Proper mulching of the garden with pine needles. Mulching the land in the vineyard Is it possible to mulch grapes with pine needles

You need to mulch the vineyard a season before its laying. Then the seedlings will "sit down" in an already full-fledged, healthy, fertile land and you may never know about problems with their survival and diseases.
Thanks to the mulch, you will forget what weeding is, because there will simply be no weeds. But a structure is formed in the soil: channels that, like a sponge, absorb rain and melt water; tunnels through which air moves and on the walls of which dew condenses; capillaries that draw up nutrient solutions from depths beyond the reach of the most fanatical plowmen.
Perhaps you planted a seedling in the fall and have now opened it or just finished it. spring planting- no matter. It is important not to rush with mulching - the earth must warm up so that the roots get a good start and begin to actively develop living space. It is better to start mulching when the air temperature at night does not fall below 10-12 ° C for a couple of weeks. But the best signal to start mulching will give the grape itself: when the eyes open, you can mulch.
Methods for mulching grapes
The easiest way to mulch grapes is cover the space around the seedling within a radius of half a meter, for example, straw with a layer of about 5 cm. In spring, organic mulch is in acute shortage, and for some reason there are never many materials harvested since autumn, so do not try to immediately cover just one seedling with a dense “veil” - it is probably not one, it is necessary that everyone has enough. Then add thicknesses when it grows than to add.
It is more important now to mulch not only trunk circle seedling, but the entire area that is allocated to him "for growth" - that is, the place where it will be and where you will direct the sleeves. How more land you make it alive and fertile, the better, besides, you will immediately get rid of the need for weeding and significantly reduce the likelihood of developing diseases.
The same goes for grapes that you may already be growing. You mark out half a meter on both sides of the trellis, mow the grass, you can loosen the top layer of soil or with a cultivator - just don't dig! And mulch, and you can use grass that has just been mowed here.
If the mulch material is dry, it is useful to sprinkle it with water to activate the biological processes under the mulch. Sometimes it is necessary to fix the mulch so that the wind does not dispel it - most often it is enough to roll it with branches, boards or just water it. Once it's stuck, the wind won't blow it away. And get ready to make up for the shrinkage of the mulch!
The figures show the difference in the development of grape seedlings with and without mulch.

