How to remove resin from the board. How to remove resin from clothes - effective ways for different types of fabric

25.04.2017 1 18 195 views

Spring is a time of walks and good mood. It is during this period that the question often arises: how to remove resin from clothes at home? After all, while walking through the forest, you can inadvertently lean on a tree, after which sticky marks will remain on your clothes.

What is the most effective way to get tar out of clothes?

If you find traces of resin on the clothes, do not rush to remove it, everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the fabric. To clean clothes without problems, first try to remove the protruding part with some kind of sharp object. After that, it will be much easier to remove traces. The soiled item can be immersed in the refrigerator; after freezing, it will be much easier to wash the resin. It will not work to remove the stain in the washing machine, first you need to carry out a series of procedures.

Alcohol

To remove traces of resin from pine, do the following:

1. Apply rubbing alcohol to the stained area with a cotton pad and leave for 30 minutes.
2. After the time has passed, wash the product in the washing machine. There will be no traces of resin on the product.

To remove pine resin, it is not necessary to use highly concentrated alcohol, facial or shaving lotion is perfect.

Turpentine

Works well with resin from the turpentine tree.

• soak a cotton pad in liquid and apply to the site of contamination for several minutes;
• after removing the stain, wash the product in the washing machine with the addition of washing powder.

Turpentine has a very persistent and unpleasant odor, so cleaning with it should be done in a well-ventilated area.

Refined gasoline

Refined gasoline is similar in action. He is able to remove the resin from coniferous trees.

1. A cotton pad, abundantly moistened with gasoline, is applied to the place of contamination and left for 30 minutes.
2. After the time has elapsed, the resin residues are removed with a brush of medium hardness.
3. After removal, the clothes must be washed in the washing machine.

Acetone

Acetone removes traces of resin well, but any other solvent can be used, they will act in a similar way.

• using a cotton pad, the product is applied to the place of contamination and with gentle movements, from the edge to the center, is removed from the fabric;
• to leave on the product bad smell, be sure to wash it with the addition of fragrant washing powder and conditioner.

Dishwashing liquids

Found traces of tree resin on clothing or even hair. Apply dishwashing detergent to the place of contamination, dilute not large quantity water, beat and remove with a sponge. As a rule, such uncomplicated manipulations are quite enough to remove the resin.

Drinks with gas

To remove traces of coniferous resin from clothes, you can use a very strange way, namely, use any lemonade with gas, for example, your favorite coca-cola.

1. Pour the liquid into a small container and immerse the soiled clothing in it.
2. Wait 15-20 minutes and rub the contaminated area.
3. Wash the clothes in the washing machine with additional detergent and fabric softener.

Bleaches and stain removers

If the stain from the Christmas tree resin appeared recently, then to remove it, it is enough to wash the product with a stain remover or bleach. The main thing is that the product is suitable for a specific type of fabric and color.

Olive and sunflower oil

If the resin got on clothes made of leather, then vegetable oil will come to the rescue.

• moisten a cotton pad in oil and wipe the place of contamination;
• degrease the soiled area with alcohol;
• after removing all impurities, treat the skin with a baby cream.

How to clean resin from delicate fabrics?

If you need to clean the product from delicate fabrics, then you need to prepare a more complex composition to remove the resin. For him you will need:

1. A teaspoon of ammonia.
2. A teaspoon of turpentine
3. Tablespoon of potato starch.

The method of preparing the mixture.

THE CONSTRUCTION EXPERT TELLS ABOUT WHAT A SURPRISE THE WOODEN FRAMES CAN PRESENT TO THE DEVELOPER AND HOW TO GET OUT OF A DIFFICULT SITUATION.

We love wooden houses. Almost all suburban buildings are filled with wood products. We like the tree beautiful view, freshness and nice smell, reasonable price and many other valuable qualities.

However, he also has weak sides: susceptibility to decay and damage by wood fungi, excessive release of resin by coniferous wood, especially pine and spruce. Subject to all technological rules fungal attack can be avoided, but the resin in the wood can manifest itself in the most unexpected way. We encountered this phenomenon rather unexpectedly.

TROUBLE HAS COME FROM WHERE YOU DID NOT EXPECT!

For country house large wooden windows and double-glazed doors were ordered. Previously, we studied the manufacturer's samples, and even ready-made installed window blocks in a residential building that has been in operation for several years.

There were no quality issues. Under a layer of clear varnish, the pine window blocks looked flawless. It was considered unnecessary to overpay for oak structures.

Chosen for home Brown color window frames and doors. Looking ahead, let's say that this was our first mistake.

Beautiful window blocks were installed in September. Until the following summer, the windows did not cause any problems. But with the onset of hot summer south side at home, paint swelling was found on the surface of the frames, which immediately caused concern.

After a few days, resin began to show through the paintwork. And there were at least two dozen such sections on window blocks. Initially beautiful windows immediately lost sight. What to do?

We urgently called a contractor who manufactured and installed our window blocks. A company representative immediately stated that this was the first case of such a defect.

After removing the paintwork, resin pockets and areas of wood richly impregnated with resin were found in areas with resin. In the sun, a dark brown surface warms up more than a light one, and this contributed to the release of resin from the wood.

REPAIR OF RESIN POCKETS

In autumn, after most of the resin had flowed out of the wood during the summer months, we began to repair work. After removing the paint from the defective areas of the window frames, we identified up to two dozen tar pockets and three areas with tars. It was necessary to somehow remove the resin from the wood, otherwise it would constantly stand out and destroy the paint coatings.

The problem was solved mechanically: a piece of wood, together with a resin pocket, was cut to a depth of 5 mm. Then the recess was sealed with the so-called boat - an insert made of dry non-resined wood, mounted on glue. We did all this by hand with single resin pockets.

