Natural carpentry oil. What oil is suitable for wood coating. What oils are most in demand

Oil-based formulations are one-stop solution suitable for decorative finishes any wood. They do not create a durable and wear-resistant coating, but they have a wide range of other advantages: excellent adhesion, ease of application, antiseptic protection, and environmental friendliness. Wood treatment with oil does not create a film on the surface of the product, it allows you to emphasize natural beauty the texture of the material and tactilely feel its texture.

A simple application technology avoids streaks, smudges, brush marks and other defects. If necessary, the finish can be easily removed and updated. As a rule, oil is used for wooden objects that are not subject to intense abrasion and moisture.

What oils are most in demand?

Linseed oil – characterized by ease of application, deep penetration into the wood structure, high resistance to impacts external environment. The main disadvantage is the long drying process (up to 3 days). Processing of large-pored wood with linseed oil is carried out in several layers.

Drying oil This is boiled linseed oil. Due to the presence of desiccants in its composition - catalysts that accelerate drying, the polymerization process takes no more than a day, which makes this species finishes are much more practical.

Tung oil , obtained from the seeds of the Chinese tung tree, effectively emphasizes the texture of wood and forms a wear-resistant matte finish. The drying process takes about 24 hours. If linseed oil is more suitable for restoring old surfaces, then the use of tung oil is more appropriate when finishing new products.

Danish oil – finishing composition based on natural vegetable oils with the addition of resins and absorbent substances. Wood treatment with Danish oil allows you to emphasize its natural texture and create a durable matte finish. Drying time: 4-12 hours depending on the characteristics of the composition.

teak oil - a mixture of natural oils, resins and absorbent components. Finishing the wood with teak oil provides a durable decorative finish with a glossy effect. The drying process takes 4-6 hours, depending on the specific composition.

What is dry oil residue?

Percentage of dry oil residue - important characteristic, which determines the features of the finishing composition. Dry residue is understood as the percentage of non-volatile substances in the oil - these are various hardening additives, waxes, inclusions that improve absorption, etc. The higher the percentage of dry residue of the product, the better the covering ability it has. Accordingly, an oil with a high solids content requires fewer layers of application. At the same time, the process of drying (polymerization) of such compositions takes more time.

How to properly prepare the surface?

Before applying the finishing composition, the surface of the wood is ground using abrasives of various grain sizes:

wood with an open structure (oak, etc.) - coarse abrasives P150-P180;
wood with a closed structure (maple, beech, etc.) - fine-grained abrasives P180-P240.

The sanded surface is dusted with a damp lint-free cloth. When applying the finish to oily woods (iroko, teak, etc.), it is recommended to additionally wipe the surface with white spirit.

How to treat wood with oil: general principles

The oil is applied to the prepared and dried surface with a swab or brush, followed by rubbing. Evenly distributing a plentiful amount of oil on a wooden surface, it must be allowed to soak (about 15 minutes), then wipe the excess composition along the fibers using a swab. Otherwise, the surface will be glossy, sticky, with possible staining.

Spread the oil evenly to avoid spotting. Edges and ends should be treated first, because. due to the capillary effect, they absorb the finishing composition more intensively. In multi-layer processing, each new layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried, with preliminary grinding with a fine-grained abrasive.

Optimum temperature for wood treatment with oil 15-25°С. At values below 10°C and high humidity it is better to temporarily refuse work.

Professional intricacies of oil application

If stains form on the surface, increase the amount of oil applied.

To give the composition a more liquid consistency, necessary for even distribution over the surface, place the container of oil in hot water. Avoid contact with open flames.

Oil should not be applied under direct sun exposure, as it will absorb too quickly, which in turn will make re-treatment more difficult.

Use a special dispenser to impregnate the surface - a simple and ergonomic device that promotes uniform application and economical consumption of the composition.

How does the oil lay on the stain?

Oil and stain - not the best, but quite acceptable combination. Any stain impairs the absorbency of subsequent compositions, because. partially fills the pores. In combination with oils, it is allowed to use only stain on water based. At the same time, practice shows that tinting pastes for tinting oils are a more effective alternative to stain in this case.