Now about the tricks of mulching grapes, material for mulch
The smaller the mulching material, the faster it will be absorbed by the soil inhabitants, the more intensively it will develop and the sooner it will bear fruit. grape bush. Some do not even spare money for electric shredders - the grape harvest is still more expensive, and not only grapes need mulch.
But relatively large branches, vines, and other coarse organics work great in mulch - they just take longer to be included in the fertilization process. The same organics, only already decomposing, will help speed up their processing. It is easy to find rotten, half-decayed branches and leaves in a forest, grove, forest belt, old garden, on an abandoned neighboring plot. Keep nylon bags of sugar or flour on the farm, and, by the way, a wheelbarrow is a great help for a modern winegrower!
So, we put the “sourdough” on the soil in the form of organic matter, on which the microflora is already working, on top of our branches, vines, stepchildren, leaves and most top layer- hay or loose grass. It would be nice to pour water over all this: in a humid environment, bacteria and fungi from our “sourdough” will spread widely and quickly.
As an activator, you can use semi-rotted compost and manure. If possible, mix it with other raw materials for mulch or distribute thin layer on the surface of the soil, and spread another mulching material on top. Bacteria and other living creatures from the compost environment will quickly master the new living space.
If to speak about food waste, cake after a juicer and churn, silage and other organic matter with a high nitrogen content, it is better to make a “sandwich”: an activator on the soil, our “raw materials” in the middle, and cover with dry materials a few centimeters on top. So the assimilation process will go much faster, moreover, there will be no unpleasant odors and flies.
It is usually not recommended to use sawdust, shavings, bark as mulch, especially conifers trees. Firstly, these materials increase the acidity of the soil (although this can be very useful in regions where soils are alkaline). Secondly, cellulose can cause temporary nitrogen starvation of grapes (the same applies to straw).
However, sawdust and straw can be used as part of the mulch, you just need to mix them with fresh grass, manure, bird droppings, and add at least three parts of "thinner" to one part of the sawdust. It is possible not to mix, but then it is necessary to alternate them in thin layers and moisten, if possible, with a solution of mullein, herbal infusion or EM preparation.
In any case, nitrogen starvation is a temporary phenomenon and will pass when your soil living creatures "churn" cellulose and nitrogen returns to the soil. And after three years of chemical-free and plowing-free agricultural technology with total mulching, your “live” vineyard will be able to assimilate with appetite a multi-centimeter layer of sawdust and arm-thick branches in one season.
sawdust and straw- very affordable and cheap materials, most often their price is formed by the cost of delivery to the site. The issue of providing raw materials for mulching is not so simple - look after groves, glades, meadows, abandoned areas where you can "extract" organic covering material.
Grandmother - "God's dandelion" can wheelbarrow several tons of fallen leaves from a grove per kilometer. A scythe, sacks and a bicycle will help increase productivity not only in the vineyard. Do you have a car and a trailer? Generally good - go to the nearest sawmill, for them the removal of sawdust - a big problem, so you will most likely be delighted. And if they are not happy, and even want money for sawdust, calmly turn around and go to another sawmill.
Straw is very good for our business, especially since farms willingly sell it in bales and rolls. But keep in mind that a roll of straw weighs 200-400 kg - delivering it to the site and unloading it without breaking anything can be a daunting task.
In some regions, it is widely used as a fertilizer sapropel- bottom sediments of freshwater reservoirs, which were formed from dead aquatic vegetation, the remains of living organisms and plankton. As a mulch, sapropel can be used in combination with straw and sawdust or without them. Peat is also good for mulching grapes.
By the way, it will be remembered that coal- these are plant remains that have undergone slow decomposition under the influence of geological and biological processes. So if you have a black pile lying idle behind your barn for years, grind the coal with a hammer and add in small amounts under the mulch.
The finer the fraction, the faster you will notice improvements in the vineyard (and not only), coal dust is really good.
Effective microorganisms are able to greatly accelerate and improve the process of forming the interaction between soil, mulch and grapes, as well as quickly start the process of high-quality plant nutrition with the help of organic matter and such “goodies” as “EM-bokashi” (“Urgasa”, “”).
"EM-bokashi" (EM-bokasi) is a culture of effective microorganisms grown on an organic substrate under conditions of stable temperature and humidity. The Japanese invented "bokashi" for recycling kitchen waste, but our people "reoriented" this technology to vegetable gardens, orchards and vineyards.
In our case, "bokashi" are fermented by effective microorganisms wheatbran, and if anything deserves to be called "fertilizer", it's them. Each grain of “bokashi” contains a “division” of agronomically useful microorganisms, which, when “landing”, are introduced into the developed territory thoroughly and for a long time. With them they have full complex tools, materials and information - antioxidants, enzymes, organic matter, which contribute to the rapid decomposition of organic matter, and also serve as food for the effective microorganisms themselves and the surrounding helpers - to restore and consolidate order around themselves.
The introduction of "bokashi" into the soil increases its biological activity, promotes the formation of structure, suppresses pathogens, enhances plant nutrition, and if you add "bokashi" under the mulch, then all the beneficial effects of mulching, which are described above, will appear within a couple of weeks.
Making "bokashi" is easy- just scatter them on the surface of the soil and mulch. How much to pour? Yes, according to the principle “you can’t spoil porridge with oil”. Although they still cost money, you yourself calculate your budget. Here you can apply the principle of leverage: "winning in strength, we lose in distance." In the sense that more "bokashi" - processes go faster, less "bokashi" - they also go, only longer. In fact, the use of "bokashi" is much more profitable than the use of mineral fertilizers and pesticides, and the results are completely incomparable.
You can easily test the effects of bokashi if you run a very simple experiment on two adjacent vines (or vegetable beds). Mulch one bush with the introduction of "bokashi", and the other - without them. After a couple of weeks, unfold the mulch, and where the "bokashi" are made, you will see great amount earthworms - the soil will literally move. Where there is no "bokashi", there will certainly be worms, but in much smaller numbers. The word "much" here can be illustrated as follows: people sometimes come across in the forest, but there are much more of them in the city. More or less like this.
earthworms For our business, that in itself is great. But in our experiment, they are primarily an indicator of the microbiological activity of the medium. It is known that worms are attracted to decaying organic matter, and it decomposes under the action of microorganisms. For worms, this is a delicious, satisfying “goulash”, and for us, it is a signal that thanks to “bokashi”, soil life boils under the mulch, flourishes and prospers. Which is what we needed. The result will always be the same: little soil living creatures - underdeveloped plants - low yields. That is, as always, like everyone else. And when there is a lot of living creatures, when the earth is alive, there are no problems either with the development of grapes, or with the formation of magnificent clusters, or with the maturation of vines.

Grapes give a rich harvest on nutritious soils with good air circulation. The number of fruits largely depends on the temperature of the soil and its moisture content. Suitable conditions are easier to create with mulching. There are several ways to carry out this procedure. In order for plants to actively develop, you need to learn how to mulch grapes and other crops.

Mulching is an agrotechnical technique, which consists in covering the soil with special materials.

Large farms are equipped with automatic mulching machines that evenly distribute materials across the fields.

