Rust on lilies what to do. Brown spots on lilies

The graceful grace of lilies was appreciated by beauty lovers even before the beginning of our era. Since then, it has become a permanent decoration flower arrangements and the addition of holiday attire. Today, the lily also continues to be admired and absent. blue tint in her color scheme is by no means considered a disadvantage. Like the rest of the bulbs, it is also loved for its simple planting method and undemanding care, while often forgetting about the features of agricultural technology of such flowers. Meanwhile, it is precisely the observance of the conditions for planting and caring for lilies that makes it possible to receive full-fledged healthy flowering from them.

The probability of survival of a lily on garden plot and its resistance to diseases directly depends on the geographical origin of the plant (European, Caucasian, Asian or North American). It is obvious that non-hardy species from tropical regions (long-flowered, Japanese, Philippine) in the conditions of the northern climate will find it difficult to survive frosts, and even if they are sheltered for the winter, they will quickly die due to insufficient air humidity. In the southern conditions of the seaside hot climate, lilies of East Asian origin (Daurian, tiger and their hybrids) will develop poorly. The acidity of the soil for certain species is also associated with the origin of plants: slightly acidic soil is optimal for Asian species and hybrids, and slightly alkaline or neutral for European, Caucasian and North American. A lily planted in unsuitable agro-climatic conditions grows weakened, is more often affected by pathogenic fungi and pests, gets sick longer and dies quickly.

On unsuitable strongly alkaline soils, lilies develop chlorosis: on the leaves between the veins appear yellow spots. This phenomenon can also be observed during the period of frequent rains, when most of the trace elements are washed out of the soil. With the manifestation of chlorosis, it is recommended to apply under lilies inkstone until the healthy color of the plants is fully restored, or add peat and sawdust of coniferous species to the soil for acidification.

Defeat lilies spring frosts also looks like a manifestation of the disease: the outer layer of cells on young leaves exfoliates, they thicken, bend and become covered with bubbles. Frozen lilies do not die, but they do not form buds in current year. As a preventive measure against freezing, it is recommended to carry out high hilling of plants with earth in case of danger of return frosts.

Cases are not diseases dormant bulb” and “flattened thickened stem”. In the first case, a practically healthy bulb may not show signs of development for a whole year, and in the second case, in a lily, with enough good care several shoots grow together and the plant looks unnatural. Such disorders, however, can be observed in lilies for only one year, in the future they usually develop.

In thickened plantings and with prolonged (more than 3 - 5 years) growing lilies in one place, the likelihood of damage increases fungal diseases. The most famous of them are:

Botris (gray rot). The disease affects the leaves, stems and buds of lilies in damp cool weather and when improper watering when the moisture on them does not have time to dry before night. Appearing on the lower leaves brown spots grow rapidly and merge into large plots brown mucous tissue covered with a gray coating. The death of lily stalks diseased with botrys can occur in a matter of days, but timely protective measures allow you to save the bulbs and grow from them on next year healthy plants. The fungus overwinters on the affected plant debris and, with severe damage, in the bulbs.

Ways to fight. For prevention, it is recommended:

Bulbs before planting 30 - 60 min. pickle in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD (1%);
- change the place of planting lilies every 3 - 5 years;
- observe the sparsity of landings;
- watering to carry out under the root and only in the morning.

During a forced landing in the same place upper layer soils are partially replaced or treated with fungicides ("Oksihom", "Hom"). In early spring on seedlings, preventive spraying of lilies is carried out with solutions of copper sulfate (0.5%), Bordeaux mixture (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%). If a disease is detected, spraying is carried out every 10 days, alternating preparations, the affected parts of the plants are removed from the site and burned. During the rainy period, the mass death of flowers can be prevented by building a protective film canopy over the lilies.

Fusarium. The disease affects lily bulbs in places of mechanical damage and most noticeably manifests itself during their storage: yellow-brown spots form at the attachment points of scales, soft rot areas grow and the bulb disintegrates. Outwardly, the beginning of the defeat of the lily by Fusarium can be determined by the yellowing and drying of the lower leaves on the stems. Active spread of the disease is observed in damp hot weather. The spores of the fungus remain in the soil for about 3 years.

