Making a circular staircase to the attic with your own hands. How to make a reliable staircase to the attic with your own hands. How to build an attic staircase with your own hands
If your house has an attic, it can be turned into a cozy and functional room for leisure or work. This will save you from the need to build additional outbuildings and floors. The primary step in the arrangement of the attic is the installation of a ladder, thanks to which you can easily and safely climb into the attic. We will tell you about the types of attic stairs, what material to give preference to and whether it is possible to install the structure yourself.
Construction of attic stairs
Based on how much free space is available in your home for the installation of the structure, you can choose absolutely miscellaneous products. Consider everything now existing types attic stairs:
- "Duck step". Steps with cutouts from one edge are installed through one.
- Retractable with sunroof. Used in case of limited space. The stairs go up and the entrance to the attic is closed with a hatch.
- Screw. Great option for climbing to the attic when there is a shortage free space. The design is a support axis with steps fixed in a spiral.
- Straight staircase with one central beam. The steps are fixed in the center to the support beam.
- Direct single-march. The most common version of the stairs, despite the fact that it takes up a lot of space.
- Turning two-march. A kind of single-flight staircase, which has an additional turn in order to save space.
Varieties in the photo
Rotary double-flight staircase is used in rooms with a small area Straight single-flight staircase has high strength and is easy to manufacture Straight staircase with one bearing beam is the simplest design Spiral staircase looks aesthetically pleasing and takes up little space 
Retractable staircase retracts to the attic when not needed
As you can see, there are plenty of variations of this product. However, owners of private houses often prefer simple march structures. As a support in them, stringers, bolts or a spinal structure can act. In country houses, stairs are usually installed on stringers, as they are considered the most durable and strong. As an example, consider the device of a straight staircase erected parallel to the wall. In addition, the design is relatively simple to manufacture and any owner with basic technical knowledge and construction skills can install such a product.
Important: The purchase of a finished staircase is not always justified, because inner dimensions private houses often differ. Therefore, work on site in this case is the most correct solution. So you can take into account any deviations and correct inaccuracies.
Before proceeding to the workflow, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with all the terms that are used when installing stairs.
Structural elements of the stairs to the attic
Kosour - a supporting element of the structure, which is a strong beam (metal or wooden) with special teeth under the steps. Often marching stairs have two stringers. But in the case of erecting a large structure, the width of which exceeds 1.2 m, a third (central) beam should be installed.
Important: The minimum thickness of the kosour made of timber should be 50 mm, and the width should be 250 mm. This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure.
Tread - horizontal surface steps, that is, the place on which you stand. This structural element is often made from boards with a thickness of 25–50 mm. At the same time, the greater the width of the steps, more precisely, the distance between the stringers, the stronger the boards need to be used. The tread should not deform under the weight of a person. All steps have a small ledge hanging over the underlying tread. Its value should be in the range from 20 to 40 mm. The upper edge of the steps is processed with a grinder in order to prevent the appearance of chips.
The riser is the vertical distance between adjacent steps. In wooden stairs, it is often covered with some kind of lightweight material, for example, plywood up to 15 mm thick. However, you can not close the gap. In the latter case, you will reduce the installation time of the stairs, the consumption of material, and also greatly simplify the process of washing and cleaning the flights of stairs.
Material selection and tool preparation
Since we are making a ladder on stringers with our own hands, we will use wood as a material. Metal structures are also good, because they have high strength and have an attractive appearance. But to implement such a project, it will take welding machine and ability to work with it. For the construction of wooden stairs, coniferous and hardwoods are excellent. Yes, from coniferous trees most commonly used:
- The most preferred option is larch or cedar. These breeds have a chic appearance, are easy to process and are little susceptible to decay.
- Spruce. Also good lumber, but has a lot of knots. Therefore, it requires additional processing surfaces.
- Pine is the most a budget option. At the same time, its main advantage is ease of processing.
As for deciduous trees, oak is the leader, followed by beech and ash.
Helpful Hint: Before buying lumber, check that there are no damages (cracks, chips, bends) on it. Also, do not purchase wood affected by grinder insects.
In addition to wooden beams, consumables such as varnish, paint and screws will be needed to build a staircase. And, of course, for the job you will need the following tools:
- wood saw or circular saw;
- jigsaw;
- building level;
- metal corner;
- pencil;
- drill;
- grinder or sandpaper;
- wood glue;
- paint brushes.
Before you start assembling the stairs to the attic with your own hands, you need to study the installation features of the structure and perform a competent calculation.