Thanks to this approach:

• evaporation is reduced, the soil retains more moisture, so crops need to be watered less often;
• improves oxygen exchange, soil structure, thereby accelerating the development of the root system;
• weeds and a hard air-tight crust on the surface cease to appear. The need for weeding and loosening is significantly reduced;
• there are no sudden changes in temperature, due to which the berries crack;
• mineral substances cease to be washed out;
• beneficial microorganisms are activated.

When using coatings plant origin the concentration of nutrients in the soil increases. Combination various materials allows you to adjust the temperature on the surface:

• dark mulch attracts sunlight;
• light reflects.

The expediency of using a certain coating depends on the desired goals - improving fertility, retaining moisture, and controlling weeds.

Autumn mulching protects crops from freezing, the soil from weathering and leaching. Plants develop more actively in the new year.

Do grapes need to be mulched?

Loading mulch under vineyards is definitely worth it. Although this laborious process, however, it greatly facilitates the cultivation of crops.

According to the rules, the procedure is carried out a year before planting. During the allotted time, the coating will be processed by microorganisms. Thanks to the shelter, the soil will become fertile, channels and tunnels will appear in it, through which air and water move. Grapes will rather take root in a new place, will begin to grow actively. Significantly increase its resistance to disease and freezing.

The exception is severe clay soil. Here coverage is not always beneficial. The ground does not dry out after rains, so mulching material can degrade the nutrition of the bushes. It is permissible to lay quite a bit, literally 2-3 cm.

What and how can be used for mulching grapes?

There are 2 types of materials. They differ in origin:

• organic - plant, wood residues;
• inorganic - synthetic or natural coatings that do not decompose during use.

The first type significantly increases soil fertility. It rots after making mulch under the action of microorganisms, transforming into nutrients. As a result, plants are saturated with the necessary elements.

Inorganic coatings do not affect fertility, but protect the land from overheating, drying out, perform a decorative function, and inhibit the growth of weeds.

Types of organic mulch: features, advantages and disadvantages

Organic mulch are:

• humus;
• compost;
• hay;
• straw;
• cut grass;
• sawdust, wood chips;
• fallen cones;
• needles, spruce spruce branches;
• leaves of fruit trees;
• moss, turf;
• peat;
• cake;
• bark.

When laying materials, their characteristics and possible disadvantages must be taken into account.

Material	Properties
Sawdust, other wood waste	During decomposition, nitrogen is extracted from the soil. This trait is most pronounced in conifers. Plants begin to suffer from deficiency given element- the color of the shoots changes, the leaves wither. But this is a temporary phenomenon. It will pass as soon as the microorganisms process the cellulose. After 2-3 years of constant mulching, bacteria will be able to absorb a multi-centimeter layer of sawdust without harm to plants. To immediately reduce Negative influence, materials are mixed with bird droppings, manure, fresh grass in a ratio of 1:3. An alternative option is to regularly moisten the mulch with nitrogen-containing liquids (mullein, herbal infusion). Sawdust, bark, needles increase the acidity of the soil. This nuance can be used for good in alkaline soils. Needles and shavings repel slugs that damage crops.
Leaves of oak, birch	They contain tannins that inhibit the development of plants. It is better to give preference to greens collected from fruit trees.
Compost, manure	Accelerate soil warming. Attract worms that digest mulch.
fresh grass	Enriches the earth with nitrogen. Laying is carried out in a thin layer, after drying the raw materials in the sun, otherwise the grass will rot.
Straw	The most simple and durable material. Able to reflect light, so the temperature of the soil under it often decreases. Mulching grapes with straw is carried out exclusively on heated ground.
Moss, turf	Grow to the soil, providing a durable cover. Prevent erosion, conserve water, insulate beds.
Coal	The introduction of the material is carried out in a small volume under other coatings, having been crushed in advance. Coal dust is especially useful.
Eggshell	Has an alkaline reaction, enriches the soil with calcium. It is added to compost, manure, straw to enhance nutrition.

inorganic mulch

For shelter grapes are mainly used organic mulch. However, inorganic materials are also allowed to be used.

The latter include:

1. Coarse-grained sand - optimal for peaty-marshy soils. Maintains the optimum temperature for the development of grapes, protects from overheating and cold. The material is laid in a layer of 10 cm.
2. Pebbles, expanded clay, gravel - maintain the proper level of moisture, prevent overheating of the soil and plant roots. Often used in decorative purposes. Maintain cleanliness, give landings a well-groomed appearance. When added to heavy soil, expanded clay has a positive effect on air and water permeability.
3. Black film - perfectly retains moisture, blocks the growth of weeds. But it does not let water through, so it is worth equipping a site for implementation drip irrigation. So that the roots do not sopre, in summer time lay straw or mowed grass on top. There are two-layer films - white on top, black on the bottom. They are more suitable for cultivation.

