Is it possible to propagate conifers by layering. Secrets of successful propagation of coniferous cuttings
A long time ago, when I was still studying at the university, chic Cossack juniper bushes grew in front of the main building, and I really wanted the same to be in my garden. And just at that time we listened to a course of lectures on dendrology, where we were told that cuttings from conifers must be taken at the end of June from the middle part of the crown. What I did, I tore off the cutting and just put it in the water, and a month later my “prickly pet” had roots.
Now, almost 10 years later, it grows in my garden, has become quite large and looks more beautiful every year. But such a trick took place only with juniper, other conifers did not want to take root so easily, and I wanted to know why, what was the reason.
Cuttings of conifers: there are nuances
Indeed, the rooting of conifers is not an easy process and is often very lengthy, sometimes it takes a whole year, and sometimes more than one, for, for example, pine or spruce cuttings to take root. But you have to wait so long if you do not use any root formation stimulants. Various preparations come to the rescue to stimulate root formation and everything becomes much easier.
To quickly get high-quality rooted cuttings, it is important to maintain correct temperature, soil and air humidity and root in the optimal substrate. Everything is the same as in other cultures. But since this process coniferous plants difficult, then the cuttings must be kept in closed ground, where there is an opportunity, at least minimally, but to observe right conditions. It is also important to choose right plants from which you will cut the cuttings, and pick up the best time for cutting and rooting. In general, there are many nuances, first things first.
Do not forget that the rooting of different species and varieties is different. So, the easiest way for vegetative propagation is thuja, juniper. But with spruces and hemlocks you have to tinker. Pines, firs and larches - they generally do not lend themselves to cuttings.
The right choice of mother liquor is also important, that is, the plant from which you will cut the cuttings. It must be an adult, well-developed specimen, not diseased or debilitated. Adult, but not old, it is best to choose 4-8 years old. Do not forget about what part of the crown we will take cuttings from. It all depends on what kind or variety you have - creeping, columnar ...
In columnar and pyramidal specimens, cuttings are cut from shoots in the center of the crown. If you take cuttings from the side of the crown from such plants, you will most likely get sprawling specimens. But creeping, spherical ones do not
hard edges, you can cut from any part, in this case it is better to cut from a well-developed part, fully lit by the sun.
The correct time for cutting cuttings is half, probably, the key to success. The beginning of spring, as well as the period from mid-June to mid-July, is a good period.
In the first case, after winter and dormancy, active sap flow begins in plants, cuttings are cut in cloudy weather, in the morning, they take root this year. In the second case, this procedure is also carried out in cloudy weather and in the morning, but rooting occurs next year.
We cut cuttings from conifers
Now let's talk about the cuttings themselves, what they should be. Since rooting in conifers is a long process, it is better not to cut off too thin shoots, they will simply be exhausted and, most likely, will die, even before the roots begin to grow. But too thick should not be used. Most often, annual shoots up to 10-15 cm long are taken for these purposes. If the species or variety grows rapidly, cuttings up to 3 cm long can be cut. Cuttings - with a heel - root well, that is, with a piece of old wood at the base. They are not even cut off, but torn off with a rather sharp downward movement. Standard cuttings are cut with a knife or secateurs, always clean and sharp. All lateral small twigs and needles are removed from the bottom.
Rooting
After the cutting is ready, it must be placed in the substrate as soon as possible. I don’t advise water, I’m most likely lucky, the juniper has taken root, but water contributes to blockage of the vessels with the released resin. Before planting, the cuttings are dipped into the solution or powdered with any root formation stimulant (according to the instructions on the package) - these can be Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Root and others.
Next, the cuttings are placed in boxes with a substrate, as they will spend there long time carefully preparing their new home. Not bad conifers take root in a mixture in the same proportions of peat (better than riding), sand and garden soil. They contain cuttings at a temperature of 21-24 ° C and high humidity - up to 95%.