Ways to fight. Slightly affected bulbs are freed from the affected scales, pickled with foundationazole (0.2%) for 30-40 minutes. and landed in a new place, severely affected - removed from the site and destroyed. The soil before planting (for 2 - 3 weeks) is disinfected with formalin (250 ml of a 40% solution is used per 10 liters of water to treat 1 cubic meter of land). Soil treatment and early spring spraying with foundationazole (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistine (0.05%) is carried out with precautions, since the drugs are toxic.

Rust. The disease affects the leaves, stems and bulbs of lilies, in which spores of the fungus can overwinter. Small colorless spots appearing on the leaves gradually grow and turn yellow - fungus spores form in them. Leaves and stems dry up, but dark brown growths remain on them, from which spores are released in spring and infect new plants.

Ways to fight. For the purposes of prevention, frequent potassium-phosphorus top dressing of lilies and pre-planting treatment of bulbs are recommended. On weakly infected plants, the affected parts should be removed and destroyed; in case of severe damage, the lilies are removed from the site along with the bulbs. Early in the spring, preventive spraying is carried out on seedlings ( Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride), and if signs of the disease are detected, ditan M-45 (1%), polycarbacin (0.3%), cineb (0.5%) with an adhesive.

sclerocial rot. The first sign of the manifestation of the disease is the uneven shoots of lilies in the spring. When checking bulbs that are lagging behind in growth, a thick white felt coating can be found at the neck or on the bottom. In the future, the disease leads to the defeat and death of the roots and emerging leaves. Favorable for the fungus are conditions of high humidity at temperatures up to 13 ° C. With an increase in temperature, the active spread of the disease stops.

Ways to fight. Similar to the methods of dealing with botrys and fusarium: compliance with the recommended planting density, pre-plant dressing of the bulbs and disinfection of the soil before planting. Sick plants along with the soil should be removed, the foci of infection should be covered with ash or bleach. It is not recommended to plant lilies after bulbous ones, which are also prone to sclerocial rot (daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli).

root rot. The disease affects the roots of the bulbs, they are covered with small brown spots. Plants lag behind in growth, lose buds. The onset of the disease can be identified by yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which gradually leads to the drying of the entire stem.

Ways to fight:

Careful selection of planting material;
- obligatory disinfection of the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%) and dressing of bulbs (Fundazol, TMTD) before planting;
- removal of the affected parts of plants from the site and their destruction.

Bacterial (soft) rot. It affects plants from early spring: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow and cause rotting and abscission of leaves and peduncles. During storage, rotting depressed spots with an unpleasant odor are found on the bulbs.

Ways to fight:

Inspection and destruction of infected planting material during storage;
- pre-planting processing of bulbs and soil;
- preventive spraying in early spring, and if a disease is detected, spraying with fungicides every 10 days.

Carrying out preventive measures (disinfection of the storage, selection and processing of planting material, reduction of soil moisture, change of site, thinning of plantings), one can successfully fight fungal diseases, which cannot be said about viral diseases. Unfortunately, viral diseases are difficult to diagnose and practically untreatable. They are spread by pests and sap through undisinfected garden tools. Viral diseases manifest themselves in different ways: the color and shape of the flowers change, the leaves curl, the stems are bent, the plants look oppressed and their decorative qualities get worse. Lilies affected by viruses are dug up with bulbs as soon as possible and destroyed outside the site, otherwise the spread of the disease can lead to the loss of all specimens. The most common viral diseases are:

variegation virus. The disease can be transmitted from tulips. A sign of damage is a spotty color of flowers that is not characteristic of the variety. The disease is carried by aphids and with garden tools.

rosette disease. Caused by a complex of viruses. In the affected lily, the growth of the flowering shoot is sharply delayed, the stem is flattened and deformed, the leaves are formed curved and chlorotic, the plant gradually withers and stops growing. Carrier - aphid.

Mosaic. Signs of the disease are often confused with the symptoms of botrys: pale gray oblong stripes and spots appear on the leaves. An infected lily may bloom for several years and produce healthy, virus-free seeds, but over time it will still die. The disease is tolerated by aphids and with garden tools.

Ways to fight. In order to prevent against viral diseases, lilies should be regularly inspected and specimens with suspicious color changes in flowers or leaves should be removed. For cutting, it is recommended to use a set of blades (one blade per inflorescence), which is disinfected immediately after cutting in boiling water or alcohol. To control disease vectors (aphids), lilies should be periodically sprayed with karbofos (0.3%) or ragor (0.2%).