After sealing the resin pockets, we began to eliminate the pitches. These are volumetric defects, and the tarred areas must be repaired with a continuous layer of clean wood. To do this, the front sections of the frames with pitching had to be cut to a depth of 3-5 mm using wide chisels and sandpaper.

On these stripped areas, inserts from healthy wood were tightly fitted and glued. After the glue has dried window frames sanded and thoroughly treated with acetone to remove residual resin, and then the repaired areas of the frames were thoroughly washed hot water with soap.

Now it was possible to start restoring the paint layer. The repaired areas were puttied with a finely dispersed putty. Then carefully sanded, primed and painted in two layers.

FINISH IN TWO OR THREE LAYERS

I had to paint by hand, with a small roller and brushes. It was not possible to achieve high-quality painting the first time. I had to sand and repaint. Some areas were well painted over the second time, and some - the third. But perseverance brought the desired result. Repaired sections became almost indistinguishable. True, there were doubts: how will the renovated places behave next season? Will the resin come to the surface again? But no, a summer inspection showed that the resin had not leaked through the barrier of healthy wood anywhere. The windows have been saved.

IF YOU MAKE FURNITURE

For example, with resin in wooden windows I wanted to show how important it is to be careful about the choice of wood for furniture and wooden products. It is necessary to carefully select the material, sorting out all the blanks with resin pockets, and even more so with pitching.

Clapboard and floorboards should also be sorted before use. Sealing resin pockets and especially pitching is a very time-consuming job, so it is better to use boards with such flaws for rough work.

IF YOU BUILD A LOG

In houses with log cabins made of timber or logs, there are also resin pockets and even pitching. The problem is that GOST 8486-86 “Softwood lumber. Specifications" allows the presence of resin pockets even in sawn timber of the highest (selective grade) on any one-meter section in the amount of 1 pc. not more than 50 mm long. In lumber of the 1st and 2nd grades, 2 and 4 pockets are allowed on any one-meter section along the entire length of the workpiece. Therefore, in a contract for the construction of a house from a bar or rounded logs, special attention should be paid to resin defects.

Of course, there is practically no spruce and pine wood without resin pockets, but let them be like in a selected type of wood - few and small in size.

As a consolation to homeowners who already have log houses with tar pockets or tars, I want to say that wood with resin is more durable, and the smell of resin containing many essential oils not only pleasant, but also useful.

• RESIN POCKETS IN WOOD ARE CAVITIES OR INSIDE THE ANNUAL GLASSES. OR BETWEEN THEM. FILLED WITH RESIN DURING THE LIFE OF THE WOOD.
• PITTING CALLED LOADLY IMPREGNATED WITH RESIN LOCATIONS OF WOOD. FORMED DUE TO INJURY OF CONIFEROUS TRUNK. CONTAINING RESIN COURSES AND RESIN CELLS. RESIN ACCUMULATES ENOUGHLY ON SUCH PARTS OF WOOD AND REMAINS THERE FOREVER.

REMOVING RESIN POCKETS IN WOOD - VIDEO

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You will need:

• Milling machine
• Putty knife
• Wooden patches
• grinder

Resin influxes in the bath have a negative impact on human health, since at high temperatures and high humidity the resin begins to evaporate and can enter the body. In addition, they can gradually destroy the frame of the bath. As a rule, resin appears in a bath made from softwood, which was not sufficiently dried before construction began. Therefore, you need to worry about the appearance of resin in the future at the stage of procurement of building materials.

The most effective treatment for resin on wood is milling and installing wood patches. Perhaps this method of how to remove tar in a bath is both the simplest and most reliable. First you need with the help of a special milling machine drill holes in places where resin stains appear. If there is no router at hand, you can draw a circle, drill large holes with a drill and select with a chisel.

Wooden patches are recommended to be done after all resin stains have been removed from the surface to be cleaned. In order not to spoil the look of the bath, it is recommended to make patches from the same wood. It is not recommended to insert patches just like that, they can fall out over time and moisture can get into the cracks, which can cause decay. Therefore, they need to be planted on a special glue, non-toxic and able to withstand high temperatures. You can use sealants.

Perhaps the tar in the bath is the most unpleasant problem that is difficult to deal with. The above steps may help to temporarily protect treated areas from staining, but stains may continue to appear. In case of urgent need, a chisel and a soldering iron will help to eliminate the resin in the bath. First, you need to burn the place around the resin stain with a soldering iron, melt the build-up, if one has already formed, and scrape off the rest with a chisel. Then the hole must be filled with shellac and processed to the end. It is recommended to sand patches that have been patched so that they become less visible to the naked eye.

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Do-it-yourself bath repair - how to remove mold, get rid of tar and other problems, resolution with photos, tips and videos

The wooden surfaces and the structure of the sauna are exposed to intense humidity and temperature. As a result, surface cleaning, timely repair and maintenance of the structure are required.

Instructions: problems and solutions

Under the influence of moisture, temperature changes and other factors wooden surfaces inside the bath they lose their original appearance. Lack of proper care leads to the multiplication of microorganisms and mold, and bathing in such a bath is unpleasant. Therefore, all structural elements require care and cleaning, for which special tools are used. The compositions allow you to eliminate blackening, mold, prevent cracking wooden furniture.

Care and cleaning keep the bath aesthetic

Elimination of mold and fungus in the sauna

A common problem is the appearance of mold and fungus on the walls and wooden surfaces of the bath. The reasons for their occurrence are high humidity indoors, lack of ventilation and condensation, frequent use, improper ventilation or poor insulation. As a result of this, mold and fungus manifestations appear, which look like a white-grayish coating on surfaces and in corners. This leads to poor health and health problems.

