How to make a small sofa yourself. Sofa with your own hands. Angular, straight and others (60 step by step photos). Instructions for creating a frame product

Self-manufacturing upholstered furniture for the home can provide a lot of advantages and opportunities for creating original design and individual parameters of home interior items. The finished product will not only be a source of pride independent work, but it will also allow you to accurately enter the dimensions of the furniture in any room and show your own design talent, but before direct work, how to make a sofa with your own hands.

Creating furniture with your own hands is a feasible task for everyone who knows how to use tools and is ready to be patient. A little perseverance, hard work and imagination will help create an original masterpiece that will serve long years and pleasing to the eye every day.

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A cozy home is hard to imagine without beautiful upholstered furniture. Therefore, the sofa often occupies a dominant position in home interior. A lot of time is spent on it: games with children, sleep, gatherings with friends and much more. To create own sofa First of all, you need to figure out which design will best meet the needs of the family.

To understand how to make a sofa with your own hands, you need to study their varieties. Among the variety of types of upholstered furniture, there are several most popular models:

  • Book. This design allows you to fold homemade sofa in one motion, but it is quite difficult to assemble the frame correctly, in addition, welding and assembly of a special mechanism will be required.
  • Dolphin. It's over modern variety design, but it is quite difficult to assemble it. Unfolding occurs due to the extension of the lower section and when covering it with a folding back.
  • Pull-out system. Such a device allows you to create high-quality, flat surface for sleep and facilitates the transformation process.


sofa dolphin

  • Corner sofa. One of the most popular models. The corners fit perfectly into any interior, allow you to use more usable space and provide a comfortable bed.
  • Ottoman. The most simple design. These sofas do not fold out, so the assembly of the frame will be very simple.

When choosing future design the sofa should take into account the place where it will stand and the purpose of its use. Before starting work, you need to accurately measure, provide for how many people will sit on it, if this is a future bed - consider the height of a person, think through all the details, make preliminary drawings, and only then start work.

Do-it-yourself corner sofa

To make a high-quality corner sofa with your own hands, you need to make an effort, but the result is worth it. After all, the future interior object will save more than half of the cost finished products stores, harmoniously fit into the space of the dwelling, will enable placement in niches bed linen and other household items, and assembled will save space.


Also, do not forget that the corner sofa has a more prestigious look than a simple folding option, and if you do not skimp on quality materials the result will please for many years.
In order not to be disappointed in your own idea and avoid banal mistakes, you should follow some simple rules:

  • if the work is being done for the first time, then you need to choose the simplest drawing, without additional shelves and tables;
  • discard spiked joints, such work can only be done qualitatively by a professional carpenter;
  • develop or select from existing simple drawing for a corner sofa option self made with an indication of all elements, dimensions and movable components of the structure;
  • do not connect the parts with nails, over time they become loose and the structure falls apart, and self-tapping screws can strengthen the wood frame for many years;
  • when choosing wood, preference is given to conifers, they are more durable, have a rich fibrous structure and prevent moths from appearing in furniture;


  • all structural parts to be joined must be glued, but before this procedure, make sure that the joint is assembled correctly and all elements are docked as needed;
  • wooden parts made by hand must be carefully sanded to give the material greater strength and secure work with the product.

Material selection

For the first time, a do-it-yourself corner sofa should be made from materials that are not the most expensive category. This will not spoil the final product, but will help to understand the intricacies of the work and avoid excessive costs.

For creating corner sofa must be purchased at a hardware store:

  • pine timber 30 by 50 mm;
  • fiberboard panels 3 mm;
  • chipboard panels 16 mm;
  • plywood sheets of 5 and 15 mm;
  • lifting mechanism or microlift;
  • 9 legs for furniture;
  • dense sheets of foam rubber 20 and 40 mm;
  • dense material for furniture upholstery;
  • filler for upholstery and pillows of your choice.

To complete all the work, you must have the following tools available:

  • jigsaw (work can also be done with a hacksaw, but the edges may turn out to be uneven);
  • drill with a set of drills;
  • screwdriver;


  • knife with sharp blade for cutting foam rubber;
  • several types of fastening: nails, self-tapping screws, screws;
  • PVA glue for gluing foam rubber and carpentry glue for joints;
  • sewing machine for creating upholstery, covers and pillows.

Before starting work, consider how the parts will be cut. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room does not allow high-quality measurements and cuts, then you should entrust this work to professionals. Most construction stores and on bases building materials offer similar services.