Care for lilies after flowering consists in cutting them and sheltering for the winter or digging up the bulbs and their proper storage. In early autumn, a survey of stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.

When diseases are detected, flowers are treated. In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases, during the year the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding of lilies.

At the end of summer, lilies, with a natural lifestyle, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots die off. garden lilies gotta get ready for winter.

Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), covered with fallen leaves in autumn. Oriental hybrids lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid wetting the bulbs and roots during the spring snowmelt, plantings are covered with plastic wrap.

Trumpet and Orleans hybrids, some other lilies do not tolerate cold winter in middle lane. Their bulbs must be dug up. All lilies require repotting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and stored.

When the lilies are dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately cleaned in a cool place. If the roots of the bulb dry out, then the flower will not sprout when planting. If the roots lie under sunbeams a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb water.

The bulbs with roots removed from the ground must be thoroughly washed and treated in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often this plastic bag with perforations. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying and stored all winter at a temperature of 5 ° C.

Treatment and prevention of lilies from diseases and pests after flowering

Lilies, like other flowers, are susceptible to various diseases. Caring for lilies after flowering includes their cure for dangerous diseases that a flower could get sick in summer or early autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, only the external manifestations of the disease can indicate the presence of ill health.

If you notice strange pigmentation, any damage to the stem, leaves or flowers, by the fall, the bulbs of any kind of lilies are not left in the ground. Depending on the symptoms of the disease, after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are taken.

Lily diseases that need to be treated after flowering:

Botrytis - gray rot.

Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.

Mosaic is a viral disease.

Botrytis - gray rot

The appearance of slightly noticeable spots of a yellow tint, spreading along the lower part of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray spots, fluffy in texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon moving to the stems and flower heads.

Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely line all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire aerial part of the plant is affected. Leaves and stem become covered with brown spots, and then fall off.

Prevention of gray rot carried out immediately after the flowering of lilies.

The fungus is especially active in a humid environment.

The most favorable environment- wet plants that do not have time to dry before night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily spreads spores of fungi that cause gray rot.

From strong wind or hypothermia, lilies get stressed, their immunity decreases, as a result of which the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.

Heavy showers begin in autumn, at a time when the lilies have already faded. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand for a while already without flowers, so that the bulb gets stronger before next landing. You can protect lilies after flowering from the fungus by adhering to traditional preventive methods.

Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass- it is enough to drive four pegs along the edges of the flower beds with lilies. Pull plastic wrap over the pegs with a slight slope to one side. The precipitation will not accumulate on the flowers and will not be able to provoke the appearance of the fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a shelter, it passes water well. Themselves, if necessary, water the lilies only under the root in the morning.

If the plants are already sick, you should immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or its entire aerial part. Affected vegetation must be burned or disposed of in another way. The main thing is that the fungus, the spores of which are always present on the affected plants, does not get into the ground. In the ground, he will wait out the winter, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.

In case of disease, a white saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. In the absence of treatment, elevated and underground part plants are covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from the disease. It is necessary to thoroughly wash the tubers with roots running water and soak them in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.

Fusarium - bacterial soft rot

If the bulbs are slightly damaged or the infection is not yet visible, but there is a suspicion of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and coal in a 1: 1 ratio.

Soft rot occurs when the bulb is damaged. Most often it comes from improper storage. The best prevention- gentle handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storing at the optimum temperature. A lily becomes ill with Fusarium if, after digging, it has not been thoroughly dried.

Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Methods for protecting bulbs from high humidity on the street - the construction of a frame covered plastic wrap. Some lily hybrids, such as Asiatic and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second decade of August, since it is very difficult to keep them from moisture.

Mosaic

Along the edges of the leaves of lilies, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white stains appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white stains form on them. Soon the entire aerial part of the flower rots and dies. The disease is caused by aphids, mites and the ingress of viruses into the lily juice into the stem through secateurs.

There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be followed. The stem of the lily is always cut before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb and roots are removed. To trim the stem, you need to use secateurs with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after cutting each flower and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.

Slightly but noticeably drooping, sluggish plants, even without characteristic leaf spots, may already be infected. viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully, if not one of the symptoms is revealed, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).