How long does it take for oil to dry?

linseed oil - 2-3 days;
linseed drying oil - 24 hours;
tung oil - 24 hours;
polyurethane oil varnish-12 o'clock;
Danish oil - 4-12 hours;
teak oil - 4-6 tsp.

Since oils harden (polymerize) during oxidation, reacting with oxygen, products must be dried in a room with constant air circulation.

What you need to know about the risks of spontaneous combustion?

Reacting with oxygen, oils oxidize. This process accompanied by heating, which can provoke spontaneous combustion of cleaning cloths and other items used in the course of work. Therefore, never leave oil-soaked rags rolled up: dry them unfolded outside and only then dispose of them. All items and materials (sanding felt, dispenser, sponges, etc.) that have come into contact with oil should be stored in a sealed metal container.

The secrets of wood processing are passed on from generation to generation by craftsmen, for example, furniture makers and manufacturers musical instruments they know several ways to protect wood, which have been around for many years: wood treatment with linseed oil, wax, oil and varnish. All three materials require a carefully prepared surface. A tree that is pre-sanded and tarred. Sanding paper with granules is used for grinding by hand. different sizes if you work with a grinder, then you will need grinding wheels with different grain sizes.

First, grind with coarse-grained devices, and then the size of the granules should decrease. Well polished wood conifers it is necessary to remove the resin so that the resin that comes out does not spoil the surface during subsequent manipulations. Wood processing technology allows the use of alcohol, white spirit, acetone, gasoline, turpentine or nitro solvents. In cases of serious tarring, this part of the surface is cut out, and another piece of wood is glued in its place. In addition, alkali resins are well removed, which are applied hot to the wood, and then washed off and treated with a wooden surface. acetic acid, dissolved in water in a ratio of 1/50, to remove residual alkaline solutions. Once the wood surfaces have been sanded and deresined, they must dry before you can further coat them with protective compounds.

Traditional ways of protecting wood Waxing by hand Waxing by hand Waxing technology has changed little in hundreds of years. Manual processing waxing is done using a cloth, which takes a piece of wax and rubs it into a wooden surface, for a similar technique, soft types wax. Hard wax is heated in a water bath and applied to the wood with a brush. For waxing furniture, the first method is used, in all other cases, the second is used. Oil treatment applied to outdoor and internal works. No one uses pure oil; drying oil is made from it.

Lacquering is one of the final decorative coatings wood, but at the same time, the varnish performs a certain protective function: Firstly, it protects the surface from scratches and chips. Secondly, it fills the pores and prevents the development of any microorganisms in them. Thirdly, it preserves the aesthetic appearance of the tree for a long time.

Other options for protecting wood Wooden structures can suffer not only from bark beetle or mold, but also from fire. In order to reduce the risk of accidental fires from a spark flying out of the oven or a short circuit in the electrical wiring, wooden details are treated with special protective impregnations - flame retardants. Fire-retardant treatment allows you to apply any varnishes or paints to the tree after drying.

To apply such impregnations, the wood must be dry and clean, any stains, as well as old coatings, must first be removed. Issued different kinds flame retardant impregnations, which give the treated surfaces 1 or 2 class of fire resistance. The compositions are applied with the help of brushes, spray guns, and if the structure can be disassembled, then individual parts can be soaked in impregnation baths.

To protect against water, there are also their own ways of processing wood. For example, coating with any varnish or paint will protect wooden structures from decay, but there are also special water-repellent impregnations- azure. What it is? These are glazing compositions that combine impregnation and transparent varnish, but, unlike the latter, do not leave a hard surface layer, but form an elastic film of a matte, semi-matte or semi-gloss texture. Azures are water-based, oil-based, white spirit, the former are more often used indoors, the latter are suitable for outdoor use. To change the shade, tinting compounds are added to the azure. In addition to the base and shade, azure is also divided by density, in order to beautifully cover vertical wooden surfaces, it is better to take azure high density- thixotropic, because it will not sag.

Varnish or oil - which coating parquet board more practical to use?
The topic of this article did not come about by accident. Our customers are becoming more and more knowledgeable about "sexual matters", and many already know that there is not only varnish for parquet flooring. There is also oil treatment, which has significant advantages over polymer coatings.