Frame assembly

To start the assembly, you need to clearly imagine how to assemble the sofa, pre-mark it on chipboard sheets details, according to the drawing and the selected dimensions. Then cut them out, correcting all the irregularities, and fitting the size of the parts to each other. Among the resulting blanks should be:

  • Frame. This is the most simple detail on which the rest of the structure will be attached.
  • Armrests. For full-fledged furniture, you will need two identical armrests. It is necessary to assemble them in accordance with the drawings, attaching small parts to larger ones in descending order of size.


  • Seats. It is preferable to assemble the seats, like the sofa itself, in parts. First one part, then the second. When assembling the seats, special attention should be paid to checking the coincidence of the diagonals of the boxes, this will create correct form and the frame will become stable.
  • Back. Having built a frame according to the drawing, you can connect the parts and attach the back to the sofa. Also, in the part with the linen box, you need to fix the bottom.

The frame of the sofa must be assembled with special care, since the stability, strength and durability of future furniture depend on it.

Foam covering

Before starting the sheathing, it is necessary to check the stability of the joints, they should not move, the fastening should be rigid. For foam sheathing, you need to take measurements from all surfaces. Each element is cut out separately and glued to the surface, after which the next element is measured. Each next part is joined with the previous glued elements.

The work must be done gradually, carefully trimming the patterns. Trimmings can be used for joints and small parts. For the seats you need to lay thick layer foam rubber, not less than 100 mm.


If this is not available, then several layers of thinner material must first be glued together. The future comfort of the seats depends on the quality of this work. After finishing work, check the tightness of the upholstery and cover all hard and pointed parts of the body.

fabric upholstery

Initially, for sheathing, you need to choose quality fabric. It is the upholstery fabric that determines the final appearance finished furniture. The widest range of modern textile stores can offer the most variety of options fabrics, both natural and synthetic.

Among the most popular types of upholstery fabric for a sofa, it is better to choose from the following types of textiles:

  • Tapestry. This is an elite type of upholstery. The strength of the threads and the special weaving structure not only makes it possible to give strength to the material, but also to create an incredible pattern and texture.
  • Jacquard. Premium material with a silky sheen and depth of texture. But this option is less wear-resistant and does not respond well to chemical and mechanical cleaning.


  • Gunny. Budget solution for sofa upholstery. Pairwise weaving of threads resembles burlap. The material is pleasant to the touch and resistant to abrasion.
  • Velours. Artificial velor is quite cheap, but there are also expensive natural varieties. The front side of the material resembles soft suede and can convey original patterns.
  • Flock. Fabric with dense application of pile. This option is suitable for pet owners, because it is durable and not afraid of claws.
  • Synthetic leather. Very durable material with a luxurious appearance. It is effective to use it in the lining of armrests and elements subject to increased friction. The disadvantage of the material can be considered a not very pleasant surface for contact with open parts of the body, especially in hot weather.

It is very important to remember that the combination of two or even three fabrics will make the product more original. It is enough to choose the right combination of fabrics and the result will be amazing.

For a smooth and neat sheathing, you need to perform the work in the following order:

  • make templates for all the details from newspapers and check their coincidence by attaching the templates to a sofa upholstered with foam rubber;


  • then, along the patterns on the wrong side of the fabric, borders are drawn and details are cut out with a margin of 1 cm or more;
  • symmetrical drawstrings on the sofa make the appearance more harmonious, and relieve ready product from folds that form during operation;
  • in order for fabric tighteners to hold well and have an aesthetic appearance, you need to fasten buttons or loops through pre-made holes on the body plates;
  • so that the foam rubber crumbles less, a layer of agrotextile should be laid between it and the upholstery fabric;
  • fastening of fabrics is carried out with a construction stapler: first one side is attached, then the fabric is straightened, stretched and attached to the opposite side, then the edges are tucked in.

After completing all the operations, you need to assemble the sofa again. For harmonious look pillows or decor in the form of plaits, tassels and line seams are added. Legs and wood lining are attached last. In this form, a do-it-yourself corner sofa will last for many years and will delight the eyes of guests and household members.

A little practice and diligence will help turn this hobby into an additional income for the production of custom-made furniture.


If not, then making upholstered furniture with your own hands will help save a lot on updating the furniture set at home, in the country or as a gift to relatives.

Do-it-yourself ottoman is easy and simple. By its design, the ottoman resembles a hybrid of a bed and an ordinary sofa.

This piece of furniture will be a salvation for owners of small apartments, in which a full bed simply does not fit.