Installation rules
The dependence of the size of the steps on the angle of inclination of the stairs
The key point in the construction of the structure is the observance of the angle of inclination. If the latter is less than 20 °, then such a staircase will look more like a ramp. With a structure angle of more than 50°, you can only go down it backwards. A tilt of 30°–38° is considered correct. But for the attic, it is usually increased to 45 °. The dimensions of the steps and the riser are determined depending on the angle of inclination of the stairs. So, the smaller the angle of inclination, the deeper the tread, and the smaller the riser; the steeper the angle of inclination, the greater the distance between the steps, and the less their depth. However, there are some limitations:
- the maximum and minimum step heights are 20 cm and 12 cm, respectively;
- the largest and smallest depths are 38 cm and 30 cm, respectively;
You can see that if you add up the extreme dimensions of the tread and riser, then we get 50 cm. This value can be slightly reduced - up to 45 cm. For example, in most multi-storey buildings the depth of the step on concrete flights of stairs is about 32 cm, while the height is 17 cm.
There are also special calculation formulas and diagrams by which you can determine the ideal ratio of these dimensions. However, these methods are only used for standard design. Due to the fact that when building a staircase in a private house with your own hands it is quite difficult to withstand all these parameters, many take verified approximate values as a basis:
- If the angle of inclination is 33°–37°, the height of the riser is 16 cm;
- at an angle of 38°–42° - 18 cm;
- at an angle of 45 ° - 20 cm.
As for the width of the flight of stairs, a value of 80 cm is considered optimal. If more than two people live in the house, then this distance can be increased to one meter. In addition, there is a requirement for the design of the passage height, which must be at least 2 m.
Choosing the location of the stairs
After reviewing the requirements for the installation of stairs, you can proceed to the selection of the installation location of the product. Perfect option- this is the location of the exit to the attic in a separate small room, for example, insulated vestibule. This will allow you to build a ladder of any size, and also provide good thermal insulation. If there is no vestibule, then the ladder should be installed against the far wall. So, the design will not interfere with walking around the room and will not take up much free space.
Creating a hatch
You should get a smooth through hole, which will become the entrance to the attic
Work on the installation of stairs to the attic begins with the implementation of the inlet - the hatch. The first step is to make markings on the floor of the attic. In this case, it is advisable not to get on the floor beam. If there is no flooring in the attic, then determining the presence of a supporting element is a little easier. However, there are cases when beams cannot be determined visually. For example, if at the stage of building a house a layer of insulation and waterproofing was laid in the ceiling. Therefore, if the beams are not visible, you can determine the optimal location of the hatch using a perforator with a long thin drill. Complete multiple vertical drilling in the ceiling, thereby sketching out the outline of the future entrance to the attic. Then draw with a pencil the exact location of the hatch.
The next step involves cutting the ceiling. To do this, use circular saw. Cutting should be done very carefully and with strong gloves so as not to injure your hands. The fact is that hardware can get caught in the ceiling. It is also desirable to put on the saw blade with the hardest possible teeth. After cutting the ceiling, remove the layer thermal insulation material and remove all unnecessary details ceiling covering. As a result, you should get a smooth through hole, which will become the entrance to the attic.
Important: You can proceed to the calculation of the amount of materials only after creating the hatch. Make any measurements with a non-existent " front door» to the top floor - it makes no sense. After all, the features of the floor and the location of the load-bearing beams can affect the installation location of the stairs and its dimensions.
Marking and cutting stringers
The process of creating a kosour
- Stretch the rope along the wall from the far side of the hatch to the base of the structure on the ground floor. Determine the number of steps by slightly varying the slope. The obtuse angle between the rope and the floor is the angle at which the steps should be placed on the stringer.
- On the support beam, apply the appropriate marking of the steps and cut out the grooves.
- Shorten the stringer board according to the length of the previously stretched rope. The cut is made taking into account the selected slope. At the same time, it is necessary to shorten the beam so that its lower edge is not on the floor, but on the stop (bar) cut into the floor.
- From above, insert a fastener into the kosour or leave a small protrusion in advance. The spike is necessary for attaching the base board to the floor beam.
Helpful Hint: You can make grooves on the stringer in another way. Attach the plank to the wall along the stretched rope. In accordance with the angle of inclination, draw steps on the support beam using a building level.
The marking of the remaining beams is carried out in a similar way. In order for the design to be symmetrical and not skewed, complete the second and third (if necessary) stringers, strictly observing all the dimensions of the first.
Ladder assembly
Mounting wooden stairs to the attic
- First of all, the base of the stairs is installed. Using a drill and self-tapping screws, screw the stringer to the pre-installed thrust bar. The spikes should be inserted into the prepared holes, smeared with wood glue. To thoroughly fix the structure on the stop, use metal corners and plates. The board adjacent to the wall is immediately attached at the top.
- Steps are installed from the bottom up. When preparing the treads, there will be some errors in length. That is why the second stringer should be attached to the ceiling only after the installation of the last step. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws. And do not forget to coat all the joints with glue. If you plan to install risers, then they also need to be screwed, starting from the first step.