Now we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Oil treatment of wood has been considered traditional for many centuries, and only in the 20th and current 21st centuries has it been unfairly forgotten. In Moscow and other European capitals, there are a lot of buildings and objects where parquet, treated with oil, is still lying, the age of which is over 200, and sometimes even 300 years. Is this possible with lacquered parquet? No, history has no such data. The majesty of time itself confirms that wood treated with oil becomes more resistant to mechanical damage and harder. To make it clearer to you, let's remember about exotic woods such as merbau, jatoba, campas. These rocks contain a large number of oil substances, and nature did this so that during the dry summer, the wood does not dry out, giving off moisture. Merbau, jatoba, kempas and wenge (exotic oil-bearing species) have wood hardness 50% higher than that of the hardest European species - oak. By treating wood with oil instead of varnish, you make it harder and much less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. This is just a small practical confirmation that oiled wood has dramatically better characteristics than varnished wood.

Now consider practical examples the behavior of a solid or parquet board under oil in the conditions of modern operation.

The varnished board is strictly forbidden to be used in rooms where the temperature drops below 15 degrees. But the board under oil is not afraid of these unfavorable conditions. Why is this happening?

Photo wood oil treatment

Lacquer is polymer film, which is applied to upper part wood without penetrating into its pores. Imagine polish on a woman's nails - the analogy is 100 percent: the polish protects the surface of the nail and makes it more aesthetic. This is where the benefits end. The nail does not breathe under the varnish, and after a while, it needs to be allowed to recover. The floor covering under the varnish also does not breathe. With changes in humidity and temperature in the room, the tree, trying to acquire the same humidity characteristics as the room, begins to expand and contract: all this happens directly under the varnish itself. That is why the cracking of a parquet board under varnish is significantly higher than that of a board under oil. The deformation of the upper layer of varnish due to the fact that the lower layer of wood is movable occurs quite quickly. It is recommended to restore the parquet board under varnish every 10 years. To do this, you need to take out all the furniture from the room, sand the board by removing old varnish and apply a new one.

The situation is completely different with oil-coated wood. Given the fact that the oil is deeply absorbed into the pores and does not prevent the entire board from breathing, there is almost no splitting. The board, without any tension whatsoever, moves freely and changes its shape. Oil treatment protects the board from moisture and can be washed with a damp cloth without fear of destroying the top layer. Feel free to use it in the kitchen, hallway and other "wet" areas. A tree under oil practically does not require restoration, it just needs care. To do this, acquiring parquet or massive board under oil, get a care product. A bottle of such a product costs no more than 800 rubles and it lasts for a very long time: 1.5-2 years. Add one capful of product to a bucket of water, and your flooring will be "restored" every cleaning. Each such cleaning will refresh your floors, making them more and more attractive each time.

Well, what if we ruined our board by spilling a bottle of red wine on it? - you ask. Nothing terrible will happen if you do not leave the wine to dry, but immediately remove it. Well, what if the unforeseen happened, and the wine dried up? In this case, visit the nearest store with parquet chemistry, purchase 2 bottles of special agents: one will clean the stain, the second will restore the appearance. And note that for restoration you do not need to scrape and change the entire floor in the room: this can be done locally! Moreover, many oil flooring companies have special teams that will come and do all the work themselves at your call. Is there such a service for varnished parquet board manufacturers? No, he is missing.

And the last question that may confuse you. Dust, you say. Oil absorbs dust. Yes exactly. The oil absorbs the dust and the care product removes the dust. And it cannot be otherwise. On any floor covering, dust must be removed either with a vacuum cleaner or with a wet cleaning.

Do not forget also that oil coating is the most environmentally friendly and natural: no acids, formaldehydes and polymers that are in varnish. American therapists also advise using such floors at home, as the oil retains the natural texture of wood and the surface acquires a gentle silk effect.

Features of the correct waxing of wood

It is important to emphasize the texture of wood with an appropriate finish. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on a different basis. They have their advantages, but there are also significant drawbacks, the main of which is unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.

Natural bees or vegetable wax
1) harmless to health,
2) emphasizes the beauty and shows the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, besides it breathes, unlike varnishing,
4) the tree acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes,
5) has an excellent smell.
Wood must be impregnated before waxing. The simplest impregnation- vegetable oil, better of course linseed. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then polished.