Mold often appears in the absence of ventilation

The spread of mold and fungus leads to rotting of the structure. To solve and prevent problems, you need to find the cause. First, regular ventilation of the room in which the mold has arisen is ensured. Dry surfaces in summer time year and dry hot weather. It is necessary to check the operability of ventilation, clean it from blockages.

To eliminate mold and fungus, you need to carry out the following measures:

• clean surfaces from dirt and dust. For processing, you can use folk remedies e.g. alcohol. The liquid accelerates the evaporation of water and penetrates deep into the wood, killing microorganisms. It is worth considering that alcohol is highly flammable;
• for processing, you can use a solution of 1 liter of water, 22 g iron sulphate, 18 g of table salt and add 44 g of potassium alum;
• using a sponge and rags dipped in liquid, wipe all surfaces that have undergone mold formation, as well as the area around them;
• processing can be done twice. First, the mold is removed with a liquid, and then all surfaces are wiped with a new solution and the walls are washed with clean water.

Mold can be removed with professional tools. When choosing, you should pay attention to the effect of the composition, as well as to the composition. The tool should be intended specifically for the elimination of fungus and mold, and not for prevention. After processing, drying and eliminating the causes of the fungus, the surfaces should be washed regularly. prophylactic.

Soot and soot removal

Black marks from soot often appear on wooden surfaces in a bath after heating the stove. This phenomenon can be prevented only by regular cleaning of the chimney, proper operation ovens. In the absence of care, soot penetrates deep into the structure of the tree and spoils the appearance of the room.

From the soot, the boards of the walls and ceiling turn black

Careful organization of the chimney and the area around the stove minimizes the appearance of dirt. After each heating, you need to remove fresh soot, which will keep the comfort in the bath.

To preserve the appearance of surfaces, you can apply the following methods:

• the mechanical cleaning method involves the use of a scraper or other sharp tool, with which black deposits are removed from wooden surfaces. The grinder is more convenient, but both technologies are time consuming and affect the appearance of the walls. The mechanical cleaning method removes upper layer wood;
• folk ways are different. Often, after each heating, sand or other abrasive substances are used that easily remove fresh soot. Surface treatment with soapy water is also effective only for fresh dirt;
• a chemical wash is the most effective solution. The composition of products that can be purchased at the store includes alkaline components. To use, apply the product with a sponge, soak according to the instructions, and then rinse thoroughly. When choosing, it is worth considering the possibility of using chemistry on various surfaces.

Chemical compounds are effective for removing soot from brick, wood, metal. When processing, be sure to follow the instructions and use rubber gloves.

How to get rid of resin?

The appearance of resin on wooden surfaces is characteristic of pine paneling, flooring or furniture. It is undesirable to use such material in a bath, since at high temperatures resin is released from the wood structure. Streaks spoil the appearance of surfaces and have a pungent odor.

Pine wood should not be used in the bath

To avoid resin drips, do not use pine wood in the bath. Finishing is best created from aspen or linden, cedar, because these materials are safe, aesthetic and practical to use. If pine elements were used, on which streaks appeared, then the problem can be solved mechanical method. In this case, the resin must be regularly scraped off the surfaces. The appearance of the substance will end after a while, but the substance must be scraped off carefully.

The radical method, which consists in completely changing the pine sheathing to elements from another wood, allows you to solve the problem completely. To eliminate the lining, financial and time costs are necessary, but the regular appearance of resin can be avoided.

Internal cleaning of a wooden steam room

Elimination of dirt helps prevent the development of mold, dampness and other unpleasant phenomena. For this purpose, it is necessary to regularly do general cleaning inside the bath. First, remove all furniture, rugs and other items from the room. Wash them in soapy water, rinse and dry in the sun. While the furniture dries, you should clean the inside. This process includes the following points:

• mold, soot and soot, resin is eliminated by suitable means and methods;
• it is necessary to remove the zone from the furnace, clean the chimney and the space around the furnace;
• all wooden surfaces are treated with antiseptics intended for a bath;
• use a brush to clean surfaces medium hardness;
• special bleaches for wood help to lighten wood;
• persistent dirt on the shelves is removed with a grinder or sandpaper.

During cleaning, only products intended for wood and a simple soap solution are used. Brushes, sponges and cloths do a good job with fresh dirt. Absorbed or old stains are removed by grinding or scraping. General cleaning it is worth doing once a month, and after each heating, you need to wash the bath.

Lining processing

Soot, mold and fungus are removed from the lining by both mechanical and chemical methods. The first category of means involves the use grinder or scraper. This affects the appearance of the surfaces and walls of the lining.

Clean walls provide comfort in the bath

Chemicals for bleaching, removing dirt from wooden lining require right choice. The compositions used should be designed for baths and saunas, which will ensure effective cleaning and safe application chemistry. Cleaned walls or a new lining in the bath can be coated with acrylic paints that are suitable for the bath. Antiseptics are pre-applied to prevent rotting. These measures greatly facilitate further operation and prevent pollution of the lining.

Other pollution

Due to the high humidity in the bath, there may be various pollution. Since the room is used for washing, shampoos, soaps and other products are used that are quickly absorbed into the wood. In the absence of regular cleaning, an unpleasant soapy layer appears on the surface of walls, furniture and floors. You can fix this problem with a hard brush. By thorough friction, the floor, walls and furniture are treated. Then everything is rinsed warm water and dry.

Each item in the bath requires the removal of a soap layer and dirt.