Careful prevention of plants is necessary, as mites and aphids multiply very quickly. In spring, they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can get sick with a viral disease.

Top dressing and fertilizers for domestic lilies

It is useful for lilies to apply mineral fertilizers. In the spring, fertilizing with the addition of nitrogen is applied:

ammonium nitrate 1 tsp per 1 m²;

nitroammophoska 1 Matchbox to a bucket of water.

Liquid complex fertilizers- suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients. For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potash top dressing - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, in dry form 15-25 g per 1 m².

In summer it is recommended:

wood ash 5-6 times per season;

mullein infusion.

Nitrogen-free are useful in autumn mineral fertilizers mix from a solution of 30-40 g of superphosphate with 15-20 g of potassium salt.

Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring benefits, but cause the development of fungal diseases.

As a preventive measure against diseases, domestic lilies should be sprinkled with Bordeaux liquid (1%) every 3 years.

Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes a film. Frost-resistant, repotting, or diseased lilies are also pruned and dug up. Each dug bulb is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to preserve planting material in a good condition.

For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods, add fertilizers to the soil.

Proper care of lilies will help keep beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.

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If brown spots appear on the leaves of the lily, then the plant suffers from gray rot. How to deal with it?

Gray rot especially often develops in climatic zones with moderate temperature and large quantity precipitation. Most often, she suffers from perennial flower crops (lilies, peonies, tulips) in open ground. Pathogenic infection accumulates in the soil, roots, bulbs, and especially on the aerial parts of the plant during long-term cultivation in one place. In summer and spring, the infection spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones through water and air. Spores during the growing season scatter and fall on healthy plants, settle on the soil and weeds. Mycelium and spores overwinter on plant debris in the soil and in the basal rosette of leaves. Optimum temperature for their development - 16-21 ° С.

Control measures

• Plant only healthy bulbs in an open, well-ventilated, sunny area.
• Do not overfeed with manure and nitrogen fertilizers- this reduces the resistance of plants to diseases.
• Kill weeds and pests that weaken plants.
• Affected parts of plants, without waiting for the end of the growing season, cut and burn.
• In no case do not bury them with plant debris. If there is an infection on the bulb site, before planting, pickle in a fungicide solution (Topsin-M - 0.2%; Fundazol - 0.2%; Bordeaux liquid - 1%; copper oxychloride - 0.5%; Bayleton - 0.1%, Azofos - 2%). You can also shed the soil around the lilies with a solution of Maxim. It is effective against many fungal diseases, incl. gray rot. The fungicide kills the infection around and on the surface of lily bulbs.
• But since the infection of stems, leaves and buds occurs mainly on the surface, it is more effective to spray the above-ground part of the plants 2-3 times (with an interval of 16-20 days) with fungicide solutions before the disease and in case of its signs (specks on the leaves).

Often, gray rot affects the entire plant: leaves, buds, stems, flowers and seed pods, sometimes bulbs. First, dark brown spots appear, later turning pale in the center. On the leaves, they become transparent with darker, watery edges. The spots increase in size, merge, cover all the leaves and cause them to die. When the bulbs are damaged, the same spots appear on the upper lobules. When the stem is damaged, the entire upstream part of the plant turns brown and dries out. Sick buds do not open, turn brown. All diseased parts of plants in wet weather are covered with sporulation of the fungus.

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Nutritious bulbs of lilies are very fond of not only rodents, but also smaller pests. In addition, succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.

To cure a lily, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.

Fungal diseases of lilies

Lily is affected by fungal infections that occur in many flower crops. Contributes to the spread of rot high humidity, improper care, lack of preventive measures.

Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly covers all parts of the flower.

signs

The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which in the process of development are converted into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as with sudden changes in temperature. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.

Control measures

It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen overwinters in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of the TMTD disinfectant or in a 0.25-0.5% suspension of Fundazol. When the first signs of the disease occur, the flowers are treated once every 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or another fungicide (Fundazol, Hom, Oksikh).

Fusarium

Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of the lily bulb. A plant that develops normally during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, application organic fertilizers containing spores of the fungus.

signs

Fungal infection begins at the bottom of the bulb. In the place where the scales are attached to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to supra-bulbous roots that are not damaged by the fungus. However, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.