It is important that during the rooting period the air temperature is not a few degrees lower than the soil temperature, since in this case there is an influx of nutrients from the aerial part to the roots, which is what the plants need at this stage. At first, you can use a special small greenhouse for seedlings or cover the cuttings glass jars or film. As soon as new shoots begin to appear on the plant, it means that it has taken root.
Cuttings in boxes are placed not vertically, but at an angle of 45 °, to a depth of 1 to 5 cm. Between them, 5 cm in a row and up to 20 cm between rows is enough. After planting, they are carefully watered and covered (with a jar, installed in a mini-greenhouse, etc.). So that they do not die, watch the cuttings, they need constant attention. The soil should always be kept moist, but not too much so that they do not rot. Periodically, plants can be sprayed with "Epinom-Extra" or HB-101.
After the cuttings have started to grow, they can be gradually opened and hardened. to plant on permanent place young plants can be best case next year. And optimally - leave for another 2-3 years for growing.
Annual growth
There is no need to be upset if, after planting in the ground in a permanent place, young coniferous plants practically do not grow. This is absolutely normal. Growth in the first two years is usually very weak. So. for example, for a pine, an increase of only 5 cm per year is considered normal. spruce - 8 cm, larch - 12 cm, and juniper - 15 cm.
Cuttings are the most productive way vegetative propagation coniferous plants, allowing you to get the largest number planting material from one mother copy. Provided that the cutting is taken correctly, this method guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics and characteristics of the mother plant. Reproduction and loses according to these parameters to cuttings.
When choosing a cutting, you need to focus on a number of rules. So, the rooting of conifers largely depends on their species. In particular, cuttings, capitate yew and p0docarp root much easier than cuttings, for example, or. Cuttings of most representatives of the Pine family (pine, spruce, fir) are difficult or impossible to root.
Juniper rocky, young specimen
It is easiest to root cuttings taken from young varietal plants that are in the juvenile stage of development. You should not try to root cuttings cut from "wild" species and from old plants.
Quite easily, cuttings of varieties with a compact dense crown take root. Grown in room conditions coniferous cuttings are better than street specimens.
For rooting, it is better to choose weak, thin and side shoots than strong and upright. Poorly rooted cuttings taken from powerfully developed, overfed specimens.
It is best to root the cuttings in a special bed under a tunnel greenhouse or in a shaded greenhouse with high air humidity and a temperature in the range of 15 to 25 ° C. You can place the cuttings directly in the ground or in shallow boxes that are filled with a loose, well-drained, well-aerated substrate.
Coarse washed sand is suitable as a substrate. It can be mixed with perlite in a ratio of 1:1 or with high-moor sour peat (3:1). Also, vermiculite, crushed sphagnum and small pieces of coniferous bark can be used as additives to the substrate for rooting conifers.
Juniper cuttings with a heel
The prepared substrate is poured onto a ridge or into boxes with a layer of 5-8 cm and rammed. Then chopped cuttings are fixed in it. If cuttings take place in boxes, then drainage should be provided there.
The optimal period for cutting most conifers is spring, before or at the very beginning of bud awakening. Perhaps summer cuttings. In this case, it is carried out after the end of the first wave of growth and hardening of young shoots (in late June - early July). However, in this case, the cuttings often do not have time to form roots, only callus (educational tissue on the wound surface) is formed on them. Such cuttings hibernate only if there is shelter, which is not always easy to provide.
Callus on a juniper cutting.
The optimum temperature for rooting conifers is from 20 to 23 ° C. Moreover, during spring cuttings, it is first necessary to maintain a lower temperature (15-18 ° C). At this level, it should remain until the beginning of bud break. And only then the temperature is raised to 20-23 ° C. Temperatures above 25 ° C have a bad effect on the formation of roots in cuttings.
For more effective rooting, lower heating can be recommended, when the temperature of the substrate is raised by 1 - 2 ° C above the air temperature. The most appropriate bottom heating when rooting cuttings taken in the spring. Shanks must be shaded from straight sun rays, you can cover them with spandbond, paper or other suitable materials.
In nurseries, coniferous cuttings are rooted in greenhouses with fogging installations, since the presence of water droplets in the air has a positive effect on rooting.