- Railing installation. The end post is placed first. Screw it to one of the first steps from the bottom with a powerful self-tapping screw. Install the balusters in the same way, you can use 2 pieces per step. In this case, the racks must have strictly vertical position. The procedure continues until the very last step, on which the pillar is again placed. After that, we install railings on balusters and poles.
- Finally, we finish the surface. For this we use a special protective compound or varnish, which will make the design more aesthetic.
The process of installing stairs to the attic cannot be called a simple task, however, it is not a very difficult task either. If you want to build a reliable and durable structure yourself, strictly adhere to all the above rules and recommendations.
What should be the stairs to the attic? If you are Batman and your wife fairy fairy with wings, you will conquer any peak and fly up to the attic floor without any problems. Oh yes! Perhaps you are a thrill-seeker, then a rope ladder to the attic will suit you - an unforgettable attraction for the strong and brave. For people who are not looking for easy ways, just right attached structure because balancing on the edge and even with a cup of coffee is so breathtaking!
Our article is for people who are used to taking care of their comfort and safety, so they just need a comfortable, practical and compact ladder to the attic. Next, we will discuss in detail how to make an attic staircase with your own hands, what design and what materials are appropriate for such structures, we will offer several diagrams, drawings and photos from step by step instructions, videos will help you understand the nuances of the device attic stairs.
Where to install the ladder
It seems possible to get to the attic floor of the house in two ways - from the street and from the inside. More convenient internal device stairs to the attic, no need to go outside, this is especially true in the cold season. But sometimes a separate entrance to the attached floor is required in order to maintain the isolation of the room, if the bedroom is located in the attic, or to eliminate the anxiety of the household, then along the wall of the house it is installed outdoor staircase leading to the attic.
An external staircase to the attic is installed for a separate entrance to the upper floor in order to clearly delimit the premises, or when there is no space inside the house
Advice: The street staircase to the attic floor has a significant drawback, intruders can enter the house through it, so it is recommended to install solid doors, or provide a staircase to the attic from the veranda.Often a tower is attached to the house in order to place a staircase to the attic floor in it. Such a solution can become an architectural highlight in the arrangement of the attic with great practical benefits - saving usable living space.
Attic stairs, photo 2 structures that occupy almost the same usable area: on the left - an attraction for the hardy, on the right - a comfortable and safe ladder
Before proceeding with the practical part of manufacturing an attic staircase, you should consider what design it is advisable to install in the attic and how to arrange it so as not to lose most of the living space.
Staircase for the attic floor
I would like the design not to clutter up the space, since many houses and cottages do not have extra space. The stairs to the attic floor should be at least safe and compact, but comfortable, so that the descents and ascents do not become a dangerous adventure for the residents. This is especially true if small children and the elderly live in the house.
Stair elements
Staircase - hatch
Most compact version for the attic floor loft ladder hatch, it folds and retracts behind the cover, which smoothly closes the entrance. The attic staircase is equipped with a spring mechanism, so when opening it, it is enough to pull the hatch down, the spans do not fall, but are neatly unfolded, the last flight, as a rule, unfolds manually. The structure is lifted with the help of automation. In some models, the spans are connected in a scissor way, they are laid out in one march.
Staircase-hatch to the attic floor, compact, easily transformed, convenient option when there is no room for stationary flights of stairs
Marching stairs
Classic marching stairs are easy to use, they can be made independently. The designs differ in the way the steps are attached to the supporting beam: on stringers, on bowstrings or on bolts.
Ladder device options
A standard straight, single-flight attic staircase is mounted at an angle. The angle of inclination depends on the height of the ceilings: if the room is low, then the stairs will be steep, which is extremely inconvenient to use.
The bolt staircase to the attic floor is a light, weightless design, a properly calculated staircase can withstand a weight of 1800 kg per step, they practically do not exert a load on bearing structures building
Two-, three-flight turning stairs make it possible to make a convenient and safe ascent to the attic floor, but they take up a lot of space, you will have to allocate a platform in the house, usually such structures are provided when designing the attic floor. This is convenient if the area of \u200b\u200bhousing allows you to give up several square meters, but more often the attic is made precisely because of the lack of living space, so it is not always advisable to install such a design. Usually flights of mid-flight stairs are separated by a square platform where you can rest, but sometimes the turntable is equipped with trapezoidal winders.
The stairs on the stringers are two support boards at an angle, on which the steps are attached.
Spiral and involute attic stairs
The device of a spiral staircase to the attic floor involves the use of winder steps only. It saves a lot of space in the house, but you can stumble on the trapezoid steps, descents and ascents are associated with certain inconveniences. To adapt the design to operation, it is necessary to install stable and comfortable railings that you can hold on to. For children and the elderly, spiral staircases pose a fair amount of risk.