Inorganic mulch will not affect the amount of nutrients, but it will retain moisture and kill weeds.

Soil Cover Nonwovens

In this case, spunbond (agrofibre) acts as a mulch - environmentally friendly artificial material. Has fabric structure, passes moisture. The coating can be easily removed if there is no need for it, it is characterized by practicality and convenience.

Non-woven materials are significantly superior to the film in terms of performance. They have the same benefits, but they allow moisture and oxygen to pass through.

For the winter, the vineyards are covered with agrofibre. It is more correct to fold it in half to provide protection from frost.

In early spring, the vines are treated with an 8% solution iron sulphate. With this approach:

• delay the opening of the kidneys for 2-3 weeks so that they are not damaged by frost;
• prevent the appearance of fungi and infections.

Some growers advise using a less concentrated mixture (3-5%). It will not affect the timing of blooming, but only relieve diseases.

Main characteristics of mulching technology

If the grapes are already growing on the site, then the soil is forbidden to mulch in early spring. The procedure is performed after full warm-up, when the night temperature is kept around +12 °C for 10-14 days. Optimal conditions for grape rhizome - + 28 ... + 30 ° С. If you mulch earlier, when the ground is cold, the plants will develop worse, and the likelihood of soil acidification will increase.

Rather, mulch the earth during the period when the grapes open their eyes.

Removed before the procedure. weeds, loosen and water the site, allow the earth to dry out a little.

Straw mulching

Usually straw is placed under the grapes. It is one of the most accessible and inexpensive options. Raw materials are laid out within a radius of half a meter from the seedlings, evenly distributing. The average layer thickness should be 10 cm. Later, the straw will settle to 5-6 cm.

It is necessary to spread the mulch not only in the near-trunk circle, but also at the installation site of the trellis. The greater the distance covered with straw, the better: the grower will save himself from frequent weeding and watering, the risk of developing diseases will be significantly reduced.

Dry mulch is watered to activate biological processes. Another argument in favor of the procedure is raw material the wind will not blow. You can put a couple of boards on top. After some time, a dense coating is formed, which is not afraid of adverse factors.

To cover the grapes, small particles of mulch are used: they are processed faster by microorganisms living in the soil, which has a positive effect on fertility. Some growers buy special shredders. bountiful harvest covers all expenses incurred.

This does not mean that thick branches cannot be used as mulch. They just take longer to decompose. You can find rotten material that is easier to process.

The coating is laid out in layers:

• below - propped up small material;
• in the middle - more powerful branches;
• on top - hay or withered grass.

In order for beneficial microorganisms to immediately begin to work, a little compost or manure is mixed into the mulch. Organics acts as an activator.

When using food waste, cake and silage, they act a little differently:

• activators are placed first;
• in the center - propped up raw materials;
• from above - dry materials (hay, shavings).

As the coating is processed by microorganisms, new layers are laid. Experienced growers stock up in advance necessary materials so you don't have to search all the time.

Vineyard turf

On large-scale plantations, where full mulching of the site is problematic, and special equipment No, they use a different approach. Sodding (weeding) - sowing between rows with grass. For these purposes, annual and perennial crops are used:

• meadow fescue;
• perennial or French ryegrass;
• red and white clover;
• awnless fire;
• bluegrass meadow;
• yellow alfalfa.

Grasses strengthen the slopes well, protect the soil from being washed away, prevent it from being compressed, and increase ventilation.

Mulch is laid only under the grape bush. As a material, you can use grass grown in the aisles. It is periodically mowed and laid under the vines.

Grassing also has a positive effect on the condition of the soil, improving its fertility and structure. It allows you to save on the amount of mulch and reduce labor costs.

What fertilizers are applied under organic and inorganic mulch?

When using organic coatings, the amount of nitrogen is often reduced. Under them, it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers:

• urea (50 g / 10 l of water);
• slurry (1/15);
• bird droppings (1/20);
• infusion of rotted plants (prepare 1-2 weeks until a dark brown hue appears, stirring occasionally).

Yarrow, bracken, comfrey, nettle, tops of legumes contain nitrogen and other macronutrients in the highest concentration.

The main thing is not to overdo it. An excess of nitrogen is also harmful: it reduces the resistance of plants to negative phenomena, worsens the taste characteristics of the bunches.

During the season, 2-3 top dressings are carried out every 3-4 weeks. The latter is carried out no later than July, so that the grapes ripen, and do not continue to grow green mass.

When using inorganic mulch, the earth is fertilized with both mineral and organic means. The former are introduced at the beginning of spring, the latter at the end. Experienced growers prefer formulations that contain the most beneficial compounds:

• nitrogen;
• phosphorus;
• potassium.