Excessive waterlogging of the soil should be avoided. Excess moisture leads to the death of the cuttings, because it does not allow them to receive air from the soil. It's better to dry it out a bit than to flood it.
Rooted cuttings of juniper
extremely important right choice cuttings in cultivated forms of coniferous plants. In varieties with a columnar and narrow pyramidal crown, only straight shoots are taken, tending upwards, but by no means the most powerful shoots. In creeping varieties, any, but not vertical, shoots are cut into cuttings. For plants with spreading, oval or spherical crown the choice of cutting is not essential.
At spring breeding shoots-growths of the last year are used as cuttings, and for summer cuttings, lignified shoots of the current year are used.
If you can’t immediately plant the cuttings, you can wrap them in a damp cloth and keep them in the refrigerator. Long term storage at constant humidity, in principle, it is possible, but undesirable. Do not leave cuttings in water.
In the lower part of the cutting, the needles are removed so that during rooting it does not rot. This does not damage the bark. It is useful that the cuttings were with a “heel” - they had a small piece of bark with wood at the base. If the “heel” is too long, then it is carefully trimmed. The size of the cuttings may vary, depending on the size and vigor of the propagated specimen.
Good results are obtained by the use of growth stimulants. So, before planting, the base of the cutting can be moistened with water and powdered with Kornevin.
The cut cuttings place the substrate. To do this, with a stick slightly thicker than a pencil at an angle of 60-70 °, a recess is made in the soil, into which the cutting is inserted, pressing it tightly against the substrate. It is very important to keep the original orientation of the cuttings - the upper (outer) side should remain on top.
Spring cuttings can take root by mid-summer, summer - only by the end of autumn. But sometimes rooting is delayed, and at the site of the cut, only a thickening of the wound tissue, the callus, is formed.
It should be remembered that the greatest danger when rooting cuttings of conifers is a combination of a number of adverse factors: sudden changes in temperature, high humidity substrate and dry air. The key to success when cutting is high humidity, moderate humidity of a clean, loosened substrate, even temperature and sufficient diffused light.
Well-rooted cuttings of northern conifers winter normally without shelter. Weakly rooted or live cuttings that have not given roots can overwinter under air-dry shelter. A box or wire frame is installed above them, on which the covering material is pulled. Cuttings of southern conifers overwinter in bright, cool, frost-free rooms.
It is impossible to imagine a modern estate without coniferous plants. If earlier, far from every dacha, one could see a lonely " Christmas tree", today, thanks to the widest range offered garden centers, conifers have become an indispensable component of a garden mixborder and an invariable decoration of any site. True, many are faced with the fact that the price of coniferous planting material, compared with deciduous shrubs and trees, a little higher and not always available to ordinary summer residents. Having mastered the simple methods of propagating coniferous plants, everyone can replenish their collection with new varieties and decorate their site with them.
In this way, you can get a large number of plants to create, coniferous arrays or strengthen the slopes.
In addition to seed (generative) propagation, which, as is known, is not used for varietal plants, since it does not preserve in in full parental properties, conifers are propagated using cuttings and grafting (propagation by grafting is practiced if cuttings are difficult to obtain standard forms). The easiest way that gives a quick result is cuttings with semi-lignified and lignified cuttings.
What types of conifers can be propagated by cuttings?
It's good to know that different types and even varieties of the same species can be propagated with more or less success. Representatives of the Cypress families (Cupressaceae) - thuja, microbiota, cypress, tuevik and Yew (Tahaseae) are most easily cut by cuttings. Representatives of pine (Pináceae) cuttings are very difficult to cut: spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock. It is almost impossible to propagate by cuttings, fir and larch, for them seed propagation and grafting are just used.
How to choose a mother liquor?
For a good result, it is also necessary to take into account a number of factors, since the violation of only one of them can nullify all previous work.
First you need to choose the right mother liquor - mature plant from which you are going to cut the cuttings. Shoots taken from young, actively growing specimens 4-8 years old take root best of all. In plants older than 10 years, the ability to root is reduced.
