwave rays is unable to sprout, and the soil fried in a pan is unlikely to give at least one fruit.

If you are a supporter of the fight against bacteria on preparatory stage, then do not forget that after any processing the soil needs to be shaken. You can “cheer up” it with such microbiological fertilizers as Baikal or Extrasol.

The soil must contain a variety of elements for the rapid growth of plants. To enrich the soil with nitrogen, use humus or compost. An important point: rotting plants, manure in the decomposition phase is categorically not suitable for this. The process of decay is accompanied by an active release of heat into the environment, and with it, useful substances (including nitrogen) also volatilize.

Mineral fertilizers are commercially available everywhere, their cheap and affordable analogue- ash.

Ready mix for planting can also be purchased at the store. When choosing, pay attention to the composition: if the product consists only of peat, feel free to discard this option. And if chernozem and bark are added to it, it will do just fine.

The soil should not contain clay in large quantities. Alumina will absorb moisture well, but it will not hold it. Water passes through the clay and the plants are left without life-giving fluid, which means that their growth slows down or is reduced to nothing. No matter how much water is poured into the clay, it instantly goes further.

If for some reason you could not prepare high-quality soil in advance, then the situation can still be saved. When picking or transplanting a plant into open ground, add more good soil to the existing soil. Form a voluminous lump, and feel free to continue planting - the peppers will grow healthy.

Unprepared pepper seeds



plant unprepared seeds- means to reduce the likelihood of seedlings by 10-15%. In the absence of proper preparation, the seeds germinate longer, and the seedlings do not develop too strong. While the neighbors will already begin to bear fruit, you risk getting only thin stalks blooming.

Store-bought or self-harvested seeds must first be discarded. What does it mean? Seeds for 15-20 minutes are placed in a container with salt water (4 tablespoons per liter of water is enough). Full-fledged, heavy seeds, when wet, go to the bottom, and empty, unsuitable for planting, float up.

After you have decided on the source material, direct preparation begins.

The first stage of preparation is preventive disinfection. For this you need:

17. Prepare strong solution potassium permanganate. Its color should be bright pink.
18. Soak the seeds in the solution for about half an hour.
19. Rinse the treated material thoroughly with clean water.

The second stage is the stimulation of plant growth. Seeds take a bath in a solution of a special preparation (for example, "Bud", "Ovary") for 2-3 hours. In the process of soaking, it is necessary to monitor the change in appearance: as soon as the seeds are swollen, they can be pulled out to dry.

You can prepare a growth stimulator at home. The infusion is prepared from dried nettles in the proportion of 1 tablespoon per cup of boiling water. Let stand until cool, stirring occasionally and pressing on the grass.

The third stage is seed germination. It is considered alternative. Swollen ready-made seeds are quite capable of producing full-fledged seedlings. But if you want even more guarantee, you can wait for the appearance of small sprouts.

Incorrect timing of sowing



It is necessary to prepare seedlings for planting in advance, but if you get down to business too early, the plants will stretch into growth and bloom early. Perhaps the appearance of ovaries even before transplanting into open ground.

To determine when to sow, follow the seed manufacturer's instructions. On the back of the package, it is always indicated at what time to start sowing, to transplant seedlings, by what time to wait for the start of the harvest. The most suitable time for sowing is 2, and preferably 2.5 months before the planned landing.

It is important to check with favorable time works with lunar calendar. Since the cycles of the moon directly affect the growth and development of plants, seedlings will take better if they are planted during the waxing moon.

The sowing calendar is not grandmother's tales, as advanced gardeners used to think. The interaction of the Earth and the Moon has a planetary scale. The satellite of our planet alone controls the ebbs and flows of all the earth's seas and oceans. So is there any doubt that the moon also affects the living organisms that inhabit the Earth?

During the waning moon, the growth processes in living organisms slow down, but with its renewal, the pace of development becomes much faster.

Wrong temperature



For the rapid and proper development of seedlings, you need in moderation warm air, fertile soil and sufficient water.

The place where the seedlings are located must be securely sheltered from wind or drafts that can provoke a plant disease (for example, rotting, fungal ailments). But it is still necessary to carefully ventilate the room. Excessive heat leads to weakness and thinning of the stems.

In the room where seedlings grow at the initial stage (from sowing to the appearance of the first sprouts) should be at least 15 ° C. When the seedlings have already sprouted well, the conditions are close to natural, i.e. about 25 ° C in sunny days and about 20°C in cloudy weather.

Soil temperature is just as important as ambient temperature. If the soil is too cold, the result will be sad.

Possible troubles:

20. putrefactive processes in the root system;
21. poor absorption of nutrients by the roots;
22. poor seedling growth.