On the basis of linseed oil, impregnating compositions on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal) are often prepared. The tannins contained in the plants pass into the oil and, when processed, strengthen its surface layers.

mint oil

Here is a recipe for peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:

100 g of dried chopped mint leaves are poured into a glass container, pour 0.5 l vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks in a dark place. Then it is filtered and used.

After the tree is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is made from wax and turpentine in a 2:1 ratio, or oil and wax in a 2:1 ratio (this is for food products). Here is another recipe for how to make wax mastic:
We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of purified turpentine.

In a water bath, melt the wax in an enameled container, add rosin. After the wax dissolves, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives extra flavor. Remove everything from the fire, pour into tin can and let the mixture cool down. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:

She rubs the product and rubs it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.

Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.

In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax is often used, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it releases a wax that coats the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.

Carnauba wax has a higher melting point and is therefore more stable than bees. But also 3 times more expensive.

Advice:

I have tried using a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil for waxing.
We heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.

Proportions:

Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a "fat" tint.

Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. How more oil- the more creamy the mastic will turn out. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we climb into the jar with a cloth and, having collected a little mastic, we polish the product on the machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles (sour cream climbs everywhere).

Mastic based on "Wax-oil" - relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause an allergy. I personally know a person with an allergy to linseed oil :)

But it should be recognized that the wax and oil components of the mastic are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with products.
Try mixing the wax with other oils - maybe you like something more.

Going further - you can infuse the oil before mixing on the roots and herbs (infuse for about 2 weeks).
For the sake of interest, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when a linden is covered with such a mastic, a gentle juniper smell comes from it (a familiar carpenter was puzzled at first :)). Also various herbs and roots often change the shade of the coated product - in general, an unlimited springboard for creativity.

Linseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. Oil that is sold in art salons - I do not recommend using it for food products.
I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market". Once I bought wax in the market (in the form of molds) - something is not right.

Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply wax to a rotating product - rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, woolen or linen

Linseed oil

Also in Ancient Russia craftsmen began to impregnate the wood with oil in order to improve its properties. With the help of linseed oil, they impregnated wooden spoons, thereby extending service life. And today, wood impregnation oil is one of the the best means such as lacquer.

There is finishing and primary processing of wood. During the primary treatment, the tree is impregnated with an antiseptic, which protects it from the occurrence of microorganisms that can have a destructive effect. Finishing impregnation is used with varnishes, oils or glazing agents. It is when finishing that it is extremely important to choose the right tool so that in the future your building can stand as long as possible. Oil for wood, especially linseed, is able to perfectly penetrate the inside of the logs, giving them a satin, beautiful sheen, with its help you can even get the “antique effect”. Often, special preparations are also added to wood oil that can protect it from bad weather and enhance the properties of wood.

The oil is recommended to be used during finishing wooden log cabins, which are used for the construction of a bath. In this case, preparations containing oil as their basis are practically indispensable, since such a tree will have to literally come into contact with the human body. The composition of oils intended for steam bath treatment includes natural resins and linseed oil, as well as pine turpentine. On the floor, this oil is able to form a durable thin layer that is not afraid of human sweat, water and high temperatures. Oil consumption for such impregnation is approximately 10 square meters per liter.

In addition, this colorless linseed oil is great for processing shelves and everything. bath room generally. Before starting wood processing, it is necessary to make sure that the humidity in the room is 80%, and the humidity of the wood is not more than 21%. The tree must be dry, cleaned in advance of dirt, fungi and mold. If necessary, you can make a primer on the surface that you are going to process. If the wood has previously been varnished or painted, then oil cannot be used.

Before processing, linseed oil must be thoroughly mixed, and it must not be diluted with water. Apply it to the wood carefully, using a simple cloth or brush. The oil that has not been absorbed into the wood should be removed. The oil is applied to the wood in two layers. The oil dries rather slowly, about a week, while the drying period directly depends on the quality of the treated wood and weather conditions.

Wood shavings and brushes, rags that have come into contact with linseed oil should be kept in a bucket of water, as spontaneous combustion is possible. It is best to destroy them immediately after impregnation is completed. The remains of linseed oil must not be poured into the ground, natural reservoirs and sewers.