In some cases, only an involute staircase will help to correctly organize the entrance to the attic
Involute stairs are distinguished by a curved stringer, it is very difficult to calculate and make such a design on your own, but it will harmoniously fit into any shape of the room and, undoubtedly, will become an interior decoration.
A spiral staircase to the attic, the photo clearly demonstrates that such a design saves a lot of space, but a steep climb to the floor and almost triangular steps make it difficult for children and the elderly to operate
Comfortable stairs dimensions
The most comfortable distance between the steps is 150 mm, and the depth is 300 mm, the same depth should be in the middle of the winder steps, these dimensions allow you to effortlessly climb the stairs, leaning with your entire foot. The most convenient width of the stairs is 800-1000 mm. With a width of more than 1200 mm, where 2 people freely diverge, it is recommended to install an additional stringer in the middle. For one person, a staircase to the attic floor and 500 mm wide is suitable. The slope of the span for comfortable use should be from 45 degrees or less.
Table for determining the angle of inclination of marches
According to the norms of SNiP, including considerations of ergonomics and safety of operation:
- Depth of steps - 250-400 mm;
- The height of the riser is 120-220 mm.
The material for manufacturing can be metal, concrete, wood, glass, most often in practice there are combined structures or wooden ones. It depends on the interior design and financial possibilities.
The original design of the stairs to the attic will be a decoration for the house
Each manufacturing option has its own advantages and disadvantages. A very impressive technique for decorating an extension is shiny metal structures with glass steps. Wooden stairs, of course, add luxury, sophistication and solidity to the interior. Metal structures can withstand heavy loads, and if they are decorated with forged steps and railings, then the staircase becomes the highlight of your home.
Rules for calculating the slope of the stairs
whole metal stairs they are rarely installed inside the house, more often do-it-yourself attic stairs are made of wood, or the frame is made of metal, and the steps are wooden. If the ceiling height is standard, then you can buy finished structure and install it yourself.
Photo, stairs to the attic floor, can be bought at ready-made and assemble by yourself modular designs adjustable not only in height and width of the steps, but also in the angle of rotation, which allows you to make a straight or turntable to the attic floor
Advice: The height between each of the steps and the ceiling should be 2 m or more, so that even a tall person does not experience discomfort when walking up the stairs.
Compact attic staircase "goose step", the difference in the width of the steps can significantly save space
So that when climbing to the floor there is no pressing sensation on the head, the direction of the march should be the same as the direction of the roof slope. Also, if the direction of the march is towards the slope, then the exit will have to be just to the wall.
Incorrect layout of the stairs to the attic, in order to avoid typical mistakes, be sure to draw a diagram
How to build a ladder
Do-it-yourself staircase to the attic is a responsible task, but quite feasible, self-manufacturing and installation will significantly save the budget, and the result will certainly become your pride.
The most simple model- this is a staircase on stringers, with some imagination, such a design can turn into an original element of the interior, it is safe and practical if a living room is arranged in the attic.
Methods for attaching steps to stringers
Would need:
- for stringers, glued laminated timber or pine carriage;
- board for steps, with a thickness of 40 mm, you can buy ready-made;
- board for risers, thickness - 20 mm (this element of the stairs can be excluded);
- balusters;
- railing;
- fixture.
Option: cut protrusions.
How to make a kosour
The construction of the stairs to the attic begins with the manufacture of the stringer. On the beam intended for the kosour, we make markings - right-angled triangles, in which: the hypotenuse is the edge of the beam, one leg is the height of the riser, the second leg is the depth of the step. Cutting marked triangles circular saw. It is desirable to mill all edges, chamfer 2-6 mm.
Advice: for marking accuracy, it is better to use a rigid triangle template with marks. The template is applied to the stringer, the marks must exactly match the edge of the beam.
How to correctly transfer the dimensions of the steps to the kosour
Stringer installation
Next, the kosour is installed in place. The upper edge is adjacent to the end of the floor or platform, which creates a horizontal bursting force and a vertical load. The fastening method depends on the thickness of the beams, the strength of the platforms and design features attic stairs.
The fastenings of the stringer to the upper beam can be with cutting, without cutting into the upper beam, and with entry under the upper platform, the photo below shows three options:
Stringer fastening with cutting into the beam
This is the most common and reliable mounting option. The first option involves washing down in the support beam, into which the edge of the stringer is inserted. The second option is that a rectangular cut is made both in the kosour and in the beam, or an inclined gash is made only in the beam, it must coincide with the slope of the kosour. Washed down, made in a kosour, weakens it, so it cannot be made large.
Kosour without cutting into the beam
Kosour with entry under the upper platform
In addition to cutting, you can install the kosour on metal fasteners, on corners or bolts. This mounting method is simple and convenient, but only possible for light stairs.