Be sure to measure the temperature of the soil, even if the apartment is warm enough. ambient air will not warm the ground sufficiently if cold is blowing on it, for example, from window glass.

The degree of soil heating should be within 26-28 degrees during germination and 20-22 degrees after hardening of seedlings.

It is undesirable to place containers with seedlings on window sills. Causes:

23. Cold air when opening and closing the window can freeze immature sprouts or supercool the soil.
24. Hot streams from the battery under the windowsill heat the ground too much. Even with sufficient watering, it will be difficult for the seeds to germinate due to the development of putrefactive bacteria.
25. Direct Sun rays can cause burns to young plants.

Therefore, it is better to use special shelves, which are very convenient to use, take up little space and can be moved (if there are wheels).

Seedlings need to be watered warm water to ensure a comfortable temperature.

lack of lighting



The lack of light catastrophically affects the growth of seedlings. With its small amount, crops can stop in their development, freeze in one pore. Seedlings released only two leaves and stopped growing further? The reason is undoubtedly the lack of light.

If the light in the room falls only from the side of the window, then the peppers will only turn in this direction. Since plants always reach for the sun, the seedlings will eventually become elongated and askew, the main part of the leaves will move to the illuminated side.

In order for all plants to receive a vital portion of light, there is a simple way out - to use additional illumination. Typically, fluorescent lamps are used as a source of illumination. It is suspended or otherwise fixed above the seedlings so that it is fixed at a distance of 25 cm above the tops of the plants.

Important point: the lamp will need to be moved from time to time in accordance with the growth of the tops.

The best option is one long lamp. But if the seedlings are located in such a way that it is impossible to fulfill this condition, you can install several pieces at the same height. So all plants will have enough light, and their growth will be healthy.

Provide natural level illumination will help screen made of foil. It can be glued to the wall of a bookcase or cabinet, and it will reflect the light emitted by the lamp. This is the most comfortable way to recreate daylight for seedlings.

Since the duration daylight hours is very small in winter, it is advisable to leave the lamp on until late at night. Thanks to this, the plants will be able to significantly increase in growth and prepare for planting.

Picking is the process of dividing the total mass of seedlings into individual containers, each of which will grow only one pepper.
The picking process is not easily tolerated by plants.

The root system of peppers and tomatoes recovers slowly. Plants after separation lag behind in growth from similar ones grown by the pickless method, on average by 2-3 weeks.

After picking, it is even possible to lose part of the seedlings - plants with an immature root system are guaranteed not to withstand such a procedure. To get around it, you need to think over the layout of seedlings, give each bush enough space.

If it is difficult enough to do this (for example, seedlings are grown in a city apartment, where there is very little space for placing containers), then the seedlings begin to grow in a common box, and then a delicate dive is made.

26. The picking start time is the appearance of at least 6 leaves in peppers. If there are fewer of them, then the seedlings are still too small, and you should not disturb the roots.
27. A few days before the proposed procedure, you need to finish watering. So the earth will be moderately dense, which will fix the separated roots, and the roots themselves will be less torn and injured.
28. Before diving plants, you need to prepare new dishes, soil, water for irrigation. The dishes should be tall so that there is enough room in it for the roots and to support the stems and first leaves. Holes must be made in the bottom of the container so that the water leaves and does not stagnate - excess water will cause the roots to rot.
29. After appropriate preparation, carefully separated plants are planted in a new dish, gently sprinkled with earth and slightly watered with warm water. It is important to pay special attention to the transplanted peppers in the early days: a slight wilting of the leaves is possible. If the picking is carried out according to all the rules, then the plant is quickly restored.

Wrong feeding



Even with excellent initial soil, reserves useful substances are quickly depleted. The volume of earth in a pot is very small, and the seedlings develop, gain strength and absorb minerals until they are completely depleted.

Pepper is a unique vegetable, it is truly a storehouse of vitamins. At the same time, he needs plentiful, but not frequent top dressing. Feeding two (maximum three) times before landing will be enough.

When is the right time to do it? by the most the right time there will be the following points:

30. The first application - with the appearance of two or three leaves. During this period, the plant is actively developing, it needs special care and a large number of nutrients.
31. The second application - after transplanting (picking) seedlings. Plants are weakened after separation, minerals are needed to maintain their vitality and stimulation active growth further.
32. The third application - a few days before planting in open ground. Peppers will have to adapt to extreme conditions, so it is imperative to maintain and strengthen the strength of the plant.

The diet of peppers must include nitrogen fertilizers and minerals. Lack of sufficient nutrition leads to growth inhibition.