List of materials and the beginning of the process

To begin with, it is worth practicing on an ottoman designed for country interior, and having got the hang of it, you can make beautiful sofa for an apartment. When assembling an ottoman with your own hands, you do not need to be guided by clear rules and advice, since they do not exist. The main criterion is the reliability and strength of the structure, which directly depend on the selected materials. By assembling an ottoman with your own hands, you have the opportunity to model upholstered furniture at your own discretion. For example, the back does not have to be attached to the head of the sofa, it can run along the entire length of the ottoman or adjacent to the sidewalls. It is also worth paying special attention to the legs of the future sofa. By picking up carved wooden legs, you can give the ottoman a noble look, and chrome-plated metal legs will modernize your upholstered furniture.

The construction of the frame, filling and upholstery of furniture are the main stages of assembling an ottoman with your own hands. First of all, it is worth purchasing all the necessary materials. To do this, you need to determine the dimensions of the future sofa, and it is best to start from the mattress, since you cannot make it yourself. So, for the ottoman frame you will need:

  • two boards (1410x200x20) that will serve as transverse ribs;
  • two boards (2040x200x20) for the sidewalls of the frame;
  • two bars (1410x60x60) for a transverse screed;
  • four bars (300x60x60), which will become the legs of the furniture.

You can purchase ready-made legs that match the design and color scheme of the interior of the room. Fabric for upholstery of upholstered furniture should be dense, of high quality, easy to clean and not wipe. In addition, a wide range allows you to choose upholstery fabric, which will fit into overall design interior.

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Assembly process

After purchasing all the materials, you can proceed to the collection of the frame. First of all, it is necessary to attach the sidewalls of the frame, for this we drill them at a distance of 10 mm from the end with an 8 mm drill. In turn, we drill the bars for the transverse screed to the end with a 5-mm drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the frame must be tightly tightened, the joints of all wooden parts It is advisable to lubricate with PVA glue. After the frame is fully assembled, you need to make sure that it does not sway, does not creak and has the correct shape.

Then, in the longitudinal boards of the frame, you need to cut holes for the rails at a distance of 20 centimeters from each other. The stiffeners should fit tightly into the holes, they can also be fixed with nails or glue. A sheet of plywood is placed on the attached slats and nailed with small carnations. Foam rubber is laid over the plywood sheets. When choosing a filler, you should pay attention to the degree of rigidity. Very soft foam rubber will leave dents and sag, and on a hard one it will not be comfortable to lie.

After lining the filler, you can proceed to the upholstery of upholstered furniture. To save material, you need to nail the fabric in those places where the back will not be screwed. The upholstery fabric is folded and fixed with a construction stapler; in the process, it is important to control the degree of tension. Upholstering the frame will not be difficult, but you will have to tinker with the backs. The shape of the back can be any, it is easily cut out with an electric jigsaw from a 15 mm plywood sheet. The thickness of the foam must be at least 30 mm. The upholstery fabric is stapled and folded to the wall. The process of upholstering the backs is extremely difficult, if the furniture is against the wall, there will be no problems, and if in the middle of the room, it is better to buy ready-made covers. As a result, we can conclude that upholstering an ottoman with your own hands is the most difficult process, as you will have to show ingenuity and patience.

In general, the process of assembling upholstered furniture is very exciting and interesting, since you can act as a designer. Except unusual shape and interesting upholstery, the sofa can be supplemented with retractable drawers for storing bed linen. You can also tighten the foam rubber by drilling holes in the plywood and pulling the filler with a nylon thread, the holes can be hidden with beautiful buttons, cloth-covered in tone. If you have the time and desire, you can assemble a beautiful, inexpensive and high-quality ottoman with your own hands.

Of course, one of the main elements of furniture in the house is the sofa. This thing is extremely, necessary and useful, in addition to comfortable rest you can hide many household items in it, using it instead of a pantry or closet. The shape of the corner sofa is the most convenient in its location in any room and interior design.

Having decided to make a corner sofa with your own hands for the first time, you should not choose intricate shapes with niches and shelves, ovals and semicircles, first try to make the most simplified version of this design. It is also important that by making a sofa yourself you will save the financial costs of it, at least twice.

It is necessary to start making a sofa by drawing up a drawing sketch of its size and intended shape. For the assembly of the frame, various wooden planks and bars, as well as all kinds of chipboard (OSB, chipboard, fiberboard, plywood, etc.).

Next necessary material it is foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, batting, spandbond or similar substitutes.

The assembly, as a rule, begins with the lower element of the sofa frame, namely the seat.