It is also important to provide a strong support for the kosour and its secure fixation at the bottom to avoid shifting. The lower end of the kosour can be attached in two ways.
The first scheme - from the bottom of the kosour, an angular cutout is made for the supporting beam, a corresponding groove is also made in the beam. The cutout of the stringer is inserted into the cutout in the supporting beam. After that, the kosour is fixed with metal corners, or by vertical tightening with studs.
The second scheme - a cutout is made in the beam, then the lower corner of the stringer is inserted into the groove. Such fastening is very tight and reliable due to the expansion, but the section of the support beam must be large enough, since such fastening weakens the beam.
Ways bottom mount stringer
Important: In the manufacture of a two-flight staircase, the size and height of the platform must be determined. The platform is installed before the installation of stringers. Mortgages are provided in the walls for its fastening. If fastening to the walls is not possible, then support poles are mounted.How to fix steps
It is better to connect the risers and treads with glue and screws, the nail connection weakens during the operation of the attic staircase. They are fastened flush with screws or in a groove. You can also use overhead strips and corners for fastening. durable and reliable connection- nailless fastening with wooden dowels.
Advice: During installation wooden parts from hard rock use softwood dowels and vice versa. Otherwise, the pin will split the parts.
Ways of fastening steps for a wooden staircase
The edges of the steps should protrude beyond the riser by 20-50 mm.
After all the steps are fixed, you can install the balusters and railings of the stairs.
The article contains informative diagrams, photo and video materials on how to make a staircase to the attic floor with your own hands, be sure to look, maybe they will give you an idea and push you to a solution challenging tasks during the construction of the attic.
With proper arrangement, an ordinary attic space turns into a comfortable and perfectly suitable for living. attic room. To ensure safe and most convenient access to the attic floor, it is necessary to install a reliable staircase. With the assembly and installation of stairs, if desired, you can handle on their own. Read the instructions and get started.
There are several main types of stairs suitable for providing access to the attic.
The most compact and easy to manufacture option. Such steps are assembled and hidden behind a cover that closes the entrance to the under-roof room.
The design is based on a spring mechanism that allows you to quickly and without special efforts to open the stairs - you just need to pull the hatch down, after which the spans will smoothly decompose. Last flight of stairs usually has to be sorted out by hand.
To lift the structure, it is best to install special automation - with it it will be simply more convenient and easier to use the stairs.
The traditional and most common option. Such ladders are the most reliable and easy to use. The steps of the stairs can be fixed on bowstrings, bolts and stringers.
Installation of a conventional single-flight staircase is carried out at a certain angle. The specific value of the slope is selected individually, taking into account the height of the ceilings in the room. If the distance from floor to ceiling is large, the stairs will have a rather steep descent, which is not very convenient.
With the help of stairs of two and three marches, you can organize the safest and most convenient ascent to the attic. However, to accommodate such rotary structures, quite a lot of space is needed. Typically, such stairs are provided at the design stage of the attic.
A spiral staircase to the attic can be equipped exclusively with the use of winders. This design saves a lot usable space, however, trapezoidal steps can hardly be called completely safe and very comfortable, especially for the elderly and young children.
A spiral staircase must be equipped with comfortable and stable railings.
Very beautiful and original design. Settled on a curved kosour. It is extremely difficult to independently calculate and assemble such a ladder in the absence of proper skills.
However, subject to proper arrangement, the involute staircase will be a great addition to any interior.
Pay due attention to the design of the stairs to the attic. Optimal depth the steps are considered to be 30 cm. The most comfortable step between the steps is about 15 cm. With such parameters, it will be possible to comfortably and safely climb and descend the stairs, leaning on the steps with the entire surface of the foot.
The most convenient width of the stairs is considered to be 80-100 cm. If the width of the stairs is more than 1.2 m, an additional central stringer must be included in the design.
One person of average build will feel comfortable when using a ladder with a half-meter width.
Try to make the slope of the span no more than 45 degrees.
Actual normative documents requires that the steps of the stairs have a depth of 25-40 cm, and the height of the riser is 12-22 cm.
Try to design the staircase so that there is at least 200 cm of free space between each step and the ceiling. Even tall people will not experience discomfort on such a ladder.
For the rest, be guided by your own preferences, not forgetting about personal comfort and, of course, safety.
What is the staircase made of?
For the arrangement of attic stairs, the most a variety of materials. Their list includes:
- glass;
- concrete mortar;
- wood;
- metal.
In practice, stairs are most often made of wood or use a combination of materials. At this point, you must make the decision yourself, focusing on the interior design features, personal preferences and available budget.
Each material has both a number of strengths and certain disadvantages.