What happens if a plant is deprived of:

• nitrogen - the stem becomes thinner, the leaves are faded from lack of nutrition, seedlings develop very slowly;
• phosphorus - the stem is bent, the plant stops growing;
• potassium - there is no ovary of flowers, the harvest will be poor.

If your wards do not grow well, then the reason may also be a lack of trace elements. The obligatory ones are iron and copper. With an insufficient amount of fertilizers in the soil, seedlings are prone to mass diseases.

Cook inexpensive organic fertilizers at home you can use ordinary nettles and ash.

Excessive improper watering



Watering seedlings is a whole ceremony, which should be neat and unhurried. Simply pouring water from a bottle into containers with seedlings is an option for amateurs.

Too much moisture is just as unacceptable as drought.



The slow growth of seedlings, and hence poor yields in the future, are explained by plant diseases. Bacteria, fungi or insects are equally dangerous if you do not provide timely assistance.

Most often, diseases appear in flooded soil in a company with low temperatures.

How to support a sick plant:

• The first step is to isolate diseased seedlings from healthy ones: this minimizes the risk of infection and all other plants. Then you need to get rid of diseased leaves, create comfortable conditions for the plant (avoid excessive watering or drying out, monitor the temperature of the ambient air and soil).
• If the plant continues to wither, use drugs to fight diseases (for example, "Barrier", "Barrier"). For these purposes, ash, popular with gardeners, is also suitable, it will not only help feed an exhausted plant, but also relieve pests and a detrimental pathogenic effect.
• In the event that none of the methods has yielded results, the infected pepper will have to be disposed of. Be sure to throw away the ground, it is enough to disinfect the container from under the seedlings.
• Worsening of the general condition or problems on separate area(for example, leaves) - the reason that pests have settled somewhere. These are small beetles, mites, aphids. Their main food is the nutritious juices from the leaves of the plant, so most often they stick around the leaves, and after completely sucking out the life-giving juices, they move to the roots.
• Regularly inspect the seedlings for pests or their traces (holes in the leaves, laid eggs, plaque on the leaves). If they have not bypassed your seedlings, be fully armed.
• Insecticides are used to directly control phyto-pests. "Match", "Confidor" and other drugs have an active structure that is dangerous for humans. Therefore, when using them, protective equipment is necessary. A prerequisite is the cultivation and spraying of seedlings with gloves, without inhaling vapors of toxic substances. Avoid contact of drugs with dishes and food. After handling plants, wash hands thoroughly with soap and water.

If there are no pests on the seedlings, but you are worried, you can take a number of preventive measures:

• Folk method: spraying with infusions of onion or garlic, as well as marigolds (calendula). Coniferous infusion also has excellent antibacterial properties.
• Hardening - take out seedlings on a short time to the air (on the balcony or in the garden). So plants get used to the external environment and adapt to it. An important point: hardening should not be carried out simultaneously with watering (spraying), so that the sun's rays do not burn the leaves and stems.

Unprepared open ground



The time of planting seedlings in open ground plays important role. There is no need to rush or delay the landing.

Even if the spring turned out to be cold and protracted, wait for the moment when a stable temperature is established and the earth warms up to no less than 15 degrees at a depth of 10 cm. How to measure this? Dig a hole half the height of a shovel and measure the temperature of the soil with an ordinary thermometer.

Immediately before transplanting, open ground is shed with warm water to create comfortable conditions and increase survival.

At the initial stage of growth (1.5-2 weeks), it is better to water the seedlings with warm water. This helps to protect still weak roots from hypothermia. Only transplanted plants should be fertilized moderately, once (in case of urgent need - 2 times) during the first month of growth.

Ideally, the site on which the pepper is planted should be protected from strong winds, since the seedlings are hard to tolerate sudden gusts and can break off or die. But to protect the stems, it is not necessary to deepen the plant much into the planting hole, so the crop will ripen longer, and the fruits will grow small.

Experienced gardeners distinguish important point: peppers grow well in the beds after beans, peas, cucumbers.

Planting sweet and bitter varieties of peppers nearby is not recommended. Often the ovaries are pollinated, sweet pepper can become bitter and vice versa. Outwardly, no tricks are observed, but in the process of eating a surprise can be expected.

How to feed tomatoes that do not grow well

Adding an article to a new collection

Tomatoes are often deficient in nutrients, light and moisture. Under adverse conditions environment their growth slows down. Is it possible to stimulate the growth of tomatoes so that they continue to grow and bear fruit?

Growing tomatoes is always fraught with certain difficulties, since this culture is rather whimsical and requires constant attention. The first problems are usually associated with the fact that the tomatoes begin to lag behind in growth. If you notice signs of a slowdown in growth, then it's time to move on to measures that will help restore strength to weakened plants and give you the desired harvest.