The width of the board is within 20-25 cm, the rectangular frame is twisted through with self-tapping screws or metal corner plates, with back side.

We hem the bottom of the box with OSB foxes.

As for covering the top of the seat box, there are several options.

The first option is twisted tightly OSB sheet or we fill the binding with rope belts and lay the foam cushion on top, glue the second foam rubber onto the OSB sheet and make a one-piece seat cover that can be hinged to the frame and arranged as a niche. In our version, we use both options, one half of the seat will be filled, in the second it will be made lifting.

The next element of the frame is its back, its frame is made of a board, the supporting part is sewn up with an OSB sheet. The back part does not need to be sheathed with sheets, it is enough to stretch and upholster with spandbond or cotton fabric.

Here you can see what it looks like closed version seats. By the way, the dimensions of the width, length of the seat and back height directly depend on the available finishing materials, namely foam rubber mats and back cushions, although they can also be made from foam rubber.

The second part of the corner sofa is made in the same order, the change is only in the upper seat. We glue the OSB sheet cut to the size of the box spray adhesive foam rubber, then cover it with padding polyester and spandbond, stretch and nail their edges along the perimeter of the back side with a stapler. We sew the cover in size and fit it. After that, it will be laid on top of the seat, optionally fixed with furniture hinges.

Connective corner element made of the same materials and according to the dimensions of the two side parts. We glue the batting on the lower front part and the back, put spandbond on top. It has a sliding surface and with its use it will be more convenient to stretch and level upholstery covers and weave.

We upholster the back sides of all three parts with cotton fabric or any other that you may have available.

One of the important stages in the manufacture of a corner sofa with your own hands is sewing covers and upholstery of fixed parts of the frame. For sewing Czechs, of course, you will need sewing machine, in case of its absence, you can cut out the necessary details and ask someone you know to sew them.

The legs for the frames are made of wooden bars with through holes, fixed with self-tapping screws to the frames, made to the size of the lower boxes from the corner wooden plinth. Having attached the frame to the frame, through the holes in the legs, we attract them with long screws to the main frame.

Having installed the corner part, we move the two side parts to it and twist the bottom walls together. As you can see, there are no side armrests in this option, but they are quite simple to make.

Under required size twist the (light) frame.

We wrap it with batting or padding polyester, and you can glue it with foam rubber.

We sew the cover and fit the frame. There are several ways to attach to the main frame, install furniture clamping spokes, or it is easier to twist during assembly with self-tapping screws from under the seats through and through.

Do it yourself

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There are several unusual ways make a sofa out of readily available materials. Thus, you will receive a piece of furniture at the lowest cost.

Options

The first method involves the use of beams left after the construction of large buildings as a material. In addition to the beam, the following materials will be required:

  • foam rubber, which can be bought in a special store;
  • zipper 21 cm long, which will be required when sewing the cover;
  • three 7 cm zippers used on pillows;
  • upholstery material, such as tapestry;
  • corner and metal mesh.

frame

Most of the work of building a sofa is to build load-bearing structure from a bar. To make the process more convenient, you should make a choice in favor of a bar with a size of 7 × 21 cm, from which you will also make furniture legs.

Back

Equally important in this matter is the collection of a strong back for the sofa. Since this version of the sofa is quite simple and does not provide for a folding system, the backrest is made in the same way with a frame base. The backrest is fixed to the base with thick metal corners as tightly as possible. How much the back will be tilted is up to you to choose, based on your feelings.

In the third step of the work, you will make a lattice for support on the sofa frame, necessary to hold the seat cushions. This is done using a metal armored mesh from old bed. Fixing the mesh to wooden base metal staples, you will get the desired result. For greater reliability on longitudinal frame bars glue a few cross.

Upholstery

Proceed to soft upholstery in the following sequence:

  • cut two pieces of foam rubber that match the size of the sofa back and at least 15 cm thick;
  • sheathe the cut out elements with material, for example, tapestry, connecting them with a zipper;
  • using decorative tape, attach the mattresses to the supporting structure. The ribbon you will receive from upholstery material and Velcro. Fasten one end of the tape to the frame with small carnations, and the other to the tapestry cover;
  • after sewing three covers from the same upholstery material and equipping them with zippers, stuff them with the remnants of foam rubber. You should get three pillows.

Shield

This method is suitable for people who do not have skills in working with wood. This option is a little easier and for its implementation you need to stock up:

  • two used door leaves;
  • metal staples;
  • wood hemp;
  • foam rubber;
  • upholstery material.

The base and back of this sofa model will be two used wooden doors. You will need to pre-clean them from old coatings and dirt, and then process them with a grinder.