For example, metal stairs with glass steps look very impressive, but they are quite expensive.
Wooden structures bring a certain sophistication and comfort to the interior, but require competent and regular maintenance.
All-metal and concrete structures withstand even very heavy loads, but do not fit very well into the interior of residential premises and create heavy loads on the base (ceiling).
In general, when choosing a material for making stairs, be guided by your personal preferences.
Where to install the ladder?
The stairs to the attic floor can be installed outdoors and indoors. The most convenient option is, of course, the internal placement of the stairs. In such a situation, you do not have to go outside, which is especially appreciated in bad weather.
However, in some situations, there is a need for external arrangement of stairs to isolate attic room. An external staircase is best made of metal. AT similar situation be sure to install reliable burglar-proof doors at the entrance to the attic to protect your property from intruders.
You can come up with original design options for street stairs. For example, quite often the owners add a beautiful tower around the steps to the house. Such a solution brings its own zest to the architecture of the site.
Select best option placement of stairs to the attic, taking into account the above recommendations. Whenever possible, try to prioritize internal location designs.
Do-it-yourself wooden stationary staircase
Most simple option for self erection is a single-flight staircase, the design of which is based on stringers. This design is convenient and practical. It does not require a lot of free space and without any difficulty settles on its own. It is the order of assembly of such a structure that will be discussed below.
Work set
- Glued laminated timber (preferably from pine or other durable rock) for arranging stringers.
- Board for the design of steps. Use elements with a thickness of at least 4-5 cm. You can also buy steps ready-made. Do it the way you feel most comfortable.
- Boards for the manufacture of risers. Optimal Thickness elements - 2 cm. In most cases (if the load on the stairs is not too large), the use of these structural components can be abandoned.
- Fasteners.
- Railings to choose from.
- Balusters.
This manual provides instructions for making stairs with cut-in treads.
Start preparing the kosour. To do this, make a markup on the original beam. The product must be divided into triangles. The hypotenuse of each such triangle will serve as the edge of the beam, one of the legs will be responsible for the depth of the step, and the second for the height of the riser.
Cut out the triangles with a suitable tool. The easiest and fastest way to do this is with a circular saw.
Trim the edges of the products. Optimal size chamfers - 2-5 mm.
For more ease of implementation marking work you can pre-make a triangle template of the required size.
Proceed with the installation of the kosour in the place intended for this. The top edge of the product must adjoin the end of the interfloor overlap. As a result, a reliable and stable system will be created.
Select the fixing method in accordance with the design features of the stairs, the thickness of the beams and other significant parameters.
The best option for fixing the kosour to the beam located above is with the use of plunging. It is also possible to fasten the kosour with going under the surface of the site and without directly cutting into the beam.
The plunging technique is the most reliable and common. To make such a connection, make a drink right size in the support beam and insert the edge of the stringer into it. The created gash should not be too large, because. any recesses lead to a decrease in the strength and reliability of the structure.
Instead of plunging, you can use bolt-on or angle-mount options. However, these mounting options are only suitable for lightweight staircase designs.
The kosour must be fixed as rigidly and securely as possible so that the risk of shift is completely eliminated. You can use two methods to attach the lower end of the stringer.
In accordance with the first method, it is necessary to make an angular cutout for the supporting beam from below the element. A groove of the appropriate size is prepared directly in the beam. As a result, you will only have to insert the cutout of the stringer into the groove prepared in the support beam and fix the element with the help of corners or tighten it with vertical studs.
In accordance with the second method, the cutout is created directly in the support beam, after which the lower corner of the stair stringer is inserted into it. This fixation option is reliable, however, the support beam in such a situation should have a rather large cross section.
If you plan to make a staircase of two flights, first determine the dimensions of the site. The site must be fixed before attaching the stringers. To do this, provide stable and reliable mortgages in the walls. If it is impossible to attach the platform to the wall, use vertical support posts.
To connect the treads and risers, it is best to use screws and glue. The nails will loosen over time.
Fixing elements are placed flush. Also, corners and strips can be used to fasten the structure. In addition, a fairly reliable and very durable connection option is installation using wooden dowels.
If the stairs are made of hardwood, it is recommended that the fixing pins be made of softwood, and vice versa. Otherwise, the fastener will split the base material.
Fasten the steps so that their edges extend beyond the boundaries of the riser by 2-4 cm.
Fix all the planned steps.
In conclusion, you will have to mount the railings and balusters, and then treat all the wooden structural elements with an antiseptic. It would be useful to cover the wood with a flame retardant. Also, the material can be subjected to such treatments even before final assembly stairs. Do it the way you feel most comfortable.
You can cover the stairs if you wish. paint and varnish composition or decorate it with others finishing material of your choice.
Successful work!