Tomatoes need top dressings that contain iron, manganese, copper, boron, zinc, molybdenum, iodine, selenium and cobalt

Why do tomatoes grow poorly

Tomato growth retardation is usually associated with nitrogen deficiency. In the event of a shortage of this main nutrient, the growth of apical and lateral shoots stops, and young leaves begin to turn yellow. If there are not enough sulfur compounds, then the stem becomes thinner and hardens, remaining dwarfed.

For tomatoes grown in a greenhouse, it is important to maintain the required temperature and humidity, as well as the feeding regimen. The slowdown in the growth of tomatoes in the greenhouse occurs due to the following reasons:

• too high or, on the contrary, too low air temperature in the greenhouse;
• increased or insufficient air humidity;
• high or low soil moisture;
• unbalanced composition of fertilizers.

Eliminating the first three causes is fairly easy. In particular, during the pollination period, the air temperature in the greenhouse should be in the range of 24-28°C. In cloudy weather, it should not exceed 20-22°C. At night, the air temperature should not fall below 18°C. Accordingly, at an air temperature of about 32°C, pollen loses its qualities, and at an air temperature below 15°C, pollination stops altogether.

Intensive nutrition should be provided to the plant in the middle of summer, during the period of fruit formation.

The optimal level of air humidity, which allows the formation of an ovary, is 65%. However, the greenhouse should be ventilated regularly. Soil moisture should be in the range of 70-75%, so it is necessary to provide plants with regular watering with settled water at a temperature of 24-26 ° C.

The situation is more complicated with top dressing, although they are often the main reasons for slowing down the growth of tomatoes.

How to feed tomato seedlings for good growth

It is necessary to start top dressing of tomatoes at the earliest stages, even before sowing seeds for seedlings. Among the "home" remedies you can use aloe juice. It is a natural growth stimulant that is easy to obtain at home. Cut off the large bottom leaves of aloe, put them in the refrigerator for 12 hours, and then squeeze the juice. Put the seeds for a day in aloe juice and then leave to germinate in a humid environment without washing off the juice.

First feeding of seedlings should be carried out after the appearance of the first true leaf. As the sprout develops, it switches to nutrition with the help of its own root system, since the supply of nutrients from the seed has already been exhausted. At this time, nitrogen and phosphorus are required for the successful growth of tomatoes. Therefore, the following preparations are used: Uniflor-growth, Mortar, Kemira-Lux. These drugs are used in the form of solutions, adding 1 tsp to 5 liters of water. composition.

At home, you can prepare a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and spill the ground for seedlings on it. This procedure will disinfect the soil and protect plants from many diseases.

By the time of picking, tomato sprouts are already quite tall, their root system is actively developing, and second, “real” leaves appear on the sprouts. After the pick plants should be fed with Uniflor-buton solution. To do this, dilute 1 tsp in 2 liters of water. drug.

Among vegetable growers, one of the most popular remedies is Zircon. Thanks to its action, the germination of seeds increases, and the flowering of future bushes is also accelerated. On average, the growth and development of tomatoes accelerates by 5-10 days. 1 ml of Zircon contains 40 drops, 0.1 ml, respectively, 4 drops. Spraying of plants during the growing season is carried out using a working solution - 1 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water or 0.1 ml of the drug per 1 liter of water. Ready solution should be stored in a dark place for no more than a day.

The main thing to remember when preparing nutrient solutions? tomatoes should not be overfed and fertilized thoughtlessly

How to feed tomato seedlings to be plump

Two weeks after a successful pick, you should take care of the future bountiful harvest. To do this, at home, no more than three top dressings should be organized with an interval of 14 days according to one of the following recipes:

• in 10 liters of water dissolve 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of urea and 15 g of potassium chloride;
• in 2 liters of warm water, add 1 tbsp. ash without a slide and let it brew for 24 hours. Strain the solution before use so that the pieces of ash do not fall on the plants;
• 2/3 fill 3 liter container eggshell and fill with water. Let the mixture brew for 3 days, and then dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1:3.