It is useful to know that the location on the crown matters mother plant shoots intended for cutting into cuttings. In creeping and bush conifers, the place where the cutting is taken does not play a role, you can choose the most developed part, well-lit by the sun (especially in variegated varieties). From and pyramidal plants for cuttings take shoots of the first or third order in the center of the crown. Seedlings from such cuttings will be guaranteed to retain the shape of the crown of the parent variety. On the other hand, knowing this property, one can obtain sprawling or almost creeping specimens of spruce or yew, using lateral, horizontally growing branches for cuttings.
cutting time
It is also important to choose the right time for cutting cuttings. The beginning of spring is considered the most successful. After winter cooling and relative rest at the very beginning of sap flow, it is better in cloudy weather and early in the morning, when it is still not hot and there are no drying winds. Harvested in early spring cuttings will take root this year. During summer cuttings, at the beginning of lignification and hardening of the young, only callus is formed in the first year, and the roots - in next year. It is also possible to carry out cuttings after the end of active growth and the beginning of lignification of shoots in August or with lignified shoots in September-November, then rooting will occur only next year.
cutting cutting technology
Not all cuttings are suitable for rooting. Since the formation of callus and coniferous roots lasts from several months to a year or more, cuttings that are too thin and weak will be depleted and die long before rooting. Depending on the type of plant, annual lateral shoots about 5-15 cm long are taken for cuttings. In vigorous forms of thuja and cypress, cuttings can be 20-30 cm, and in junipers, a little more. Well rooted shoots with a "heel" (part of the wood previous year), which are not cut off from the parent branch, but are torn off with a sharp downward movement, capturing part of last year's wood (too long “tail” of the bark can then be cut off with a knife).
More often, the cuttings are cut with a knife or a sharp pruner, making a cut 0.5-1 cm below the beginning of the lignification site, which can be seen from the transition from green to brown. From the bottom of the cutting (2.5-4 cm from the base or approximately 2/3), all needles and small lateral branches are removed. The wounds formed on the shoot when they are cut off also stimulate root formation. Try not to damage the apical point of growth at the cutting, otherwise the seedling will grow strongly in the future, especially in golden forms.
prostrate and creeping junipers for reproduction, 2-3 summer shoots can be used, digging them in sand or loose breathable soil for 2/3 of the length. They take root quite quickly (1.5-2 months) and by the end of the season you can get a small bush.
Pre-landing preparation
Chopped cuttings of conifers should be planted in the ground as soon as possible. They are usually not put into water, so that the vessels do not become clogged with escaping resin. If you need to store the cuttings for some time, it is better to sprinkle them with water, wrap them in a damp cloth and place them in a bag in a cool place.
Harvested cuttings can be dipped for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator, even better powder powder the cut before planting in the ground. Various preparations containing salts of beta-indolylacetic acid (IAA), heteroauxin, Kornevin (salts of beta-indolyl-butyric acid), salts are used as root formation stimulants. succinic acid(YAK), Root, Ribav + micrassa, etc. There is evidence that prolonged exposure of conifers in aqueous solutions provokes exfoliation of the bark, therefore, the use of powders for dusting is recommended.
There is also one interesting trick: at the end of the cutting, longitudinal cuts are made with the sharp end of the knife or the base is split to a depth of up to 1 cm, so that a large surface of the cambium is exposed, the cells of which form roots more easily.
Where and how does rooting take place?
Rooting cuttings can take from several months to a year, so it is important to choose and carefully prepare a place for planting harvested cuttings. Best results can be achieved by planting the cuttings in boxes with loose, air-intensive soil, for example, in a mixture of sand, coniferous soil and high-moor deoxidized peat in a ratio of 1:1:1, which are placed in or in a greenhouse. The best conditions air and substrate temperatures are considered to be 21-24°C and relative humidity air 95-100%. The soil temperature for medium and hard-rooted species (thuja, cypress, yew, spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock) should be 3-5 ° C higher than the air temperature. Low temperature and high humidity can cause the cuttings to rot. In warm rack greenhouses with electric heating and fogging installations, the rooting and quality of planting material is 15-25% higher than in cold greenhouses.