Next, the sashes are painted in the color of your choice, while trying to match it general interior the room in which the sofa will be installed in the future. You can choose finishes wooden surface veneer.

Using nails, fix one sash on a wooden stump of the appropriate size, and then fix the second part (back) on it with metal staples and glue.

After that, start making a mattress: cut the foam rubber of the same size with the seat and cover it with a dense fabric (matting is ideal for this). Already on top of this material, a bright fabric of good quality will be stretched.

The main requirement is the construction of the most durable and reliable frame base. It is on him that all the main load falls, and if you neglect this requirement, you can get injured during operation, and it will not last long. Based on this, you can choose another base material that meets the requirements.

beat finished structure you can do whatever you want, it all depends on your preferences and imagination.

corner sofa

For the manufacture of a corner sofa, it is not necessary to use complex connections, for example, spike products, as well as expensive materials. For work, we suggest using the following material, the volume and amount of which depends on the size:

  • beam 30 × 50 mm;
  • plywood, 5 and 15 mm thick;
  • self-tapping screws and wood screws;
  • nails;
  • synthetic winterizer, with a density of 140-170 g / day;
  • batting;
  • foam rubber, 20 and 40 mm thick with a density of at least 30 kg / m 3;
  • glue for foam rubber and wood glue;
  • foam crumb;
  • furniture fabric;
  • lifting mechanism;
  • furniture legs 5 cm high.

As for the tool, for work you will need:

  • wood saw;
  • miter box;
  • screwdriver;
  • stapler;
  • sewing machine;

Each structural block is made of a frame, which is based on timber, chipboard and plywood. The internal space in blocks 1 and 2 can be used rationally by making removable covers. For their supports, a beam of 20 × 30 mm is fixed along the perimeter of the frame. It is installed below the upper cut by the thickness of the cover plate. To make the lid easy to lift, you can drill holes for your fingers in it.

Blocks 1 and 2 are identical in design. Their only difference is in size. The first block is 100x60 cm, and the second is 60x60. It is the second block that will be located in the corner of the structure and connect the first and third blocks together. As for the third block, you can make a drawer-seat in it. Due to this, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sofa will increase. To do this, you can install a retractable or rotary mechanism.

The drawer will also be equipped with a chipboard lid. If it is not difficult to assemble it, then difficulties may arise in the manufacture of legs. Why? When pushing the drawer into the sofa body, they will interfere. Therefore, instead of legs, it is necessary to increase the height of the front side drawer. When unfolding a corner sofa, it will serve as a support platform. And to make the drawer easy to pull out, furniture wheels can be fixed to the bottom.

The cover for the third block (indicated in the diagram) can also be made removable. Inside, for example, it will be possible to fold bed linen.

The size of the seat cushion must be equal to the size of the drawer. Therefore, when the box is pulled out, a pillow is removed from the back and placed on it instead of a mattress.

Now it's time to make the back to the corner sofa. The manufacturing process looks like this:

  • Place 3 beams horizontally and connect them as in the illustration uprights. The height of the back in our case will be 105 cm.
  • The lower second beam will be located at a height of 25 cm. They will serve to fix the back to the sofa.
  • The upper beam will be used for the base of the skin fastening and provide the necessary structural rigidity.
  • The frame is sheathed on both sides with plywood 5 mm thick.
  • When laying upholstery fabric to avoid the appearance of hooks and bumps, process all corners sandpaper.
  • Glue thin foam rubber on the side and front surface, due to this, the upholstery will be soft.

In conclusion, it remains to sheathe the entire sofa, including the backs, with the selected material.

Before that, you take all the measurements, and then cut out the fabric with an allowance for the hem. You can fasten the material with a stapler. The place of fastening should be on the invisible part of the end of the panel. Make sure that the fabric does not wrinkle at the corners. As for the manufacture of pillows for the back and seat, they can be made of foam rubber with a density of 140–170 g / day and a thickness of at least 10 cm. You will also need to sew a cover with a zipper. This will allow you to remove the cover and wash it if necessary.

The sofa can perform several functions. So, it can be used for a short rest during the day and for good rest at night. Consider the sequence of work. The description will be accompanied by diagrams, so that you can visually see the manufacturing process.

sidewalls

From boards with a thickness of 19 mm, cut off two blanks with a length of 775 mm and 381 mm. From them you assemble the frame A / B. Panel D is cut out of plywood of the same size. First, the frame is glued together, and after the glue dries, it is twisted with self-tapping screws. After that, cut out the bosses C. Thanks to them, the bed ties will be securely fastened. The thickness of the boss is equal to the thickness of the frame. These parts are glued to the frame and set aside to dry.