How to feed tomato seedlings in the ground

Recipes for further feeding will depend on where you plant seedlings - in open ground or in a greenhouse. Consider the most effective top dressing for tomatoes planted in the ground:

• when planting seedlings, put in a hole a handful of compost or humus, a little wood ash and 1 tsp. superphosphate;
• do not throw away bread crumbs throughout the year and dry them in the oven. Soak dried leftovers in warm water and leave overnight. While loosening the earth, add the resulting slurry under the roots. This enhances root formation, increases the endurance and productivity of tomatoes;
• for quick fruit ripening, use a tincture of the following ingredients: dilute 1 tbsp. superphosphate in a glass of water and let it brew for 48 hours. After that, dilute the infusion with 10 liters of water and mix. After spraying, the tomato leaves will darken slightly, photosynthesis processes will go more actively, and the fruits will ripen earlier than usual;
• dissolve 10 drops of iodine in 1 liter of milk or whey, dilute the composition in 9 liters of water and mix. Water the tomatoes at the rate of 2 liters of the composition for each bush;
• take 1 tsp. boric acid, copper sulfate, potassium magnesia and add a little potassium permanganate to them (on the tip of a knife). Then grate a piece of laundry soap and dissolve everything in 10 liters of water. Spray bushes evenly 1-2 times per season;
• prepare 0.5 l of infusion chicken manure, 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. superphosphate. Then dilute the contents in 10 liters of water. First, it is better to dissolve the superphosphate and let it brew for 24 hours, and then add the rest of the ingredients. Under each bush, add at least 1 liter of such a solution;
• every two weeks, feed the tomatoes with ash infusion. Pour 1 cup of ash into 10 liters of water and let it brew for 2-3 hours. Apply 1.5-2 liters of funds under each bush.

If in hot weather flowers began to crumble, it is recommended to spray with a solution of boric acid at the rate of 5 g per 10 l of water

How to feed tomato seedlings in a greenhouse

Top dressing of tomatoes in a greenhouse is somewhat different from fertilizing in open ground. Usually 2-3 feedings are enough per season, but if you notice that the tomatoes are not growing well, additional stimulation can be done every 10-12 days. For example, one of the following compositions:

• carry out the first top dressing 2 weeks after plant transplantation. 1 tbsp dilute urea in 10 liters of water. Bring 1-2 liters of composition under each young bush - it will help them grow green mass. Also spread a few peas under each bush. In this case, during each watering, nitrogen will gradually be absorbed by the soil and flow to the roots;
• as organic means, slurry or dry manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 is best suited. You can also use chicken manure at the rate of 200-250 g per 10 liters of water. The resulting solution is infused for a day, and then the tomatoes are watered under the root at the rate of 2-3 liters per plant;
• beneficial effect on the growth and development of plants in the greenhouse foliar top dressing trace elements. You can also cook them on your own. You will need 4 g of manganese sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate, the same amount of boric acid and zinc sulfate. All substances are diluted in 10 liters of water and the plants are sprayed in the evening or in cloudy weather to avoid burning the leaves. It is necessary to carry out top dressing no more than 1 time per month;
• take 1 tbsp. mineral fertilizer Humate and mix with 10 liters of water. Add 1 tbsp. complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, potassium, copper, manganese and molybdenum. Under each bush, add about 0.5 liters of solution;
• during the blooming of the third and fourth flower brush, feed the tomatoes with potassium humate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). For 1 sq.m. greenhouses should be made up to 5 liters of the composition;
• the last top dressing can be done when green tomatoes have already appeared on the bushes. It allows you to speed up the process of ripening fruits. To prepare it, dilute 1 tbsp. superphosphate in 1 liter of water. Infuse the resulting mixture for a day, then mix with 9 liters of water.

From mid-July, all top dressing, as well as abundant watering of tomatoes, must be stopped.

"Miracle" fertilizer for tomatoes from yeast

Yeast fertilizer is considered the leader among fertilizers and various top dressings applied to tomato beds. The basis of the biomaterial are fungi rich in proteins, organic iron, amino acids and microelements. Yeast actively contributes to:

Yeast rebuilds the structure of the soil and activates the activity of microorganisms living in it. Which, in turn, release nitrogen and potassium into the soil.

It is necessary to apply yeast top dressing no earlier than a week after planting tomato seedlings in the ground. Repeat top dressing before flowering.

How to prepare yeast dressing for tomatoes? Very simple. Buy in store baker's yeast(100 g) and fill them with 10 liters of water. To speed up the fermentation process, you can add 2 tbsp. Sahara. Leave the composition to ferment for a day. Then mix it with 50 liters of water. After that, you can water the tomatoes.

There is also a more "advanced" version of this recipe:

Mix all ingredients. Let the composition brew for a day and dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:10.

For watering, use a watering can with a strainer and apply about 0.5 liters of top dressing under young plants. Closer to the beginning of flowering, 1.5-2 liters of liquid can be added. In this case, the soil should be slightly moist.

Choose baker's yeast over brewer's yeast for sourdough

Tomatoes that are not growing well need your extra help. Give them a little more of your attention and care, and a bountiful harvest will not keep you waiting.