In the bath, metal screws and other elements are inappropriate, because they will quickly rust from moisture. As a result, rusty marks remain on the lining or other surfaces. Eliminate them easily with oxalic acid or household chemicals containing this substance. The product is applied to stains, rubbed with a sponge, and then the surface is washed well.

Bath insulation

For comfortable operation of the steam room, good insulation of the building is necessary. This allows you to quickly heat the room, take a steam bath with convenience and keep the structure in winter period. With absence good insulation or the worn state of the building, various problems arise that prevent you from bathing in comfort. In this case, the causes should be eliminated and the bath repaired.

All surfaces of the bath building need to be insulated

Warming is carried out for the walls, ceiling, roof of the bath. For this, only high-quality materials are used, which must necessarily be resistant to high humidity. Safety for human health and environmental friendliness of materials are taken into account when choosing.

Arrangement of the floor in the bath

Discomfort and heat loss in the steam room or dressing room often occur due to insufficient floor insulation. Lack of thermal insulation or air cushion, poor waterproofing, improperly selected materials can cause cold air to enter the bath. Therefore, when constructing a building, it is necessary to study the technology of insulation.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden floor

When this problem occurs, the following steps are required:

• determination of the reason for the entry of cold through the floor, for example, the lack of waterproofing. Further actions are taken depending on the cause;
• the cracks and gaps that have arisen between the walls and the floor are sealed with mounting foam;
• with a low quality of the old insulation, the floor structure is disassembled, new layers of hydro and thermal insulation are equipped inside, taking into account the drain;
• cracks in the concrete floor should be sealed with cement mortar, and the drain siphon should also be checked, which may have gaps.

The exact floor repair technology depends on the type of surface, the cause of the problem. A high-quality floor has no cracks, has a flat surface with a slight slope towards the drain.

Insulation of entrance doors

Heat losses through the zone of entrance doors in the bath are common cause rapid cooling of the room. AT winter time years, the doors freeze through and become covered with a layer of frost. This effect occurs if there is only one door to the bath, as well as when the air temperature inside the room is too high or when there is a sharp temperature drop. The poor quality of the door construction often leads to freezing and a decrease in the performance of the room.

Second Entrance door in the bath should be made of wood

If two entrance doors are installed in the bath, then the outer one can be insulated metal, and the inner one - wooden. This will prevent freezing and lowering the temperature in the room. At the same time, it is necessary to insulate even the highest quality metal door. For this, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and other means are used.

double door in the bath is practical

To fix the problem of freezing, it is necessary to carry out the following actions:

• eliminate the gaps between the door frame and the wall or floor;
• mount the sealing tape on the door frame;
• seal cracks in the wall, ceiling or floor on the side where the door is located and around it;
• second wooden door should not have cracks;
• along the perimeter of the door frame, sealing rollers are installed to prevent heat loss.

Door insulation is important point when setting up a bath. This avoids many problems and destruction of the structure.

Freezing or damaged drain

Cold air can enter through cracks in a damaged drain siphon. Replacing the old device with a new one is the solution to this problem. The situation is more complicated when water froze in the drain. This happens as a result of the solidification of the remaining water in the pipes. Therefore, you must always carefully drain all water from the boiler, taps and other communications. To fix the problem, you need to melt the bath, pour a few liters of boiling water into the drain and check the system. This method helps to eliminate a small ice plug quickly.

The defrosting method depends on the design of the drain

When designing communications for a bath, it is important to make all pipelines as short as possible. Otherwise, to defrost the outer metal pipes, it is worth using gas burner, with the help of which the ice plug is slightly heated. If the drain pipes are located deep underground, then you need to fill in salted boiling water and periodically check the system.

Bath roof insulation

Significant heat loss in the bath occurs through the roof. Cold air enters the steam room with insufficiently correct or inefficient attic insulation. In this case, you need to inspect the ceiling inside the bath and the structure in the attic. All found cracks are closed mounting foam. Too much thin layer insulation should be supplemented, as well as ensure the presence of hydro and vapor barrier layers.

When insulating the roof, high-quality materials are used

The presence of an attic provides additional insulation of the bath, as there is an air gap. In any case, the roof requires timely repair, elimination of cracks and insulation.

Replacing the lower rims

The lower rims of the bath structure are subject to strong moisture and climatic factors. As a result, they quickly rot and the building collapses. Therefore, during construction, the lower crowns are made of larch, which only becomes harder from moisture. In a different situation, replacement of elements is required. If the crowns are not removed and repaired in a timely manner, the bath will warp, cracks will form in the walls and the structure will fall apart.

The lower crowns of the bath can be made of larch or oak

Replacing the lower rims can be partial or complete. The first option is optimal if only some elements are damaged, for example, in the drain or slope area. Complete replacement is necessary in case of severe destruction of the structure. The procedure requires careful organization, and the complex of works is as follows:

1. From the bath you need to take out all the objects and furniture, remove the glass from the window frames and doors. If the floor logs are cut into the lower crown, then the coating is dismantled. The chimney is separated from the ceiling, which will prevent damage to the roof;
2. Crowns that do not require replacement are fixed. To do this, about 50 cm recede from the corners of the building and 40 mm bars are nailed vertically. The lower ends of the bars are fixed on the crowns of the second level, and the upper ends are nailed to the very last elements;
3. Logging of a log house - two logs fastened with a corner joint. We determine which logs will be the top ones in the replaced crown. Jacks will be fixed under them. From the corner in the foundation, you need to retreat 1 m and knock out an opening 40 cm wide. Opposite this opening, cut out part of the log of the lower crown. As a result, the total height of the niche is sufficient for the installation of a jack. On two opposite walls, 2 niches are also cut out at the same distance from the corners. Jacks are fixed, and their number is 2–4 pcs. So you can raise either the entire building, or one by one each wall. If you install 4 jacks, then the distortion will be less. With jacks resting against the upper dressing logs, it is necessary to raise the frame by 7–10 cm;
4. The lower logs are removed and temporary support bars are fixed. The jacks are lowered, the upper logs of the replaced crown are also lowered and removed. Install new elements and tighten with jacks. Temporary supports remove and change the following lower elements. All jacks are synchronously lowered, the gaps between new and old logs are closed.