Purpose: Tar oil is intended for processing external wooden surfaces (wooden facades, gazebos, terraces, wooden garden furniture, fences, stairs)

Tar oil due to the content of pine turpentine, it penetrates deep into the wood, linseed oil does not allow the composition to "come out of the wood" under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, and raw natural birch tar is the most powerful natural antiseptic !!!
Properties:

oil is a pure natural product

Gives wood water-repellent properties.

Penetrates deep into the structure of the wood, forms a protective layer and enhances the natural pattern and tone of the wood surface.

Prevents the formation of mold, mildew and other biological destruction. Highly effective antiseptic.

Processing is easy and fast.

The treated surface is abrasion resistant.

Suitable for processing any type of wood.

Does not change the natural color of wood, emphasizing its natural texture.

Wayapplications: Stir the oil thoroughly before applying. Thoroughly clean the treated surfaces from dust and dirt. Remove old coating, if necessary sand the surface and dry. The optimum air temperature when applying the composition is + 15º C, relative humidity air less than 80%. The oil must be applied in a thin layer with a brush, carefully rubbing in the direction of the wood fibers. Remove excess oil that has not been absorbed from the surface with a rag.

Drying time: 24 hours.

Precautionary measures: Dispose of oil-soaked cloth or rags as household waste. Oil that has come into contact with skin and clothing can be washed off with warm soapy water.

Consumption: 100-150 g/m² for a single coat.

Compound: natural linseed oil, pine turpentine, natural tar

Transportation and storage: oil is stored in tightly closed containers in a dry and cool or cold place. Not afraid of freezing. At negative temperatures does not lose its properties.

Shelf life: 5 years from date of manufacture.

Untreated wood has its own unique beauty and gives the furniture a natural natural look. To bring out the grain of the wood and give it desired color wood stain is used. But the wooden surface needs protection from external conditions such as the influence of moisture and temperature, physical exercise, abrasion and pollution. For this purpose, the wood is treated with oil, wax or varnish. Recently, solvent-based varnishes have become very popular. This is due fast time drying of varnish and high gloss of the created film. Unlike varnish, oil does not just create a thin hard layer, but completely impregnates the wood, leaving the pores open. In terms of its properties, wood oil is not inferior to varnish - it perfectly protects the surface from abrasion and contamination. However, to restore paintwork it needs to be completely removed and reapplied. When restoring a surface treated with oil or wax, it is enough to remove the coating only partially and reapply.
Wood oil is a coating that impregnates wood and makes it resistant to various kinds impact. Particularly suitable for porous rocks. The material, as a rule, does not change the color of the treated surface, but it can give the wood various degrees shine. Wood oil from the Italian company Borma Wachs is used both indoors and outdoors. The surface treated by him can be covered with wax - most suitable option liquid beeswax for furniture Holzwachs Fluid and self-polishing water-based parquet wax Parwachs.
As a rule, wood oil is applied with a wide brush, wood oil treatment is carried out on a cleaned and sanded surface. The material is applied in two or three layers, oil residues between layers are removed with a rag or soft cloth.

In our Online store You can buy the following types of wood oils from an Italian company Borma Watches:

1. Oil coating for floors and parquet GRUNDIEROL.

It is a ready-to-use mixture of natural oils and resins that guarantee long-term protection for all kinds of wooden surfaces. The oil can be used as a base for further waxing. The material is not oily, has a highscratch resistance, applied tosanded surface, recommended for indoor use.

2. Oil for parquet Parquet Oil.

The oil is intended for application on wooden floors, doors, frames, as well as other wood products. Particularly suitable for porous rocks. It has gloss levels of 10%, 30%, 60%, 90%. Does not contain formaldehyde. Recommended for use before applying PARWACHS self-polishing water-based parquet wax.

3. Wax based oil finish.

Blend of oils and waxes High Quality for application on all types of untreated wooden surfaces. The oil-treated surface combines increased softness with optimum water resistance. The material is easy to apply and can be used on all kinds of oiled surfaces.