One of the very first berries that appear on the tables of compatriots is blue or, as it is also called, edible honeysuckle. In addition to the refreshing sweet-sour taste, it has great amount medicinal properties, which are comparable in strength to pharmacy drugs. Unfortunately, few gardeners manage to get big harvest even from several shrubs, because honeysuckle is a rather whimsical plant.

The composition and benefits of berries

garden honeysuckle- a storehouse of vitamins and minerals. healing properties possess not only berries, but also roots, leaves and even the bark of a shrub. The culture contains a large amount of organic acids, calcium, potassium, phosphorus and iodine. It is saturated with vitamins of groups A, B and C, useful fructose and pectin. Also, the berries of the plant include manganese, sodium and silicon, keeping them even when frozen or dried.

Low-calorie fruits have a choleretic and diuretic effect, have anti-inflammatory and antifungal properties. They are used as an antipyretic, as well as the prevention of colds and viral diseases.

Blue berries improve liver function, stabilize blood pressure and help with diseases of the heart and blood vessels. Berries are recommended for use in diabetes, metabolic disorders and to strengthen the immune system. In addition, honeysuckle is just a delicious treat that both children and adults like. You can make fruit salads with berries, add them to pastries, cakes and, of course, eat them fresh.

Reasons for the low yield of berries

There are several main reasons for the poor yield of bushes planted on the site.

Lack of sunlight

Honeysuckle is a photophilous plant, its berries grow only on the open, illuminated ends of the branches. In the shade, not only berries, but even leaves do not want to grow. In order to provide the shrub with good lighting, you will either have to transplant it to another place, or cut down the shrubs and trees surrounding it.

The color has been beaten by frost

Since honeysuckle blooms very early, the temperature can still fluctuate over a fairly wide range. The branches and leaves of the plant themselves tolerate the cold quite well, but the delicate flower petals can die in one cold night.

To slightly push the flowering of the shrub for more late spring, it is necessary to delay the thawing of the earth. This can be done with the help of sawdust, which is poured onto the ground under honeysuckle in the fall. Sawdust delays snow melting and ice melting.

Lack of insects

If a shrub is not fruiting well, it may not have been pollinated. Sometimes warm weather sets in at the end of March. Then the shrub blooms, but there are still practically no insects, and there is no one to pollinate the plant. It is also necessary to deal with this by delaying flowering. In addition, a berry planted in an open space will also not be pollinated by insects. This is due to the fact that the wind will blow them away, so pollination will not be produced. If it is impossible to transplant a bush to a less ventilated place, then it is necessary to make some kind of barrier in place.

Diseases and nutritional deficiencies

Honeysuckle cultivars do not bear fruit well without additional feeding. Plus, honeysuckle is susceptible to various diseases, but pests practically do not spoil the plant.

For good protection against diseases and an increase in the quantity and quality of the crop, the plant is fertilized with humus in the spring, phosphorus in the summer, and sprinkled with ash in the fall.

Variety selection error

First, there are exclusively decorative varieties honeysuckle. They bloom beautifully and give a good shade, but it will be impossible to find a single berry on them. Secondly, this plant is cross-pollinated. In order for cultivars to bear fruit, it is necessary to transfer pollen from wild honeysuckle to them.

Sometimes it happens that none of the above reasons is found, and tasty blue berries are still not visible. This happens because the plant is either too young or already too old. Wild honeysuckle, whose berries are small and have a bitter taste, can live up to almost 100 years. The plant does not begin to bear fruit immediately, but only in the fifth or even seventh year of its growth.

Cultural honeysuckle does not live so long, you can observe the growth of one bush for no more than 10-15 years. Nevertheless, the berry begins to bear fruit, like the wild one, in the fifth or sixth year. After the first 8-10 years, the shrub begins to age, and its fertility drops sharply. In order to return the yield, the shrub must be cut in a timely manner, giving it a spherical shape.

Where, when and how to plant?

Most good time for planting honeysuckle - this is the beginning of autumn. A shrub planted in spring begins to bloom very early and does not have time to be pollinated by insects. It is best to plant honeysuckle with a two-year-old seedling in prepared soil in the right place. It is good if it is a lighted area, free from other crops. On the side of it there must be some kind of building or fence to stop strong wind. On the ground, liming must be carried out in advance to protect the plant from pests and diseases.

A hole is dug in the selected area with dimensions of 50 x 50 and a depth of about 30-40 cm. The earth mixed with peat and last year's rotted manure is poured into the resulting recess. 50 g of potassium salt is added, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. The mound is formed into a neat mound into which the seedling is dug. The roots of young honeysuckle should be neatly straightened, and the earth tightly packed. One bucket of water is poured onto the planted bush and small sawdust is poured out. If you cut the seedling at a height of 15-20 cm, then the bush will take root much faster.