Compost, liquid mullein, bird droppings act as organics. Once every 2-3 years, they can be planted into the soil to a depth of 30 cm without mixing the layers.

The use of mulch has a beneficial effect on soil quality. Knowledge of the characteristics of the materials will allow you to create a coating that is useful for grapes. No need to wait for an instant result, but very soon the plants will respond to positive changes and bring delicious bunches of berries to the gardener.

Experienced winegrowers mulch the vineyard before planting it, filling the row-spacing with a layer of 20-30 cm. Thanks to this, the seedlings can be watered less often, and you will forget about weeding. Not every weed can break through such a mulch.

In the spring, the mulch is raked and waited for the soil to warm up. The signal for this will be the rapid growth of shoots on the bushes. Then the mulch is stretched again. If there are problems with straw, you can not mulch the entire vineyard, but simply cover around the seedling within a radius of half a meter with a layer of more than 5 cm. If there is a lot of straw, then it is better to mulch the entire vineyard. It does not matter if at first the layer is thin - then add the thickness.

You can also mulch with grass, which then grows. As the layer of mulch builds up, it will grow worse and worse. If the mulch is dry, water it first. So it is easier to place over the area, and the processes will be launched. It is best to water it with a solution of urea: 1 match. boxes of 10 liters of water. Then the grapes will suffer less from nitrogen starvation. It is also important that the wet straw is not swept away by the wind.

The finer the mulch, the faster the inhabitants of the soil will take it in. In this regard, the most short-lived are sawdust and husks. If you get cake after a juicer or churn, it’s better to make a “sandwich” - cake from below, straw or other dry mulch from above.

It is useful to mix sawdust and straw with raw tops of herbs and evenly distribute such a salad in the aisles of the vineyard. It is useful to moisten the mulch several times a season with a solution of mullein.

By the way, a bale of straw costs only 200-400 rubles. But, unfortunately, it is very difficult to deliver it to the site, unload and roll it without breaking anything. Therefore, this valuable tool for soil mulching is not very popular with us.

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In this article we will consider: mulching with coniferous cones and needles. Let's figure out why to carry out mulching. Find out which crops are best to mulch.

Coniferous cones and needles are not only an excellent organic material for fertilizer, but also a mulch. In order to properly mulch the beds, you need to know for which crops mulching with coniferous cones and needles is suitable, and for which plants it is not.

Benefits of using pine needles as mulch

For mulching beds, spruce and pine needles, juniper, fir and cedar needles, as well as pine, spruce and cedar cones are used. Read also the article: → "". The benefits of using needles for mulching are as follows:

• the mulch is dense, evenly falls on the beds, but does not compact the soil;
• is not blown away by the wind and does not get wet;
• repels slugs and snails;
• it has bactericidal properties, therefore it protects against diseases and pests;
• does not violate the natural air and moisture exchange, the earth breathes and quickly warms up under a layer of mulch;
• increases soil fertility;
• accelerates the development and growth of crops.

[Press] Find out the super advantage of pine needles as mulch!

Unlike other types of mulch (even pine needles), cones are among the most durable!

Council number 1. If the needles are used for the winter, then a layer of leaf litter or rotted manure is placed under it. This will provide nutrition to the soil.

Mulching with pine cones and needles: the benefits of using cones as mulch

Spruce needles contain calcium, magnesium, manganese and zinc

Spruce or pine cones can be equated with wood mulch. The advantages of using the following:

• prevent the appearance of a crust on the soil surface;
• repel water;
• protect from wind and sun;
• prevent the germination of weeds;
• do not violate natural circulation air;
• support normal temperature regime: in winter, under a layer of mulch, it remains warm, and in summer - cool.

The disadvantages of mulching with cones include their inaccessibility. It is easier to mulch the soil with cut grass or leaf litter than to collect a few bags of cones in the forest.

Under a layer of mulch from cones, the culture is protected from overheating and freezing.. Cones are placed in the aisles or on top berry crops with the onset of hot weather.

In the table we offer a comparison of cone mulch with other types of organic mulch.

Type of mulch	Comparison with pine cone mulch	Disadvantages of mulch
	It has a neutral reaction, when it rots, it saturates the soil with nutrients, more useful as a fertilizer than cones. Suitable for growing seedlings.	—
	Saturates the soil useful substances suitable for mulching in winter.	It is advisable to use mixed with straw.
	High content of nitrogen and trace elements.	—
Fallen leaves	It has good air and water permeability, as well as cones.	When wet, it quickly rots. Attracts slugs and snails.
Straw (⊗ )	Unlike cones, suitable for everyone vegetable crops, also rots slowly and saturates the soil with useful substances.	May contain weed seeds.
cut grass	Does not acidify the soil, unlike cones, and is organic fertilizer improves soil structure.	AT rainy weather when used for berry crops, the fruits rot. Allows overheating of the soil and can poorly pass water and air.
	Suitable for growing vegetable seedlings.	Acidifies the soil.
Wood bark and sawdust (⊗ )	The material is more accessible for use, rots for a long time. It is advisable to apply for the winter.	They take nitrogen from the soil.
Coniferous needles	They rot faster and acidify the soil to a greater extent than cones.	Strongly acidify the soil.