Replacing the lower rims of the bath requires physical effort. Therefore, the repair of the structure cannot be carried out alone with your own hands.

Bath renovation requires good preparation

The technology for replacing the elements of a log cabin is simple, but it is important to prepare in advance quality material, tools, fixtures.

Alignment: do-it-yourself repair

Wooden structures differ in that they require correct installation taking into account the characteristics of wood. During the construction of baths are not always respected simple rules, which leads to deformation of the surfaces and the structure as a whole.

Bloating lining

Incorrect installation, high initial moisture content of wood, accumulation of moisture behind the sheathing, incorrect operation of the bath lead to swelling of the lining from which it is made inner lining. Insufficient ventilation leads to the same result.

To avoid deformation, it is important to follow the rules

To eliminate irregularities, the following work is carried out:

1. Removal of uneven elements and ordinary parts located next to them;
2. Need to make sure proper organization wall insulation. Otherwise, it is required complete arrangement hydro and vapor barriers;
3. Installation of lining is carried out carefully, by connecting a spike into a groove.

The lining of the lining should not be tight, as the wood expands under the influence of moisture. It is also worth providing a ventilation gap between the skin and the wall insulation.

Correction of the log house

Long-term operation, improper installation of the log house on the ground, high humidity, and ground movement lead to a distortion of the structure. Often the building is sloping on only one side, which makes it possible to correct the situation.

Curvature of the log house is possible for various reasons.

The technology of leveling the log cabin of the bath is similar to the method of replacing the lower rims. At the same time, observe such rules as:

• installation of at least 2 jacks;
• lightening the building, that is, the removal of furniture and other items from the inside;
• jacks are raised gradually;
• at one time the lifting height should not exceed 5 cm;
• under the crooked crowns you need to put a new support, boards.

The method of leveling the log house depends on the type of foundation on which the bath is installed. In any case, the design is leveled or pulled together with metal corners.

Video: replacing the floor boards in the bath

Do-it-yourself bath repair allows you to make the design unique and reliable. Compliance with the rules and elimination of the causes of the problems that have arisen are mandatory steps.

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We repair a bath with our own hands - how to remove mold, get rid of tar and other problems, resolution with photos, tips and videos

Bath, like any building on suburban area, needs constant care, without which it will quickly collapse. The lower crowns and the floor can rot, in winter the drain and water pipes freeze, fungus and woodworm appear. Therefore, from time to time you will have to do the repair of the bath with your own hands.

What problems can arise during the operation of a wooden sauna

All problems are directly related to the materials used to build it.

How to get rid of the resin that is released from the tree

Wood for a bath should be easy to process and maintain, moisture resistant, not prone to cracking, and not releasing resin. But for walls, doors and furniture (in rare cases) in a Russian steam room, where the temperature is lower than in a sauna, conifers are also suitable. A log house made of pine and spruce rounded logs will emit resin under constant exposure to temperature.

The only way to get rid of it is to methodically clean it off with a spatula with each bath firebox. Then, after a few months, there will be less resin, and after a year of operation, it will cease to stand out altogether.

Resin release from pine ceiling board is a natural phenomenon

How to wash ordinary dirt

After some time, bath furniture, headrests, wall and ceiling lining will darken, become porous, stubborn dirt will appear - waste products separated by a person (dead cells, sweat, fat), traces of bath perfumes and essential oils. The same applies to the outer walls of the bath, only there the cause is atmospheric phenomena: rain, snow, wind, carrying dirt and dust with them.

Traditional old bath has a dressing room without cosmetic treatment

In the village baths before internal walls regularly scraped with a knife, removing the top, dirty layer. But this is a very laborious task, which does not give a full result. The outer walls of the bathhouse were not cleaned at all before.

The traditional old steam room meant the use of wood without processing

Now bath rooms after each use should be thoroughly washed with special modern detergents.

But not everyone is suitable for this, because some of them cannot be washed off, and they can give unwanted fumes. There is a large assortment detergents for baths.

Table: tools to help clean the bath from dirt

Detergent Supi saunapesu disinfects, bleaches, dissolves lime salts

How to clean walls and ceilings from soot and soot

During many years of operation of the stove, black greasy soot sits on the walls, ceiling and furniture of the steam room. This is fine grained graphite.

Running soot on the wall of the steam room is very difficult to remove

It is very difficult to remove it. Therefore, as a preventive measure, you should regularly pay attention to the operation of your oven.

But if for some reason you cannot influence the deposition of soot on the walls, it must be removed regularly. It is impossible to wash off the plaque immediately. First, dry vacuuming is needed so that soot and soot particles do not penetrate deep into the tree with moisture. Yes, and it is impossible to completely wash off such a plaque with a solution of a conventional cleaning agent, so you need to use special chemical compositions. For example, an aqueous wash of soot and soot MAZBIT + based on alkaline components (it has the name "For cleaning premises from the effects of a fire"). But it must be used with caution, and besides, rinse very carefully.

MAZBIT+ water wash based on alkaline components perfectly copes with soot and soot

How to properly treat the walls and shelves of the steam room from fungus and mold

If you overlooked an infected board or log when buying, then the fungus and mold, while in conditions of constant dampness, can later spread to all parts of the built bath. Mucus appears on the surface, it is extremely difficult to remove it.