Proper care of the plant, timely weeding and fertilization will allow honeysuckle to grow quickly and begin to bear fruit in the fifth year. And the annual pruning of high branches will make the bush more “fluffy” and increase the already rich harvest.

For tips on caring for honeysuckle, see the following video.

The honeysuckle shrub on the site will please with its beauty and will find application in medicine, cooking, and cosmetology.

About the plant

Honeysuckle is a climbing shrub with edible berries, having a sweet and sour taste, which always grow in pairs. The first description of the plant is found in the historical treatises of the countries of Southeast Asia in the sixteenth century. The plant is unpretentious, winter-hardy (withstands frosts down to -40 degrees), often used instead of hedges, as it is easy to garden.

Bitterness of berries

Honeysuckle berries in the garden ripen early. For all positive characteristics fruits have a bitter taste. This is due to several reasons.

One of them is the use of low-quality varieties for planting material. Science does not stand still and offers plants that do not depend on the place of growth, weather conditions. Honeysuckle grown from game seeds is always bitter.

The second reason is the cultivation of shrubs with improper care. Since it loves moisture, in the rainy season, the berries acquire a sweet or sweet and sour taste. When the humidity is normal during ripening, the fruits will have a slight bitterness that is not harmful to the body. The dry season is bad for taste qualities honeysuckle: intense heat makes them bitter.

Such bred varieties as "Bogdana", "Gerda", "Altair", "Bakcharskaya", "Lazurit", "Amazonka", "Early", "Chosen One", "Gzhelskaya" and others do not depend on natural factors and give sweetest harvest.

Care

It is advisable to start acquaintance with honeysuckle with a set of information about the desired variety. It is recommended to purchase biennial bushes, with two or three branches, up to 40 centimeters high, with flexible branches, without damage. One of the features of the plant is peeling of the bark (this is normal). Particular attention should be paid to the root system: it must be developed. Since the plant is cross-pollinated, it is recommended to plant several shrubs nearby, picking up varietal pairs. Honeysuckle propagates by green layering or seeds.

When planting, it is preferable to choose a site with partial shade, fertile soil protected from the wind. Worst of all, the plant will feel on sandy soil and in wet places. Honeysuckle rarely gets sick.

For prevention after harvesting, you can spray with a special preparation. Unpretentious shrub requires spring feeding, attention during the ovary.

In two seasons you will get the first harvest of vitamin berries. All these recommendations will make it possible to enjoy the fruits and reduce the amount of bitterness in them.

Beneficial features

The fruits of honeysuckle are dark blue in color, with a wax coating, have large quantity useful substances: microelements, macroelements, pectin, astringents, giving bitterness. The honeysuckle complex of vitamins has a good effect on maintaining the functions of the heart and blood vessels, strengthening the immune system, and has an exciting effect on the body.

The bark, leaves, young shoots, flowers also have healing properties, working as an anti-inflammatory, choleretic, diuretic, disinfectant. A decoction of branches and leaves is used for rinsing, washing eyes, removing swelling, flowers - will ease the period of colds and throat diseases, juice - normalizes the nose, and essential oil - will serve as a component for inhalation.

Honeysuckle in non-traditional treatment is indispensable for metabolic disorders, headaches, malfunctions in the functioning of the liver and digestion.

Daily consumption of honeysuckle berries in various options will be a good preventative maintenance of the body. In cooking, jams, preserves, sauces, compotes, juices are prepared from honeysuckle. The original taste allows the use of fruits in a raw, dried, frozen state. In cosmetology, honeysuckle essential oil is popular; it is used for massage, creams, tonics. These products are used to soothe inflammation and redness of the skin.

One of the most beautiful shrubs, bringing us not only delicious, but also healthy berries, is honeysuckle. It bears fruit in early June, and therefore its berries are the earliest.

What prevents the formation of fruits?

Many gardeners want to get this wonderful plant for themselves, but they face a problem - honeysuckle does not want to bear fruit. What is it connected with?

1. Weak root system. In order for a honeysuckle seedling to begin to bear fruit, it needs to build up a powerful root system, while the aerial part practically does not grow. It is not worth waiting for the first harvest earlier than three years after planting.
2. Bad landing. It should be borne in mind that honeysuckle does not like to grow in the shade and alone. She needs cross-pollination, so it is best to plant the plants in a group of 2-3 bushes of different varieties. The landing site should be protected from the wind so that it does not shake off the ovaries from the bush.
3. Insufficient watering. Honeysuckle loves moisture, so in hot and dry weather, it needs additional watering, especially before fruiting.
4. Unsuitable soil composition. The condition of the soil has a direct impact on the yield brought by the bush. If the soil is acidic, then the honeysuckle begins to turn yellow, and the berries fall off before ripening. This can be corrected by deoxidizing the soil with ash. It is enough to add 2 cups of ash under the bush itself and outside the crown perimeter.
5. Abundance of moisture. In addition, honeysuckle does not tolerate stagnant water. Therefore, if the summer turned out to be rainy or the roots of honeysuckle are near groundwater, they begin to die, which cannot but affect the fruitfulness of the plant.