In a greenhouse or greenhouse support perfect cleanliness, preventing the formation of moss, ventilate, remove plant debris and dead cuttings. Periodically, plantings are treated with a fungicide solution to prevent decay.
If there are few cuttings, at home you can use a mini-greenhouse or cover the containers with glass jars, film or plastic bottles cut in half. Also, cuttings are planted in prepared beds in a protected, semi-shady place.
For successful rooting, cuttings need diffused light that is intense enough for photosynthesis and the formation in the needles of a special phytohormone necessary for root formation.
Planting cuttings of conifers
First you need to make a hole with a wooden peg, and then insert the cutting vertically or at an angle of 45-50 °, depending on the type of mother plant, morphologically with the upper side of the shoot up, tightly compressing the soil around the cutting. The depth of planting depends on the size of the cutting and the breed. More often planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm to 2.5-5 cm. The distance between cuttings in rows is 4-7 cm, between rows is 5-10 cm. After planting, the bed is carefully watered through a fine sieve, trying to wet all layers of soil , cover with a frame and shade.
Cutting Care
Planted cuttings require constant care before rooting. Plantings are regularly watered, however, avoiding overflow and stagnation of moisture. The soil should be moderately moist and breathable. A greenhouse or greenhouse needs to be ventilated, and in warm weather plantings are sprayed with water, avoiding overheating above 30 ° C. Periodically, the bed is watered with solutions of fungicide and epin.
Some time after planting, callus (from Latin callus - callus) begins to appear in the lower part of the cutting - a tissue neoplasm on wound surfaces (cracks, incisions, at the base of the cuttings, etc.), which promotes wound healing, consisting of parenchymal cells, having the shape influx (sometimes in the form of a thin layer or "curd"). Then roots appear. However, even with a strong callus, the cuttings may not develop roots and eventually die. Rooting begins in 3-4 months, but the timing is different for different breeds. After the rooting of the cuttings and the formation of growths, the greenhouses begin to gradually open slightly for hardening of young plants. In summer, root formation may slow down, and in September it will continue again.
In junipers, roots form before shoots, in pine, both shoots and roots, and in spruce and larch, shoots first, and then only roots. Callus in spruces and pines appears in the first year, and roots only in the second.
Disembarkation to a permanent place
It is clear that the rooting conditions differ from the requirements of adult plants. Therefore, cuttings are rooted and young plants are grown in a special protected place, then, if desired, they can be placed in containers and only the next year they can be planted in a permanent place according to the requirements and habitus of the species and variety. Also, young plants can be left for growing for another 2-3 years, since it is after transplants that the greatest number of attacks often occurs.
We hope our advice will be useful to all novice gardeners and will help make your estates even more beautiful and comfortable.
Victoria Roy
landscape designer
specially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"
To decorate the territory, landscape designers often use coniferous trees in their compositions. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers belong to evergreen plants, the decorativeness of the site remains all year round.
Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.
Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the ground and can reach there nutrients for the tree, the green beauty grows like a fertile lands as well as in sandy and rocky areas. Only a few species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine varieties has an increased sensitivity to air pollution.
Popular varieties of pine:
- Aristotle pine. It's perennial evergreen tree with bushy top, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. Rarely used in decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has beautiful small buds.
- White pine is mainly found in Japan. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a straight and graceful trunk and a few branches densely covered with long needles. In height, it can reach 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by the fact that the lower part of the needles is painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
- White pine. This variety is widely distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low perennial tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the place of growth and soil and responds well to smoke and air pollution. Therefore, it can often be found in parks and city gardens.
- Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantings, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the soil, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.
When choosing a pine planting site, there are several points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. Therefore, it must be planted on well-lit lands with good drainage system without groundwater flow.
To soil composition pine is not demanding, but it is desirable that there is a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the ground and, if necessary, add the required amount when digging.