There are other reasons for this problem:

• improper insulation of the bath, resulting in condensation (it starts to drip from the ceiling and walls);
• poor quality waterproofing logs and foundation;
• poor ventilation of the steam room and washing;
• regular insufficient drying of the room after operation.

The conditions that are created in a humid and hot steam room are ideal for the development of mold.

The fungus on the log cabin of the bath appears due to constant high humidity

Black fungus is dangerous to human health. It provokes the development of tumors, allergies, can stimulate headaches and rhinitis. Some of its species even cause bronchial asthma, generalized mycosis, pneumonia and myocarditis. You can’t just cover up the affected area, it needs to be treated.

black mold looks amazing under the microscope

If you have problems with thermal insulation, there are drafts, then a tree mold fungus can grow in such a bath.

mold fungus- a frequent occurrence on the tree

If mushrooms and mold of all kinds are not completely removed, they will spread and simply destroy the bath. There are simple solutions to this problem:

Examples of antifungal formulations industrial production- Biotol, Dufa, Metas-Bio, Ceresit, Neomid-Bio, Dali, Prosept 50.

Antifungal composition of industrial production Prosept 50 perfectly copes with its task

When you are sure that you have completely cleared your bath of fungus, dry it. And continue to carefully monitor its condition and appearance.

What to do to prevent blackness and rotting of surfaces inside the sauna

Rotting is a serious disadvantage of wood. This is the destruction of cellulose when exposed to microorganisms that appear and multiply at high humidity. Temperature exacerbates the process. In the bath, the floor that can withstand water flows is most susceptible to rotting. The only way to solve the problem is to remove the damaged areas of wood and replace them.

Wood rot is almost impossible to prevent

Rules for the care of bath rooms

Most of these problems can be avoided.

Why resin is released

Pine and spruce lumber must be of perfect quality, without a single knot, because they are basically the gates for the released resin.

For a bath, boards with cracks, knots and blue are not suitable.

The material must first be steamed and dried, then the release of resin will be reduced to a minimum.

Pine board should be selected with almost no defects

How to prevent fungus and rot

You need to carefully inspect all the lumber that you purchase. A fungus-affected or rotten tree is immediately visible. If you notice instances with black or blue, then it would be advisable to contact another supplier. There is a high probability that the entire batch is affected, even if the fungus is not visible on all boards and logs.

It is better to buy wood felled in winter. Frost will not allow the fungus to spread in the wood. And be sure before use and after assembly, wooden elements must be treated with antifungal impregnation.

The fungus on the cut of the log is immediately visible

The use of impregnations

This tool can save you from many problems associated with the operation of the bath. For a modern busy person who does not want to use impregnation, there are only two ways to avoid the appearance of dirt:

• rarely use the bath or let a small number of people into it (and dry it well every time);
• every two or three years, completely change furniture, lining on the ceiling and walls (but this method is not suitable for everyone).

The first thing to do at the construction stage is to use high-quality impregnation for exterior and internal surfaces. It is able to protect the tree from precipitation, temperature changes, heating and high humidity without harm to humans, and at the same time protect the bath from woodworms, fungus and rot.

Admirers of a healthy lifestyle assure that it is not only not necessary to process the wooden surfaces inside the bath, but it is also harmful. They believe that impregnation and paint coatings, when heated, give off a sharp chemical odor and emit harmful volatiles. This is true if you use by conventional means not intended for use in the bath. But if you leave the tree in its original form, it cracks, and the fungus multiplies in the cracks and micropores.

Those impregnating agents that are suitable for the ceiling cannot always be used to process furniture. And the means for external processing of the log house are very different from them.

Domestic (Senezh, Neomid, Belinka, Aquacolor, Empils, Rogneda) and foreign (Dulux, Tikkurila, Nobel, Belinka, Teknos) manufacturers of varnishes and paints produce a lot of products for interior and exterior impregnation.

External impregnation of timber

Means for external impregnation are divided into industrial and for private use. The first (pyroprotective, strong antiseptic, insecticidal) wood is processed when preparing the forest for construction.

It is imperative that immediately after the construction of the log house, process it again until the tree has been exposed to atmospheric precipitation and is not contaminated.

Internal impregnation

Means for internal impregnation are of two types:

• for surfaces that we do not touch with the body (for example, the ceiling);
• for surfaces with which the human body comes into contact.

The requirements for the latter are much higher, especially for bathroom furniture coatings, which should not form a scalding varnish film. Floor impregnation should not slip, and must withstand regular wet cleaning.

For bath furniture, products with water-repellent natural substances such as paraffin, wax, oil are used, which perfectly protect the surface and are harmless to humans.

Impregnation Eurotex "Sauna" is harmless to humans

Application specifics protective compounds:

1. The first application is made immediately after the manufacture of furniture on a dry and clean surface or before construction.
2. The product must be evenly distributed with a sponge, soft cloth or brush. Due to the thick consistency, the spray gun will not work.
3. After the first coat has dried, areas that will be subjected to maximum stress, such as seats, headrests, walls in the shelf area, must be treated again.
4. Then the bath is heated. When heated, an excess of impregnation is sure to stand out, which is not absorbed due to the saturation of the wood. It is simply wiped off with rags.

Impregnation can be applied to internal objects with a sponge, brush, rag

How to properly insulate a bath so that condensation does not appear

With a properly designed and built bath, good solid doors and windows, there is no need for additional insulation. But often such problems still make themselves felt during operation. Several troubles can happen:

• draft and insufficient temperature in the steam room;
• cold floor;
• freezing of entrance doors;
• freezing drains and pipes.