At proper care, already 3 years after planting, honeysuckle will delight you with a rich harvest of healthy sweet and sour berries.

How to save honeysuckle for the winter

Honeysuckle - very useful and delicious berry, one cup of which contains the daily value of B vitamins and iron. Of course, you can recharge with vitamins by feasting on a berry from a bush. And how to make sure that the body receives these vitamins in winter?

Take a kilogram of ripe, intact berries, rinse them if necessary. Now sprinkle them with a double mass of granulated sugar in relation to the mass of the berry, that is, if you took 1 kg of the berry, then you need 2 kg of sugar. Then spread the berry in jars to the shoulders, sprinkle with sugar on top. Close jars with lids and store in a cool place. Surprisingly, in this form, honeysuckle perfectly retains its beneficial qualities until spring.

And you can make mashed potatoes from honeysuckle. You will need:

• kilogram of honeysuckle berries;
• about 20 leaves of lemon balm (preferably fresh);
• 10 lemongrass leaves.

Rinse the berries, mash with a crush until smooth and add pre-chopped leaves of lemon balm and lemongrass. Bring the resulting mass to a boil and pour into half-liter jars. Close jars with lids and store in a cool place.

Blue honeysuckle is considered a relatively young berry crop; it is far from being found in all gardens, and you will not see its tender fruits in a supermarket or market. And even those gardeners who have introduced a new product cannot always boast of a harvest.

Of the numerous species (more than 200) of honeysuckle, only a few have edible fruits; on their basis, the first varieties were created in the last century. In our country, wild honeysuckle can be found in Western and Eastern Siberia, on the Far East, Kamchatka and Altai. Due to the short growing season and high frost resistance (withstands up to -50 °), it can grow even in the Arctic and on the Kola Peninsula. The cultivation of honeysuckle as a promising berry crop began in the late 40s of the last century, the first varieties appeared in the 80s, and by now 115 varieties have been registered in the State Register of Breeding Achievements.

New varieties

In the last two years, several new varieties of honeysuckle have been registered: early - In memory of Kuminov, Strezhevchanka; mid-season - Cornflower, Blue dessert, Zarechnaya, Samara, Owl, Stepanovskaya 1, Yugana.

Honeysuckle is different unique qualities: high frost resistance, short period vegetation, precocity (begins to bear fruit in the first year of life) and precocity (this is the first berry in middle lane, ripening earlier than strawberries - in the first decade of June).

However, honeysuckle does not go beyond redistribution garden plots lovers, 1 kg of berries are rarely collected from a bush, and often even less. What is the reason for the low yield, what can be done so that the plant realizes its potential and rewards us with a full harvest?

The main reasons for the low yield of honeysuckle:

Lack of pollinators. The culture is self-fertile, so planting one bush or two or three bushes of the same variety is ineffective. It is imperative to plant different varieties;

Low activity of pollinating insects or their absence, which is often associated with adverse weather;

Incorrect posture and bad care behind the plant, improper pruning of bushes;

Poor quality planting material, the lack of modern productive varieties on sale.

If we cannot influence the weather, then everything else is in our hands. You should look for new varieties in proven nurseries and buy as at least two different varieties. They differ high quality berries (size, excellent taste), the crop hangs on the bushes longer and does not fall off ( ripe berries old varieties tend to fall off). It's good to have varieties different term ripening to prolong the harvest period.

Bushes should be planted in prepared pits, observing the optimal distance between plants (2.5-3x1.5-2 m - depending on the strength of the variety). The plant is durable, so the place should be chosen carefully, honeysuckle tolerates partial shade, but in a well-lit area, the yield will be higher.

The most important point that gardeners often miss is the pruning of honeysuckle.. Sometimes they do it wrong and carry out superficial, shortening pruning, which causes excessive branching, the growth of many weak shoots that do not bear fruit. Pruning should be thinning, aimed at removing thickening, unpromising shoots. An adult fruit-bearing bush should have no more than 6-8 skeletal branches, on which mixed shoots of the first branching order grow, bearing flowers and berries. Thinning pruning is recommended to be carried out regularly, from the first year of the plant's life.