An attic staircase on stringers (boards with cutouts for steps) is considered simple product, an amateur with little carpentry experience can make it.
The simplest design of the attic staircase looks like a single span along the wall. The material used is wooden boards. The strength and reliability of a ladder is determined by the weight it can support. Permissible load– 2 tons minimum. On the floor of the attic, outline the contours of the hatch, the width of which will determine the width of the steps (80-100 cm). The hatch is recommended to be made square. Cut the opening with a circular saw.
The advantage of a self-made staircase over a purchased one is that it takes into account deviations and inaccuracies in the design of the house. The store ladder may simply not be in its regular place.
Buying a finished staircase to the attic is not always the right decision. The internal dimensions of the premises are different, and the design may simply not fit in size. Individual order- expensive pleasure. Therefore, many people think about making stairs with their own hands.
Working locally is the best course of action. This is how it will be possible to take into account any nuances of the layout of the house and eliminate inaccuracies in time. Correctly designing a wooden staircase is within the power of any craftsman with the slightest carpentry skills.
Variants of stairs to the attic: advantages and disadvantages of the main types
The device of the attic room - up-to-date and effective method expansion of the living area of a private house. However, in this case, it is required to resolve the issue of lifting to the upper floor. Mistakes made during the design and installation of the staircase structure can “nullify” all the advantages of the attic space. An ill-conceived placement and type of construction can "eat" additional meters acquired during the arrangement of a living room.
Based on the location of the stairs relative to the house, two types of structures are distinguished: external and internal.
An external staircase can be used as temporary or permanent. outdoor structure has some features:
- The attic floor with a separate entrance allows you to delimit the living space. This is especially true if the owner of the "attic" room wants to go to his room without disturbing the rest of the household.
- An external staircase does not clutter up the space inside the premises, which is very important for houses with a small area.
- It should be borne in mind that intruders and thieves often try to penetrate through the external staircase. For home improvement in an unguarded holiday village, it is better to choose internal compact structures.
The internal layout of the stairs is the most common option. If the area of \u200b\u200bthe house allows, then such a design - optimal solution. The attic staircase can become an interior decoration, and in winter time to climb to the second floor, you will not have to go across the street. Possible drawback- use of usable area.
According to the type of construction, there are five main types of stairs to the attic:
Comparing the pros and cons, taking into account the dimensions of the room and the existing circumstances, it will be possible to determine the optimal design of the stairs for the house.
The device stairs to the attic: basic terms
The main structural elements of the stairs are: kosour, tread and risers.
Kosour - load-bearing beam. In fact, this is a board on which fragments are sawn out for the installation of steps. In the manufacture of wooden stairs, the thickness of the stringer should not be less than 50 mm, the minimum allowable width is 250 mm. As a rule, two load-bearing beams are used. An additional kosour is mounted if the width of the attic staircase exceeds 1.2 meters.
Tread - the horizontal part of the step, which is stepped on while walking. When developing a drawing, it must be taken into account that the greater the distance between load-bearing beams, the stronger the steps should be. For the manufacture of these parts, boards with a thickness of 25-50 mm are used. The treads have an overhang of 20-40 mm over the appropriate step.
Riser - the vertical part between the treads. This structural element usually does not carry a load. In some versions of the stairs, there are no risers at all - such a rise visually seems easier.
The choice of material for the manufacture of wooden stairs to the attic
The staircase structure is a full-fledged part of the interior, and in the case of an external staircase to the attic, it is an important architectural element. Choosing the design and material of the stairs, you need to focus on the interior of the house.
Wooden stairs are suitable for many styles and fit easily into the interior. In addition, wood is easier to work with than other materials. Therefore, if you plan to independently manufacture stairs, then it is better to choose wood.
Important! The tree needs protective treatment, which increases the resistance of the material to moisture and fire.
You can build a ladder from both coniferous and hardwood. The ideal option from conifers is cedar and larch. The wood looks good, is easy to process and practically does not rot.
Spruce is slightly inferior in its characteristics. Its main drawback is the presence a large number knots. It is easy to work with pine, an additional plus of wood is an affordable cost.
Of hardwoods, oak is best suited for creating stairs. In second place for performance characteristics- beech, and on the third - ash.
Metal attic stairs emphasize the individuality of the design of the house. The construction is very strong and reliable. You can give the metal any color or order chrome plating - the decision depends on the style of the attic and the entire room.
It is quite difficult to build a metal staircase on your own - you will need a welding machine and experience working with it.
Stone or concrete stairs- heavyweights that visually burden the interior of the house. It is better to build such a lift outside the house. Subsequently, the stairs can be plastered and painted in a suitable shade.