Control measures

Disinfect the soil blue vitriol and formalin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Spray plantings every 1-1.5 weeks with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin. It is also possible to carry out treatments with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.

Phytium is a disease of lilies that causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of the culture is disrupted: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. The affected lily loses its decorative effect, blooms weakly.

signs

The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.

Control measures

Remove affected plant parts. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.

Blue mold infects bulbs during storage.

signs

White spots of hyphae of the fungus with a greenish coating on the bulbs. When digging up the bulbs, you can see that they have turned yellow, and their roots have died.

Control measures

Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of storage.

Penicillosis

Penicillosis affects all parts of the lilies and provokes their decay.

signs

Bulbs, flowers, stems are covered with green bloom. Sick plants lag behind in growth, form weak flower stalks.

Control measures

Observe storage rules. When the first signs appear, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.

Rust

This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.

signs

The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Red spore pads appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of lilies dry up.

Control measures

Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Zineb and regularly feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Re-plant lilies in the area where the bulbs affected by rust grew, not earlier than after 3 years.

Lily virus diseases

Viral bulbous diseases are spread by insect pests (aphids and thrips) or flower growers themselves through an infected garden tools.

Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses

A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.

signs

Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and annular spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the stem of the lily is deformed and stops growing.

Control measures

Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to combat the carrier of the disease (aphids), spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.

Tulip variegation virus

This virus settles inside the cells of lilies. Most often, aphids from tulips are transferred.

signs

The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, resulting in flowers with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. Sick bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.

Control measures

Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.

rosette disease

The occurrence of this disease in lilies provokes a whole complex of viruses.

signs

Lilies affected by this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.

Control measures

Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and aerial parts of plants.

Lily pests

There are about 15 types of pests that infect lilies. These small insects weaken plants and are carriers of viruses. We list the most dangerous of them.

spider mite

This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. red eggs spider mite can live in the soil for up to 5 years.

signs

Lily leaves curl, the plant itself gradually dries up. On closer inspection, white eggs and adult red spider mites are visible on the leaves.

Control measures

If a pest is found, spray the plants soapy water, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Aktofit, etc.).

Pisk beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)

Bright red beetle-squeaker lays larvae on the leaves of lilies color pink, covered with green-brown mucus, which can deprive plants of almost all leaves.

signs

Visible to the naked eye larvae and adults of the pest.

Control measures

Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).

A lily fly starts inside an unpainted lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done its "work" and pupates in the ground.

signs

Etched pistils and anthers of stamens in flowers.

Control measures

Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).

Medvedka

Medvedka eats roots, bulbs and stems of lilies.

signs

The presence of a bear on the site can be seen from the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages come to the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is the defeat of the bear.

Control measures

Arrange traps for the bear in the ground. For example, manure pits or slate shelters where the insect will crawl to bask and lay eggs. Collected in one place, the bear will be easy to destroy. late autumn you need to dig deep into the ground to destroy the wintering stages of the pest.

Khrushch (May beetle larva)

Like the bear, the beetle larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.

signs

White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. In case of damage, the death of the plant occurs.

Control measures

Dig the soil deeply before planting, select the larvae of the beetle from it by hand.

This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. Young individuals hatch from the eggs, which are introduced into the bulb, causing it to rot.

signs

In late spring - early summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, which hang in flight and make a characteristic murmuring sound. If you notice these pests, chances are they have already laid their larvae in the soil.

Control measures

Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). In autumn, dig the ground, mulch with peat. Before planting the bulbs, powder with Bazudin.

To reduce the number of pests, planting lilies should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, spray plants with insecticides.

We hope that now, if suddenly your lilies begin to "mope", you can easily determine the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease and "declare war" on them in time. Take good care of your plants and don't let them get sick.

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Exist great amount diseases affecting lilies. Let's consider the main ones.

Gray rot, or botrytis (Botrytis elliptica), appears in spring in cool weather when high humidity. Young leaves (affecting from the bottom of the petiole) look like they have been scalded with boiling water. Diseased buds are bent, the stems break, fall. Gray rot also affects wet leaves at the end of summer. The most resistant to the disease are OT and LA hybrids.

Susceptible - white-flowered hybrids. For protection, spray with Bordeaux liquid, copper-containing fungicides or other drugs. At rainy summer you need to spray after 7-10 days on dry leaves.