Now it's time to cut out blank D (381x775mm). Fix the cutter in the collet of the router. She will perform a selection of 3 × 6 mm folds around the entire perimeter of the workpiece, but only from the front side. After that, take 2 panels, which will be located on inside sides and connect them double sided tape face to face. On one of the panels, mark the places for making holes Ø19 mm, which will indicate the end and the beginning of the slot. Further, through both panels, drill holes in the intended place.

Next, draw lines between the holes. After separating the panels, cut the slots with a jigsaw. To make sure that the slots are even, run a dowel Ø19 mm inside them. If necessary, sandpaper can be used to refine places where the size does not correspond to 19 mm. Finally, chamfer the edges of the slots, 3 mm wide on the front side of the part. Paint the bottom of the folds with a stain, so you emphasize the shadow gap that forms between the edging of the sidewall and the edge of the panel.

Now you can try on the made panels to the previously made frames. At the edges, both parts must completely match. After these manipulations, cut out the side and bottom / top edging parts E and F. They must be cut with an allowance of up to 25 mm in length. For their joining, the edges are cut off at an angle of 45 °. The edging is connected to the frame with glue and self-tapping screws. Of necessity assembled parts polished with sandpaper.

To make the legs, cut block parts G, leg ties I, spacers J and front panels H. Connect workpieces G and H together so that the sides and bottom of the parts converge. Then, using a clamp, fasten the blanks to the couplers I and make countersunk holes.

A countersink hole is made for the head of a countersunk screw. To do this, it is best to insert a head screw into the drill chuck desired diameter. Chips can occur when using a drill, especially when drilling holes in plywood.

The resulting hole is used to connect the ties and legs. Mill a 3 mm chamfer around the bottom end of the legs. After that, grind the resulting element with sandpaper. If you want to give the blanks a special tone or color, you can process them with stain.

Spacers J must be connected to the undersides of the sidewall. Make sure there are no protrusions on the sides. Next, the leg is attached and it must also be aligned along the edges of the workpiece F. Make a hole through the ties I, countersink it and connect the parts with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, you need to make an armrest of the appropriate size. The armrest should protrude beyond the edges in front and behind, and with interior panels should be level.

Back and seat

To make the back and seat, several blanks should be cut: the M post, the N top bar, the O bottom bar, the Q side bars, the R pads, the back S and the front bar of the seat T. A 50 mm board can be used for manufacturing. As for the seat panel U and backrest P, they can be done later.

Now drill holes and counterbores in the Q side bars and the M post, and fasten the R pads to the Q side bars.

Countersinking is a countersinking process, which involves cleaning the end surface. As a rule, counterboring is performed in the form of mounted heads that have end teeth. This process is carried out under the washer, nuts or thrust rings.

In the racks, make grooves 38 mm wide. Also make folds at the end of the front T-bar 76 mm wide, and at the end of the top N-bar and back S-38 mm.

A tongue and groove means a longitudinal protrusion on the edge of a board or beam. It fits into a matching groove on another board with a similar shape. This connection method is known as tongue and groove.

After that, take the workpiece N and T and mill a rounding with a radius of 12 mm on them. Also do 15° bevels. At the ends of the part N, T and S, make counterbores 8 mm deep, with a Forstner drill Ø10 mm, and make mounting holes in the center of the counterbore.

At the next stage, it's time to make the back and seat P and U. Having cut them to the specified dimensions around the perimeter of the part, you should mill a 10 mm wide fold around the entire perimeter. In this process, ridges should be formed. They must fit into the sheet piles T, S, Q, O, N and M. Next, grease the sheet piles T, S, R/Q, O, M and N and, fixing with a clamp, glue them to the panels U and P. After earlier made holes on parts T, S, N and M, drill a hole in the panel and fix the parts with self-tapping screws. After that, wooden plugs / plugs must be glued into the counterbores. Finally, these plugs should be ground flush with the workpiece.

Now you need to make stops V at one end with a bevel. It must be pressed with a clamp to the seat at the designated place. After drilling the holes, countersink them and fasten them with a self-tapping screw. Sand a 3mm chamfer around the butt and cut off a 57mm length. As a result, you will need to make 4 such parts and fix them in the holes of the backrest racks. At this stage, you still need to make four wooden washers, 6 mm thick and Ø127 mm. Sand these spacers smooth.