I do not use pine cones near buildings or barbecues. Mulch is flammable, for safety, mulch beds away from living quarters. When choosing cones, pay attention to their appearance. Green cone-shaped fruits various stains on the surface are not suitable for use. They may contain fungal spores, which are sources of fungal diseases on garden plot.

Using pine litter as mulch

Pine litter contains branches, cones, needles and small pieces of bark. It is looser, rots faster and saturates the soil with useful substances.

Pine litter is preferable to use on poor lands

The advantage of using pine litter is to change the structure of the soil, it becomes loose, air and moisture permeable.

Council number 2. With regular use of pine litter, the acidity of the soil increases greatly, so it is mixed with fallen leaves or straw. Ashes are brought in every two years, and in autumn dolomite flour, suitable flour production "Dubensky quarry".

They love acidic soils coniferous plants, some garden flowers and berry bushes. For example, rhododendrons improve growth and develop faster when pine litter is added directly to the soil. 30% of the litter is buried in the ground, and 70% is used as mulch.

When growing cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and other vegetable crops that prefer slightly acidic soils, first sprinkle the ground with ash, and then lay the mulch. Pine litter is not used for growing seedlings..

Coniferous cones and needles are not only a good mulch, but also an excellent fertilizer. So that the mulch does not strongly acidify the soil, it is used in combination with organic matter. The mulch is mixed with fallen leaves, compost, hay, grass clippings or plant debris. Pine and spruce litter is more suitable for winter shelter soil from rodents and frost. Mulch is combined with non-woven covering materials, for example, lutrasil or organic matter (compost, or sawdust).

What crops are needle mulching used for?

Mulch	cultures	It is not advisable to mulch
spruce needles	Raspberries, blueberries, cranberries, grapes, prunes, cherries, cherry plums, Walnut. From vegetables legumes, greens (sorrel, spinach), tomatoes, potatoes.	Cabbage, beets, peppers, parsnips, celery, asparagus, tulips, peonies and viburnum.
pine needles	Suitable for the above crops and fruit and berry trees, as well as for strawberries and onions.
Pine cones	Remontant strawberries and wild strawberries.
fir cones	Strawberries, cucumbers and tomatoes.
Pine litter	Hydrangea, rhododendrons, strawberries, roses, ornamental plants and garden flowers. From the bushes blueberries, lingonberries, cranberries.

To apply coniferous mulch to other crops, the needles are placed in a compost heap to deacidify, and then applied to the beds. Pine needles acidify the soil less than spruce, so it is more often used by gardeners.

How to mulch with pine cones and pine needles?

Pine needles mulch paths in the garden from weeds

Since the cones let moisture through, they water the crops on top of the mulch, if necessary. hot weather. Despite the presence of mulch, crops need nutrients, because cones and needles contain a small amount of useful components. The following fertilizers are used:

1. Humatized fertilizer "Hera for strawberries and wild strawberries". Fertilize berry crops in spring and feed in summer. In the spring they pour it under the bushes, and in the summer they make foliar top dressing by sheet;
2. liquid complex fertilizer for vegetable cultures Dobroya sila "Vegetable No. 1 universal". Suitable for vegetables, fruit trees and bushes. Contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and humic acids. From 3.5 liters of solution, up to 300 buckets of fertilizer are obtained;
3. Mineral fertilizer "Windsor for vegetables". Suitable for foliar top dressing throughout the growing season;
4. Organo-mineral fertilizer "Fertika". Granular fertilizer is particularly suitable for poor soils. Contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and humates. For 1 sq.m. contribute 40-50 g of the product, consumption for foliar top dressing - 20-40 g / 10 l of water. .

Fresh needles are not used, only rotted

When mulching with needles, root and foliar top dressings are suitable. Only the first ones are used before mulching. On the beds, pine and larch needles are used, spruce needles are not used, since it quickly rots.

Before mulching, loosen the soil, remove weeds and water crops if the ground is dry. Then a layer of mulch is laid with a thickness of 7 to 15 cm. Under the trees and bushes, the layer is thicker, on vegetable beds- about 7 cm. After harvesting, the mulch is removed.