Fusarium rot(bottom rot, basal rot) affects the bulbs - starting from the bottom, depressed sores and yellow-brown spots appear. Then it falls apart, the roots rot. Plants become infected through the roots and in places of mechanical damage.

Fusarium signs- yellowing of the lower leaves and the gradual drying of the whole plant. During the winter or during storage, the infected bulb dies. Illness contributes heat, waterlogging of the soil and the introduction of non-rotted organic matter.

Severely affected plants are dug up and destroyed. It is effective to treat the bulbs 1-2 days before planting with a 0.2% suspension of Topsin-M or Fundazol (Benlat), a 0.1% Tecto emulsion for 30 minutes. In the spring, fluffy lime is scattered over the surface of the soil.

Sclerotial rot (fungi of the genus Sclerotium) cause of low plant growth and small leaves with sufficient soil fertility and good nutrition. It can only be found when digging bulbs. Bulbs of affected plants rot. The disease, the development of which is promoted by increased humidity and acidity of the soil, manifests itself in foci. Weakly affected bulbs are kept in a solution of copper-containing preparations and transplanted to a new place. You can not thicken the landing.

Phytium, or root rot(fungi of the genus Phytium),- plants lag behind in growth, leaves become smaller, buds fall off or do not form, tops of leaves turn yellow. The bulb is healthy, and the roots are covered with small brown spots. The development of the disease often occurs when waterlogging. Water the soil with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol, 8-10 liters per 1 sq. m. For prevention, before planting, the bulbs are treated with fungicides.

Colorless small spots that appear on the leaves, which increase in size, turn yellow and dry out, are caused by rust (Uromyces lilii). Under the epidermis in these places, summer and autumn sporulations of yellow-orange or dark brown color, respectively, are formed. To combat rust, diseased leaves are collected and destroyed, plants are sprayed 2-3 times with copper-containing preparations, more often they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

If the peduncles, flowers and bulbs rot and become covered with a green bloom in warm and humid weather, the plants are affected by penicillosis (fungi of the genus Penicillium). For spraying, use any fungicides containing zinc, copper, or a crimson potassium permanganate solution.

Bacterial or wet rot (Pectobacterium carotovorum, Pectobacterium aroidea) affects bulbs, leaves and flower stalks. In early spring, brown oval spots appear on the leaves, gradually turn yellow, then the leaves and peduncles rot. The disease develops due to waterlogging of the soil and excess nitrogen. During storage, foul-smelling depressed spots appear on the scales of the bulbs, causing rotting. Such bulbs are immediately separated and destroyed. When a disease appears during growth, lilies are sprayed with fungicides every ten days. Before planting, the bulbs are pickled with Fundazole or watered with soil in the hole.

Viral diseases

Mosaic of lilies (Lily mosaic virus) Identified by pale green spots on young leaves and stripes along the veins of the leaf. Plant growth stops. Leaves, buds and flowers are deformed. The mosaic virus is transmitted by aphids and mechanically with the juice of diseased plants.

At rosette lilies (Lily rosette virus) the peduncle is deformed and takes the form of a rosette, as its growth is greatly delayed. Chlorotic leaves are deformed. Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses cause ring spots and streaks on leaves. It is advisable not to plant lilies next to tulips and hostas in order to avoid infection with the variegation virus, the control measures for which have not yet been developed. All diseased plants are burned. Preventive measure- the destruction of aphids as a carrier of the disease. Orleans hybrids are more resistant to viral diseases.

Noncommunicable diseases

Chlorosis- yellowing of the leaves between the veins is observed if the acidity of the soil is above normal - the soil is too alkaline.

Purple staining of foliage due to lack of nutrition (due to rotting of the roots). Occurs in poorly drained soil in conditions of excessive moisture.

Deformation of leaves and curvature of stems(formation of thickenings and bubbles) occurs when lilies are damaged by spring frosts. Tubular hybrids are most susceptible to damage from a decrease in temperature.

fasciation- fusion of several stems into one in case of accidental damage to the growth point. This phenomenon is observed only with good care, when lilies are able to produce several shoots from one bulb. The following year, a normal stem grows.

It happens that a bulb planted according to all the rules does not germinate (fall asleep) in the first year and does not die, but next spring gives a sprout.

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