To connect the backs, it is necessary to cut out the drawers L. Immediately before assembling the sofa bed, make sure that there are no sharp corners and chips. If necessary, they should be sanded with sandpaper. In conclusion, it remains to complete the sheathing, as well as final assembly. By closely adhering to the diagrams and the set out step-by-step instructions, you will be able to do all the work yourself.


Making upholstered furniture is not an easy process. It requires accuracy, care and diligence. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the instructions for making a sofa-book, which, when unfolded, will have dimensions of 1400 × 2200 mm, and when folded, 1000 × 2200 mm. To do this, you need to prepare the following material:

  • board 25 mm thick: 1000 × 50 (12 pcs.); 800 × 50 (2 pcs.); 800 × 200 (2 pcs.); 1900×200 (2 pieces);
  • timber: 50×50×200 (4 pcs); 40×50×330 (4 pcs); 40×60×530 (6 pcs); 40×60×1790 (2 pcs); 40×60× 1890 (2 pieces);
  • glue intended for foam rubber;
  • staples for stapler 16 and 10 mm;
  • self-tapping screws 89D and 51 D;
  • nails 70 and 100 mm;
  • nuts 8 and 8 mm;
  • furniture bolts: 6×70 (8 pcs.); 6×40 (4 pcs.); 8×120 (4 pcs.);
  • interlining - 4 m;
  • foam rubber;
  • fabric 6 m / p and 1.4 m wide;
  • Fiberboard 1.7 × 2.75 3.2 mm thick (1 sheet);
  • holders (64 pcs.) and wooden lamellas (32 pcs.);
  • legs 4 pcs.
  • 1 set of book sofa mechanism.

Prepare also the following set of tools:

  • stapler;
  • open-end wrenches;
  • set of drills;
  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • a hammer;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • square;
  • hacksaw.

With all of the above, you can get to work.


The first step is to make frames for the armrest, drawer for linen, backrest and seat. First, let's assemble a box for linen. For this you need to use:

  • 4 beams 40 × 50 (50 × 50) 200 mm long;
  • 2 boards 25 mm, 50 mm wide and 800 mm long;
  • 2 boards 800 mm long and 200 mm wide;
  • 2 boards 25 mm thick (40 mm thick or 20 mm plywood), 1900 mm long and 200 mm wide.

From boards 800 and 1900 mm long, assemble the frame, reinforcing the structure with transverse rails. Fiberboard of the appropriate size is nailed to the bottom of the structure. Next, you need to assemble the back and seat of the sofa. The size of the bed should be spacious enough, so take this into account when calculating. So, assemble 2 equal frames, size 1890 × 650 mm from a bar 40 × 60 mm. The timber frame is best fastened with self-tapping screws. To do this, pre-drill holes Ø8 mm to a depth of 10 mm. After making the frame, it is necessary to fix the lamellas to hold the mattress.

The next step is to make the armrests. For this purpose, you can use chipboard 25 mm thick. Cut out the left and right armrest, according to the dimensions indicated in the photo:

Next to be done wooden frame. At the same time, it should be 20 mm shorter chipboard size. After that, make holes Ø8.5 mm in the frame and insert 8 × 120 mm bolts into them and after that the frame is sewn up. Also drill holes on the laundry box, only Ø10 mm.

Now the individual parts of the sofa are assembled into one. A special transformation mechanism is also used. When assembling two frames, take into account the fact that in the unfolded state there is at least 10 mm between them, and in the folded state the seat does not protrude beyond the armrest.

After that, the frame must be sheathed. It uses foam rubber and prepared fabric. Do not forget to also sheathe the armrests with fabric and foam rubber.

Sofa-transformer - its types

There are several types of transforming sofas:

  1. Book. This model is one of the simplest. Folding out the sofa creates an extra bed. And for convenience, springs are installed in the back.
  2. Eurobook. With a slight pull of the seat, the sofa is conveniently unfolded, and pillows are placed on the resulting free space.
  3. Withdrawable. The lower part is movable. As a result, a full-fledged sleeping place is pulled out. This model has main disadvantage– rapid wear of mechanisms.
  4. Dolphin sofa. This type of construction is most often made angular. When it is extended, two sleeping places are obtained. And the extra bed rises from under the fixed part.
  5. Sofa accordion. This model is quite compact, consisting of 3 parts that unfold and fold.

Video: assembling a eurobook on a plywood block

Video: making a Chester sofa

If you still decide to buy a sofa or make it to order, then contact the online furniture store. On the Internet you can find inexpensive options various forms: both straight and angled.