Strawberries and strawberries can also be mulched for the winter, but in the spring they remove the needles and loosen the soil. To protect against frost and weeds, mulch with a layer of 3 cm.

Experience in the use of pine and spruce needles in the garden

Every year mulching with needles is becoming more and more popular. Needles and cones are used for vegetable and berry crops. Consider in the table the effectiveness of the use of needles for different crops.

Type of culture	Type of mulch	Result
Tomatoes	Pine and spruce needles mixed with wood ash.	Acceleration of growth and entry into fruiting, disease resistance, increased yield.
strawberries	Spruce needles combined with compost and sand in equal proportions.	Increased yield by 1.5 times, absence of pests and diseases, large size of berries and improved taste.
Potato	Spruce needles combined with compost and tree bark in equal proportions.	Absence of pests, removal of scab even from infected tubers.
Onion	Coniferous needles and cones.	loose soil, high humidity, lack of weeds, increase in onion yield (from 1 kg planting material managed to get 40 kg of onions).
Garlic	Landings cover for the winter pine needles Don't clean the mulch until harvest.	Moisture is retained, the soil is loose, there are no weeds.

Answers to common questions

When mulching, whole or crushed cones are used.

Question #1. What fertilizers can be used with needle mulch?

Answer: In the summer, the mulch is mixed with humus, compost, or spilled with an infusion of mustard and nettle. In autumn, the land is fertilized with manure or green manure is used. For the winter, the plot is sown with mustard or cereals (rye or rye). The earth after green fertilizer becomes loose and soft, like fluff.

Question #2. When to plant cones for strawberries and strawberries, in autumn or spring?

Answer: It makes no sense to lay cones in autumn or early spring, as soon as the snow has melted. The soil must dry out so that pests do not start under the layer of mulch and diseases do not multiply. As soon as the soil dries out enough, the leaves and ovary of the strawberry will appear, then the cones should be laid. The layer is about 10 cm. If you need to mulch the antennae, then the layer thickness is reduced.

Question #3. Can needles and cones be reused next year?

Answer: Yes. If the cones and needles are not saturated with moisture, the rotting of the mulch has not begun, then in the fall they are put in bags and stored until spring in a dry room.

Question #4. Is it true that ants often start in the mulch of their needles?

Answer: The relationship between spruce mulch and the appearance of ants in the garden has not been fully studied, but one thing is known for sure. Together from the needles and cones from the forest they bring forest ants, which, unlike garden ones, will dig through the entire plot. Be vigilant when collecting coniferous litter.

Gardeners' mistakes in mulching with coniferous needles and cones

Common Mistakes:

1. Gardeners use pine needles as mulch for all crops on the site. Coniferous cones and needles acidify the soil, so they are not used for crops that prefer an alkaline reaction. There are other types of mulch, such as straw and fallen leaves, which in no way affect the acidity of the soil;
2. Gardeners leave mulch on the plot all year round. This can not be done if the acidity of the soil is high. The needles are removed from the site in August, and the beds are covered again in early spring. In autumn, worms process needles, which causes the earth to become acidic;
3. Together with coniferous litter, which is used as mulch for currants, strawberries, gooseberries, apple trees and others fruit trees go over fungal diseases: rust, mold, root rot and others. Diseases coniferous trees switches to horticultural crops therefore, before use, the mulch is spilled with any fungicide, for example, Aktoverm or Fitoverm.

Hello dear visitor!

Now the time has come when the mulch under the vines can harm the annual vines that have grown this year, so it naturally needs to be removed from under the bushes.

What harm can mulch a one year old growth?

Well, it's simple. The mulch lying under the grape bushes does not allow the soil to dry out, and therefore, the pressure of the juice (due to the constant soil moisture) does not decrease.

And if the pressure does not decrease juice in the plant, then the annual shoots continue to grow. And they can grow until the very frosts, but ...

But it is important for us so that the growth we need on the grape bush ripens by winter and successfully overwinter, so that next year this growth gives either a signal crop, or continues its growth to the formation we need.

In fact, there are a lot of grape bush formations, but I'm mostly on my own suburban area I form bushes into a “four-armed fan”. You can learn about my formations and see them if you click on the heading "Grapes in the country" (in the right column of the blog). True, there you need to get an access code to posts, but everything is simple there ...

Since I have bushes of different ages, then on some bushes the formation is coming to an end, that is, both sleeves and fruit vines have grown this year, and on others it (formation) is only at the initial stage.

But there's no difference at what stage of formation are the bushes. The main thing is that the annual vines involved in the formation have matured to the length we need.

So, on those bushes, where the formation is completed this year, I need these same fruit vines and sleeves to ripen for the onset of winter. Otherwise green areas annual vines that come in the right length of sleeve or fruit vine will freeze to death during the first autumn frosts.