4. Oil coating for furniture Holzol.

It is a ready-to-use blend of exotic oils. It is easy to apply, after drying it forms a smooth and soft to the touch non-oily film.

5. Restoration oil. Repair oil for furniture.

A wax-based oil designed to restore and preserve appearance antique furniture. The material restores old varnish coatings, hides scratches and scuffs. Safe for health, easy to apply, odorless.

6. Oil for furniture with increased hardness.

A blend of high quality oils for painting raw wood surfaces. The oil-treated surface combines increased hardness with optimum water resistance. The material is easy to apply and can be used on all kinds of oiled surfaces.

7. teak oil. (Teak oil)

Teak oil is a peel-resistant natural oil coating. An easy-to-apply one-component mixture penetrates well into the wood.

9. Tung oil(Tung Oil).

When applied, it gives the surface hardness, high level water resistance, the product does not darken over time as after coating with linseed oil. Oil-treated wood has a slight golden hue. Applied thin layer soft, lint-free cloth. The product is completely natural, does not contain chemical components.

10. Danish outdoor furniture oil. (Danish Oil)

The material is specially designed for processing garden furniture, doors, fences, boats, etc. Its special formula helps preserve the natural beauty of wood. The synthetic resins that make up the oil make it resistant to water and weather conditions. The UV filters which are a part of material keep natural color of a tree. The oil is perfect for painting garden furniture, arbors.

Fundamentals of wood processing

During manufacture, wood is treated with special substances to prolong its service life and prevent the problem of rotting, cracking and fungus. All these actions are referred to the primary phase of wood processing. The second involves surfaces with a special varnish or oil.

Oil differs from varnish in depth of penetration. Varnishing agents when applied create a kind of protective film, which fades over time. Oil is able to penetrate deep into the structure of the product, thoroughly impregnating all wood fibers or other wood components. Also a significant plus of the oil is its ability to change the color of the tree, creating unique shades.

There is a huge selection of oils on the market today. different brands and compositions. But all of them can be divided into 2 large groups, which we will consider in more detail below.

mineral oils

Mineral oil for wood gained its distribution decades ago. With the development of science and technology, new technologies have been created that make it possible to produce artificial materials with given characteristics. Like any other material, a wooden board needs additional processing. Half a century ago, it was popular. Of course, it was not intended for such purposes, but the effect of such processing proved completely different, which made it possible to bring mineral oil for wood to a wide market.

Using wooden products managed to keep original view and eliminate the processes of decay. Mineral oil for wood often raises questions about production technology. It is very important to comply environmental factor in this case. This is why many manufacturers prefer to combine mineral oil with natural oil.

natural oils

This type of impregnation has been used hundreds of years ago. With the introduction innovative technologies artificial refined products became more popular. It took time for a person to realize the benefits that natural oil has in the treatment of wooden surfaces. Also, the determining factor was the high cost of the product, which was gradually solved by borrowing modern technologies production.

The main advantage of natural oil is its vegetable origin. Absence harmful impurities and additives makes its use safe for human health. The most popular are linseed and wood oils. The latter is cheaper, but quality characteristics loses first.

For wood processing is considered the best. Also widely used sunflower and It should be noted that of all types of sunflower dries faster than others. But we should not forget that against the general background, mineral oil for wood dries many times faster, but with natural one you will have to tinker. To somehow solve this problem, the composition of olive, hemp or sunflower oil add chemical components that speed up the drying process.

Application features

Working with oil is quite simple and does not require special skills. You will need a wide brush, cloth napkins, sandpaper. The choice of a particular device depends on the method: rubbing or soaking.

The first one is the most popular. It is applicable in cases where it is necessary to cover a large surface. Wooden plank covered with oil with a brush. For best effect it is recommended to gradually rub the solution with napkins or sandpaper. The procedure is repeated several times, alternating application and waiting for the complete drying of each of the layers.

The second method is more suitable for small parts. They are immersed in a special container filled with oil and soaked for several days. After that, the part must be well sanded.

Oil impregnation is quite simple to use, but indispensable for finishing works. It will help to keep the service life wooden structure. The main thing is to take into account all the features. Mineral wood oil may contain toxic substances, but the drying time is minimal. And environmentally friendly, but it will take more than one hour of drying.

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