A photo

Scheme

The diagrams show various options making a sofa

The sofa is considered the most comfortable and functional furniture. It can simultaneously serve as a place for daytime rest in a sitting or lying position, turn into a full-fledged sleeping place for 2 adults. In addition, spacious drawers under the seats allow you to store a large number of various things. Models placed in the corner save usable area in room. Many people try to make a corner sofa with their own hands, providing them with the functions that are necessary in each individual case.

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Corner sofas in the interior

The corner sofa is gaining more and more popularity because of the possibility rational use usable space apartments, especially such rarely demanded ones as a corner and a window sill. They look beautiful in any interior, often equipped with spacious linen drawers, transformation mechanisms that allow you to turn them into a comfortable bed at the right time.

Sofas with corner location have long been deservedly used in kitchens. With their help, it is convenient and efficient to divide the space of combined rooms, such as a kitchen, dining room, living room or bedroom.



Owners small apartments such pieces of furniture will allow you to get a comfortable and roomy sofa for 5 seats or more, an extra bed and a box for storing linen or rarely used items in 1 item.

Many craftsmen make corner sofas with their own hands. After all, those wishing to acquire such a product, the purchase of factory production may require large financial costs. In addition, often the room does not accommodate standard models.

Step by step instructions for making a sofa

You can independently assemble a sofa of an angular design, both the simplest model and quite complex. It all depends on the skills and abilities of the performer, the location of the future product, the aesthetic function that it will carry.

Consider how to make a do-it-yourself corner sofa with linen cavities under the rising seats and wide upholstered armrests.

Required Tools

To assemble a sofa with corner placement at home, you need to purchase:

  1. bars 4x4 cm to reinforce some places of the frame, making backrests and seat supports;
  2. boards with a thickness of 2-2.5 cm and a width that will correspond to the height of the frame;
  3. sheets of plywood, if finances allow and it is necessary to provide high strength, or chipboard with a thickness of at least 16 mm, which costs much less, but is more susceptible to mechanical damage and moisture;
  4. foam rubber 10-20 cm thick and upholstery;
  5. metal corners (if it is planned to strengthen the structure).

You will need these tools:

  • jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting wood blanks;
  • screwdriver or drill with drills for screwing fasteners and drilling holes;
  • any suitable measuring tool;
  • self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts and washers;
  • pencil or marker.

Drawings and diagrams

The ease of installation process and the quality of the finished product will depend on how accurately the drawings and assembly diagrams are made.

Dimensions and dimensions to be displayed in the drawing corner model, directly depend on the place available for its installation. Therefore, creating your own original item furniture should begin by removing the length of free adjacent walls. These data will become fundamental, and the height of the backrest can be arbitrary.

First, a drawing is drawn, which indicates the length of both halves of the sofa, the depth of the product and the height of the back. Then it is necessary to calculate the width of the front part, for which the depth is subtracted from the total length of both halves, schematically indicating a square in the corner.

The next step creates detailed diagram, which includes the component parts, the location of the fasteners, reinforcing elements and partitions of the internal storage boxes.

Then the bottom of the box is sewn up with fiberboard, using small furniture nails or a stapler with extended staples. In a similar way, the second half of the product and a square corner insert are made.

Now you need to fold all 3 elements and fasten them with bolts and nuts, remembering to install washers to protect the wood from damage.

To make the backrest, you will need 6 identical blanks with a cut at a slight angle from the level of the seat. Their location should be mirrored relative to the transverse frame boards. They are fastened together with a beam.

We fasten the bars near the floor and in the middle. 2 backs are placed behind the box and from its inside are firmly screwed with self-tapping screws along the top and bottom lines. Then the front of the back is covered with parts made of chipboard or plywood, and a solid blank is attached to the upper end, cut in the corner part at an angle of 45 °.

To install the seats, you need to fasten 3 loops for each to the blanks and fix them in the places of the side boards and the transverse beam. At the final stage, the frame of the corner sofa is sewn up at the back with your own hands. fiberboard sheet and a blind blank is installed on the central square.

foam padding

To create a soft part of the corner sofa, foam rubber is used at least 10 cm thick. The ends are softened with synthetic winterizer or thin foam rubber.

First, blanks are glued to the seats and backs so that it protrudes over the edges by several centimeters. Then the side plane and the upper end are pasted over, joining all the pieces to form smooth transitions.

To protect the foam rubber from abrasion against the upholstery fabric during operation, it is recommended to cover it with synthetic winterizer or batting.

What do you do with old furniture?