How to make a staircase to the attic: step-by-step installation of a marching structure
Choosing a place to install the stairs
To install the stairs, you need to determine the most optimal place:
- It is optimal if the entrance to the attic is located in a separate room such as a vestibule. This will allow you to equip the staircase with convenient dimensions and provide additional thermal insulation of the room. If necessary, the vestibule can be simply closed and cold air from the attic will not get to the lower floor. This is convenient if the attic is used as a living room only in the summer.
- In the absence of a vestibule lifting structure it is better to build near the far wall of the room. This arrangement saves usable space, and the steps will not interfere with walking around the room.
- When planning the installation of folding steps, it is better to provide not just a passage, but a closing hatch in the ceiling - this will help minimize heat loss in the room.
Calculation of stairs and drawing up a drawing
There are certain norms that determine the permissible values of the main parameters of the stairs. Manufacturing of structures in compliance with established dimensions guarantees safety and ease of movement on the stairs. The following rules must be adhered to:
- the width of the stairs should not be less than 80-100 cm;
- comfortable step width - 20-32 cm (optimally - 30 cm);
- narrow part running stage- not less than 10 cm;
- riser height - 15-19 cm;
- the slope of the marching stairs is 20-40 °.
Approximate procedure for calculating the dimensions of the stairs:
- Measure the height of the floor - the difference between the level of the finished floor of the lower floor and the attic. Let's say the value is 250 cm.
- Determine the height and number of steps. To do this, the height of the rise should be divided by the height of the riser (18 cm), that is: 250/18 = 13.88 pieces. Since fractional numbers are not suitable, then 13.88 must be rounded up to 14 pieces. Accordingly, the actual height of the steps will not be 18 cm, but 17.85 cm (250/14).
- Calculate the length of the march. If we take the width of the steps at 27 cm, then the total length of the march will be 405 cm (14 * 27).
- Based on the calculations made, make a drawing and markup.
- Then measure the distance between the edges of the attic floor. Mark the lines on the drawing.
- Measure the distance from the edge of the attic floor to the steps of the stairs. According to GOST, this value must be at least 185 cm for unhindered movement up the stairs. If this size is smaller, then the length of the march must be reduced by increasing the height of the steps and reducing their number.
- The calculation of the stringers is carried out according to the formula: step height + step length * 4.76. That is: 4.05 + 2.5 * 4.76 \u003d 4.75 m.
- The width of the stringers should be twice the size of the riser, that is: 17.85 * 2 = 35.7 cm.
Stair Assembly Order
Prepare boards for stringers - they must be bought with a small margin. For example, with the required stringer length of 4.75 m, you need to take a board 5 m long. Mark the slots on the stringers using a joiner's corner. Draw places for cutting steps and number them.
Since the calculations were performed without taking into account the thickness of the boards, this value must be taken into account when cutting the lower part of the stringer.
Important! After cutting the stringers, they must be compared with each other - they must match exactly, otherwise it will not work to assemble a solid staircase.
The next step is cutting out the platform beam. The width of the beam is calculated as follows: the width of the stairs (90 cm) + double the thickness of the stringer + 14 cm (depending on the parameters of the stairs). So, according to the above example, the platform beam is: 90 + 2 * 5 + 14 \u003d 114 cm. You will need two such beams.
In the prepared beams, make cuts, departing from the edge by 7 cm. The width of the cuts should correspond to the thickness of the stringer. The beams are then fixed to the floor with anchors.
Install stringers in the grooves and fasten them to the beams with studs or dowels. Kosour, which is joined near the wall, fasten to it with anchors. Then steps and risers are installed. The fixation of structural elements is carried out in one of the ways: by cutting, screws or dowels.
The final stage is the installation of balusters and the installation of a handrail.
Installation of a spiral staircase to the attic
The design of a spiral staircase has a number of features that must be considered when designing and installing:
- in spiral staircases usually no risers;
- when people move, the middle of the steps is subjected to the main load, so the width of this part must be at least 20 cm;
- the narrowest part of the step should not be less than 10 cm;
- optimal diameter screw design- 220 cm;
- the branches of the steps should be at a distance of about 2 meters from each other;
- steps are located with a slight overlap - this provides additional structural strength, the edges of adjacent steps are connected by brackets.
The assembly sequence of the spiral staircase:
- Support stand installation. The beam is fixed to the wooden floor with special fasteners, to the cement floor it is concreted with stretch marks.
- Cut holes in the treads and "put" them on the support post.
- Divide the steps between each other with bushings of the desired height. Place safety washers between steps and bushings.
- Distribute the steps according to the plan and fix with brackets.
- Install railings and handrails.
Staircase to the attic in a private house: photo
Staircase to the attic: the dimensions of the structure allow efficient use of space. Under the stairs there is a built-in kitchenette and a library.
Compact stairs to the attic, installed in the corner - the best option for small spaces.
Metal outdoor staircase to the attic: photo