And to the desired length annual growth has matured, it is necessary to lower the pressure of the juice inside the plant. And to lower the juice pressure, you need to lower the soil moisture. And to lower soil moisture, you need to remove mulch from under the grape bushes.

Just? Yes, elementary!

There is only one caveat- remove the mulch from under the bushes or not.

This is also easy to figure out. If by the end of August or the beginning of September the layer of mulch under the bushes is thin and through it the sun dries the soil freely, then it is not necessary to remove the mulch.

What's the point of wasting energy and time to clean the mulch, if the soil is already drying out.

But if the layer of mulch is thin, but not loose (not translucent), then it is necessary to remove such a mulch so that the soil begins to dry out, as a result of which the vine begins to ripen to the length we need.

Look here under the bush lies hay (not straw, but hay). In its structure, hay is much denser than straw, because dry blades of grass are thinner than straws, as a result of which they fit more closely together.

This is a shrub of the variety"Hope Aksaiskaya" ...

And this is the Sophia variety. This year, the formation of the bush has been completed, and even on one vine there is a signal cluster ...

And since this season under all the vines I had hay, then I had to rake this mulch out from under all the bushes.

No, it's not hard work. but it takes a lot of time. But now I am calm that the vines of the required length will ripen by winter.

raked the hay small children's rakes and put it in buckets so that it would be more convenient to carry it to another place. The large garden rake is too wide and difficult to work with.

Here are the pictures below mulch cleaning result...

And this general form two bushes without mulch ...

From under the apple trees currants, gooseberries and honeysuckle, I did not remove the mulch, because straw lay under them this season, and by this time almost the entire layer had been processed by soil inhabitants and the sun dries the soil through these remnants of straw.

And everything would be fine only under a few vines did I discover the "celestials" when I raked up the hay. Guessed what "celestials" are we talking about?

Well, of course, about the slugs ...

They are already ready for the winter. and gathered in small groups, like, hang out a bit before “hibernation”, discuss what they will eat next season, well, and at rest. And then I, with my rake ... disturbed ...

Well, I did not stand on ceremony with them for a long time, and immediately sprinkled them with powder, which I have been using for a couple of years to protect vegetables. They roamed for a couple of minutes and “fell asleep” forever.

And here is the picture I took when I removed the boards from the old one from the site wooden fence. The son did not have time to saw these boards for firewood, and they lay along one vine bush.

And me, to approach the bush, it was necessary to remove these boards. When I removed the last board, which lay at the very bottom (flat on the ground), an “oil painting” appeared before my eyes ...

And this "army" I also treated them with powder and after a couple of minutes they stopped moving, and after 15-20 minutes they dried up under the sun.

No I don't by any means I do not gloat at their death, only I have no choice.

Or don't touch them. and then in next year they will mercilessly devour the leaves and berries on the vines.

Or send them to the forefathers and greatly reduce their number not only under the vines, but throughout the area as a whole.

In this season, it will be the third year since I use the powder, with the help of which I effectively protect all vegetables that are encroached by slugs during the season and now only we get the entire crop.

Here, take a look for the first selective harvest of Sasha daikon, the seeds of which I sowed in the middle of summer ...

Do not sprinkle with powder along the edge of the plot and between the rows of young seedlings, then there would be nothing to show. And so all the plants in the plot were saved, and the slugs got "shish with butter", and we got the daikon!

And look, when we brought the daikon home, I checked it for nitrates ...

Right on the towel daikon roots are lying ...

Here's a closer if you couldn't see...

On the device of such a vegetable, like a daikon, no, so I chose the closest relative - a radish ...

Shortly speaking, eat boldly - the product is environmentally friendly!

Don't know, whether you need material on "Protecting vegetables from slugs and snails" or not, decide for yourself.

But in general, this material was published in the blog "Laboratory of Additional Materials" under the heading "Protection of vegetables from slugs and snails" - http://secretpage.dacha7.ru/category/slizni

If anyone is interested this material, then you can get access to this section immediately after payment. You can pay different ways here on this page - http://slizni.dacha7.ru/

I can also accept payment. to your Sberbank card. To do this, send me an email to this email address - [email protected]- and indicate this payment method ...

And of course not necessarily spend money on this material, or you can experiment yourself with different means from slugs and choose a worthy option for yourself!

I also experimented for several years, looking for some effective remedy from slugs? Well, here I found it. Now I am calm about my vegetables, flowers and perennials.

Here, perhaps and that's it for today.

But I have a question for you:“At what time (at what time) of the season do you remove mulch from perennial crops?”

your observations, Suggestions, questions and developments write in the comments to this post.

Allow me to bow out on this.

Goodbye.

Best wishes,
Sergey Dyakov.