When preparing a hole, you can lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix soddy soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.
Basically, all adult specimens of pines tolerate winter and frost well. But young trees with delicate needles are recommended to be insulated for the cold season. To do this, you can use spruce or other comfortable materials. To prevent diseases in the soil and on trees, it is recommended to regularly remove fallen needles under the trees. This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.
Pine reproduces with the help of seeds, grafting and. For the first method, you need to take a mature cone and get the grains out of it. This can be done by placing it in a paper bag, which in turn is placed in a warm place. Shake the container with the contents periodically. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.
Before planting, they are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in autumn period. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room. The air temperature is maintained within 1-5 degrees of heat. It can be a basement or any other cool room.
In the spring, containers are brought into warm room, and the soil is sifted, taking out the seeds.
They are sown again in prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be constantly wet, for this it is necessary to periodically water it with a spray bottle with soft water at a temperature environment. When shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution. Throughout the season, sprouts are being taken care of, young growth can be planted only by autumn, and for the winter they can be insulated with spruce branches.
When cuttings, all the signs of the mother plant are preserved.
This is one of the most convenient ways to propagate conifers, in which a large amount of source material can be taken from one tree. But propagation by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and when improper care you can lose all the seedlings.
Pine cuttings:
- carried out in the spring and to obtain the source material choose young tree grown not in wild environment. Young annual branches are selected that grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
- In order for all resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, and then process them disinfectants. To enhance root growth, it is necessary to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
- A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The soil should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with sand and soddy soil in equal proportions.
- The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
- After landing, it is necessary to organize and add bottom heating. And if there are basically no problems with the first, then it is quite difficult to organize proper heating at home.
- Gardeners recommend placing containers in boxes with semi-rotted compost, manure or ordinary autumn leaves. The decomposition process releases enough heat to keep the cuttings warm.
- The cuttings are placed in a lighted place, they can be rooted on the street in specially prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
- After planting, a greenhouse is built.
The rooting period of pine is long, so do not touch the seedlings in the first year after planting. Good root system will grow only by the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.
From pine diseases to decorative plantings the most common is blister rust or seryanka. This can be seen from yellow bloom at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to regularly treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.
The most common pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. They mainly settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all trees and plants that grow nearby.
applied in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process it and make carved home decorations, furniture and even build houses from it. Also, this tree is often used by landscape designers to decorate the area near the house or to make an alpine slide.
Many coniferous trees have medicinal properties. Folk recipes often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.
More information can be found in the video.
Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reduce crop losses. Some might say it's troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.
Succulents are very versatile. Despite the fact that “babies” have always been considered more fashionable, it is worth taking a closer look at the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate a modern interior. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that surprisingly transform modern interiors.
Mint was used by the Egyptians as far back as 1.5 thousand years BC. She's different strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will look at the most interesting varieties mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.
People began to grow crocuses 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the most early primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest varieties of crocuses that bloom in late March and early April.
Shchi from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, fragrant and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. early cabbage it cooks quickly, so it is put into the pan at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.
Looking at the variety of varieties of tomatoes, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners he is annoying sometimes! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much time and energy to care for the beds.
Once very popular under the name of room nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleuses today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.
Salmon backbone baked in Provence herbs - "supplier" delicious pieces fish pulp for light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The mushrooms are lightly fried olive oil and then watered apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than ordinary pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the flavor of each other. Garlic sharpness of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of salmon and pieces of mushrooms.
Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, secreted by plants, not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adult conifers are considered to be very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.
Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral attribute of the meeting of spring in the Country rising sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.
It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and traded lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known and even then the methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.
Make your family happy and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read in our step by step recipe!
There are not so many decorative and deciduous favorites among tuberous crops. And the caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, the rumors about the unusual capriciousness of the Caladium never justify. Attention and care allow you to avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.
We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.
Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will talk about three that are distinguished by excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Handsome" and "Valentina". All eggplants have pulp medium density. In "Almaz" it is greenish, and in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent yield, but in different time. Everyone's skin color and shape is different.