Draft and insufficient temperature in the steam room

Theoretically, even when erecting a log house, you should have put caulk between the logs, and then carefully caulk the grooves.

Caulking is a mandatory step in the construction of a bath

The device of the bath floor also had to be done in accordance with all the rules, with expanded clay insulation.

But if this was done in violation of technology, the bath squinted from time to time, and cracks formed, then you need to carefully examine the walls and doors from the outside and from the inside, especially carefully checking the corners. Surely you will find somewhere where the heat escapes. Then they can be caulked again outside and inside, pushing a jute tape into the slot and covering it with a similar cord.

Jute caulking set consists of ribbon and cord

If it was not possible to find such places, you will have to agree that thermal insulation properties walls, ceiling, floor and doors are not enough, and you need to completely insulate the bath.

Wall insulation can be external and internal. In the first case, the bath is sheathed:

• vapor barrier material, for example, foam;
• insulation (long-fiber mineral wool is good in this capacity, its sheets are overlapped, or foam insulation mats);
• waterproofing material(roofing material);
• clapboard, siding or blockhouse.

Foam made of polyethylene foam is rot-resistant and environmentally friendly. The vapor barrier protects the insulation from the formation of condensate in it. Waterproofing prevents the outside from getting wet.

Internal insulation is done according to the same principle, only the lining must be made of natural wood like steamed pine or birch.

The internal insulation of the bath is carried out similarly to the external

The ceiling must also be insulated.

Ceiling insulation has its own characteristics

cold floor

The freezing floor must be insulated. We'll have to abandon the idea of ​​a direct drain device. In this case, it is better to do a single drain.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath is extremely rare.

What to do if the front door starts to freeze

If the door freezes over in winter, it means that it is not insulated enough. There are two options for solving the problem:

• replace the door
• warm her up.

The second method is most often used. If you have frame door, it needs to be disassembled, put mineral wool and reassembled. If it is made of tongue-and-groove board, you need to sew a cotton and plywood sandwich on the outside.

Drainage system is one of the important nodes of the bath. It must be done immediately after the construction of the foundation, before the construction of the log house, simultaneously with the insulation of the underground. In the old bathhouses, the drain went straight through the plank floor to the ground, so the building was placed on a natural slope.

Scheme of a bath with a separate bath drain system

Now such a drain is prohibited, but this idea is often used in both the steam room and the washing room. The drain is organized through the entire floor or is collected at one point where a ladder grate is installed.

In no case should the bath drain be connected to a common septic tank, it will simply choke due to volley bath discharges. Need to dig a separate drain hole.

And this is where problems can arise. The main reason for winter freezing of runoff is improper styling drain pipe. If it has a slight slope or lies undulating, problems are bound to arise. The slope must be at least 2 cm per 1 m of pipe, otherwise the water will stagnate. With wave-like laying, liquid remains in the lower bends, which freezes, and a chain reaction sets in. In addition, if the slope is small, then a common blockage may occur, due to which the water stagnates and freezes. Therefore, it is desirable to lay pipes below the freezing point of the soil.

For the bath you need to put a separate septic tank

But even if these conditions are met, the length of the outlet pipe should not exceed 5 m without insulation and 15 m with insulation. Ice is 10% larger than water by volume, which means it can break pipes.

Ice can cause a pipe to burst

If trouble occurs and the pipes are frozen, you must immediately take measures to defrost them. For this:

As soon as the pipe has defrosted and the liquid has begun to move, you must immediately, without turning off the water, dig out and insulate the pipe with isover, mineral wool, foam "shell".

You can insulate the pipe with a foam casing

How to replace the lower crowns with your own hands

The lower crowns are the weakest point of the bath. Of course, you need to do the maximum during construction in order to prevent their decay.

Preventive measures against crown rotting

It is much easier to prevent rotting than to change the lower crowns. Therefore, it is worth remembering about preventive measures:

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the lower rims of a Russian bath

If, nevertheless, trouble happened, and the lower crowns rotted, they can be replaced. Depending on the extent of damage, a partial or complete replacement will be required.

How to restore the lower crown

If the lower rims are not completely damaged, then you can remove and change only some of them, following the plan:

How to completely change large logs

If the log is rotten in several places, it is recommended to complete replacement. This requires careful preparatory work, since the entire frame will be displaced during this process:

1. It is necessary to remove the window frames and doors, remove the pigtails. Take out the furniture. Disassemble the floor, but only if the logs are embedded in those logs that need to be removed.
2. Disassemble the chimney structure so that there is space between it and the roof. Otherwise, destruction of the furnace structure cannot be avoided, and the roof may also be damaged.
3. Fix the logs of the log house with four ties on all sides on each wall.

It is necessary to determine which two of the four logs of the rotten crown are the top ones. Under them and you need to put jacks. Replacement sequence:

What to do if the log house began to mow: step-by-step repair instructions

If your bath from a clean, unlined log house visually began to look crooked, or if, with seemingly straight walls, their lining inside or outside led (and it may swell), this means that the soil has subsided at one of the corners of the foundation or the log house itself is deformed . Jacks must be used for leveling.

Jacks under the lower crown of the log house must be securely fastened

The process consists of several steps:

1. The sheathing is completely removed, the thermal insulation can be left alone, or you can only caulk the log house again.
2. Doors, windows, kosyachki are taken out, all furniture is pulled out.
3. The roof around the chimney and the floor near the stove are being dismantled.
4. Jacks are brought up, first under the sagging part. Raising each of them a little, the bath is leveled by a plumb line or hydro level. You can then make a strapping with a metal channel to create additional rigidity.
5. Then the bath is sheathed again, all disassembled nodes are restored.

Video: bath crown replacement

You have learned a lot of what you will need for a long and trouble-free operation. wooden bath on the homestead.

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How to get rid of resin on boards?

Interior made from natural wood looks very solid, presentable, soft and pleasant. Coniferous material is especially valuable, which also contributes to the natural healing of all residents of the house during operation. But there is one problem that arises when laying softwood - how to get rid of resin on the boards, which must be solved correctly. That is what this article will be about.

1. Boards where the resin leaks out become extremely sticky and will quickly bond to whatever tools and materials they come into contact with.
2. Usually, the areas where the “resin” flows out look a little darker than the whole board, so the uniformity of the coating cannot be achieved.
3. Staining to perform with the resulting substance is impossible, and unprofitable. Paint or varnish will not harden on resin stains, respectively - there will remain convex, unprotected from the harmful effects of moisture, areas of the coating that stand out with their color.

What do you need to know about resin?

Resin removal is best done only after the board has been sanded. Although compliance with this rule will not be a guarantee that the "resin" will not prove itself again. Sometimes such a substance begins to ooze under the influence of certain factors after completion finishing works. This factor must be taken into account before giving preference to coniferous decoration of the house.

Mechanical removal

In this case, in order to remove the resin from the boards, it is necessary to wait for the complete solidification of the fluid mass. Then, armed with a knife, remove each piece by hand.

Important! After removing all unwanted sagging, it is necessary to sand the surface of the wood with sandpaper or a special tool.

Solvents

To dissolve the "resin" you can use improvised chemistry. The following tools are suitable for this purpose:

• alcohol;
• White Spirit;
• turpentine;
• refined gasoline;
• acetone;
• nitro solvent.

Important! The use of any of these solvents does not affect the structure and shade of softwood. But when using it, it is advisable to protect yourself with gloves, a respirator so that caustic volatile vapors do not provoke irritation of the skin and mucous membranes.

The following methods effectively help to solve the problem:

• Ammonium chloride or ammonia solution. Such a tool is diluted with acetone in a ratio of 2: 1. Apply to the surface with rubbing movements until foam is formed. Remains of foam and resin are removed after 20 minutes with a clean, damp cloth.
• Potash and soda in equal proportions (50 g each). Both substances are mixed and poured into 1 liter of hot water. To enhance the effect, you can add 250 ml of acetone.
• Caustic soda. It is dissolved in half a liter of cold water. You can also add 250 ml of a solvent such as acetone.

Important! Any of these products can only be applied to a sanded, but not painted surface. Otherwise, acetone will dissolve the paint and the finished finish will not look the most attractive way.

• 25 g arboreal or any liquid soap mixed with 50 ml of ammonia and 1 liter of hot water;
• acetic solution of concentrated acid and water in a ratio of 1:50.

Important! The last resort is also well suited to remove alkali residues after using any other substance or solution to get rid of the resin on the boards. It helps a lot, including when you wash already finished walls and it is necessary to remove the remnants of the cleaner from the joints of the crowns.

In this case, you can burn through all the places where coniferous tree sap is formed with a blowtorch, then cleaning them with sandpaper of a suitable degree of graininess.

When giving preference to a coniferous board, remember that you will not be able to completely get rid of the resin on the boards. It can appear at any, the most unexpected moment for you. But it's really not like that global problem, after all, it is possible to remove the “sap”, and the beauty, environmental friendliness and benefits of such wood cannot be compared with any modern plastic or other material. Let your home be filled with only the pleasant aroma of pine needles and always look cozy. And with minor resin problems, you now know how to deal with it.

The wood of coniferous trees differs from hardwoods by its high content of natural resins and therefore is resistant to the formation of rot and mold. She retains her characteristics long time and in demand in various industries construction.

However, along with the undoubted advantages, resinous wood also has some disadvantages. It is sticky and does not interact well with paints and varnishes, which greatly complicates processing.

How to remove resin from boards? To do this, you can use several methods, and the result will depend on the type and effectiveness of the cleanser.

Solvent Application

Resin is removed from the surface of coniferous wood using the following substances:

• acetone;
• white spirit or refined gasoline;
• turpentine;
• nitro solvent;
• alcohol.

They do not damage the boards and, upon completion of the cleaning activities, quickly disappear. This method is advisable to use for processing a significant amount of wood. The remaining solvent is washed off with warm water.

Use of lye and ammonia

Gum from the boards is removed using alkali solutions, and the surface must be unpainted. Otherwise, the remnants of the cleaning compounds dry out and crystallize, destroying the paintwork. To prepare an alkaline mixture, dissolve 50 g of soda or potash in 1 liter of water, adding 250 ml of acetone to the container. When using caustic soda, 0.25 g of the powder is placed in a solvent, which is cold water in a volume of 0.5 ml and 250 ml of acetone. During processing, the alkali should be hot, and after its residues are neutralized with a plentiful spill of water and a solution of acetic acid in a ratio of 1:50.

Another cleaning option is to remove the resin with a mixture of ammonia and acetone, which is applied with a brush. After 20 minutes, the resulting foam is washed off, and the boards are rinsed with a large amount of pure water. For achievement maximum effect the procedure is repeated 2-3 times.

The removal of resin from the surface of coniferous boards is carried out after careful grinding of the surface. The need for such treatment is due to the penetration of cleaning compounds into the wood no deeper than 1-2 mm. With further heating, the resin may show through even if the surface of the boards is covered with a paint and varnish composition.

Drying the boards in special chambers will help to partially remove the unwanted heterogeneous mixture of fatty and resin acids, waxes, alcohols and other components.